How to cut circuit boards?
2003-12-20 by javaguy11111
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2003-12-20 by javaguy11111
2003-12-20 by Markus Zingg
>Any suggestions on cutting circuit boards. I have used a bandsaw, butI use the bench circular saw KS 115 from Proxxon with the diamond
>it tends to be slow, dusty and inaccurate. I have tried paper shears,
>but the board tends to get warped and is only good for about two
>inches and it is too hard to cut any further.
>
>I have seen a few references to using a diamond tile saw. They have
>wet tile saws with a diamond blade at home depot for $88 but it seems
>that the blade would get gummed up with epoxy and not cut.
2003-12-20 by Stefan Trethan
> Any suggestions on cutting circuit boards. I have used a bandsaw, but
> it tends to be slow, dusty and inaccurate. I have tried paper shears,
> but the board tends to get warped and is only good for about two
> inches and it is too hard to cut any further.
>
> I have seen a few references to using a diamond tile saw. They have
> wet tile saws with a diamond blade at home depot for $88 but it seems
> that the blade would get gummed up with epoxy and not cut.
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
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>
>
>
>
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>
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>
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>
2003-12-20 by Stefan Trethan
> I use the bench circular saw KS 115 from Proxxon with the diamond
> blade NO 28 012 with good sucess. This little saw is having an adaptor
> to connect a vacum cleaner to it and by doing so dust and dirt remains
> within limits. The saw is definately not made to cut 50 boards a day
> but should do fine for hobby use. The saw is not that expensive. A
> little web search showed that it's aparently ~$130. The diamod blade
> is a bit pricey ($35) but definately worth it.
>
> www.proxxon.com
>
> HTH
>
> Markus
>
2003-12-20 by Ben H. Lanmon
> Any suggestions on cutting circuit boards. I have used a bandsaw,but
> it tends to be slow, dusty and inaccurate. I have tried papershears,
> but the board tends to get warped and is only good for about twohave
> inches and it is too hard to cut any further.
>
> I have seen a few references to using a diamond tile saw. They
> wet tile saws with a diamond blade at home depot for $88 but itseems
> that the blade would get gummed up with epoxy and not cut.I use a Craftsman Table saw with Diamond blade, and vacumn attached,
2003-12-20 by Markus Zingg
>@markus:yes
>
>Do you have the 220V version?
>the saw i bought (at ebay for 30eur with carbide blade and two other bladesWell, mine is also not the strongest, but for the kind of boards I
>;-) )
>is the old 12-18V version.
>The damn thing had no power at all.
>The cuts were very perfect but i kept turning up the voltage until thereHmm, I haven't disasembled it yet so I don't know.
>was only smoke left of
>the motor....
>It has gears between the motor and the blade shaft.
>Does your version already have the toothed belt?
>I plan building my own saw now, with a more powerful motor of course.So far no need for this on my end yet. That said I'm still busy enough
2003-12-20 by Stefan Trethan
On Sun, 21 Dec 2003 00:04:43 +0100, Markus Zingg <m.zingg@...> wrote:
> Hi Stefan
>
>> @markus:
>>
>> Do you have the 220V version?
>
> yes
>
>> the saw i bought (at ebay for 30eur with carbide blade and two other
>> blades ;-) )
>> is the old 12-18V version.
>> The damn thing had no power at all.
>
> Well, mine is also not the strongest, but for the kind of boards I
> make it's sufficient. I bought fairly huge copper clad material from
> Bungard which I cut with this saw. Works fine if you take some time
> and don't get impatient. Since I use ~60 boards a year that's no
> problem for me. I figure those doing fewer boards will find the saw
> quite handy.
>
>> The cuts were very perfect but i kept turning up the voltage until there
>> was only smoke left of
>> the motor....
>> It has gears between the motor and the blade shaft.
>> Does your version already have the toothed belt?
>
> Hmm, I haven't disasembled it yet so I don't know.
>
>> I plan building my own saw now, with a more powerful motor of course.
>
> So far no need for this on my end yet. That said I'm still busy enough
> with my other projects :-))
>
> Markus
>
2003-12-20 by Alan King
> Any suggestions on cutting circuit boards. I have used a bandsaw, butDremel, really requires the flex shaft to do it so the handle can be
> it tends to be slow, dusty and inaccurate. I have tried paper shears,
> but the board tends to get warped and is only good for about two
> inches and it is too hard to cut any further.
