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Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-30 by alan00463@...

In searching for a vendor of Liquid-Tin I ran across
this waterproofing spray:
http://bamtech.com/product/acrylic-coating/

Since I live in the RustBelt and know what oxidized
copper looks like, I wonder if I should use this on
my PCB to keep the copper from contacting moist air?

My PCB will be used outside in a plastic box.   The
plastic box will be waterproof, but not airtight.
I am guessing the Liquid Tin and leaded solder  ap-
plied to the traces will prevent oxidation.   I just
want to know if anybody has had experience with this
product or, if my thinking is wrong.

Has anybody used this product on a copper PCB used
outdoors?  If yes, would you recommend it?   Or
would something cheaper like this
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/home-builders/products/catalog/krylon-indooroutdoor-lacquer-spray-paint/?referringCategory=interior-paint-coatings/aerosols/&N=1568189400
work just as well?

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-30 by Rich Osman

On 7/30/2016 10:34 AM, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

In searching for a vendor of Liquid-Tin I ran across
this waterproofing spray:
http://bamtech.com/product/acrylic-coating/

Since I live in the RustBelt and know what oxidized
copper looks like, I wonder if I should use this on
my PCB to keep the copper from contacting moist air?

Some protection will be smart.


My PCB will be used outside in a plastic box.   The
plastic box will be waterproof, but not airtight.
I am guessing the Liquid Tin and leaded solder  ap-
plied to the traces will prevent oxidation.   I just

No, tin will just change the type of oxide.  Tin oxidizes too. 

want to know if anybody has had experience with this
product or, if my thinking is wrong.

Has anybody used this product on a copper PCB used
outdoors?  If yes, would you recommend it?   Or
would something cheaper like this
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/home-builders/products/catalog/krylon-indooroutdoor-lacquer-spray-paint/?referringCategory=interior-paint-coatings/aerosols/&N=1568189400
work just as well?


Just about any clear acrylic will adhere to clean copper and FR4 and it's variants.

Tin plate enhances solderability, and oxidized tin is generally easier to clean and make solderable.
-- 
mailto:lists@...     http://www.n1oz.net       ARS: N1OZ
Rich Osman;  POB 93167; Southlake, TX 76092 (Near DFW Airport) 



Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-30 by Harvey Altstadter

Alan,

There are two issues here. The first is oxidation of the copper, and the second is operation out of doors. If your only issue is oxidation of copper, then don't worry about it. It looks ugly, but as far as I know, it is self limiting.

A larger problem, and the reason why military and automotive hardware uses conformal coat on their boards is condensation.  In some ways, the better the ventilation in the box, the less of an issue this is. Small drain holes on the bottom of the box would be a good idea, unless the box is subjected to spray.  Condensation on your circuit board will cause upset of circuit operation in many cases.  Certainly, in analog circuits, the unexpected conductive paths caused by condensation will alter performance, possibly leading to catastrophic failure.  Digital circuits are less sensitive, but will ultimately be affected, particularly if the signals are very low level.

Conformal coats come in a variety of types, Acrylic, Polyurethane and Silicones, to mention the most popular types.

Krylon is an acrylic material. I have not used it because I worry about how long it will adhere to the board under the outdoor conditions. I have used Polyurethane successfully.  It was not a material designed for use as a conformal coat, as they are very expensive, and hard to get in small quantities. I used a spray material that is suitable for touch up on furniture finishes. At this point, I can't remember the name. Silicones fall into an entirely different category. They are more difficult to use. They usually need a primer, which is another step in the process.

In terms of repairability, the acrylics have it over the others. They are easily chemically removed, and another spray after repair finishes the job. Polyurethane is a killer to remove. Chances of doing damage are very high.  The method of removal is physical, with a good chance to damage surrounding circuit elements. Silicones can be removed by cutting and scraping. Don't be tempted to use the silicone material they sell at your local home supply store.  Silicone sealers, not made for the specific purpose of contact with electronic circuits use an acetic acid cure. This is why they smell like vinegar.  These sealers will eventually attack the copper on your circuit board.

All that said, for me, I would skip the Krylon and go with the Polyurethane furniture spray. A word of caution: Keep your coating thin and if your circuit board uses glass diodes, make sure they are lifted a bit off the board, so that the coating does not stick the part to the board. I have seen diodes crack because the coefficient of thermal expansion of the board is much greater than that  of the glass component.

Harvey


On 7/30/2016 8:34 AM, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

In searching for a vendor of Liquid-Tin I ran across
this waterproofing spray:
http://bamtech.com/product/acrylic-coating/

Since I live in the RustBelt and know what oxidized
copper looks like, I wonder if I should use this on
my PCB to keep the copper from contacting moist air?

My PCB will be used outside in a plastic box.   The
plastic box will be waterproof, but not airtight.
I am guessing the Liquid Tin and leaded solder  ap-
plied to the traces will prevent oxidation.   I just
want to know if anybody has had experience with this
product or, if my thinking is wrong.

Has anybody used this product on a copper PCB used
outdoors?  If yes, would you recommend it?   Or
would something cheaper like this
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/home-builders/products/catalog/krylon-indooroutdoor-lacquer-spray-paint/?referringCategory=interior-paint-coatings/aerosols/&N=1568189400
work just as well?

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-30 by Brad Thompson

On 7/30/2016 11:43 AM, Rich Osman lists@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
>
> On 7/30/2016 10:34 AM, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
>>
>> In searching for a vendor of Liquid-Tin I ran across
>> this waterproofing spray:
>> http://bamtech.com/product/acrylic-coating/
>>
>> Since I live in the RustBelt and know what oxidized
>> copper looks like, I wonder if I should use this on
>> my PCB to keep the copper from contacting moist air?
>>
> Some protection will be smart.
>>
>>
>> My PCB will be used outside in a plastic box. The
>> plastic box will be waterproof, but not airtight.
>> I am guessing the Liquid Tin and leaded solder ap-
>> plied to the traces will prevent oxidation. I just
>>
> No, tin will just change the type of oxide. Tin oxidizes too.

Hello--

Worse yet, tin can grow conductive whiskers that can cause short
circuits and intermittents:

http://nepp.nasa.gov/whisker/reference/tech_papers/2012-Panashchenko-IPC-Art-of-Metal-Whisker-Appreciation.pdf

There's information on what conformal coatings NASA found that would
resist whisker growth.

The waterproof box will collect moisture inside due to infiltration of
moist air and temperature cycling.
About all one can do is to create an air- and water-tight box that has a
moisture-accumulating
dryer cartridge venting the box. You'd have to periodically replace the
cartridge.


73--

Brad AA1IP

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-30 by Harvey Altstadter

Brad,

You are correct about the whiskers, but the conformal coat will not stop them. The whiskers will punch through the coating, and if two conductors are close enough, their respective whiskers can contact. I would stay away from tin, if at all possible.

The conditions that lead to whisker growth are not understood. They don't need extreme outdoor conditions, nor moisture, nor even air to initiate or grow. A lot of money has been thrown at this problem, and still there is no understanding of the basic physics of this phenomenon. Unfortunately, a lot of DIP package ICs were manufactured with tin platings on their leads.  Solder dipping right up to the body eliminates the threat, but may cause other damage. Newer packages use other platings that are not susceptible to whiskering.

Harvey


On 7/30/2016 12:08 PM, Brad Thompson brad.thompson@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 



On 7/30/2016 11:43 AM, Rich Osman lists@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
>
> On 7/30/2016 10:34 AM, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
>>
>> In searching for a vendor of Liquid-Tin I ran across
>> this waterproofing spray:
>> http://bamtech.com/product/acrylic-coating/
>>
>> Since I live in the RustBelt and know what oxidized
>> copper looks like, I wonder if I should use this on
>> my PCB to keep the copper from contacting moist air?
>>
> Some protection will be smart.
>>
>>
>> My PCB will be used outside in a plastic box. The
>> plastic box will be waterproof, but not airtight.
>> I am guessing the Liquid Tin and leaded solder ap-
>> plied to the traces will prevent oxidation. I just
>>
> No, tin will just change the type of oxide. Tin oxidizes too.

Hello--

Worse yet, tin can grow conductive whiskers that can cause short
circuits and intermittents:

http://nepp.nasa.gov/whisker/reference/tech_papers/2012-Panashchenko-IPC-Art-of-Metal-Whisker-Appreciation.pdf

There's information on what conformal coatings NASA found that would
resist whisker growth.

The waterproof box will collect moisture inside due to infiltration of
moist air and temperature cycling.
About all one can do is to create an air- and water-tight box that has a
moisture-accumulating
dryer cartridge venting the box. You'd have to periodically replace the
cartridge.

73--

Brad AA1IP

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-30 by Harvey White

On Sat, 30 Jul 2016 14:00:33 -0700, you wrote:

>Brad,
>
>You are correct about the whiskers, but the conformal coat will not stop
>them. The whiskers will punch through the coating, and if two conductors
>are close enough, their respective whiskers can contact. I would stay
>away from tin, if at all possible.
>
>The conditions that lead to whisker growth are not understood. They
>don't need extreme outdoor conditions, nor moisture, nor even air to
>initiate or grow. A lot of money has been thrown at this problem, and
>still there is no understanding of the basic physics of this phenomenon.
>Unfortunately, a lot of DIP package ICs were manufactured with tin
>platings on their leads. Solder dipping right up to the body eliminates
>the threat, but may cause other damage. Newer packages use other
>platings that are not susceptible to whiskering.

