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DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2014-12-22 by Marc.olanie@...

At last, I finished the « hardware » mods and wired the MCU… So far, so good. But the rig don’t seems to work.

I’m checking again and again all the different options, but don’t see where my gremlin is hidden.

  • When I’m starting the printer, after the initial check (without any carrier in the NPIS), the green led lights on, and after 4 seconds the feeder starts rolling without interruption during 60 seconds. All led are flashing at the end of the sequence.

  • If I place a carrier in the roller at this stage (before the motor stops), the carrier his “slurped” thru the printer, and stop moving when the end of the carrier has passed the NPIS (2 inches away from the npis). To eject the carrier, I have to “block” the npis with a piece of pcb or whatever, and press on the “run” button. The sequence ends with a "paper jam" alert only.

Voltage measurements on the mcu board

  • Pin 5 of the MCU goes low when no carrier detected in the NPIS, high when obstructed.

  •  5 V is ok on pin 8 (5.02V, perfect)

  • Pin 6 is high, goes low after approx. 1 second and stay low during 3 seconds when “X” or “run” is pressed

  • Pin 7 is high, goes low after approx. 3 seconds and stay low during 4 seconds when “X” or “run” is pressed

  • Pin 3 is high, goes low after approx. 1 seconds and stay low during 4 seconds when “X” or “run” is pressed

  • Pin 2 is high (3.3v), goes briefly low when “X” or “run” pressed, then back to high, and briefly low again then high when “X” or “run” released

None of these timing are accurate (counting in my head, looking at the scope). If more precise measurement should be done, I’ll have to build a “poor man’s logic analyzer” with a cypress or an Arduino and it will takes a little more time

 

The two blue wires coming from J27-4 and J23-1 are left unsoldered (should I cut ?)

 

Hope this checklist is accurate enough to help find a clue

 

Tnks

Marc

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2014-12-24 by Mark

Hi Marc,

 

It will take me a few days to get to this, probably Friday. I'll get back to you. When you turn the printer on does it go through its initialization and finally stop with a green light? I'm at my office now so I don't have the printer in front of me, but it's supposed to initialize with green lights moving back and forth, then the motor starts and runs for 20 seconds or so, then it stops with the ready light green.

 

Did you replace the thermistor with a resistor of about 2.5K (2k5)?

 

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: "Marc.olanie@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
Sent: Dec 22, 2014 10:12 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed



At last, I finished the « hardware » mods and wired the MCU… So far, so good. But the rig don’t seems to work.

I’m checking again and again all the different options, but don’t see where my gremlin is hidden.

When I’m starting the printer, after the initial check (without any carrier in the NPIS), the green led lights on, and after 4 seconds the feeder starts rolling without interruption during 60 seconds. All led are flashing at the end of the sequence.
If I place a carrier in the roller at this stage (before the motor stops), the carrier his “slurped” thru the printer, and stop moving when the end of the carrier has passed the NPIS (2 inches away from the npis). To eject the carrier, I have to “block” the npis with a piece of pcb or whatever, and press on the “run” button. The sequence ends with a "paper jam" alert only.

Voltage measurements on the mcu board

Pin 5 of the MCU goes low when no carrier detected in the NPIS, high when obstructed.
5 V is ok on pin 8 (5.02V, perfect)
Pin 6 is high, goes low after approx. 1 second and stay low during 3 seconds when “X” or “run” is pressed
Pin 7 is high, goes low after approx. 3 seconds and stay low during 4 seconds when “X” or “run” is pressed
Pin 3 is high, goes low after approx. 1 seconds and stay low during 4 seconds when “X” or “run” is pressed
Pin 2 is high (3.3v), goes briefly low when “X” or “run” pressed, then back to high, and briefly low again then high when “X” or “run” released

None of these timing are accurate (counting in my head, looking at the scope). If more precise measurement should be done, I’ll have to build a “poor man’s logic analyzer” with a cypress or an Arduino and it will takes a little more time



The two blue wires coming from J27-4 and J23-1 are left unsoldered (should I cut ?)



Hope this checklist is accurate enough to help find a clue



Tnks

Marc

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2014-12-24 by Marc OLANIE

​Hi Mark


Tnks for your prompt answer.

The initial diagnostic ends with a green light, the motor then starts after 4 secs. and keeps on Rolling :- ))

 The thermistor has been replaced with a fix resistor

Anyhow, right now, in Europe, we are in the middle of Christmas Hollydays, the equivalent of Thanksgiving. That means I'll have plenty of time to trace back all the mods and check all the wires . I hope I'll found the bug before Friday.

I'll keep you informed. I'm sure it's something stupid and obvious (as most of electronic problems are).


Tnks again


Marc



De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> de la part de Mark mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Envoyé : mercredi 24 décembre 2014 16:02
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed
 
 

Hi Marc,

 

It will take me a few days to get to this, probably Friday. I'll get back to you. When you turn the printer on does it go through its initialization and finally stop with a green light? I'm at my office now so I don't have the printer in front of me, but it's supposed to initialize with green lights moving back and forth, then the motor starts and runs for 20 seconds or so, then it stops with the ready light green.

 

Did you replace the thermistor with a resistor of about 2.5K (2k5)?

 

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: "Marc.olanie@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
Sent: Dec 22, 2014 10:12 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed



At last, I finished the « hardware » mods and wired the MCU… So far, so good. But the rig don’t seems to work.

I’m checking again and again all the different options, but don’t see where my gremlin is hidden.

When I’m starting the printer, after the initial check (without any carrier in the NPIS), the green led lights on, and after 4 seconds the feeder starts rolling without interruption during 60 seconds. All led are flashing at the end of the sequence.
If I place a carrier in the roller at this stage (before the motor stops), the carrier his “slurped” thru the printer, and stop moving when the end of the carrier has passed the NPIS (2 inches away from the npis). To eject the carrier, I have to “block” the npis with a piece of pcb or whatever, and press on the “run” button. The sequence ends with a "paper jam" alert only.

Voltage measurements on the mcu board

Pin 5 of the MCU goes low when no carrier detected in the NPIS, high when obstructed.
5 V is ok on pin 8 (5.02V, perfect)
Pin 6 is high, goes low after approx. 1 second and stay low during 3 seconds when “X” or “run” is pressed
Pin 7 is high, goes low after approx. 3 seconds and stay low during 4 seconds when “X” or “run” is pressed
Pin 3 is high, goes low after approx. 1 seconds and stay low during 4 seconds when “X” or “run” is pressed
Pin 2 is high (3.3v), goes briefly low when “X” or “run” pressed, then back to high, and briefly low again then high when “X” or “run” released

None of these timing are accurate (counting in my head, looking at the scope). If more precise measurement should be done, I’ll have to build a “poor man’s logic analyzer” with a cypress or an Arduino and it will takes a little more time



The two blue wires coming from J27-4 and J23-1 are left unsoldered (should I cut ?)



Hope this checklist is accurate enough to help find a clue



Tnks

Marc

Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2014-12-25 by Marc.olanie@...

Hi Mark


First problem solved (bad contact on the thermistor's connector).

printing process is running perfectly now, exepted one small detail : no toner on the support. First test have been made with the carrier guide only (no pcb, just the aluminium plate)

could the laser unit be out of order ?

Marc


Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2014-12-25 by Mark Lerman

Hi Marc,

Does the printer cycle correctly - all green lights when it finishes? Did you remember to drill a hole in the carrier to trigger the NPIS? Is the hole correctly positioned? Does it actually trigger the mcu?

Mark


At 07:19 AM 12/25/2014, you wrote:


Hi Mark


First problem solved (bad contact on the thermistor's connector).

printing process is running perfectly now, exepted one small detail : no toner on the support. First test have been made with the carrier guide only (no pcb, just the aluminium plate)

could the laser unit be out of order ?

