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lye

lye

2013-03-30 by Rick Sparber

Has anyone used lye to etch aluminum through photo resist? 

 

As a test, I put a strip of aluminum in lye plus water and after 15 minutes
the strip was half of its original thickness. So there is no doubt that lye
can etch VERY deep. But the chemical reaction generated a lot of heat and
the tape I had on there quickly floated off. Next time I will use more
water.

 

I did have the lye and aluminum outside while I watched from inside. Nasty
fumes!

 

Thanks,

 

Rick



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-03-30 by Roland Harriston

Whew!

A really bad idea!

There are so many less dangerous materials that have been used to etch PCB's
that have proven to be relatively safe and very effective over the last 
50 or 60
years.

The task is not that complex or hazardous.....why make it so?

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
***********************



On 3/30/2013 7:31 AM, Rick Sparber wrote:
>
> Has anyone used lye to etch aluminum through photo resist?
>
> As a test, I put a strip of aluminum in lye plus water and after 15 
> minutes
> the strip was half of its original thickness. So there is no doubt 
> that lye
> can etch VERY deep. But the chemical reaction generated a lot of heat and
> the tape I had on there quickly floated off. Next time I will use more
> water.
>
> I did have the lye and aluminum outside while I watched from inside. Nasty
> fumes!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rick
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-03-30 by Harvey White

On Sat, 30 Mar 2013 07:31:42 -0700, you wrote:

>Has anyone used lye to etch aluminum through photo resist? 
>
> 
>
>As a test, I put a strip of aluminum in lye plus water and after 15 minutes
>the strip was half of its original thickness. So there is no doubt that lye
>can etch VERY deep. But the chemical reaction generated a lot of heat and
>the tape I had on there quickly floated off. Next time I will use more
>water.

I did so a long time ago with photoresist, the back of the aluminum
was protected, and it was potassium hydroxide not sodium hydroxide. It
did work, though.  I filled the etch with ink then lightly sanded the
surface.  Worked well.  

I'd do it with toner transfer were it not for the problems with
getting the entire piece of aluminum to temperature (as well as
potential thickness problems.  Possibly a T shirt press would work.

also need a negative mask.

Harvey
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> 
>
>I did have the lye and aluminum outside while I watched from inside. Nasty
>fumes!
>
> 
>
>Thanks,
>
> 
>
>Rick
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-03-30 by Rick Sparber

Roland,

In this case, I am etching aluminum, not copper. I know that ferric chloride
does not do much to aluminum.

I chose lye because it was easy to find at my Ace Hardware store and was
very low cost. Yet I see that the stuff is very active at full strength. I
assume that if I mix in more water, it would not be as aggressive nor
generate as much heat.

If I didn't use lye, what other commonly found chemical could etch aluminum.
I tried drain cleaner but it was far too slow and stopped etching after a
few minutes. I was left with a very slight roughness in the exposed area.

Rick
Show quoted textHide quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Roland Harriston
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2013 8:34 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

Whew!

A really bad idea!

There are so many less dangerous materials that have been used to etch PCB's
that have proven to be relatively safe and very effective over the last
50 or 60
years.

The task is not that complex or hazardous.....why make it so?

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
***********************



On 3/30/2013 7:31 AM, Rick Sparber wrote:
>
> Has anyone used lye to etch aluminum through photo resist?
>
> As a test, I put a strip of aluminum in lye plus water and after 15 
> minutes the strip was half of its original thickness. So there is no 
> doubt that lye can etch VERY deep. But the chemical reaction generated 
> a lot of heat and the tape I had on there quickly floated off. Next 
> time I will use more water.
>
> I did have the lye and aluminum outside while I watched from inside. 
> Nasty fumes!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rick
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

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RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-03-30 by Rick Sparber

How did you protect the back of the aluminum. I tried applying wax but I
think it melted off. Also tried electrical tape and it fell off. Maybe the
common factor here is the heat generated by the too strong lye/water
mixture. I was thinking about using a Q tip and just dip it in the lye/water
mixture and dab it on the masked off area.

I've had very poor luck with toner transfer. The closest I came to success
was with copper.

I will be using my new spray on photo resist and a contact print. But first
I want to perfect the etching process with just masking using tape, wax, or
??.

Rick 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Harvey White
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2013 8:36 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

On Sat, 30 Mar 2013 07:31:42 -0700, you wrote:

>Has anyone used lye to etch aluminum through photo resist? 
>
> 
>
>As a test, I put a strip of aluminum in lye plus water and after 15 
>minutes the strip was half of its original thickness. So there is no 
>doubt that lye can etch VERY deep. But the chemical reaction generated 
>a lot of heat and the tape I had on there quickly floated off. Next 
>time I will use more water.

I did so a long time ago with photoresist, the back of the aluminum was
protected, and it was potassium hydroxide not sodium hydroxide. It did work,
though.  I filled the etch with ink then lightly sanded the surface.  Worked
well.  

I'd do it with toner transfer were it not for the problems with getting the
entire piece of aluminum to temperature (as well as potential thickness
problems.  Possibly a T shirt press would work.

also need a negative mask.

Harvey

>
> 
>
>I did have the lye and aluminum outside while I watched from inside. 
>Nasty fumes!
>
> 
>
>Thanks,
>
> 
>
>Rick
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-03-30 by Harvey White

On Sat, 30 Mar 2013 08:48:37 -0700, you wrote:

>How did you protect the back of the aluminum. I tried applying wax but I
>think it melted off. Also tried electrical tape and it fell off. Maybe the
>common factor here is the heat generated by the too strong lye/water
>mixture. I was thinking about using a Q tip and just dip it in the lye/water
>mixture and dab it on the masked off area.

It's the heat.  You can use the transparent (I like transparent here)
shelf covering.  The one thing of the "Martha Stewart" brand that I'll
every buy.  Cut to size and the adhesive lasts through an etch.

