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First attempt at toner transfer

First attempt at toner transfer

2016-05-30 by Brad

 

So I took a run at it.  I printed my artwork to magazine pages, then placed on my copper and ironed away.  The first attempt failed pretty hard

… 5 minutes with the iron and maybe 40% of it was missing.  I cleaned the board with acetone, printed again and this time went to 10 minutes.  Better.. but still missing bits. 

 

Wondering where to look for problems here?  Paper?  Iron not hot enough?  How do you know?

 

Also.. is there a limit to how many times you can attempt ironing on a PCB?

 

Brad

 

Re: First attempt at toner transfer

2016-05-30 by craigl2@...

Acetone (or any solvent) will leave behind at least a mono layer of oil or other organic material. This may be your problem as it can lead to poor adhesion of paint or other coatings to metal. Try cleaning the board with an abrasive cleanser such as Comet. You can follow this with acetone or alcohol if you wish. When properly clean, water should spread out over the surface rather than bead up. Let us know if this makes a difference.

Also, be sure you are applying enough pressure while ironing.

I don't know of any limit to the number of times you can try using the same board.

Craig

Re: First attempt at toner transfer

2016-05-30 by Tony Fishpool

Brad,

 

I completely agree with Craig. No need to use chemicals to clean the board.

 

I use this abrasive block:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Garryson-GARABF-Garryflex-Abrasive-Block-Fine-240-Grit-/181758901460?hash=item2a51acbcd4:g:gqwAAOSw~OdVZuNK

 

Although I use a laminator, your clothes iron should do the job OK.

I use magazine paper – travel brochures work consistently well for me – and they are free!

 

Some examples...

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1987387/protoboards.htm

 

After laminating machine I drop the boards in a dish of water and let the paper turn to mush and gently stroking my thumb over it the paper just falls off leaving the toner behind.

 

Kind regards

Tony G4WIF  

 

<snip> 

>Acetone (or any solvent) will leave behind at least a mono layer of oil or other organic material.

>Craig

<snip>

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

2016-05-30 by Brad

Thanks muchly and one other question if I may.. does it make any difference using original vs reman/compatible toner?  I have compatible right now.  The only thing I have with original toner is my big Minolta copier.

 

Also just a clarification.. if I use Comet and then acetone won’t that leave me in the same place with respect to oils?

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2016 10:56 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

 

 

Acetone (or any solvent) will leave behind at least a mono layer of oil or other organic material. This may be your problem as it can lead to poor adhesion of paint or other coatings to metal. Try cleaning the board with an abrasive cleanser such as Comet. You can follow this with acetone or alcohol if you wish. When properly clean, water should spread out over the surface rather than bead up. Let us know if this makes a difference.

Also, be sure you are applying enough pressure while ironing.

I don't know of any limit to the number of times you can try using the same board.

Craig

Re: First attempt at toner transfer

2016-05-30 by Tony Fishpool

My own take on that is remanufactured toner is probably different. It may melt at higher or low temperatures than the real deal.

The only way you can know is to try it, and if it works, hope that the next cartridge works just the same. There is probably more consistency with the manufacturers toner.

 

As I suggested in my previous. Forget using the acetone.

 

73

Tony G4WIF

 

 

Thanks muchly and one other question if I may.. does it make any difference using original vs reman/compatible toner?  I have compatible right now.  The only thing I have with original toner is my big Minolta copier.

Also just a clarification.. if I use Comet and then acetone won’t that leave me in the same place with respect to oils?

Re: First attempt at toner transfer

2016-05-30 by craigl2@...

The acetone or alcohol should not add any oil or other unwanted organic material to the board. As long as all of the cleaner is removed from the board I'm not sure there is any benefit of using acetone other than helping remove traces of water quicker.

You should clean the board shortly before you use it. If it sits around or a day or maybe less depending on the environment it will pick up a film of organic material and will also tend to oxidize.

As to toner, you may need to experiment. Most people say that Brother brand printers do not work because toner has a higher melting point. The general consensus is that toner from the original manufacturer tends to work well. Replacement cartridges from other sources may or may not work well. The claim is some suppliers use less plastic in their toner mix (the plastic is what gets melted and binds and fuses the toner to the paper). If true, it is probably not the cost of the plastic as a raw material which is so expensive but the cost of producing it in the small particle size required. What makes up the rest of the volume when less plastic is used I have no idea, possibly more pigment or some other filler with a small particle size.

Craig


---In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, <unclefalter@...> wrote :

Thanks muchly and one other question if I may.. does it make any difference using original vs reman/compatible toner?  I have compatible right now.  The only thing I have with original toner is my big Minolta copier.

 

Also just a clarification.. if I use Comet and then acetone won’t that leave me in the same place with respect to oils?

 

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

2016-05-30 by Brad

Thanks guys.

 

Yeah, I’m kind of suspicious about my toner here.  I’ve noticed before that, say, original HP toner tends to have a more ‘shiny’ appearance than the ‘compatible’ stuff does.  I assumed there was something different there.

 

I’m getting probably 75% transferred after 10 minutes.. and it’s got great adhesion once it does and is nice and crisp – but I just can’t seem to get all of it.  I’m wondering if my magazine (Macleans) pages aren’t up to snuff.  Or my iron.

 

Brad

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2016 8:48 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

 

 

The acetone or alcohol should not add any oil or other unwanted organic material to the board. As long as all of the cleaner is removed from the board I'm not sure there is any benefit of using acetone other than helping remove traces of water quicker.

You should clean the board shortly before you use it. If it sits around or a day or maybe less depending on the environment it will pick up a film of organic material and will also tend to oxidize.

As to toner, you may need to experiment. Most people say that Brother brand printers do not work because toner has a higher melting point. The general consensus is that toner from the original manufacturer tends to work well. Replacement cartridges from other sources may or may not work well. The claim is some suppliers use less plastic in their toner mix (the plastic is what gets melted and binds and fuses the toner to the paper). If true, it is probably not the cost of the plastic as a raw material which is so expensive but the cost of producing it in the small particle size required. What makes up the rest of the volume when less plastic is used I have no idea, possibly more pigment or some other filler with a small particle size.

Craig



---In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, <unclefalter@...> wrote :

Thanks muchly and one other question if I may.. does it make any difference using original vs reman/compatible toner?  I have compatible right now.  The only thing I have with original toner is my big Minolta copier.

 

Also just a clarification.. if I use Comet and then acetone won’t that leave me in the same place with respect to oils?

 

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

2016-05-30 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg

Brad

Try putting the board and paper in the freezer for 20 minutes before you try to peel. Works for me.

Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

--------------------------------------------
On Mon, 5/30/16, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, May 30, 2016, 5:32 PM


 









Thanks guys.  Yeah, I’m kind of suspicious
about my toner here.  I’ve noticed before that, say,
original HP toner tends to have a more ‘shiny’
appearance than the ‘compatible’ stuff does.  I assumed
there was something different there.  I’m getting probably 75%
transferred after 10 minutes.. and it’s got great adhesion
once it does and is nice and crisp – but I just can’t
seem to get all of it.  I’m wondering if my magazine
(Macleans) pages aren’t up to snuff.  Or my
iron.  Brad  From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2016 8:48 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First
attempt at toner transfer    The acetone or alcohol should
not add any oil or other unwanted organic material to the
board. As long as all of the cleaner is removed from the
board I'm not sure there is any benefit of using acetone
other than helping remove traces of water quicker.

You should clean the board
shortly before you use it. If it sits around or a day or
maybe less depending on the environment it will pick up a
film of organic material and will also tend to oxidize.

As to toner, you may need to
experiment. Most people say that Brother brand printers do
not work because toner has a higher melting point. The
general consensus is that toner from the original
manufacturer tends to work well. Replacement cartridges from
other sources may or may not work well. The claim is some
suppliers use less plastic in their toner mix (the plastic
is what gets melted and binds and fuses the toner to the
paper). If true, it is probably not the cost of the plastic
as a raw material which is so expensive but the cost of
producing it in the small particle size required. What makes
up the rest of the volume when less plastic is used I have
no idea, possibly more pigment or some other filler with a
small particle size.

Craig

---In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com,
<unclefalter@...> wrote :Thanks muchly and
one other question if I may.. does it make any difference
using original vs reman/compatible toner?  I have
compatible right now.  The only thing I have with original
toner is my big Minolta copier. Also just a
clarification.. if I use Comet and then acetone won’t that
leave me in the same place with respect to
oils? 










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RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-01 by Brad

I tried it a different way – I took pages from a Hot Rod magazine I have (slightly glossier than the pages I was using from my other mag).  I then printed off the two boards I’m trying to transfer onto regular paper, then put those in my Minolta copier (which has original Minolta toner) and then copied to the magazine paper.

 

I did about 5 minutes of solid ironing on each.  I did not however try freezing the paper (my method was to just scrub it with a plastic scrub brush under water – seems to work fine.  And again, it’s always the same.. I get about 80% including really, really fine details but there’s always just a bit missing in one area or another.

 

Does that toner transfer paper make any difference?  I mean, I’ve seen this method work with magazine pages pretty quickly in youtube videos, however the PCBs people do tend to be quite small.  Mine are bigger than the iron surface.

 

I’ll scrub the board down again and try one more time with freezing..  I just hate that I can’t see or tell if the toner has adhered properly before I start peeling away.

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2016 11:28 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

 

 

My own take on that is remanufactured toner is probably different. It may melt at higher or low temperatures than the real deal.

The only way you can know is to try it, and if it works, hope that the next cartridge works just the same. There is probably more consistency with the manufacturers toner.

 

As I suggested in my previous. Forget using the acetone.

 

73

Tony G4WIF

 

 

Thanks muchly and one other question if I may.. does it make any difference using original vs reman/compatible toner?  I have compatible right now.  The only thing I have with original toner is my big Minolta copier.

Also just a clarification.. if I use Comet and then acetone won’t that leave me in the same place with respect to oils?

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-01 by Brad

Yeah both of those things are what I was using.  I did use Comet to scrub the board after my second failed attempt at a transfer though.

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2016 4:43 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

 

 

I use a ScothBright (green scrubber) pad and nail polish remover (acetone) I have had better success with generic photopaper


--

Paul Mateer, AA9GG
Elan Engineering Corp.
www.elanengr.com
NAQCC 3123, SKCC 4628, FPQRP 2003

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-01 by Bill Verstelle

I use a different approach, I clean the copper with something like Dutch cleaner then I put the board in the acid etchant and the copper will turn darker, just a few seconds to maybe 15 seconds. I remove the board rinse it off and then do the transfer. The toner sticks so good that if I use shinny photo paper all I need to do is just peel off the paper and the toner will stay on the board. Since I started to do this I have never had a failure. So a short pre etch makes all the difference in the world for me.
Bill N7OQ  

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 1, 2016, at 3:40 PM, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

I tried it a different way – I took pages from a Hot Rod magazine I have (slightly glossier than the pages I was using from my other mag).  I then printed off the two boards I’m trying to transfer onto regular paper, then put those in my Minolta copier (which has original Minolta toner) and then copied to the magazine paper.

 

I did about 5 minutes of solid ironing on each.  I did not however try freezing the paper (my method was to just scrub it with a plastic scrub brush under water – seems to work fine.  And again, it’s always the same.. I get about 80% including really, really fine details but there’s always just a bit missing in one area or another.

 

Does that toner transfer paper make any difference?  I mean, I’ve seen this method work with magazine pages pretty quickly in youtube videos, however the PCBs people do tend to be quite small.  Mine are bigger than the iron surface.

 

I’ll scrub the board down again and try one more time with freezing..  I just hate that I can’t see or tell if the toner has adhered properly before I start peeling away.

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2016 11:28 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

 

 

My own take on that is remanufactured toner is probably different. It may melt at higher or low temperatures than the real deal.

The only way you can know is to try it, and if it works, hope that the next cartridge works just the same. There is probably more consistency with the manufacturers toner.

 

As I suggested in my previous. Forget using the acetone.

 

73

Tony G4WIF

 

 

Thanks muchly and one other question if I may.. does it make any difference using original vs reman/compatible toner?  I have compatible right now.  The only thing I have with original toner is my big Minolta copier.

Also just a clarification.. if I use Comet and then acetone won’t that leave me in the same place with respect to oils?

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-02 by Brad

That’s an interesting approach.  I’ll have to try that.

 

I’ve now tried inkjet photo paper + cool off in freezer.. no dice.  Was way worse than the magazine paper.

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 1, 2016 4:52 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

 

 

I use a different approach, I clean the copper with something like Dutch cleaner then I put the board in the acid etchant and the copper will turn darker, just a few seconds to maybe 15 seconds. I remove the board rinse it off and then do the transfer. The toner sticks so good that if I use shinny photo paper all I need to do is just peel off the paper and the toner will stay on the board. Since I started to do this I have never had a failure. So a short pre etch makes all the difference in the world for me.

Bill N7OQ  

Sent from my iPad


On Jun 1, 2016, at 3:40 PM, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

I tried it a different way – I took pages from a Hot Rod magazine I have (slightly glossier than the pages I was using from my other mag).  I then printed off the two boards I’m trying to transfer onto regular paper, then put those in my Minolta copier (which has original Minolta toner) and then copied to the magazine paper.

 

I did about 5 minutes of solid ironing on each.  I did not however try freezing the paper (my method was to just scrub it with a plastic scrub brush under water – seems to work fine.  And again, it’s always the same.. I get about 80% including really, really fine details but there’s always just a bit missing in one area or another.

 

Does that toner transfer paper make any difference?  I mean, I’ve seen this method work with magazine pages pretty quickly in youtube videos, however the PCBs people do tend to be quite small.  Mine are bigger than the iron surface.

 

I’ll scrub the board down again and try one more time with freezing..  I just hate that I can’t see or tell if the toner has adhered properly before I start peeling away.

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2016 11:28 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

 

 

My own take on that is remanufactured toner is probably different. It may melt at higher or low temperatures than the real deal.

The only way you can know is to try it, and if it works, hope that the next cartridge works just the same. There is probably more consistency with the manufacturers toner.

 

As I suggested in my previous. Forget using the acetone.

 

73

Tony G4WIF

 

 

Thanks muchly and one other question if I may.. does it make any difference using original vs reman/compatible toner?  I have compatible right now.  The only thing I have with original toner is my big Minolta copier.

Also just a clarification.. if I use Comet and then acetone won’t that leave me in the same place with respect to oils?

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-02 by John Snyder

Bill

 

I am also trying for the first time, how do you do the transfer to the slight etched copper board?

 

John

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 4:52 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

 




I use a different approach, I clean the copper with something like Dutch cleaner then I put the board in the acid etchant and the copper will turn darker, just a few seconds to maybe 15 seconds. I remove the board rinse it off and then do the transfer. The toner sticks so good that if I use shinny photo paper all I need to do is just peel off the paper and the toner will stay on the board. Since I started to do this I have never had a failure. So a short pre etch makes all the difference in the world for me.

Bill N7OQ  

Sent from my iPad


On Jun 1, 2016, at 3:40 PM, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

I tried it a different way – I took pages from a Hot Rod magazine I have (slightly glossier than the pages I was using from my other mag).  I then printed off the two boards I’m trying to transfer onto regular paper, then put those in my Minolta copier (which has original Minolta toner) and then copied to the magazine paper.

 

I did about 5 minutes of solid ironing on each.  I did not however try freezing the paper (my method was to just scrub it with a plastic scrub brush under water – seems to work fine.  And again, it’s always the same.. I get about 80% including really, really fine details but there’s always just a bit missing in one area or another.

 

Does that toner transfer paper make any difference?  I mean, I’ve seen this method work with magazine pages pretty quickly in youtube videos, however the PCBs people do tend to be quite small.  Mine are bigger than the iron surface.

 

I’ll scrub the board down again and try one more time with freezing..  I just hate that I can’t see or tell if the toner has adhered properly before I start peeling away.

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2016 11:28 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

 

 

My own take on that is remanufactured toner is probably different. It may melt at higher or low temperatures than the real deal.

The only way you can know is to try it, and if it works, hope that the next cartridge works just the same. There is probably more consistency with the manufacturers toner.

 

As I suggested in my previous. Forget using the acetone.

 

73

Tony G4WIF

 

 

Thanks muchly and one other question if I may.. does it make any difference using original vs reman/compatible toner?  I have compatible right now.  The only thing I have with original toner is my big Minolta copier.

Also just a clarification.. if I use Comet and then acetone won’t that leave me in the same place with respect to oils?


Re: First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-02 by Tony Fishpool

Brad,

80% would suggest that 20% of the board didn’t get hot enough or it didn’t get clean enough.

You really don’t need a brush to clean the paper off if you properly soak it after transfer.

You should be able to wipe the mushy paper off with your fingers.

 

Using a laminator – a decent business model (I use a GBC) or a cheap one that you’ve hacked to turn up the temperature might help you get more consistent results. It seems that the “cheapies” can be spotted as they don’t have a temperature knob. All those that I’ve seen in my place of work do.

 

You asked about paper, and I’m guessing here because ordinary plain photocopier paper doesn’t work for me. My guess is that the toner fuses better with ordinary paper but with glossy perhaps not so much. Meaning there is possibly more toner to adhere to the board.

 

72/3

Tony G4WIF

 

 

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: 01 June 2016 23:41
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

 

 

I did about 5 minutes of solid ironing on each.  I did not however try freezing the paper (my method was to just scrub it with a plastic scrub brush under water – seems to work fine.  And again, it’s always the same.. I get about 80% including really, really fine details but there’s always just a bit missing in one area or another.

Does that toner transfer paper make any difference?  I mean, I’ve seen this method work with magazine pages pretty quickly in youtube videos, however the PCBs people do tend to be quite small.  Mine are bigger than the iron surface.

Re: First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-02 by AncelB

The yellow Toner Ebay paper works fine. I also 220 grit sand the copper
before applying via the laminator so the toner does a 100% transfer.
Don't handle the cleaned copper with fingertips, you need it clean for a
good transfer and etch.
Have a look at my page on this with the 23 sequenced pictures (files
section) and videos detailing the approach via 9+ steps.
https://hackaday.io/project/7938-pcb-smt-maker-lab-home

Ancel

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-02 by Bill Verstelle

John I either use photo paper or parchment paper and a laminator. I run it through the laminator about about 7 times then let it cool and peel off the paper.  Printer is a HP 1102w and I use pool acid with hydrogen Peroxide as an etchant. 
Good luck hope it works for you too,
Bill

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 1, 2016, at 11:01 PM, 'John Snyder' Kochcal@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Bill

 

I am also trying for the first time, how do you do the transfer to the slight etched copper board?

 

John

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 4:52 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

 




I use a different approach, I clean the copper with something like Dutch cleaner then I put the board in the acid etchant and the copper will turn darker, just a few seconds to maybe 15 seconds. I remove the board rinse it off and then do the transfer. The toner sticks so good that if I use shinny photo paper all I need to do is just peel off the paper and the toner will stay on the board. Since I started to do this I have never had a failure. So a short pre etch makes all the difference in the world for me.

Bill N7OQ  

Sent from my iPad


On Jun 1, 2016, at 3:40 PM, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

I tried it a different way – I took pages from a Hot Rod magazine I have (slightly glossier than the pages I was using from my other mag).  I then printed off the two boards I’m trying to transfer onto regular paper, then put those in my Minolta copier (which has original Minolta toner) and then copied to the magazine paper.

 

I did about 5 minutes of solid ironing on each.  I did not however try freezing the paper (my method was to just scrub it with a plastic scrub brush under water – seems to work fine.  And again, it’s always the same.. I get about 80% including really, really fine details but there’s always just a bit missing in one area or another.

 

Does that toner transfer paper make any difference?  I mean, I’ve seen this method work with magazine pages pretty quickly in youtube videos, however the PCBs people do tend to be quite small.  Mine are bigger than the iron surface.

 

I’ll scrub the board down again and try one more time with freezing..  I just hate that I can’t see or tell if the toner has adhered properly before I start peeling away.

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2016 11:28 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

 

 

My own take on that is remanufactured toner is probably different. It may melt at higher or low temperatures than the real deal.

The only way you can know is to try it, and if it works, hope that the next cartridge works just the same. There is probably more consistency with the manufacturers toner.

 

As I suggested in my previous. Forget using the acetone.

 

73

Tony G4WIF

 

 

Thanks muchly and one other question if I may.. does it make any difference using original vs reman/compatible toner?  I have compatible right now.  The only thing I have with original toner is my big Minolta copier.

Also just a clarification.. if I use Comet and then acetone won’t that leave me in the same place with respect to oils?


RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-02 by Brad

I get the heebie jeebies just thinking about messing with hydrocholoric acid again.  I remember when we had our pool how nasty that stuff was.  Is ferric really no better/safer?

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 2, 2016 9:54 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

 

 

John I either use photo paper or parchment paper and a laminator. I run it through the laminator about about 7 times then let it cool and peel off the paper.  Printer is a HP 1102w and I use pool acid with hydrogen Peroxide as an etchant. 

Good luck hope it works for you too,

Bill

Sent from my iPad


On Jun 1, 2016, at 11:01 PM, 'John Snyder' Kochcal@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Bill

 

I am also trying for the first time, how do you do the transfer to the slight etched copper board?

 

John

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 4:52 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

 





I use a different approach, I clean the copper with something like Dutch cleaner then I put the board in the acid etchant and the copper will turn darker, just a few seconds to maybe 15 seconds. I remove the board rinse it off and then do the transfer. The toner sticks so good that if I use shinny photo paper all I need to do is just peel off the paper and the toner will stay on the board. Since I started to do this I have never had a failure. So a short pre etch makes all the difference in the world for me.

Bill N7OQ  

Sent from my iPad

 

On Jun 1, 2016, at 3:40 PM, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

I tried it a different way – I took pages from a Hot Rod magazine I have (slightly glossier than the pages I was using from my other mag).  I then printed off the two boards I’m trying to transfer onto regular paper, then put those in my Minolta copier (which has original Minolta toner) and then copied to the magazine paper.

 

I did about 5 minutes of solid ironing on each.  I did not however try freezing the paper (my method was to just scrub it with a plastic scrub brush under water – seems to work fine.  And again, it’s always the same.. I get about 80% including really, really fine details but there’s always just a bit missing in one area or another.

 

Does that toner transfer paper make any difference?  I mean, I’ve seen this method work with magazine pages pretty quickly in youtube videos, however the PCBs people do tend to be quite small.  Mine are bigger than the iron surface.

 

I’ll scrub the board down again and try one more time with freezing..  I just hate that I can’t see or tell if the toner has adhered properly before I start peeling away.

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2016 11:28 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

 

 

My own take on that is remanufactured toner is probably different. It may melt at higher or low temperatures than the real deal.

The only way you can know is to try it, and if it works, hope that the next cartridge works just the same. There is probably more consistency with the manufacturers toner.

 

As I suggested in my previous. Forget using the acetone.

 

73

Tony G4WIF

 

 

Thanks muchly and one other question if I may.. does it make any difference using original vs reman/compatible toner?  I have compatible right now.  The only thing I have with original toner is my big Minolta copier.

Also just a clarification.. if I use Comet and then acetone won’t that leave me in the same place with respect to oils?



RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-02 by Brad

I think the hard part is knowing when it’s finished.  I mean, I went 5 minutes+ pressing pretty hard on the iron.. there’ no way to see before you start peeling if it succeeded. 

 

I may be doing the paper removal wrong but I’m assuming if the toner hadn’t stuck it wouldn’t matter..

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 2, 2016 12:14 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

 

 

Brad,

80% would suggest that 20% of the board didn’t get hot enough or it didn’t get clean enough.

You really don’t need a brush to clean the paper off if you properly soak it after transfer.

You should be able to wipe the mushy paper off with your fingers.

 

Using a laminator – a decent business model (I use a GBC) or a cheap one that you’ve hacked to turn up the temperature might help you get more consistent results. It seems that the “cheapies” can be spotted as they don’t have a temperature knob. All those that I’ve seen in my place of work do.

 

You asked about paper, and I’m guessing here because ordinary plain photocopier paper doesn’t work for me. My guess is that the toner fuses better with ordinary paper but with glossy perhaps not so much. Meaning there is possibly more toner to adhere to the board.

 

72/3

Tony G4WIF

 

 

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: 01 June 2016 23:41
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer

 

 

I did about 5 minutes of solid ironing on each.  I did not however try freezing the paper (my method was to just scrub it with a plastic scrub brush under water – seems to work fine.  And again, it’s always the same.. I get about 80% including really, really fine details but there’s always just a bit missing in one area or another.

Does that toner transfer paper make any difference?  I mean, I’ve seen this method work with magazine pages pretty quickly in youtube videos, however the PCBs people do tend to be quite small.  Mine are bigger than the iron surface.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-03 by Mark Lerman


I know this isn't what you asked, but this < http://www.instructables.com/id/Modification-of-the-Pantum-2502W-for-Direct-Laser-/
> is a process for making pcbs that has a much, much easier learning
curve and is less expensive than toner transfer.

Mark



At 01:32 AM 5/30/2016, you wrote:


 
So I took a run at it.  I printed my artwork to magazine pages, then placed on my copper and ironed away.  The first attempt failed pretty hard
… 5 minutes with the iron and maybe 40% of it was missing.  I cleaned the board with acetone, printed again and this time went to 10 minutes.  Better.. but still missing bits. 
 
Wondering where to look for problems here?  Paper?  Iron not hot enough?  How do you know?
 
Also.. is there a limit to how many times you can attempt ironing on a PCB?
 
Brad
 


Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-04 by goofy_36@...

I'm new around here.  So, thanks for the link.  True it at best would be really tricky to do double sided.  But, looks good if all you need is single sided.  I just might get one of these to try out.  For $35 or so, it's not like you are out that much if things don't work out.

People still using toner transfer??? was Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-05 by Chris Tofu

I didn't even think you could buy it.

Been lurking for a while.

Anyway, I attended a informal discussion of a new fandangled method of, technically I guess, toner transfer. Utilizing Knox brand gelatine. Like Jello, but no flava. Let me see if I can remember the procedure.

Whatever the recipe is for plain gelative, use 3x as much water. IIRC one packet requires dissolving in 1/4 cup of cold water, with 1 3/4 cups of boiling subsequently added. So therefore to 1 packet add 3/4 cup cold water, dissolve, then 5 1/4 cups of water, for a total of 6 cups. Now that's a lot of gelatine, so you may want to "cut" the packet into portions w/a razor like a coca cola dealer :). Use your discretion. Just don't snort the stuff.

 Um while still a liquid (presumably it'll stay a liquid, too thin to gel but what do I know), paint with a cheap paint brush on to sheet/s of printer paper. Maybe let it cool a bit before painting? Let dry. When dry, print your artwork onto these sheets (on the Knox side obviously) using a copy machine (I don't remember inkjet printers being acceptable). Then you would iron those sheets onto copper board (using a cloth between iron and sheet), with steam IIRC. I think you could also bake it in the oven for a while to harden it, can't remember the details, maybe 100 degrees for an hour? Most ovens don't go down that low, so improvise I guess.

 I haven't tried it yet, but was told it's basically fool proof. Unlike the standard commercial toner transfer sheets which is so error prone to make it unacceptable. Give it a shot, let the group know. Any questions, feel free to ask, I'll do what I can to answer them.


RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-05 by Brad

I gave parchment a try.  I can print to parchment easily with my HP 4250 – but I was surprised to see the toner was even less inclined to come off that!  I ironed like crazy to no avail!

 

Didn’t think this would be the hardest part of the process.. haha.  On to next experiment..

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-05 by rolohar@...

I wonder if anyone is experimenting or using the "cold transfer" technique?

Roland F. Harriston P.D.

...I gave parchment a try.  I can print to parchment easily with my HP 4250 – but I was surprised to see the toner was even less inclined to come off that!  I ironed like crazy to no avail!...

 



Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-05 by duwaynes@...

I have tried several different types of paper, and the best I have found is Color Laser Glossy by Hamermill.  It works well when I used it with a laminator, and also with " cold transfer".
DuWayne
KV4QB.blogspot.com

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-07 by leeleduc@...

It may be your toner. The MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) says your toner is Polyester Resin based. Look up your toner cartridge on this Web site.

http://www.hp.com/hpinfo/globalcitizenship/environment/productdata/ljmsdsuseng.html


I use an HP P1606 that works fine. The toner is Styrene Acrylate Copolymer based.


I've found the Polyester Resin toners don't work very well.

When I look for a printer for Toner Transfer, I take some Glossy Laser paper to Staples or Office Depot and have a demo page printed. I take this home and transfer a small sample to a PCB to see which printers work and which printers don't.

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-08 by duwaynes@...

Almost all the problems I had with using the toner transfer method with a laminator was because of the toner.
With the original toner from two different printer brands worked well, but replacement toner cartridges did not work very well or not at all.  One thing I found that helped was to run the blank board through several times to get it heated before I applied the  paper with the image to be transferred.  Once I switched to the cold method, I have  not had a problem using any type of toner.
DuWayne

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-08 by Brad

I would like to try the cold method but have not had any luck, anywhere, finding ethyl alcohol.  Only isopropyl. 

 

I suspect toner is definitely a problem here.  I’m using ‘compatible’ cartridges, so that only seems logical. 

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 7, 2016 6:24 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

 

 

Almost all the problems I had with using the toner transfer method with a laminator was because of the toner.
With the original toner from two different printer brands worked well, but replacement toner cartridges did not work very well or not at all.  One thing I found that helped was to run the blank board through several times to get it heated before I applied the  paper with the image to be transferred.  Once I switched to the cold method, I have  not had a problem using any type of toner.
DuWayne

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer [2 Attachments]

2016-06-08 by Brad

I’m not sure if my ‘compatible’ toner is made the same way as the HP stuff.  I’m doubtful.  I did try on my Minolta Di200 copier… that made no difference either and that was original, although perhaps it is polyester resin based.

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 7, 2016 4:54 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer [2 Attachments]

 

 

It may be your toner. The MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) says your toner is Polyester Resin based. Look up your toner cartridge on this Web site.

http://www.hp.com/hpinfo/globalcitizenship/environment/productdata/ljmsdsuseng.html


I use an HP P1606 that works fine. The toner is Styrene Acrylate Copolymer based.


I've found the Polyester Resin toners don't work very well.

When I look for a printer for Toner Transfer, I take some Glossy Laser paper to Staples or Office Depot and have a demo page printed. I take this home and transfer a small sample to a PCB to see which printers work and which printers don't.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-08 by Harvey Altstadter

Brad,

The Denatured Alcohol they sell in the hardware or home improvement stores for thinning shellac should do the job.  It is a mixture of ethyl and methyl alcohols, and some other stuff that makes you very sick if you drink it.

I had little success with the mixture of alcohol and acetone. I tried several ratios, with poor results.  I tried pure acetone, and got a very good transfer. The only problem was poor control.  It was hard to tell when to stop the acetone soak before it toner ran all over the place. When I get a chance, I will try some ratios with high acetone. 

Harvey



On 6/7/2016 7:17 PM, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

I would like to try the cold method but have not had any luck, anywhere, finding ethyl alcohol.  Only isopropyl. 

 

I suspect toner is definitely a problem here.  I’m using ‘compatible’ cartridges, so that only seems logical. 

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 7, 2016 6:24 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

 

 

Almost all the problems I had with using the toner transfer method with a laminator was because of the toner.
With the original toner from two different printer brands worked well, but replacement toner cartridges did not work very well or not at all.  One thing I found that helped was to run the blank board through several times to get it heated before I applied the  paper with the image to be transferred.  Once I switched to the cold method, I have  not had a problem using any type of toner.
DuWayne


RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-08 by duwaynes@...

I use a mixture of denatured alcohol and xylene.  Had both from some painting I had been doing and it works well.  About 1 part xylene to 5 parts alcohol.  I printed a test page with various width lines and tried different ratios by painting a little of the mixture on the lines.  You want the mixture to soften the toner and not smear the lines.
DuWayne

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-08 by Cecil Bayona

Try a liquor store.

On 6/7/2016 9:17 PM, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

I would like to try the cold method but have not had any luck, anywhere, finding ethyl alcohol.  Only isopropyl. 

 

I suspect toner is definitely a problem here.  I’m using ‘compatible’ cartridges, so that only seems logical. 

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 7, 2016 6:24 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

 

 

Almost all the problems I had with using the toner transfer method with a laminator was because of the toner.
With the original toner from two different printer brands worked well, but replacement toner cartridges did not work very well or not at all.  One thing I found that helped was to run the blank board through several times to get it heated before I applied the  paper with the image to be transferred.  Once I switched to the cold method, I have  not had a problem using any type of toner.
DuWayne

Posted by: "Brad" <unclefalter@...>












-- 
Cecil - k5nwa
http://thepartsplace.k5nwa.com/

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-08 by Phil Quinton

I've just started using the cold transfer method with good results.

I currently use (in U.K.):

HP Laserjet 4 (with original HP toner)

Xerox A4 Colortech+ Coated (Gloss) Laser paper
Tetrosyl Standard Cellulose Thinners  (from local motor parts store)
Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) - Liquid form, not spray

Ratio is 2:1 thinners to IPA.

I've done two boards now with almost perfect results. It takes a bit of practice to get the timings and ratio's correct.

Thanks,
Phil.

On 08/06/16 04:35, Cecil Bayona cecil.bayona@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

Try a liquor store.

On 6/7/2016 9:17 PM, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

I would like to try the cold method but have not had any luck, anywhere, finding ethyl alcohol.  Only isopropyl. 

 

I suspect toner is definitely a problem here.  I’m using ‘compatible’ cartridges, so that only seems logical. 

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 7, 2016 6:24 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

 

 

Almost all the problems I had with using the toner transfer method with a laminator was because of the toner.
With the original toner from two different printer brands worked well, but replacement toner cartridges did not work very well or not at all.  One thing I found that helped was to run the blank board through several times to get it heated before I applied the  paper with the image to be transferred.  Once I switched to the cold method, I have  not had a problem using any type of toner.
DuWayne

Posted by: "Brad" <unclefalter@...>












-- 
Cecil - k5nwa
http://thepartsplace.k5nwa.com/

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-08 by John Snyder

New to this group, I also am trying to do a pcb for the first time with toner transfer.

 

But I am from the dim state of California and we have been determined by the nanny state to be too stupid to use xylene, Toulene, have ethyl alcohol,  brass pipe fittings, MEK, or decent PVC glue.

 

But as of a few days ago we were still able buy 99% isopropyl alcohol in a gallon at the hardware store, but no longer  in a user friendly pint to clean a few solder joints at the drugstore because the drug makers are buying all the pints to get a gallon or two.?

 

So far I tried a few times with 99% isopropyl alcohol and Acetone at 8:1 but got only partial transfer and did not try any etching

 

Just got a can of denatured alcohol (I did not like the label, a “greener” kind at home depot)  to also try.

Klean-Strip Model # QKGA75003 Internet # 202249513 Store SKU # 519891 1 qt. Green Denatured Alcohol

 

 

 

Thanks for the tip on finding the nature of the toner.

 

I am using a cannon MF6500 printer that seems to have a mixture now but have a few other printers that I can check and try

 

Sty rene acrylate copolymer     70-8%

Wax                                         5-15%

Polyester resin                         5-10%

Carbon black                            1-7%

 

Thanks for the details in this thread so far.

 

 

I am interested in any good or bad, proportions of the California ’s limited chemicals, 99% isopropyl alcohol, “green” denatured alcohol and Acetone that anyone has tried.

 

John

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-08 by rolohar@...

I have had good results with 70% iso-alcohol from Walmart.

The alcohol acts as a cleaner only, So, most types will serve this purpose.

The actual "transfer" medium is the other ingredient.

Good Luck

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.

I use a mixture of denatured alcohol and xylene.  Had both from some painting I had been doing and it works well.  About 1 part xylene to 5 parts alcohol.  I printed a test page with various width lines and tried different ratios by painting a little of the mixture on the lines.  You want the mixture to soften the toner and not smear the lines.

DuWayne


RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-08 by John Snyder

That’s interesting,

Did you use that with Acetone?

Can you please give us the mixture Ratio

and the type of printer / cartridge

and if it was original equipment manufacture or not?

 

John

 




I have had good results with 70% iso-alcohol from Walmart.

 

The alcohol acts as a cleaner only, So, most types will serve this purpose.

 

The actual "transfer" medium is the other ingredient.

 

Good Luck

 

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.

 

Re: People still using toner transfer??? was Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-09 by <n0tt1@...>


I've been lurking too, Chris.  I once tried to use Mucilage glue that
one guy said he likes to use applied to paper and hung to dry....
well, my experience on that was that the paper wrinkles rather
badly 'cuz the glue is wet.
 
I thinking that the gelatin might also wrinkle the paper like the glue
because it is mostly water.  I hope I'm wrong on that (re: the wrinkling).
 
It kind of sounds like the gelatin mix could actually be sprayed on, maybe on
something besides paper to avoid the wrinkling?
 
So, has anybody tried the gelatin on paper yet?
 
Charlie
 
On Sun, 5 Jun 2016 07:00:32 +0000 (UTC) "Chris Tofu indiscreetlogic@... [Homebrew_PCBs]" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> writes:
 

I didn't even think you could buy it.

Been lurking for a while.

Anyway, I attended a informal discussion of a new fandangled method of, technically I guess, toner transfer. Utilizing Knox brand gelatine. Like Jello, but no flava. Let me see if I can remember the procedure.

Whatever the recipe is for plain gelative, use 3x as much water. IIRC one packet requires dissolving in 1/4 cup of cold water, with 1 3/4 cups of boiling subsequently added. So therefore to 1 packet add 3/4 cup cold water, dissolve, then 5 1/4 cups of water, for a total of 6 cups. Now that's a lot of gelatine, so you may want to "cut" the packet into portions w/a razor like a coca cola dealer :). Use your discretion. Just don't snort the stuff.

 Um while still a liquid (presumably it'll stay a liquid, too thin to gel but what do I know), paint with a cheap paint brush on to sheet/s of printer paper. Maybe let it cool a bit before painting? Let dry. When dry, print your artwork onto these sheets (on the Knox side obviously) using a copy machine (I don't remember inkjet printers being acceptable). Then you would iron those sheets onto copper board (using a cloth between iron and sheet), with steam IIRC. I think you could also bake it in the oven for a while to harden it, can't remember the details, maybe 100 degrees for an hour? Most ovens don't go down that low, so improvise I guess.

 I haven't tried it yet, but was told it's basically fool proof. Unlike the standard commercial toner transfer sheets which is so error prone to make it unacceptable. Give it a shot, let the group know. Any questions, feel free to ask, I'll do what I can to answer them.


 

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-09 by Donald H Locker

If you're not using someone else's tried and true recipe (exact same toner, diluent, and acetone), start at 2:1 (alcohol:acetone) and see whether the "runs" or "smears" or if it just transfers. If too much running, double the alcohol (now 4:1). If it transfers just right, you're all done. If 4:1 is too runny, go to 8:1, then 16:1, ... As soon as you have bracketed the ratios (say, between 4:1 and 8:1) divide that interval in half and try --- 6:1! Do another time or two and you will get what you need. You should be able to get perfect transfer within about five tests.

As different toners are made of different plastics, you will have to experiment with the chemicals but the experiments should all be very quick. The more water in the alcohol, the more crinkly you paper will get, btw, so try to get as close to 100% Isopropyl Alcohol or Denature Alcohol (methylated spirits) or straight Methanol as you can. (Ethanol will be very expensive unless you buy cheap unflavoured vodka, in which case you will have a lot of water, and that won't be good. 80 proof means 40% ethanol/60% water.)

The only purpose of the alcohol is to dilute the acetone so it doesn't totally wash away the toner. (One could use water, as acetone is totally miscible with water, but water will mess up the paper's dimensions and curl it all up.)

HTH,
Donald.

----- Original Message -----
> From: "'John Snyder' Kochcal@... [Homebrew_PCBs]" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 8, 2016 1:18:55 PM
> Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer
>
> That's interesting,
>
>
> Did you use that with Acetone?
>
>
> Can you please give us the mixture Ratio
>
>
> and the type of printer / cartridge
>
>
> and if it was original equipment manufacture or not?
>
>
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I have had good results with 70% iso-alcohol from Walmart.
>
>
>
>
>
> The alcohol acts as a cleaner only, So, most types will serve this purpose.
>
>
>
>
>
> The actual "transfer" medium is the other ingredient.
>
>
>
>
>
> Good Luck
>
>
>
>
>
> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97476590/grpId=4505361/grpspId=1705083291/msgId
> =34774/stime=1465398643>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Alcohol

2016-06-09 by rolohar@...

As mentioned previously, the alcohol is used primarily for cleaning the surfaces.
So, almost any type will do that as long as it does not contain any other ingredient.

Take a look at the several "Cold Toner Transfer" videos posted on YouTube.
Explanations are given.

Roland F. Harriston P.D.
*****************************

buy 99% isopropyl alcohol in pints for about $1.50 at pharmacies like Walgreens, CVS, etc. You have to ask the pharmacist for it.



Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-09 by rolohar@...

I just follow the method shown on the YouTube video.

I like the toner transfer method because it seems that I can be very slopply in using it and
still get consistent results.

I don't own a laser printer, so all of my copies are made by a local copy shop, and I
assume that they always use the same type of toner in their machines.

I had good results from their copes when I used the hot transfer method,
but now I use cold. 

I don't make many boards per month, and most of them are less than 4 x 5 inches, so cold transfer is ideal  for me.

Regards,

Roland F. Harriston P.D.



From: "'John Snyder' Kochcal@... [Homebrew_PCBs]" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 8, 2016 10:18:55 AM
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

 

That’s interesting,

Did you use that with Acetone?

Can you please give us the mixture Ratio

and the type of printer / cartridge

and if it was original equipment manufacture or not?

 

John

 




I have had good results with 70% iso-alcohol from Walmart.

 

The alcohol acts as a cleaner only, So, most types will serve this purpose.

 

The actual "transfer" medium is the other ingredient.

 

Good Luck

 

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.

 


Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-09 by rolohar@...

John Snyder:

I just follow the process as shown in the YouTube video.

I played around with xylene, but my wife had problems with the fumes.

There was Walgreen's 70% iso alcohol in the medicine cabinet.......so that's what used
And my wife had some fingernail polish remover (acetone), so that was used.
After she kicked up a fuss about me using her "personal" stuff, I got a quart of
acetone from the Home Depot hardware store paint department.

I just got tired of messing with around with the hot iron and all that stuff.

I go to a copy shop for laser copies.
I supply them with the paper I like to use.

Regards,

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
******************************

That’s interesting,

Did you use that with Acetone?

Can you please give us the mixture Ratio

and the type of printer / cartridge

and if it was original equipment manufacture or not?

 

John

 




I have had good results with 70% iso-alcohol from Walmart.

 

The alcohol acts as a cleaner only, So, most types will serve this purpose.

 

The actual "transfer" medium is the other ingredient.

 

Good Luck

 

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.

 




RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-13 by Brad

Well, I tried the cold transfer method and… yeah.. no dice at all.  Probably my mixture wasn’t working right.

 

Anyway, for sport, I went back to the process I had tried before.  My PCB patterns are bigger than what’s out there on youtube, and I had been printing them on separate pieces of paper.  This time, I printed them together on one piece of magazine paper from Hotrod Magazine (love that magazine).  Then I cleaned the board, let the iron get hotter than the blue blazes of h—ll.. and then went for it.  Spent a good 10 minutes really working the iron – first back and forth nice and slow like a laminator, then faster, on the theory it would keep the paper hot all the way around.  I looked really closely and could kind of see where the toner was coming off the paper a little bit, and really worked the front end of the iron down on spots I thought were suspect.  Then I dunked the whole thing in a tub of cold water and let it sit for 2 minutes.  Anyway, voila!  The result:

 

http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/unclefalter/media/20160612_172825_zpstl1dzy7q.jpg.html

 

So that disproves that my compatible toner won’t work.. at least for the ironing process.  Don’t know if we’ll have a problem when we etch?  But yeah.. it looks really good, I think.  I kind of figured the problem was ‘operator error’ here since 80%+ was coming off on my previous tries. 

 

Now that I sort of have a procedure that works I think I’ll keep at it and get my other patterns done.  Lots of Hotrods lying around. J

 

Brad

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-13 by Forbes, Doug

My problem isn't getting the toner to transfer well, it's etching. Lots of pinholes. The toner is too porous. I've tried the lighter fluid method of fixing the toner but no workie. The foil method will probably work if I can get the stuff hot enough to transfer. I am using original HP toner. Any thoughts ?

Doug Forbes


From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2016 5:41 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

 

Well, I tried the cold transfer method and… yeah.. no dice at all.  Probably my mixture wasn’t working right.

 

Anyway, for sport, I went back to the process I had tried before.  My PCB patterns are bigger than what’s out there on youtube, and I had been printing them on separate pieces of paper.  This time, I printed them together on one piece of magazine paper from Hotrod Magazine (love that magazine).  Then I cleaned the board, let the iron get hotter than the blue blazes of h—ll.. and then went for it.  Spent a good 10 minutes really working the iron – first back and forth nice and slow like a laminator, then faster, on the theory it would keep the paper hot all the way around.  I looked really closely and could kind of see where the toner was coming off the paper a little bit, and really worked the front end of the iron down on spots I thought were suspect.  Then I dunked the whole thing in a tub of cold water and let it sit for 2 minutes.  Anyway, voila!  The result:

 

http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/unclefalter/media/20160612_172825_zpstl1dzy7q.jpg.html

 

So that disproves that my compatible toner won’t work.. at least for the ironing process.  Don’t know if we’ll have a problem when we etch?  But yeah.. it looks really good, I think.  I kind of figured the problem was ‘operator error’ here since 80%+ was coming off on my previous tries. 

 

Now that I sort of have a procedure that works I think I’ll keep at it and get my other patterns done.  Lots of Hotrods lying around. J

 

Brad

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-13 by Harvey White

On Mon, 13 Jun 2016 15:18:04 +0000, you wrote:

>My problem isn't getting the toner to transfer well, it's etching. Lots of pinholes. The toner is too porous. I've tried the lighter fluid method of fixing the toner but no workie. The foil method will probably work if I can get the stuff hot enough to transfer. I am using original HP toner. Any thoughts ?

I use a GBC laminator and green foil. The unmodified GBC laminator
does not have a temperature adjustment, and I use it on thinner (0.020
thick) boards. Thicker boards will need more heat possibly. When
using another laminator, I use the foil setting, which is the hottest
one.

I run the boards through twice. The foil should be completely
transparent when removed (and I let it cool completely) over the parts
where it should have transferred.

Every once and a while it really screws up, don't quite know why. May
be insufficient heat.

Not sure that people who use irons get a decent transfer, perhaps on
smaller boards. I've done boards almost 4 * 6 with laminators and
toner transfer. I can get generally less than 5 errors (pits) in a
board, but I do have to look at each board carefully for transfer
errors.

Harvey

>
>
>Doug Forbes
>
>
>________________________________
>From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
>Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2016 5:41 PM
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer
>
>
>
>
>Well, I tried the cold transfer method and… yeah.. no dice at all. Probably my mixture wasn’t working right.
>
>
>Anyway, for sport, I went back to the process I had tried before. My PCB patterns are bigger than what’s out there on youtube, and I had been printing them on separate pieces of paper. This time, I printed them together on one piece of magazine paper from Hotrod Magazine (love that magazine). Then I cleaned the board, let the iron get hotter than the blue blazes of h—ll.. and then went for it. Spent a good 10 minutes really working the iron – first back and forth nice and slow like a laminator, then faster, on the theory it would keep the paper hot all the way around. I looked really closely and could kind of see where the toner was coming off the paper a little bit, and really worked the front end of the iron down on spots I thought were suspect. Then I dunked the whole thing in a tub of cold water and let it sit for 2 minutes. Anyway, voila! The result:
>
>
>http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/unclefalter/media/20160612_172825_zpstl1dzy7q.jpg.html
>
>
>So that disproves that my compatible toner won’t work.. at least for the ironing process. Don’t know if we’ll have a problem when we etch? But yeah.. it looks really good, I think. I kind of figured the problem was ‘operator error’ here since 80%+ was coming off on my previous tries.
>
>
>Now that I sort of have a procedure that works I think I’ll keep at it and get my other patterns done. Lots of Hotrods lying around. :)
>
>
>Brad
>
>
>

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-13 by Mark Lerman

You might want to try suspending the pcb in acetone vapor before etching. I don't use toner transfer, but I do use toner as a resist. If you suspend it over acetone, in the vapor, the toner seems to "melt" and covers small pinholes. I usually leave it in the vapor for 20-30 minutes.

Mark


At 11:18 AM 6/13/2016, you wrote:


My problem isn't getting the toner to transfer well, it's etching. Lots of pinholes. The toner is too porous. I've tried the lighter fluid method of fixing the toner but no workie. The foil method will probably work if I can get the stuff hot enough to transfer. I am using original HP toner. Any thoughts ?

Doug Forbes

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2016 5:41 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

 

Well, I tried the cold transfer method and… yeah.. no dice at all.  Probably my mixture wasnâ’t working right.

 

Anyway, for sport, I went back to the process I had tried before.  My PCB patterns are bigger than what’s out there on youtube, and I had been printing them on separate pieces of paper.  This time, I printed them together on one piece of magazine paper from Hotrod Magazine (love that magazine).  Then I cleaned the board, let the iron get hotter than the blue blazes of h—ll.. and then went for it.  Spent a good 10 minutes really working the iron – first back and forth nice andd slow like a laminator, then faster, on the theory it would keep the paper hot all the way around.  I looked really closely and could kind of see where the toner was coming off the paper a little bit, and really worked the front end of the iron down on spots I thought were suspect.  Then I dunked the whole thing in a tub of cold water and let it sit for 2 minutes.  Anyway, voila!  The result:

 

http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/unclefalter/media/20160612_172825_zpstl1dzy7q.jpg.html

 

So that disproves that my compatible toner won’t work.. at least for the ironing process.  Don’t know if we’ll have a problem when we etch?  But yeah.. it looks really good, I think.  I kind of figured the problem was ‘operator error’ here since 80%+ was coming off on my previous tries. 

 

Now that I sort of have a procedure that works I think I’ll keep at it and get my other patterns done.  Lots of Hotrods lying around. J

 

Brad



Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-14 by <n0tt1@...>


Maybe the toner isn't printing "heavy" enough on the
paper?....try increasing the toner density.
 
Charlie
 
 

>My problem isn't getting the toner to transfer well, it's etching.
Lots of pinholes. The toner is too porous. I've tried the lighter fluid method of fixing the toner but no workie. The foil method will probably work if I can get the stuff hot enough to transfer. I am using original HP toner. Any thoughts ?
 
 
 
Doug Forbes
 
 
 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2016 5:41 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer
 

 
 
Well, I tried the cold transfer method and… yeah.. no dice at all.  Probably my mixture wasn’t working right.
 
 
 
Anyway, for sport, I went back to the process I had tried before.  My PCB patterns are bigger than what’s out there on youtube, and I had been printing them on separate pieces of paper.  This time, I printed them together on one piece of magazine paper from Hotrod Magazine (love that magazine).  Then I cleaned the board, let the iron get hotter than the blue blazes of h—ll.. and then went for it.  Spent a good 10 minutes really working the iron – first back and forth nice and slow like a laminator, then faster, on the theory it would keep the paper hot all the way around.  I looked really closely and could kind of see where the toner was coming off the paper a little bit, and really worked the front end of the iron down on spots I thought were suspect.  Then I dunked the whole thing in a tub of cold water and let it sit for 2 minutes.  Anyway, voila!  The result:
 
 
 
 
 
 
So that disproves that my compatible toner won’t work.. at least for the ironing process.  Don’t know if we’ll have a problem when we etch?  But yeah.. it looks really good, I think.  I kind of figured the problem was ‘operator error’ here since 80%+ was coming off on my previous tries. 
 
 
 
Now that I sort of have a procedure that works I think I’ll keep at it and get my other patterns done.  Lots of Hotrods lying around. J
 
 
 
Brad
 
 
 

 
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RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-15 by Brad

Here’s a weird one.

 

You guys saw my successful transfer image – with two of the four boards required to build a TV Typewriter shown.  Those print perfectly onto magazine paper via my Laserjet 4250.  But for some reason, the motherboard won’t.  The motherboard is twice the size of the other boards and it has relatively large black traces that span long distances.  For reasons I can’t figure out, when I print it to the magazine paper, it comes out with some traces faded.. ie. not enough toner.  Usually around the same spot.  Yet if I print it with regular paper.. it’s fine.  Not sure what the remedy would be here but I’m open to suggestions.  Not being able to print the mainboard is a bit of a problem.

 

Brad

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-15 by hrconsult

Brad,

The thing that comes to my mind is the difference in the paper. Regular printer paper usually has a controlled moisture content. Of course, the longer the package is open, the less it is controlled. The magazine paper is uncontrolled, and perhaps it is uneven in moisture content. The higher the moisture content, the poorer the print. You might consider baking the paper in your oven on low heat for a while. Clearly I have no clue as to how long.
 






Happy Connecting. Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S® 5


-------- Original message --------
From: "'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs]" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 6/14/16 7:32 PM (GMT-07:00)
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

 

Here’s a weird one.

 

You guys saw my successful transfer image – with two of the four boards required to build a TV Typewriter shown.  Those print perfectly onto magazine paper via my Laserjet 4250.  But for some reason, the motherboard won’t.  The motherboard is twice the size of the other boards and it has relatively large black traces that span long distances.  For reasons I can’t figure out, when I print it to the magazine paper, it comes out with some traces faded.. ie. not enough toner.  Usually around the same spot.  Yet if I print it with regular paper.. it’s fine.  Not sure what the remedy would be here but I’m open to suggestions.  Not being able to print the mainboard is a bit of a problem.

 

Brad

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-15 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg

You could try a paper meant for the job, just takes a while to arrive,but is not expensive see:
<http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10PCS-A4-Sheets-Heat-Toner-Transfer-Paper-For-DIY-PCB-Electronic-Prototype-Mak-/141839288198?hash=item210647c786:g:BnsAAOSwwE5WWUn~>

Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 6/15/16, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, June 15, 2016, 3:32 AM


 









Here’s a weird one.  You guys saw my successful
transfer image – with two of the four boards required to
build a TV Typewriter shown.  Those print perfectly onto
magazine paper via my Laserjet 4250.  But for some reason,
the motherboard won’t.  The motherboard is twice the size
of the other boards and it has relatively large black traces
that span long distances.  For reasons I can’t figure
out, when I print it to the magazine paper, it comes out
with some traces faded.. ie. not enough toner.  Usually
around the same spot.  Yet if I print it with regular
paper.. it’s fine.  Not sure what the remedy would be
here but I’m open to suggestions.  Not being able to
print the mainboard is a bit of a problem.  Brad









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RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-15 by wb8nbs@...

Do the same traces print lighter on regular paper? Sometimes the toner inside the cartridge is used up unevenly after some usage. Try removing the cartridge and gently rocking it to help the toner powder distribute more evenly. Print a couple of pages after that to make sure there's no clumps on the drum, then try your PCB pattern again.

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-15 by Brad

No.. they print dark.  I’m not sure if it’s some kind of weird illusion with the magazine paper.  I’m going to try an ironing with one later and see what actually transpires.

 

I have another question – I did another transfer of some of the smaller boards I needed – and it looks great except just a couple of tiny spots.  Looking at pictures of the original boards from SWTPC, it looked like they solved these issues by simply bridging solder.  But I’m wondering if there’s another way.. is there anything equivalent to ‘touch up paint’ I could apply to spots where the traces are or risk being broken to stop the etchant there?

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 6:44 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

 

 

Do the same traces print lighter on regular paper? Sometimes the toner inside the cartridge is used up unevenly after some usage. Try removing the cartridge and gently rocking it to help the toner powder distribute more evenly. Print a couple of pages after that to make sure there's no clumps on the drum, then try your PCB pattern again.

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-15 by Brad

I did order some of that stuff.. and yeah, it takes a while – stuff from China usually is 8 weeks.  Ugh!  Be interesting to see how it differs from the magazine paper.

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 5:34 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

 

 

You could try a paper meant for the job, just takes a while to arrive,but is not expensive see:
<http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10PCS-A4-Sheets-Heat-Toner-Transfer-Paper-For-DIY-PCB-Electronic-Prototype-Mak-/141839288198?hash=item210647c786:g:BnsAAOSwwE5WWUn~>

Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 6/15/16, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, June 15, 2016, 3:32 AM


 









Here’s a weird one.  You guys saw my successful
transfer image – with two of the four boards required to
build a TV Typewriter shown.  Those print perfectly onto
magazine paper via my Laserjet 4250.  But for some reason,
the motherboard won’t.  The motherboard is twice the size
of the other boards and it has relatively large black traces
that span long distances.  For reasons I can’t figure
out, when I print it to the magazine paper, it comes out
with some traces faded.. ie. not enough toner.  Usually
around the same spot.  Yet if I print it with regular
paper.. it’s fine.  Not sure what the remedy would be
here but I’m open to suggestions.  Not being able to
print the mainboard is a bit of a problem.  Brad









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RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-15 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg

Brad

If you have a female companion, nail varnish and a 20 hair brush can be used to touch up missing toner on the PCB. I use a cheap spray can of car paint, spray it in the cap and load the brush from that. Then, using two pairs of reading glasses, (unless you are not old and wrinkley) touch up the board.


Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 6/15/16, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, June 15, 2016, 4:24 PM


 









No.. they print dark.  I’m not
sure if it’s some kind of weird illusion with the magazine
paper.  I’m going to try an ironing with one later and
see what actually transpires.  I have another question – I did
another transfer of some of the smaller boards I needed –
and it looks great except just a couple of tiny spots. 
Looking at pictures of the original boards from SWTPC, it
looked like they solved these issues by simply bridging
solder.  But I’m wondering if there’s another way.. is
there anything equivalent to ‘touch up paint’ I could
apply to spots where the traces are or risk being broken to
stop the etchant there?  From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 6:44
AM
To:
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First
attempt at toner transfer    Do the same traces print
lighter on regular paper? Sometimes the toner inside the
cartridge is used up unevenly after some usage. Try removing
the cartridge and gently rocking it to help the toner powder
distribute more evenly. Print a couple of pages after that
to make sure there's no clumps on the drum, then try
your PCB pattern again.










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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer

2016-06-15 by rolohar@...

DUH

"Press-N-Peel (by Technics) is available from U.S. sellers like All Electronics in California.
Several others have it.

Consistent quality material made for a specific purpose.
 Better than farting around with "Rube Goldberg" stuff.

The material, technique, etc. are clearly delineated and not too difficult to follow.

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
***************************

I did order some of that stuff.. and yeah, it takes a while – stuff from China usually is 8 weeks.  Ugh!  Be interesting to see how it differs from the magazine paper.

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]

Malcolm


I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir


--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 6/15/16, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] First attempt at toner transfer
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, June 15, 2016, 3:32 AM



 










Here’s a weird one.  You guys saw my successful
transfer image – with two of the four boards required to
build a TV Typewriter shown.  Those print perfectly onto
magazine paper via my Laserjet 4250.  But for some reason,
the motherboard won’t.  The motherboard is twice the size
of the other boards and it has relatively large black traces
that span long distances.  For reasons I can’t figure
out, when I print it to the magazine paper, it comes out
with some traces faded.. ie. not enough toner.  Usually
around the same spot.  Yet if I print it with regular
paper.. it’s fine.  Not sure what the remedy would be
here but I’m open to suggestions.  Not being able to
print the mainboard is a bit of a problem.  Brad










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