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HEPA vacume and filters

HEPA vacume and filters

2004-06-04 by Dave Mucha

Hi all,

I am currently using an upright vac with HEPA filter for my
drill/rout table and was wondering what others use to keep the shop
air clean ?

I am thinking of buying a large 12" x 12" filter and putting it into
a box as the main filter as that would have a HUGE increase in
surface area, at about the same price as a replacemnt for my vac.

Any bright ideas ?

Dave

[Homebrew_PCBs] smd, some do's and dont's

2004-06-04 by Stefan Trethan

hi, some ideas and experiences that may come in hand if you are doing smd
work:


First, the good news:
I have a manual vacuum pic tool now for placing.
After wondering for hours where i will get the required solenoid valves
to make it work i had a really simple idea:
drill a hole in the pick handle, which bleeds the vacuum.
if yo want to hold a part close the hole with your finger.

The small residual flow through the thin nozzle did still hold parts,
so i put a piece of cloth in the way of the tip to slow it.
i also drilled a second hole which is smaller than the main bleed hole.
it is never closed and ensures the vacuum doesn't build up when holding
a part for a long time.

for a tip i used a 0,8mm inner dia. syringe needle (cut and grind flat).
For me it is more convenient to have a tip bent at about 60 degrees.

oh yes, for a handle i used a old ball point pen of course...


really cheap tool and GREAT help.


Second, other good news:

smd reflow works perfectly well with the hot air gun on low volume setting.
hold it relatively high away from the board and the parts are not blown
off.
works much better than oven reflow for me. (and i do not have to add
another big
item to my overcrouded workspace)


Third, the bad and important stuff:

I tried to thin solder paste with denatured alcohol to make it more tacky
and easier to use (it is old). Was much easier to dispense and stick parts
to it.
But when i tried to reflow the really worst thing hapened: the components
were catapulted
right off the board as soon as a certain temperature was reached.
i tried to dry it for a hour, and then tried to dry the alcohol out at
lower temp.
but it didn't help much. ended up with holding the parts down and
soldering with iron.
MAN this small things can jump, i was really surprised.

Well, don't try this at home ;-).

Have you any ideas which solvent can be used on solder paste?


thanks

ST

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] smd, some do's and dont's

2004-06-04 by mpdickens

> Have you any ideas which solvent can be used on
> solder paste?

Mix 7 parts glycerine to 3 parts isopropyl alcohol
Sometimes, depending on the paste the alcohol content
must be even lower than 3 parts. Thin the paste ONLY
as thin as you need it and no more. Also, this mixture
works wonders as a flux to keep solder from bridging
between pins on smd and through hole componets.
Although, the correct tip is everything when doing
smd. You can also put some of this on solder braid and
solder will literally jump of whatever that it's stuck
to.



Regards

Marvin Dickens

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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] smd, some do's and dont's

2004-06-04 by Stefan Trethan

> Mix 7 parts glycerine to 3 parts isopropyl alcohol
> Sometimes, depending on the paste the alcohol content
> must be even lower than 3 parts. Thin the paste ONLY
> as thin as you need it and no more. Also, this mixture
> works wonders as a flux to keep solder from bridging
> between pins on smd and through hole componets.
> Although, the correct tip is everything when doing
> smd. You can also put some of this on solder braid and
> solder will literally jump of whatever that it's stuck
> to.
>
>
>
> Regards
>
> Marvin Dickens
>

thanks, will try it.
But i have no IPA, will see where to get it.

i didn't know this is a flux, the only flux i used is colophony.
Does the glycerine provide the flux action, or the ipa, or the combination?

how do you feel about replacing ipa with denatured alcohol (ethanol)?


the good thing is that discarding of the thinned paste which was unuseable
cleared the syringe nozzle and the fresh paste from the back is in better
condition.

thanks

ST

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] smd, some do's and dont's

2004-06-04 by mpdickens

> how do you feel about replacing ipa with denatured
> alcohol (ethanol)?