>
2003-12-20 by Stefan Trethan
On Sat, 20 Dec 2003 18:35:11 -0500, Alan King <alan@...> wrote:
> javaguy11111 wrote:
>> Any suggestions on cutting circuit boards. I have used a bandsaw, but
>> it tends to be slow, dusty and inaccurate. I have tried paper shears,
>> but the board tends to get warped and is only good for about two
>> inches and it is too hard to cut any further.
>>
>
> Dremel, really requires the flex shaft to do it so the handle can be
> within the diameter of the cutoff disc. Use the THINNEST discs, they
> will break a bit more often but are cheap and cut faster due to less
> material removal with the same power from the tool. Actually use the
> cheap $20 hand tool from Walmart, it's amazingly high quality for the
> price and will also take the dremel flex shaft.
>
> Get two of the high quality drawer slides from Lowes ($15 or less).
> Remove the outer 3rd section and just use the inner more bearinged two
> sections for less play, requires drilling holes in the middle piece for
> mounting though. Mount a piece of wood between the rails, and tool to
> the wood with hose clamps. Align accurately so that the rest of the disc
> travels exactly through the slot the edge cuts and the discs will last
> longer than you'd think. Set it up so you can mount the boards securely,
> and have the tool travel on the rails and slice the board. Then, build a
> simple stepper motor controller and attach a 1/4"-20 threaded rod to the
> shaft, a coupling nut to the board, and set it up to travel automatically
> at a reasonably slow rate. Adjust speed to have a reasonable rate
> without too much loading on the tool.
>
> Coat hanger wire. Build a box frame around the whole cutting area, but
> not the dremel motor. Point the wire ends in so they don't cut the bag.
> Wrap a garbage bag around the frame with the sliding tool plate moving
> along a slit in the bag. Knock your boards off before removing, and
> throw the bag away now and then to get rid of the dust. A design that
> keeps the rails and the flex shaft handle (bearings) outside the bag will
> be best. Helps if you hunt down some good clear bags, although you can
> flip the front up when loading a board easily enough. Small slits in the
> bag don't let out too much dust, one on the other side will let you get a
> hand and screwdriver in for changing the wheel etc.
>
> Note that this can be scaled up to more drill sized cutoff wheels and
> motor systems. But you still want to seperate the boards not grind a
> bunch of fiberglass dust, so the thinnest wheel you can use will be the
> best. Anything more is just wasting grinding wheel money and making more
> dust.
>
> Actually just thinking more about it, some spring snap clips like the
> ones to hold tool handles on the wall but small enough to hold the flex
> shaft may be good enough to let you pop the handle in and out so it's not
> tied to the machine. If not that some other quick removal system would
> be a good idea, no sense having a dremel and flex sitting around for a
> single purpose if not necessary.
>
> Maybe $80 or so if you have to buy the tool and flex which will come in
> handy anyway. Only does straight cuts but could be modified for more,
> and worth it if you do more than a few boards.
>
> Alan
>
2003-12-21 by Alan King
> Alan, no offence, but has it ever appeared to you you might be a littleAlmost everyone even remotely normal sees people in my range of
> crazy? ;-)
>Not at all. It SEEMS that way until you've made one, because the
> Don't you think the automated feed is a bit of overkill....?
>Actually I mount the flex shaft horizontally on my homemade CNC and
> Do you really cut boards yourself this way?
> Don't misunderstand me - your plan is interesting and all, but somehow it
> sounds like some "nutty professor machine".
2003-12-21 by JanRwl@AOL.COM
2003-12-21 by Jan Kok
2003-12-21 by grantfair2001
> Any suggestions on cutting circuit boards.
2003-12-21 by Russell Shaw
> I use tinsnips. They work extremely well and leave a cleanly cut edge.Problem with snips is that they can warp the pcb (expecially thinner stuff),
> You use then like scissors. Tin snip jaws have flat faces which move
> face-to-face. You can snip, open, push snips ahead and keep part of
> the cut PCB edge aligned with one snip face, and get a straight cut.
>
> If you take a look at tin snips, they are really a shear with handles.
>
> I also use a shear which is part of a small sheet metal brake. But the
> snips work very well, and can be had for a modest sum. I saw a pair of
> decent looking Chinese made snips recently for $10 Can. I use a pair
> of US made snips about 30 years old, and have been cutting PCB with
> them for 20 years plus. I sharpen them occasionally by cutting up some
> sandpaper.
