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What would you pay for a cnc pcb mill/drill kit?

What would you pay for a cnc pcb mill/drill kit?

2004-03-12 by ballendo

Hello,

This was buried at the bottom of the pick and place post, and I
realised many may just skip over that topic...

What would you be willing to pay for a cnc machine kit that
assembles like a bookcase(meaning rather quickly--an hour or two--,
with limited tools), was 12" x12" (or 12"x18") in work area, and
could be used as a pcb drill, solder paste dispenser, enclosure
cutout and panel engraving, vinyl cutting, pcb milling. The kit would
be complete, with software and drives and motors included, and just
needing plugged together.

Is this something any of you would be interested in buying? At what
price? Speed will be at least 48IPM, and if the price merits, it
could be as high as 200IPM, with 90IPM a "reasonable" mid level.

What about a different machine? Smaller, and aimed more squarely at
drilling and milling pcbs? Say 6"x12" area, and slower too, at about
36IPM. Still a simply assembled(screwdriver, hex wrench) kit,
complete with s/w, motors, cables and drives. What would be a "fair"
price? (That you would be willing to pay!)

Thank you in advance,

Ballendo

P.S. A different question: If low price were the most important
thing, what is the SMALLEST travel size (6"x8"?) and SLOWEST traverse
rate, that you would find acceptable?

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] What would you pay for a cnc pcb mill/drill kit?

2004-03-13 by Jeremy Taylor

I built my own,
But
For comparison. There is a company in England
(http://www.milinst.com/main.htm)
, who does just what you are planning. They charge f 249.00
But with shipping and conversion to the US make it nearly $600

----- Original Message -----
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: "ballendo" <ballendo@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 5:34 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] What would you pay for a cnc pcb mill/drill kit?


> Hello,
>
> This was buried at the bottom of the pick and place post, and I
> realised many may just skip over that topic...
>
> What would you be willing to pay for a cnc machine kit that
> assembles like a bookcase(meaning rather quickly--an hour or two--,
> with limited tools), was 12" x12" (or 12"x18") in work area, and
> could be used as a pcb drill, solder paste dispenser, enclosure
> cutout and panel engraving, vinyl cutting, pcb milling. The kit would
> be complete, with software and drives and motors included, and just
> needing plugged together.
>
> Is this something any of you would be interested in buying? At what
> price? Speed will be at least 48IPM, and if the price merits, it
> could be as high as 200IPM, with 90IPM a "reasonable" mid level.
>
> What about a different machine? Smaller, and aimed more squarely at
> drilling and milling pcbs? Say 6"x12" area, and slower too, at about
> 36IPM. Still a simply assembled(screwdriver, hex wrench) kit,
> complete with s/w, motors, cables and drives. What would be a "fair"
> price? (That you would be willing to pay!)
>
> Thank you in advance,
>
> Ballendo
>
> P.S. A different question: If low price were the most important
> thing, what is the SMALLEST travel size (6"x8"?) and SLOWEST traverse
> rate, that you would find acceptable?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

Re: What would you pay for a cnc pcb mill/drill kit?

2004-03-13 by ballendo

Jeremy,

The milinst machine is NOWHERE NEAR what I'm planning. It's a toy.

Look up T-tech or LPKF to get an idea of something closer to what I'm
asking about...

Ballendo

Show quoted textHide quoted text
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Jeremy Taylor" <jt@j...> wrote:
>
> I built my own,
> But
> For comparison. There is a company in England
> (http://www.milinst.com/main.htm)
> , who does just what you are planning. They charge f 249.00
> But with shipping and conversion to the US make it nearly $600
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ballendo" <ballendo@y...>
> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 5:34 PM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] What would you pay for a cnc pcb
mill/drill kit?
>
>
> > Hello,
> >
> > This was buried at the bottom of the pick and place post, and I
> > realised many may just skip over that topic...
> >
> > What would you be willing to pay for a cnc machine kit that
> > assembles like a bookcase(meaning rather quickly--an hour or two--
,
> > with limited tools), was 12" x12" (or 12"x18") in work area, and
> > could be used as a pcb drill, solder paste dispenser, enclosure
> > cutout and panel engraving, vinyl cutting, pcb milling. The kit
would
> > be complete, with software and drives and motors included, and
just
> > needing plugged together.
> >
> > Is this something any of you would be interested in buying? At
what
> > price? Speed will be at least 48IPM, and if the price merits, it
> > could be as high as 200IPM, with 90IPM a "reasonable" mid level.
> >
> > What about a different machine? Smaller, and aimed more squarely
at
> > drilling and milling pcbs? Say 6"x12" area, and slower too, at
about
> > 36IPM. Still a simply assembled(screwdriver, hex wrench) kit,
> > complete with s/w, motors, cables and drives. What would be
a "fair"
> > price? (That you would be willing to pay!)
> >
> > Thank you in advance,
> >
> > Ballendo
> >
> > P.S. A different question: If low price were the most important
> > thing, what is the SMALLEST travel size (6"x8"?) and SLOWEST
traverse
> > rate, that you would find acceptable?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and
files:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >

Re: What would you pay for a cnc pcb mill/drill kit?