It's possible that the amount of tin available may have something to
do with the possible whiskering. I don't remember that there was a
problem with tin plating on PC boards (not that I ever heard), but
once we went to environmentally safe mostly tin solder, we had a
problem with whiskering. Since NASA was required by congressional
edict to be be environmentally sensitive and reflect the current
administrations's environmental goals (yes, that's cynical), NASA of
course used the almost completely tin solder. I am rather curious of
how many orbital satellites ended up in a landfill, but then
again.....

From what I know, regular tin plating is not a problem. Mostly tin
solder is. How long this whisker growth takes I do not know, a rough
suspicion (and that's all it is) says 3 to 5 years regardless of what
you do.

For a home project, you just have to take it apart and figure out what
the problem is. For something in orbit, you're pooched....

For consumer electronics, you just buy a new one, after all, you
didn't think that your 1000 dollar TV would last more than 3 to 5
years, did you?

I use lead solder.....

Harvey (the other one, who's watched too many political commercials
lately)

<grin>



>
>Harvey
>
>
>On 7/30/2016 12:08 PM, Brad Thompson brad.thompson@...
>[Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> On 7/30/2016 11:43 AM, Rich Osman lists@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
>> >
>> > On 7/30/2016 10:34 AM, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
>> >>
>> >> In searching for a vendor of Liquid-Tin I ran across
>> >> this waterproofing spray:
>> >> http://bamtech.com/product/acrylic-coating/
>> >>
>> >> Since I live in the RustBelt and know what oxidized
>> >> copper looks like, I wonder if I should use this on
>> >> my PCB to keep the copper from contacting moist air?
>> >>
>> > Some protection will be smart.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> My PCB will be used outside in a plastic box. The
>> >> plastic box will be waterproof, but not airtight.
>> >> I am guessing the Liquid Tin and leaded solder ap-
>> >> plied to the traces will prevent oxidation. I just
>> >>
>> > No, tin will just change the type of oxide. Tin oxidizes too.
>>
>> Hello--
>>
>> Worse yet, tin can grow conductive whiskers that can cause short
>> circuits and intermittents:
>>
>> http://nepp.nasa.gov/whisker/reference/tech_papers/2012-Panashchenko-IPC-Art-of-Metal-Whisker-Appreciation.pdf
>>
>> There's information on what conformal coatings NASA found that would
>> resist whisker growth.
>>
>> The waterproof box will collect moisture inside due to infiltration of
>> moist air and temperature cycling.
>> About all one can do is to create an air- and water-tight box that has a
>> moisture-accumulating
>> dryer cartridge venting the box. You'd have to periodically replace the
>> cartridge.
>>
>> 73--
>>
>> Brad AA1IP
>>
>>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by Harvey White

On 30 Jul 2016 19:47:17 -0700, you wrote:

>I use leaded solder too, Harvey. W. Which is why I wash my hands after soldering before eating.

Yep, and very careful when I pet the cats, too.

Most of what I work on, equipment wise, is lead soldered, although I
do have a roll of the lead-free solder.

Harvey

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by Stefan Trethan

That's not been my experience.
I haven't seen any whiskers on solder, but since I look I often see
them on plated metal parts (relay housings, shielding boxes, brackets,
switches, etc.) and also some components leads of ICs and such.
This has always been in very old equipment 30 years+, well pre-ROHS. I
have never found whiskers in modern or leadfree soldered equipment
myself, but don't doubt others might have.
Perhaps it is just that the old whiskers are much longer, and can be
spotted with the naked eye, but I have always considered this a legacy
problem from before they knew to avoid bright tin plating. I think in
many situations they would just burn away, they are very thin.

From what I understand it's mostly the bright (pure) tin plating
that's the problem, and most alloy solders are fine, even if it is
just small amounts mixed in. It's also a factor how thick the plating
is (galvanic or hot dipped) but don't recall which is worse.

ST



On Sun, Jul 31, 2016 at 12:35 AM, Harvey White madyn@...
> From what I know, regular tin plating is not a problem. Mostly tin
> solder is. How long this whisker growth takes I do not know, a rough
> suspicion (and that's all it is) says 3 to 5 years regardless of what
> you do.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by Harvey Altstadter

Stefan,

You shouldn't see whiskers on the solder.  Three percent lead in the solder is sufficient to prevent whiskers. One of the problems with whiskers is that you can have two samples from the same batch, where one will develop whiskers, while the other does not. The parts don't have to be old to have whiskers.  Parts with newer finishes don't include tin, so they are immune.


On 7/30/2016 10:42 PM, Stefan Trethan stefan_trethan@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

That's not been my experience.
I haven't seen any whiskers on solder, but since I look I often see
them on plated metal parts (relay housings, shielding boxes, brackets,
switches, etc.) and also some components leads of ICs and such.
This has always been in very old equipment 30 years+, well pre-ROHS. I
have never found whiskers in modern or leadfree soldered equipment
myself, but don't doubt others might have.
Perhaps it is just that the old whiskers are much longer, and can be
spotted with the naked eye, but I have always considered this a legacy
problem from before they knew to avoid bright tin plating. I think in
many situations they would just burn away, they are very thin.

>From what I understand it's mostly the bright (pure) tin plating
that's the problem, and most alloy solders are fine, even if it is
just small amounts mixed in. It's also a factor how thick the plating
is (galvanic or hot dipped) but don't recall which is worse.

ST

On Sun, Jul 31, 2016 at 12:35 AM, Harvey White madyn@...
> From what I know, regular tin plating is not a problem. Mostly tin
> solder is. How long this whisker growth takes I do not know, a rough
> suspicion (and that's all it is) says 3 to 5 years regardless of what
> you do.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg

Alan

I use a knife and fork to eat my food, not my hands..... ;~)

Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 7/31/16, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, July 31, 2016, 3:47 AM


 









I use leaded solder too, Harvey. W.    Which is
why I wash my hands after soldering before eating.









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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by Harvey White

On Sun, 31 Jul 2016 14:27:19 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:

>Alan
>
>I use a knife and fork to eat my food, not my hands..... ;~)

What, including sandwiches?

Harvey

>
>Malcolm
>
>I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
>Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
>The writing is on the wall.
>Ha-ktovet al ha-kir
>
>--------------------------------------------
>On Sun, 7/31/16, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sunday, July 31, 2016, 3:47 AM
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I use leaded solder too, Harvey. W.    Which is
> why I wash my hands after soldering before eating.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> #yiv9500515032 #yiv9500515032 --
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by Stefan Trethan

Do you also prepare your food without touching? ;-)

I don't worry much about the solid wire (although I do wash my hands
of course), but the solder paste, and especially the dust that
collects in your desoldering iron, or in the wire wool sponge where
you wipe the tip, that's more of a hazard. So don't just dump that in
your trash bin.

ST

On Sun, Jul 31, 2016 at 4:27 PM, Malcolm Parker-Lisberg
mparkerlisberg@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
<Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> Alan
>
> I use a knife and fork to eat my food, not my hands..... ;~)
>
> Malcolm
>
> I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
> Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
> The writing is on the wall.
> Ha-ktovet al ha-kir
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg

Stefan

" Do you also prepare your food without touching? ;-) "

I don't prepare the food, the wife does that.... :~)

I do think there is a lot of fuss and over emphasis of what is an insignificant problem. Keep lead away from developing youngster certainly. But most of the lead on the planet that can cause polution came from and is still in cars..... Lead acid batteries.

Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 7/31/16, Stefan Trethan stefan_trethan@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, July 31, 2016, 4:23 PM


 









Do you also prepare your food without touching?
;-)



I don't worry much about the solid wire (although I do
wash my hands

of course), but the solder paste, and especially the dust
that

collects in your desoldering iron, or in the wire wool
sponge where

you wipe the tip, that's more of a hazard. So don't
just dump that in

your trash bin.



ST



On Sun, Jul 31, 2016 at 4:27 PM, Malcolm Parker-Lisberg

mparkerlisberg@... [Homebrew_PCBs]

<Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

> Alan

>

> I use a knife and fork to eat my food, not my
hands..... ;~)

>

> Malcolm

>

> I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!

> Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin

> The writing is on the wall.

> Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

>











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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by casy_ch@tbwil.ch

Lovely answer Malcom!

That reminds me a US ham having visited Switzerland with his young son not too much long ago and saying that they washed their hands at least 30-40 times/day and were glad that they arrived back in the USA safe and without any desease.

73 de Jean-Claude, HB3YDH


Am 31.07.2016 um 16:27 schrieb Malcolm Parker-Lisberg mparkerlisberg@... [Homebrew_PCBs]:
 

Alan

I use a knife and fork to eat my food, not my hands..... ;~)

Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

--------------------------------------------


On Sun, 7/31/16, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, July 31, 2016, 3:47 AM


I use leaded solder too, Harvey. W.    Which is
why I wash my hands after soldering before eating.




Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by Stefan Trethan

Maybe we should ask if you touch your wife then? ;-)

I think car batteries are actually the most recycled consumer item,
more than 99% are recycled. I agree most of the harmful lead came from
leaded petrol in cars, lead pipes, and paint. Solder seams in cans
poisoned a few people, but electronics solder was never a health
hazard for us.

However when I do see where our electronic junk ends up now, in Asia
and Africa, and how it is treated there, I suffer the leadfree solder
gladly, and quietly.
Until we get our act together and treat our waste properly the least
we can do is make it as non-toxic as possible.