>
> If you have snips, its easy to try this.
2003-12-21 by Markus Zingg
>If it is the version with gears you should hear that quite distinctly.Sounds more like a belt version then.
>the gears are (were) louder than the motor on my saw.
>But i think since they use 220V motors they also use the belt version.
>But to the topic again:Well, I do not asume the cut's have to be smoth as a baby face :-) so,
>
>You said you use the diamond blade.
>How rough/smooth is your cut?
>When i used the diamond padsaw blade the cut was quite rough.
>With the carbide blade the cut is almost like polished surface, nice sqare
>and all.
>I assume you too never tried one of the carbide equipped carpenters bladeNo, but I heard that's a good option also.
>in a big table saw?
2003-12-21 by Stefan Trethan
> I use tinsnips. They work extremely well and leave a cleanly cut edge.PLEASE describe how you sharpen them by cutting up sandpaper!
> You use then like scissors. Tin snip jaws have flat faces which move
> face-to-face. You can snip, open, push snips ahead and keep part of
> the cut PCB edge aligned with one snip face, and get a straight cut.
>
> If you take a look at tin snips, they are really a shear with handles.
>
> I also use a shear which is part of a small sheet metal brake. But the
> snips work very well, and can be had for a modest sum. I saw a pair of
> decent looking Chinese made snips recently for $10 Can. I use a pair
> of US made snips about 30 years old, and have been cutting PCB with
> them for 20 years plus. I sharpen them occasionally by cutting up some
> sandpaper.
>
> If you have snips, its easy to try this.
>
> Grant
2003-12-21 by Alan King
2003-12-21 by Stefan Trethan
On Sun, 21 Dec 2003 06:40:33 -0500, Alan King <alan@...> wrote:
> Oh yeah thought of it before but almost forgot to mention power nibblers.
> No dust and no problems, really one of the best possible tools for the
> job.
>
> http://www.appealingtools.com/northern-industrial-tools-professional-
> power-nibbler,-model-atni904aba.html
>
>
> Funny how power nibbler in Google only gets three hits, but in the image
> search you get many..
>
> http://www.ares-
> server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=81556
>
> http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-
> 8&safe=off&q=power+nibbler&sa=N&tab=wi
>
>
> The one at MicroMark isn't the cheapest since it's electric, but it seems
> to cut a relatively narrow line.
>
> Alan
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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>
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>
>
>
2003-12-21 by roel_cnc
2003-12-21 by grantfair2001
>dulling
> PLEASE describe how you sharpen them by cutting up sandpaper!
> i never heard of that.
> Cutting sandpaper with any kind of scissors seems to me more like
> them.
>
> ST
2003-12-21 by Leon Heller
----- Original Message -----
From: "grantfair2001" <grant.fair@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2003 7:52 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: How to cut circuit boards?
> I just cut fine or very fine sandpaper with the snips, as if they were
> scissors. I only make a few cuts each sharpening.
>
> I read long ago that this was a good way to sharpen scissors, and it
> works for that too. Why it works, I don't know. But it does the trick.
My mother used to sharpen scissors that way, 50 years ago. I've always been
doubtful about it.
Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
Email: aqzf13@...
My low-cost Philips LPC210x ARM development system:
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller/lpc2104.html
2003-12-21 by Stefan Trethan
>Be sure that i try it with the next dull scissors i find.
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "grantfair2001"
> <grant.fair@...>
> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2003 7:52 PM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: How to cut circuit boards?
>
>
>> I just cut fine or very fine sandpaper with the snips, as if they were
>> scissors. I only make a few cuts each sharpening.
>>
>> I read long ago that this was a good way to sharpen scissors, and it
>> works for that too. Why it works, I don't know. But it does the trick.
>
> My mother used to sharpen scissors that way, 50 years ago. I've always
> been
> doubtful about it.
>
> Leon
> --
> Leon Heller, G1HSM
> SHARPENING DULL SCISSORS - Tear off three pieces of aluminum foil, put<http://recipecircus.com/recipes/carnation037/TipsCleaning/Sharpening_Scissors.html>
> them on top of each other, then cut the layered foil at least a >dozen
> times with your dull pair of scissors. Cut a regular piece of paper and
> see if the scissors are sharp enough. If not, repeat the >procedure. You
> can also sharpen dull scissors by using the dull scissors to cut a sheet
> of fine sandpaper several times. These >procedures are not recommended
> for a good pair of sewing shears.
