Homebrew_PCBs

good day,

i'm a newbie on photoresist method. i've read homebrew's archives/forum
about how to stick dry film to pcb, all methods involving laminator. is
there some way for me to stick dry film without laminator?. i've tried
without it, just by hand and pressed it with warm iron. the result is
like this one. my exposure time is about 2 - 3 minutes.

http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/3923/joharbaru2013032300273.jpg

so many wrinkles here and there. and i have no confidence to develop it
too long, sodium carbonate will dissolve the traces i'm afraid.
if laminator is a must, what kind of laminator should i buy?what kind of
spec? (roller thickness)

i need many enlightenment here..

thanks in advance

regards
hari

On Mon, Mar 25, 2013 at 10:33 AM, Hari Hendaryanto <hari.h@...> wrote:

>
> i'm a newbie on photoresist method. i've read homebrew's archives/forum
> about how to stick dry film to pcb,

Have you tried different temperature settings and times for your iron?
For example, a lower temperature? A higher temperature but for a
shorter time? What do the instructions for the resist say?

Also, the copper of the PCB must be really really clean (this goes for
any method involving bare copper). You can clean it with a scouring
pad (not steel wool, the green 3M ones work well), then use IPA
(isopropyl alcohol) or denatured alcohol and paper to scrub the board
until you're no longer getting any crap on the paper. That will help
the resist stick to the copper.

This is probably a dumb idea, but when applying sticky films, often a
layer of water is sprayed onto the surface first. The water forms a
very thin separator between the surface and the film. Air bubbles and
the water can then be worked out with a squeegee, to the point where
there's no air and no water. You might be able to try this, followed
by something like a heating period in an oven. Experiment!

Good luck,

Mitch.

On 25/03/13 15:33, Hari Hendaryanto wrote:

>
> good day,
>
> i'm a newbie on photoresist method. i've read homebrew's archives/forum
> about how to stick dry film to pcb, all methods involving laminator. is
> there some way for me to stick dry film without laminator?. i've tried
>

In my (limited) experience, get a laminator. The results from the
non-laminator methods have not been good for me, and they are tricky.

A laminator is the best way, and I find that making a simple carrier out
of a thin piece of card, and a couple of "end stops" made out of
popsicle sticks (sanded down so they are a little thinner than the PCB)
makes it much easier and more reliable to get a "perfect" lamination.

Pretty much any laminator will do. The film needs only a moderate heat.

If you want to try no-laminator methods anyway, here are two

1. apply film manually, careful to avoid bubbles and wrinkles, sit on
top of an iron to heat the entire board (I guess, film side away from
the iron)
2. the hot water method, briefly, pour hot water over PCB, remove
bottom layer from film, lie the top of the film against a damp squeegee
board, re-wet the pcb with hot water, squeegee the film on, allow to
cool, search the archives there is a link to it (you'll have to accept
the warnings from Chrome about it being a possibly malware loaded site,
it's just a harmless PDF).


Remember, it doesn't actually require a lot of heat, well less than
100'C, I think it's about 50'C to 70'C.

>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

hi thanks for quick reply,

On 3/25/2013 10:07 AM, Mitch Davis wrote:
>
> On Mon, Mar 25, 2013 at 10:33 AM, Hari Hendaryanto <hari.h@...
> <mailto:hari.h%40csmcom.com>> wrote:
> >
> > i'm a newbie on photoresist method. i've read homebrew's archives/forum
> > about how to stick dry film to pcb,
>
> Have you tried different temperature settings and times for your iron?
> For example, a lower temperature? A higher temperature but for a
> shorter time? What do the instructions for the resist say?
>
datasheet says it should be around 70 - 150 degree celcius, that if
using laminator. i used moderate warm iron, though (still able touching
iron w/o hurting my hand).
>
>
> Also, the copper of the PCB must be really really clean (this goes for
> any method involving bare copper). You can clean it with a scouring
> pad (not steel wool, the green 3M ones work well), then use IPA
> (isopropyl alcohol) or denatured alcohol and paper to scrub the board
> until you're no longer getting any crap on the paper. That will help
> the resist stick to the copper.
>
i used scotch brite, wash the pcb using water then, i've never tried
alcohol.
>
>
> This is probably a dumb idea, but when applying sticky films, often a
> layer of water is sprayed onto the surface first. The water forms a
> very thin separator between the surface and the film. Air bubbles and
> the water can then be worked out with a squeegee, to the point where
> there's no air and no water. You might be able to try this, followed
> by something like a heating period in an oven. Experiment!
>
i tried laminate dry film onto pcb under water. i guess somehow i'm not
ironing properly in order to stick dry film evently to pcb surface or
some part of water still stuck between polymer and pcb :D.

