Yahoo Groups archive
Thread
2012-12-18 by Richard
a neighbor gave one of these, Roberts Quik-Cut Vinyl Tile Cutter can be found at Home Depot Model # 30002 Internet # 100038849 Store SKU # 729019 $50.00 this is the best way to cut FR4 i have found, straight smooth edges, near no effort to cut 1/16 board, board does not skew either, has a cast aluminum frame, the blade is pinned at both ends giving increased leverage and keeps the blade from wandering and skewing the cut. RD
2012-12-18 by Mark Schoonover
I've also have been looking for a better way to cut PCB material and I think I've found it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RyJHKz8LFU Not only does it say "circuit board" on the outside box, it can also be used to cut just about anything needed to make project boxes, etc. 73 - Mark Schoonover - KA6WKE http://www.ka6wke.net On Mon, Dec 17, 2012 at 9:37 PM, Richard <rdheiliger@...> wrote: > Roberts Quik-Cut Vinyl Tile Cutter [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2012-12-18 by Eldon Brown
RD, Very good, I am going to recommend this to some of my PCB building friends. Here is the HomeDepot URL: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100038849/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=729019&storeId=10051#.UNA3TKrwilg Regards, Eldon Brown 73 - Eldon - WA0UWH - CN88xc - http://WA0UWH.blogspot.com/ On Mon, Dec 17, 2012 at 9:37 PM, Richard <rdheiliger@...> wrote: > 729019 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2012-12-18 by casy_ch@tbwil.ch
What a good idea! Thank you. Here it is available as well. Vy 73 de Jean-Claude, HB3YDH Am 18.12.2012 10:34, schrieb Eldon Brown: > > RD, > > Very good, > > I am going to recommend this to some of my PCB building friends. > > Here is the HomeDepot URL: > http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100038849/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=729019&storeId=10051#.UNA3TKrwilg > > Regards, > Eldon Brown > > 73 - Eldon - WA0UWH - CN88xc - http://WA0UWH.blogspot.com/ > > On Mon, Dec 17, 2012 at 9:37 PM, Richard <rdheiliger@... > <mailto:rdheiliger%40msn.com>> wrote: > > > 729019 > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2012-12-18 by Stefan Trethan
I've seen a similar cutter for wood laminate flooring but it didn't have the second lever, just a single blade. Also the blade went down into a slot, cutting a thin strip out of the wood, a bit like a nibbler just much longer. The mechanics of this vinyl tile cutter seem much more suitable, too bad vinyl tile is not very popular here... ST
On Tue, Dec 18, 2012 at 6:37 AM, Richard <rdheiliger@...> wrote: > a neighbor gave one of these, > > Roberts Quik-Cut Vinyl Tile Cutter > > can be found at Home Depot > Model # 30002 > Internet # 100038849 > Store SKU # 729019 > > > $50.00 > > this is the best way to cut FR4 i have found, straight smooth edges, near no effort to cut 1/16 board, board does not skew either, has a cast aluminum frame, the blade is pinned at both ends giving increased leverage and keeps the blade from wandering and skewing the cut. > > RD > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > >
2012-12-18 by Steve
Richard, Thanks for that recommendation. How does this cutter do if you want small pieces of 1/16in FR4? Seems that I often need a small board perhaps on the order on one inch square. Thanks. Steve K8JQ
On 12/18/2012 12:37 AM, Richard wrote: > a neighbor gave one of these, > > Roberts Quik-Cut Vinyl Tile Cutter > > can be found at Home Depot > Model # 30002 > Internet # 100038849 > Store SKU # 729019 > > > $50.00 > > this is the best way to cut FR4 i have found, straight smooth edges, near no effort to cut 1/16 board, board does not skew either, has a cast aluminum frame, the blade is pinned at both ends giving increased leverage and keeps the blade from wandering and skewing the cut. > > RD > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > > > >
2012-12-18 by Mitch Davis
On Tue, Dec 18, 2012 at 9:52 PM, Steve <steve65@...> wrote: > > Thanks for that recommendation. How does this cutter do if you want > small pieces of 1/16in FR4? Seems that I often need a small board > perhaps on the order on one inch square. On the rare occasion I need to (I'm a PCB supplier) I usually use tinsnips. If I had to do it more often I'd get my hands on a hand (ie, not air, not electric) nibbler. Based on how nibblers I've used in the past have gone, I think it would do a fantastic job on FR4. Mitch. http://tinyurl.com/hvpcbfaq
2012-12-18 by RDHeiliger
I make my board a bit oversize, don’t have to align toner print as accurately, then trim after etch and drill, have been able to trim off as little as 1/8 inch. RD [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2012-12-19 by Rick Sparber
Funny you should mention this. I had a few small circuit boards to cut up just now and tried my sheet metal snips. It is a rather massive hand tool, not the ones with the thin jaws. It cut through the FR4 easily and with good control. When the ships are dull, it is easy to re-sharpen it. Rick
-----Original Message----- From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark Schoonover Sent: Monday, December 17, 2012 10:54 PM To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] PCB cutting I've also have been looking for a better way to cut PCB material and I think I've found it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RyJHKz8LFU Not only does it say "circuit board" on the outside box, it can also be used to cut just about anything needed to make project boxes, etc. 73 - Mark Schoonover - KA6WKE http://www.ka6wke.net On Mon, Dec 17, 2012 at 9:37 PM, Richard <rdheiliger@...> wrote: > Roberts Quik-Cut Vinyl Tile Cutter [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