Marc




RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2014-12-25 by Marc OLANIE

​Hi Mark


The printer cycles perfectly. LED is green when finished, hole in the carrier has been drilled and is detected by the MCU (easy to test : the carrier stops approxymately 2 inches after the hole under a "paper jam" condition)

In normal condition, the MCU is triggered correctly and the carrier is driven all thru the printer without a glitch.

Marc

De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> de la part de Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Envoyé : jeudi 25 décembre 2014 15:48
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed
 
 

Hi Marc,

Does the printer cycle correctly - all green lights when it finishes? Did you remember to drill a hole in the carrier to trigger the NPIS? Is the hole correctly positioned? Does it actually trigger the mcu?

Mark


At 07:19 AM 12/25/2014, you wrote:


Hi Mark


First problem solved (bad contact on the thermistor's connector).

printing process is running perfectly now, exepted one small detail : no toner on the support. First test have been made with the carrier guide only (no pcb, just the aluminium plate)

could the laser unit be out of order ?

Marc




RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2014-12-25 by Mark Lerman

Marc,

Was this a new printer? Did you test it before hacking it to be sure it worked correctly. Do you have a spare drum and/or cartridge to try? Are all the connectors attached properly to  the printer pcb? Did you replace the transfer roller?

Mark

At 10:46 AM 12/25/2014, you wrote:


Hi Mark


The printer cycles perfectly. LED is green when finished, hole in the carrier has been drilled and is detected by the MCU (easy to test : the carrier stops approxymately 2 inches after the hole under a "paper jam" condition)

In normal condition, the MCU is triggered correctly and the carrier is driven all thru the printer without a glitch.

Marc
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> de la part de Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Envoyé : jeudi 25 décembre 2014 15:48
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed
 
 

Hi Marc,

Does the printer cycle correctly - all green lights when it finishes? Did you remember to drill a hole in the carrier to trigger the NPIS? Is the hole correctly positioned? Does it actually trigger the mcu?

Mark


At 07:19 AM 12/25/2014, you wrote:


Hi Mark


First problem solved (bad contact on the thermistor's connector).

printing process is running perfectly now, exepted one small detail : no toner on the support. First test have been made with the carrier guide only (no pcb, just the aluminium plate)

could the laser unit be out of order ?

Marc





RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2014-12-25 by Marc OLANIE

​Hi Mark


>Was this a new printer?

a used one, almost never used

>Did you test it before hacking it to be sure it worked correctly

I did. It was printing perfectly

> Do you have a spare drum and/or cartridge to try?

:-( no I don't

>Are all the connectors attached properly to  the printer pcb?

as far as I can see, yes.

>Did you replace the transfer roller?

Absolutely. The transfer roller is in place (with the right side spring)


Tnks

Marc




RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2014-12-27 by Marc OLANIE

​Hi Mark


The situation here is still the same.

The diags given by the service manual don't helps a lot... after having verified all connectors (and particularly the roller's wire), things haven't changed. The usual suspects are : optical block, High voltage power supply, PC Kit... I think I would be able to write maintenance guides for Lexmark :-))). I would have felt more comfortable with a real maintenance guide, indicating voltages and signals patterns. Or even a simple schematic.


As the sum of most of the parts is higher than the cost of a whole e260 on eBay, I'll buy a "new used" one that will gave me all I need in term of spare parts. And if the problem is the PC Kit itself, I will probably "offer" a modified e260 to my Radio club :-) (first law of Lavoisier and hacking : nothing can be lost, everything can be transformed :-D )


Thank you for the time you  spent and your help. I'm still optimistic, this small problem will be solved.


Marc f6itu







De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> de la part de Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Envoyé : vendredi 26 décembre 2014 20:58
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed
 
 

Marc,

Did you get it working?

Mark


At 11:14 AM 12/25/2014, you wrote:



RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2014-12-27 by Mark Lerman

Hi Marc,

Well, it is certainly resolvable <smile>. The hack does work and has been repeated numerous times. I'm not sure I would replace the laser mechanism, though, without knowing how to realign it.

Mark

At 04:39 AM 12/27/2014, you wrote:


Hi Mark


The situation here is still the same.

The diags given by the service manual don't helps a lot... after having verified all connectors (and particularly the roller's wire), things haven't changed. The usual suspects are : optical block, High voltage power supply, PC Kit... I think I would be able to write maintenance guides for Lexmark :-))). I would have felt more comfortable with a real maintenance guide, indicating voltages and signals patterns. Or even a simple schematic.


As the sum of most of the parts is higher than the cost of a whole e260 on eBay, I'll buy a "new used" one that will gave me all I need in term of spare parts. And if the problem is the PC Kit itself, I will probably "offer" a modified e260 to my Radio club :-) (first law of Lavoisier and hacking : nothing can be lost, everything can be transformed :-D )


Thank you for the time you  spent and your help. I'm still optimistic, this small problem will be solved.


Marc f6itu







De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> de la part de Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Envoyé : vendredi 26 décembre 2014 20:58
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed
 
 

Marc,

Did you get it working?

Mark


At 11:14 AM 12/25/2014, you wrote:





RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2014-12-27 by Marc OLANIE

​Thanks for the advice. It seems obvious, but it's worth mentioning .


I keep you informed of the evolution. Tnks agn


Marc

De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> de la part de Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Envoyé : samedi 27 décembre 2014 14:41
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed
 
 

Hi Marc,

Well, it is certainly resolvable <smile>. The hack does work and has been repeated numerous times. I'm not sure I would replace the laser mechanism, though, without knowing how to realign it.

Mark

At 04:39 AM 12/27/2014, you wrote:


Hi Mark


The situation here is still the same.

The diags given by the service manual don't helps a lot... after having verified all connectors (and particularly the roller's wire), things haven't changed. The usual suspects are : optical block, High voltage power supply, PC Kit... I think I would be able to write maintenance guides for Lexmark :-))). I would have felt more comfortable with a real maintenance guide, indicating voltages and signals patterns. Or even a simple schematic.


As the sum of most of the parts is higher than the cost of a whole e260 on eBay, I'll buy a "new used" one that will gave me all I need in term of spare parts. And if the problem is the PC Kit itself, I will probably "offer" a modified e260 to my Radio club :-) (first law of Lavoisier and hacking : nothing can be lost, everything can be transformed :-D )


Thank you for the time you  spent and your help. I'm still optimistic, this small problem will be solved.


Marc f6itu







De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> de la part de Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Envoyé : vendredi 26 décembre 2014 20:58
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed
 
 

Marc,

Did you get it working?

Mark


At 11:14 AM 12/25/2014, you wrote:





RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2014-12-27 by Mark

 

Your problem is really interesting. There have been many times I would have liked to have been able to cycle the printer without actually printing anything. Usually I just print a dot or something small. I should have time later this weekend to see if I can replicate the problem.



 

-----Original Message-----
From: "Marc OLANIE Marc.olanie@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
Sent: Dec 27, 2014 9:17 AM
To: "Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com"
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

?Thanks for the advice. It seems obvious, but it's worth mentioning .


I keep you informed of the evolution. Tnks agn


Marc

________________________________
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com de la part de Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
Envoyé : samedi 27 décembre 2014 14:41
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed



Hi Marc,

Well, it is certainly resolvable . The hack does work and has been repeated numerous times. I'm not sure I would replace the laser mechanism, though, without knowing how to realign it.

Mark

At 04:39 AM 12/27/2014, you wrote:



Hi Mark


The situation here is still the same.

The diags given by the service manual don't helps a lot... after having verified all connectors (and particularly the roller's wire), things haven't changed. The usual suspects are : optical block, High voltage power supply, PC Kit... I think I would be able to write maintenance guides for Lexmark :-))). I would have felt more comfortable with a real maintenance guide, indicating voltages and signals patterns. Or even a simple schematic.