thanks
>
>
> Good luck,
>
> Mitch.
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

hi james thanks for quick response

On 3/25/2013 10:07 AM, James wrote:
>
> On 25/03/13 15:33, Hari Hendaryanto wrote:
> >
> > good day,
> >
> > i'm a newbie on photoresist method. i've read homebrew's archives/forum
> > about how to stick dry film to pcb, all methods involving laminator. is
> > there some way for me to stick dry film without laminator?. i've tried
> >
>
> In my (limited) experience, get a laminator. The results from the
> non-laminator methods have not been good for me, and they are tricky.
>
> A laminator is the best way, and I find that making a simple carrier out
> of a thin piece of card, and a couple of "end stops" made out of
> popsicle sticks (sanded down so they are a little thinner than the PCB)
> makes it much easier and more reliable to get a "perfect" lamination.
>
> Pretty much any laminator will do. The film needs only a moderate heat.
>
this is a good news for me.
>
>
> If you want to try no-laminator methods anyway, here are two
>
> 1. apply film manually, careful to avoid bubbles and wrinkles, sit on
> top of an iron to heat the entire board (I guess, film side away from
> the iron)
> 2. the hot water method, briefly, pour hot water over PCB, remove
> bottom layer from film, lie the top of the film against a damp squeegee
> board, re-wet the pcb with hot water, squeegee the film on, allow to
> cool, search the archives there is a link to it (you'll have to accept
> the warnings from Chrome about it being a possibly malware loaded site,
> it's just a harmless PDF).
>
> Remember, it doesn't actually require a lot of heat, well less than
> 100'C, I think it's about 50'C to 70'C.
>
> >
>
i found that the hardest part was avoiding any bubbles and wrinkles. i'm
gonna take a look on PDF instructions.

thanks


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Are you trying to lay the film on all at once? That may be why you are getting bubbles.

Start at one edge, holding the other end of the film up and working your way across the board, pushing the film down.

The general idea can be seen here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tiBUE-tjwlc (When I tried it this way, I used my fingertip, never tried a card though, but it might work well.)

Once you get it all on flat, give it a quick heat with the iron on low. You might want to try leaving the iron off until you get to this point so it doesn't get too hot.

Then leave it to cure for 10 minutes or so before you expose it.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Hari Hendaryanto <hari.h@...> wrote:
>
> good day,
>
> i'm a newbie on photoresist method. i've read homebrew's archives/forum
> about how to stick dry film to pcb, all methods involving laminator. is
> there some way for me to stick dry film without laminator?. i've tried
> without it, just by hand and pressed it with warm iron. the result is
> like this one. my exposure time is about 2 - 3 minutes.
>
> http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/3923/joharbaru2013032300273.jpg
>
> so many wrinkles here and there. and i have no confidence to develop it
> too long, sodium carbonate will dissolve the traces i'm afraid.
> if laminator is a must, what kind of laminator should i buy?what kind of
> spec? (roller thickness)
>
> i need many enlightenment here..
>
> thanks in advance
>
> regards
> hari
>

i'm sorry for late reply, i got my mails end up in spam filter, i've
just noticed and released it. sounds like another solution for me, and
thanks for that :), i was trying james sugestion and have an adequate
results. i'm getting better with this thing :). i'll take a look on the
video.

