Homebrew_PCBs

Brad,

Those are stamped and formed contacts. There are a gazillion types on the internet and ebay. With a quick look, I couldn't identify a source for the type you are using.

If I were doing what you describe, I wouldn't use those contacts. It will be difficult to keep the solder out of the top spring contact when you are soldering them in. Instead, I would use cylindrical machined socket pins, like this one: https://www.mill-max.com/products/rec/0297. These types of contacts have the spring socket contained within the body cylinder, allowing the solder to flow around the entire contact without having to protect the spring. They are probably more expensive, but will result in less rework and possible board damage.

The link I gave above is for a Mill-Max part I picked at random. When I do this, I sometimes buy some machined contact IC sockets or socket strips on ebay, and remove the contacts. This is a very inexpensive way to get them. The strips/sockets are made of thermoplastic material, and a little encouragement from the heat gun makes them very easy to remove.

Harvey

 

Figured if anyone might know it might be you guys.

 

I am making some double sided boards that will not be plate through – so I need these metal IC socket pins you install in a strip and then cut after soldering on both sides.  I have a roll of about 500 but will need many more.. I just can’t find more because I don’t know what their proper name is.  I’ve tried ‘IC socket strip’ but I get the strips with the plastic tops.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4pq0-BHd2x6czNwVFlLYWRNSUE/view?usp=sharing

 

Many thanks if anyone knows what the proper name is and/or where to get them.

 

Brad

 

 

 

brass eyelets for this purpose are on sale on eBay.
Here are two of my related saved searches:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=12576&_nkw=%281_+components_+%2Ceyelet%2Ceyelets%2C+%29+%28copper%2Cbrass%2Cnickel%2Ctin%2Cgold%2Csilver%2C%29+-%28stud%2Cscrew%2Ccurtain%2Ccurtains%2Cdress%2Cpin%2Cpins%2C+%29&_sop=10&replaceid=28272496013

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=12576&_nkw=%281_+components_+%2Caderendh%C3%BClsen%2Ceyelet%2Ceyelets%2Crivet%2Crivets+%29+-%28nylon%2Cbrake%2Cmachine%2Csqueezers%2Csqueezer%2Cpulling%2Cnose%2Criveter%2Ccutting%2Ccutter%2C+%29+-%28shaver%2Cpneumatic%2Caerospace%2Caircraft%2Cgun%2C+%29+-%28arrow%2Cleather%2C3%2C4%2C6%2C8%2C10%2C12%2Cclip%2Cpop%2Caluminum%2C+aluminium%2Ctool%2Cblind%2C+%29+-%28spray%2Cplier%2Cpliers%2Cdome%2Cstud%2C+%29&_sop=10&replaceid=28272269013

There's lot of junk because it's not so easy to filter the items. Anyway, you'll find quickly some 0.9 or 1mm eyelets.
regards

Hi,

I recall the item you are looking  for (with strip of metal along top that was removed after soldering) but also like you cannot recall the name.  As far as I am aware they have not been made for many years.  Presumably most people went to proper sockets as they became much cheaper.

A thousands of those pins were way cheaper than proper sockets.  Sockets in those days were much higher with more plastic.

Would they have been made by Vero -now defunct?

Cheers,

Will

 

Thanks Harvey,

 

Yeah I’ve heard a lot of not so good things about these sorts of contacts.  The reason I went with them is because I have a vintage Mark-8 project I’m doing and they are typically what was used and have the right vintage look.   In fact, I have a number of vintage home-brew machines with two sided boards and they all used these.  The ones I bought were from ebay and they were called ‘molex ic strip’ – but I don’t think that’s the right name and if I search under that now it comes up with the plastic topped ones, which I don’t want.

 

I’m sure they must have a proper name somewhere.. there must still be millions of them out there – they were used a lot back in the day. 

Brad

.

I considered using these in the past but never actually bought some. I believe they are normally called pcb rivets or hollow grommets, or eyelets. Of all things, Walmart sells a bulk pack of 200 for $6.

Finding the right grommet setting tool could be a bit harder. A hand operated press with top and bottom dies will probably run over $100. If you have access to a small lathe it may be possible to make your own. Harbor Freight sells a watch case press that possibly be modified to either take you home made dies or machine the parts that come with it. If you still have to tools then getting more rivets/grommets/eyelets should be easy.

Mike

They show up as either "vias" or "hollow grommets":

On 16 Oct 2017 01:45:51 +0000, you wrote:

>I considered using these in the past but never actually bought some. I believe they are normally called pcb rivets or hollow grommets, or eyelets. Of all things, Walmart sells a bulk pack of 200 for $6.

Hmmm, kinda been there, did that, then did other things instead.
I think the previous poster's comment about slotted rivets is quite
correct. I had a story from someone about the regular rivets not
working in the long run. Solder has to go to the outside of the
rivet, and that has to be soldered to the land on both sides. Then I
think it'll work. You do have to check both sides of the rivet.

>
>Finding the right grommet setting tool could be a bit harder. A hand operated press with top and bottom dies will probably run over $100.

I actually have one. Fortunately, it matched the rivets I bought.

>If you have access to a small lathe it may be possible to make your own.

From the size involved, you'd want almost a watchmaker's lathe,
smaller will be better here. The seat for the rivet is a simple
stepped cylinder, with enough of a center to keep the rivet centered.
The hammer part is a bit more tricky. It needs to be dished but only
in a ring. A standard conical punch shape would cause the rivet to
split, but not fold over against the PC material. Look at the much
larger rivet seating tools to see.