As the sum of most of the parts is higher than the cost of a whole e260 on eBay, I'll buy a "new used" one that will gave me all I need in term of spare parts. And if the problem is the PC Kit itself, I will probably "offer" a modified e260 to my Radio club :-) (first law of Lavoisier and hacking : nothing can be lost, everything can be transformed :-D )


Thank you for the time you spent and your help. I'm still optimistic, this small problem will be solved.


Marc f6itu







________________________________
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com de la part de Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
Envoyé : vendredi 26 décembre 2014 20:58
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed



Marc,

Did you get it working?

Mark


At 11:14 AM 12/25/2014, you wrote:







RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2014-12-27 by Marc OLANIE

​I think putting a simple switch on the red "roller wire" would approximately do the same result (even if it's definitely not the origin of my bug).


I'm affraid I won't be able to give you a more precise answer before next year... my eBay seller has received his order, but I doubt he will be able to send me the lexmark during new year's eve (and even if he cans, European postal services are totally cluttered these days)


BCNU


Marc



De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> de la part de Mark mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Envoyé : samedi 27 décembre 2014 16:12
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed
 
 

 

Your problem is really interesting. There have been many times I would have liked to have been able to cycle the printer without actually printing anything. Usually I just print a dot or something small. I should have time later this weekend to see if I can replicate the problem.



 

-----Original Message-----
From: "Marc OLANIE Marc.olanie@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
Sent: Dec 27, 2014 9:17 AM
To: "Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com"
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

?Thanks for the advice. It seems obvious, but it's worth mentioning .


I keep you informed of the evolution. Tnks agn


Marc

________________________________
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com de la part de Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
Envoyé : samedi 27 décembre 2014 14:41
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed



Hi Marc,

Well, it is certainly resolvable . The hack does work and has been repeated numerous times. I'm not sure I would replace the laser mechanism, though, without knowing how to realign it.

Mark

At 04:39 AM 12/27/2014, you wrote:



Hi Mark


The situation here is still the same.

The diags given by the service manual don't helps a lot... after having verified all connectors (and particularly the roller's wire), things haven't changed. The usual suspects are : optical block, High voltage power supply, PC Kit... I think I would be able to write maintenance guides for Lexmark :-))). I would have felt more comfortable with a real maintenance guide, indicating voltages and signals patterns. Or even a simple schematic.


As the sum of most of the parts is higher than the cost of a whole e260 on eBay, I'll buy a "new used" one that will gave me all I need in term of spare parts. And if the problem is the PC Kit itself, I will probably "offer" a modified e260 to my Radio club :-) (first law of Lavoisier and hacking : nothing can be lost, everything can be transformed :-D )


Thank you for the time you spent and your help. I'm still optimistic, this small problem will be solved.


Marc f6itu







________________________________
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com de la part de Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
Envoyé : vendredi 26 décembre 2014 20:58
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed



Marc,

Did you get it working?

Mark


At 11:14 AM 12/25/2014, you wrote:







RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2014-12-27 by Mark

No, the Transfer Roller voltage is not at all necessary for the printer to work (on pcbs). What it is necessary for is cleaning up the drum after the print is made! If you cut the wire the drum will end up covered with toner. It will still work to print pcbs, though.

-----Original Message-----
From: "Marc OLANIE Marc.olanie@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
Sent: Dec 27, 2014 11:33 AM
To: "Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com"
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

?I think putting a simple switch on the red "roller wire" would approximately do the same result (even if it's definitely not the origin of my bug).


I'm affraid I won't be able to give you a more precise answer before next year... my eBay seller has received his order, but I doubt he will be able to send me the lexmark during new year's eve (and even if he cans, European postal services are totally cluttered these days)


BCNU


Marc



________________________________
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com de la part de Mark mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
Envoyé : samedi 27 décembre 2014 16:12
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed





Your problem is really interesting. There have been many times I would have liked to have been able to cycle the printer without actually printing anything. Usually I just print a dot or something small. I should have time later this weekend to see if I can replicate the problem.




-----Original Message-----
From: "Marc OLANIE Marc.olanie@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
Sent: Dec 27, 2014 9:17 AM
To: "Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com"
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

?Thanks for the advice. It seems obvious, but it's worth mentioning .


I keep you informed of the evolution. Tnks agn


Marc

________________________________
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com de la part de Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
Envoyé : samedi 27 décembre 2014 14:41
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed



Hi Marc,

Well, it is certainly resolvable . The hack does work and has been repeated numerous times. I'm not sure I would replace the laser mechanism, though, without knowing how to realign it.

Mark

At 04:39 AM 12/27/2014, you wrote:



Hi Mark


The situation here is still the same.

The diags given by the service manual don't helps a lot... after having verified all connectors (and particularly the roller's wire), things haven't changed. The usual suspects are : optical block, High voltage power supply, PC Kit... I think I would be able to write maintenance guides for Lexmark :-))). I would have felt more comfortable with a real maintenance guide, indicating voltages and signals patterns. Or even a simple schematic.


As the sum of most of the parts is higher than the cost of a whole e260 on eBay, I'll buy a "new used" one that will gave me all I need in term of spare parts. And if the problem is the PC Kit itself, I will probably "offer" a modified e260 to my Radio club :-) (first law of Lavoisier and hacking : nothing can be lost, everything can be transformed :-D )


Thank you for the time you spent and your help. I'm still optimistic, this small problem will be solved.


Marc f6itu







________________________________
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com de la part de Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
Envoyé : vendredi 26 décembre 2014 20:58
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed



Marc,

Did you get it working?

Mark


At 11:14 AM 12/25/2014, you wrote:









RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2014-12-27 by Marc OLANIE

​Me stupid. Yes.


I'll try to ask a retired guy who used to work for Lexmark since the "spin off" from IBM. He should know, or know who to ask.


Marc

De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> de la part de Mark mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Envoyé : samedi 27 décembre 2014 17:47
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed
 
 

No, the Transfer Roller voltage is not at all necessary for the printer to work (on pcbs). What it is necessary for is cleaning up the drum after the print is made! If you cut the wire the drum will end up covered with toner. It will still work to print pcbs, though.

-----Original Message-----
From: "Marc OLANIE Marc.olanie@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
Sent: Dec 27, 2014 11:33 AM
To: "Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com"
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

?I think putting a simple switch on the red "roller wire" would approximately do the same result (even if it's definitely not the origin of my bug).


I'm affraid I won't be able to give you a more precise answer before next year... my eBay seller has received his order, but I doubt he will be able to send me the lexmark during new year's eve (and even if he cans, European postal services are totally cluttered these days)


BCNU


Marc



________________________________
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com de la part de Mark mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
Envoyé : samedi 27 décembre 2014 16:12
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed





Your problem is really interesting. There have been many times I would have liked to have been able to cycle the printer without actually printing anything. Usually I just print a dot or something small. I should have time later this weekend to see if I can replicate the problem.




-----Original Message-----
From: "Marc OLANIE Marc.olanie@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
Sent: Dec 27, 2014 9:17 AM
To: "Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com"
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

?Thanks for the advice. It seems obvious, but it's worth mentioning .


I keep you informed of the evolution. Tnks agn


Marc

________________________________
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com de la part de Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
Envoyé : samedi 27 décembre 2014 14:41
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed



Hi Marc,

Well, it is certainly resolvable . The hack does work and has been repeated numerous times. I'm not sure I would replace the laser mechanism, though, without knowing how to realign it.

Mark

At 04:39 AM 12/27/2014, you wrote:



Hi Mark


The situation here is still the same.

The diags given by the service manual don't helps a lot... after having verified all connectors (and particularly the roller's wire), things haven't changed. The usual suspects are : optical block, High voltage power supply, PC Kit... I think I would be able to write maintenance guides for Lexmark :-))). I would have felt more comfortable with a real maintenance guide, indicating voltages and signals patterns. Or even a simple schematic.