Did you know there is statistical evidence that the phasing out of
leaded petrol and paint caused a subsequent drop in crime in the
following decades?

ST


On Sun, Jul 31, 2016 at 5:37 PM, Malcolm Parker-Lisberg
mparkerlisberg@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
<Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> Stefan
>
> " Do you also prepare your food without touching? ;-) "
>
> I don't prepare the food, the wife does that.... :~)
>
> I do think there is a lot of fuss and over emphasis of what is an insignificant problem. Keep lead away from developing youngster certainly. But most of the lead on the planet that can cause polution came from and is still in cars..... Lead acid batteries.
>
> Malcolm
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg

Stephan

" Maybe we should ask if you touch your wife then? ;-)"

Don't often, she always has a headache.......

If I recall, "There are Lies, Damn Lies and Statistics"

Just sort out the recycling, that is all that is needed.
The resourses of the planet are there to be used, but wisely, not just banned..

Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 7/31/16, Stefan Trethan stefan_trethan@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, July 31, 2016, 4:53 PM


 









Maybe we should ask if you touch your wife then?
;-)



I think car batteries are actually the most recycled
consumer item,

more than 99% are recycled. I agree most of the harmful lead
came from

leaded petrol in cars, lead pipes, and paint. Solder seams
in cans

poisoned a few people, but electronics solder was never a
health

hazard for us.



However when I do see where our electronic junk ends up now,
in Asia

and Africa, and how it is treated there, I suffer the
leadfree solder

gladly, and quietly.

Until we get our act together and treat our waste properly
the least

we can do is make it as non-toxic as possible.



Did you know there is statistical evidence that the phasing
out of

leaded petrol and paint caused a subsequent drop in crime in
the

following decades?



ST



On Sun, Jul 31, 2016 at 5:37 PM, Malcolm Parker-Lisberg

mparkerlisberg@... [Homebrew_PCBs]

<Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

> Stefan

>

> " Do you also prepare your food without
touching? ;-) "

>

> I don't prepare the food, the wife does that....
:~)

>

> I do think there is a lot of fuss and over emphasis of
what is an insignificant problem. Keep lead away from
developing youngster certainly. But most of the lead on the
planet that can cause polution came from and is still in
cars..... Lead acid batteries.

>

> Malcolm

>











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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by alan00463@...

Thanks, Brad.   I watched the NASA video.

No, Harvey A., my circuit has no glass diodes, or other components that I know to contain glass.

I am glad you mentioned condensation, as I had never thought of
it occuring on my circuit board.    Having just defrosted my freezer yester
day, I  know it grows quickly on cold surfaces.    Since my circuit con-
troller will always be outdoors while in use, I will keep it inside when
not in use, so that condensation doesn't happen.    Nonetheless, I will inspect the PCB for condensation when the outdoor temperature drops.   The only "spray" the box might be subjected to is rain, which is distilled water.   The box will be on my screened-in wooden porch.  The porch was built with pressure-treated wood many years ago, but for the past several years moss has been growing on the wood, which should tell you how damp it is. (Another project--re-waterproofing the wooden porch.!   Will probably need another recommendation for treating that wood too, but email me privately for that.)

Okay, copper oxidation won't degrade the circuit's performance.

What about tin oxide?   Does either Liquid-Tin coating or leaded
solder contain tin?   If yes, do you think tin oxide will degrade the circuit's
performance ?   Or is too "self-limiting" and of no consequence?

I am not sure what you meant by the "Polyurethane wood polish" you recommend.   I am trying to identify a furniture polish containing polyurethane.   So far, I am only finding furniture polishes designed for wood furniture that has a top coat of polyurethane, like the one on your local tavern's wooden bar top.   I'm not sure whether to look for a furniture polish that was designed to be applied to a polyurethane top coat, or that actually contains polyurethane as listed in the ingredients.   Or are they one and the same?    As you can tell, I am pretty much ignorant about this product.   I am guessing its purpose is to fill in surface scratches on a polyurethane top coat.

73 to all.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg

Harvey

For toasted sandwhiches..............
Otherwise, hold the crust and feed that to the pesky Pigeons or Grey Squirrels.

Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 7/31/16, Harvey White madyn@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, July 31, 2016, 4:10 PM


 









On Sun, 31 Jul 2016 14:27:19 +0000 (UTC), you
wrote:



>Alan

>

>I use a knife and fork to eat my food, not my hands.....
;~)



What, including sandwiches?



Harvey



>

>Malcolm

>

>I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!

>Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin

>The writing is on the wall.

>Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

>

>--------------------------------------------

>On Sun, 7/31/16, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
<Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

>

> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of
copper outdoors

> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com

> Date: Sunday, July 31, 2016, 3:47 AM

>

>

>  

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> I use leaded solder too, Harvey. W.    Which
is

> why I wash my hands after soldering before eating.

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by Stefan Trethan

The tin and solder will also be fine if it tarnishes, as long as there is no corrosion from actual moisture on the board. Only if there is moisture you need to coat the board, even if the circuit is not sensitive to leakage currents it would cause electrolytic corrosion which can eat circuit board traces in a short amount of time.

Apart from the whiskers there is another funny thing that happens with tin at cold temperatures, it gets tin pest and turns into a grey powdery substance. Cody Reeder made a nice video about it (Cody's Lab on Youtube). Again this is a mere scientific curiosity and won't affect your circuit, even outdoors.

I missed the glass body diodes comment the first time around, but it is very valid, also for surface mount glass body diodes. They have a tiny expansion gap on one end, between the glass and metal terminal, which you must not fill with coating or potting compound or they can malfunction after thermal cycling.

I agree that polyurethane is a very good choice, you would want some kind of laquer since polish is often extremely dilute stuff, designed not to build up but to leave just a minimal coating that fills tiny scratches. You want whatever would be used to initially coat the wood, rather than the product meant for periodic maintenance and cleaning. Unlike Harvey I would not hesitate to use Acrylic in place of Polyurethane, I have used it in the past (even regular water based acrylic wood paint) with no problems. Some commercial PCB coatings are also acrylic.


ST


On Sun, Jul 31, 2016 at 6:48 PM, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


Thanks, Brad.   I watched the NASA video.

No, Harvey A., my circuit has no glass diodes, or other components that I know to contain glass.

I am glad you mentioned condensation, as I had never thought of
it occuring on my circuit board.    Having just defrosted my freezer yester
day, I  know it grows quickly on cold surfaces.    Since my circuit con-
troller will always be outdoors while in use, I will keep it inside when
not in use, so that condensation doesn't happen.    Nonetheless, I will inspect the PCB for condensation when the outdoor temperature drops.   The only "spray" the box might be subjected to is rain, which is distilled water.   The box will be on my screened-in wooden porch.  The porch was built with pressure-treated wood many years ago, but for the past several years moss has been growing on the wood, which should tell you how damp it is. (Another project--re-waterproofing the wooden porch.!   Will probably need another recommendation for treating that wood too, but email me privately for that.)

Okay, copper oxidation won't degrade the circuit's performance.

What about tin oxide?   Does either Liquid-Tin coating or leaded
solder contain tin?   If yes, do you think tin oxide will degrade the circuit's
performance ?   Or is too "self-limiting" and of no consequence?

I am not sure what you meant by the "Polyurethane wood polish" you recommend.   I am trying to identify a furniture polish containing polyurethane.   So far, I am only finding furniture polishes designed for wood furniture that has a top coat of polyurethane, like the one on your local tavern's wooden bar top.   I'm not sure whether to look for a furniture polish that was designed to be applied to a polyurethane top coat, or that actually contains polyurethane as listed in the ingredients.   Or are they one and the same?    As you can tell, I am pretty much ignorant about this product.   I am guessing its purpose is to fill in surface scratches on a polyurethane top coat.

73 to all.


RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by keith printy

Just so you know,if you bring something in from outside in winter you will get condensation until it warms up. That is why back in the vcr days they had a dew sensor on the video heads. It could take up to 4 hours before you could use it.

 

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2016 12:48 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

 

 

Thanks, Brad.   I watched the NASA video.

No, Harvey A., my circuit has no glass diodes, or other components that I know to contain glass.

I am glad you mentioned condensation, as I had never thought of
it occuring on my circuit board.    Having just defrosted my freezer yester
day, I  know it grows quickly on cold surfaces.    Since my circuit con-
troller will always be outdoors while in use, I will keep it inside when
not in use, so that condensation doesn't happen.    Nonetheless, I will inspect the PCB for condensation when the outdoor temperature drops.   The only "spray" the box might be subjected to is rain, which is distilled water.   The box will be on my screened-in wooden porch.  The porch was built with pressure-treated wood many years ago, but for the past several years moss has been growing on the wood, which should tell you how damp it is. (Another project--re-waterproofing the wooden porch.!   Will probably need another recommendation for treating that wood too, but email me privately for that.)

Okay, copper oxidation won't degrade the circuit's performance.

What about tin oxide?   Does either Liquid-Tin coating or leaded
solder contain tin?   If yes, do you think tin oxide will degrade the circuit's
performance ?   Or is too "self-limiting" and of no consequence?

