Anyone milling PCBs?
2015-12-31 by me@...
Yahoo Groups archive
Archive for Homebrew_PCBs.
Index last updated: 2026-03-30 01:05 UTC
Thread
2015-12-31 by me@...
2015-12-31 by Cristian
>I do.
>
>Is anyone out there milling PCBs? My new CNC 3020 is on its way
>along with an Arduino controller and I have a number of
>questions. Before I post them just wanted to make sure I am in the
>right place. :)
2015-12-31 by Dave Wade
Built a milling attachment for my 3D printer but not yet made any PCBs. Been looking at a CNC3040 so me interested to hear how you get on…
Dave
G4UGM
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: 31 December 2015 16:23
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Anyone milling PCBs?
Is anyone out there milling PCBs? My new CNC 3020 is on its way along with an Arduino controller and I have a number of questions. Before I post them just wanted to make sure I am in the right place. :)
2015-12-31 by Boots Hughston
On Dec 31, 2015, at 8:22 AM, me@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Is anyone out there milling PCBs? My new CNC 3020 is on its way along with an Arduino controller and I have a number of questions. Before I post them just wanted to make sure I am in the right place. :)
2015-12-31 by me@...
2015-12-31 by me@...
2016-01-02 by Bob Butcher
2016-01-02 by me@...
2016-01-03 by Harvey White
>Didn't see my post maybe there is a delay? Anyway I will restate my questions since they are open to everyone.TurboCNC also works with a parallel port in a minimal (DOS)
>
>What software to use to control the mill? I considered Mach3 but it has two problems. First it only works with a parallel port from what I understand.
>I need USB.USB has no guaranteed delivery time, and sends when the CPU gets
>From what I understand there are USB controllers that might work with mach3? But most important the Free version of Mach3 is really limited on the steps it can process.The reason for a USB controller is to generate the pulses in hardware
>No idea, I've messed with rolling my own, using an FPGA for timing. In
>I figure I will use one of those Arduino controllers. Already have one on order. I thought I would use Universal GCode Sender. Are there better affordable options?
2016-01-03 by keith printy
If you are using a desktop pc ,you could always install a parallel port. I have an old laser printer that required one and all I had was usb. The board I installed also gave me serial ports and was maybe about $30
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2016 9:43 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Anyone milling PCBs?
On 31 Dec 2015 13:15:11 -0800, you wrote:
>Didn't see my post maybe there is a delay? Anyway I will restate my questions since they are open to everyone.TurboCNC also works with a parallel port in a minimal (DOS)
>
>What software to use to control the mill? I considered Mach3 but it has two problems. First it only works with a parallel port from what I understand.
>I need USB.USB has no guaranteed delivery time, and sends when the CPU gets
>From what I understand there are USB controllers that might work with mach3? But most important the Free version of Mach3 is really limited on the steps it can process.The reason for a USB controller is to generate the pulses in hardware
>No idea, I've messed with rolling my own, using an FPGA for timing. In
>I figure I will use one of those Arduino controllers. Already have one on order. I thought I would use Universal GCode Sender. Are there better affordable options?