As the sum of most of the parts is higher than the cost of a whole e260 on eBay, I'll buy a "new used" one that will gave me all I need in term of spare parts. And if the problem is the PC Kit itself, I will probably "offer" a modified e260 to my Radio club :-) (first law of Lavoisier and hacking : nothing can be lost, everything can be transformed :-D )


Thank you for the time you spent and your help. I'm still optimistic, this small problem will be solved.


Marc f6itu







________________________________
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com de la part de Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs]
Envoyé : vendredi 26 décembre 2014 20:58
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed



Marc,

Did you get it working?

Mark


At 11:14 AM 12/25/2014, you wrote:









RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-02-05 by Marc.olanie@...

Hi Mark


My printer still refuse to print :- /


Meantime, I have received another e260


The toner and drum assembly is not the culprit, both are working on the "new" printer. Neither the power supply unit. After switching the two elements, the modified rig do nothing, the "new" printer works like a charm.


May I ask you to send me the Hex file you use to burn your Attiny ? I'm wondering if the problem is due to a compilation error (bad fuse selected or something like that)


Cheers

Marc



RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-02-05 by Mark

Marc,

I'll send it to you tomorrow morning. I've lost track - did I send you the programmed board or did you make one yourself?

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: "Marc.olanie@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
Sent: Feb 5, 2015 12:54 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed



Hi Mark


My printer still refuse to print :- /


Meantime, I have received another e260


The toner and drum assembly is not the culprit, both are working on the "new" printer. Neither the power supply unit. After switching the two elements, the modified rig do nothing, the "new" printer works like a charm.


May I ask you to send me the Hex file you use to burn your Attiny ? I'm wondering if the problem is due to a compilation error (bad fuse selected or something like that)


Cheers

Marc





RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-02-05 by Marc OLANIE

​Hi Mark

I made it myself. A smt version, as my stock of Attiny are all in SOIC form factor. Flashed with an AVRisp and compiled with AVR Studio (an old version)

The µC was reacting normaly, gpio output timing were approximately good... but in doubt, I would prefer to flash the controler again to avoid any software problem.


Tomorrow, I'll check again all the wiring .

Marc


De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> de la part de Mark mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Envoyé : jeudi 5 février 2015 22:29
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed
 
 

Marc,

I'll send it to you tomorrow morning. I've lost track - did I send you the programmed board or did you make one yourself?

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: "Marc.olanie@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
Sent: Feb 5, 2015 12:54 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed



Hi Mark


My printer still refuse to print :- /


Meantime, I have received another e260


The toner and drum assembly is not the culprit, both are working on the "new" printer. Neither the power supply unit. After switching the two elements, the modified rig do nothing, the "new" printer works like a charm.


May I ask you to send me the Hex file you use to burn your Attiny ? I'm wondering if the problem is due to a compilation error (bad fuse selected or something like that)


Cheers

Marc





RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-02-06 by Marc.olanie@...

Hi Mark

I triple checked all the wiring (see below)

Next step : I'll try to change the processor board

Do you have an idea on how to check the laser beam ?


------------

Wiring after mod : check list of connectors

 J4 : intact/untouched

 J5 : intact/untouched (“X” button routed directly with a wire going from front panel to =>pin 2 MCU)

 J100 : intact/untouched

 J7 : To MCU (black => gnd MCU, red => pin8 MCU(Vcc), yellow => Vcc, shorted to red)

 J8 : intact/untouched

----------------

J9  : intact/untouched

 J10 empty

 J11 empty

J14 : black =>gnd MCU, white=>pin 7 MCU, red =>NPIS Vcc

 J12 : shunt with resistor

---------------

 

J502 : intact/untouched

 J17 : intact/untouched

 J501 : intact/untouched

---------------

J28 : empty (unused tray selector)

 J27 : black=>gnd MCU white=>pin 3 MCU, Red-white-black : cut, blue=NC ????

 J26 : empty

 J25 : intact/untouched

 J23 : black=> white=> pin 6 MCU, blue=NC ????

---------------

check list of NPIS :

NPIS=> MCU Pin5

NPIS =>Vcc J14

NPIS => MCU gnd

---------------

check list of connectors MCU :

Pin 1 =>ISP reset

Pin 2 =>X button

Pin3 => J27-5

Pin4 => GND

Pin5 => NPIS collector

Pin6 => J23- white

Pin7 => J14-white (middle)

Pin8 => Vcc

Other connectors are empty or not even soldered.


Marc

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-02-06 by Mark Lerman

Marc,

>Attached (in the copy to your email address) is the hex file. The /8
>fuse should be set when you program the chip.

Your wiring sounds ok, though I didn't open my printer to check it
all. Did you remember the 4.99K (5K) resistor pull up on the NPIS? In
one drawing I labeled it 27K (since corrected).

No, I don't know how to check the laser.

You could test your mcu board by detaching it from the printer and
using an external switch to replace the printer switch. Put a
voltmeter on one of the mcu "sensor" pins and check the timing. Then
do it again on the other sensor pins.

If you can't get it working I could send you a programmed mcu board,
but I'd have to make one since I am out of them.

Mark


----------

:020000020000FC
:1000000009C01895189518951895189534C0189525
:10001000189518950FE90DBF29D01FD0B399FECFC1
:10002000789411271832F1F7C198F894B09B04C066
:10003000B399FBCFC19AF4CFC4987894112719349F
:10004000F1F7C29811271632F1F7C19A1734F1F778
:10005000C49A1039F1F7C29AE1CF02E00FBD04E073
:1000600003BF05E706BF04E009BF089506E107BB2B
:0A00700006EF08BB089513951895DC
:00000001FF


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-04-04 by Roger Blair

Hi Marc & Mark,
I saw Marc's question marks on the same couple of wires I need some clarification on. I haven't seen any resolution yet, and wonder if these wires should  be cut back to the connectors, left floating, or something else I am missing?
Below is my hookup chart. Is there anything that is incorrect, or needs adding?

MCU Board Hookup

Device

Function

Conn

Color

ATtiny13 MCU

Function

Operator Panel

3.3V

J5-5

BL

2

Pad no.’s = Pin no.’s

PB3

Cover Open

Switch Wires

5V

J7-1

YE

8

VCC

5V

J7-2

RD

GND

J7-3

BK

4

GND

New Paper In Sensor

(was narrow sensor)

0-5V

J14-1

RD

(Splice Sensor wire to J14 wire)

 

5V

J14-2

BL

5

4.99k to PAD 8 VCC

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-04-04 by Marc OLANIE

Hi Roger

 

I’ approximately 300 miles away from my printer :- (( cannot check the wiring again for a while. I won’t be able to hack again my Lexmark before 2 or 3 weeks (well… If my boss lets me go :- / )

 

Did you also check the different “software switches” when burning your firmware in your Attiny ? I think mine was faulty.

 

Without a correct timing, would the laser be running ? I really don’t know. Only Mark could answer these questions.

 

73’

Marc

 

 

 

De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Envoyé : samedi 4 avril 2015 06:01
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

 

 

Hi Marc & Mark,
I saw Marc's question marks on the same couple of wires I need some clarification on. I haven't seen any resolution yet, and wonder if these wires should  be cut back to the connectors, left floating, or something else I am missing?
Below is my hookup chart. Is there anything that is incorrect, or needs adding?

