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Homebrew Tool Changer

Homebrew Tool Changer

2003-12-02 by bsjoelund

Hi,

I´m looking for small/miniature tool changer for PCB drilling.
Any links - pictures - ideas ??

Bengt

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Homebrew Tool Changer

2003-12-03 by mpdickens

--- bsjoelund <tecnoconsult@...> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I�m looking for small/miniature tool changer for PCB
> drilling.
> Any links - pictures - ideas ??

Hello Bengt,

This is robotics and robotics is as much an art as a
science. Further, robotics can provide humbling
experiences as well as be exceptionally rewarding
(Both experiences the same time...). For drill bits,
excluding the ability to position the head of the
drill (The head of the drill is called a chuck in the
America. I don't know what they call it elsewhere...)
at the correct latitude/logitude/altitude, you going
to need quantity-4 servo motors and quanity-1
sensor.(I don't think you can change a drill bit with
less than four motors and one sensor). Three of the
motors *must* have a high tork and all motors must
step in fine steps.

Some drills have keyless chucks and some have keyed
chucks. This example assumes a keyed chuck:

Motor A: Pushes the key up to and into the chuck.
Motor B: Adjusts the key to fit the gears of the chuck
Motor C: Rotates key to tighten/loosen the chuck
Motor D: Rotates what is known as a "lazy susan"

A lazy susan is a round table that in this case has
holes in it that the drill bits sit in (Standing up)
The drill bits are changed over the lazy susan.
Further, the lazy susan rotates.

It would work like this:

The drill head has no drill bit in it. The drill head
now moves over to the lazy susan. The head is lowered
down to the lazy susan directly over the desired drill
bill. Motor A pushes the key up to and into the chuch
while Motor B is *slowly* rotating the key. Once the
gears on the key catch with the gears on the chuck
(This is a predetermined distance plus or minus a
small distance. The gear catch is also monitored by a
senor that measures tork. Further, They make chips
that measure tork), Motor A stops and Motor B
continues to turn the key to tighten the chuck (This
is a predetermined number of rotations for each drill
bit and size. Also, tightening is monitored by
another tork sensor). The sensors are "fail safes" for
the both distance and tork which is predetermined,
but *estimated*. Once the prodecure is complete your
good to go. Reverse the processes to take the bit out
of the drill head/chuck.

What you want to do requires very fine motor steps
combined with software that does not glitch during the
process. This process definately is an embedded system
thing and should be automomous: In other words, the
drill files should be handed to the embedded system
and the computer that hands the embedded system the
drill file should stay out of the process (Which
greatly simplifies the software. Further, this makes
debugging MUCH MUCH MUCH easier...)

If I were going to do this, I would look at:

A.) Existing products and how they work mechanically.
B.) Tape libraries for extra idea's and inspiration.

Figure everything out that you can before purchasing
anything, spinning the first wrench or writing any
code. Also, draw schematics of how it's going to be
buildt and how it will work. Flow chart the software.
Keep damn good notes while
building/programing/testing.
Keep rescipts from your purchases in case you buy the
wrong part and want to return it. Do business with
small to medium size companies while prototyping. Cut
a deal with them that you can return anything you
don't need if you have not used it and it's not
special order (Anybody who will not cut this type of
deal, don't do business with them. Don't fall for the
15% restock BS fee. There are too many companies out
there that will work with you the right way).

Good luck and best regards


Marvin Dickens
Alpharetta, Georgia USA

=====
Registered Linux User No. 80253
If you use linux, get counted at:
http://www.linuxcounter.org

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RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Homebrew Tool Changer

2003-12-03 by Dave Hylands

Here's a set of tool changer plans for a Sherline Headstock:
http://home.insightbb.com/~joevicar3/default.htm

It uses a single air cylinder - no motors.

--
Dave Hylands
Vancouver, BC, Canada
http://www.DaveHylands.com/


> -----Original Message-----
> From: mpdickens [mailto:md30022@...]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2003 9:37 PM
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Homebrew Tool Changer
>
>
>
> --- bsjoelund <tecnoconsult@...> wrote:
> > Hi,
> >
> > I´m looking for small/miniature tool changer for PCB drilling.
> > Any links - pictures - ideas ??
>
> Hello Bengt,
>
> This is robotics and robotics is as much an art as a
> science. Further, robotics can provide humbling
> experiences as well as be exceptionally rewarding
> (Both experiences the same time...). For drill bits,
> excluding the ability to position the head of the
> drill (The head of the drill is called a chuck in the
> America. I don't know what they call it elsewhere...)
> at the correct latitude/logitude/altitude, you going
> to need quantity-4 servo motors and quanity-1
> sensor.(I don't think you can change a drill bit with
> less than four motors and one sensor). Three of the
> motors *must* have a high tork and all motors must
> step in fine steps.
>
> Some drills have keyless chucks and some have keyed
> chucks. This example assumes a keyed chuck:
>
> Motor A: Pushes the key up to and into the chuck.
> Motor B: Adjusts the key to fit the gears of the chuck
> Motor C: Rotates key to tighten/loosen the chuck
> Motor D: Rotates what is known as a "lazy susan"
>
> A lazy susan is a round table that in this case has
> holes in it that the drill bits sit in (Standing up)
> The drill bits are changed over the lazy susan.
> Further, the lazy susan rotates.
>
> It would work like this:
>
> The drill head has no drill bit in it. The drill head
> now moves over to the lazy susan. The head is lowered
> down to the lazy susan directly over the desired drill
> bill. Motor A pushes the key up to and into the chuch
> while Motor B is *slowly* rotating the key. Once the
> gears on the key catch with the gears on the chuck
> (This is a predetermined distance plus or minus a
> small distance. The gear catch is also monitored by a
> senor that measures tork. Further, They make chips
> that measure tork), Motor A stops and Motor B
> continues to turn the key to tighten the chuck (This
> is a predetermined number of rotations for each drill
> bit and size. Also, tightening is monitored by
> another tork sensor). The sensors are "fail safes" for
> the both distance and tork which is predetermined,
> but *estimated*. Once the prodecure is complete your
> good to go. Reverse the processes to take the bit out
> of the drill head/chuck.
>
> What you want to do requires very fine motor steps
> combined with software that does not glitch during the
> process. This process definately is an embedded system
> thing and should be automomous: In other words, the
> drill files should be handed to the embedded system
> and the computer that hands the embedded system the
> drill file should stay out of the process (Which
> greatly simplifies the software. Further, this makes
> debugging MUCH MUCH MUCH easier...)
>
> If I were going to do this, I would look at:
>
> A.) Existing products and how they work mechanically.
> B.) Tape libraries for extra idea's and inspiration.
>
> Figure everything out that you can before purchasing
> anything, spinning the first wrench or writing any
> code. Also, draw schematics of how it's going to be
> buildt and how it will work. Flow chart the software.
> Keep damn good notes while
> building/programing/testing.
> Keep rescipts from your purchases in case you buy the
> wrong part and want to return it. Do business with
> small to medium size companies while prototyping. Cut
> a deal with them that you can return anything you
> don't need if you have not used it and it's not
> special order (Anybody who will not cut this type of
> deal, don't do business with them. Don't fall for the
> 15% restock BS fee. There are too many companies out
> there that will work with you the right way).
>
> Good luck and best regards
>
>
> Marvin Dickens
> Alpharetta, Georgia USA
>
> =====
> Registered Linux User No. 80253
> If you use linux, get counted at:
> http://www.linuxcounter.org
>
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