2012-12-19 by casy_ch@tbwil.ch
Mark You mean boxes to fit your reserve pcboards ???? hi3x A very good idea this tool. I must have a look if it is available on this side of the pond. Vy 73 de Jean-Claude, HB3YDH Am 18.12.2012 06:53, schrieb Mark Schoonover: > > I've also have been looking for a better way to cut PCB material and I > think I've found it: > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RyJHKz8LFU > > Not only does it say "circuit board" on the outside box, it can also be > used to cut just about anything needed to make project boxes, etc. > > 73 - Mark Schoonover - KA6WKE > http://www.ka6wke.net > > On Mon, Dec 17, 2012 at 9:37 PM, Richard <rdheiliger@... > <mailto:rdheiliger%40msn.com>> wrote: > > > Roberts Quik-Cut Vinyl Tile Cutter > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2012-12-20 by Jeff Heiss
How about the Proxxon circular saw for cutting copper clad ($125)? Jeff _____
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sparber Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2012 11:21 AM To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] PCB cutting Funny you should mention this. I had a few small circuit boards to cut up just now and tried my sheet metal snips. It is a rather massive hand tool, not the ones with the thin jaws. It cut through the FR4 easily and with good control. When the ships are dull, it is easy to re-sharpen it. Rick -----Original Message----- From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Mark Schoonover Sent: Monday, December 17, 2012 10:54 PM To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] PCB cutting I've also have been looking for a better way to cut PCB material and I think I've found it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RyJHKz8LFU Not only does it say "circuit board" on the outside box, it can also be used to cut just about anything needed to make project boxes, etc. 73 - Mark Schoonover - KA6WKE http://www.ka6wke.net On Mon, Dec 17, 2012 at 9:37 PM, Richard <rdheiliger@... <mailto:rdheiliger%40msn.com> > wrote: > Roberts Quik-Cut Vinyl Tile Cutter [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2012-12-20 by Rick Sparber
I'm sure it is a nice machine. But if my sheet metal snips do the trick, why buy something else? Rick
-----Original Message----- From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Heiss Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2012 6:21 PM To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] PCB cutting How about the Proxxon circular saw for cutting copper clad ($125)? Jeff _____ From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sparber Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2012 11:21 AM To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] PCB cutting Funny you should mention this. I had a few small circuit boards to cut up just now and tried my sheet metal snips. It is a rather massive hand tool, not the ones with the thin jaws. It cut through the FR4 easily and with good control. When the ships are dull, it is easy to re-sharpen it. Rick -----Original Message----- From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Mark Schoonover Sent: Monday, December 17, 2012 10:54 PM To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] PCB cutting I've also have been looking for a better way to cut PCB material and I think I've found it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RyJHKz8LFU Not only does it say "circuit board" on the outside box, it can also be used to cut just about anything needed to make project boxes, etc. 73 - Mark Schoonover - KA6WKE http://www.ka6wke.net On Mon, Dec 17, 2012 at 9:37 PM, Richard <rdheiliger@... <mailto:rdheiliger%40msn.com> > wrote: > Roberts Quik-Cut Vinyl Tile Cutter [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
2012-12-20 by A.Tahir DENGIZ
Proxxon circular saw is not powerfull enough. It has been tried one of my HAM friend. It is only good for balsa wood for models. A.Tahir DENGIZ, TA2T
From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 3:20 AM Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] PCB cutting How about the Proxxon circular saw for cutting copper clad ($125)? Jeff _____ From: mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sparber Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2012 11:21 AM To: mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] PCB cutting Funny you should mention this. I had a few small circuit boards to cut up just now and tried my sheet metal snips. It is a rather massive hand tool, not the ones with the thin jaws. It cut through the FR4 easily and with good control. When the ships are dull, it is easy to re-sharpen it. Rick -----Original Message----- From: mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Mark Schoonover Sent: Monday, December 17, 2012 10:54 PM To: mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] PCB cutting I've also have been looking for a better way to cut PCB material and I think I've found it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RyJHKz8LFU Not only does it say "circuit board" on the outside box, it can also be used to cut just about anything needed to make project boxes, etc. 73 - Mark Schoonover - KA6WKE http://www.ka6wke.net/ On Mon, Dec 17, 2012 at 9:37 PM, Richard <mailto:rdheiliger%40msn.com <mailto:rdheiliger%40msn.com> > wrote: > Roberts Quik-Cut Vinyl Tile Cutter [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2012-12-20 by Mark Schoonover