2004-03-13 by ballendo

Hello again,

Forgot to add. If you do go look at those machines (or the
superscribe at Microkinetics, or Larkens 1515), ignore the price.
What I have in mind will blow those prices out of the water...
probably off the Earth<G>

Ballendo

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "ballendo" <ballendo@y...>
wrote:
> Jeremy,
>
> The milinst machine is NOWHERE NEAR what I'm planning. It's a toy.
>
> Look up T-tech or LPKF to get an idea of something closer to what
I'm
> asking about...
>
> Ballendo
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Jeremy Taylor" <jt@j...>
wrote:
> >
> > I built my own,
> > But
> > For comparison. There is a company in England
> > (http://www.milinst.com/main.htm)
> > , who does just what you are planning. They charge f 249.00
> > But with shipping and conversion to the US make it nearly $600
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "ballendo" <ballendo@y...>
> > To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 5:34 PM
> > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] What would you pay for a cnc pcb
> mill/drill kit?
> >
> >
> > > Hello,
> > >
> > > This was buried at the bottom of the pick and place post, and I
> > > realised many may just skip over that topic...
> > >
> > > What would you be willing to pay for a cnc machine kit that
> > > assembles like a bookcase(meaning rather quickly--an hour or
two--
> ,
> > > with limited tools), was 12" x12" (or 12"x18") in work area, and
> > > could be used as a pcb drill, solder paste dispenser, enclosure
> > > cutout and panel engraving, vinyl cutting, pcb milling. The kit
> would
> > > be complete, with software and drives and motors included, and
> just
> > > needing plugged together.
> > >
> > > Is this something any of you would be interested in buying? At
> what
> > > price? Speed will be at least 48IPM, and if the price merits, it
> > > could be as high as 200IPM, with 90IPM a "reasonable" mid level.
> > >
> > > What about a different machine? Smaller, and aimed more
squarely
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> at
> > > drilling and milling pcbs? Say 6"x12" area, and slower too, at
> about
> > > 36IPM. Still a simply assembled(screwdriver, hex wrench) kit,
> > > complete with s/w, motors, cables and drives. What would be
> a "fair"
> > > price? (That you would be willing to pay!)
> > >
> > > Thank you in advance,
> > >
> > > Ballendo
> > >
> > > P.S. A different question: If low price were the most important
> > > thing, what is the SMALLEST travel size (6"x8"?) and SLOWEST
> traverse
> > > rate, that you would find acceptable?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and
> files:
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: What would you pay for a cnc pcb mill/drill kit?

2004-03-13 by Ron Amundson

I used to have an entry level LPKF, the machine cost US$11,500 and with all
the tooling and options it came in at US$19,200. It did a terrible job, and
was a royal pain to use. We ended up putting it in a closet as the worst
mistake ever and then sold it off a couple years later. I think we might
have done a lot better spending the money on an Excellon drill and a chem
system.

Here are the problems we had. Its been over 10 years, so they may have been
solved by now.
1. The machine was hideously slow, it took about 6-8 hours of milling time
to make a two layer 4"X6" pcb.
2. The main cutter, a triangle type of affair would wear out in about 2-3
hours of run time. At $30/bit that got really spendy.
3. The software was really difficult to use and it had a high learning
curve.
4. Tool changes were very tedious and alignment was a real challenge, as you
had to make cuts, then adjust, and repeat over and over.
5. The through hole process required such large vias that it was totally
impractical.
6. The syringe and vacuum for the silver paste was so combersome, we stopped
using it after a month.
7. The vacuum was so noisy, that we could not work in an adjacent lab due to
the noise.
8. The board alignment backer was again very marginal.
9. A tech had to be around to monitor is almost contiuously. As such the
pcb's we made with it were roughly double the cost of having them done in 3
days by a vendor.
10. The software had tool monitoring. However, you had to program in the run
time parameters by hand. If a tool ran too long, one could figure that the
resulting pcb would be full of shorts and opens.

It is possible we had a very early design of the LPKF. It had a lot of good
ideas coupled with poor implementation. It was almost as if someone designed
it in a garage, and then did zero testing before putting it on the market.

If the LPKF had been $3000-$5000 instead of close to $20,000, a lot of the
above issues might not be so bad. Once the novelty wore off, there was only
1 tech who felt it worthwhile to run, and then only on through hole boards
with large traces.