2003-12-21 by stan_katz
> Any suggestions on cutting circuit boards. I have used a bandsaw,but
> it tends to be slow, dusty and inaccurate. I have tried papershears,
> but the board tends to get warped and is only good for about twoseems
> inches and it is too hard to cut any further.
>
> I have seen a few references to using a diamond tile saw. They have
> wet tile saws with a diamond blade at home depot for $88 but it
> that the blade would get gummed up with epoxy and not cut.I use a machine shop sheet metal shear that I picked up used for $75
2003-12-21 by Alan King
> It's really rather hard to believe that this works..Well guys you can see it might work, think about the paper seperating
>
2003-12-21 by Stefan Trethan
> Stefan Trethan wrote:That's similar to what i think....
>
>> It's really rather hard to believe that this works..
>>
>
>
> Well guys you can see it might work, think about the paper seperating and
> sliding out slightly when cut. That'll be moving out slightly along the
> face of the edge removing material, should work although only sharpening
> one side until flipping unless the very edge surface of the other side of
> the paper is enough to do it. Seems like it'd be marginal vs just using
> a can opener sharpener unless you just keep fine sandpaper with the
> scissors to keep them topped off. With little pressure elsewhere it
> doesn't seem like it'd remove much except just at the edge, you'd still
> need to sharpen in a different manner once in a while.
> Generally mine are pretty far gone before I even think to sharpen them,
> I'd be cutting sandpaper for hours I think.
>
> Alan
>
>
2003-12-22 by dangermouse
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stefan Trethan" <stefan_trethan@...>
To: <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2003 4:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Sharpening scissors with sandpaper ???
> On Sun, 21 Dec 2003 21:06:50 -0000, Leon Heller <leon_heller@...>
> wrote:
>
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "grantfair2001"
> > <grant.fair@...>
> > To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2003 7:52 PM
> > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: How to cut circuit boards?
> >
> >
> >> I just cut fine or very fine sandpaper with the snips, as if they were
> >> scissors. I only make a few cuts each sharpening.
> >>
> >> I read long ago that this was a good way to sharpen scissors, and it
> >> works for that too. Why it works, I don't know. But it does the trick.
> >
> > My mother used to sharpen scissors that way, 50 years ago. I've always
> > been
> > doubtful about it.
> >
> > Leon
> > --
> > Leon Heller, G1HSM
>
> Be sure that i try it with the next dull scissors i find.
> (no point in "sharpening" sharp scissors this way ;-) ).
> I can sharpen them the conventional way if the attempt fails...
>
> It's really rather hard to believe that this works..
>
> > SHARPENING DULL SCISSORS - Tear off three pieces of aluminum foil, put
> > them on top of each other, then cut the layered foil at least a >dozen
> > times with your dull pair of scissors. Cut a regular piece of paper and
> > see if the scissors are sharp enough. If not, repeat the >procedure. You
> > can also sharpen dull scissors by using the dull scissors to cut a sheet
> > of fine sandpaper several times. These >procedures are not recommended
> > for a good pair of sewing shears.
>
>
<http://recipecircus.com/recipes/carnation037/TipsCleaning/Sharpening_Scisso
rs.html>
>
<http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/gl_equipment_hand_tools/article/0,1785,HGTV_3582_1
383595,00.html>
>
>
> ST
>
> A toner transfer is soaking this moment...
> I hope it comes out well..
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
2003-12-22 by javaguy11111
> Any suggestions on cutting circuit boards. I have used a bandsaw,but
> it tends to be slow, dusty and inaccurate. I have tried papershears,
> but the board tends to get warped and is only good for about twoseems
> inches and it is too hard to cut any further.
>
> I have seen a few references to using a diamond tile saw. They have
> wet tile saws with a diamond blade at home depot for $88 but it
> that the blade would get gummed up with epoxy and not cut.
2003-12-22 by Rick C.
> Thanks to all for the suggestions. I decided to get a cheap tile saw[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> at Home Depot and I am happy to say that it cuts very well and there
> was virtually no dust.
>
> There was a little bit of a copper burr on the edge, but that was
> easily filed away.
>
> One minor inconvenience was that the fence has a gap with the table so
>
> the board could not rest directly against the fence, but a bit of
> scrap circuit board clamped against the fence and flush to the table
> fixed that.