It should work. The alcohol is used to thin the
glycerine which is pretty thick by itself. Also, I
have, on occassion, had paste that thinned ok with
just the glycerine and did not need alcohol. If you
are using hot air to melt the solder paste, you may
want to go with straight glycerine. The blowing hot
air will seperate the alcohol from the glycerine
(Alcohol is lighter) and it will bubble (Which is what
you experienced, at least I think...)

I do have one thought regarding ethanol. Typically,
ethanol comes in many qualitative grades as opposed to
isopropyl with is available in a medical grade at drug
stores in the usa. Just be sure the ethanol is of a
decent grade and not watered down below 70% with h20.

Best

Marvin Dickens

=====
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Re: smd, some do's and dont's

2004-06-04 by Alan J. Franzman

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, mpdickens <md30022@y...> wrote:
[Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:]
> > how do you feel about replacing ipa with denatured
> > alcohol (ethanol)?
>
<snip>
> I do have one thought regarding ethanol. Typically,
> ethanol comes in many qualitative grades as opposed to
> isopropyl with is available in a medical grade at drug
> stores in the usa. Just be sure the ethanol is of a
> decent grade and not watered down below 70% with h20.

"Denatured Alcohol" (a.k.a. "Industrial Alcohol") is not pure or
merely watered-down ethanol - it is mixed with another solvent(s),
which used to usually be mostly benzene. But since benzene is
really nasty stuff, most that you get now has other (slightly) less
nasty stuff instead. I have a tin here which says, "Contains:
Ethanol, Methanol, Methyl Isobutyl Ketone, Isopropanol and Water"
and lots of warnings about damage to brain and nervous system from
inhalation or absorption through skin, cannot be made non-poisonous
etc., as well as extreme flammability.

A.J.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: smd, some do's and dont's

2004-06-05 by mpdickens

> and lots of warnings about damage to brain and
> nervous system from inhalation or absorption through
> skin, cannot be made non-poisonous
> etc., as well as extreme flammability.

What you are describing sounds like what is sold in a
hardware store in the paint section. Like muratic
acid, it is composed of / manufactured from industrial
waste products.

You can, however, purchase denatured alcohol (Wood
alcohol 70% by volume. It's diluted with h20 and
nothing else. No additives, no industrial wastes) at a
pharmacy. This grade of denatured alcohol is still
posionous, but then again, so is isopropyl alcohol.
For that matter, ethanol is also poisonious (Like all
liquour and wine...) .

Best

Marvin Dickens

=====
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Re: smd, some do's and dont's

2004-06-05 by ballendo

Hello,

Here in the US, it's sold at Longs as 99% isopropyl alcohol.

It's sold to clean the skin prior to an injection... So ask where
diabetic supplies are carried in the stores around you...

I always have a pint nearby the electronics bench. Keep it closed or
it picks up moisture from the air.

Hope this helps,

Ballendo

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, mpdickens <md30022@y...> wrote:
> > and lots of warnings about damage to brain and
> > nervous system from inhalation or absorption through
> > skin, cannot be made non-poisonous
> > etc., as well as extreme flammability.
>
> What you are describing sounds like what is sold in a
> hardware store in the paint section. Like muratic
> acid, it is composed of / manufactured from industrial
> waste products.
>
> You can, however, purchase denatured alcohol (Wood
> alcohol 70% by volume. It's diluted with h20 and
> nothing else. No additives, no industrial wastes) at a
> pharmacy. This grade of denatured alcohol is still
> posionous, but then again, so is isopropyl alcohol.
> For that matter, ethanol is also poisonious (Like all
> liquour and wine...) .
>
> Best
>
> Marvin Dickens
>
> =====
> Registered Linux User No. 80253
> If you use linux, get counted at:
> http://www.linuxcounter.org
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://messenger.yahoo.com/

Re: smd, some do's and dont's

2004-06-06 by Steve

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, mpdickens <md30022@y...> wrote:
> > and lots of warnings about damage to brain and
> > nervous system from inhalation or absorption through
> > skin, cannot be made non-poisonous
> > etc., as well as extreme flammability.
>
> What you are describing sounds like what is sold in a
> hardware store in the paint section. Like muratic
> acid, it is composed of / manufactured from industrial
> waste products.