anyway, i saw some dry film not rolled/curled back (stay flat). i was
using dry film that rolled back after cut. that was a problem too,
especially when separating thin plastic part from polymer (i used tape
on both corner side). but i think i just have to make more practice..

thanks for all your supports guys :)

regards
hari

On 3/25/2013 4:58 PM, tda7000 wrote:
>
> Are you trying to lay the film on all at once? That may be why you are
> getting bubbles.
>
> Start at one edge, holding the other end of the film up and working
> your way across the board, pushing the film down.
>
> The general idea can be seen here:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tiBUE-tjwlc (When I tried it this way,
> I used my fingertip, never tried a card though, but it might work well.)
>
> Once you get it all on flat, give it a quick heat with the iron on
> low. You might want to try leaving the iron off until you get to this
> point so it doesn't get too hot.
>
> Then leave it to cure for 10 minutes or so before you expose it.
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, Hari Hendaryanto
> <hari.h@...> wrote:
> >
> > good day,
> >
> > i'm a newbie on photoresist method. i've read homebrew's archives/forum
> > about how to stick dry film to pcb, all methods involving laminator. is
> > there some way for me to stick dry film without laminator?. i've tried
> > without it, just by hand and pressed it with warm iron. the result is
> > like this one. my exposure time is about 2 - 3 minutes.
> >
> > http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/3923/joharbaru2013032300273.jpg
> >
> > so many wrinkles here and there. and i have no confidence to develop it
> > too long, sodium carbonate will dissolve the traces i'm afraid.
> > if laminator is a must, what kind of laminator should i buy?what
> kind of
> > spec? (roller thickness)
> >
> > i need many enlightenment here..
> >
> > thanks in advance
> >
> > regards
> > hari
> >
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

hey guys,

i finally can get my clumsy old hand doing phoresist thing :)) ( from
laminate until etching). not perfect, but it's the best pcb i've ever
had, need a little touch up, but i think that's because the opacity of
negative film i used.

http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/7764/tebet2013040800294.jpg

thanks for all your times and helps guys

regards

hari

On 4/1/2013 6:45 PM, Hari Hendaryanto wrote:
>
> i'm sorry for late reply, i got my mails end up in spam filter, i've
> just noticed and released it. sounds like another solution for me, and
> thanks for that :), i was trying james sugestion and have an adequate
> results. i'm getting better with this thing :). i'll take a look on the
> video.
>
> anyway, i saw some dry film not rolled/curled back (stay flat). i was
> using dry film that rolled back after cut. that was a problem too,
> especially when separating thin plastic part from polymer (i used tape
> on both corner side). but i think i just have to make more practice..
>
> thanks for all your supports guys :)
>
> regards
> hari
>
> On 3/25/2013 4:58 PM, tda7000 wrote:
> >
> > Are you trying to lay the film on all at once? That may be why you are
> > getting bubbles.
> >
> > Start at one edge, holding the other end of the film up and working
> > your way across the board, pushing the film down.
> >
> > The general idea can be seen here:
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tiBUE-tjwlc (When I tried it this way,
> > I used my fingertip, never tried a card though, but it might work well.)
> >
> > Once you get it all on flat, give it a quick heat with the iron on
> > low. You might want to try leaving the iron off until you get to this
> > point so it doesn't get too hot.
> >
> > Then leave it to cure for 10 minutes or so before you expose it.
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, Hari Hendaryanto
> > <hari.h@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > good day,
> > >
> > > i'm a newbie on photoresist method. i've read homebrew's
> archives/forum
> > > about how to stick dry film to pcb, all methods involving
> laminator. is
> > > there some way for me to stick dry film without laminator?. i've tried
> > > without it, just by hand and pressed it with warm iron. the result is
> > > like this one. my exposure time is about 2 - 3 minutes.
> > >
> > > http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/3923/joharbaru2013032300273.jpg
> > >
> > > so many wrinkles here and there. and i have no confidence to
> develop it
> > > too long, sodium carbonate will dissolve the traces i'm afraid.
> > > if laminator is a must, what kind of laminator should i buy?what
> > kind of
> > > spec? (roller thickness)
> > >
> > > i need many enlightenment here..
> > >
> > > thanks in advance
> > >
> > > regards
> > > hari
> > >
> >
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Great progress!