LPKF did have a more capable machine which sold for around $60,000. Looking
back, thats probably what we should have went for. It probably would have
worked much better.

Getting back to your question, if you solve the LPKF problems, $10K would
seem to make it a winner. If not, in order to get some decent sales, figure
on $3K-$5K with a bunch of advertising.

Thanks
Ron

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: What would you pay for a cnc pcb mill/drill kit?

2004-03-13 by Cristian

At 03:44 AM 13-03-04 +0000, you wrote:
>Hello again,
>
>Forgot to add. If you do go look at those machines (or the
>superscribe at Microkinetics, or Larkens 1515), ignore the price.
>What I have in mind will blow those prices out of the water...
>probably off the Earth<G>
>
>Ballendo

Ballendo, attach to it an Avecia's DropOnDemand Head and print directly on
copper, with suitable software.
Use it first to drill and after that to print etch resist (etch), solder
mask, silk screen.

Cristian

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Here's what you'd pay for a cnc pcb mill/drill kit...

2004-03-14 by ballendo

Ron,

I tend to agree about the overall value of PCB milling. It's still
worth it for some projects, but for many it just doesn't make sense
when the board houses have improved their prototype pricing and
delivery. BUT...

A CNC machine in your pcb lab is FAR more than just a pcb miller...

At the barest minimum it's a pcb DRILL. And a front panel engraver.
Panel cutouts for switches and displays, etc. is a no-brainer. To me
the biggest mistake the folks at LPKF and T-tech make is that their
machine is for drilling/tracemilling ONLY...

I have a 15x15 machine for $5K, which is the equal of the LPKF and T-
tech machines. (But can do much more than just pcb stuff, and it's
not a kit.)

The kit machines I was really asking about are lower priced...

My thousand buck kit CNC machine (12x12x4") is useful in many ways,
ONE of which is pcb trace milling(which IS useful for small simple
boards.) It can also do PCB drilling, and has a resolution
of .000125, so detail is no problem. You can work on things as thich
as 3-1/2 inches, and up to 18 inches wide. The machine itself has a
20 x 24" footprint.

I'm pretty sure I can offer a 500 buck pcb drill with capability for
board size of 6x8, maybe 8x12 inches. It can do some other CNC type
things, like panel cutout and engraving, but it's really aimed at
just being a low-cost CNC drill option... Spindle is set up for 1/8
or 3mm shanks.

The main thing is that these kits would be COMPLETE. And go together
in an hour or two. No searching for components, power supplies,
software, soldering or anything else. Just a screwdriver, hexwrench,
and your hands.

But it doesn't seem as popular as I'd thought, based on responses
here so far...

Now that I've let my target pricing out of the bag, perhaps there
might be interest?

Balllendo


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Ron Amundson"
<ron_amundson@h...> wrote:
> I used to have an entry level LPKF, the machine cost US$11,500 and
with all
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> the tooling and options it came in at US$19,200.<snip>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Here's what you'd pay for a cnc pcb mill/drill kit...

2004-03-14 by Alexandre Guimaraes

Hi, Ballendo

> I'm pretty sure I can offer a 500 buck pcb drill with capability for
> board size of 6x8, maybe 8x12 inches. It can do some other CNC type
> things, like panel cutout and engraving, but it's really aimed at
> just being a low-cost CNC drill option... Spindle is set up for 1/8
> or 3mm shanks.
>
> The main thing is that these kits would be COMPLETE. And go together
> in an hour or two. No searching for components, power supplies,
> software, soldering or anything else. Just a screwdriver, hexwrench,
> and your hands.
>
> But it doesn't seem as popular as I'd thought, based on responses
> here so far...
>
> Now that I've let my target pricing out of the bag, perhaps there
> might be interest?

With that price range I get much interested.... Could the spindle be
replaceable with other tools such as a older paste dispenser and a vacuum
pick-up tool ?? :-)

Can you send more details on the machine ?

Best regards,
Alexandre Guimaraes

Re: Here's what you'd pay for a cnc pcb mill/drill kit...

2004-03-14 by Phil

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "ballendo" <ballendo@y...>
wrote:
...
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> But it doesn't seem as popular as I'd thought, based on responses
> here so far...
>
> Now that I've let my target pricing out of the bag, perhaps there
> might be interest?
>
> Balllendo
>

interested.

several thoughts spring to mind:
- I hope you aren't solely relying on this group for market
research. lol
- make sure the machine is easily modifiable to add other gizmos. A
resist pen/applicator springs to mind - I'm sure there are litterally
hundreds of devices that makes sense.
- at a $500 price point and application flexibility, this could find
use in a variety of niche areas.
- figure out how to sneak under the corporate Purchase Order "radar"
and you can get it into all sorts of development shops. like break
it into a couple of easily assembled pieces. then individual
engineers can order each piece with out corporate approval.