Do you have a weblink to this information?

Looking here:
http://www.syndel.com/msds/denatured_ethanol_msds.html

I don't see anything to indicate it was made from industrial waste!

> You can, however, purchase denatured alcohol (Wood
> alcohol 70% by volume. It's diluted with h20 and
> nothing else. No additives, no industrial wastes) at a
> pharmacy. This grade of denatured alcohol is still
> posionous, but then again, so is isopropyl alcohol.
> For that matter, ethanol is also poisonious (Like all
> liquour and wine...) .

Ethanol is not poisonous except in the strictest sense. HOWEVER-
denatured is called that because it has methanol added, which -is-
toxic. That's why it's called denatured, they could not sell it
otherwise because it would be like selling bottles of rotgut whisky
from the hardware store. It's also called "White Lightnin'" in the
southern USA.

Steve

Header connectors.

2004-06-06 by Anthony Toft

I am upgrading my Tait Programmer for ICSP and am deciding on the
connector, I have pretty much chosen a 2x6 on .1 centers (standard
looking dual row) but I can't find them that short. How much hassle is
it to cut them off a longer strip (like getting 6 from a 36 ping
connector)?
--
Anthony Toft <toftat@...>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Header connectors.

2004-06-06 by Stefan Trethan

On Sun, 06 Jun 2004 09:21:06 -0400, Anthony Toft <toftat@...>
wrote:

> I am upgrading my Tait Programmer for ICSP and am deciding on the
> connector, I have pretty much chosen a 2x6 on .1 centers (standard
> looking dual row) but I can't find them that short. How much hassle is
> it to cut them off a longer strip (like getting 6 from a 36 ping
> connector)?

none, very easy.

st

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Header connectors.

2004-06-06 by Leon Heller

----- Original Message -----
From: "Anthony Toft" <toftat@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 2:21 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Header connectors.


> I am upgrading my Tait Programmer for ICSP and am deciding on the
> connector, I have pretty much chosen a 2x6 on .1 centers (standard
> looking dual row) but I can't find them that short. How much hassle is
> it to cut them off a longer strip (like getting 6 from a 36 ping
> connector)?

I use a Stanley knife. Put the strip on a hard surface and press down hard
with the knife. You should get a clean break.

Leon

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Header connectors.

2004-06-06 by Stefan Trethan

On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 16:08:23 +0100, Leon Heller <leon_heller@...>
wrote:

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Anthony Toft" <toftat@...>
> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 2:21 PM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Header connectors.
>
>
>> I am upgrading my Tait Programmer for ICSP and am deciding on the
>> connector, I have pretty much chosen a 2x6 on .1 centers (standard
>> looking dual row) but I can't find them that short. How much hassle is
>> it to cut them off a longer strip (like getting 6 from a 36 ping
>> connector)?
>
> I use a Stanley knife. Put the strip on a hard surface and press down
> hard
> with the knife. You should get a clean break.
>
> Leon

i use any type of pliers.
the notches are designed to make the pins break where you want.

st

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Header connectors.

2004-06-06 by John Johnson

The pins are easy to break into correct sizes. I always order 80 pin
strips, as they are cheaper.

The problem will be finding a female IDC ribbon cable connector with
6 pins, if you need one. If you know of a source, let me know too.
All I can find are 10 pins or greater. Thanks!

Regards,
JJ

On Sunday, June 6, 2004, at 09:21 AM, Anthony Toft wrote:

> I am upgrading my Tait Programmer for ICSP and am deciding on the
> connector, I have pretty much chosen a 2x6 on .1 centers (standard
> looking dual row) but I can't find them that short. How much hassle is
> it to cut them off a longer strip (like getting 6 from a 36 ping
> connector)?
> --
> Anthony Toft <toftat@...>
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Header connectors.