MCU Board Hookup

Device

Function

Conn

Color

ATtiny13 MCU

Function

Operator Panel

3.3V

J5-5

BL

2

Pad no.’s = Pin no.’s

PB3

Cover Open

Switch Wires

5V

J7-1

YE

8

VCC

5V

J7-2

RD

GND

J7-3

BK

4

GND

New Paper In Sensor

(was narrow sensor)

0-5V

J14-1

RD

(Splice Sensor wire to J14 wire)

 

5V

J14-2

BL

5

4.99k to PAD 8 VCC

MOSI

GND

J14-3

BK

4

 

GND

Manual Feed

Paper Sensor

5V (1.1V)

J23-1

BL

N/C

 

5V

J23-2

WT

6

MISO

GND

J23-3

BK

4

GND

Exit Sensor

5V (>0V)

J27-4

BL

N/C

 

5V

J27-5

WT

3

PB4

GND

J27-6

BK

4

GND

Thanks for any assistance,
Roger

On 2/6/2015 5:46 AM, Marc.olanie@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:

 

Hi Mark

I triple checked all the wiring (see below)

Next step : I'll try to change the processor board

Do you have an idea on how to check the laser beam ?

 

------------

Wiring after mod : check list of connectors

 J4 : intact/untouched

 J5 : intact/untouched (“X” button routed directly with a wire going from front panel to =>pin 2 MCU)

 J100 : intact/untouched

 J7 : To MCU (black => gnd MCU, red => pin8 MCU(Vcc), yellow => Vcc, shorted to red)

 J8 : intact/untouched

----------------

J9  : intact/untouched

 J10 empty

 J11 empty

J14 : black =>gnd MCU, white=>pin 7 MCU, red =>NPIS Vcc

 J12 : shunt with resistor

---------------

 

J502 : intact/untouched

 J17 : intact/untouched

 J501 : intact/untouched

---------------

J28 : empty (unused tray selector)

 J27 : black=>gnd MCU white=>pin 3 MCU, Red-white-black : cut, blue=NC ????

 J26 : empty

 J25 : intact/untouched

 J23 : black=> white=> pin 6 MCU, blue=NC ????

---------------

check list of NPIS :

NPIS=> MCU Pin5

NPIS =>Vcc J14

NPIS => MCU gnd

---------------

check list of connectors MCU :

Pin 1 =>ISP reset

Pin 2 =>X button

Pin3 => J27-5

Pin4 => GND

Pin5 => NPIS collector

Pin6 => J23- white

Pin7 => J14-white (middle)

Pin8 => Vcc

Other connectors are empty or not even soldered.

 

Marc

 

--
Dell XPS8700 256GB SSD 2TB HD 24.0 GB RAM Win8.1 64-bit Intel x64 8 Core(TM) i7-4770 CPU@3.40GHz 3.40 GHz

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-04-04 by Mark Lerman

Roger,

That looks correct. Are you using an E260 or
E360? Are you still having the same problem that
the machine cycles correctly but it doesn't print?

Mark


At 12:00 AM 4/4/2015, you wrote:


>Hi Marc & Mark,
>I saw Marc's question marks on the same couple
>of wires I need some clarification on. I haven't
>seen any resolution yet, and wonder if these
>wires should be cut back to the connectors,
>left floating, or something else I am missing?
>Below is my hookup chart. Is there anything that
>is incorrect, or needs adding?

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-04-04 by Roger Blair

Hi Marc,
The printer hasn't  seen life after mod... I haven't made connections to the board yet, as I'd hoped for some validation first so as not to need rework.
Mark Lerman provided me with a pre-programmed board, so I haven't been involved with firmware.
Good luck with your endeavor.
Thanks,
Roger

On 4/4/2015 1:02 AM, Marc OLANIE Marc.olanie@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

Hi Roger

 

I’ approximately 300 miles away from my printer :- (( cannot check the wiring again for a while. I won’t be able to hack again my Lexmark before 2 or 3 weeks (well… If my boss lets me go :- / )

 

Did you also check the different “software switches” when burning your firmware in your Attiny ? I think mine was faulty.

 

Without a correct timing, would the laser be running ? I really don’t know. Only Mark could answer these questions.

 

73’

Marc

 

 

 

De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
Envoyé : samedi 4 avril 2015 06:01
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

 

 

Hi Marc & Mark,
I saw Marc's question marks on the same couple of wires I need some clarification on. I haven't seen any resolution yet, and wonder if these wires should  be cut back to the connectors, left floating, or something else I am missing?
Below is my hookup chart. Is there anything that is incorrect, or needs adding?

MCU Board Hookup

Device

Function

Conn

Color

ATtiny13 MCU

Function

Operator Panel

3.3V

J5-5

BL

2

Pad no.’s = Pin no.’s

PB3

Cover Open

Switch Wires

5V

J7-1

YE

8

VCC

5V

J7-2

RD

GND

J7-3

BK

4

GND

New Paper In Sensor

(was narrow sensor)

0-5V

J14-1

RD

(Splice Sensor wire to J14 wire)

 

5V

J14-2

BL

5

4.99k to PAD 8 VCC

MOSI

GND

J14-3

BK

4

 

GND

Manual Feed

Paper Sensor

5V (1.1V)

J23-1

BL

N/C

 

5V

J23-2

WT

6

MISO

GND

J23-3

BK

4

GND

Exit Sensor

5V (>0V)

J27-4

BL

N/C

 

5V

J27-5

WT

3

PB4

GND

J27-6

BK

4

GND

Thanks for any assistance,
Roger

On 2/6/2015 5:46 AM, Marc.olanie@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:

 

Hi Mark

I triple checked all the wiring (see below)

Next step : I'll try to change the processor board

Do you have an idea on how to check the laser beam ?

 

------------

Wiring after mod : check list of connectors

 J4 : intact/untouched

 J5 : intact/untouched (“X” button routed directly with a wire going from front panel to =>pin 2 MCU)

 J100 : intact/untouched

 J7 : To MCU (black => gnd MCU, red => pin8 MCU(Vcc), yellow => Vcc, shorted to red)

 J8 : intact/untouched

----------------

J9  : intact/untouched

 J10 empty

 J11 empty

J14 : black =>gnd MCU, white=>pin 7 MCU, red =>NPIS Vcc

 J12 : shunt with resistor

---------------

 

J502 : intact/untouched

 J17 : intact/untouched

 J501 : intact/untouched

---------------

J28 : empty (unused tray selector)

 J27 : black=>gnd MCU white=>pin 3 MCU, Red-white-black : cut, blue=NC ????

 J26 : empty

 J25 : intact/untouched

 J23 : black=> white=> pin 6 MCU, blue=NC ????

---------------



(Message over 64 KB, truncated)

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-04-04 by Roger Blair

Mark,
I have a 260dn, which hasn't  seen life yet after mod... You provided me with a pre-programmed board, which I haven't made connections to yet, as I'd hoped for some validation first, to avoid rework.

Thanks,
Roger

On 4/4/2015 6:43 AM, Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

Roger,

That looks correct. Are you using an E260 or
E360? Are you still having the same problem that
the machine cycles correctly but it doesn't print?

Mark

At 12:00 AM 4/4/2015, you wrote:

>Hi Marc & Mark,
>I saw Marc's question marks on the same couple
>of wires I need some clarification on. I haven't
>seen any resolution yet, and wonder if these
>wires should be cut back to the connectors,
>left floating, or something else I am missing?
>Below is my hookup chart. Is there anything that
>is incorrect, or needs adding?


