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Best achievable double sided boards?

Best achievable double sided boards?

2004-11-06 by Bob Weiss

Using the "Staples Paper/Ironing" method, what are the best 
achievable results you have gotten for a double sided board? I mean 
what are the thinest lines (in mm or mils) and space between them. 
The reason I am asking is because I just designed a double sided 
board that is pretty complicated (I use Eagle Pro) and I don't want 
to waste my time if it can't be done at home. I have done single 
sided boards before with this method and have gotten great results. 
The best I can get this particular board to route 100% is if I use 
alot of via's. If I go with a 4 layer and send it out ($$$) then its 
not that hard to route. Just trying to get some your prior 
experiences and see if I should proceed. Thanks for taking the time 
to reply.

Also when dealing with vias how do you solder them? I was thinking 
of using thin (30 guage), bare wire and solder it on both sides of 
the board. Does anyone have any better ideas?

Re: Best achievable double sided boards?

2004-11-06 by Phil

Its not hard at all to get good registration with double sided boards.
 I dont even bother making single sided anymore.  You need to take
care when ironing to ensure that the paper doesn't move.  When I was
using an iron, I would tack in the middle and work outward.

In terms of line width, I can do 10 mil pretty easily though I prefer
12 mil.  You can get 12 mil through 100 mil pitch parts and it stands
up to the vagaries of the etch tank a little better.  

Yes, I use wire in the vias and solder both sides.  I'll use what ever
wire I have that's scrap.  Since I got a couple hundred feet of scrap
cat5, I've been using that.  28 ga, I believe.  I thread the wire
through all the vias and solder them in one pass on each side of the
board.  I then use the wire loops for continuity testing and clip them
off as I determine the via is good.  Its a good, cheap and fast technique.

I know that others use eyelets but my one experiment with them was a
mess and I wound up chucking the board.  You need to make your vias
pretty big (much larger than the eagle default).  

The biggest issue I have is via placement.  Since I use a wire to
complete the via, one can't be put under parts that are flush with the
PCB.  Also, you want to be careful not to place a via too close to a
pad as the heat of soldering the pad can cause the via wire to drop
out.  I suppose if you use eyelets, some of this can be overcome.  I
generally dont put vias under things as it allows me access to go back
and touch it up if I muffed the soldering.

Have fun!

Phil

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Weiss" <BWeiss@p...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 
> Using the "Staples Paper/Ironing" method, what are the best 
> achievable results you have gotten for a double sided board? I mean 
> what are the thinest lines (in mm or mils) and space between them. 
> The reason I am asking is because I just designed a double sided 
> board that is pretty complicated (I use Eagle Pro) and I don't want 
> to waste my time if it can't be done at home. I have done single 
> sided boards before with this method and have gotten great results. 
> The best I can get this particular board to route 100% is if I use 
> alot of via's. If I go with a 4 layer and send it out ($$$) then its 
> not that hard to route. Just trying to get some your prior 
> experiences and see if I should proceed. Thanks for taking the time 
> to reply.
> 
> Also when dealing with vias how do you solder them? I was thinking 
> of using thin (30 guage), bare wire and solder it on both sides of 
> the board. Does anyone have any better ideas?

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Best achievable double sided boards?

2004-11-06 by Leon Heller

>From: "Bob Weiss" <BWeiss@...>
>Reply-To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Best achievable double sided boards?
>Date: Sat, 06 Nov 2004 01:35:42 -0000
>
>
>
>Using the "Staples Paper/Ironing" method, what are the best
>achievable results you have gotten for a double sided board? I mean
>what are the thinest lines (in mm or mils) and space between them.
>The reason I am asking is because I just designed a double sided
>board that is pretty complicated (I use Eagle Pro) and I don't want
>to waste my time if it can't be done at home. I have done single
>sided boards before with this method and have gotten great results.
>The best I can get this particular board to route 100% is if I use
>alot of via's. If I go with a 4 layer and send it out ($$$) then its
>not that hard to route. Just trying to get some your prior
>experiences and see if I should proceed. Thanks for taking the time
>to reply.
>
>Also when dealing with vias how do you solder them? I was thinking
>of using thin (30 guage), bare wire and solder it on both sides of
>the board. Does anyone have any better ideas?

That's the usual method.

Leon
--

Leon Heller, G1HSM
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller

Re: Best achievable double sided boards?

2004-11-06 by Bob Weiss

I appreciate your response. I did notice that the default size of 
vias in Eagle is kind of small and leaves no room for error. I 
bumped them up to 15mil pads. Most of my lines are 10 mil and space 
between is 8 mil. The single sided boards that I've done came out 
99% good, except a minor line being broken but fixable. When you do 
a dbl sided board do you use defaults in the routing parameters or 
do you change them and favor 1 side to give less traces on the top? 
What is the smallest drill bit you use? Do you "tin" the board when 
finished etching?