I use metal snips for boards no bigger than 2" because anything longer and the board starts to curve up or down depending on which side I need to use. I would like to use PCB material for project enclosures too, just can't justify the costs for even small enclosures. On Wednesday, December 19, 2012, Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote: > > > I'm sure it is a nice machine. But if my sheet metal snips do the trick, why > buy something else? > > Rick > > -----Original Message----- > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] > On Behalf Of Jeff Heiss > Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2012 6:21 PM > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] PCB cutting > > How about the Proxxon circular saw for cutting copper clad ($125)? > > Jeff > > _____ > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] > On Behalf Of Rick Sparber > Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2012 11:21 AM > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] PCB cutting > > Funny you should mention this. I had a few small circuit boards to cut up > just now and tried my sheet metal snips. It is a rather massive hand tool, > not the ones with the thin jaws. It cut through the FR4 easily and with good > control. When the ships are dull, it is easy to re-sharpen it. > > Rick > > -----Original Message----- > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto: Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> > [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Mark Schoonover > Sent: Monday, December 17, 2012 10:54 PM > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] PCB cutting > > I've also have been looking for a better way to cut PCB material and I think > I've found it: > > Craftsman Trak-Cut track saw w/ miter base > > Not only does it say "circuit board" on the outside box, it can also be used > to cut just about anything needed to make project boxes, etc. > > 73 - Mark Schoonover - KA6WKE > http://www.ka6wke.net > > On Mon, Dec 17, 2012 at 9:37 PM, Richard <rdheiliger@... > <mailto:rdheiliger%40msn.com> > wrote: > >> Roberts Quik-Cut Vinyl Tile Cutter > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > ------------------------------------ > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > ------------------------------------ > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > -- 73 - Mark Schoonover - KA6WKE http://www.ka6wke.net [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2012-12-20 by Duane C. Johnson
I use a paper guillotine.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paper_cutter
The first picture.
I think they are about $50us
This works much better than tin snips.
Duane
--
Home of the $35 Solar Tracker Receiver
http://www.redrok.com/led3xassm.htm [*]
Powered by \ \ \ //|
Thermonuclear Solar Energy from the Sun / |
Energy (the SUN) \ \ \ / / |
Red Rock Energy \ \ / / |
Duane C. Johnson Designer \ \ / \ / |
1825 Florence St Heliostat,Control,& Mounts |
White Bear Lake, Minnesota === \ / \ |
USA 55110-3364 === \ |
(651)426-4766 use Courier New Font \ |
redrok@... (my email: address) \ |
http://www.redrok.com (Web site) ===2012-12-20 by Rick Sparber
Mark, I can see how that curving could crack vias and thin traces. Before I made my finger brake ( http://rick.sparber.org/smfb.pdf ), I used aluminum "coil". It comes pre-painted on both sides with different colors (your choice). The stuff bends with light finger pressure and cuts easily with scissors. Yet when folded up into a small box, is plenty strong. Back in Illinois, it was used to wrap wood on the outside of people's houses. VERY resistant to weather. I bought a 50' x 1' wide roll about 25 years ago and still have some left. Rick
-----Original Message----- From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark Schoonover Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2012 9:41 PM To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] PCB cutting I use metal snips for boards no bigger than 2" because anything longer and the board starts to curve up or down depending on which side I need to use. I would like to use PCB material for project enclosures too, just can't justify the costs for even small enclosures.
2012-12-20 by Rick Sparber
Duane, I have one of these paper cutters but it did not work well for me. The small board squirmed as I started to cut. I can see it working with larger boards. So maybe for boards less than 2" use the sheers and greater than 2" use the cutter. Rick
-----Original Message----- From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Duane C. Johnson Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 5:57 AM To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] PCB cutting I use a paper guillotine. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paper_cutter The first picture. I think they are about $50us This works much better than tin snips. Duane
2012-12-20 by Duane C. Johnson
Hi Rick;
Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote:
> I have one of these paper cutters but it did not work well
> for me. The small board squirmed as I started to cut.
I added "Rubberized Shelf Liner" to the bed. I glued
this stuff down with rubber cement. Much better than the
hard slippery wood surface on the paper guillotine.