You'd not want to etch too much here, you left it in way too long. I'd
definitely dilute the lye to get it to act more slowly.

Ferric chloride does react with aluminum, if not the ferric chloride
itself, then the excess chloride ions.  That's why they tell you never
to etch in an aluminum pan.

A Q tip of diluted mixture would work well, you can rinse it off and
see how deep it is.

>
>I've had very poor luck with toner transfer. The closest I came to success
>was with copper.

I use it on PC boards, works well once you get the parameters right.

>
>I will be using my new spray on photo resist and a contact print. But first
>I want to perfect the etching process with just masking using tape, wax, or
>??.

You may also want to try making a small dam with clay or plumber's
putty and etching only a small area (if needed).

Harvey
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
>Rick 
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
>On Behalf Of Harvey White
>Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2013 8:36 AM
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye
>
>On Sat, 30 Mar 2013 07:31:42 -0700, you wrote:
>
>>Has anyone used lye to etch aluminum through photo resist? 
>>
>> 
>>
>>As a test, I put a strip of aluminum in lye plus water and after 15 
>>minutes the strip was half of its original thickness. So there is no 
>>doubt that lye can etch VERY deep. But the chemical reaction generated 
>>a lot of heat and the tape I had on there quickly floated off. Next 
>>time I will use more water.
>
>I did so a long time ago with photoresist, the back of the aluminum was
>protected, and it was potassium hydroxide not sodium hydroxide. It did work,
>though.  I filled the etch with ink then lightly sanded the surface.  Worked
>well.  
>
>I'd do it with toner transfer were it not for the problems with getting the
>entire piece of aluminum to temperature (as well as potential thickness
>problems.  Possibly a T shirt press would work.
>
>also need a negative mask.
>
>Harvey
>
>>
>> 
>>
>>I did have the lye and aluminum outside while I watched from inside. 
>>Nasty fumes!
>>
>> 
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>> 
>>
>>Rick
>>
>>
>>
>>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-03-30 by Rick Sparber

Harvey,

Brilliant suggestions! Gotta try them all in the next day or two.

Thanks,

Rick
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Mar 30, 2013, at 9:01 AM, Harvey White <madyn@dragonworks.info> wrote:

> On Sat, 30 Mar 2013 08:48:37 -0700, you wrote:
> 
>> How did you protect the back of the aluminum. I tried applying wax but I
>> think it melted off. Also tried electrical tape and it fell off. Maybe the
>> common factor here is the heat generated by the too strong lye/water
>> mixture. I was thinking about using a Q tip and just dip it in the lye/water
>> mixture and dab it on the masked off area.
> 
> It's the heat.  You can use the transparent (I like transparent here)
> shelf covering.  The one thing of the "Martha Stewart" brand that I'll
> every buy.  Cut to size and the adhesive lasts through an etch.
> 
> You'd not want to etch too much here, you left it in way too long. I'd
> definitely dilute the lye to get it to act more slowly.
> 
> Ferric chloride does react with aluminum, if not the ferric chloride
> itself, then the excess chloride ions.  That's why they tell you never
> to etch in an aluminum pan.
> 
> A Q tip of diluted mixture would work well, you can rinse it off and
> see how deep it is.
> 
>> 
>> I've had very poor luck with toner transfer. The closest I came to success
>> was with copper.
> 
> I use it on PC boards, works well once you get the parameters right.
> 
>> 
>> I will be using my new spray on photo resist and a contact print. But first
>> I want to perfect the etching process with just masking using tape, wax, or
>> ??.
> 
> You may also want to try making a small dam with clay or plumber's
> putty and etching only a small area (if needed).
> 
> Harvey
> 
> 
>> 
>> Rick 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
>> On Behalf Of Harvey White
>> Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2013 8:36 AM
>> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye
>> 
>> On Sat, 30 Mar 2013 07:31:42 -0700, you wrote:
>> 
>>> Has anyone used lye to etch aluminum through photo resist? 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> As a test, I put a strip of aluminum in lye plus water and after 15 
>>> minutes the strip was half of its original thickness. So there is no 
>>> doubt that lye can etch VERY deep. But the chemical reaction generated 
>>> a lot of heat and the tape I had on there quickly floated off. Next 
>>> time I will use more water.
>> 
>> I did so a long time ago with photoresist, the back of the aluminum was
>> protected, and it was potassium hydroxide not sodium hydroxide. It did work,
>> though.  I filled the etch with ink then lightly sanded the surface.  Worked
>> well.  
>> 
>> I'd do it with toner transfer were it not for the problems with getting the
>> entire piece of aluminum to temperature (as well as potential thickness
>> problems.  Possibly a T shirt press would work.
>> 
>> also need a negative mask.
>> 
>> Harvey
>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I did have the lye and aluminum outside while I watched from inside. 
>>> Nasty fumes!
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Rick
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ------------------------------------
>> 
>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-03-30 by Roland Harriston

Does not matter what the metal is.........sodium hydroxide is nasty stuff.
Were you wearing eye protection??

A lot of stores won't carry it anymore in my neck of the woods
because it is so dangerous in the hands of inexperienced and 
ill-equipped users.

If you have the proper equipment and setup for using sodium hydroxide,
then it is okay.

But messing around with the stuff as you are doing is not only dangerous,
but also not very smart.

Get a hold of a few good books that tell how to do what you want to do,
and that explain what equipment/techniques you should have.

I bet a quick "Google" will get you the intelligence you need to
do the job.