Always leave a small piece of aluminum foil in the excess margin if possible
to get a reference of guaranteed no exposure. I used to have a step wedge
with the foil permanent attached at one end and then included the step
wedge in the exposures.

Bertho



From: Hari Hendaryanto Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 22:27



hey guys,
i finally can get my clumsy old hand doing phoresist thing :)) ( from
laminate until etching). not perfect, but it's the best pcb i've ever
had, need a little touch up, but i think that's because the opacity of
negative film i used.

http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/7764/tebet2013040800294.jpg

thanks for all your times and helps guys

regards

hari

On 4/1/2013 6:45 PM, Hari Hendaryanto wrote:
>
> i'm sorry for late reply, i got my mails end up in spam filter, i've
> just noticed and released it. sounds like another solution for me, and
> thanks for that :), i was trying james sugestion and have an adequate
> results. i'm getting better with this thing :). i'll take a look on the
> video.
>
> anyway, i saw some dry film not rolled/curled back (stay flat). i was
> using dry film that rolled back after cut. that was a problem too,
> especially when separating thin plastic part from polymer (i used tape
> on both corner side). but i think i just have to make more practice..
>
> thanks for all your supports guys :)
>
> regards
> hari





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

If your printout is not dark enough, you can try darkening with a black whiteboard marker. (more info in the group posts) I've used that trick with good results on printouts from my own printer.

I tried it on printouts from the local copy shop but it did not work at all. I think their toner may be different in some way than mine. It certainly feels quite different if I run my fingers over the printout.

When using their copier I print 2 copies and double up. Works great (apart from the annoyance of doing the alignment) 6 Minute exposure time with standard UV LEDs, Then I leave it in the dark to cure for 10 minutes before developing.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote:
>
> Great progress!
>
> Always leave a small piece of aluminum foil in the excess margin if possible
> to get a reference of guaranteed no exposure. I used to have a step wedge
> with the foil permanent attached at one end and then included the step
> wedge in the exposures.
>
> Bertho
>
>
>
> From: Hari Hendaryanto Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 22:27
>
>
>
> hey guys,
> i finally can get my clumsy old hand doing phoresist thing :)) ( from
> laminate until etching). not perfect, but it's the best pcb i've ever
> had, need a little touch up, but i think that's because the opacity of
> negative film i used.
>
> http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/7764/tebet2013040800294.jpg
>
> thanks for all your times and helps guys
>
> regards
>
> hari
>
> On 4/1/2013 6:45 PM, Hari Hendaryanto wrote:
> >
> > i'm sorry for late reply, i got my mails end up in spam filter, i've
> > just noticed and released it. sounds like another solution for me, and
> > thanks for that :), i was trying james sugestion and have an adequate
> > results. i'm getting better with this thing :). i'll take a look on the
> > video.
> >
> > anyway, i saw some dry film not rolled/curled back (stay flat). i was
> > using dry film that rolled back after cut. that was a problem too,
> > especially when separating thin plastic part from polymer (i used tape
> > on both corner side). but i think i just have to make more practice..
> >
> > thanks for all your supports guys :)
> >
> > regards
> > hari
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

i'm using old hp laser printer, i think it ran out of toner. i've found
printing company that will accept printing transparencies in small
quantities, one or two pieces with excellent density/opacity at
reasonable price. i think i'll go that way. but thanks for your
suggestion :)

