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Soldering to my new PCBs

Soldering to my new PCBs

2016-07-20 by Brad

Hi there,

 

So I am starting work on the first small component of my TVT replica – and I’m having a bit of trouble with soldering.  I’ve soldered a fair bit before, but usually on commercial boards where I had to remove a chip and then replace.  My usual soldering process is to use the tip of the iron to heat the pad and then bring the solder to it.  However that doesn’t seem to work as well with these new boards.. I get more solder than I like and it doesn’t spread out nicely on the pad/contact.  Am I missing a step here somewhere?

 

Brad

 

 

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Soldering to my new PCBs

2016-07-20 by Rich Osman

On 7/20/2016 3:40 PM, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

Hi there,

 

So I am starting work on the first small component of my TVT replica – and I’m having a bit of trouble with soldering.  I’ve soldered a fair bit before, but usually on commercial boards where I had to remove a chip and then replace.  My usual soldering process is to use the tip of the iron to heat the pad and then bring the solder to it.  However that doesn’t seem to work as well with these new boards.. I get more solder than I like and it doesn’t spread out nicely on the pad/contact.  Am I missing a step here somewhere?

 

Brad

 

 

What kind of finish is on your 'new' boards. Is it bare copper?  What kind of solder?  Tin/Lead or lead free?

Sounds like you are not getting adequate 'wetting.'

Lead free solders tend to not be as good at wetting the pad as Tin/Lead.  Tinning the pads or using something like Tinnit can help.  As can the use of a high solids rosin flux.  

-- 
mailto:lists@...     http://www.n1oz.net       ARS: N1OZ
Rich Osman;  POB 93167; Southlake, TX 76092 (Near DFW Airport)

Re: Soldering to my new PCBs

2016-07-20 by duwaynes@...

I treat my boards with liquid tin before I solder them.  Polish the copper with a scotch brite pad and let it set in the solution for about a minute. Then clean the board in water, dry and give it a thin coat of Kyrlon clear lacquer.  This keeps it from oxidizing and is very easy to solder through.  For surface mount devices the Krylon also works somewhat like a solder mask.  I get the liquid tin from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-421-Liquid-Bottle/dp/B005T8PE4A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469047958&sr=8-1&keywords=liquid+tin
DuWayne
kv4qb.blogspot.com

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Soldering to my new PCBs

2016-07-20 by Brad

Thanks guys.

 

Yeah, I’m limited here because the original boards were not tinned, so I’m trying to keep to stock appearance.  Maybe this flux aerosol will seal it.  It’s not that I can’t make it work.. it’s just.. difficult and tedious, and too much solder comes off in the process.

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2016 2:09 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Soldering to my new PCBs

 

 

In article <144e01d1e2c6$f7d4b790$e77e26b0$@...>,
'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
<Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

> Am I missing a step here somewhere?

Flux.

Give your board a good coating of flux. The aerosols of "re-work" flux
usually work well.

--
Stuart Winsor

Tools With A Mission
sending tools across the world
http://www.twam.co.uk/

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Soldering to my new PCBs

2016-07-20 by Rich Osman

Leaded solder and flux.  Lots of rosin based flux.

On 7/20/2016 4:21 PM, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

Thanks guys.

 

Yeah, I’m limited here because the original boards were not tinned, so I’m trying to keep to stock appearance.  Maybe this flux aerosol will seal it.  It’s not that I can’t make it work.. it’s just.. difficult and tedious, and too much solder comes off in the process.



-- 
mailto:lists@...     http://www.n1oz.net       ARS: N1OZ
Rich Osman;  POB 93167; Southlake, TX 76092 (Near DFW Airport)

Re: Soldering to my new PCBs

2016-07-21 by Howard Chester

Brad unclefalter posted'-

>So I am starting work on the first small component of my TVT replica – and I’m having a bit of trouble with soldering.  I’ve soldered a fair bit before, but >usually on commercial boards where I had to remove a chip and then replace.  My usual soldering process is to use the tip of the iron to heat the pad >and then bring the solder to it.  However that doesn’t seem to work as well with these new boards.. I get more solder than I like and it doesn’t spread >out nicely on the pad/contact.  Am I missing a step here somewhere?

 

Brad


Hello Brad,
First step, get hold of a spray can of "no clean"solder flux. Spray a small amount on a saucer(a shot glass is ideal).Use a q tip (earbud), and wipe a small amount on the pads before soldering. This should help with the flow problem.
Secondly, buy a spare tip for your soldering iron with the smallest tip size. File a small flat on the tip and apply a cheap rosin core solder(get some from a general store, the small tube is ideal) to the tip repeatabely until a "dimple" develops. Clean and use only when required with your usual solder.
Finally, get a roll of the smallest gauge of solder as you feel comfotable with. Coat the "dimpled" tip with with enough solder to fill the dimple, transfer to the flux coated pads. Now use a "fine" de-solrering braid to clean up any excess solder. Done!


Hope this helps, chester

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Soldering to my new PCBs

2016-07-21 by Dave Wade

When soldering to bare copper, I have found a small fibreglass brush is a good way to clean the surface:-

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301577334406

 

before soldering, and a flux pen like this (I usually by them at Ham Fests )

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191554962904

 

also make sure the leads are clean as well…

 

Dave

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: 20 July 2016 22:22
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Soldering to my new PCBs

 




Thanks guys.

 

Yeah, I’m limited here because the original boards were not tinned, so I’m trying to keep to stock appearance.  Maybe this flux aerosol will seal it.  It’s not that I can’t make it work.. it’s just.. difficult and tedious, and too much solder comes off in the process.

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2016 2:09 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Soldering to my new PCBs

 

 

In article <144e01d1e2c6$f7d4b790$e77e26b0$@...>,
'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
<Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

> Am I missing a step here somewhere?

Flux.

Give your board a good coating of flux. The aerosols of "re-work" flux
usually work well.

--
Stuart Winsor

Tools With A Mission
sending tools across the world
http://www.twam.co.uk/

 




Re: Soldering to my new PCBs

2016-07-21 by Paul Alciatore

Bare copper boards?

Scotchbrite first. You can get it in various grits (McMaster): I
would use a fine one.
Then wipe on a coat of flux.
Then solder.

If you want, you can put a drop of solder on the tip of the iron and
drag it along the traces. That will tin them nicely.

Flux remover after the soldering is done for a better appearance. Be
careful with it around mechanical components like switches and
relays. If the flux gets inside them it is hard to get out. (Ask me how I know.)