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
**********************

On 3/30/2013 8:44 AM, Rick Sparber wrote:
>
> Roland,
>
> In this case, I am etching aluminum, not copper. I know that ferric 
> chloride
> does not do much to aluminum.
>
> I chose lye because it was easy to find at my Ace Hardware store and was
> very low cost. Yet I see that the stuff is very active at full strength. I
> assume that if I mix in more water, it would not be as aggressive nor
> generate as much heat.
>
> If I didn't use lye, what other commonly found chemical could etch 
> aluminum.
> I tried drain cleaner but it was far too slow and stopped etching after a
> few minutes. I was left with a very slight roughness in the exposed area.
>
> Rick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> 
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>]
> On Behalf Of Roland Harriston
> Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2013 8:34 AM
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye
>
> Whew!
>
> A really bad idea!
>
> There are so many less dangerous materials that have been used to etch 
> PCB's
> that have proven to be relatively safe and very effective over the last
> 50 or 60
> years.
>
> The task is not that complex or hazardous.....why make it so?
>
> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
> ***********************
>
> On 3/30/2013 7:31 AM, Rick Sparber wrote:
> >
> > Has anyone used lye to etch aluminum through photo resist?
> >
> > As a test, I put a strip of aluminum in lye plus water and after 15
> > minutes the strip was half of its original thickness. So there is no
> > doubt that lye can etch VERY deep. But the chemical reaction generated
> > a lot of heat and the tape I had on there quickly floated off. Next
> > time I will use more water.
> >
> > I did have the lye and aluminum outside while I watched from inside.
> > Nasty fumes!
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Rick
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and 
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-03-30 by Rick Sparber

Gloves, eye protection, all done outside. However, I will read up on it more before doing a second try. 

Thanks,

Rick
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Mar 30, 2013, at 11:32 AM, Roland Harriston <rolohar@...> wrote:

> Does not matter what the metal is.........sodium hydroxide is nasty stuff.
> Were you wearing eye protection??
> 
> A lot of stores won't carry it anymore in my neck of the woods
> because it is so dangerous in the hands of inexperienced and 
> ill-equipped users.
> 
> If you have the proper equipment and setup for using sodium hydroxide,
> then it is okay.
> 
> But messing around with the stuff as you are doing is not only dangerous,
> but also not very smart.
> 
> Get a hold of a few good books that tell how to do what you want to do,
> and that explain what equipment/techniques you should have.
> 
> I bet a quick "Google" will get you the intelligence you need to
> do the job.
> 
> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
> **********************
> 
> On 3/30/2013 8:44 AM, Rick Sparber wrote:
>> 
>> Roland,
>> 
>> In this case, I am etching aluminum, not copper. I know that ferric 
>> chloride
>> does not do much to aluminum.
>> 
>> I chose lye because it was easy to find at my Ace Hardware store and was
>> very low cost. Yet I see that the stuff is very active at full strength. I
>> assume that if I mix in more water, it would not be as aggressive nor
>> generate as much heat.
>> 
>> If I didn't use lye, what other commonly found chemical could etch 
>> aluminum.
>> I tried drain cleaner but it was far too slow and stopped etching after a
>> few minutes. I was left with a very slight roughness in the exposed area.
>> 
>> Rick
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
>> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> 
>> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
>> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>]
>> On Behalf Of Roland Harriston
>> Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2013 8:34 AM
>> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye
>> 
>> Whew!
>> 
>> A really bad idea!
>> 
>> There are so many less dangerous materials that have been used to etch 
>> PCB's
>> that have proven to be relatively safe and very effective over the last
>> 50 or 60
>> years.
>> 
>> The task is not that complex or hazardous.....why make it so?
>> 
>> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
>> ***********************
>> 
>> On 3/30/2013 7:31 AM, Rick Sparber wrote:
>>> 
>>> Has anyone used lye to etch aluminum through photo resist?
>>> 
>>> As a test, I put a strip of aluminum in lye plus water and after 15
>>> minutes the strip was half of its original thickness. So there is no
>>> doubt that lye can etch VERY deep. But the chemical reaction generated
>>> a lot of heat and the tape I had on there quickly floated off. Next
>>> time I will use more water.
>>> 
>>> I did have the lye and aluminum outside while I watched from inside.
>>> Nasty fumes!
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Rick
>>> 
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> 
>> ------------------------------------
>> 
>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and 
>> Photos:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-03-30 by Rick Sparber

Roland,

OK, I have read up on it. Back to electro etching with salt water! Damn, lye
is nasty stuff.

Thanks,

Rick
Show quoted textHide quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Rick Sparber
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2013 11:40 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

Gloves, eye protection, all done outside. However, I will read up on it more
before doing a second try. 

Thanks,

Rick

On Mar 30, 2013, at 11:32 AM, Roland Harriston <rolohar@...> wrote:

> Does not matter what the metal is.........sodium hydroxide is nasty stuff.
> Were you wearing eye protection??
> 
> A lot of stores won't carry it anymore in my neck of the woods because 
> it is so dangerous in the hands of inexperienced and ill-equipped 
> users.
> 
> If you have the proper equipment and setup for using sodium hydroxide, 
> then it is okay.
> 
> But messing around with the stuff as you are doing is not only 
> dangerous, but also not very smart.
> 
> Get a hold of a few good books that tell how to do what you want to 
> do, and that explain what equipment/techniques you should have.
> 
> I bet a quick "Google" will get you the intelligence you need to do 
> the job.
> 
> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
> **********************
> 
> On 3/30/2013 8:44 AM, Rick Sparber wrote:
>> 
>> Roland,
>> 
>> In this case, I am etching aluminum, not copper. I know that ferric 
>> chloride does not do much to aluminum.
>> 
>> I chose lye because it was easy to find at my Ace Hardware store and 
>> was very low cost. Yet I see that the stuff is very active at full 
>> strength. I assume that if I mix in more water, it would not be as 
>> aggressive nor generate as much heat.
>> 
>> If I didn't use lye, what other commonly found chemical could etch 
>> aluminum.
>> I tried drain cleaner but it was far too slow and stopped etching 
>> after a few minutes. I was left with a very slight roughness in the
exposed area.
>> 
>> Rick
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
>> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>]
>> On Behalf Of Roland Harriston
>> Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2013 8:34 AM
>> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
>> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye
>> 
>> Whew!
>> 
>> A really bad idea!
>> 
>> There are so many less dangerous materials that have been used to 
>> etch PCB's that have proven to be relatively safe and very effective 
>> over the last
>> 50 or 60
>> years.
>> 
>> The task is not that complex or hazardous.....why make it so?
>> 
>> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
>> ***********************
>> 
>> On 3/30/2013 7:31 AM, Rick Sparber wrote:
>>> 
>>> Has anyone used lye to etch aluminum through photo resist?
>>> 
>>> As a test, I put a strip of aluminum in lye plus water and after 15 
>>> minutes the strip was half of its original thickness. So there is no 
>>> doubt that lye can etch VERY deep. But the chemical reaction 
>>> generated a lot of heat and the tape I had on there quickly floated 
>>> off. Next time I will use more water.
>>> 
>>> I did have the lye and aluminum outside while I watched from inside.
>>> Nasty fumes!
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Rick
>>> 
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> 
>> ------------------------------------
>> 
>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
>> Photos:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 


------------------------------------

Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-03-30 by Kirk McLoren

potassium hydroxide works too. dilution certainly lowers temperature rise, the reaction rate is temperature dependent so it runs away. The hotter it gets the faster it works and the more heat it makes. I used to put a pyrex dish on a hot plate set on low to accelerate ferric chloride. Sodium hydroxide is easy to make. Just electrolyze salt in cold water. Do not use hot or your product will be sodium chlorate, an oxidizer.
-K




 
 When you're one step ahead of the crowd you're a genius.
When you're two steps ahead, you're a crackpot.








________________________________
Show quoted textHide quoted text
 From: Roland Harriston <rolohar@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2013 11:32 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye
 

  
Does not matter what the metal is.........sodium hydroxide is nasty stuff.
Were you wearing eye protection??

A lot of stores won't carry it anymore in my neck of the woods
because it is so dangerous in the hands of inexperienced and 
ill-equipped users.

If you have the proper equipment and setup for using sodium hydroxide,
then it is okay.

But messing around with the stuff as you are doing is not only dangerous,
but also not very smart.

Get a hold of a few good books that tell how to do what you want to do,
and that explain what equipment/techniques you should have.

I bet a quick "Google" will get you the intelligence you need to
do the job.

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
**********************

On 3/30/2013 8:44 AM, Rick Sparber wrote:
>
> Roland,
>
> In this case, I am etching aluminum, not copper. I know that ferric 
> chloride
> does not do much to aluminum.
>
> I chose lye because it was easy to find at my Ace Hardware store and was
> very low cost. Yet I see that the stuff is very active at full strength. I
> assume that if I mix in more water, it would not be as aggressive nor
> generate as much heat.
>
> If I didn't use lye, what other commonly found chemical could etch 
> aluminum.
> I tried drain cleaner but it was far too slow and stopped etching after a
> few minutes. I was left with a very slight roughness in the exposed area.
>
> Rick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> 
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>]
> On Behalf Of Roland Harriston
> Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2013 8:34 AM
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye
>
> Whew!
>
> A really bad idea!
>
> There are so many less dangerous materials that have been used to etch 
> PCB's
> that have proven to be relatively safe and very effective over the last
> 50 or 60
> years.
>
> The task is not that complex or hazardous.....why make it so?
>
> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
> ***********************
>
> On 3/30/2013 7:31 AM, Rick Sparber wrote:
> >
> > Has anyone used lye to etch aluminum through photo resist?
> >
> > As a test, I put a strip of aluminum in lye plus water and after 15
> > minutes the strip was half of its original thickness. So there is no
> > doubt that lye can etch VERY deep. But the chemical reaction generated
> > a lot of heat and the tape I had on there quickly floated off. Next
> > time I will use more water.
> >
> > I did have the lye and aluminum outside while I watched from inside.
> > Nasty fumes!
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Rick
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and 
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-03-30 by Todd F. Carney / K7TFC

I used sodium hydroxide (lye) all the time in an industrial setting to make
aluminum lettering plates. The process called for the solution to be heated
to 120 degreeF. I don't remember the dilution rate. Fumes? Just do as you
did -- outside.
 On Mar 30, 2013 8:44 AM, "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...m> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Roland,
>
> In this case, I am etching aluminum, not copper. I know that ferric
> chloride
> does not do much to aluminum.
>
> I chose lye because it was easy to find at my Ace Hardware store and was
> very low cost. Yet I see that the stuff is very active at full strength. I
> assume that if I mix in more water, it would not be as aggressive nor
> generate as much heat.
>
> If I didn't use lye, what other commonly found chemical could etch
> aluminum.
> I tried drain cleaner but it was far too slow and stopped etching after a
> few minutes. I was left with a very slight roughness in the exposed area.
>
> Rick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Roland Harriston
> Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2013 8:34 AM
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye
>
> Whew!
>
> A really bad idea!
>
> There are so many less dangerous materials that have been used to etch
> PCB's
> that have proven to be relatively safe and very effective over the last
> 50 or 60
> years.
>
> The task is not that complex or hazardous.....why make it so?
>
> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
> ***********************
>
> On 3/30/2013 7:31 AM, Rick Sparber wrote:
> >
> > Has anyone used lye to etch aluminum through photo resist?
> >
> > As a test, I put a strip of aluminum in lye plus water and after 15
> > minutes the strip was half of its original thickness. So there is no
> > doubt that lye can etch VERY deep. But the chemical reaction generated
> > a lot of heat and the tape I had on there quickly floated off. Next
> > time I will use more water.
> >
> > I did have the lye and aluminum outside while I watched from inside.
> > Nasty fumes!
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Rick
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-03-30 by Rick Sparber

Todd,

Oh, it self-heated to way over 120F. I suspect you use a much more dilute
mixture.