regards
hari

On 4/8/2013 6:24 PM, tda7000 wrote:
>
> If your printout is not dark enough, you can try darkening with a
> black whiteboard marker. (more info in the group posts) I've used that
> trick with good results on printouts from my own printer.
>
> I tried it on printouts from the local copy shop but it did not work
> at all. I think their toner may be different in some way than mine. It
> certainly feels quite different if I run my fingers over the printout.
>
> When using their copier I print 2 copies and double up. Works great
> (apart from the annoyance of doing the alignment) 6 Minute exposure
> time with standard UV LEDs, Then I leave it in the dark to cure for 10
> minutes before developing.
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote:
> >
> > Great progress!
> >
> > Always leave a small piece of aluminum foil in the excess margin if
> possible
> > to get a reference of guaranteed no exposure. I used to have a step
> wedge
> > with the foil permanent attached at one end and then included the step
> > wedge in the exposures.
> >
> > Bertho
> >
> >
> >
> > From: Hari Hendaryanto Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 22:27
> >
> >
> >
> > hey guys,
> > i finally can get my clumsy old hand doing phoresist thing :)) ( from
> > laminate until etching). not perfect, but it's the best pcb i've ever
> > had, need a little touch up, but i think that's because the opacity of
> > negative film i used.
> >
> > http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/7764/tebet2013040800294.jpg
> >
> > thanks for all your times and helps guys
> >
> > regards
> >
> > hari
> >
> > On 4/1/2013 6:45 PM, Hari Hendaryanto wrote:
> > >
> > > i'm sorry for late reply, i got my mails end up in spam filter, i've
> > > just noticed and released it. sounds like another solution for me, and
> > > thanks for that :), i was trying james sugestion and have an adequate
> > > results. i'm getting better with this thing :). i'll take a look
> on the
> > > video.
> > >
> > > anyway, i saw some dry film not rolled/curled back (stay flat). i was
> > > using dry film that rolled back after cut. that was a problem too,
> > > especially when separating thin plastic part from polymer (i used tape
> > > on both corner side). but i think i just have to make more practice..
> > >
> > > thanks for all your supports guys :)
> > >
> > > regards
> > > hari
> >
>
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hari,

Could you share with us the name of the company that makes your
transparencies?

73,

Todd
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
K7TFC / Medford, Oregon, USA / CN82ni / UTC-8
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
QRP (CW & SSB) / EmComm / SOTA / Homebrew / Design

On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 3:09 AM, Hari Hendaryanto <hari.h@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> i'm using old hp laser printer, i think it ran out of toner. i've found
> printing company that will accept printing transparencies in small
> quantities, one or two pieces with excellent density/opacity at
> reasonable price. i think i'll go that way. but thanks for your
> suggestion :)
>
> regards
> hari
>
> On 4/8/2013 6:24 PM, tda7000 wrote:
> >
> > If your printout is not dark enough, you can try darkening with a
> > black whiteboard marker. (more info in the group posts) I've used that
> > trick with good results on printouts from my own printer.
> >
> > I tried it on printouts from the local copy shop but it did not work
> > at all. I think their toner may be different in some way than mine. It
> > certainly feels quite different if I run my fingers over the printout.
> >
> > When using their copier I print 2 copies and double up. Works great
> > (apart from the annoyance of doing the alignment) 6 Minute exposure
> > time with standard UV LEDs, Then I leave it in the dark to cure for 10
> > minutes before developing.
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Great progress!
> > >
> > > Always leave a small piece of aluminum foil in the excess margin if
> > possible
> > > to get a reference of guaranteed no exposure. I used to have a step
> > wedge
> > > with the foil permanent attached at one end and then included the step
> > > wedge in the exposures.
> > >
> > > Bertho
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > From: Hari Hendaryanto Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 22:27
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > hey guys,
> > > i finally can get my clumsy old hand doing phoresist thing :)) ( from
> > > laminate until etching). not perfect, but it's the best pcb i've ever
> > > had, need a little touch up, but i think that's because the opacity of
> > > negative film i used.
> > >
> > > http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/7764/tebet2013040800294.jpg
> > >
> > > thanks for all your times and helps guys
> > >
> > > regards
> > >
> > > hari
> > >
> > > On 4/1/2013 6:45 PM, Hari Hendaryanto wrote:
> > > >
> > > > i'm sorry for late reply, i got my mails end up in spam filter, i've
> > > > just noticed and released it. sounds like another solution for me,
> and
> > > > thanks for that :), i was trying james sugestion and have an adequate
> > > > results. i'm getting better with this thing :). i'll take a look
> > on the
> > > > video.
> > > >
> > > > anyway, i saw some dry film not rolled/curled back (stay flat). i was
> > > > using dry film that rolled back after cut. that was a problem too,
> > > > especially when separating thin plastic part from polymer (i used
> tape
> > > > on both corner side). but i think i just have to make more practice..
> > > >
> > > > thanks for all your supports guys :)
> > > >
> > > > regards
> > > > hari
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