2004-06-06 by Stefan Trethan

On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 11:14:53 -0400, John Johnson <johnatl@...> wrote:

> The pins are easy to break into correct sizes. I always order 80 pin
> strips, as they are cheaper.
>
> The problem will be finding a female IDC ribbon cable connector with
> 6 pins, if you need one. If you know of a source, let me know too.
> All I can find are 10 pins or greater. Thanks!
>
> Regards,
> JJ


i think there are none below 2x5 for ribbon.
but there is the other type, with individual crimp contacts which slide
in a plastic housing.

ST

Re: Header connectors.

2004-06-06 by Dave Mucha

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Anthony Toft <toftat@c...>
wrote:
> I am upgrading my Tait Programmer for ICSP and am deciding on the
> connector, I have pretty much chosen a 2x6 on .1 centers (standard
> looking dual row) but I can't find them that short. How much hassle
is
> it to cut them off a longer strip (like getting 6 from a 36 ping
> connector)?
> --
> Anthony Toft <toftat@c...>

When you said SHORT, I thought you meant lenght of the pins as height
over the board.

The pins will slide easily in the black plastic holder.

Also the black plastic holders are usually knotched for snapping
apart.

I find that it is easy enough to remove a pin at a time when pulling
an old board apart. but really hard to pull apart a 20 pin row at
one time without a torch.

Dave

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Header connectors.

2004-06-06 by Anthony Toft

Thanks for the replies guys! if I can't find the ribbon connector, I
will just plug up the unused pins and just use some 6 conductor ribbon,
it only uses 5 conductors anyway.
--
Anthony Toft <toftat@...>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Header connectors.

2004-06-06 by John Johnson

The Atmel STK-500 has 2x3 pin ribbon headers. Maybe they had
them custom made. I think I'll drop them a line and see.

Thanks!

Regards,
JJ

On Sunday, June 6, 2004, at 11:26 AM, Stefan Trethan wrote:

> On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 11:14:53 -0400, John Johnson <johnatl@...>
> wrote:
>
>> The pins are easy to break into correct sizes. I always order 80 pin
>> strips, as they are cheaper.
>>
>> The problem will be finding a female IDC ribbon cable connector with
>> 6 pins, if you need one. If you know of a source, let me know too.
>> All I can find are 10 pins or greater. Thanks!
>>
>> Regards,
>> JJ
>
>
> i think there are none below 2x5 for ribbon.
> but there is the other type, with individual crimp contacts which slide
> in a plastic housing.
>
> ST
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

Re: Header connectors.

2004-06-06 by ballendo

Hello,

WHY use a dual row? Use a single row snap-able header, and mate it
with an AMP MTA .100 IDC connector... This connector type is also
sold by molex, but I use amp because that's the "gun" I originally
bought for insertion.

BUT before I had the gun, I used the thin bladed manual tool with
decent success. If you try the "screwdriver technique, be sure to use
a pair of pliers across the width--means in the .500 direction or
you'll have likely intermittant contact, as the screwdriver blade
tends to spread the IDC "cutters" in the connector.

These connectors work really well with ribbon cable... I use these
with ribbon cable for my CNC machine limit loops.

Hope this helps, It WILL save money and board space...

Ballendo

P.S. The MTA connectors are color coded for different wire gauge
ranges. Be sure to get the ones that fit the wire size of your ribbon
cable!


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Anthony Toft <toftat@c...>
wrote:
> Thanks for the replies guys! if I can't find the ribbon connector, I
> will just plug up the unused pins and just use some 6 conductor
ribbon,
> it only uses 5 conductors anyway.
> --
> Anthony Toft <toftat@c...>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Header connectors.

2004-06-06 by JanRwl@AOL.COM

In a message dated 6/6/2004 8:22:25 AM Central Standard Time,
toftat@... writes:
How much hassle is it to cut them off a longer strip (like getting 6 from a
36 pin connector)?