>
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "javaguy11111"
> <javaguy11111@y...> wrote:
> > Any suggestions on cutting circuit boards. I have used a bandsaw,
> but
> > it tends to be slow, dusty and inaccurate. I have tried paper
> shears,
> > but the board tends to get warped and is only good for about two
> > inches and it is too hard to cut any further.
> >
> > I have seen a few references to using a diamond tile saw. They have
>
> > wet tile saws with a diamond blade at home depot for $88 but it
> seems
> > that the blade would get gummed up with epoxy and not cut.
>
>
2003-12-22 by Leon Heller
----- Original Message -----
From: "dangermouse" <dangermouse1956@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2003 12:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Sharpening scissors with sandpaper ???
> Perhaps someone can explain how it is possible for friction with aluminum
to
> sharpen (presumably) heat-treated steel.
Corundum? It's not aluminium but aluminium oxide - what sapphires are made
of.
Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
Email: aqzf13@...
My low-cost Philips LPC210x ARM development system:
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller/lpc2104.html
2003-12-22 by Alan King
> That's similar to what i think....Well think about them from the front. You have the two blades
>
> BUT if it works that way, why the hell do they ever get dull in first
> place?
> (ok, ok i know i shouldn't cut copper wire)
> Shouldn't cutting any material then sharpen them?
>
2003-12-22 by Stefan Trethan
>But i cut two million (nearly) pieces of paper in normal operation compared
> Well think about them from the front. You have the two blades meeting,
> the edges coming together from the diagonal corners, and a piece of paper
> between them. The paper wears just the edge as it slices through, soon
> as it is cut it seperates and has no strength. Sandpaper as it's cut
> will also be gouging out along the short face sharpening the edge. Open
> the scissors up, and try sandpaper then paper along the edge face to
> sharpen by hand, which takes longer? :)
> Aluminum is softer than steel, but there is still relative wear fromAluminium foil will carry aluminium oxyde, which is very hard.
> friction, and aluminum is much tougher than paper. The part just ahead
> of the cut keeps the part just behind the cut together, if it wears the
> edge face a bit more than it wears the edge corner then it'll sharpen the
> scissors. Everything that you cut should either dull or sharpen the
> scissors, and it's an indicator of the relative wear of the corners and
> faces.
>
> Very similar to use of more complex machine tools. An expert machinist's
> tools rarely need sharpening. If you balance all of the variables well,
> you can actually sharpen the bits with the material being cut as they're
> used so that they stay sharp.
>
> Alan
>
2003-12-22 by Ted Inoue
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Rick C." <rixy@V...> wrote:
> You might want to check out the way I've been cutting boards here:
> http://www.pic101.com/pcb
> Rick
>
> javaguy11111 wrote:
>
> > Thanks to all for the suggestions. I decided to get a cheap tile
saw
> > at Home Depot and I am happy to say that it cuts very well and
there
> > was virtually no dust.
> >
> > There was a little bit of a copper burr on the edge, but that was
> > easily filed away.
> >
> > One minor inconvenience was that the fence has a gap with the
table so
> >
> > the board could not rest directly against the fence, but a bit of
> > scrap circuit board clamped against the fence and flush to the
table
> > fixed that.
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "javaguy11111"
> > <javaguy11111@y...> wrote:
> > > Any suggestions on cutting circuit boards. I have used a
bandsaw,
> > but
> > > it tends to be slow, dusty and inaccurate. I have tried paper
> > shears,
> > > but the board tends to get warped and is only good for about two
> > > inches and it is too hard to cut any further.
> > >
> > > I have seen a few references to using a diamond tile saw. They
have
> >
> > > wet tile saws with a diamond blade at home depot for $88 but it
> > seems
> > > that the blade would get gummed up with epoxy and not cut.
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2003-12-22 by Rick C.
> After reading other reports of using a paper cutter to cut PCB's, I[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> tried it myself and totally ruined my paper cutter. It barely knicked
> the board and instead bent up the back bracket of the cutter (where
> the pivot point is). Obviously not a robust design. However, others
> should beware before trying this method. I was much more successful
> with scoring and snapping the board.
>
> ymmv
>
> -Ted
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Rick C." <rixy@V...> wrote:
> > You might want to check out the way I've been cutting boards here:
> > http://www.pic101.com/pcb
> > Rick
> >
> > javaguy11111 wrote:
> >
> > > Thanks to all for the suggestions. I decided to get a cheap tile
> saw
> > > at Home Depot and I am happy to say that it cuts very well and
> there
> > > was virtually no dust.