Rick 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Todd F. Carney / K7TFC
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2013 1:09 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

I used sodium hydroxide (lye) all the time in an industrial setting to make
aluminum lettering plates. The process called for the solution to be heated
to 120 degreeF. I don't remember the dilution rate. Fumes? Just do as you
did -- outside.
 On Mar 30, 2013 8:44 AM, "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Roland,
>
> In this case, I am etching aluminum, not copper. I know that ferric 
> chloride does not do much to aluminum.
>
> I chose lye because it was easy to find at my Ace Hardware store and 
> was very low cost. Yet I see that the stuff is very active at full 
> strength. I assume that if I mix in more water, it would not be as 
> aggressive nor generate as much heat.
>
> If I didn't use lye, what other commonly found chemical could etch 
> aluminum.
> I tried drain cleaner but it was far too slow and stopped etching 
> after a few minutes. I was left with a very slight roughness in the
exposed area.
>
> Rick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Roland Harriston
> Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2013 8:34 AM
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye
>
> Whew!
>
> A really bad idea!
>
> There are so many less dangerous materials that have been used to etch 
> PCB's that have proven to be relatively safe and very effective over 
> the last
> 50 or 60
> years.
>
> The task is not that complex or hazardous.....why make it so?
>
> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
> ***********************
>
> On 3/30/2013 7:31 AM, Rick Sparber wrote:
> >
> > Has anyone used lye to etch aluminum through photo resist?
> >
> > As a test, I put a strip of aluminum in lye plus water and after 15 
> > minutes the strip was half of its original thickness. So there is no 
> > doubt that lye can etch VERY deep. But the chemical reaction 
> > generated a lot of heat and the tape I had on there quickly floated 
> > off. Next time I will use more water.
> >
> > I did have the lye and aluminum outside while I watched from inside.
> > Nasty fumes!
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Rick
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-03-30 by Roland Harriston

Rick Sparber:

Lye crystals have been withdrawn from many markets because they were 
being used to make illegal drugs and you can no longer purchase lye 
crystals at your local grocery store or hardware store.

I used to buy it at my local Safeway market, but it is gone from there, 
and all of the
other supermarkets in my area (Oro Valley, Arizona)

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
***********************

On 3/30/2013 1:18 PM, Rick Sparber wrote:
>
> Todd,
>
> Oh, it self-heated to way over 120F. I suspect you use a much more dilute
> mixture.
>
> Rick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> 
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>]
> On Behalf Of Todd F. Carney / K7TFC
> Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2013 1:09 PM
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye
>
> I used sodium hydroxide (lye) all the time in an industrial setting to 
> make
> aluminum lettering plates. The process called for the solution to be 
> heated
> to 120 degreeF. I don't remember the dilution rate. Fumes? Just do as you
> did -- outside.
> On Mar 30, 2013 8:44 AM, "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@... 
> <mailto:rgsparber%40aol.com>> wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > Roland,
> >
> > In this case, I am etching aluminum, not copper. I know that ferric
> > chloride does not do much to aluminum.
> >
> > I chose lye because it was easy to find at my Ace Hardware store and
> > was very low cost. Yet I see that the stuff is very active at full
> > strength. I assume that if I mix in more water, it would not be as
> > aggressive nor generate as much heat.
> >
> > If I didn't use lye, what other commonly found chemical could etch
> > aluminum.
> > I tried drain cleaner but it was far too slow and stopped etching
> > after a few minutes. I was left with a very slight roughness in the
> exposed area.
> >
> > Rick
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>]
> > On Behalf Of Roland Harriston
> > Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2013 8:34 AM
> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye
> >
> > Whew!
> >
> > A really bad idea!
> >
> > There are so many less dangerous materials that have been used to etch
> > PCB's that have proven to be relatively safe and very effective over
> > the last
> > 50 or 60
> > years.
> >
> > The task is not that complex or hazardous.....why make it so?
> >
> > Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
> > ***********************
> >
> > On 3/30/2013 7:31 AM, Rick Sparber wrote:
> > >
> > > Has anyone used lye to etch aluminum through photo resist?
> > >
> > > As a test, I put a strip of aluminum in lye plus water and after 15
> > > minutes the strip was half of its original thickness. So there is no
> > > doubt that lye can etch VERY deep. But the chemical reaction
> > > generated a lot of heat and the tape I had on there quickly floated
> > > off. Next time I will use more water.
> > >
> > > I did have the lye and aluminum outside while I watched from inside.
> > > Nasty fumes!
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Rick
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and 
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-03-30 by Rick Sparber

I found it at the Ahwatukee Ace Hardware.

Rick
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Mar 30, 2013, at 1:52 PM, Roland Harriston <rolohar@...> wrote:

> Rick Sparber:
> 
> Lye crystals have been withdrawn from many markets because they were 
> being used to make illegal drugs and you can no longer purchase lye 
> crystals at your local grocery store or hardware store.
> 
> I used to buy it at my local Safeway market, but it is gone from there, 
> and all of the
> other supermarkets in my area (Oro Valley, Arizona)
> 
> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
> ***********************
> 
> On 3/30/2013 1:18 PM, Rick Sparber wrote:
>> 
>> Todd,
>> 
>> Oh, it self-heated to way over 120F. I suspect you use a much more dilute
>> mixture.
>> 
>> Rick
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
>> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> 
>> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
>> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>]
>> On Behalf Of Todd F. Carney / K7TFC
>> Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2013 1:09 PM
>> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
>> Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye
>> 
>> I used sodium hydroxide (lye) all the time in an industrial setting to 
>> make
>> aluminum lettering plates. The process called for the solution to be 
>> heated
>> to 120 degreeF. I don't remember the dilution rate. Fumes? Just do as you
>> did -- outside.
>> On Mar 30, 2013 8:44 AM, "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@... 
>> <mailto:rgsparber%40aol.com>> wrote:
>> 
>>> **
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Roland,
>>> 
>>> In this case, I am etching aluminum, not copper. I know that ferric
>>> chloride does not do much to aluminum.
>>> 
>>> I chose lye because it was easy to find at my Ace Hardware store and
>>> was very low cost. Yet I see that the stuff is very active at full
>>> strength. I assume that if I mix in more water, it would not be as
>>> aggressive nor generate as much heat.
>>> 
>>> If I didn't use lye, what other commonly found chemical could etch
>>> aluminum.
>>> I tried drain cleaner but it was far too slow and stopped etching
>>> after a few minutes. I was left with a very slight roughness in the
>> exposed area.
>>> 
>>> Rick
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
>>> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>]
>>> On Behalf Of Roland Harriston
>>> Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2013 8:34 AM
>>> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
>>> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye
>>> 
>>> Whew!
>>> 
>>> A really bad idea!
>>> 
>>> There are so many less dangerous materials that have been used to etch
>>> PCB's that have proven to be relatively safe and very effective over
>>> the last
>>> 50 or 60
>>> years.
>>> 
>>> The task is not that complex or hazardous.....why make it so?
>>> 
>>> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
>>> ***********************
>>> 
>>> On 3/30/2013 7:31 AM, Rick Sparber wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Has anyone used lye to etch aluminum through photo resist?
>>>> 
>>>> As a test, I put a strip of aluminum in lye plus water and after 15
>>>> minutes the strip was half of its original thickness. So there is no
>>>> doubt that lye can etch VERY deep. But the chemical reaction
>>>> generated a lot of heat and the tape I had on there quickly floated
>>>> off. Next time I will use more water.
>>>> 
>>>> I did have the lye and aluminum outside while I watched from inside.
>>>> Nasty fumes!
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> 
>>>> Rick
>>>> 
>>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>> 
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>> 
>>> ------------------------------------
>>> 
>>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
>> Photos:
>>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> 
>> ------------------------------------
>> 
>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and 
>> Photos:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-03-30 by Stefan Trethan

It's either the drug makers or the terrorists that spoil our fun.
What's the next common household chemical they will take away for our own
good, sodium chloride perhaps?

Anyway, I don't see how sodium hydroxide is more dangerous than some of the
other chemicals we work with, like hydrochloric acid.

ST


On Sat, Mar 30, 2013 at 9:52 PM, Roland Harriston <rolohar@...>wrote:

> Rick Sparber:
>
> Lye crystals have been withdrawn from many markets because they were
> being used to make illegal drugs and you can no longer purchase lye
> crystals at your local grocery store or hardware store.
>
> I used to buy it at my local Safeway market, but it is gone from there,
> and all of the
> other supermarkets in my area (Oro Valley, Arizona)
>
> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-03-30 by Dylan Smith

You can buy it on ebay (at least on ebay UK).

Then again, I've seen hydrofluoric acid on ebay. What could possibly go 
wrong?

El 30/03/13 21:04, Stefan Trethan escribi\ufffd:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> It's either the drug makers or the terrorists that spoil our fun.
> What's the next common household chemical they will take away for our own
> good, sodium chloride perhaps?
>
> Anyway, I don't see how sodium hydroxide is more dangerous than some of the
> other chemicals we work with, like hydrochloric acid.
>
> ST
>
>
> On Sat, Mar 30, 2013 at 9:52 PM, Roland Harriston <rolohar@...>wrote:
>
>> Rick Sparber:
>>
>> Lye crystals have been withdrawn from many markets because they were
>> being used to make illegal drugs and you can no longer purchase lye
>> crystals at your local grocery store or hardware store.
>>
>> I used to buy it at my local Safeway market, but it is gone from there,
>> and all of the
>> other supermarkets in my area (Oro Valley, Arizona)
>>
>> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
>>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-03-30 by Roland Harriston

Rick:

The absence of lye in local stores in my area might be because of local 
bans.
In my area, the sale of aerosol spray paints is restricted. But the 
stuff is used
to make illegal drugs.

I have not checked the situation in Tucson, which is the next big town 
near my location.
The anti spray paint ban is an attempt (very effective) in eliminating 
graffiti.

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
**********************

On 3/30/2013 1:54 PM, Rick Sparber wrote:
>
> I found it at the Ahwatukee Ace Hardware.
>
> Rick
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-03-30 by James Sleeman

Rick Sparber wrote:
>  
>
>
> I did have the lye and aluminum outside while I watched from inside. Nasty
> fumes!
>

Note that the Aluminium + Sodium Hydroxide reaction is how one produces 
large quantities of hydrogen without time consuming electrolysis.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Radio-Controlled-Hydrogen-Blimp/step9/Aluminum-and-Lye/

Re: lye

2013-03-30 by designer_craig

Rick,
Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) solution will etch aluminum very well.  The trick is not to make the enchant too strong as the reaction is very exothermic and will run away. Use a very dilute solution and give it some time to work.  The reaction evolves hydrogen gas, the bubbles tend to lift the edge of your resist which is another reason to use a dilute solution.  Most paints and waxes with resist the NaOH but not most photo resists. I would think toner would work ok.  Brush the surface now an then to keep the hydrogen bubbles from blocking the etching.   NaOH is nasty stuff, but no worse that other strong bases or acids, protect your eyes – your corneas doen't do well with lye eye drops.  Strong hot HaOH and Al will emit a mist of hot caustic mist not good on your lungs and use gloves.