Re: Here's what you'd pay for a cnc pcb mill/drill kit...

2004-03-14 by Steve

I know I'm interested.

Steve

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "ballendo" <ballendo@y...> wrote:
> Ron,
>
> I tend to agree about the overall value of PCB milling. It's still
> worth it for some projects, but for many it just doesn't make sense
> when the board houses have improved their prototype pricing and
> delivery. BUT...
>
> A CNC machine in your pcb lab is FAR more than just a pcb miller...
>
> At the barest minimum it's a pcb DRILL. And a front panel engraver.
> Panel cutouts for switches and displays, etc. is a no-brainer. To me
> the biggest mistake the folks at LPKF and T-tech make is that their
> machine is for drilling/tracemilling ONLY...
>
> I have a 15x15 machine for $5K, which is the equal of the LPKF and T-
> tech machines. (But can do much more than just pcb stuff, and it's
> not a kit.)
>
> The kit machines I was really asking about are lower priced...
>
> My thousand buck kit CNC machine (12x12x4") is useful in many ways,
> ONE of which is pcb trace milling(which IS useful for small simple
> boards.) It can also do PCB drilling, and has a resolution
> of .000125, so detail is no problem. You can work on things as thich
> as 3-1/2 inches, and up to 18 inches wide. The machine itself has a
> 20 x 24" footprint.
>
> I'm pretty sure I can offer a 500 buck pcb drill with capability for
> board size of 6x8, maybe 8x12 inches. It can do some other CNC type
> things, like panel cutout and engraving, but it's really aimed at
> just being a low-cost CNC drill option... Spindle is set up for 1/8
> or 3mm shanks.
>
> The main thing is that these kits would be COMPLETE. And go together
> in an hour or two. No searching for components, power supplies,
> software, soldering or anything else. Just a screwdriver, hexwrench,
> and your hands.
>
> But it doesn't seem as popular as I'd thought, based on responses
> here so far...
>
> Now that I've let my target pricing out of the bag, perhaps there
> might be interest?
>
> Balllendo
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Ron Amundson"
> <ron_amundson@h...> wrote:
> > I used to have an entry level LPKF, the machine cost US$11,500 and
> with all
> > the tooling and options it came in at US$19,200.<snip>

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Here's what you'd pay for a cnc pcb mill/drill kit...

2004-03-14 by Patrick Debrow

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "ballendo" <ballendo@y...>
wrote:
...
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> But it doesn't seem as popular as I'd thought, based on responses
> here so far...
>
> Now that I've let my target pricing out of the bag, perhaps there
> might be interest?
>
> Balllendo

Plan to purchase Roland MDX 15 in next month for use in very small PCB
proto shop. Reasons for purchase mostly $$$ ($2995), but scanning input
(and implied flexibility to accomodate other homebrew head devices) and
bundled SW also important. Will be used to route very small 15-20 mil
PCBs (1"x1" typ), 3-D scanning of populated PCBs, drilling PCBs, and
general small shop routing.

I am novice at this, but have done some machine shop work in past. Too
old to learn new CAD SW so need good interface with Autocad (and dread
dealing with yet another bundled SW). But am looking forward to baptism
into CNC and 3-D scanning.

I would like to build my own, but gotta get on with it so figure I will
try my hand at it when time available and with experience with Roland.

Does your planning address any of my current or future needs?

Patrick




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: Here's what you'd pay for a cnc pcb mill/drill kit...

2004-03-14 by ballendo

Patrick,

The CNC baptism is easier than the 3d scanning baptism<G>

With my machine software, Working with Autocad files is not a
problem, except that acad DXF is a transitive format.(Always
changing) So there's a learning curve until you find what works. But
once you do, then it can get pretty seamless for 2 or 2-1/2D stuff.
The machines will come with dxf, bmp and hpgl import, so getting
toolpaths from other sources can be simply done.

The mdx15 uses a piezio scanner, which works by vibrating a needle,
and then paying attention to the frequency damping which occurs when
it touches something. It's a good technique for small detailed items.
I've been trying to hunt down the patent path for this to see if I
could offer it. (Roland hasn't been very amenable to selling just the
scanner. At one point I was going to buy complete picza's just for
the piezio...) Until I get that worked out, we have to make do with
the renishaw type probe, for which the patent recently ran out. (It's
not a bad choice, but can be slower at sampling the surface.) The
machine software includes the ability to scan/probe.

