Homebrew_PCBs

Hi everyone

I am having trouble getting my e260d to print cleanly on my pcb.
https://imgur.com/6MFdNt1
Is output of the open source hardware cog and text. I am guessing the
board and carrier are flexing leading to an even finish. Does anyone
have an idea how to correct this? Thanks.


--
Matthew O'Gorman
BM: BM-2D7WS1iu3wNo66sLVwd4CcZ5sBHbn8CYwR
TorChat: 5w3dtk7nhkkijcpc
Site: https://b.rldn.net
Xim/Email: mog@...
mog@rldn:~$ fortune wisdom -s|boxes
/****************************************************************************/
/* Once you've tried to change the world you find it's a whole bunch easier */
/* to change your mind. */
/****************************************************************************/

I am more inclined to think it's a grounding program. Make sure the
pcb is electrically connected to the carrier and that the carrier is
grounded during the actual printing. In my mod this is accomplished
through metal upper rollers and a 14 inch long carrier. I use copper
tape WITH CONDUCTIVE ADHESIVE to connect the pcb to the carrier. Note
that some copper tapes have insulated adhesive.

Mark


At 04:40 AM 3/2/2015, you wrote:

>Hi everyone
>
>I am having trouble getting my e260d to print cleanly on my pcb.
>https://imgur.com/6MFdNt1
>Is output of the open source hardware cog and text. I am guessing the
>board and carrier are flexing leading to an even finish. Does anyone
>have an idea how to correct this? Thanks.
>
>
>--
>Matthew O'Gorman
>BM: BM-2D7WS1iu3wNo66sLVwd4CcZ5sBHbn8CYwR
>TorChat: 5w3dtk7nhkkijcpc
>Site: https://b.rldn.net
>Xim/Email: mog@...
>mog@rldn:~$ fortune wisdom -s|boxes
>/****************************************************************************/
>/* Once you've tried to change the world you find it's a whole bunch easier */
>/* to change your mind. */
>/****************************************************************************/
>

Use acetone! to clean the the PCB prior to running it through the laser.

)Apply the acetone with a clean paper towel,
)handle board by edges
)wait for fumes to evaporate,
)then blow dry with a hair dryer afterward.
)Them do as Mark says


-Lee

"Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
<Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> writes:

> I am more inclined to think it's a grounding program. Make sure the
> pcb is electrically connected to the carrier and that the carrier is
> grounded during the actual printing. In my mod this is accomplished
> through metal upper rollers and a 14 inch long carrier. I use copper
> tape WITH CONDUCTIVE ADHESIVE to connect the pcb to the carrier. Note
> that some copper tapes have insulated adhesive.
>
> Mark
>

Hi Mark and everyone else that responded.

I am not sure what problem is. Here is the transfer to a bare carrier
https://i.imgur.com/3VkKTgf.jpg and here is the transfer to my copper
board https://imgur.com/ZYg4Po6

I have checked with my meter and there is good continunity between the
plate and the top of the pcb. before I ran it through the printer i
cleaned and gave it quick acetone finish. I am using a toner cartridge
that is near empty, but look how good the finish to the carrier is, it
can't be that can it? I feel like I am so close to getting this
working.

Oh mark this is a hackjob still but
https://github.com/mogorman/e260d_pcbfactory is a working version of
your pseudocode for arduinos. It is what I am using currently as I had
them laying around.
--
Matthew O'Gorman
BM: BM-2D7WS1iu3wNo66sLVwd4CcZ5sBHbn8CYwR
TorChat: 5w3dtk7nhkkijcpc
Site: https://b.rldn.net
Xim/Email: mog@...
mog@rldn:~$ fortune wisdom -s|boxes
/*******************************************************/
/* Reality is bad enough, why should I tell the truth? */
/* -- Patrick Sky */
/*******************************************************/

Did you check to be sure the carrier is grounded completely through the printing process? If the carrier is too short, it might be grounded when the leading portion of the pcb is printed, but not the bottom portion of the pcb. That is why I went from a 12 inch carrier to a 14 inch one.