--
Dell XPS8700 256GB SSD 2TB HD 24.0 GB RAM Win8.1 64-bit Intel x64 8 Core(TM) i7-4770 CPU@3.40GHz 3.40 GHz

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-04-05 by Roger Blair

Hi Mark (& Marc), again...
I found a few overlooked corresponding emails from earlier in time, and with a little more information... I have just completed wiring the printer as follows, and have a fault:

E260dn DLP Hookup

Device

Function

Conn

Color

ATtiny13 MCU

Function

Operator Panel

3.3V

J5-5

BL

2

Pad no.’s = Pin no.’s

PB3

Cover Open

Switch Wires

5V

J7-1

YE

8

VCC

5V

J7-2

RD

GND

J7-3

BK

4

GND

Thermistor Substitute

5V

J12-1

BK

(J12-1>2.7k>J12-2)

(RD-VI-RD)

Fuser Temp

GND

J12-2

BK

New Paper In Sensor

(was narrow sensor)

0-5V

J14-1

RD

(Splice J14-1 wire to Sensor)

 

5V

J14-2

WT

7

Pad no.’s = Pin no.’s

SCK

GND

J14-3

BK

4

GND

 

Sensor

RD

(Splice Sensor wire to J14-1)

 

 

Sensor

BL

5

(4.99k to PAD 8 VCC)

MOSI

GND

Sensor

BK

4

Pad no.’s = Pin no.’s

GND

Manual Feed

Paper Sensor

5V (1.1V)

J23-1

BL

Open

 

5V

J23-2

WT

6

MISO

GND

J23-3

BK

4

GND

Duplex Sensor

5V (1.1V)



(Message over 64 KB, truncated)

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-04-06 by Mark

Roger,

This usually happens if the NPIS doesn't see the hole in the carrier. Did you remember to drill one?

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: "Roger Blair Roger.Blair@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
Sent: Apr 5, 2015 10:33 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed



Hi Mark (& Marc), again...
I found a few overlooked corresponding emails from earlier in time, and with a little more information... I have just completed wiring the printer as follows, and have a fault:

E260dn DLP Hookup

Device

Function

Conn

Color

ATtiny13 MCU

Function

Operator Panel

3.3V

J5-5

BL

2

Pad no.’s = Pin no.’s

PB3

Cover Open

Switch Wires

5V

J7-1

YE

8

VCC

5V

J7-2

RD

GND

J7-3

BK

4

GND

Thermistor Substitute

5V

J12-1

BK

(J12-1>2.7k>J12-2)

(RD-VI-RD)

Fuser Temp

GND

J12-2

BK

New Paper In Sensor

(was narrow sensor)

0-5V

J14-1

RD

(Splice J14-1 wire to Sensor)

 

5V

J14-2

WT

7

Pad no.’s = Pin no.’s

SCK

GND

J14-3

BK

4

GND

 

Sensor

RD

(Splice Sensor wire to J14-1)

 

 

Sensor

BL

5

(4.99k to PAD 8 VCC)

MOSI

GND

Sensor

BK

4

Pad no.’s = Pin no.’s

GND

Manual Feed

Paper Sensor

5V (1.1V)

J23-1

BL

Open

 

5V

J23-2

WT

6

MISO

GND

J23-3

BK

4

GND

Duplex Sensor

5V (1.1V)

J27-1

RD

Cut

 

5V

J27-2

WT

Cut

 

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-04-06 by Roger Blair

Mark,
Yes, I have the hole drilled as specified, .026 D (#71 drill I think), 4mm ED, 2.5" from sensor CL. as pictured. Upon initialization, I checked voltages as indicated in the second chart below.  I measured  the resistor on the board you provided, which is marked 3002 and measures 30.1k. I thought that was to be 4.99k. Could that be the problem?
Thanks,
Roger


E260dn DLP Hookup

Device

Function

Conn

Color

ATtiny13 MCU

Function

Operator Panel

3.3V

J5-5

BL

2

Pad no.’s = Pin no.’s

PB3

Cover Open

Switch Wires

5V

J7-1

YE

8

VCC

5V

J7-2

RD

GND

J7-3

BK

4

GND

Thermistor Substitute

5V

J12-1

BK

(J12-1>2.7k>J12-2)

(RD-VI-RD)

Fuser Temp

GND

J12-2

BK

New Paper In Sensor

(was narrow sensor)

0-5V

J14-1

RD

(Splice J14-1 wire to Sensor)

 

5V

J14-2

WT

7

Pad no.’s = Pin no.’s

SCK

GND

J14-3

BK

4

GND

 

Sensor

RD

(Splice Sensor wire to J14-1)

 

 

Sensor

BL

5

(4.99k to PAD 8 VCC?)

(Measures 30.1k)

MOSI

GND

Sensor

BK

4

GND

Manual Feed

Paper Sensor

5V (1.1V)

J23-1

BL

Open

Pad no.’s = Pin no.’s

 

5V

J23-2

WT

6

MISO

GND

J23-3

BK

4

GND

Duplex Sensor

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-04-06 by Roger Blair

Mark,
I have resolved one issue... Cleaning with Acetone didn't do good enough of a job. After re-cleaning the carrier with mild detergent and scotchbrite, Drying with fresh clean cotton dish towel, I am not getting the paper jam indication upon the first pull, and am not getting residual toner on the sheet. Poor conductivity at first, I think. However now, when I print from the PC, the carrier pulls in to about.75 past the trigger hole, and stops with a jam. Is this likely due to the high resistance of the pullup resistor (30.1k) preventing the trigger from working?
Thanks,
Roger


On 4/5/2015 5:31 PM, Mark mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

Roger,

This usually happens if the NPIS doesn't see the hole in the carrier. Did you remember to drill one?

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: "Roger Blair Roger.Blair@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
Sent: Apr 5, 2015 10:33 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed



Hi Mark (& Marc), again...
I found a few overlooked corresponding emails from earlier in time, and with a little more information... I have just completed wiring the printer as follows, and have a fault:

E260dn DLP Hookup

Device

Function

Conn

Color

ATtiny13 MCU

Function

Operator Panel

3.3V

J5-5

BL

2

Pad no.’s = Pin no.’s

PB3

Cover Open

Switch Wires

5V

J7-1

YE

8

VCC

5V

J7-2

RD

GND

J7-3

BK

4

GND

Thermistor Substitute

5V

J12-1

BK

(J12-1>2.7k>J12-2)

(RD-VI-RD)

Fuser Temp

GND

J12-2

BK

New Paper In Sensor

(was narrow sensor)

0-5V

J14-1

RD

(Splice J14-1 wire to Sensor)

 

5V

J14-2

WT

7

Pad no.’s = Pin no.’s

SCK

GND

J14-3

BK

4

GND

 

Sensor

RD

(Splice Sensor wire to J14-1)

 

 

Sensor

BL

5

(4.99k to PAD 8 VCC)

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-04-06 by Mark Lerman

Roger,

Sorry about the resistor. The 30K was used in a previous version that used a reflective sensor - It should be about 5K. The higher resistor should work (I think), but it will be more susceptible to noise. If you send it back I will be happy to replace the resistor. If you prefer I can just send you a new resistor and you can replace it yourself.

To see if it is the resistor,  turn the machine on and put a voltmeter from ground to the sensor's collector (the end of the resistor NOT connected to the 5 volt supply). With the carrier  blocking the sensor, it should read 5 volts. When the hole reaches the sensor it should drop to near 0 volts, then go back up after the hole passes through. Do this by manually moving the carrier because it might be hard to see without a scope in real time.

Mark

At 12:07 AM 4/6/2015, you wrote:


Mark,
I have resolved one issue... Cleaning with Acetone didn't do good enough of a job. After re-cleaning the carrier with mild detergent and scotchbrite, Drying with fresh clean cotton dish towel, I am not getting the paper jam indication upon the first pull, and am not getting residual toner on the sheet. Poor conductivity at first, I think. However now, when I print from the PC, the carrier pulls in to about.75 past the trigger hole, and stops with a jam. Is this likely due to the high resistance of the pullup resistor (30.1k) preventing the trigger from working?
Thanks,
Roger


On 4/5/2015 5:31 PM, Mark mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

Roger,

This usually happens if the NPIS doesn't see the hole in the carrier. Did you remember to drill one?

