Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] (unknown)
2004-02-04 by Leon Heller
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From: "tboneuk_2000" <a_reynolds@...> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 1:07 AM Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] (unknown) > Hello all, > Wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction. > To find the correct exposure time I made up a strip of inkjet > transparent film with 10 identical dill sockets plus some lines, > placed this over a strip of "fotoboard 2" board (with glass holding > it all together) and placed it under a 2* 8W uv light for between 4 > and 13 mins (uncovering each dill socket every minuite). I made up > the developing solution ratio 10:1, and placed the board in a glass > dish containg developer. > After about 1 min I started to see my image appear on the board and > a bluish residue around the exposed print. This seemed ok but did > not develop any more as left it in the solution for a couple of more > mins, then the print slowely started to dissapear to nothing. I > tried etching anyway but all I got was a nice clean board striped of > all copper and no tracks/sockets at all. > At least I know how to etch the board but I am confused why the > image started to develop and then dissapeared. > > In case it helps I used fotoboard 2, pcb developer and pcb etchent > from maplins ( the products are made by chiltern and I had a 1:1 > ratio of etchent to water) Try agitating the developer by rocking the container continuously. It sounds as if it was too strong, anyway - Fotoboard 2 uses half-strength developer. Leon -- Leon Heller, G1HSM Email: aqzf13@... My low-cost Philips LPC210x ARM development system: http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller/lpc2104.html