Homebrew_PCBs

Hi folks,
I have been testing Epson S041126 Photo Quality Glossy Paper and it
seems to work OK. Printer is Lexmark E220, High Contrast setting.
I use 320 grit watersanding and clean with acetone. I use std
household iron, max heat for 1m30s with a heavy paper as *guard*
between iron and photopaper. Immerse in handwarm water until paper
backing comes off. So far only tested on boards with wide tracks on a
powerboard, not so clean edges but I think this is paper residue
causing this. Have to learn how to *clean* away all paper backing
etc. before etching.

It is easy to do, but if it will work on fineline boards - I dont
know as I havent tested this yet.

Bengt

bsjoelund wrote:

> Hi folks,
> I have been testing Epson S041126 Photo Quality Glossy Paper and it
> seems to work OK. Printer is Lexmark E220, High Contrast setting.
> I use 320 grit watersanding and clean with acetone. I use std
> household iron, max heat for 1m30s with a heavy paper as *guard*
> between iron and photopaper. Immerse in handwarm water until paper
> backing comes off. So far only tested on boards with wide tracks on a
> powerboard, not so clean edges but I think this is paper residue
> causing this. Have to learn how to *clean* away all paper backing
> etc. before etching.
>
> It is easy to do, but if it will work on fineline boards - I dont
> know as I havent tested this yet.
>
> Bengt

Nope, your rough edges are much more likely to be only partial toner
bonding.

First things first, 320 grit sandpaper is a bit much. A plastic
fiber type scouring pad for pots is a much better item, in the medium
roughness or so. If you have to use sandpaper use 600 or better.

If you're getting easy good peels then fine, if not then fusing the
image/paper a second or third time will improve the results.

You should also need no guard paper, only the backing paper of the
print paper. Adding an extra layer of paper between them will reduce
the total heat since it's extra insulation. 1m30s might even be a bit
short with just the one paper, adding that guard probably made it where
you had about 30 seconds of heat. Note that the toner has to make it to
the 160 deg F range to even start to melt and stick.

You also don't have to immerse till the paper falls apart, I'm
peeling within a minute of getting it wet. Does take the extra fusing
and a good melt to do it like this though and not peel the toner.

Alan