Homebrew_PCBs

On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 6:40 PM, Robin Whittle <rw@...> wrote:

Hi Andreas,

Thanks for this:

http://nicadrone.com/index.php?id_cms=14&controller=cms

I suggest you add links to supplier sites to save folks searching:

http://stores.ebay.com/PCB-Depot

A great range of single- and double-sided FR4 material
in various copper and FR4 thicknesses, and in various
sheet sizes, with free shipping in the USA.

(BTW, for people outside the USA, http://www.shipito.com
is a mailbox - shipping company which can accept parcels
consolidate, repack etc. and ship to almost any country.)

They also have some intriguing non-copper-coated materials
including thin, flexible, sheets and a big range of Loctite
products.

http://www.ebay.com/usr/goldpart

They have a plethora of products. The trick is to find the
spray on resist . . . Is this it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Photoresist-Anti-etching-Blue-Paint-Resist-Remover-Developer-For-DIY-PCB-Kit-/221355174272?hash=item3389cbe980

You wrote that this is a positive resist, but I think it is negative,
just as Riston film is a negative resist. A black part of the artwork
protects the resist from being exposed to UV, which prevents it from
being polymerized. Then it washes away, so that is where the copper
will not remain. So we have clear lines on the artwork where we want
copper - AKA "negative".

It seems that you don't use the developer - you just wash the unexposed
material away in ethanol.

What sort of etchant do you use?

How do you strip the resist after etching?

A final photo on your page doesn't render in Firefox, apparently due to
some errors:

http://nicadrone.com/img/DSC00649.JPG

I have written in this mailing list on success with Riston using a 10
Watt UV LED:

http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Homebrew_PCBs/conversations/topics/32652

- Robin http://www.firstpr.com.au/pcb-diy/

On Thu, Jan 16, 2014 at 11:12 AM, ctech <ctech4285@...> wrote:

thanks for your feedback!

corrected the 'positive resist', added a bit more info on the suppliers, and the last picture should render now

gonna write up the etching process maybe tomorrow in part 2

On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 6:40 PM, Robin Whittle <rw@...> wrote:

Hi Andreas,

Thanks for this:

http://nicadrone.com/index.php?id_cms=14&controller=cms

I suggest you add links to supplier sites to save folks searching:

http://stores.ebay.com/PCB-Depot

A great range of single- and double-sided FR4 material
in various copper and FR4 thicknesses, and in various
sheet sizes, with free shipping in the USA.

(BTW, for people outside the USA, http://www.shipito.com
is a mailbox - shipping company which can accept parcels
consolidate, repack etc. and ship to almost any country.)

They also have some intriguing non-copper-coated materials
including thin, flexible, sheets and a big range of Loctite
products.

http://www.ebay.com/usr/goldpart

They have a plethora of products. The trick is to find the
spray on resist . . . Is this it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Photoresist-Anti-etching-Blue-Paint-Resist-Remover-Developer-For-DIY-PCB-Kit-/221355174272?hash=item3389cbe980

You wrote that this is a positive resist, but I think it is negative,
just as Riston film is a negative resist. A black part of the artwork
protects the resist from being exposed to UV, which prevents it from
being polymerized. Then it washes away, so that is where the copper
will not remain. So we have clear lines on the artwork where we want
copper - AKA "negative".

It seems that you don't use the developer - you just wash the unexposed
material away in ethanol.

What sort of etchant do you use?

How do you strip the resist after etching?

A final photo on your page doesn't render in Firefox, apparently due to
some errors:

http://nicadrone.com/img/DSC00649.JPG

I have written in this mailing list on success with Riston using a 10
Watt UV LED:

http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Homebrew_PCBs/conversations/topics/32652

- Robin http://www.firstpr.com.au/pcb-diy/

On Sat, Jan 18, 2014 at 7:14 AM, <dgh2259@...> wrote:

Hello Andreas,

I apologize if I have missed something here, but why are you using "reverse" electroplating and ferric chloride, when the Ferric chloride will do the same job alone? is it for speed? I also note the current you are using is "massive" In normal electroplating i.e. copper plating, I use less than 1 amp and it achieves the desired results! a rule of thumb being " less amps better finish!" is this also to speed up the process?

Many thanks

David