My more expensive machine is much sturdier than the Mx15, with 16mm
steel shafts on all axes. It is also more open in the design, and
will lend itself better to user additions and larger work. This is
also true of the 1000 buck machine, but that machine has 3/4 shafts
x/y and 1/2" in Z.

For your small pcb's the roland won't be a bad choice. Some have
found the spindle motor limiting. And the software is definitely in
the "bundled" category<G> Send me an email offlist, and we can
discuss your needs in more detail. I may have something that makes
sense for you.

Ballendo

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Patrick Debrow" <pdebrow@c...>
wrote:
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "ballendo" <ballendo@y...>
> wrote:
> ...
> > But it doesn't seem as popular as I'd thought, based on responses
> > here so far...
> >
> > Now that I've let my target pricing out of the bag, perhaps there
> > might be interest?
> >
> > Balllendo
>
> Plan to purchase Roland MDX 15 in next month for use in very small
PCB
> proto shop. Reasons for purchase mostly $$$ ($2995), but scanning
input
> (and implied flexibility to accomodate other homebrew head devices)
and
> bundled SW also important. Will be used to route very small 15-20
mil
> PCBs (1"x1" typ), 3-D scanning of populated PCBs, drilling PCBs, and
> general small shop routing.
>
> I am novice at this, but have done some machine shop work in past.
Too
> old to learn new CAD SW so need good interface with Autocad (and
dread
> dealing with yet another bundled SW). But am looking forward to
baptism
> into CNC and 3-D scanning.
>
> I would like to build my own, but gotta get on with it so figure I
will
> try my hand at it when time available and with experience with
Roland.
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> Does your planning address any of my current or future needs?
>
> Patrick
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: Here's what you'd pay for a cnc pcb mill/drill kit...

2004-03-14 by ballendo

Hello,

Thank you all for the replies. I've gotten a few offlist as well.
Many are not saying which of the three or four machines I've
mentioned hold the most promise for them...

The 1000 buck machine is a very capable cnc machine, and not limited
at all to pcb work. You can put a router or other type of spindle on
it without problem. I designed it to be assembled in one of two ways:
high gantry with 3-3/4 clearance, and low gantry (2-1/4") aimed at
the pcb work. (I'm planning to sell these into several different
markets. Woodworkers, crafters, sign shops, schools, engravers,
plastic fab, etc.)

Forgot to mention that dragknife vinyl cutting will be an option with
both machines. Like the roland Sticka series. Tangential cutting may
come later, as I'm currently looking at how I can make my more
expensive machine pretend it's a pick and place for smd work. That
requires a c axis to orient the components. I'm looking for close up
pictures and explanations of commercial pick and place feeders.
Perhaps of the older types, that weren't as sophisticated. I need
info on both vibratory and tape reel types. Also on the older non-
machine vision techniques for part orientation after vac pickup...

Because once we get the pcb part licked then we need to get
the "populate 'em" solved.<G>

And I'm playing with the toaster oven process, to complete the pcb
equation... May be offering a kit in that area as well...

The 500 dollar pcbdrill/engraver is really not designed for the
entire multitude of tasks that the other machines can do. It is
slower and more lightly constructed, with a smaller overall size.
Most importantly, it has a small clearance (1-1/4") between the
gantry and table. This keeps the moment forces low and is part of the
reason it can be made and sold for $500. But you can still work on
3/4 wood or plastic, making signs or other "needed for electronic
projects" parts like panels and housings.

It will have no problems drilling and milling pcb's, and will
probably do most, if not all the things the mdx15 can do. But it's
not a 1000 buck or $3K, or $5k machine...

And these aren't yet ready for sale. But they're close... The larger,
more expensive machine could be had within a month. The others have
no firm timeline as yet. But you can help me change that!

I need some feedback about the questions I asked in the earlier
posts. What size and speed do you want/need from a 500 dollar pcb cnc
machine?

Resolution and repeatabiltity are no problem. The machines are all
leadscrew driven with antibacklash nuts. steppers are at least 800
steps per rev, making for 4000 or 8000 steps/inch. I already
mentioned ballpark feedrates, but would like your feedback on that as
well.

Thank you again for the replies. I was worried that there was no
interest from this group of potential kit CNC users!