2016-01-03 by Bob Butcher
2016-01-03 by Bob Butcher
2016-01-03 by Aaron Turner
On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 11:39 AM, Bob Butcher bbutcher85@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:I purchased BobCad CAM a couple of years ago, and find it very helpful. All you need to do is define the origin when starting a layout (I use the left rear corner of the board) and move your tool to that position and set X & Y to zero. BobCad CAM is quite expensive (I paid $800), but I do quite a bit of CNC machining in metal as well, so it does save a lot of time. I am using Mach3 to run my milling machine, and BobCad CAM has a post processor that makes it easy to create GCode files. BobCad CAM allows you to chose a toolpath and a tool and if you need to change tools, you can add a few lines of code to the NC file to remind you to change tools at the correct time. Mach3 does include a CAM converter called EasyCam, but I have not tried it. There is a learning curve to using the software, but that is always true to some extent.Before I purchased BobCad and Mach3, I used a JAVA program that I wrote to convert DXF files to native Galil code which I could run using my Galil DMC 1850 interface board in my PC. It was quite time consuming to do this conversion,. but it did work most of the time.For very simple boards you could probably manually write your own GCode, but that will sometimes lead to errors and broken tools or destroyed boards when you make a mistake.If you have a program to create DXF files of the layout, you can open them in any program that reads text and extract the co-ordinates easily (well maybe not so easily). Try opening a DXF file sometime and search for ENTITIES. The text following that keyword has all the information you need, but it can be a bit of a job to interpret. For example a series of lines reading:LINE56E03301F100AcDbEntity8ROW1100AcDbLine10-0.1750000000000043201.830865704890999300.011-0.1750000000000131213.136198601993994310.00First this is a line. The layer is ROW1 if you care. The number 10 means the next line of data contains the starting X value,The number 20 means the next line of data contains the starting Y value, The number 30 means the next line of data contains the starting Z value. The number 11 means the next line of data contains the ending X value,The number 21 means the next line of data contains the ending Y value, The number 31 means the next line of data contains the ending Z value.So this is a line from point -0.1750000000000043, 1.830865704890999, 0.0 to -0.1750000000000131, 3.136198601993994, 0.0The final entry of zero indented one space means the end of that entity.Circles and Arcs get kind of weird, since the DXF standard uses starting point, radius, and bulge to define am arc. I avoid curved lines and pads in my layout when trying to interpret DXF files.If you really want to pursue this subject, you can Google DXF and find the protocol used to define various items.Another potential (or real) problem is the DXF file lists the entities in the order drawn in your CAD program, so any motion may not be optimized very well. Another pitfall in hand coding is that you need to manually determine when to raise and lower the tool. Typically I lower the tool and cut a full island, then raise the tool for the move to the next island start.
2016-01-04 by Brad Thompson
> I'm curious- has anyone tried using Fusion360 for CAD/CAM for millingHello--
> PCB's? I've used Fusion360 with great results for designing parts for
> my 3D printer and it includes a pretty decent CAM module I'm told.
> And unlike BobCAD, it's free if you make less then $100k/year using
> the software which makes it a great choice for non-professionals.
>
2016-01-04 by Tony Smith
> On 1/3/2016 6:05 PM, Aaron Turner synfinatic@... [Homebrew_PCBs]I doubt it would be fine enough. That said are people doing 3D-ish printers where they print the traces instead using that silver conductive paint or similar, so who knows.
> wrote:
> > I'm curious- has anyone tried using Fusion360 for CAD/CAM for milling
> > PCB's? I've used Fusion360 with great results for designing parts for
> > my 3D printer and it includes a pretty decent CAM module I'm told.
> > And unlike BobCAD, it's free if you make less then $100k/year using
> > the software which makes it a great choice for non-professionals.
> >
> Hello--
>
> I inquired about this topic (deposition of plastic extruded resist directly onto
> copperclad board via 3-D printer) a while ago. Has anyone recently
> experimented with this approach? It's the inverse of a subtractive (milling)
> process, but the CAD/CAM software should equally well apply.
>
>
> Thanks, and 73--
>
> Brad AA1IP
2016-01-04 by <n0tt1@...>
> On 1/3/2016 6:05 PM, Aaron Turner synfinatic@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
> wrote:
> > I'm curious- has anyone tried using Fusion360 for CAD/CAM for milling
> > PCB's? I've used Fusion360 with great results for designing parts for
> > my 3D printer and it includes a pretty decent CAM module I'm told.
> > And unlike BobCAD, it's free if you make less then $100k/year using
> > the software which makes it a great choice for non-professionals.
> >
> Hello--
>
> I inquired about this topic (deposition of plastic extruded resist directly onto
> copperclad board via 3-D printer) a while ago. Has anyone recently
> experimented with this approach? It's the inverse of a subtractive (milling)
> process, but the CAD/CAM software should equally well apply.
>
>
> Thanks, and 73--
>
> Brad AA1IP
I doubt it would be fine enough. That said are people doing 3D-ish printers where they print the traces instead using that silver conductive paint or similar, so who knows.
People have tried to print either the resist or traces directly onto copper board with inkjet printers with little success.
Mark (?) on this list managed to laser print directly onto copper which surprised me.
I've been meaning to try the 'spray board with paint and laser it off' method. Diptrace will export a file suitable for milling (isolation traces) that will work for lasering. Should be fairly simple and fast, certainly quieter than a mill.