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: "Roger Blair Roger.Blair@... [Homebrew_PCBs]"
Sent: Apr 5, 2015 10:33 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed



Hi Mark (& Marc), again...
I found a few overlooked corresponding emails from earlier in time, and with a little more information... I have just completed wiring the printer as follows, and have a fault:

E260dn DLP Hookup

Device

Function

Conn

Color

ATtiny13 MCU

Function

Operator Panel

3.3V

J5-5

BL

2

Pad no.’s = Pin no.’s

PB3

Cover Open

Switch Wires

5V

J7-1

YE

8

VCC

5V

J7-2

RD

GND

J7-3

BK

4

GND

Thermistor Substitute

5V

J12-1

BK

(J12-1>2.7k>J12-2)

(RD-VI-RD)

Fuser Temp

GND

J12-2

BK

New Paper In Sensor

(was narrow sensor)

0-5V

J14-1

RD

(Splice J14-1 wire to Sensor)

Â

5V

J14-2

WT

7

Pad no.’s = Pin no.’s

SCK

GND

J14-3

BK

4

GND

Â

Sensor

RD

(Splice Sensor wire to J14-1)

Â

Â

Sensor

BL

5

(4.99k to PAD 8 VCC)

MOSI

GND

Sensor

BK

4

Pad no.’s = Pin no.’s

GND

Manual Feed

Paper Sensor

5V (1.1V)

J23-1

BL

Open

Â

5V

J23-2

WT

6

MISO

GND

J23-3

BK

4

GND

Duplex Sensor

5V (1.1V)

J27-1

RD

Cut

Â

5V

J27-2

WT

Cut

Â

GND

J27-3

BK

Cut

Â

Exit Sensor

5V (>0V)

J27-4

BL

Open

Â

5V

J27-5

WT

3

PB4

GND

J27-6

BK

4

GND
On power up with cartridge in place, the printer initializes OK. When I insert a carrier and press X, the carried is pulled in about half an inch or more (variable), stopping with a paper jamb indicated. Pressing continue a number of times eventually pulls the carrier clear of the drum, while still indicating  a jamb. If I cycle the power switch with the carrier in position, upon initialization the carrier is automatically pulled through completely. There is a light dusting of toner on both sides of the carrier whenever it goes through the machine.. It appears that I have something amiss...
Being near the bottom of the electronics food chain, I could use some guidance.
Thanks,
Roger


Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-04-06 by Roger Blair

Mark,
I am still unable to get a print started... With the carrier removed the Pin (Pad) 5 to GND values are 5.02V and 80mV. in passing the hole, it switches between 5.02 and 126mV, only if perfectly centered (both X & Y) on the led. This implies that the hole is too small. so I re-drilled the 0.026" hole to 0.030" and shimmed the sensor to exactly center the X dimension. I now have 5.02V & 90.2mV. which I expect to be good... Nevertheless, I paralleled a 5600 ohm discreet across the 30k resistor, with a resulting resistance reading of 4.76k.
After pressing X with a good pull-in (no jam indicated) and then executing a  print command, I still get a paper jam, with the carrier stopping with the trigger hole 0.55" to 0.65"  past the CL of the sensor. I can then block the sensor and press continue to have the machine eject the carrier. Recycling power will restore the normal state. Any ideas?
Perhaps I should replace the board... I don't have means to re-program.
Thanks,
Roger


On 4/6/2015 5:31 AM, Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

Roger,

Sorry about the resistor. The 30K was used in a previous version that used a reflective sensor - It should be about 5K. The higher resistor should work (I think), but it will be more susceptible to noise. If you send it back I will be happy to replace the resistor. If you prefer I can just send you a new resistor and you can replace it yourself.

To see if it is the resistor,  turn the machine on and put a voltmeter from ground to the sensor's collector (the end of the resistor NOT connected to the 5 volt supply). With the carrier  blocking the sensor, it should read 5 volts. When the hole reaches the sensor it should drop to near 0 volts, then go back up after the hole passes through. Do this by manually moving the carrier because it might be hard to see without a scope in real time.

Mark

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-04-06 by Mark Lerman


I'll think about it overnight, but there are some other things that can cause this.

At 06:12 PM 4/6/2015, you wrote:


Mark,
I am still unable to get a print started... With the carrier removed the Pin (Pad) 5 to GND values are 5.02V and 80mV. in passing the hole, it switches between 5.02 and 126mV, only if perfectly centered (both X & Y) on the led. This implies that the hole is too small. so I re-drilled the 0.026" hole to 0.030" and shimmed the sensor to exactly center the X dimension. I now have 5.02V & 90.2mV. which I expect to be good... Nevertheless, I paralleled a 5600 ohm discreet across the 30k resistor, with a resulting resistance reading of 4.76k.
After pressing X with a good pull-in (no jam indicated) and then executing a  print command, I still get a paper jam, with the carrier stopping with the trigger hole 0.55" to 0.65"  past the CL of the sensor. I can then block the sensor and press continue to have the machine eject the carrier. Recycling power will restore the normal state. Any ideas?
Perhaps I should replace the board... I don't have means to re-program.
Thanks,
Roger


On 4/6/2015 5:31 AM, Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

Roger,

Sorry about the resistor. The 30K was used in a previous version that used a reflective sensor - It should be about 5K. The higher resistor should work (I think), but it will be more susceptible to noise. If you send it back I will be happy to replace the resistor. If you prefer I can just send you a new resistor and you can replace it yourself.

To see if it is the resistor,  turn the machine on and put a voltmeter from ground to the sensor's collector (the end of the resistor NOT connected to the 5 volt supply). With the carrier  blocking the sensor, it should read 5 volts. When the hole reaches the sensor it should drop to near 0 volts, then go back up after the hole passes through. Do this by manually moving the carrier because it might be hard to see without a scope in real time.

Mark


Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-04-08 by Mark Lerman

Roger,

About the only other thing I can think of is some sort of slippage, where the carrier doesn't advance quickly enough and it "times out". One thing we could try, if you want. Send me your board and I'll try it in one of my machines. I think you have my address.

Mark

At 06:12 PM 4/6/2015, you wrote:


Mark,
I am still unable to get a print started... With the carrier removed the Pin (Pad) 5 to GND values are 5.02V and 80mV. in passing the hole, it switches between 5.02 and 126mV, only if perfectly centered (both X & Y) on the led. This implies that the hole is too small. so I re-drilled the 0.026" hole to 0.030" and shimmed the sensor to exactly center the X dimension. I now have 5.02V & 90.2mV. which I expect to be good... Nevertheless, I paralleled a 5600 ohm discreet across the 30k resistor, with a resulting resistance reading of 4.76k.
After pressing X with a good pull-in (no jam indicated) and then executing a  print command, I still get a paper jam, with the carrier stopping with the trigger hole 0.55" to 0.65"  past the CL of the sensor. I can then block the sensor and press continue to have the machine eject the carrier. Recycling power will restore the normal state. Any ideas?
Perhaps I should replace the board... I don't have means to re-program.
Thanks,
Roger


On 4/6/2015 5:31 AM, Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

Roger,

Sorry about the resistor. The 30K was used in a previous version that used a reflective sensor - It should be about 5K. The higher resistor should work (I think), but it will be more susceptible to noise. If you send it back I will be happy to replace the resistor. If you prefer I can just send you a new resistor and you can replace it yourself.

To see if it is the resistor,  turn the machine on and put a voltmeter from ground to the sensor's collector (the end of the resistor NOT connected to the 5 volt supply). With the carrier  blocking the sensor, it should read 5 volts. When the hole reaches the sensor it should drop to near 0 volts, then go back up after the hole passes through. Do this by manually moving the carrier because it might be hard to see without a scope in real time.

Mark


Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-04-12 by Mark Lerman

Roger,

One other thing that could cause this is the position of the hole when you start the print. The timing is rather loose, but the hole cannot be too far from the sensor when you start, probably 1.5 inches would be the max. Haven't measured it.