I am not sure what you meant by the "Polyurethane wood polish" you recommend.   I am trying to identify a furniture polish containing polyurethane.   So far, I am only finding furniture polishes designed for wood furniture that has a top coat of polyurethane, like the one on your local tavern's wooden bar top.   I'm not sure whether to look for a furniture polish that was designed to be applied to a polyurethane top coat, or that actually contains polyurethane a! s listed in the ingredients.   Or are they one and the same?    As you can tell, I am pretty much ignorant about this product.   I am guessing its purpose is to fill in surface scratches on a polyurethane top coat.

73 to all.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by Stefan Trethan

You know frequent headaches are a symptom of lead poisoning... ;-)

I'm not entirely convinced about the data myself, but they made a
pretty good case, since lead was phased out at different times in
different countries and the effect was always there. It is well
established that lead makes people more stupid, and more risk-taking,
so I can see how it could be true. The wider question I have is if it
had an effect on crime, just what effect did it have on the general
intelligence of the population, and where we are now as a result of
that. We might never know just how much damage Thomas Midgley actually
did. Some of the damage is only apparent decades later (as with
asbestos), and some is never discovered.

I agree effective waste treatment would be preferable, but this is
better than doing nothing.

ST



On Sun, Jul 31, 2016 at 6:21 PM, Malcolm Parker-Lisberg
mparkerlisberg@...
> Don't often, she always has a headache.......
>
> If I recall, "There are Lies, Damn Lies and Statistics"
>
> Just sort out the recycling, that is all that is needed.
> The resourses of the planet are there to be used, but wisely, not just banned..
>
> Malcolm

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by Harvey White

On Sun, 31 Jul 2016 17:48:40 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:

>Harvey
>
>For toasted sandwhiches..............
>Otherwise, hold the crust and feed that to the pesky Pigeons or Grey Squirrels.

Especially after you solder something?

reminds me of "poisoning pigeons in the park", I think by Spike Lee..

Harvey

>
>Malcolm
>
>I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
>Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
>The writing is on the wall.
>Ha-ktovet al ha-kir
>
>--------------------------------------------
>On Sun, 7/31/16, Harvey White madyn@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sunday, July 31, 2016, 4:10 PM
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, 31 Jul 2016 14:27:19 +0000 (UTC), you
> wrote:
>
>
>
> >Alan
>
> >
>
> >I use a knife and fork to eat my food, not my hands.....
> ;~)
>
>
>
> What, including sandwiches?
>
>
>
> Harvey
>
>
>
> >
>
> >Malcolm
>
> >
>
> >I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
>
> >Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
>
> >The writing is on the wall.
>
> >Ha-ktovet al ha-kir
>
> >
>
> >--------------------------------------------
>
> >On Sun, 7/31/16, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
> <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of
> copper outdoors
>
> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>
> > Date: Sunday, July 31, 2016, 3:47 AM
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >  
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > I use leaded solder too, Harvey. W.    Which
> is
>
> > why I wash my hands after soldering before eating.
>
> >
>
> >
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> >
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by Harvey Altstadter

Alan,

My comments about spray have to do with vent holes only. No spray, no problem.  If it is very warm inside when you bring the unit outside, you may get condensation. A vented box will equalize after a while.

Rain? What is rain? I live in Arizona. Can't help on wood treatment, the termites ate all of ours years ago.

BTW: Rainwater is not the same a distilled water. It contains whatever soluble contaminants that are present in the air, i.e. acid rain.

The polyurethane coating that I refer to is not a polish, it is a finish, like a varnish. Here is a link to the type of product that I am talking about. I offer this as an example, I have not used this particular material:

http://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Fast-Drying-Polyurethane-Semi-Gloss-Base-11-5-fl-oz-Polyurethane/999913669

Leaded solder contains tin, but a lead content of 3% or greater eliminates the whiskers. You should be able to find that info on the NASA website. This is the problem with the ROHS directive being in absolutes. A mere pinch of lead would do away with the whisker problem in it's entirety.

I am not familiar with the Liquid Tin product, but if it leaves any elemental tin (not oxide), then it can be a source of whiskers. I suspect that this is the same thing that the industry calls immersion tin.  That process is a chemical replacement where the liquid is a tin salt, and the reaction exchanges the copper for tin, leaving elemental tin on the surface, with the copper going into solution as a copper salt. Clean copper quickly oxidizes, making soldering to the board difficult to impossible. The purpose of immersion tin is to keep the surface solderable when the board is not immediately used. It is an identified source of whiskers. http://www.epectec.com/articles/pcb-surface-finish-advantages-and-disadvantages.html

I hope this answers all your questions.

Harvey
On 7/31/2016 9:48 AM, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

Thanks, Brad.   I watched the NASA video.

No, Harvey A., my circuit has no glass diodes, or other components that I know to contain glass.

I am glad you mentioned condensation, as I had never thought of
it occuring on my circuit board.    Having just defrosted my freezer yester
day, I  know it grows quickly on cold surfaces.    Since my circuit con-
troller will always be outdoors while in use, I will keep it inside when
not in use, so that condensation doesn't happen.    Nonetheless, I will inspect the PCB for condensation when the outdoor temperature drops.   The only "spray" the box might be subjected to is rain, which is distilled water.   The box will be on my screened-in wooden porch.  The porch was built with pressure-treated wood many years ago, but for the past several years moss has been growing on the wood, which should tell you how damp it is. (Another project--re-waterproofing the wooden porch.!   Will probably need another recommendation for treating that wood too, but email me privately for that.)

Okay, copper oxidation won't degrade the circuit's performance.

What about tin oxide?   Does either Liquid-Tin coating or leaded
solder contain tin?   If yes, do you think tin oxide will degrade the circuit's
performance ?   Or is too "self-limiting" and of no consequence?

I am not sure what you meant by the "Polyurethane wood polish" you recommend.   I am trying to identify a furniture polish containing polyurethane.   So far, I am only finding furniture polishes designed for wood furniture that has a top coat of polyurethane, like the one on your local tavern's wooden bar top.   I'm not sure whether to look for a furniture polish that was designed to be applied to a polyurethane top coat, or that actually contains polyurethane as listed in the ingredients.   Or are they one and the same?    As you can tell, I am pretty much ignorant about this product.   I am guessing its purpose is to fill in surface scratches on a polyurethane top coat.

73 to all.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by Stefan Trethan

Do wash your hands guys, who doesn't hate test equipment that is grubby around the switches and knobs. 

When you kick the bucket from lead poisoning and your children sell off all your stuff on Ebay it might just be me picking it up, so please keep things sanitary.

ST

On Sun, Jul 31, 2016 at 5:38 PM, 'casy_ch@...' casy_ch@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


Lovely answer Malcom!

That reminds me a US ham having visited Switzerland with his young son not too much long ago and saying that they washed their hands at least 30-40 times/day and were glad that they arrived back in the USA safe and without any desease.

73 de Jean-Claude, HB3YDH


Am 31.07.2016 um 16:27 schrieb Malcolm Parker-Lisberg mparkerlisberg@... [Homebrew_PCBs]:
 

Alan

I use a knife and fork to eat my food, not my hands..... ;~)

Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

--------------------------------------------


On Sun, 7/31/16, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, July 31, 2016, 3:47 AM


I use leaded solder too, Harvey. W.    Which is
why I wash my hands after soldering before eating.







Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by Harvey Altstadter

Poisoning Pigeons in the Park is by Tom Lehrer

Every Sunday you'll see...

The other Harvey
On 7/31/2016 11:39 AM, Harvey White madyn@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

On Sun, 31 Jul 2016 17:48:40 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:

>Harvey
>
>For toasted sandwhiches..............
>Otherwise, hold the crust and feed that to the pesky Pigeons or Grey Squirrels.

Especially after you solder something?

reminds me of "poisoning pigeons in the park", I think by Spike Lee..

Harvey

>
>Malcolm
>
>I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
>Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
>The writing is on the wall.
>Ha-ktovet al ha-kir
>
>--------------------------------------------
>On Sun, 7/31/16, Harvey White madyn@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sunday, July 31, 2016, 4:10 PM
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, 31 Jul 2016 14:27:19 +0000 (UTC), you
> wrote:
>
>
>
> >Alan
>
> >
>
> >I use a knife and fork to eat my food, not my hands.....
> ;~)
>
>
>
> What, including sandwiches?
>
>
>
> Harvey
>
>
>
> >
>
> >Malcolm
>
> >
>
> >I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
>
> >Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
>
> >The writing is on the wall.
>
> >Ha-ktovet al ha-kir
>
> >
>
> >--------------------------------------------
>
> >On Sun, 7/31/16, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
> <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of
> copper outdoors
>
> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>
> > Date: Sunday, July 31, 2016, 3:47 AM
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >  
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > I use leaded solder too, Harvey. W.    Which
> is
>
> > why I wash my hands after soldering before eating.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
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> >
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by Brad Thompson

On 7/31/2016 2:39 PM, Harvey White madyn@...
[Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
>
> On Sun, 31 Jul 2016 17:48:40 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:
>
> >Harvey
> >
> >For toasted sandwhiches..............
> >Otherwise, hold the crust and feed that to the pesky Pigeons or Grey
> Squirrels.
>
> Especially after you solder something?
>
> reminds me of "poisoning pigeons in the park", I think by Spike Lee..
>
Hello--

Nope-- it's Tom Lehrer:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom_Lehrer

..And the song referenced...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhuMLpdnOjY


Check out his discography-- his original songs are masterpieces of satire.