Tony
2016-01-04 by Bob Butcher
On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 11:39 AM, Bob Butcher bbutcher85@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:I purchased BobCad CAM a couple of years ago, and find it very helpful. All you need to do is define the origin when starting a layout (I use the left rear corner of the board) and move your tool to that position and set X & Y to zero. BobCad CAM is quite expensive (I paid $800), but I do quite a bit of CNC machining in metal as well, so it does save a lot of time. I am using Mach3 to run my milling machine, and BobCad CAM has a post processor that makes it easy to create GCode files. BobCad CAM allows you to chose a toolpath and a tool and if you need to change tools, you can add a few lines of code to the NC file to remind you to change tools at the correct time. Mach3 does include a CAM converter called EasyCam, but I have not tried it. There is a learning curve to using the software, but that is always true to some extent.Before I purchased BobCad and Mach3, I used a JAVA program that I wrote to convert DXF files to native Galil code which I could run using my Galil DMC 1850 interface board in my PC. It was quite time consuming to do this conversion,. but it did work most of the time.For very simple boards you could probably manually write your own GCode, but that will sometimes lead to errors and broken tools or destroyed boards when you make a mistake.If you have a program to create DXF files of the layout, you can open them in any program that reads text and extract the co-ordinates easily (well maybe not so easily). Try opening a DXF file sometime and search for ENTITIES. The text following that keyword has all the information you need, but it can be a bit of a job to interpret. For example a series of lines reading:LINE56E03301F100AcDbEntity8ROW1100AcDbLine10-0.1750000000000043201.830865704890999300.011-0.1750000000000131213.136198601993994310.00First this is a line. The layer is ROW1 if you care. The number 10 means the next line of data contains the starting X value,The number 20 means the next line of data contains the starting Y value, The number 30 means the next line of data contains the starting Z value. The number 11 means the next line of data contains the ending X value,The number 21 means the next line of data contains the ending Y value, The number 31 means the next line of data contains the ending Z value.So this is a line from point -0.1750000000000043, 1.830865704890999, 0.0 to -0.1750000000000131, 3.136198601993994, 0.0The final entry of zero indented one space means the end of that entity.Circles and Arcs get kind of weird, since the DXF standard uses starting point, radius, and bulge to define am arc. I avoid curved lines and pads in my layout when trying to interpret DXF files.If you really want to pursue this subject, you can Google DXF and find the protocol used to define various items.Another potential (or real) problem is the DXF file lists the entities in the order drawn in your CAD program, so any motion may not be optimized very well. Another pitfall in hand coding is that you need to manually determine when to raise and lower the tool. Typically I lower the tool and cut a full island, then raise the tool for the move to the next island start.
2016-01-04 by Bob Butcher
On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 11:39 AM, Bob Butcher bbutcher85@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:I purchased BobCad CAM a couple of years ago, and find it very helpful. All you need to do is define the origin when starting a layout (I use the left rear corner of the board) and move your tool to that position and set X & Y to zero. BobCad CAM is quite expensive (I paid $800), but I do quite a bit of CNC machining in metal as well, so it does save a lot of time. I am using Mach3 to run my milling machine, and BobCad CAM has a post processor that makes it easy to create GCode files. BobCad CAM allows you to chose a toolpath and a tool and if you need to change tools, you can add a few lines of code to the NC file to remind you to change tools at the correct time. Mach3 does include a CAM converter called EasyCam, but I have not tried it. There is a learning curve to using the software, but that is always true to some extent.Before I purchased BobCad and Mach3, I used a JAVA program that I wrote to convert DXF files to native Galil code which I could run using my Galil DMC 1850 interface board in my PC. It was quite time consuming to do this conversion,. but it did work most of the time.For very simple boards you could probably manually write your own GCode, but that will sometimes lead to errors and broken tools or destroyed boards when you make a mistake.If you have a program to create DXF files of the layout, you can open them in any program that reads text and extract the co-ordinates easily (well maybe not so easily). Try opening a DXF file sometime and search for ENTITIES. The text following that keyword has all the information you need, but it can be a bit of a job to interpret. For example a series of lines reading:LINE56E03301F100AcDbEntity8ROW1100AcDbLine10-0.1750000000000043201.830865704890999300.011-0.1750000000000131213.136198601993994310.00First this is a line. The layer is ROW1 if you care. The number 10 means the next line of data contains the starting X value,The number 20 means the next line of data contains the starting Y value, The number 30 means the next line of data contains the starting Z value. The number 11 means the next line of data contains the ending X value,The number 21 means the next line of data contains the ending Y value, The number 31 means the next line of data contains the ending Z value.So this is a line from point -0.1750000000000043, 1.830865704890999, 0.0 to -0.1750000000000131, 3.136198601993994, 0.0The final entry of zero indented one space means the end of that entity.Circles and Arcs get kind of weird, since the DXF standard uses starting point, radius, and bulge to define am arc. I avoid curved lines and pads in my layout when trying to interpret DXF files.If you really want to pursue this subject, you can Google DXF and find the protocol used to define various items.Another potential (or real) problem is the DXF file lists the entities in the order drawn in your CAD program, so any motion may not be optimized very well. Another pitfall in hand coding is that you need to manually determine when to raise and lower the tool. Typically I lower the tool and cut a full island, then raise the tool for the move to the next island start.