Red Devil too their lye off the market years ago,  I  buy RamRod drain cleaner at Smart and Final, it's a fairly strong NaOH solution.  I dilute it to clean aluminum parts coming off the mill prior to anodizing.

NaOH is not on the DEA list I or II  precursor chemical list yet so it should be available,  though there is not much call for it any more – not many folks make their own soap.  It's available on line – I got some food grade stuff for baking pretzels.   Acetone, sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid are on list II so watch how much you buy at one time.

I saw a nice process for activating plated through holes the other day that uses copper hypophosphite.  Looks to be a simple reliable way to activate the holes prior to copper plating.   The process starts with Calcium Hypophosphite and Copper Sulfate.  Turns out all Hypophosphite salts are List I chemicals, which makes it out of reach for home practitioners.

Craig


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> Has anyone used lye to etch aluminum through photo resist? 
> 
>  
> 
> As a test, I put a strip of aluminum in lye plus water and after 15 minutes
> the strip was half of its original thickness. So there is no doubt that lye
> can etch VERY deep. But the chemical reaction generated a lot of heat and
> the tape I had on there quickly floated off. Next time I will use more
> water.
> 
>  
> 
> I did have the lye and aluminum outside while I watched from inside. Nasty
> fumes!
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
>  
> 
> Rick
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: lye

2013-03-30 by Todd F. Carney / K7TFC

Lye ("caustic soda," sodium hydroxide) is available in many forms on eBay,
in the United States and elsewhere. Dozens of listings. I don't believe the
bit concerning official restrictions on lye because of its use in meth
making. It's used in that process, alright, but take a look at this list of
meth-making materials published by a drug task force in Washington state:
http://www.srdtf.org/pageview.aspx?id=25477.

There's more than a dozen common household chemicals on the list, including
rock salt, peroxide, Ammonium Sulfate fertilizer, starter fluid, etc. No
restrictions on those anywhere. The only ingredient not in thousands of
other common uses is pseudoephedrine decongestant. It's the critical
chemical, and it *is* being restricted. In Oregon, it's a
behind-the-counter product now, and a store will sell it only in
one-cold-at-a-time quantities. This restriction has made a huge dent in
local meth production.

If access to pseudoephedrine is controlled, there's no need to control
anything else to curtail meth-house production. I suppose a store or a
chain of stores might have company policies on lye, but I really don't
think the "associates" on the floor are good sources to consult for those
policies. Frankly, I think what we have here is an urban myth.


73,

Todd
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
K7TFC / Medford, Oregon, USA / CN82ni / UTC-8
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
QRP (CW & SSB) / EmComm / SOTA / Homebrew / Design


On Sat, Mar 30, 2013 at 3:13 PM, designer_craig <cs6061@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Rick,
> Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) solution will etch aluminum very well. The trick is
> not to make the enchant too strong as the reaction is very exothermic and
> will run away. Use a very dilute solution and give it some time to work.
> The reaction evolves hydrogen gas, the bubbles tend to lift the edge of
> your resist which is another reason to use a dilute solution. Most paints
> and waxes with resist the NaOH but not most photo resists. I would think
> toner would work ok. Brush the surface now an then to keep the hydrogen
> bubbles from blocking the etching. NaOH is nasty stuff, but no worse that
> other strong bases or acids, protect your eyes � your corneas doen't do
> well with lye eye drops. Strong hot HaOH and Al will emit a mist of hot
> caustic mist not good on your lungs and use gloves.
>
> Red Devil too their lye off the market years ago, I buy RamRod drain
> cleaner at Smart and Final, it's a fairly strong NaOH solution. I dilute it
> to clean aluminum parts coming off the mill prior to anodizing.
>
> NaOH is not on the DEA list I or II precursor chemical list yet so it
> should be available, though there is not much call for it any more � not
> many folks make their own soap. It's available on line � I got some food
> grade stuff for baking pretzels. Acetone, sulfuric acid and hydrochloric
> acid are on list II so watch how much you buy at one time.
>
> I saw a nice process for activating plated through holes the other day
> that uses copper hypophosphite. Looks to be a simple reliable way to
> activate the holes prior to copper plating. The process starts with Calcium
> Hypophosphite and Copper Sulfate. Turns out all Hypophosphite salts are
> List I chemicals, which makes it out of reach for home practitioners.
>
> Craig
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Has anyone used lye to etch aluminum through photo resist?
> >
> >
> >
> > As a test, I put a strip of aluminum in lye plus water and after 15
> minutes
> > the strip was half of its original thickness. So there is no doubt that
> lye
> > can etch VERY deep. But the chemical reaction generated a lot of heat and
> > the tape I had on there quickly floated off. Next time I will use more
> > water.
> >
> >
> >
> > I did have the lye and aluminum outside while I watched from inside.
> Nasty
> > fumes!
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
>
> >
> >
> >
> > Rick
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-03-31 by toddroberts2001@...

In a message dated 3/30/2013 5:59:18 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
bitsyboffin@... writes:

Note that the Aluminium + Sodium Hydroxide reaction is how one produces  
large quantities of hydrogen without time consuming electrolysis.
 
 
For what it's worth, I tried to use Sodium Hydroxide solution in  a glass
bottle and added some pieces of aluminum to make hydrogen gas to fill  small
balloons with. 
 
The sodium Hydroxide reacts very aggressively with aluminum and it was  easy
for the reaction to heat up too much and turn into foam and overflow from  
the bottle 
into the balloon. Also the reaction produced a lot of steam and would tend  
to fill up the
balloon with water vapor also. If you tried to dilute the Sodium  Hydroxide 
 too much
it would slow down the reaction to a crawl, so it was a fine line to find  
just the right
dilution of Sodium Hydroxide that would dissolve the aluminum without  
heating up 
too much. Also to do it right you would need some kind of drying tube to  
remove all
the water vapor from the hydrogen gas.
 