> > >
> > > There was a little bit of a copper burr on the edge, but that was
> > > easily filed away.
> > >
> > > One minor inconvenience was that the fence has a gap with the
> table so
> > >
> > > the board could not rest directly against the fence, but a bit of
> > > scrap circuit board clamped against the fence and flush to the
> table
> > > fixed that.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "javaguy11111"
> > > <javaguy11111@y...> wrote:
> > > > Any suggestions on cutting circuit boards. I have used a
> bandsaw,
> > > but
> > > > it tends to be slow, dusty and inaccurate. I have tried paper
> > > shears,
> > > > but the board tends to get warped and is only good for about two
>
> > > > inches and it is too hard to cut any further.
> > > >
> > > > I have seen a few references to using a diamond tile saw. They
> have
> > >
> > > > wet tile saws with a diamond blade at home depot for $88 but it
> > > seems
> > > > that the blade would get gummed up with epoxy and not cut.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> * To visit your group on the web, go to:
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> Service.
>
2003-12-22 by Leon Heller
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Inoue" <ted@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2003 12:05 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: How to cut circuit boards?
> After reading other reports of using a paper cutter to cut PCB's, I
> tried it myself and totally ruined my paper cutter. It barely knicked
> the board and instead bent up the back bracket of the cutter (where
> the pivot point is). Obviously not a robust design. However, others
> should beware before trying this method. I was much more successful
> with scoring and snapping the board.
That's what I do. I score it with a scriber first and then with a Stanley
knife, on both sides. It then snaps easily. I usually use Fotoboard 2
laminate( paper-fibreglass composite) - much easier to cut than FR4.
Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
Email: aqzf13@...
My low-cost Philips LPC210x ARM development system:
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller/lpc2104.html
2003-12-22 by Dave Mucha
> Any suggestions on cutting circuit boards. I have used a bandsaw,but
> it tends to be slow, dusty and inaccurate. I have tried papershears,
> but the board tends to get warped and is only good for about twoseems
> inches and it is too hard to cut any further.
>
> I have seen a few references to using a diamond tile saw. They have
> wet tile saws with a diamond blade at home depot for $88 but it
> that the blade would get gummed up with epoxy and not cut.Go for the Home Depot machine.
2003-12-23 by Ted Inoue
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Rick C." <rixy@V...> wrote:
> Very interesting. I didn't know they made a cheaper on than the one
I
> show. I have been using the same cutter for over 30 years without a
> problem. Almost professional results. I taught two adult education
> classes requiring students to purchase their own cutter. Not one
cutter
> was incapable of doing the job. The cutter model referenced will do
the
> job. The word "beware" is a strong word to use.
> Rick
>
> Ted Inoue wrote:
>
> > After reading other reports of using a paper cutter to cut PCB's,
I
> > tried it myself and totally ruined my paper cutter. It barely
knicked
> > the board and instead bent up the back bracket of the cutter
(where
> > the pivot point is). Obviously not a robust design. However,
others
> > should beware before trying this method. I was much more
successful
> > with scoring and snapping the board.
> >
> > ymmv
> >
> > -Ted
2003-12-23 by Mike Cowlishaw
2003-12-23 by Stefan Trethan
> Mentioned before, I think, but another good way to cut PCBs is aI used the same blade as on your picture.
> table-mounted jigsaw. Probably safer than a circular saw, too.
>
> Here's a picture:
>
> http://www.speleogroup.org/JigSaw-setup.jpg
>
> The blade is a tile & glass cutter blade (tungsten carbide coated).
>
> Mike Cowlishaw
>
2003-12-24 by mikezcnc
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "javaguy11111"have
> <javaguy11111@y...> wrote:
> > Any suggestions on cutting circuit boards. I have used a bandsaw,
> but
> > it tends to be slow, dusty and inaccurate. I have tried paper
> shears,
> > but the board tends to get warped and is only good for about two
> > inches and it is too hard to cut any further.
> >
> > I have seen a few references to using a diamond tile saw. They
> > wet tile saws with a diamond blade at home depot for $88 but itKit)
> seems
> > that the blade would get gummed up with epoxy and not cut.
>
> I use a machine shop sheet metal shear that I picked up used for $75
> USD.