Thanks!



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
> 
> Its not hard at all to get good registration with double sided 
boards.
>  I dont even bother making single sided anymore.  You need to take
> care when ironing to ensure that the paper doesn't move.  When I 
was
> using an iron, I would tack in the middle and work outward.
> 
> In terms of line width, I can do 10 mil pretty easily though I 
prefer
> 12 mil.  You can get 12 mil through 100 mil pitch parts and it 
stands
> up to the vagaries of the etch tank a little better.  
> 
> Yes, I use wire in the vias and solder both sides.  I'll use what 
ever
> wire I have that's scrap.  Since I got a couple hundred feet of 
scrap
> cat5, I've been using that.  28 ga, I believe.  I thread the wire
> through all the vias and solder them in one pass on each side of 
the
> board.  I then use the wire loops for continuity testing and clip 
them
> off as I determine the via is good.  Its a good, cheap and fast 
technique.
> 
> I know that others use eyelets but my one experiment with them was 
a
> mess and I wound up chucking the board.  You need to make your vias
> pretty big (much larger than the eagle default).  
> 
> The biggest issue I have is via placement.  Since I use a wire to
> complete the via, one can't be put under parts that are flush with 
the
> PCB.  Also, you want to be careful not to place a via too close to 
a
> pad as the heat of soldering the pad can cause the via wire to drop
> out.  I suppose if you use eyelets, some of this can be overcome.  
I
> generally dont put vias under things as it allows me access to go 
back
> and touch it up if I muffed the soldering.
> 
> Have fun!
> 
> Phil
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Weiss" <BWeiss@p...> 
wrote:
> > 
> > Using the "Staples Paper/Ironing" method, what are the best 
> > achievable results you have gotten for a double sided board? I 
mean 
> > what are the thinest lines (in mm or mils) and space between 
them. 
> > The reason I am asking is because I just designed a double sided 
> > board that is pretty complicated (I use Eagle Pro) and I don't 
want 
> > to waste my time if it can't be done at home. I have done single 
> > sided boards before with this method and have gotten great 
results. 
> > The best I can get this particular board to route 100% is if I 
use 
> > alot of via's. If I go with a 4 layer and send it out ($$$) then 
its 
> > not that hard to route. Just trying to get some your prior 
> > experiences and see if I should proceed. Thanks for taking the 
time 
> > to reply.
> > 
> > Also when dealing with vias how do you solder them? I was 
thinking 
> > of using thin (30 guage), bare wire and solder it on both sides 
of 
> > the board. Does anyone have any better ideas?

Re: Best achievable double sided boards?

2004-11-06 by Phil

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Weiss" <BWeiss@p...> wrote:
> 
> I appreciate your response. I did notice that the default size of 
> vias in Eagle is kind of small and leaves no room for error. I 
> bumped them up to 15mil pads. Most of my lines are 10 mil and space 
> between is 8 mil. The single sided boards that I've done came out 
> 99% good, except a minor line being broken but fixable. When you do 
> a dbl sided board do you use defaults in the routing parameters or 
> do you change them and favor 1 side to give less traces on the top? 
> What is the smallest drill bit you use? Do you "tin" the board when 
> finished etching?
> 
> Thanks!
> 

Using the Eagle autorouter guarantees a more complex board.  I route
by hand and favor the bottom for TH and the top for SMD.  I'll put
SMDs on the bottom of mostly TH boards.  Basically, I try to route a
single sided board and then use the other side for a ground plane or
the last few traces that dont fit.  I do hate to drill so "Phil's
Design Rules" minimize hole count.  

Smallest drill I use is a function of what I have.  I got a good deal
on a lot of #69 bits so its my smallest (0.032, iirc) but I would go
smaller for the vias if I had the bits.

I used to use tinit but dont bother any more.  It was just one more
step in the process for marginal benefit, IMO.  If you solder right
away and use liquid flux (particularly for SMD ICs) there will be no
problem.

Re: Best achievable double sided boards?

2004-11-07 by mikezcnc

While I had no problems achiving fine traces (15mils) with small 
boards 1 sq in using ironing, it was impossible for me to make a 
100x160mm PCBs and the best I had was 70 or 90% exactness. I went 
thru every possible trick mentioned on this forum to balance the 
temperature, pressure and time and notning gave me results as good as 
using a different heat transfer method (at that time the fuser method 
was not well known). Mike

PS by different heat transfer method I mean using a laminator and 
Staples paper (suggested first by Tom Gootee), And yes I did try all 
kinds of other injet papers, I still have a pile of them and none of 
them worked well on LARGE PCCBs. If TT works well on a large PCB 
therefore it will work well on any smaller PCB as well.