Homebrew_PCBs

This group sure looks like a good idea.

I have several interests. One is trying the CuCl etching method. See:

http://www.dnai.com/~rexa/Projects/CuCl_ech.html

for details. It looks cheap, and minimizes environmental impact. I am
interested in hearing from anyone with related experience.

Another is trying to make prototypes with laser-printed PCB patterns
more consistent. At present I use Dyna Art paper which I like.

I haven't tried any other method, though, and am interested in
inexpensive alternatives which work. For example, I read somewhere on
the net that clay-coated 80 pound (I think) paper works well. I have
been unable to find it at Staples here in Canada though apparently it
is available in the US.

I also have some old silk screens with old PCB patterns. (Many are
from early Elektor projects, though they are not labelled, so I am not
sure what each one is. I plan to clean these screens and reclaim them,
unless someone can help me identify the Elektor projects. In
exchange I would try printing some of the patterns on PCB's.

I think Javex does the trick to remove the old silkscreen stencil. I
am interested in learning about how to apply new photoemulsion to the
silk screen, and reproduce PCB art on the silk screen.

I use Ivex WinBoard. Does anyone know if there is a way to laser print
the PCB pattern to mylar or the like (clear plastic), and use this to
print to the photoemulsion.? Is there a computer method to turn a PCB
pattern to a negative one, for laser printing? Is there a photemulsion
which would respond to a laser printed positive on clear plastic, so
a negative would not be required?

That's it for now. I look forward to seeing the group grow and pool
knowledge and experience.

Grant

Hi Grant

try the glossy inkjet photo papers they are clay-coated to give them the gloss
some of the heavier weights (80-120#) have a thin plastic film just under the
clay layer that makes them hard to soak off (HP Premium I think) but most will
soak thru and release the clay prety well
I've had fairly good results from Epson and the lighter weight HP papers

Brian

> I haven't tried any other method, though, and am interested in
> inexpensive alternatives which work. For example, I read somewhere on
> the net that clay-coated 80 pound (I think) paper works well. I have
> been unable to find it at Staples here in Canada though apparently it
> is available in the US.
>
> Grant

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@y..., "grantfair2001" <grant.fair@s...> wrote:

> This group sure looks like a good idea.

A very good idea.

> I also have some old silk screens with old PCB patterns. (Many are
> from early Elektor projects, though they are not labelled, so I am

not

> sure what each one is. I plan to clean these screens and reclaim

them,

> unless someone can help me identify the Elektor projects. In
> exchange I would try printing some of the patterns on PCB's.
>
> I think Javex does the trick to remove the old silkscreen stencil.

I

> am interested in learning about how to apply new photoemulsion to

the

> silk screen, and reproduce PCB art on the silk screen.

I haven't used the Javex product so I don't know about that one. Do
you know what photo emulsion was used to create the screens? If so,
they should be able to point you to a good reclaiming solution. I
have used mainly Ulano products and have had good luck with them.
Mind you, this was for printing T-shirts and decals but the process
is identical.

> > I use Ivex WinBoard. Does anyone know if there is a way to laser

print

> the PCB pattern to mylar or the like (clear plastic), and use this

to

> print to the photoemulsion.? Is there a computer method to turn a

PCB

> pattern to a negative one, for laser printing? Is there a

photemulsion

> which would respond to a laser printed positive on clear plastic,

so

> a negative would not be required?

I have been using the photo process for my boards for a while now. I
had very mixed results with the iron on products or even plain
paper. I have been able to get very small traces to take using the
photo process. I'll give a little info on how I make it work without
professionally shot film.

First, I am using MG Chemicals, double sided, pre-sensitized boards.
They aren't cheap but they seem to be rather consistent. These
boards are for use with a positive imaged film.

I create the layout and then create a bounding box the same size as
the blank board I am using. I can cut the excess board away after
etching if necessary. I print two copies of each side of the board
onto laser transparency. I then cut the corners and sides off of one
of the pieces of film for each side so that I can tape them on top of
each other, perfectly alligned. This will help create nice dark
traces so that there is no light bleed through during the exposing
process. I align them on a light table making sure that they are
completely flat and that there are no gaps between the
transparencies. I then take a Sharpie marker and fill in the light
areas on the toner side of each taped together transparency set.
When I screw up and get sharpie on the clear portion, a Q-tip and
some alcohol will remove it. This process will make for a very clean
film that will expose a board very well with no worries about
exposing areas where the toner is thin.

After both sides' film are complete, I expose the board on one side,
using the box printed on the film aligned with the outside edges of
the board. This will make both sides very easy to align, as long as
you get the film the right way up (learned that one the hard way). I
also got a scrap of 1/2" thick acrylic to use as a weight to keep the
film tight against the board during the exposure. This minimizes the
chances of light getting under the edges of small traces.

I have had very good success with this method.

Hope this helps,

Chris