Homebrew_PCBs

I worked with PulsarProFX (Frank) when he was pushing the ApacheAL13P (then $79) before it got hard to come by when I was developing this mod. He sent me a full sample set of his products in exchange for a mod to try out, then the Apache became rare. Compared to the Chinese yellow transfer paper, the light blue Pulsar transfer paper is better because it's thicker, doesn't curl,  and doesn't need to be taped to another 'carrier' sheet of paper to prevent paper jams. That's really the only significant difference in usability. I use the thin yellow stuff now, taped onto regular paper.

The Green TRF foil etc, has no discernible advantage over the regular craft foils available in stationery stores and online.

Regarding consistency...a few factors to consider:

This is for my Apache/Trulam multi pass mod with cheap regular craft foil and cheap regular yellow ebay paper for boards from scissors cut, 1/2 oz copper,  to double sided 2mm thick with 2 oz copper.

Procedure:

• After drilling any 2-sided registration holes, clean/scrub the copper with 320 grit sandpaper and then isopropyl wipes using Bounty, don't use cheap tissue that sheds. Don't touch or blow on the cleaned copper.
• Save on your transfer paper by pre printing the PCB on regular paper, then cutting a piece of transfer paper (or using leftover pieces) and taping it (blue painters tape) to the printed area and running it thru the printer again.
• Do not touch the printed toner on the transfer paper, it is easily dislodged. Secure it to the PCB as soon as you can, use registration pins/holes if double sided and a little blue painters tape to secure, then remove the pins.
• Ensure the laminator is at temperature (340F for HP toner, 380F for Brother)  for at least 10 mins!!
• Run the board thru the centre of the laminator, where the temp sensor is, so it can compensate if u have a large board with large thermal mass. Use the multi pass mod. here..
  
• You don't generally need multi pass active when foiling the toner on PCB. Just try to feed the foil in smoothly so it doesn't crinkle.
  

If your Toner transfer has micro pits, sometimes caused when toner is running low, or if the foiling has crinkles,  touch up with a SILVER sharpie after the foil transfer, and let the ink dry, sitting  on the warm/hot laminator case for 2 or 3 mins before etching.

After etching/washing, drill the PCB while wet to mitigate dust and lengthen the life of your drill bits.

Ancel