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Toner refills

Toner refills

2015-04-02 by Robert Nickels

Like most of us I suspect, I make PC boards using the toner transfer
method. I have an HP Laserjet 5000 which is an office-grade printer
capable of up to 11" by 17", which is nice, but my toner transfers have
been of marginal quality. There's no problem in getting the transfer
to work, but the amount of toner that is transferred seems inadequate.
Before etching, the black areas where toner is present appears mottled
and not solid black, with tiny pinholes visible. Even though I use the
green film, the copper is rough after etching, traces are undercut and
of inconsistent width. I've already got my printer maxxed-out as far
as settings go.

I use the Pulsar transfer paper, and they advise that my problems are
due to using refilled toner cartridges which don't contain enough or the
right kind of materials. Even though the output looks fine on paper I
can accept this, but the refilled cartridges are a small fraction of the
cost of new HP brand toner cartridges (e.g. HP 29X which sells for $235).

My question is: are there any recommended alternatives which would give
me better results at a cost somewhere between the bargain refills and
the new HP 29X?

Thanks and 73,
Bob W9RAN

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner refills

2015-04-02 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg

I use inkjet photo paper and refilled cartridges on an HP1010. The cartridges are icplus from ebay. After heating the paper to transfer (I use a domestic iron), put the board in the freezer for 20-30 minutes.
No rubbing or wetting the paper to remove it, just peel and all the toner stays on the PCB copper. The clay on the paper holds the toner to give a superb crisp image. You do get a white coating on the toner from the clay on the photo paper, but it has no effect when etching.

Malcolm


I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

--------------------------------------------
On Thu, 4/2/15, Robert Nickels w9ran@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner refills
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, April 2, 2015, 3:25 PM


 









Like most of us I suspect, I make PC boards using
the toner transfer

method. I have an HP Laserjet 5000 which is an
office-grade printer

capable of up to 11" by 17", which is nice, but my
toner transfers have

been of marginal quality. There's no problem in
getting the transfer

to work, but the amount of toner that is transferred seems
inadequate.

Before etching, the black areas where toner is present
appears mottled

and not solid black, with tiny pinholes visible. Even
though I use the

green film, the copper is rough after etching, traces are
undercut and

of inconsistent width. I've already got my printer
maxxed-out as far

as settings go.



I use the Pulsar transfer paper, and they advise that my
problems are

due to using refilled toner cartridges which don't
contain enough or the

right kind of materials. Even though the output looks fine
on paper I

can accept this, but the refilled cartridges are a small
fraction of the

cost of new HP brand toner cartridges (e.g. HP 29X which
sells for $235).



My question is: are there any recommended alternatives
which would give

me better results at a cost somewhere between the bargain
refills and

the new HP 29X?



Thanks and 73,

Bob W9RAN











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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner refills

2015-04-02 by camillus blockx

I would try different toners, it is said that brother toner does not work good either. So ask those company's that provide toner in bulk, they have good knowledge about this.

cb

On 4/2/2015 9:25:03 AM, Robert Nickels w9ran@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Like most of us I suspect, I make PC boards using the toner transfer
method. I have an HP Laserjet 5000 which is an office-grade printer
capable of up to 11" by 17", which is nice, but my toner transfers have
been of marginal quality. There's no problem in getting the transfer
to work, but the amount of toner that is transferred seems inadequate.
Before etching, the black areas where toner is present appears mottled
and not solid black, with tiny pinholes visible. Even though I use the
green film, the copper is rough after etching, traces are undercut and
of inconsistent width. I've already got my printer maxxed-out as far
as settings go.

I use the Pulsar transfer paper, and they advise that my problems are
due to using refilled toner cartridges which don't contain enough or the
right kind of materials. Even though the output looks fine on paper I
can accept this, but the refilled cartridges are a small fraction of the
cost of new HP brand toner cartridges (e.g. HP 29X which sells for $235).

My question is: are there any recommended alternatives which would give
me better results at a cost somewhere between the bargain refills and
the new HP 29X?

Thanks and 73,
Bob W9RAN

Re: Toner refills

2015-04-03 by bebx2000@...

I have used toner from,

http://www.tonerrefillkits.com/

with HP1320 and HP1102W printers. My experience is  that there is no difference between the OEM toner and their refills for PCB transfers.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner refills

2015-04-11 by soffee83@...

Thanks for the freezer tip Malcolm. I might try that on my next one. Soaking and rubbing the paper is a minor nuisance, but the toner's adhesion here is typically all or nothing. The areas that stick properly (ideally ALL of the board) are so tough that you'd almost need to scratch into them to get any off, while if there's a spot or two which didn't get the right amount of heat, that toner will almost float right off in the soapy water. Luckily, most of my problem areas are with larger black sections (ground pours,etc.), so I can usually go around and fix them with a paint marker. I'm trying to get in a habit of painting over larger black areas anyhow, as I sometimes get over-etched looking rough spots or an occasional pinhole in the ground pours.

All in all, I have pretty good success with toner PCBs, especially with the finer traces and hatch pattern pours. My iron has been modified with an eighth inch sheet of aluminum JB Welded to the base. The transfer is about three minutes max.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y193/Jidis/rolleriron.jpg

 

@Bob-  I'm currently on an HP 3150, but spent a long time on a Laserjet 6L. It looks like my most recent cartridge may be from an eBay seller called "Image Warehouse". Their listings say "New Genuine", but I'm pretty sure I've used generics in the past. This cartridge looks like it's under fifteen bucks, but I am of course using ancient parallel port hardware.

Hope you can get things worked out!