Homebrew PCBs

I am interested in doing some photo etching of 0.01" brass sheets 
that are 4x10", and I would like to try the TT method of transfering 
my image to brass.  Note, these will be etched on both sides, and 
this would not be for pcb purposes (but for art's sake).

There has been lots of discussion of laminators being used with 
better results than an iron.  My question is this:

Is there a brand or model of laminator that can be had that generates 
sufficient heat to do a transfer?  Or is there a model/brand that is 
easier to modify the thermastat for higher temps?  I can get a 4" 
laminator on ebay for ~$1 plus $10 shipping (GBC HeatSeal H100 Pro).  
The thickness of the brass translates as - 0.10" = 0.25mm (thinner 
than pc boards).

I would have gone ahead and used the iron method, but I'm afraid that 
the thin-ness of my material and the fact that I'll need to iron both 
sides scares me off.  I don't want to iron one side successfully, 
just to ruin it when I heat the other side.

Any thoughts?

GregC

On Tue, 08 Jun 2004 16:57:11 -0000, Greg Codori <greg_codori@...> 
wrote:

> I am interested in doing some photo etching of 0.01" brass sheets
> that are 4x10", and I would like to try the TT method of transfering
> my image to brass.  Note, these will be etched on both sides, and
> this would not be for pcb purposes (but for art's sake).
>
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> GregC
>

You could use a printer or copier fuser unit.
I use one with great success and we have some other positive reports too.

You need to find a old/dead printer/copier, or buy a replacement fuser 
unit.
Then you build a simple temperature control circuit (often this is found
in the printer or copier).
you also need a motor for it unless you want to hand-drive it.
i use a motor which was intended for rotating a chicken grill.
It has huge gearing ratio and a lot of torque, and it is slow.
I need only 1 pass with this motor.


ST

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Greg Codori" <greg_codori@h...>
wrote:
...
> Is there a brand or model of laminator that can be had that generates 
> sufficient heat to do a transfer?  Or is there a model/brand that is 
> easier to modify the thermastat for higher temps?  I can get a 4" 
> laminator on ebay for ~$1 plus $10 shipping (GBC HeatSeal H100 Pro).  
> The thickness of the brass translates as - 0.10" = 0.25mm (thinner 
> than pc boards).
...

Look in the Database section of the list, people have listed which
laminators do and don't work.

Steve

> > The thickness of the brass translates as - 0.10" = 0.25mm 
(thinner 
> > than pc boards).
> ...
> 
> Look in the Database section of the list, people have listed which
> laminators do and don't work.
> 
> Steve

I checked out the database, and saw that the larger version of the 
model I listed is present with good results.

My next questions is this:

If these are set to roll out 2mm or 3mm documents, will running 
something LESS than that not have the desired effect?  Photos are 
super thin, but the laminating packets make up the balance of the 
difference.  I could use glossy paper instead of time magazine pages 
to make up some of the difference, but then run the risk of losing 
some of the heat transferrence because of the thinkness of paper.

Any help would be appreciated.

GregC

> I checked out the database, and saw that the larger version of the
> model I listed is present with good results.
>
> My next questions is this:
>
> If these are set to roll out 2mm or 3mm documents, will running
> something LESS than that not have the desired effect?  Photos are
> super thin, but the laminating packets make up the balance of the
> difference.  I could use glossy paper instead of time magazine pages
> to make up some of the difference, but then run the risk of losing
> some of the heat transferrence because of the thinkness of paper.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> GregC
>

i wouldn't expect it to be a problem.
if you laminate something it also seals the edges, which are not that 
thick.

st

> >
> 
> i wouldn't expect it to be a problem.
> if you laminate something it also seals the edges, which are not 
that 
> thick.
> 
> st

Thank you very much for the information!  I'll keep the group updated 
if I'm able to pick up the laminator for $.99, and what the results 
are with different papers.

GregC

On Tue, 08 Jun 2004 18:07:58 -0000, Greg Codori <greg_codori@...> 
wrote:

>
>> >
>>
>> i wouldn't expect it to be a problem.
>> if you laminate something it also seals the edges, which are not
> that
>> thick.
>>
>> st
>
> Thank you very much for the information!  I'll keep the group updated
> if I'm able to pick up the laminator for $.99, and what the results
> are with different papers.
>
> GregC
>
>

I'm especially interested on how it works for the doublesided artwork.
I'm still struggling with doublesided PCBs, the aligning is not my 
favourite task.


ST

> >
> 
> I'm especially interested on how it works for the doublesided 
artwork.
> I'm still struggling with doublesided PCBs, the aligning is not my 
> favourite task.
> 
> 
> ST

One of the links in the database points to a method of printing out 
the two seperate images on two pages.  Then tape 3 sides of the pages 
to form a "pocket".  Then slip in the board into the pocket, and the 
tape acts as "stops" to aid in lining up the two images.

Difficult to explain in writing, but hopefully that made sense.  As 
long as the two images when printed on the page match up, it should 
work.  Perhaps hold the two pages up the the light to ensure they 
overlap each other exactly.

GregC

>
> One of the links in the database points to a method of printing out
> the two seperate images on two pages.  Then tape 3 sides of the pages
> to form a "pocket".  Then slip in the board into the pocket, and the
> tape acts as "stops" to aid in lining up the two images.
>
> Difficult to explain in writing, but hopefully that made sense.  As
> long as the two images when printed on the page match up, it should
> work.  Perhaps hold the two pages up the the light to ensure they
> overlap each other exactly.
>
> GregC


well, i tried it with gluing both sheets of paper to a strip of pcb at the 
edge.
then slide the board in against that pcb and feed. i used that metod with 
UV optical
exposure. didn't work that well with TT.
I will try the 3-sides pocket next, thanks.


ST

> > the two seperate images on two pages.  Then tape 3 sides of the 
pages
> > to form a "pocket".  Then slip in the board into the pocket, and 
the
> > tape acts as "stops" to aid in lining up the two images.

> well, i tried it with gluing both sheets of paper to a strip of pcb 
at the 
> edge.
> then slide the board in against that pcb and feed. i used that 
metod with 
> UV optical
> exposure. didn't work that well with TT.
> I will try the 3-sides pocket next, thanks.

I don't find I need more than 1 side bound.  I make a .5-1" boarder 
on 1 side with a glue stick.  You only need to keep the paper from 
shifting from its registration marks long enough for the 
laminator/fuser to tack down the toner.

About the question of the brass, the method should work as expected.  
Look for a laminator with spring loaded rollers --they should do a 
better job than those with fixed roller positions on different 
material thicknesses.