Today I tried the often mentioned HP Everyday Photo Paper (it's inkjet paper). It seemed to go through my Fuji Xerox laser without any of the coating coming off BUT it did not work like I've heard it would when I tried to iron the toner onto the copper.
I'd heard that this paper just melts when you put it in water afterwards. Maybe it did at one point but it doesn't any more. BOTH sides of the paper seem to have a glue-like durable plastic coating that is waterproof and sticks to the copper like strong glue.
I believe my Fuji laser printer uses a lower toner temperature than other laser printers, supposedly new technology to save energy by requiring a lower drum temperature. Other lasers may be more at risk if their drum temperatures are higher. I've heard Brother toner melts at a higher temperature than most others so maybe they have the highest drum temperatures of all (this is all guesswork) and run the most risk of getting this plastic coating melting on the drum.
From what I've heard on various forums these coatings do get sticky when heat is applied, so I'd guess there is a risk of it sticking to a laser printers drum.
After one try of the toner transfer method (today, complete disaster), I'm focussing my efforts on the UV exposure method. I've heard enough stories of hit and miss success with toner transfer, but lots of stories of good repeatable quality using the UV method. Seems all the planets have to be aligned to get it right with TT, right printer/toner, right paper/transfer sheet, correct heat, correct pressure, even pressure, well prepared copper surface.
Sorry I'm very would up and frustrated after my first attempt today LOL.
Keith.
---In homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com, <wb8nbs@...> wrote:
I don't think the clay will melt and stick to the printer (Fuser), but the toner will... if it's laid down really wide and thick. I've had this happen when printing large letters to use as a woodworking pattern. Difficult to remove the paper wound around the fuser in my Lexmark 4039 10+.
Years ago, I learned not to use copy machine rated overhead transparency material in an HP laser printer. VERY difficult to remove melted plastic from a fuser roller.
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--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Jim <n6otq@...> wrote:
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> Inkjet paper, particularly the inkjet paper made for photo printing, has a clay-coated surface that's almost but not completely waterproof. It has enough absorbency so that the water-based ink will adhere and soak in a few microns, and then dry swiftly.
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> Since toner is plastic-based, it adheres to the clay surface but not very well. When it's soaked in water, the clay surface separates easily, and anything that the toner is already stuck to will adhere to that, and not to the inkjet paper.
> Jim N6OTQ
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> On Thursday, October 10, 2013 9:50 PM, Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:
> >
> >> How do you know if the paper will melt in the printer - or is this an urban myth?! Obviously a laser printer heats the drum and the paper is passed over the drum, so there is potential for a sticky mess?
> >