73--

Brad AA1IP

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-07-31 by Harvey White

On Sun, 31 Jul 2016 12:37:53 -0700, you wrote:

>Alan,
>
>My comments about spray have to do with vent holes only. No spray, no
>problem. If it is very warm inside when you bring the unit outside, you
>may get condensation. A vented box will equalize after a while.
>
>Rain? What is rain? I live in Arizona. Can't help on wood treatment, the
>termites ate all of ours years ago.
>
>BTW: Rainwater is not the same a distilled water. It contains whatever
>soluble contaminants that are present in the air, i.e. acid rain.
>
>The polyurethane coating that I refer to is not a polish, it is a
>finish, like a varnish. Here is a link to the type of product that I am
>talking about. I offer this as an example, I have not used this
>particular material:
>
>http://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Fast-Drying-Polyurethane-Semi-Gloss-Base-11-5-fl-oz-Polyurethane/999913669
>
>Leaded solder contains tin, but a lead content of 3% or greater
>eliminates the whiskers. You should be able to find that info on the
>NASA website. This is the problem with the ROHS directive being in
>absolutes. A mere pinch of lead would do away with the whisker problem
>in it's entirety.
>
>I am not familiar with the Liquid Tin product, but if it leaves any
>elemental tin (not oxide), then it can be a source of whiskers. I
>suspect that this is the same thing that the industry calls immersion
>tin. That process is a chemical replacement where the liquid is a tin
>salt, and the reaction exchanges the copper for tin, leaving elemental
>tin on the surface, with the copper going into solution as a copper
>salt. Clean copper quickly oxidizes, making soldering to the board
>difficult to impossible. The purpose of immersion tin is to keep the
>surface solderable when the board is not immediately used. It is an
>identified source of whiskers.
>http://www.epectec.com/articles/pcb-surface-finish-advantages-and-disadvantages.html
>
>I hope this answers all your questions.

The MG chemicals solution contains "brighteners" that remove
oxidization from the copper. (seen that) There is no guarantee that
the coverage will be even, however. Seen that one, too. Not sure
what caused that, could have been weak solution, but agitating it did
not fix the problem.

The best treatment occurs when the solution is new, of course. I sand
(rather literally) the toner off the copper, so we can certainly say
that the copper is clean. So clean that it often oxidizes due to the
water on it evaporating.

Harvey (the other one...)

>
>Harvey
>On 7/31/2016 9:48 AM, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
>>
>> Thanks, Brad. I watched the NASA video.
>>
>> No, Harvey A., my circuit has no glass diodes, or other components
>> that I know to contain glass.
>>
>> I am glad you mentioned condensation, as I had never thought of
>> it occuring on my circuit board. Having just defrosted my freezer
>> yester
>> day, I know it grows quickly on cold surfaces. Since my circuit con-
>> troller will always be outdoors while in use, I will keep it inside when
>> not in use, so that condensation doesn't happen. Nonetheless, I will
>> inspect the PCB for condensation when the outdoor temperature drops.
>> The only "spray" the box might be subjected to is rain, which is
>> distilled water. The box will be on my screened-in wooden porch. The
>> porch was built with pressure-treated wood many years ago, but for the
>> past several years moss has been growing on the wood, which should
>> tell you how damp it is. (Another project--re-waterproofing the wooden
>> porch.! Will probably need another recommendation for treating that
>> wood too, but email me privately for that.)
>>
>> Okay, copper oxidation won't degrade the circuit's performance.
>>
>> What about tin oxide? Does either Liquid-Tin coating or leaded
>> solder contain tin? If yes, do you think tin oxide will degrade the
>> circuit's
>> performance ? Or is too "self-limiting" and of no consequence?
>>
>> I am not sure what you meant by the "Polyurethane wood polish" you
>> recommend. I am trying to identify a furniture polish containing
>> polyurethane. So far, I am only finding furniture polishes designed
>> for wood furniture that has a top coat of polyurethane, like the one
>> on your local tavern's wooden bar top. I'm not sure whether to look
>> for a furniture polish that was designed to be applied to a
>> polyurethane top coat, or that actually contains polyurethane as
>> listed in the ingredients. Or are they one and the same? As you
>> can tell, I am pretty much ignorant about this product. I am
>> guessing its purpose is to fill in surface scratches on a polyurethane
>> top coat.
>>
>> 73 to all.
>>
>>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-08-01 by Stefan Trethan

RoHS allows 0.1% lead.

I think this Liquid Tin is based on thiourea, something much, much worse than lead. Remember to wash your hands and wear a hardhat or something ;-).

ST

On Sun, Jul 31, 2016 at 9:37 PM, Harvey Altstadter hrconsult@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

This is the problem with the ROHS directive being in absolutes. A mere pinch of lead would do away with the whisker problem in it's entirety.

I am not familiar with the Liquid Tin product, but if it leaves any elemental tin (not oxide), then it can be a source of whiskers. I suspect that this is the same thing that the industry calls immersion tin.  That process is a chemical replacement where the liquid is a tin salt, and the reaction exchanges the copper for tin, leaving elemental tin on the surface, with the copper going into solution as a copper salt. Clean copper quickly oxidizes, making soldering to the board difficult to impossible. The purpose of immersion tin is to keep the surface solderable when the board is not immediately used. It is an identified source of whiskers. http://www.epectec.com/articles/pcb-surface-finish-advantages-and-disadvantages.html

I hope this answers all your questions.

Harvey
On 7/31/2016 9:48 AM, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

Thanks, Brad.   I watched the NASA video.

No, Harvey A., my circuit has no glass diodes, or other components that I know to contain glass.

I am glad you mentioned condensation, as I had never thought of
it occuring on my circuit board.    Having just defrosted my freezer yester
day, I  know it grows quickly on cold surfaces.    Since my circuit con-
troller will always be outdoors while in use, I will keep it inside when
not in use, so that condensation doesn't happen.    Nonetheless, I will inspect the PCB for condensation when the outdoor temperature drops.   The only "spray" the box might be subjected to is rain, which is distilled water.   The box will be on my screened-in wooden porch.  The porch was built with pressure-treated wood many years ago, but for the past several years moss has been growing on the wood, which should tell you how damp it is. (Another project--re-waterproofing the wooden porch.!   Will probably need another recommendation for treating that wood too, but email me privately for that.)

Okay, copper oxidation won't degrade the circuit's performance.

What about tin oxide?   Does either Liquid-Tin coating or leaded
solder contain tin?   If yes, do you think tin oxide will degrade the circuit's
performance ?   Or is too "self-limiting" and of no consequence?

I am not sure what you meant by the "Polyurethane wood polish" you recommend.   I am trying to identify a furniture polish containing polyurethane.   So far, I am only finding furniture polishes designed for wood furniture that has a top coat of polyurethane, like the one on your local tavern's wooden bar top.   I'm not sure whether to look for a furniture polish that was designed to be applied to a polyurethane top coat, or that actually contains polyurethane as listed in the ingredients.   Or are they one and the same?    As you can tell, I am pretty much ignorant about this product.   I am guessing its purpose is to fill in surface scratches on a polyurethane top coat.

73 to all.




Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-08-01 by Harvey White

On Mon, 1 Aug 2016 05:45:53 +0200, you wrote:

>RoHS allows 0.1% lead.
>
>I think this Liquid Tin is based on thiourea, something much, much worse
>than lead. Remember to wash your hands and wear a hardhat or something ;-).

I think it is. It comes with lots of warnings, most of which involve
the word "poison".

I use gloves and tongs, and wash the boards thoroughly. Also, this is
done quite outside the house.

Wonder if I could do something like HASL....


Harvey

>
>ST
>
>On Sun, Jul 31, 2016 at 9:37 PM, Harvey Altstadter hrconsult@...
>[Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> This is the problem with the ROHS directive being in absolutes. A mere
>> pinch of lead would do away with the whisker problem in it's entirety.
>>
>> I am not familiar with the Liquid Tin product, but if it leaves any
>> elemental tin (not oxide), then it can be a source of whiskers. I suspect
>> that this is the same thing that the industry calls immersion tin. That
>> process is a chemical replacement where the liquid is a tin salt, and the
>> reaction exchanges the copper for tin, leaving elemental tin on the
>> surface, with the copper going into solution as a copper salt. Clean copper
>> quickly oxidizes, making soldering to the board difficult to impossible.
>> The purpose of immersion tin is to keep the surface solderable when the
>> board is not immediately used. It is an identified source of whiskers.
>> http://www.epectec.com/articles/pcb-surface-finish-advantages-and-disadvantages.html
>> I hope this answers all your questions.
>>
>> Harvey
>> On 7/31/2016 9:48 AM, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks, Brad. I watched the NASA video.
>>
>> No, Harvey A., my circuit has no glass diodes, or other components that I
>> know to contain glass.
>>
>> I am glad you mentioned condensation, as I had never thought of
>> it occuring on my circuit board. Having just defrosted my freezer yester
>> day, I know it grows quickly on cold surfaces. Since my circuit con-
>> troller will always be outdoors while in use, I will keep it inside when
>> not in use, so that condensation doesn't happen. Nonetheless, I will
>> inspect the PCB for condensation when the outdoor temperature drops. The
>> only "spray" the box might be subjected to is rain, which is distilled
>> water. The box will be on my screened-in wooden porch. The porch was
>> built with pressure-treated wood many years ago, but for the past several
>> years moss has been growing on the wood, which should tell you how damp it
>> is. (Another project--re-waterproofing the wooden porch.! Will probably
>> need another recommendation for treating that wood too, but email me
>> privately for that.)
>>
>> Okay, copper oxidation won't degrade the circuit's performance.
>>
>> What about tin oxide? Does either Liquid-Tin coating or leaded
>> solder contain tin? If yes, do you think tin oxide will degrade the
>> circuit's
>> performance ? Or is too "self-limiting" and of no consequence?
>>
>> I am not sure what you meant by the "Polyurethane wood polish" you
>> recommend. I am trying to identify a furniture polish containing
>> polyurethane. So far, I am only finding furniture polishes designed for
>> wood furniture that has a top coat of polyurethane, like the one on your
>> local tavern's wooden bar top. I'm not sure whether to look for a
>> furniture polish that was designed to be applied to a polyurethane top
>> coat, or that actually contains polyurethane as listed in the
>> ingredients. Or are they one and the same? As you can tell, I am
>> pretty much ignorant about this product. I am guessing its purpose is to
>> fill in surface scratches on a polyurethane top coat.
>>
>> 73 to all.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-08-01 by Harvey Altstadter