Mark



At 07:41 AM 4/8/2015, you wrote:


Roger,

About the only other thing I can think of is some sort of slippage, where the carrier doesn't advance quickly enough and it "times out". One thing we could try, if you want. Send me your board and I'll try it in one of my machines. I think you have my address.

Mark

At 06:12 PM 4/6/2015, you wrote:


Mark,
I am still unable to get a print started... With the carrier removed the Pin (Pad) 5 to GND values are 5.02V and 80mV. in passing the hole, it switches between 5.02 and 126mV, only if perfectly centered (both X & Y) on the led. This implies that the hole is too small. so I re-drilled the 0.026" hole to 0.030" and shimmed the sensor to exactly center the X dimension. I now have 5.02V & 90.2mV. which I expect to be good... Nevertheless, I paralleled a 5600 ohm discreet across the 30k resistor, with a resulting resistance reading of 4.76k.
After pressing X with a good pull-in (no jam indicated) and then executing a  print command, I still get a paper jam, with the carrier stopping with the trigger hole 0.55" to 0.65"  past the CL of the sensor. I can then block the sensor and press continue to have the machine eject the carrier. Recycling power will restore the normal state. Any ideas?
Perhaps I should replace the board... I don't have means to re-program.
Thanks,
Roger


On 4/6/2015 5:31 AM, Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

Roger,

Sorry about the resistor. The 30K was used in a previous version that used a reflective sensor - It should be about 5K. The higher resistor should work (I think), but it will be more susceptible to noise. If you send it back I will be happy to replace the resistor. If you prefer I can just send you a new resistor and you can replace it yourself.

To see if it is the resistor,  turn the machine on and put a voltmeter from ground to the sensor's collector (the end of the resistor NOT connected to the 5 volt supply). With the carrier  blocking the sensor, it should read 5 volts. When the hole reaches the sensor it should drop to near 0 volts, then go back up after the hole passes through. Do this by manually moving the carrier because it might be hard to see without a scope in real time.

Mark



Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-04-12 by Roger Blair

Mark,
I used the following guidance from your tutorial:
" Slide the carrier through the slot of the NPIS with the leading edge at the interface of the input rollers. Holding the Carrier against the Carrier Guide, mark the carrier 2.5 inches from the center of the NPIS. Now drill a small hole 4mm from the edge of the Carrier. I used a .026 inch drill, but anything in that range or a bit larger should work just as well. See [Photos]."
This puts the hole 0.90" before the CL of the NPIS after the initial X pull-in. At that point, the green ready light is on with no jam light, so this seems to be OK, and ready for a print command from the PC. am I correct?
Roger

On 4/11/2015 6:15 PM, Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

Roger,

One other thing that could cause this is the position of the hole when you start the print. The timing is rather loose, but the hole cannot be too far from the sensor when you start, probably 1.5 inches would be the max. Haven't measured it.

Mark



At 07:41 AM 4/8/2015, you wrote:


Roger,

About the only other thing I can think of is some sort of slippage, where the carrier doesn't advance quickly enough and it "times out". One thing we could try, if you want. Send me your board and I'll try it in one of my machines. I think you have my address.

Mark

At 06:12 PM 4/6/2015, you wrote:


Mark,
I am still unable to get a print started... With the carrier removed the Pin (Pad) 5 to GND values are 5.02V and 80mV. in passing the hole, it switches between 5.02 and 126mV, only if perfectly centered (both X & Y) on the led. This implies that the hole is too small. so I re-drilled the 0.026" hole to 0.030" and shimmed the sensor to exactly center the X dimension. I now have 5.02V & 90.2mV. which I expect to be good... Nevertheless, I paralleled a 5600 ohm discreet across the 30k resistor, with a resulting resistance reading of 4.76k.
After pressing X with a good pull-in (no jam indicated) and then executing a  print command, I still get a paper jam, with the carrier stopping with the trigger hole 0.55" to 0.65"  past the CL of the sensor. I can then block the sensor and press continue to have the machine eject the carrier. Recycling power will restore the normal state. Any ideas?
Perhaps I should replace the board... I don't have means to re-program.
Thanks,
Roger


On 4/6/2015 5:31 AM, Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

Roger,

Sorry about the resistor. The 30K was used in a previous version that used a reflective sensor - It should be about 5K. The higher resistor should work (I think), but it will be more susceptible to noise. If you send it back I will be happy to replace the resistor. If you prefer I can just send you a new resistor and you can replace it yourself.

To see if it is the resistor,  turn the machine on and put a voltmeter from ground to the sensor's collector (the end of the resistor NOT connected to the 5 volt supply). With the carrier  blocking the sensor, it should read 5 volts. When the hole reaches the sensor it should drop to near 0 volts, then go back up after the hole passes through. Do this by manually moving the carrier because it might be hard to see without a scope in real time.

Mark




--
Dell XPS8700 256GB SSD 2TB HD 24.0 GB RAM Win8.1 64-bit Intel x64 8 Core(TM) i7-4770 CPU@3.40GHz 3.40 GHz

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: DLP MCU version troubleshooting, help needed

2015-04-12 by Roger Blair

Mark,
This is a follow-up to add what I should have in my previous message. Upon executing the print command, the NPIS trigger hole moves to 0.6" After the CL of the NPIS and stops with the jam light  coming on. This is an intermittent condition! Sometimes the jam light comes on upon X pull-in.
Roger


On 4/11/2015 6:15 PM, Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

Roger,

One other thing that could cause this is the position of the hole when you start the print. The timing is rather loose, but the hole cannot be too far from the sensor when you start, probably 1.5 inches would be the max. Haven't measured it.

Mark



At 07:41 AM 4/8/2015, you wrote:


Roger,

About the only other thing I can think of is some sort of slippage, where the carrier doesn't advance quickly enough and it "times out". One thing we could try, if you want. Send me your board and I'll try it in one of my machines. I think you have my address.

Mark

At 06:12 PM 4/6/2015, you wrote:


Mark,
I am still unable to get a print started... With the carrier removed the Pin (Pad) 5 to GND values are 5.02V and 80mV. in passing the hole, it switches between 5.02 and 126mV, only if perfectly centered (both X & Y) on the led. This implies that the hole is too small. so I re-drilled the 0.026" hole to 0.030" and shimmed the sensor to exactly center the X dimension. I now have 5.02V & 90.2mV. which I expect to be good... Nevertheless, I paralleled a 5600 ohm discreet across the 30k resistor, with a resulting resistance reading of 4.76k.
After pressing X with a good pull-in (no jam indicated) and then executing a  print command, I still get a paper jam, with the carrier stopping with the trigger hole 0.55" to 0.65"  past the CL of the sensor. I can then block the sensor and press continue to have the machine eject the carrier. Recycling power will restore the normal state. Any ideas?
Perhaps I should replace the board... I don't have means to re-program.
Thanks,
Roger


On 4/6/2015 5:31 AM, Mark Lerman mlerman@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
 

Roger,

Sorry about the resistor. The 30K was used in a previous version that used a reflective sensor - It should be about 5K. The higher resistor should work (I think), but it will be more susceptible to noise. If you send it back I will be happy to replace the resistor. If you prefer I can just send you a new resistor and you can replace it yourself.

To see if it is the resistor,  turn the machine on and put a voltmeter from ground to the sensor's collector (the end of the resistor NOT connected to the 5 volt supply). With the carrier  blocking the sensor, it should read 5 volts. When the hole reaches the sensor it should drop to near 0 volts, then go back up after the hole passes through. Do this by manually moving the carrier because it might be hard to see without a scope in real time.

Mark




--
Dell XPS8700 256GB SSD 2TB HD 24.0 GB RAM Win8.1 64-bit Intel x64 8 Core(TM) i7-4770 CPU@3.40GHz 3.40 GHz