Once you make the tool, you'll want to harden it. Tool steel is
recommended.

>Harbor Freight sells a watch case press that possibly be modified to either take you home made dies or machine the parts that come with it.

A very light tap would work well. You'll find that the rivet takes a
lot of room on the board, needing a substantially sized hole. It'll
limit the size of the parts you can use. I ended up using copper
rivets (available locally).

>If you still have to tools then getting more rivets/grommets/eyelets should be easy.

You'd almost do as well with stake in terminals. It would be a much
larger board with somewhat difficult ways of doing vias. One
technique is to treat the whole board as single sided as far as parts
leads is considered, then stitch the top and bottom together with
thing gauge wire (say #26). You then solder on both sides, clip the
unwanted parts, and you have vias.

Doesn't allow you to do through holes well on things like parts leads,
but does work.

Lots depends on the size of the parts, the number of vias and whether
or not you can do a via without a plated hole, and if your design can
tolerate all through leads to be effectively single sided.

Harvey

>
>Mike

These look to me like the metal socket part that goes into the plastic ic socket you are more familiar with.  I've managed to get the metal out of one of those and they look identical, without the metal strip across the top.

The pins that I use come from female header strips, and sell for about 0.90 USD for 3 pieces of 40 pin strips, including shipping. Example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-PCS-Strip-Tin-PCB-Female-IC-Breakable-40pin-Single-Row-Round-Header-Socket-New-/361872902978?hash=item54414e4b42:g:2wwAAOSw7hRWQCzj. I use my heat gun to soften the plastic, ad push the pins out from the tail side.

Using these pins eliminates all the need for special tooling, and they are cheap. In my early days in the Aerospace industry, we used eyelets to repair pulled out holes in plated through boards. There are some considerations to using them, and they were eventually banned from military systems, except under very special circumstances. It was found that over time, the solder joints between the pad and the eyelet would crack. This situation could be improved by using funnel head eyelets and flaring the backside. This allowed the solder to make a fillet with the underside of both top and bottom of the eyelet. Flaring the eyelet without breaking it was somewhat problematical. The tooling had to be just right, and the force sufficient to make sure that the eyelet was firmly swaged to the board, with no play.

The pins that I propose can be used in either of two ways. The solder tail can be stuck right into the hole, and the tail soldered first, with the top pad then soldered to the shank of the pin. The other way would be to make larger holes, if the pads permit it, and push the shank through the hole and solder it to the bottom pad, and the collar of the pin then soldered to the top pad. This does require that the top pads be a bit larger. The advantage to the second method is that the socket pins will sit flat on the board, and will always be in line without adjustment. This assumes that one can drill the socket holes in a straight line. Once in place. the solder tails can be broken off to get them out of the way.

Harvey

 

I considered using these in the past but never actually bought some. I believe they are normally called pcb rivets or hollow grommets, or eyelets. Of all things, Walmart sells a bulk pack of 200 for $6.

Finding the right grommet setting tool could be a bit harder. A hand operated press with top and bottom dies will probably run over $100. If you have access to a small lathe it may be possible to make your own. Harbor Freight sells a watch case press that possibly be modified to either take you home made dies or machine the parts that come with it. If you still have to tools then getting more rivets/grommets/eyelets should be easy.

Mike

They were originally referred to as Molex Pins or Molex IC Sockets.  As far as I know they aren't made any more.  A while ago All Electronics had something like a last-time buy on them and I picked up a couple hundred. There does look to still be a single replacement source on eBay that I found, but you have to want 500 of them and they aren't real cheap:

I use nixie tube sockets for all sorts of connections.... and never owned a nixie tube.

100pcs Nixie/VFD Tube Socket Pins(1mm) Gold Plated IN-12 IN-18 IN-2 IN-8 ZM1040
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272708957417

I use wire wrap pins as the male end and the nixie tube socket as female connectors:
http://www.learnmorsecode.com/716/pin2.jpg

Perhaps nixie tube sockets are too large for ICs.... I don't know.

 

I’ve had reliability issues with those. Maybe if you can find something gold plated , but the tin ones I have had to reseat chips periodically because they would quit making a connection

 

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2017 3:19 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Slightly OT: What are these called?

 

& nbsp;

Figured if anyone might know it might be you guys.

 

I am making some double sided boards that will not be plate through – so I need these metal IC socket pins you install in a strip and then cut after soldering on both sides.  I have a roll of about 500 but will need many more.. I just can’t find more because I don’t know what their proper name is.  I’ve tried ‘IC socket strip’ but I get the strips with the plastic tops.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4pq0-BHd2x6czNwVFlLYWRNSUE/view?usp=sharing

 

Many thanks if anyone knows what the proper name is and/or where to get them.

 

Brad

 

 

 

Made by Molex.

RFH

******************

 

I’ve had reliability issues with those. Maybe if you can find something gold plated , but the tin ones I have had to reseat chips periodically because they would quit making a connection

 

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2017 3:19 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Slightly OT: What are these called?

 

 

Figured if anyone might know it might be you guys.

 

I am making some double sided boards that will not be plate through – so I need these metal IC socket pins you install in a strip and then cut after soldering on both sides.  I have a roll of about 500 but will need many more.. I just can’t find more because I don’t know what their proper name is.  I’ve tried ‘IC socket strip’ but I get the strips with the plastic tops.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4pq0-BHd2x6czNwVFlLYWRNSUE/view?usp=sharing

 

Many thanks if anyone knows what the proper name is and/or where to get them.

 

Brad