2016-01-04 by Tony Smith
No worse than the rest of the stuff I set fire to in the lasers. (Lasers cutters tend to have good fume extraction – if they don’t you soon add it.)
Tony
But then you have to deal with the fumes from burning paint.
73,
Charlie
On Mon, 4 Jan 2016 22:51:43 +1100 "'Tony Smith' ajsmith1968@... [Homebrew_PCBs]" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> writes:
> On 1/3/2016 6:05 PM, Aaron Turner synfinatic@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
> wrote:
> > I'm curious- has anyone tried using Fusion360 for CAD/CAM for milling
> > PCB's? I've used Fusion360 with great results for designing parts for
> > my 3D printer and it includes a pretty decent CAM module I'm told.
> > And unlike BobCAD, it's free if you make less then $100k/year using
> > the software which makes it a great choice for non-professionals.
> >
> Hello--
>
> I inquired about this topic (deposition of plastic extruded resist directly onto
> copperclad board via 3-D printer) a while ago. Has anyone recently
> experimented with this approach? It's the inverse of a subtractive (milling)
> process, but the CAD/CAM software should equally well apply.
>
>
> Thanks, and 73--
>
> Brad AA1IP
I doubt it would be fine enough. That said are people doing 3D-ish printers where they print the traces instead using that silver conductive paint or similar, so who knows.
People have tried to print either the resist or traces directly onto copper board with inkjet printers with little success.
Mark (?) on this list managed to laser print directly onto copper which surprised me.
I've been meaning to try the 'spray board with paint and laser it off' method. Diptrace will export a file suitable for milling (isolation traces) that will work for lasering. Should be fairly simple and fast, certainly quieter than a mill.
Tony
2016-01-04 by Dave Wade
For many 3D printers its simpler to print a Dremel or other mini-drill mount for the printer and use it to mill a PCB…
Dave
G4UGM
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: 04 January 2016 15:01
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: 3-D printer resist application? (was: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Anyone milling PCBs?)
But then you have to deal with the fumes from burning paint.
73,
Charlie
On Mon, 4 Jan 2016 22:51:43 +1100 "'Tony Smith' ajsmith1968@... [Homebrew_PCBs]" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> writes:
> On 1/3/2016 6:05 PM, Aaron Turner synfinatic@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
> wrote:
> > I'm curious- has anyone tried using Fusion360 for CAD/CAM for milling
> > PCB's? I've used Fusion360 with great results for designing parts for
> > my 3D printer and it includes a pretty decent CAM module I'm told.
> > And unlike BobCAD, it's free if you make less then $100k/year using
> > the software which makes it a great choice for non-professionals.
> >
> Hello--
>
> I inquired about this topic (deposition of plastic extruded resist directly onto
> copperclad board via 3-D printer) a while ago. Has anyone recently
> experimented with this approach? It's the inverse of a subtractive (milling)
> process, but the CAD/CAM software should equally well apply.
>
>
> Thanks, and 73--
>
> Brad AA1IP
I doubt it would be fine enough. That said are people doing 3D-ish printers where they print the traces instead using that silver conductive paint or similar, so who knows.