Harvey,

The name HASL is appropriate because it is a hassle. It requires special equipment. The boards are first solder dipped, and then passed between hot air knives, where the air is hot enough to reflow the solder. The excess solder is blown off, leaving a thin coating of solder on the board. I suppose that this could be approximated by a hot plate and a heat gun with a flat funnel type adapter on the front. Might work.  This could leave slivers of solder bridging some of the traces.

I my early days in the Aerospace Industry, we would solder coat the boards by solder plating them, and then reflowing the plated solder by floating the boards on hot peanut oil. A rather sloppy process. 

The other Harvey


On 7/31/2016 9:06 PM, Harvey White madyn@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

On Mon, 1 Aug 2016 05:45:53 +0200, you wrote:

>RoHS allows 0.1% lead.
>
>I think this Liquid Tin is based on thiourea, something much, much worse
>than lead. Remember to wash your hands and wear a hardhat or something ;-).

I think it is. It comes with lots of warnings, most of which involve
the word "poison".

I use gloves and tongs, and wash the boards thoroughly. Also, this is
done quite outside the house.

Wonder if I could do something like HASL....

Harvey

>
>ST
>
>On Sun, Jul 31, 2016 at 9:37 PM, Harvey Altstadter hrconsult@...
>[Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> This is the problem with the ROHS directive being in absolutes. A mere
>> pinch of lead would do away with the whisker problem in it's entirety.
>>
>> I am not familiar with the Liquid Tin product, but if it leaves any
>> elemental tin (not oxide), then it can be a source of whiskers. I suspect
>> that this is the same thing that the industry calls immersion tin. That
>> process is a chemical replacement where the liquid is a tin salt, and the
>> reaction exchanges the copper for tin, leaving elemental tin on the
>> surface, with the copper going into solution as a copper salt. Clean copper
>> quickly oxidizes, making soldering to the board difficult to impossible.
>> The purpose of immersion tin is to keep the surface solderable when the
>> board is not immediately used. It is an identified source of whiskers.
>> http://www.epectec.com/articles/pcb-surface-finish-advantages-and-disadvantages.html
>> I hope this answers all your questions.
>>
>> Harvey
>> On 7/31/2016 9:48 AM, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks, Brad. I watched the NASA video.
>>
>> No, Harvey A., my circuit has no glass diodes, or other components that I
>> know to contain glass.
>>
>> I am glad you mentioned condensation, as I had never thought of
>> it occuring on my circuit board. Having just defrosted my freezer yester
>> day, I know it grows quickly on cold surfaces. Since my circuit con-
>> troller will always be outdoors while in use, I will keep it inside when
>> not in use, so that condensation doesn't happen. Nonetheless, I will
>> inspect the PCB for condensation when the outdoor temperature drops. The
>> only "spray" the box might be subjected to is rain, which is distilled
>> water. The box will be on my screened-in wooden porch. The porch was
>> built with pressure-treated wood many years ago, but for the past several
>> years moss has been growing on the wood, which should tell you how damp it
>> is. (Another project--re-waterproofing the wooden porch.! Will probably
>> need another recommendation for treating that wood too, but email me
>> privately for that.)
>>
>> Okay, copper oxidation won't degrade the circuit's performance.
>>
>> What about tin oxide? Does either Liquid-Tin coating or leaded
>> solder contain tin? If yes, do you think tin oxide will degrade the
>> circuit's
>> performance ? Or is too "self-limiting" and of no consequence?
>>
>> I am not sure what you meant by the "Polyurethane wood polish" you
>> recommend. I am trying to identify a furniture polish containing
>> polyurethane. So far, I am only finding furniture polishes designed for
>> wood furniture that has a top coat of polyurethane, like the one on your
>> local tavern's wooden bar top. I'm not sure whether to look for a
>> furniture polish that was designed to be applied to a polyurethane top
>> coat, or that actually contains polyurethane as listed in the
>> ingredients. Or are they one and the same? As you can tell, I am
>> pretty much ignorant about this product. I am guessing its purpose is to
>> fill in surface scratches on a polyurethane top coat.
>>
>> 73 to all.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-08-01 by Stefan Trethan

There you go again, poisoning the squirrels.

I did something much like HASL when I still made boards, what you can
do is you buy a can of plumbing solder paste (the solder bearing
kind). This is tin only solder so you don't need to worry about the
waste, and it's much cheaper than SMT solder paste for electronics.
Then you dilute it to a consistency you can paint with a brush, just
with water. Paint that on your board, heat with air gun to reflow. The
excess on bare surfaces just washes off.
This leaves a pock-marked matte surface, if you want it smooth and
shiny you can wipe off the excess with a paper towel while still hot.
Does the same as air leveling but much more practical at home.
Mind to wash the flux off well, since it is not electronics flux. It
is water soluble since it is designed for plumbing and hot water takes
it right off.

I briefly considered building a roller tinning machine, basically two
rollers between which the PCB is fed, with the lower out of metal and
immersed in a solder bath at the bottom. The whole thing is heated and
you just feed the board through. I was told it works fine but keeping
the solder bath free of dross is a bit of a pain, requiring special
flux. You can find pictures with google, they are used commercially.

That said, the vast majority of boards I simply coated in colophony
resin (rosin) flux. This is so mild it doesn't cause corrosion, and
with denatured alcohol (ethanol) it can be made into a nice laquer.
Since it is a flux it is great to solder and protects the copper from
oxidation for a long time. They even make a spray can so you don't
need to mess with the sticky paintbrush.

ST

On Mon, Aug 1, 2016 at 6:06 AM, Harvey White madyn@...
[Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 1 Aug 2016 05:45:53 +0200, you wrote:
>
>>RoHS allows 0.1% lead.
>>
>>I think this Liquid Tin is based on thiourea, something much, much worse
>>than lead. Remember to wash your hands and wear a hardhat or something ;-).
>
> I think it is. It comes with lots of warnings, most of which involve
> the word "poison".
>
> I use gloves and tongs, and wash the boards thoroughly. Also, this is
> done quite outside the house.
>
> Wonder if I could do something like HASL....
>
>
> Harvey
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-08-01 by Harvey White

On Mon, 1 Aug 2016 06:50:27 +0200, you wrote:

>There you go again, poisoning the squirrels.
>
>I did something much like HASL when I still made boards, what you can
>do is you buy a can of plumbing solder paste (the solder bearing
>kind). This is tin only solder so you don't need to worry about the
>waste, and it's much cheaper than SMT solder paste for electronics.
>Then you dilute it to a consistency you can paint with a brush, just
>with water. Paint that on your board, heat with air gun to reflow. The
>excess on bare surfaces just washes off.
>This leaves a pock-marked matte surface, if you want it smooth and
>shiny you can wipe off the excess with a paper towel while still hot.
>Does the same as air leveling but much more practical at home.
>Mind to wash the flux off well, since it is not electronics flux. It
>is water soluble since it is designed for plumbing and hot water takes
>it right off.

I may try this, it seems lots better than immersion tin. Right now,
I'm in a software phase of development, much cheaper than making
boards. Some boards are at the production phase, so I've got a design
that works, I'll just possibly need more of them.

>
>I briefly considered building a roller tinning machine, basically two
>rollers between which the PCB is fed, with the lower out of metal and
>immersed in a solder bath at the bottom. The whole thing is heated and
>you just feed the board through. I was told it works fine but keeping
>the solder bath free of dross is a bit of a pain, requiring special
>flux. You can find pictures with google, they are used commercially.

Before I did something like that, (unlikely), I'd try to make a
etchant system with a pump for more even etching. May end up with a
peristaltic pump and silicone tubing.
>
>That said, the vast majority of boards I simply coated in colophony
>resin (rosin) flux. This is so mild it doesn't cause corrosion, and
>with denatured alcohol (ethanol) it can be made into a nice laquer.
>Since it is a flux it is great to solder and protects the copper from
>oxidation for a long time. They even make a spray can so you don't
>need to mess with the sticky paintbrush.
>

Now that seems to be the simplest one, so that's on the list, too.