Ballendo


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <alienrelics@y...>
wrote:
> I know I'm interested.
>
> Steve
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "ballendo" <ballendo@y...>
wrote:
> > Ron,
> >
> > I tend to agree about the overall value of PCB milling. It's
still
> > worth it for some projects, but for many it just doesn't make
sense
> > when the board houses have improved their prototype pricing and
> > delivery. BUT...
> >
> > A CNC machine in your pcb lab is FAR more than just a pcb
miller...
> >
> > At the barest minimum it's a pcb DRILL. And a front panel
engraver.
> > Panel cutouts for switches and displays, etc. is a no-brainer. To
me
> > the biggest mistake the folks at LPKF and T-tech make is that
their
> > machine is for drilling/tracemilling ONLY...
> >
> > I have a 15x15 machine for $5K, which is the equal of the LPKF
and T-
> > tech machines. (But can do much more than just pcb stuff, and
it's
> > not a kit.)
> >
> > The kit machines I was really asking about are lower priced...
> >
> > My thousand buck kit CNC machine (12x12x4") is useful in many
ways,
> > ONE of which is pcb trace milling(which IS useful for small
simple
> > boards.) It can also do PCB drilling, and has a resolution
> > of .000125, so detail is no problem. You can work on things as
thich
> > as 3-1/2 inches, and up to 18 inches wide. The machine itself has
a
> > 20 x 24" footprint.
> >
> > I'm pretty sure I can offer a 500 buck pcb drill with capability
for
> > board size of 6x8, maybe 8x12 inches. It can do some other CNC
type
> > things, like panel cutout and engraving, but it's really aimed at
> > just being a low-cost CNC drill option... Spindle is set up for
1/8
> > or 3mm shanks.
> >
> > The main thing is that these kits would be COMPLETE. And go
together
> > in an hour or two. No searching for components, power supplies,
> > software, soldering or anything else. Just a screwdriver,
hexwrench,
> > and your hands.
> >
> > But it doesn't seem as popular as I'd thought, based on responses
> > here so far...
> >
> > Now that I've let my target pricing out of the bag, perhaps there
> > might be interest?
> >
> > Balllendo
> >
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Ron Amundson"
> > <ron_amundson@h...> wrote:
> > > I used to have an entry level LPKF, the machine cost US$11,500
and
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> > with all
> > > the tooling and options it came in at US$19,200.<snip>

Re: Here's what you'd pay for a cnc pcb mill/drill kit...

2004-03-14 by Richard Mustakos

Ballendo,
I am real interested in it at the price! If you can throw in a kitchen
sink, I bet I could get my wife to want to buy one to! ;)
However you design it, please, please, look at any way that it might
be extended, and make sure you don't preclude it (this is my big
philosophy/bitch in software design, which I do). Like Alexandre said,
can it do all that stuff? - Which I think translates to:

Is there extra room for tubing or wiring in the cable runs?
Can you remove the tool mount on the Z axis and replace it without
having to recalibrate everything?
How hard is it to recalibrate?
Is the structure robust enough for extra weight?
Are the positioning motors powerful enough for extra weight?
If not, is there room to put a bigger servo/stepper?
How robust are the power supplies for the positioning system?
How hard is it to upgrade them if they are close to their max. spec?
Is the position sensing system you are using at it's limit in the
current design?
How much effort would it take to use a different one to support a bigger
work area later?
How hard to put in one or two more axis later?

Those are just a few things to ask yourself about your
design.

Other questions to ask yourself:

Are you doing this as a hobby, or as a business?
If it's a hobby, then you need to make sure you don't ruin the fun by
letting the business side take over. If it's a business, then you need
to be strict on how much you 'give away' (time more than materials), and
ask the follow questions:

Is your profit ratio sustainable?
You need to make sure that you don't mistake your markup/profit for what
you are getting paid to do the work of getting the kit together and
inevitable tech support. Your time is valuable, and if you don't take
it into consideration, you will find that you get tired of working for free.

How easy is it to take this design to a larger size?
You might as well have a product growth path built in so that you can
add more products without having to do all the NRE again.

How hard is to add accessory kits?
This is another possible revenue stream to look at.
I wish you much good planning doing this!
Richard

Re: Here's what you'd pay for a cnc pcb mill/drill kit...

2004-03-14 by ballendo

Richard,

Thank you for the reply and the concern<G> Which price?

The answer to most of your questions is yes, with a higher proportion
of "yes's" as you go up the price scale... I've been designing and
building cnc machines for nearly 15 years now...

There IS a reason more expensive machines are more expensive. The
trick is in discovering what can be taken out and what must be left
in, as one pursues a lower price.

One sure way to kill a low cost product is to try to make it do ALL
the same things as the higher priced unit. But sensible design is
another thing entirely. That IS available in ALL sizes and at ALL
price points. My machines are all sensibly designed. Where additional
functionality can be accomodated without undue sacrifice, it is
definitely added.

But if you start making the cable runs larger--just a bit--, and the
table sizes larger--just a bit--, and the structure a bit stronger to
support "possible" added weight--just a bit-- the price is gooing to
go up more than the "four bits" just described<G>

When this happens, either I stop doing it because it's not worth the
effort, or have to stop because the "ends" no longer meet.
Adding "extras" kills far more products than it saves... John ruskin
has a great quote, one of my favorites. It's at the bottom of this
message.