> You can buy a sheet metal shear /combo (Sheet Metal Fabrication
> from harborfreight.com. Their fall catalog had a sale for $89.99
> marked down from $189.99.
> Machine shop shears are the only way to go if you can afford them.
2003-12-24 by Stefan Trethan
> Stan,Can you please post a scan or so of a cut pcb?
>
> Your advice to use the metal fabrication tool is ingenious! I would never
> figure out how that thing cuts anything. I was in the store looking for
> soemthing to cut and teh salesmen did not know that htey had it. I kept
> walking by it several times without realizing what the beast does. I
> somehow ended up with a guide fence and a hand puch, all thanks to you!!!
>
> When I cut my first PCB, I could not believe the quality of the cut! You
> were right that this is the ultimate tool to use to cut PCBs. Thank you
> VERY much for your information. I would never use a grinder or sand paper
> due to possibility of dust, which is a very deadly substance.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Mike
>
>
>
2003-12-26 by mikezcnc
> On Wed, 24 Dec 2003 19:36:57 -0000, mikezcnc <marabu@c...> wrote:would never
>
> > Stan,
> >
> > Your advice to use the metal fabrication tool is ingenious! I
> > figure out how that thing cuts anything. I was in the storelooking for
> > soemthing to cut and teh salesmen did not know that htey had it.I kept
> > walking by it several times without realizing what the beastdoes. I
> > somehow ended up with a guide fence and a hand puch, all thanksto you!!!
> >cut! You
> > When I cut my first PCB, I could not believe the quality of the
> > were right that this is the ultimate tool to use to cut PCBs.Thank you
> > VERY much for your information. I would never use a grinder orsand paper
> > due to possibility of dust, which is a very deadly substance.and the
> >
> > Sincerely,
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
>
> Can you please post a scan or so of a cut pcb?
> maybe the edge?
> I used the bungard pcb shear once, (is built like any table shear)
> cut was really bad. maybe the machine was not adjusted properly orblunt or
> something.layers
> that led me to decide that is not the way to go.
> (the edges got white a few millimaters inward where the laminate
> were separated.)particular
>
> I would really like to see one of your cuts, to see if only that
> unit was so bad.
>
> Stefan
2003-12-26 by Stefan Trethan
> Hi Stan,Thanks.
>
> You are absolutely correct that Bungard is not the way to go IMO.
> http://www.covenantgroup.com.ph/covenant/bungard1.html
>
> I haven't tried Bungard but I have been forced to work with Kepro Shears
> ($565 when they were in business) and it was always tricky to use and
> everybody was always tense using that bloody finger eater. However, once
> I got the shears mentioned in msg 3510, the cuts look great. I cannot
> produce the scan because I am in the middle of a few projects but I tried
> cutting it several times, different sizes and concluded that it is simply
> an incredible tool. If you saw it and were not familiar with that tool
> you would probably never figure out its M.O. The price right now is so
> bizarre that it's laughable. Sorry, I couldn't produce images, but
> imagine having a perfect cut with a perfect tool, without dust and with
> much less risk to your fingers than by using Bungard.
>
> Mike
>
>
2003-12-26 by mikezcnc
> On Fri, 26 Dec 2003 05:41:07 -0000, mikezcnc <marabu@c...> wrote:Shears
>
> > Hi Stan,
> >
> > You are absolutely correct that Bungard is not the way to go IMO.
> > http://www.covenantgroup.com.ph/covenant/bungard1.html
> >
> > I haven't tried Bungard but I have been forced to work with Kepro
> > ($565 when they were in business) and it was always tricky to useand
> > everybody was always tense using that bloody finger eater.However, once
> > I got the shears mentioned in msg 3510, the cuts look great. Icannot
> > produce the scan because I am in the middle of a few projects butI tried
> > cutting it several times, different sizes and concluded that itis simply
> > an incredible tool. If you saw it and were not familiar with thattool
> > you would probably never figure out its M.O. The price right nowis so
> > bizarre that it's laughable. Sorry, I couldn't produce images,but
> > imagine having a perfect cut with a perfect tool, without dustand with
> > much less risk to your fingers than by using Bungard.pcb work
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
>
> Thanks.
>
> The Bungard shears were my only experience with bench shears.
> After using them my mind was made up never using a bench shear for
> again.i find
>
> It's good to know that it works better with other shears, maybe if
> one for cheap i will try.
