Homebrew_PCBs

I thought I'd just post this tip I found out a while ago when I was in the
workshop cutting out some boards and tuning some plane blades...

After rough cutting a circuit board to size, you can use a hand plane (e.g.
http://fingerlakesguitarrepair.com/media/tuning%20a%209%2012%20stanley%20block%20plane/1.0%20stanley%20nine%20and%20a%20half%20block%20plane%20tune%20up.jpg)
to neaten the edges, turns out FR4 is even nicer to plane than wood...
who'd have known!?

I'm not sure how hard it's on the blade, but a couple of swipes resulted in
a glassy finish. I used a number 4 as it was what I had at hand at the
time, but a smaller block plane like the one above would be easier to use,
or perhaps a little bull nose plane (though they're more expensive than
block planes which can be had for a couple of pounds at a car boot sale).

Anyone else got any unexpectedly effective ways of either cutting or
tidying up boards?
--
Will


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I use a 0.0625" cross-hatch carbide routing burr in a 30KRPM laminate edge
router on a CNC drilling machine to route the edges after drilling, leaving
small tabs for easy separation. The burr makes a nice smooth edge. After
separation, a little 120-grit sand paper smooths off the tab remnants
easily.

Never thought about using a hand plane. I should think depth of cut would be
critical, i.e. you would want a VERY shallow cut. And a VERY sharp blade.
--
Phil M.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Will Price" <will.price94@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 1:25 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Tidying up circuit boards after cutting


>I thought I'd just post this tip I found out a while ago when I was in the
> workshop cutting out some boards and tuning some plane blades...
>
> After rough cutting a circuit board to size, you can use a hand plane
> (e.g.
> http://fingerlakesguitarrepair.com/media/tuning%20a%209%2012%20stanley%20block%20plane/1.0%20stanley%20nine%20and%20a%20half%20block%20plane%20tune%20up.jpg)
> to neaten the edges, turns out FR4 is even nicer to plane than wood...
> who'd have known!?
>
> I'm not sure how hard it's on the blade, but a couple of swipes resulted
> in
> a glassy finish. I used a number 4 as it was what I had at hand at the
> time, but a smaller block plane like the one above would be easier to use,
> or perhaps a little bull nose plane (though they're more expensive than
> block planes which can be had for a couple of pounds at a car boot sale).
>
> Anyone else got any unexpectedly effective ways of either cutting or
> tidying up boards?
> --
> Will
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 5:06 AM, Phil@Yahoo <yahoo@...> wrote:

> I use a 0.0625" cross-hatch carbide routing burr in a 30KRPM laminate edge
> router on a CNC drilling machine to route the edges after drilling, leaving
> small tabs for easy separation. The burr makes a nice smooth edge. After
> separation, a little 120-grit sand paper smooths off the tab remnants
> easily.
>
> Never thought about using a hand plane. I should think depth of cut would be
> critical, i.e. you would want a VERY shallow cut. And a VERY sharp blade.

Personal opinion here, not backed up with knowledge, but AFAIK FR-4
isn't very hard, it's just terribly abrasive, on account of the glass
fibres.

Mitch.

> Never thought about using a hand plane. I should think depth of cut would

be

> critical, i.e. you would want a VERY shallow cut. And a VERY sharp blade.

Compared to planing soft wood like plane, FR4 is no where near as finicky,
I don't think I even bothered adjusting the blade depth, it wasn't taking
that shallow a cut, but the blade was sharp, I treat anything I can't shave
my arm hair with as blunt.

--
Will


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

It sure won't stay that sharp for very long with FR4.

I suppose one could make a tiny edge plane with a piece of carbide as a blade.
Or maybe even use an insert, as-is without grinding.

ST

On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 10:56 AM, Will Price <will.price94@...> wrote:
>> Never thought about using a hand plane. I should think depth of cut would
> be
>> critical, i.e. you would want a VERY shallow cut. And a VERY sharp blade.
>
> Compared to planing soft wood like plane, FR4 is no where near as finicky,
> I don't think I even bothered adjusting the blade depth, it wasn't taking
> that shallow a cut, but the blade was sharp, I treat anything I can't shave
> my arm hair with as blunt.
>
> --
> Will
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>