Many things that don't matter in more expensive machines DO matter
when the endeavor IS a business, and not just a means to Busy-ness...
Things which might not be immediately apparent to a casual
inspection, or even to a deep inspection by someone unarmed with all
the considerations.

Some sizes and choices are dictated by "standard" lengths and sizes
of materials. Others by what I call the "anomoly" part. (Which refers
to the one item in any given distributors line which represents the
best VALUE. It can be a COLOR, a SIZE, a TYPE, or sometimes even just
a certain MFR. that has decided a particular item is the one.

As an example, I have spent many days on the phone with many
different mfrs of similar items, and gotten reams of quotes for
things that seem clearly outside the scope of what I "want". All for
this reason-- TO see where the price is lower than the item warrants--
There is nearly always a DIP in the price for certain items. Nearly
always in a non-obviouos place. But a good distributor is not likely
to offer this information. (until you're doing 6 or 7 figures with
them, anyway...)

(I'm elaborating on this point because it is equally applicable in
getting parts for a PCB design, or designing the circuit in the first
place; when low cost is a goal.)

I recently did some boards that needed a low amperage fet for some
switching. In looking over the bins at the local seller, I came
across a part number that I didn't know, but obviously a small fet.
There were three bins of these parts, enough for the small run I
needed to do. And they were dusty! I bought a few, and asked that the
remainder be held while I checked out the few in my circuit. They
worked (after some juggling of parts values) and I saved a bundle,
when I took that slow mover off the distributors shelves at a serious
discount.

Other times the anomaly IS the most popular size. But you may not
THINK that particular size, type, color, or MFR. is the most popular.
So by perusing most of a product line, one can find the GAP part, the
abberration in the price structure and save some money, which can
then be used to lower the price without compromising the product.

Then there are things like box sizes, shipping sizes and weights,
these ALL have the same non-linear pricing, IME. Searching out the
anomalies is a must for a low cost unit. Sometimes this will allow
adding those "extras" you mention. Other times it may preclude them.
As Mariss of Gecko once said, "Every part must have a reason to be in
the circuit, it must pull its weight, and not strain the others".
Well that's more than a bit of a paraphrase, what he said was far
more eloquent. But it meant that if you're going for price, you can't
afford extras unless they bring "something REALLY worthwhile" to the
party...

So feed me your desires as to size and speed and capabilities, and
trust me to find the balance between what you NEED and what I can
give at that price...

Thank you again for the email!

Ballendo

P.S. Here's the Ruskin quote, familiar to many:

"It is unwise to pay too much, but it is worse to pay too little.
When you pay too much, you lose a little money . . . that is all.
When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because what
you bought was incapable of doing what it was bought to do.

The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and
getting a lot . . . it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest
bidder it is well to add something for the risk you run. And if you
do that, you will have enough to pay for the something better"
John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)

Trust that I would not be promoting this quote if I thought the 500
buck machine was not gonna do what I say it will do<G> I've been at
this awhile and I'm not wet behind the ears. (anymore<G>)
But it's not gonna be a 5kilobuck machine... I have that $5K one too,
if that's what you need!

BTW, Have you ever "played with" the online pricing calculators of
the pcb mfrs. (or shippers) to find the anomaly price? It takes more
than a few tries to discover how to truly get the lowest price...
Especially when your volume is not 500 or 1000+ It's a worthwhile
endeavor, IMO. and can be eye-opening, IME.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Richard Mustakos
<rmustakos@a...> wrote:
> Ballendo,
> I am real interested in it at the price! If you can throw in a
kitchen
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> sink, I bet I could get my wife to want to buy one to! ;)
> However you design it, please, please, look at any way that it
might be extended, and make sure you don't preclude it (this is my
big philosophy/bitch in software design, which I do). Like Alexandre
said, can it do all that stuff? - Which I think translates to:
<snip>

Re: Here's what you'd pay for a cnc pcb mill/drill kit...

2004-03-16 by wcchee

I am very interested at the price you are offering... do you take
orders from malaysia ?