>
> Stefan
2003-12-28 by mikezcnc
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <marabu@c...> wrote:
> Stefan,
>
> You don't understand like I couldn't understand until a salesman
> showed me how the rollers work in a cutting funtion. It is amazing!
> Check post 3510 for numbers at www.harborfreight.com or search
there
> for metal shears. Metal shears (they call them shears, but they
look
> nothing like that) and cost $90. This is enough for cutting and
hten
> you have an optional fence guide kit for $30. I am telling you that
> if not for PCB cutting get it as an investment tool because never
> will you be able to cut such hard material as PCB with such ease!
All
> tehnks go to the author of post #3510. And that hole punch is just
> sweet. I can have corner holes in no time.
>
> Mike
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Stefan Trethan
> <stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> > On Fri, 26 Dec 2003 05:41:07 -0000, mikezcnc <marabu@c...> wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Stan,
> > >
> > > You are absolutely correct that Bungard is not the way to go
IMO.
> > > http://www.covenantgroup.com.ph/covenant/bungard1.html
> > >
> > > I haven't tried Bungard but I have been forced to work with
Kepro
> Shears
> > > ($565 when they were in business) and it was always tricky to
use
> and
> > > everybody was always tense using that bloody finger eater.
> However, once
> > > I got the shears mentioned in msg 3510, the cuts look great. I
> cannot
> > > produce the scan because I am in the middle of a few projects
but
> I tried
> > > cutting it several times, different sizes and concluded that it
> is simply
> > > an incredible tool. If you saw it and were not familiar with
that
> tool
> > > you would probably never figure out its M.O. The price right
now
> is so
> > > bizarre that it's laughable. Sorry, I couldn't produce images,
> but
> > > imagine having a perfect cut with a perfect tool, without dust
> and with
> > > much less risk to your fingers than by using Bungard.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > The Bungard shears were my only experience with bench shears.
> > After using them my mind was made up never using a bench shear
for
> pcb work
> > again.
> >
> > It's good to know that it works better with other shears, maybe
if
> i find
> > one for cheap i will try.
> >
> > Stefan
2003-12-28 by Stefan Trethan
> The said shears cut wonderfully a regular fiberglass board. however, IDo you have a shear which slides down a blade simultaneously the whole
> just learned that a Radio Shack-type Prottype Board gets crack terribly.
2003-12-29 by mikezcnc
> On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 06:02:45 -0000, mikezcnc <marabu@c...> wrote:however, I
>
> > The said shears cut wonderfully a regular fiberglass board.
> > just learned that a Radio Shack-type Prottype Board gets crackterribly.
>whole
>
> Do you have a shear which slides down a blade simultaneously the
> length?
> or do you have shear which pivots the blade down?
> Or have i not read wrong and you mentioned a roller?
>
> ST
2003-12-29 by Leon Heller
----- Original Message -----
From: "mikezcnc" <marabu@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 11:20 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: How to cut circuit boards? small correction
> Stefan,
>
> This is the cutter that feeds the board between two rollers and cuts
> it while feeding the board. Very unusual but works like a dream. Mike
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Stefan Trethan
> <stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> > On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 06:02:45 -0000, mikezcnc <marabu@c...> wrote:
> >
> > > The said shears cut wonderfully a regular fiberglass board.
> however, I
> > > just learned that a Radio Shack-type Prottype Board gets crack
> terribly.
IIRC SRBP board shears properly if it is heated first. This softens the
resin.
Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
Email: aqzf13@...
My low-cost Philips LPC210x ARM development system:
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller/lpc2104.html
2003-12-30 by mikezcnc
>correction
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "mikezcnc" <marabu@c...>
> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 11:20 AM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: How to cut circuit boards? small
>cuts
>
> > Stefan,
> >
> > This is the cutter that feeds the board between two rollers and
> > it while feeding the board. Very unusual but works like a dream.Mike
> >wrote:
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Stefan Trethan
> > <stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> > > On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 06:02:45 -0000, mikezcnc <marabu@c...>
> > >the
> > > > The said shears cut wonderfully a regular fiberglass board.
> > however, I
> > > > just learned that a Radio Shack-type Prottype Board gets crack
> > terribly.
>
> IIRC SRBP board shears properly if it is heated first. This softens
> resin.
>
> Leon
> --
> Leon Heller, G1HSM
> Email: aqzf13@d...
> My low-cost Philips LPC210x ARM development system:
> http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller/lpc2104.html