Thanks for the suggestions:

Harvey

>ST
>
>On Mon, Aug 1, 2016 at 6:06 AM, Harvey White madyn@...
>[Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>> On Mon, 1 Aug 2016 05:45:53 +0200, you wrote:
>>
>>>RoHS allows 0.1% lead.
>>>
>>>I think this Liquid Tin is based on thiourea, something much, much worse
>>>than lead. Remember to wash your hands and wear a hardhat or something ;-).
>>
>> I think it is. It comes with lots of warnings, most of which involve
>> the word "poison".
>>
>> I use gloves and tongs, and wash the boards thoroughly. Also, this is
>> done quite outside the house.
>>
>> Wonder if I could do something like HASL....
>>
>>
>> Harvey
>>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-08-01 by Stefan Trethan

Air agitation worked quite well for me to move the etchant around. I
think a peristaltic pump has very low flow rate, at least the small
ones I'm familiar with (infusion pumps and the like). Apparently some
of the diaphragm pumps can be converted to no metal parts in the wet
side, not sure if it was sureflow or flowjet brand.
Another option is to make a mechanism to mechanically fan the board
back and forth. This creates a lot of flow even with quite sedate
montion. It avoids the mist generated by air agitation, which pretty
much requires a closed tank unless you work outside again, poisoning
the squirrels and pigeons. But it will lead to faster etching near the
edges, just like air does for the lower edge.

ST

On Mon, Aug 1, 2016 at 4:38 PM, Harvey White madyn@...
[Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 1 Aug 2016 06:50:27 +0200, you wrote:
>
>>There you go again, poisoning the squirrels.
>>
>>I did something much like HASL when I still made boards, what you can
>>do is you buy a can of plumbing solder paste (the solder bearing
>>kind). This is tin only solder so you don't need to worry about the
>>waste, and it's much cheaper than SMT solder paste for electronics.
>>Then you dilute it to a consistency you can paint with a brush, just
>>with water. Paint that on your board, heat with air gun to reflow. The
>>excess on bare surfaces just washes off.
>>This leaves a pock-marked matte surface, if you want it smooth and
>>shiny you can wipe off the excess with a paper towel while still hot.
>>Does the same as air leveling but much more practical at home.
>>Mind to wash the flux off well, since it is not electronics flux. It
>>is water soluble since it is designed for plumbing and hot water takes
>>it right off.
>
> I may try this, it seems lots better than immersion tin. Right now,
> I'm in a software phase of development, much cheaper than making
> boards. Some boards are at the production phase, so I've got a design
> that works, I'll just possibly need more of them.
>
>>
>>I briefly considered building a roller tinning machine, basically two
>>rollers between which the PCB is fed, with the lower out of metal and
>>immersed in a solder bath at the bottom. The whole thing is heated and
>>you just feed the board through. I was told it works fine but keeping
>>the solder bath free of dross is a bit of a pain, requiring special
>>flux. You can find pictures with google, they are used commercially.
>
> Before I did something like that, (unlikely), I'd try to make a
> etchant system with a pump for more even etching. May end up with a
> peristaltic pump and silicone tubing.
>>
>>That said, the vast majority of boards I simply coated in colophony
>>resin (rosin) flux. This is so mild it doesn't cause corrosion, and
>>with denatured alcohol (ethanol) it can be made into a nice laquer.
>>Since it is a flux it is great to solder and protects the copper from
>>oxidation for a long time. They even make a spray can so you don't
>>need to mess with the sticky paintbrush.
>>
>
> Now that seems to be the simplest one, so that's on the list, too.
>
> Thanks for the suggestions:
>
> Harvey
>
>>ST
>>
>>On Mon, Aug 1, 2016 at 6:06 AM, Harvey White madyn@...
>>[Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>>> On Mon, 1 Aug 2016 05:45:53 +0200, you wrote:
>>>
>>>>RoHS allows 0.1% lead.
>>>>
>>>>I think this Liquid Tin is based on thiourea, something much, much worse
>>>>than lead. Remember to wash your hands and wear a hardhat or something ;-).
>>>
>>> I think it is. It comes with lots of warnings, most of which involve
>>> the word "poison".
>>>
>>> I use gloves and tongs, and wash the boards thoroughly. Also, this is
>>> done quite outside the house.
>>>
>>> Wonder if I could do something like HASL....
>>>
>>>
>>> Harvey
>>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
> Posted by: Harvey White <madyn@...>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-08-01 by Harvey White

On Sun, 31 Jul 2016 21:36:09 -0700, you wrote:

>Harvey,
>
>The name HASL is appropriate because it is a hassle. It requires special
>equipment. The boards are first solder dipped, and then passed between
>hot air knives, where the air is hot enough to reflow the solder. The
>excess solder is blown off, leaving a thin coating of solder on the
>board. I suppose that this could be approximated by a hot plate and a
>heat gun with a flat funnel type adapter on the front. Might work. This
>could leave slivers of solder bridging some of the traces.

This might not be a problem when the slivers are near enough the pads
to melt when soldering components. However, I like the idea of wiping
off the melted solder with a pad (or perhaps brass sponge).

I'd be worried about the process overheating the board myself,
especially if the boards do not have plated through holes (and mine
won't).


>
>I my early days in the Aerospace Industry, we would solder coat the
>boards by solder plating them, and then reflowing the plated solder by
>floating the boards on hot peanut oil. A rather sloppy process.

I can only imagine. Not sure how they were done where I used to work,
but from what I remember, they did a resist over the areas to be
etched, then plated the copper on the board, then tin plated the
board. Removing the resist was next, then the boards were etched in
ammonium persulphate which apparently didn't attack the tin plating.

There was no solder mask on these boards, but there could have been
silk screen (don't really remember much if they did or not)

These were mil-spec boards, so there was eventually a conformal
coating, I think. (nasty stuff to deal with).

the other (other) Harvey

>
>The other Harvey
>
>
>On 7/31/2016 9:06 PM, Harvey White madyn@...
>[Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
>>
>> On Mon, 1 Aug 2016 05:45:53 +0200, you wrote:
>>
>> >RoHS allows 0.1% lead.
>> >
>> >I think this Liquid Tin is based on thiourea, something much, much worse
>> >than lead. Remember to wash your hands and wear a hardhat or
>> something ;-).
>>
>> I think it is. It comes with lots of warnings, most of which involve
>> the word "poison".
>>
>> I use gloves and tongs, and wash the boards thoroughly. Also, this is
>> done quite outside the house.
>>
>> Wonder if I could do something like HASL....
>>
>> Harvey
>>
>> >
>> >ST
>> >
>> >On Sun, Jul 31, 2016 at 9:37 PM, Harvey Altstadter hrconsult@...
>> >[Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >>
>> >> This is the problem with the ROHS directive being in absolutes. A mere
>> >> pinch of lead would do away with the whisker problem in it's entirety.
>> >>
>> >> I am not familiar with the Liquid Tin product, but if it leaves any
>> >> elemental tin (not oxide), then it can be a source of whiskers. I
>> suspect
>> >> that this is the same thing that the industry calls immersion tin. That
>> >> process is a chemical replacement where the liquid is a tin salt,
>> and the
>> >> reaction exchanges the copper for tin, leaving elemental tin on the
>> >> surface, with the copper going into solution as a copper salt.
>> Clean copper
>> >> quickly oxidizes, making soldering to the board difficult to
>> impossible.
>> >> The purpose of immersion tin is to keep the surface solderable when the
>> >> board is not immediately used. It is an identified source of whiskers.
>> >>
>> http://www.epectec.com/articles/pcb-surface-finish-advantages-and-disadvantages.html
>> >> I hope this answers all your questions.
>> >>
>> >> Harvey
>> >> On 7/31/2016 9:48 AM, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Thanks, Brad. I watched the NASA video.
>> >>
>> >> No, Harvey A., my circuit has no glass diodes, or other components
>> that I
>> >> know to contain glass.
>> >>
>> >> I am glad you mentioned condensation, as I had never thought of
>> >> it occuring on my circuit board. Having just defrosted my freezer
>> yester
>> >> day, I know it grows quickly on cold surfaces. Since my circuit con-
>> >> troller will always be outdoors while in use, I will keep it inside
>> when
>> >> not in use, so that condensation doesn't happen. Nonetheless, I will
>> >> inspect the PCB for condensation when the outdoor temperature
>> drops. The
>> >> only "spray" the box might be subjected to is rain, which is distilled
>> >> water. The box will be on my screened-in wooden porch. The porch was
>> >> built with pressure-treated wood many years ago, but for the past
>> several
>> >> years moss has been growing on the wood, which should tell you how
>> damp it
>> >> is. (Another project--re-waterproofing the wooden porch.! Will probably
>> >> need another recommendation for treating that wood too, but email me
>> >> privately for that.)
>> >>
>> >> Okay, copper oxidation won't degrade the circuit's performance.
>> >>
>> >> What about tin oxide? Does either Liquid-Tin coating or leaded
>> >> solder contain tin? If yes, do you think tin oxide will degrade the
>> >> circuit's
>> >> performance ? Or is too "self-limiting" and of no consequence?
>> >>
>> >> I am not sure what you meant by the "Polyurethane wood polish" you
>> >> recommend. I am trying to identify a furniture polish containing
>> >> polyurethane. So far, I am only finding furniture polishes designed for
>> >> wood furniture that has a top coat of polyurethane, like the one on
>> your
>> >> local tavern's wooden bar top. I'm not sure whether to look for a
>> >> furniture polish that was designed to be applied to a polyurethane top
>> >> coat, or that actually contains polyurethane as listed in the
>> >> ingredients. Or are they one and the same? As you can tell, I am
>> >> pretty much ignorant about this product. I am guessing its purpose
>> is to
>> >> fill in surface scratches on a polyurethane top coat.
>> >>
>> >> 73 to all.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>>
>>

Re: Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-08-01 by Paul Alciatore

I find it hard to follow the complete threads here so forgive me if I
am repeating something.