Mark

-----Original Message-----

>From: "Matthew O'Gorman mog@... [Homebrew_PCBs]" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Mar 3, 2015 4:29 PM
>To: "Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs]" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>, Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] DLP e260d uneven toner transfer
>
>"Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
><Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> writes:
>
>> I am more inclined to think it's a grounding program. Make sure the
>> pcb is electrically connected to the carrier and that the carrier is
>> grounded during the actual printing. In my mod this is accomplished
>> through metal upper rollers and a 14 inch long carrier. I use copper
>> tape WITH CONDUCTIVE ADHESIVE to connect the pcb to the carrier. Note
>> that some copper tapes have insulated adhesive.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>Hi Mark and everyone else that responded.
>
>I am not sure what problem is. Here is the transfer to a bare carrier
>https://i.imgur.com/3VkKTgf.jpg and here is the transfer to my copper
>board https://imgur.com/ZYg4Po6
>
>I have checked with my meter and there is good continunity between the
>plate and the top of the pcb. before I ran it through the printer i
>cleaned and gave it quick acetone finish. I am using a toner cartridge
>that is near empty, but look how good the finish to the carrier is, it
>can't be that can it? I feel like I am so close to getting this
>working.
>
>Oh mark this is a hackjob still but
>https://github.com/mogorman/e260d_pcbfactory is a working version of
>your pseudocode for arduinos. It is what I am using currently as I had
>them laying around.
>--
>Matthew O'Gorman
>BM: BM-2D7WS1iu3wNo66sLVwd4CcZ5sBHbn8CYwR
>TorChat: 5w3dtk7nhkkijcpc
>Site: https://b.rldn.net
>Xim/Email: mog@...
>mog@rldn:~$ fortune wisdom -s|boxes
>/*******************************************************/
>/* Reality is bad enough, why should I tell the truth? */
>/* -- Patrick Sky */
>/*******************************************************/

"Mark mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
<Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> writes:

> Did you check to be sure the carrier is grounded completely through the printing process? If the carrier is too short, it might be grounded when the leading portion of the pcb is printed, but not the bottom portion of the pcb. That is why I went from a 12 inch carrier to a 14 inch one.

Thank you for the fast reply. Just now I tried clipping an aligator
clip on the back of the carrier and printing it again. I ended up with
the same faded result. I am using a 14 inch carrier like you described
in the guide. I dont understand how the open source logo would come out
so black as in my first picture and so light in the second if it was a
problem in the length of the carrier. Anything else I should try?


--
Matthew O'Gorman
BM: BM-2D7WS1iu3wNo66sLVwd4CcZ5sBHbn8CYwR
TorChat: 5w3dtk7nhkkijcpc
Site: https://b.rldn.net
Xim/Email: mog@...
mog@rldn:~$ fortune wisdom -s|boxes
/***************************************************************************/
/* Nasrudin walked into a teahouse and declaimed, "The moon is more useful */
/* than the sun." */
/* "Why?", he was asked. */
/* "Because at night we need the light more." */
/***************************************************************************/

I agree with your logic, but am hard pressed to see the cause of the problem. Have you tried printing something else? Have you tried a different piece of copperclad? Try grounding both the leading and trailing edge of the pcb to the carrier, though I've never seen that make a difference. What happens if you tape a piece of paper to the top of the pcb? Just some random thoughts.


-----Original Message-----

>From: "Matthew O'Gorman mog@... [Homebrew_PCBs]" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Mar 3, 2015 4:55 PM
>To: "Mark mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs]" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>, Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] DLP e260d uneven toner transfer
>
>"Mark mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
><Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> writes:
>
>> Did you check to be sure the carrier is grounded completely through the printing process? If the carrier is too short, it might be grounded when the leading portion of the pcb is printed, but not the bottom portion of the pcb. That is why I went from a 12 inch carrier to a 14 inch one.
>
>
>Thank you for the fast reply. Just now I tried clipping an aligator
>clip on the back of the carrier and printing it again. I ended up with
>the same faded result. I am using a 14 inch carrier like you described
>in the guide. I dont understand how the open source logo would come out
>so black as in my first picture and so light in the second if it was a
>problem in the length of the carrier. Anything else I should try?
>
>
>--
>Matthew O'Gorman
>BM: BM-2D7WS1iu3wNo66sLVwd4CcZ5sBHbn8CYwR
>TorChat: 5w3dtk7nhkkijcpc
>Site: https://b.rldn.net
>Xim/Email: mog@...
>mog@rldn:~$ fortune wisdom -s|boxes
>/***************************************************************************/
>/* Nasrudin walked into a teahouse and declaimed, "The moon is more useful */
>/* than the sun." */
>/* "Why?", he was asked. */
>/* "Because at night we need the light more." */
>/***************************************************************************/

"Mark mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
<Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> writes:

> I agree with your logic, but am hard pressed to see the cause of the problem. Have you tried printing something else? Have you tried a different piece of copperclad? Try grounding both the leading and trailing edge of the pcb to the carrier, though I've never seen that make a difference. What happens if you tape a piece of paper to the top of the pcb? Just some random thoughts.