People have tried to print either the resist or traces directly onto copper board with inkjet printers with little success.
Mark (?) on this list managed to laser print directly onto copper which surprised me.
I've been meaning to try the 'spray board with paint and laser it off' method. Diptrace will export a file suitable for milling (isolation traces) that will work for lasering. Should be fairly simple and fast, certainly quieter than a mill.
Tony
2016-01-04 by Tobias Gogolin
How about developing a spot tin plating head with that type of resolution? For use on 3d printers?
On 4 Jan 2016 03:20, "Brad Thompson brad.thompson@... [Homebrew_PCBs]" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
On 1/3/2016 6:05 PM, Aaron Turner synfinatic@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
wrote:
> I'm curious- has anyone tried using Fusion360 for CAD/CAM for milling
> PCB's? I've used Fusion360 with great results for designing parts for
> my 3D printer and it includes a pretty decent CAM module I'm told.
> And unlike BobCAD, it's free if you make less then $100k/year using
> the software which makes it a great choice for non-professionals.
>
Hello--
I inquired about this topic (deposition of plastic extruded resist
directly onto copperclad board via 3-D printer) a while
ago. Has anyone recently experimented with this approach? It's the
inverse of a subtractive (milling) process,
but the CAD/CAM software should equally well apply.
Thanks, and 73--
Brad AA1IP
------------------------------------
Posted by: Brad Thompson <brad.thompson@...>
------------------------------------
Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
------------------------------------
Yahoo Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/
<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional
<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/join
(Yahoo! ID required)
<*> To change settings via email:
Homebrew_PCBs-digest@yahoogroups.com
Homebrew_PCBs-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
<*> Your use of Yahoo Groups is subject to:
https://info.yahoo.com/legal/us/yahoo/utos/terms/
2016-01-04 by keith printy
Wouldn’t the board need to be heated so the resist being sprayed from the 3 D printer would have time to get on the copper before it solidifies?
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2016 3:00 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: 3-D printer resist application? (was: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Anyone milling PCBs?)
How about developing a spot tin plating head with that type of resolution? For use on 3d printers?
On 4 Jan 2016 03:20, "Brad Thompson brad.thompson@... [Homebrew_PCBs]" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
On 1/3/2016 6:05 PM, Aaron Turner synfinatic@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
wrote:
> I'm curious- has anyone tried using Fusion360 for CAD/CAM for millingHello--
> PCB's? I've used Fusion360 with great results for designing parts for
> my 3D printer and it includes a pretty decent CAM module I'm told.
> And unlike BobCAD, it's free if you make less then $100k/year using
> the software which makes it a great choice for non-professionals.
>
2016-01-04 by Dave G4UGM
Well 3D printers don’t “spray” they “extrude” and folks use various tricks to get the stuff to stick including heating the board, hair lacquer, dilute PVA glue and various types of glue stick.
My printer has a glass sheet on and the bed gets warm enough for the PLA to stick, but I am not sure how acid resistant it is and how resistant to undercut it would be.
The first layer adhesion is the thing that is tricky, and for pcb etch it would have to be perfect.
Dave
G4UGM
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: 04 January 2016 22:25
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: 3-D printer resist application? (was: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Anyone milling PCBs?)
Wouldn’t the board need to be heated so the resist being sprayed from the 3 D printer would have time to get on the copper before it solidifies?
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2016 3:00 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: 3-D printer resist application? (was: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Anyone milling PCBs?)
How about developing a spot tin plating head with that type of resolution? For use on 3d printers?
On 4 Jan 2016 03:20, "Brad Thompson brad.thompson@... [Homebrew_PCBs]" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
On 1/3/2016 6:05 PM, Aaron Turner synfinatic@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
wrote: > I'm curious- has anyone tried using Fusion360 for CAD/CAM for milling
Hello--
> PCB's? I've used Fusion360 with great results for designing parts for
> my 3D printer and it includes a pretty decent CAM module I'm told.
> And unlike BobCAD, it's free if you make less then $100k/year using
> the software which makes it a great choice for non-professionals.
>
I inquired about this topic (deposition of plastic extruded resist
directly onto copperclad board via 3-D printer) a while
ago. Has anyone recently experimented with this approach? It's the
inverse of a subtractive (milling) process,
but the CAD/CAM software should equally well apply.