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "ballendo" <ballendo@y...>
wrote:
> Richard,
>
> Thank you for the reply and the concern<G> Which price?
>
> The answer to most of your questions is yes, with a higher
proportion
> of "yes's" as you go up the price scale... I've been designing and
> building cnc machines for nearly 15 years now...
>
> There IS a reason more expensive machines are more expensive. The
> trick is in discovering what can be taken out and what must be left
> in, as one pursues a lower price.
>
> One sure way to kill a low cost product is to try to make it do ALL
> the same things as the higher priced unit. But sensible design is
> another thing entirely. That IS available in ALL sizes and at ALL
> price points. My machines are all sensibly designed. Where
additional
> functionality can be accomodated without undue sacrifice, it is
> definitely added.
>
> But if you start making the cable runs larger--just a bit--, and
the
> table sizes larger--just a bit--, and the structure a bit stronger
to
> support "possible" added weight--just a bit-- the price is gooing
to
> go up more than the "four bits" just described<G>
>
> When this happens, either I stop doing it because it's not worth
the
> effort, or have to stop because the "ends" no longer meet.
> Adding "extras" kills far more products than it saves... John
ruskin
> has a great quote, one of my favorites. It's at the bottom of this
> message.
>
> Many things that don't matter in more expensive machines DO matter
> when the endeavor IS a business, and not just a means to Busy-
ness...
> Things which might not be immediately apparent to a casual
> inspection, or even to a deep inspection by someone unarmed with
all
> the considerations.
>
> Some sizes and choices are dictated by "standard" lengths and sizes
> of materials. Others by what I call the "anomoly" part. (Which
refers
> to the one item in any given distributors line which represents the
> best VALUE. It can be a COLOR, a SIZE, a TYPE, or sometimes even
just
> a certain MFR. that has decided a particular item is the one.
>
> As an example, I have spent many days on the phone with many
> different mfrs of similar items, and gotten reams of quotes for
> things that seem clearly outside the scope of what I "want". All
for
> this reason-- TO see where the price is lower than the item
warrants--
> There is nearly always a DIP in the price for certain items. Nearly
> always in a non-obviouos place. But a good distributor is not
likely
> to offer this information. (until you're doing 6 or 7 figures with
> them, anyway...)
>
> (I'm elaborating on this point because it is equally applicable in
> getting parts for a PCB design, or designing the circuit in the
first
> place; when low cost is a goal.)
>
> I recently did some boards that needed a low amperage fet for some
> switching. In looking over the bins at the local seller, I came
> across a part number that I didn't know, but obviously a small fet.
> There were three bins of these parts, enough for the small run I
> needed to do. And they were dusty! I bought a few, and asked that
the
> remainder be held while I checked out the few in my circuit. They
> worked (after some juggling of parts values) and I saved a bundle,
> when I took that slow mover off the distributors shelves at a
serious
> discount.
>
> Other times the anomaly IS the most popular size. But you may not
> THINK that particular size, type, color, or MFR. is the most
popular.
> So by perusing most of a product line, one can find the GAP part,
the
> abberration in the price structure and save some money, which can
> then be used to lower the price without compromising the product.
>
> Then there are things like box sizes, shipping sizes and weights,
> these ALL have the same non-linear pricing, IME. Searching out the
> anomalies is a must for a low cost unit. Sometimes this will allow
> adding those "extras" you mention. Other times it may preclude them.
> As Mariss of Gecko once said, "Every part must have a reason to be
in
> the circuit, it must pull its weight, and not strain the others".
> Well that's more than a bit of a paraphrase, what he said was far
> more eloquent. But it meant that if you're going for price, you
can't
> afford extras unless they bring "something REALLY worthwhile" to
the
> party...
>
> So feed me your desires as to size and speed and capabilities, and
> trust me to find the balance between what you NEED and what I can
> give at that price...
>
> Thank you again for the email!
>
> Ballendo
>
> P.S. Here's the Ruskin quote, familiar to many:
>
> "It is unwise to pay too much, but it is worse to pay too little.
> When you pay too much, you lose a little money . . . that is all.
> When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because
what
> you bought was incapable of doing what it was bought to do.
>
> The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and
> getting a lot . . . it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest
> bidder it is well to add something for the risk you run. And if you
> do that, you will have enough to pay for the something better"
> John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
>
> Trust that I would not be promoting this quote if I thought the 500
> buck machine was not gonna do what I say it will do<G> I've been at
> this awhile and I'm not wet behind the ears. (anymore<G>)
> But it's not gonna be a 5kilobuck machine... I have that $5K one
too,
> if that's what you need!
>
> BTW, Have you ever "played with" the online pricing calculators of
> the pcb mfrs. (or shippers) to find the anomaly price? It takes
more
> than a few tries to discover how to truly get the lowest price...
> Especially when your volume is not 500 or 1000+ It's a worthwhile
> endeavor, IMO. and can be eye-opening, IME.
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Richard Mustakos
> <rmustakos@a...> wrote:
> > Ballendo,
> > I am real interested in it at the price! If you can throw in a
> kitchen
> > sink, I bet I could get my wife to want to buy one to! ;)
> > However you design it, please, please, look at any way that it
> might be extended, and make sure you don't preclude it (this is my
> big philosophy/bitch in software design, which I do). Like
Alexandre
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> said, can it do all that stuff? - Which I think translates to:
> <snip>