hi todd,

actually, it's a local company ( i live in indonesia).
http://www.tokoprapatan.com/v1/, their location near my office. it costs
me about $1/sheet. the quality is very satisfying me.

regards
hari.

On 4/11/2013 1:37 AM, Todd F. Carney / K7TFC wrote:
> Hari,
>
> Could you share with us the name of the company that makes your
> transparencies?
>
> 73,
>
> Todd
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> K7TFC / Medford, Oregon, USA / CN82ni / UTC-8
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> QRP (CW & SSB) / EmComm / SOTA / Homebrew / Design
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 3:09 AM, Hari Hendaryanto <hari.h@...> wrote:
>
>> **
>>
>>
>> i'm using old hp laser printer, i think it ran out of toner. i've found
>> printing company that will accept printing transparencies in small
>> quantities, one or two pieces with excellent density/opacity at
>> reasonable price. i think i'll go that way. but thanks for your
>> suggestion :)
>>
>> regards
>> hari
>>
>> On 4/8/2013 6:24 PM, tda7000 wrote:
>>> If your printout is not dark enough, you can try darkening with a
>>> black whiteboard marker. (more info in the group posts) I've used that
>>> trick with good results on printouts from my own printer.
>>>
>>> I tried it on printouts from the local copy shop but it did not work
>>> at all. I think their toner may be different in some way than mine. It
>>> certainly feels quite different if I run my fingers over the printout.
>>>
>>> When using their copier I print 2 copies and double up. Works great
>>> (apart from the annoyance of doing the alignment) 6 Minute exposure
>>> time with standard UV LEDs, Then I leave it in the dark to cure for 10
>>> minutes before developing.
>>>
>>> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>>> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote:
>>>> Great progress!
>>>>
>>>> Always leave a small piece of aluminum foil in the excess margin if
>>> possible
>>>> to get a reference of guaranteed no exposure. I used to have a step
>>> wedge
>>>> with the foil permanent attached at one end and then included the step
>>>> wedge in the exposures.
>>>>
>>>> Bertho
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> From: Hari Hendaryanto Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 22:27
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> hey guys,
>>>> i finally can get my clumsy old hand doing phoresist thing :)) ( from
>>>> laminate until etching). not perfect, but it's the best pcb i've ever
>>>> had, need a little touch up, but i think that's because the opacity of
>>>> negative film i used.
>>>>
>>>> http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/7764/tebet2013040800294.jpg
>>>>
>>>> thanks for all your times and helps guys
>>>>
>>>> regards
>>>>
>>>> hari
>>>>
>>>> On 4/1/2013 6:45 PM, Hari Hendaryanto wrote:
>>>>> i'm sorry for late reply, i got my mails end up in spam filter, i've
>>>>> just noticed and released it. sounds like another solution for me,
>> and
>>>>> thanks for that :), i was trying james sugestion and have an adequate
>>>>> results. i'm getting better with this thing :). i'll take a look
>>> on the
>>>>> video.
>>>>>
>>>>> anyway, i saw some dry film not rolled/curled back (stay flat). i was
>>>>> using dry film that rolled back after cut. that was a problem too,
>>>>> especially when separating thin plastic part from polymer (i used
>> tape
>>>>> on both corner side). but i think i just have to make more practice..
>>>>>
>>>>> thanks for all your supports guys :)
>>>>>
>>>>> regards
>>>>> hari
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>