In any case the Sodium Hydroxide is not predictable stuff to work  with! 
That stuff gets
 hot easily when it reacts with aluminum! I stay away from it. Outdoor  use 
only!
 
Best Regards, Todd WD4NGG

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-03-31 by Donald H Locker

Spray enamel worked for covering the seco
nd side of a two-sided pcb that needed protection. Stripped with lacquer thinner, IIRC.

Donald.
--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\ ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-04-01 by chuck richards

You can dilute the lye/water solution with more water
and very precisely control the rate at which it dissolves
aluminum.

I used the lye/aluminum reaction a lot as a boy to make
hydrogen to fill balloons.

The hydrogen gas comes off very hot and must be ran through
a coil of tubing submersed in icewater.

But, if diluted enough, you can control it to react
at any speed or heat that you choose.

Chuck



>
>
>---- Original Message ----
>From: rolohar@...
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye
>Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2013 14:30:13 -0700
>
>>Rick:
>>
>>The absence of lye in local stores in my area might be because of
>local 
>>bans.
>>In my area, the sale of aerosol spray paints is restricted. But the 
>>stuff is used
>>to make illegal drugs.
>>
>>I have not checked the situation in Tucson, which is the next big
>town 
>>near my location.
>>The anti spray paint ban is an attempt (very effective) in
>eliminating 
>>graffiti.
>>
>>Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
>>**********************
>>
>>On 3/30/2013 1:54 PM, Rick Sparber wrote:
>>>
>>> I found it at the Ahwatukee Ace Hardware.
>>>
>>> Rick
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>



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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-04-01 by chuck richards

I work with lye all the time making Edison
brown wax recording blank cylinders for antique
cylinder phonographs.

As long as you don't splash it up into your eyes
it is fine.  Wear safety glasses.

If you get it on your skin, get it off quickly.
You will feel a slippery feeling between your fingers.
Wash that off using lots of tap water, because if you
forget and leave it on there, it turns your skin
into a pasty goo that comes off!

I keep a large bucket of fresh cold water handy when
I am working with lye.  If I get any on my hands I just
plunge them quickly into the bucket and wash the lye
solution off.  That is much quicker than taking the
time to run to the sink.

Lye is as safe or dangerous as anything else really.

Check my website to see what I use lye to make:
http://www.richardslaboratories.com

Chuck


>
>
>---- Original Message ----
>From: dyls@...
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye
>Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2013 21:26:53 +0000
>
>>You can buy it on ebay (at least on ebay UK).
>>
>>Then again, I've seen hydrofluoric acid on ebay. What could possibly
>go 
>>wrong?
>>
>>El 30/03/13 21:04, Stefan Trethan escribió:
>>> It's either the drug makers or the terrorists that spoil our fun.
>>> What's the next common household chemical they will take away for
>our own
>>> good, sodium chloride perhaps?
>>>
>>> Anyway, I don't see how sodium hydroxide is more dangerous than
>some of the
>>> other chemicals we work with, like hydrochloric acid.
>>>
>>> ST
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, Mar 30, 2013 at 9:52 PM, Roland Harriston
><rolohar@...>wrote:
>>>
>>>> Rick Sparber:
>>>>
>>>> Lye crystals have been withdrawn from many markets because they
>were
>>>> being used to make illegal drugs and you can no longer purchase
>lye
>>>> crystals at your local grocery store or hardware store.
>>>>
>>>> I used to buy it at my local Safeway market, but it is gone from
>there,
>>>> and all of the
>>>> other supermarkets in my area (Oro Valley, Arizona)
>>>>
>>>> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
>>>>
>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------
>>>
>>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files,
>and Photos:
>>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>



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RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-04-01 by Boman33

I enjoyed watching your video and learning more about the process.  I was
surprised at how good the recordings sounded.

 

How are you using the lye in the process of making the cylinders?

Bertho
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: chuck Richards   Sent: Monday, April 01, 2013 14:09



I work with lye all the time making Edison
brown wax recording blank cylinders for antique
cylinder phonographs.

As long as you don't splash it up into your eyes
it is fine. Wear safety glasses.

If you get it on your skin, get it off quickly.
You will feel a slippery feeling between your fingers.
Wash that off using lots of tap water, because if you
forget and leave it on there, it turns your skin
into a pasty goo that comes off!

I keep a large bucket of fresh cold water handy when
I am working with lye. If I get any on my hands I just
plunge them quickly into the bucket and wash the lye
solution off. That is much quicker than taking the
time to run to the sink.

Lye is as safe or dangerous as anything else really.

Check my website to see what I use lye to make:
http://www.richardslaboratories.com

Chuck






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] lye

2013-04-01 by Todd F. Carney / K7TFC

On Mon, Apr 1, 2013 at 11:09 AM, chuck richards <chuckrr@...>
 wrote:

> If you get it on your skin, get it off quickly. You will feel a slippery
> feeling between your fingers. Wash that off using lots of tap water,
> because if you forget and leave it on there, it turns your skin into a
> pasty goo that comes off!


I like to have a cheap pump bottle of white vinegar (any vinegar will do,
actually) handy to spray on my hands or anything that gets the hydroxide
solution on it. It neutralizes the alkalinity and converts it into an
easily-washed-off salt. In the darkroom, I used to just stick my hands in
the stop bath (acetic acid about the same dilution as vinegar) to get that
slimy alkaline feeling of the high-pH developer--some of which used sodium
hydroxide. That's why it's called stop bath. Photo-developing agents work
only in an alkaline environment, and the stop bath puts an immediate to
that.

Damn! Now I have the urge to do some (real, as in film) photography again!

73,

Todd
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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