SOME makes are "notched" between pins so that they BREAK neatly between pins.
If you are a SKILLED and CAREFUL tinkerer, you might use a "razor-file" or
whatever to nick the phenolic between, yourself. Else, they will PROBABLY
break "AT" a pin, so you will have to figure on LOOSING one pin per break. Simply
sand the raggedy ends square, again. Takes years of "doin' it!" Such CAN
be a frustration, first few times, but once you are old and ugly like me, from
having DONE such thousands of times, you will survive!

Lotsa luck! Jan Rowland


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Header connectors.

2004-06-07 by Alexandre Souza

> i think there are none below 2x5 for ribbon.
> but there is the other type, with individual crimp contacts which slide
> in a plastic housing.

There is, mine AVR programmer (from atmel) uses this connector...

I'd changed it to the usual 2x5 connector


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Re: Header connectors. ribbon connector

2004-06-07 by Dave Mucha

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Anthony Toft <toftat@c...>
wrote:
> Thanks for the replies guys! if I can't find the ribbon connector, I
> will just plug up the unused pins and just use some 6 conductor
ribbon,
> it only uses 5 conductors anyway.
> --
> Anthony Toft <toftat@c...>


A fast solution is to use an old 9 pin serial connector from an Old
PC. When you pull the motherboard out, there is always a serial
connector with ribbon cable that is lose in the case.

Dave

Re: Header connectors. ribbon connector

2004-06-07 by ballendo

Hello,

Maybe I'm missing something here...

If we're using ICSP, which uses only 5 pins; why do we want to give
up board space (and pay more for not only the connector(s), but also
extra holes when we eventually mfr. the board) to use a 2x5
connector? I can take that same loose serial DE9 to 2x5 assy. and
have it become a DE9 to 5PMTA in a minute or two... (a 5pin header
and a 5p MTA.1 IDC connector are much lower cost.)

I guess if board space and cost is not a problem, and volume of the
product IS high(but isn't that an oxymoron?<G>); then being able to
use old pc "pullouts" for programming DOES make some sense...

Ballendo

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Mucha" <dave_mucha@y...>
wrote:
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Anthony Toft <toftat@c...>
> wrote:
> > Thanks for the replies guys! if I can't find the ribbon
connector, I
> > will just plug up the unused pins and just use some 6 conductor
> ribbon,
> > it only uses 5 conductors anyway.
> > --
> > Anthony Toft <toftat@c...>
>
>
> A fast solution is to use an old 9 pin serial connector from an Old
> PC. When you pull the motherboard out, there is always a serial
> connector with ribbon cable that is lose in the case.
>
> Dave

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Header connectors. ribbon connector

2004-06-08 by Anthony Toft

> I guess if board space and cost is not a problem, and volume of the
> product IS high(but isn't that an oxymoron?<G>); then being able to
> use old pc "pullouts" for programming DOES make some sense...

It is for one off projects, I want to use 2x3 connectors, 5 for ICSP, 1
clipped out for key. If I can't find a 2x3 ribbon connector I will rig
one up from what ever size I can find.

I _will_ have to make an extra-circuit programming board with a
connector and the sockets so I can program chips in those situations
where I can't fit the header.

--
Anthony Toft <toftat@...>

Re: Header connectors. ribbon connector

2004-06-08 by Dave Mucha

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Anthony Toft <toftat@c...>
wrote:
> > I guess if board space and cost is not a problem, and volume of
the
> > product IS high(but isn't that an oxymoron?<G>); then being able
to
> > use old pc "pullouts" for programming DOES make some sense...
>
> It is for one off projects, I want to use 2x3 connectors, 5 for
ICSP, 1
> clipped out for key. If I can't find a 2x3 ribbon connector I will
rig
> one up from what ever size I can find.
>
> I _will_ have to make an extra-circuit programming board with a
> connector and the sockets so I can program chips in those situations
> where I can't fit the header.
>
> --
> Anthony Toft <toftat@c...>


A question here is ribbon cable required ?

That implies a insulation displacement type of device.

An alternative is to use a common board female connector and solder
that onto your wires. It would take a lot of shrink wrap and may not
look so pretty, but it would probably be stuff you have around ?