If the question was how to prevent copper boards from oxidizing, you
can coat them with a layer of electronic style soldering flux. Some
PCB manufacturers supply bare boards that way: there is no corrosion
on them and they take solder very readily. This type of flux has no
acid and can be left on the boards after assembly. I have seen boards
with 20 year old flux on them and there was no sign of any problems from it.

Of course, tin plating looks nicer. You can also solder plate them.
This has been done with a combination of chemical plating with the
individual metals and then heating them to melt them together into a
solder alloy.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-08-02 by Stefan Trethan

I always wanted to make some kind of heated metal paintbrush, but
never got around to it.
It must be heated to avoid the danger of lifting small traces if they
stick to a cold brush.
What does not work is to use a piece of copper sheet as a wiper,
because the surfaces aren't sufficiently flat and it won't make full
contact.

For small boards and one-offs, you can just tin them with a soldering
iron in much less time than this discussion took.

I don't think overheating is a problem if you compare it to reflow soldering.

ST


On Mon, Aug 1, 2016 at 6:11 PM, Harvey White madyn@...
[Homebrew_PCBs]
> However, I like the idea of wiping
> off the melted solder with a pad (or perhaps brass sponge).
>
> I'd be worried about the process overheating the board myself,
> especially if the boards do not have plated through holes (and mine
> won't).
>

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-08-03 by Tony Smith

> a result of that. We might never know just how much damage Thomas
> Midgley actually did. Some of the damage is only apparent decades later (as
> with asbestos), and some is never discovered.


We need to build a giant statue of that dude, and let the pigeons crap all over it before we poison them.

Then throw the dead pigeons at the statue.

Tony

(Ol' Tom's other great contribution to the planet was stuffing the ozone layer.)

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-08-03 by Stefan Trethan

To be fair to Mr. Midgley Jr., at least he did not use arsenic instead
of lead, which according to his experiments also worked to eliminate
knocking. ;-)

On a more serious note, you have to look at his inventions while
keeping in mind what was known at the time. He was one of those people
that just got the job done, even if the task was considered
impossible, and no matter how many skills he had to learn in the
process.

He invented leaded petrol to give the allied war planes an edge, by
allowing more compression and more power. That was his task, he
delivered a solution in time for WW2. Don't forget nobody considered
lead dangerous then.

As for CFCs, he was faced with the task of finding a safer refrigerant
that wouldn't kill everyone in the house if the freezer leaked, again
he delivered. Nobody knew about this ozone layer thing back then.

Read Charles Kettering's memoir and tell me you wouldn't have loved to
work with the guy. One time, when he got metal splinters in his eye
from an exploding tank, and the doctor couldn't get them out, he
successfully dissolved them by bathing his eye in mercury. I mean who
has an idea like that?

But there must have been a darker side to the man, one Kettering
didn't touch on. When the workers got ill at the TEL plant and he held
that stunt press conference, he must have known this was unsafe. He
sure knew afterwards since he was sick as a dog from the lead
poisoning, but I don't think he did anything to set the record
straight.

I've always been suspicious about his accidental death. A smart man,
getting tangled up in his own ropes like that, not sure if I buy it.
Perhaps he was just tired of it all.

ST

On Wed, Aug 3, 2016 at 11:06 AM, 'Tony Smith' ajsmith1968@...
[Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>> a result of that. We might never know just how much damage Thomas
>> Midgley actually did. Some of the damage is only apparent decades later (as
>> with asbestos), and some is never discovered.
>
>
> We need to build a giant statue of that dude, and let the pigeons crap all over it before we poison them.
>
> Then throw the dead pigeons at the statue.
>
> Tony
>
> (Ol' Tom's other great contribution to the planet was stuffing the ozone layer.)
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-08-03 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg

What I like about this group is I regularly learn something new, or something more about something I knew a little of..

Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 8/3/16, Stefan Trethan stefan_trethan@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, August 3, 2016, 5:36 PM


 









To be fair to Mr. Midgley Jr., at least he did not
use arsenic instead

of lead, which according to his experiments also worked to
eliminate

knocking. ;-)



On a more serious note, you have to look at his inventions
while

keeping in mind what was known at the time. He was one of
those people

that just got the job done, even if the task was
considered

impossible, and no matter how many skills he had to learn in
the

process.



He invented leaded petrol to give the allied war planes an
edge, by

allowing more compression and more power. That was his task,
he

delivered a solution in time for WW2. Don't forget
nobody considered

lead dangerous then.



As for CFCs, he was faced with the task of finding a safer
refrigerant

that wouldn't kill everyone in the house if the freezer
leaked, again

he delivered. Nobody knew about this ozone layer thing back
then.



Read Charles Kettering's memoir and tell me you
wouldn't have loved to

work with the guy. One time, when he got metal splinters in
his eye

from an exploding tank, and the doctor couldn't get them
out, he

successfully dissolved them by bathing his eye in mercury. I
mean who

has an idea like that?



But there must have been a darker side to the man, one
Kettering

didn't touch on. When the workers got ill at the TEL
plant and he held

that stunt press conference, he must have known this was
unsafe. He

sure knew afterwards since he was sick as a dog from the
lead

poisoning, but I don't think he did anything to set the
record

straight.



I've always been suspicious about his accidental death.
A smart man,

getting tangled up in his own ropes like that, not sure if I
buy it.

Perhaps he was just tired of it all.



ST



On Wed, Aug 3, 2016 at 11:06 AM, 'Tony Smith'
ajsmith1968@...

[Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:

>> a result of that. We might never know just how much
damage Thomas

>> Midgley actually did. Some of the damage is only
apparent decades later (as

>> with asbestos), and some is never discovered.

>

>

> We need to build a giant statue of that dude, and let
the pigeons crap all over it before we poison them.

>

> Then throw the dead pigeons at the statue.

>

> Tony

>

> (Ol' Tom's other great contribution to the
planet was stuffing the ozone layer.)

>











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RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-08-04 by Tony Smith

> What I like about this group is I regularly learn something new, or something
> more about something I knew a little of..
>
> Malcolm


Have a read up on Clair Patterson (a bloke, not a woman) who first figured out maybe lead in everything wasn't such a good idea. That started when he was a university, and one day his professor told him to go off and figure out how old the world was. "Piece of cake, what you do is..."

While I agree with Stefan that Tom's inventions were mostly "well, it seemed like a good idea at the time", I still think he needs a statue for the pigeons to crap on. Make it out of asbestos or something.

Tony

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-08-04 by Stefan Trethan

Will do, thanks.
There are so many interesting engineers and scientists out there that
shaped our world, and yet when I was at school all we learned about
were long dead kings that apparently did nothing but order wars.
You'd think they'd teach young engineers about those people they can
identify with, but I guess that's too much to ask when your gym
teacher also does history, and has the intelligence of a true
sportsman.

ST

On Thu, Aug 4, 2016 at 3:16 PM, 'Tony Smith' ajsmith1968@...
[Homebrew_PCBs]
> Have a read up on Clair Patterson (a bloke, not a woman) who first figured out maybe lead in everything wasn't such a good idea. That started when he was a university, and one day his professor told him to go off and figure out how old the world was. "Piece of cake, what you do is..."
>

Technical History (Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors)

2016-08-05 by hitekgearhead@...

When I was in college, I of course, like everyone else had to take history classes.

I share the same sentiment with you on the subject.

I had a history teacher that was only interested in the dates documents were signed and by whom.

As a young engineering student I thought it would be amazingly inspiring to offer those students in the technical disciplines a "technical history" class.

I would have been much more inspired by learning about Tesla, Edison, Ford, Marconi, Einstein, Fermi, etc, etc, etc. It would have brought so much more life to the pages of integrals and matrices that we were learning about in our physics and electronics classes.

-Albert 

Re: Technical History (Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors)

2016-08-07 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg

Albert

What you suggested comes from the free thinker that is you. Unfortunately most teachers aren't free thinkers, just trained Parrots, regurgitating the same thing year after year. You are lucky to be one of those that maintained your ability to continue free thinking, as most education systems suppress it.
There is a saying " Those who can Do, those who can't teach" From George Bernard Shaw

There are a few exceptions, they are the inspirational teachers.

Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

--------------------------------------------
On Fri, 8/5/16, hitekgearhead@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Technical History (Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors)
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, August 5, 2016, 2:08 PM


 









When I was in college, I of course, like everyone
else had to take history classes.

I share the same sentiment with you on the
subject.

I had a history
teacher that was only interested in the dates documents were
signed and by whom.

As a
young engineering student I thought it would be amazingly
inspiring to offer those students in the technical
disciplines a "technical history" class.

I would have been much more
inspired by learning about Tesla, Edison, Ford, Marconi,
Einstein, Fermi, etc, etc, etc. It would have brought so
much more life to the pages of integrals and matrices that
we were learning about in our physics and electronics
classes.

-Albert 









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Re: Preventing oxidation of copper outdoors

2016-08-09 by goofy_36@...

That's one thing I liked about where I went to college.  Almost all of the professors had previous careers in industry or business, then went into teaching. So they could do as well as teach.

David