Thanks, and 73--
Brad AA1IP
------------------------------------
Posted by: Brad Thompson <brad.thompson@...>
------------------------------------
Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
------------------------------------
Yahoo Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/
<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional
<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/join
(Yahoo! ID required)
<*> To change settings via email:
Homebrew_PCBs-digest@yahoogroups.com
Homebrew_PCBs-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
<*> Your use of Yahoo Groups is subject to:
https://info.yahoo.com/legal/us/yahoo/utos/terms/
2016-01-06 by Bob Butcher
2016-01-07 by Jeff Heiss
This guy is using a UV laser to remove paint on a PCB.
http://gabuleu.blogspot.com/
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 5:03 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: 3-D printer resist application? (was: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Anyone milling PCBs?)
I have used this technique with spray cans of paint, and it works fine. The biggest problem I had was the lines cut were a bit narrow. At the time I had access to a big CNC system with a Q-switched YAG laser, but since I retired that is no longer the case.
Bob
2016-01-16 by Tony Smith
That’s encouraging, I should get around to trying it.
The CO2 lasers most people own (the ‘eBay lasers’) have a spot size of 0.1mm – 0.3mm depending on the lens (and power). They typically ship with a 50mm lens that has a spot of around 0.15mm. So that’s your ‘kerf’ or the isolation around the tracks.
Could always play around with defocussing to vary the line width I suppose.
Tony
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Thursday, 7 January 2016 9:03 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: 3-D printer resist application? (was: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Anyone milling PCBs?)
I have used this technique with spray cans of paint, and it works fine. The biggest problem I had was the lines cut were a bit narrow. At the time I had access to a big CNC system with a Q-switched YAG laser, but since I retired that is no longer the case.
Bob
2016-01-16 by Jeff Heiss
I’m interested in results from a CO2 laser. In particular minimum trace width and width spacing. Can you post some pictures when you get around to it?
Jeff
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2016 9:29 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: 3-D printer resist application? (was: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Anyone milling PCBs?)
That’s encouraging, I should get around to trying it.
The CO2 lasers most people own (the ‘eBay lasers’) have a spot size of 0.1mm – 0.3mm depending on the lens (and power). They typically ship with a 50mm lens that has a spot of around 0.15mm. So that’s your ‘kerf’ or the isolation around the tracks.
Could always play around with defocussing to vary the line width I suppose.
Tony
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Thursday, 7 January 2016 9:03 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: 3-D printer resist application? (was: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Anyone milling PCBs?)
I have used this technique with spray cans of paint, and it works fine. The biggest problem I had was the lines cut were a bit narrow. At the time I had access to a big CNC system with a Q-switched YAG laser, but since I retired that is no longer the case.
Bob
2016-01-19 by Tony Smith
I’ll give it a try with a 2” lens as that’s then most common size in these hobby lasers. I do have a 1.5” one (somewhere) and might order a 1” if things look ok.
Mixed up a new batch of CuCl last night and it turned brown… Hmmm. Etches slow too. Newly purchased peroxide might not be all it’s cracked up to be, bonus compound other than water?
Dang. Anyone seen that before?
Tony
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, 17 January 2016 7:12 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: 3-D printer resist application? (was: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Anyone milling PCBs?)
I’m interested in results from a CO2 laser. In particular minimum trace width and width spacing. Can you post some pictures when you get around to it?
Jeff
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2016 9:29 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: 3-D printer resist application? (was: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Anyone milling PCBs?)
That’s encouraging, I should get around to trying it.
The CO2 lasers most people own (the ‘eBay lasers’) have a spot size of 0.1mm – 0.3mm depending on the lens (and power). They typically ship with a 50mm lens that has a spot of around 0.15mm. So that’s your ‘kerf’ or the isolation around the tracks.
Could always play around with defocussing to vary the line width I suppose.
Tony
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Thursday, 7 January 2016 9:03 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: 3-D printer resist application? (was: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Anyone milling PCBs?)
I have used this technique with spray cans of paint, and it works fine. The biggest problem I had was the lines cut were a bit narrow. At the time I had access to a big CNC system with a Q-switched YAG laser, but since I retired that is no longer the case.
Bob