Also, if you use a 2x5, you get room on the ends to add some sort of
wire boot or pull tabs so you pull on the housing, not the wire.

Funny how the connectors cost more than the chips !

Dave

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Header connectors. ribbon connector

2004-06-08 by Stefan Trethan

> An alternative is to use a common board female connector and solder
> that onto your wires. It would take a lot of shrink wrap and may not
> look so pretty, but it would probably be stuff you have around ?

Yes, but there are also connectors which have individual contacts.
it is only a black plastic housing in which you slide the contacts.
you must solder or crimp the contacts to the individual wires before that.
this type of connector is used e.g. in PCs for the switches, leds, speaker
etc.
there are single row and two-row types.

I have tried to locate this type of connector here but failed.
I ended up recycling old ones as much as i can.


> Funny how the connectors cost more than the chips !

I HATE it...
the e-mech. components take up half of the whole project cost easily.

ST

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] smd solder paste thinning

2004-06-10 by Stefan Trethan

>
> Mix 7 parts glycerine to 3 parts isopropyl alcohol
> Sometimes, depending on the paste the alcohol content
> must be even lower than 3 parts. Thin the paste ONLY
> as thin as you need it and no more. Also, this mixture
> works wonders as a flux to keep solder from bridging
> between pins on smd and through hole componets.
> Although, the correct tip is everything when doing
> smd. You can also put some of this on solder braid and
> solder will literally jump of whatever that it's stuck
> to.
>
>
>
> Regards
>
> Marvin Dickens

well, was shopping.

Bought some glycerine and IPA.
Found it at the chem. shop and was again positive surprised that it cost a
third
of what it would cost mail order (and they refill the bottles so it it
even cheaper).
I also got a liter of Acetone when i was there, i really hope the PE
bottle is up to it...

But back on topic:

the glycerine is really thin, like a thin oil.
I do not think it will be required to thin it further with IPA.
What do you think, should i try it with glycerine only or does the IPA
serve another
purpose too?

thanks

ST

P.S.: I found that bicycle valves make GREAT nozzles for bottles with
solvents.
the caps are airtight on this valves. I use the old type which used a
hose, snip off the
valve part so it is open both ways. (basically you end up with a threaded
pipe).
then i drill a hole in the plastic lid of the bottle and glue the valve in.
the plastic bicycle cap is used to close this new outlet.
Really much more practical than the 2-cm opening, if you press a rag
against it to dampen
it you will contaminate the whole bottle of solvent over time (and use
much more
than you really need. with the new tiny nozzle
you can dispense a few drops directly where you need it with no
contamination.
Use a glue that is compatible to the chemical (i used hot glue).
Of course the valve is metal so don't try it with acids, or H2O2 etc...

There is a special lid with a nozzle & cap for this type of bottles, but i
don't
have it and i'm not sure how tight the snap on cap really is.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] smd solder paste thinning

2004-06-10 by mpdickens

> the glycerine is really thin, like a thin oil.
> I do not think it will be required to thin it
> further with IPA.
> What do you think, should i try it with glycerine
> only or does the IPA
> serve another
> purpose too?

Try it without the ipa. The solder paste should mix
with the glycerine. If it does not, then add a little
ipa.


Best

Marvin


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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] smd solder paste thinning

2004-06-10 by Stefan Trethan

> Try it without the ipa. The solder paste should mix
> with the glycerine. If it does not, then add a little
> ipa.
>
>
> Best
>
> Marvin
>

just tried it, seems to work well.
It mixes ok and there are no violent explosions.

I must try glycerine as a flux if you say it is so good...

thanks

ST

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] smd solder paste thinning

2004-06-10 by mpdickens

> I must try glycerine as a flux if you say it is so
> good...

Add a very little ipa to the gycerine in order to use
it as a flux. Start with something like 20 parts
glycerine to 1 part ipa. If it gums up and turns
black, add more ipa. Keep on adding ipa until it's
right (No black residue. Some brown residue is OK and
expected. The brown residue can be easily cleaned off
with flux remover (More easily than traditional flux).

Regards

Marvin

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