Thank you everyone for your help. I believe my problem was I wasn't
cleaning the copper enough and that I am very low on toner. Here is a
print I got after cleaning the board much
harder. https://imgur.com/W5pw8JS I am getting closer. Thanks
again. For all your help. I am trying to etch a board now.

--
Matthew O'Gorman
BM: BM-2D7WS1iu3wNo66sLVwd4CcZ5sBHbn8CYwR
TorChat: 5w3dtk7nhkkijcpc
Site: https://b.rldn.net
Xim/Email: mog@...
mog@rldn:~$ fortune wisdom -s|boxes
/**********************************************************/
/* Well, you know, no matter where you go, there you are. */
/* -- Buckaroo Banzai */
/**********************************************************/

>Please refrain to attach your signature.

Is of no use.


Cristian

> >
>Hi Mark and everyone else that responded.

I should have mentioned that I use a new toner and drum when I print
the pcbs and use an older one for testing. Also, do you have the
Local Printer Settings Utility that allows you to vary the density as
well as almost every other printing parameter?


At 12:43 AM 3/4/2015, you wrote:

>"Mark mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
><Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> writes:
>
> > I agree with your logic, but am hard pressed to see the cause of
> the problem. Have you tried printing something else? Have you tried
> a different piece of copperclad? Try grounding both the leading and
> trailing edge of the pcb to the carrier, though I've never seen
> that make a difference. What happens if you tape a piece of paper
> to the top of the pcb? Just some random thoughts.
>
>Thank you everyone for your help. I believe my problem was I wasn't
>cleaning the copper enough and that I am very low on toner. Here is a
>print I got after cleaning the board much
>harder. https://imgur.com/W5pw8JS I am getting closer. Thanks
>again. For all your help. I am trying to etch a board now.
>
>--
>Matthew O'Gorman
>BM: BM-2D7WS1iu3wNo66sLVwd4CcZ5sBHbn8CYwR
>TorChat: 5w3dtk7nhkkijcpc
>Site: https://b.rldn.net
>Xim/Email: mog@...
>mog@rldn:~$ fortune wisdom -s|boxes
>/**********************************************************/
>/* Well, you know, no matter where you go, there you are. */
>/* -- Buckaroo Banzai */
>/**********************************************************/
>

It's a lame PGP signature block. Even lamer when it's in the email as an
attachment no-one can open.

> >Please refrain to attach your signature.
>
> Is of no use.
>
>
> Cristian
>
> > >
> >Hi Mark and everyone else that responded.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
> Posted by: Cristian <crissstian@...>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and

Photos:

> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>

Mathew,
I see you are making good progress on your E260 project, and am very
much interested in your Arduino controller effort. I just modified an
E260dn, but working with Mark to cure a jam problem. I was looking for
an Arduino solution initially, but hadn't found anything so when I
discovered Mark's project I jumped right in. I would still like to have
an Arduino as a replacement if necessary, or as an alternate for
backup. I downloaded your github stuff, but with practically no
programming experience, I can only follow along with you great folks
"in-the-know"... Do you have some info on the Arduino hardware you would
like to share?.
Thanks,
Roger

On 3/3/2015 1:29 PM, Matthew O'Gorman mog@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
> Clip...
Oh mark this is a hackjob still but
https://github.com/mogorman/e260d_pcbfactory is a working version of
your pseudocode for arduinos. It is what I am using currently as I had
them laying around.

"Roger Blair Roger.Blair@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
<Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> writes:

> Mathew,
> I see you are making good progress on your E260 project, and am very
> much interested in your Arduino controller effort. I just modified an
> E260dn, but working with Mark to cure a jam problem. I was looking for
> an Arduino solution initially, but hadn't found anything so when I
> discovered Mark's project I jumped right in. I would still like to have
> an Arduino as a replacement if necessary, or as an alternate for
> backup. I downloaded your github stuff, but with practically no
> programming experience, I can only follow along with you great folks
> "in-the-know"... Do you have some info on the Arduino hardware you would
> like to share?.

I don't have any special hardware. I built my arduino up just like his
attiny example. The only difference in my set up is i used a 10k
resistor instead of a 5k. If you need anymore help let me know. the
source labels all the pins where they correspond. I started getting
great results https://imgur.com/5KJv3jT

> Thanks,
> Roger
>