Homebrew_PCBs

I just have to say...WOW! FINALLY!!! After so many attempts with
different papers, methods, and whatnots, I finally have something
I'm proud to show off.
Stephan, you were absolutely right, a printer's fuser works
incredibly well. I did some tests on the fuser I am using (from an
old HP LaserJet IIIp), and found that a temp of 180 deg C
corresponded to around 1.65K of resistance from the internal
thermostat. I ran the temp up no higher than that after my initial
experience with parts melting.
I scrubbed the board with a Scotch Brite pad under running water
before hand, and didn't use alcohol or anything else chemical...just
a rinse in water to prep. Then, I printed my circuit with some of
the cheapest photo paper I could find - it's listed in our group's
papers area of the files section - HammerMill Jet Print Photo Multi-
Project Photo Paper, Gloss Finish, Medium Weight.
Since I didn't have the gearing intact from the printer anymore, I
let the fuser heat, then unplugged it, and pushed the board through
by hand. (Only about half of it was needed for my circuit design,
the other half was a handle). It was actually cool if you grabbed
it by the sides.
I went VERY slow through the fuser. For my 4 inch long design, I
stopped half way through, after about 15 seconds, to re-heat it,
then continue on. After 3 back and forth passes (in each direction,
making 6 exposures to the heat), I flipped the board and did 3 more,
for a total of 12. One roller is hard, while the other is softer
rubber. I think it's the rubber side that does most of the
transfering, so that was why the flipping.
After that, I put the board immediately in cold water and let it
soak for around 15 minutes.
Success. I put some photos in the photo area.

Thanks everybody for all your help. This is great.

-Josh
Pullman, WA

Josh,

what you say about the "soft side does most of the transfering"
is interesting...
i only tried it with the teflon/aluminium side on the paper.
But the silicone rubber is not heated, so only the "stored heat"
there or the heat through the pcb could melt the toner..

no doubt the rubber would make a very even pressure....

what do you think?


Have you made a thermostat already (no i guess).
would you please make one? ;-)

i would like a design using a thyristor to go with my final unit.
there is some means of isolation requiered (opto or transformer)
I think you go on now, design such a circuit, and i then simply
copy it without thinking, ok? ;-)

ST



On Sun, 22 Feb 2004 07:48:14 -0000, joshdewinter <joshdewinter@...>
wrote: