Homebrew PCBs

Did you include a video link?

> On Jan 22, 2016, at 4:24 PM, alan00463@yahoo.com [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> 
> Does anybody in the USA know where I can buy a guillotine cutter like the one shown in this video (it's about halfway through at 7:35), for cutting copperclad boards?
> 
>

That looks very much like the one that I use based on the short time 
I could see it.

I use a "Roberts Quik-Cut Vinyl Tile Cutter Model No # 30002"  that I 
bought off ebay.  Do a search and you will find all kinds of prices 
and knockoffs.
I got mine for less than $4 but the shipping was like $15 so make 
sure of what your looking at.

Art
Country Bubba


        At 08:38 PM 1/22/2016, you wrote:

>OOPS!   Now who forgot to proofread!    Yeah, me.   Sorry..... Here's the URL
>
><https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4paArvuYrs>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4paArvuYrs
>
>"Does anybody in the USA know where I can buy a guillotine cutter 
>like the one shown in this video (it's about halfway through at 
>7:35), for cutting copperclad boards?"
>
>
>
>----------
>Posted by: alan00463@...
>
>----------

Where I used to work they used a metal shear like you cut a sheet of steel with by stepping on a pedal. They used to put the boards in an oven first maybe 150 degrees I don’t remember but it made them cut better without breaking

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] 
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2016 8:57 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Guillotine cutter

 

  

I use a brake I purchased at Harbor Freight for about $30.   Just score the copper and snap. Safer than a guillotine and many times safer than a table saw.

Keith,
That make sense as 150 degrees is about the glass transition temperature of regular FR4.
That was most likely to make clean cuts versus zillions of tiny glass shards when shearing.

Just my $0.02,
Jean-Paul
N1JPL

> On Jan 22, 2016, at 9:25 PM, 'keith printy' keethpr@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Where I used to work they used a metal shear like you cut a sheet of steel with by stepping on a pedal. They used to put the boards in an oven first maybe 150 degrees I don’t remember but it made them cut better without breaking
> 
>  
> 
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] 
> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2016 8:57 PM
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Guillotine cutter
> 
>  
> 
>   
> 
> I use a brake I purchased at Harbor Freight for about $30.   Just score the copper and snap. Safer than a guillotine and many times safer than a table saw.
> 
> 
> 
>

For many years I used a carbide tile cutting scribe to score/snap PCBs. 
But with thinner PCBs they bend and distort. So a shear might be better. 
But they do NOT work on FR1 boards which are more rigid and more flat.

I recently switched to this 4" desktop saw for more precision and faster 
'production' type work as I am starting a kit series.

The diamond blade is awesome and the product captures the dust by using 
it in the same box it came in - cut down to access the table.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AEZ70AO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

PCB distortion and dimensional precision is critical when trying to 
build cavity filters etc.

Ancel

I have one since quite a number of years. To cut a few PCB'sit is 
expensive but I never tried as I cut them with a little table saw.!

Here I can cut and bend aluminum sheets up to 1.5mm thickness. The 
cutting quality is good. The bending at 90 deg angle is tedious to 
following the marking on the sheet and in fact does not bend completely 
at 90 degrees on a 1.5mm thickness, a bit better on 1mm thickness.

The handles are not the best for using the device as I have to knock on 
them with the palm of my hands because the lever is not long enough for 
the strength needed. I had to turn the two in aluminum.

All in all not a bad device if one is getting used to it and nice for 
relatively small pieces.

Jean-Claude

Am 24.01.2016 um 22:24 schrieb alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs]:

>
> I found this PCB board cutter for a little less,
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Combination-3-in-1-Sheet-Metal-Machine/T21320
> But weighs 114 #, so freight makes up a bunch of the price difference.
> Not sure--is 22 gauge steel thick enough to cut PCB's?   I don't know 
> the 22 gauge.    Plus it bends as well as shears.   And slip rolls, 
> whatever that means.     But I wouldn't buy it without a personal 
> recommendation.
>
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> P

imo, if you spend the money buy a brake, not a multifunction machine.


If you can afford the expense, and do some metal bending work too, 
invest in a finger brake.
12"    http://grizzly.com/products/12-Pan-and-Box-Brake/G0556
24"    http://grizzly.com/products/24-Pan-and-Box-Brake/G0557


Or for very intermittent use
http://grizzly.com/products/4-Vise-Brake/H3243 (they offer 5 & 6 inch 
versions too)


Corey

On 1/24/2016 4:24 PM, alan00463@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
>
>
> I found this PCB board cutter for a little less,
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Combination-3-in-1-Sheet-Metal-Machine/T21320
> But weighs 114 #, so freight makes up a bunch of the price difference.
> Not sure--is 22 gauge steel thick enough to cut PCB's?   I don't know 
> the 22 gauge.    Plus it bends as well as shears.   And slip rolls, 
> whatever that means.     But I wouldn't buy it without a personal 
> recommendation.
>
>