BTW, there are some paper cutters with anti skid surfaces.
> I can see it working with larger boards.
> So maybe for boards less than 2" use the sheers and
> greater than 2" use the cutter.
I agree. My tin snips are the old style that look like large
scissors, not the modern type with force multiplication.
The blades are a bit more than 4" long.
Longer boards than the blade length tend to warp the board
when it has to curl up over the handle.
The modern snips tend to warp even short boards though.
> Rick
Duane
--
Home of the $35 Solar Tracker Receiver
http://www.redrok.com/led3xassm.htm [*]
Powered by \ \ \ //|
Thermonuclear Solar Energy from the Sun / |
Energy (the SUN) \ \ \ / / |
Red Rock Energy \ \ / / |
Duane C. Johnson Designer \ \ / \ / |
1825 Florence St Heliostat,Control,& Mounts |
White Bear Lake, Minnesota === \ / \ |
USA 55110-3364 === \ |
(651)426-4766 use Courier New Font \ |
redrok@... (my email: address) \ |
http://www.redrok.com (Web site) ===2012-12-20 by joe M
check this out: http://www.prc68.com/I/12InShear.shtml cuts pcb like butter. On Thu, Dec 20, 2012 at 9:55 AM, Duane C. Johnson <redrok@...> wrote: > ** > > > Hi Rick; > > > Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote: > > > I have one of these paper cutters but it did not work well > > for me. The small board squirmed as I started to cut. > > I added "Rubberized Shelf Liner" to the bed. I glued > this stuff down with rubber cement. Much better than the > hard slippery wood surface on the paper guillotine. > > BTW, there are some paper cutters with anti skid surfaces. > > > > I can see it working with larger boards. > > So maybe for boards less than 2" use the sheers and > > greater than 2" use the cutter. > > I agree. My tin snips are the old style that look like large > scissors, not the modern type with force multiplication. > The blades are a bit more than 4" long. > > Longer boards than the blade length tend to warp the board > when it has to curl up over the handle. > > The modern snips tend to warp even short boards though. > > > Rick > > > Duane > > -- > Home of the $35 Solar Tracker Receiver > http://www.redrok.com/led3xassm.htm [*] > Powered by \ \ \ //| > Thermonuclear Solar Energy from the Sun / | > Energy (the SUN) \ \ \ / / | > Red Rock Energy \ \ / / | > Duane C. Johnson Designer \ \ / \ / | > 1825 Florence St Heliostat,Control,& Mounts | > White Bear Lake, Minnesota === \ / \ | > USA 55110-3364 === \ | > (651)426-4766 use Courier New Font \ | > redrok@... (my email: address) \ | > http://www.redrok.com (Web site) === > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2012-12-20 by Rick Sparber
I see it at Enco for $129: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=577&PMCTLG=00 Nice tool. I'll have to see if I can make one. Thanks, Rick
-----Original Message----- From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of joe M Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 9:19 AM To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] PCB cutting check this out: http://www.prc68.com/I/12InShear.shtml cuts pcb like butter. On Thu, Dec 20, 2012 at 9:55 AM, Duane C. Johnson <redrok@...> wrote: > ** > > > Hi Rick; > > > Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote: > > > I have one of these paper cutters but it did not work well for me. > > The small board squirmed as I started to cut. > > I added "Rubberized Shelf Liner" to the bed. I glued this stuff down > with rubber cement. Much better than the hard slippery wood surface on > the paper guillotine. > > BTW, there are some paper cutters with anti skid surfaces. > > > > I can see it working with larger boards. > > So maybe for boards less than 2" use the sheers and greater than 2" > > use the cutter. > > I agree. My tin snips are the old style that look like large scissors, > not the modern type with force multiplication. > The blades are a bit more than 4" long. > > Longer boards than the blade length tend to warp the board when it has > to curl up over the handle. > > The modern snips tend to warp even short boards though. > > > Rick > > > Duane > > -- > Home of the $35 Solar Tracker Receiver > http://www.redrok.com/led3xassm.htm [*] Powered by \ \ \ //| > Thermonuclear Solar Energy from the Sun / | Energy (the SUN) \ \ \ / / > | Red Rock Energy \ \ / / | Duane C. Johnson Designer \ \ / \ / | > 1825 Florence St Heliostat,Control,& Mounts | White Bear Lake, > Minnesota === \ / \ | USA 55110-3364 === \ | > (651)426-4766 use Courier New Font \ | redrok@... (my email: > address) \ | http://www.redrok.com (Web site) === > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
2012-12-20 by Duane C. Johnson
Hi Rick;
Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote:
> I see it at Enco for $129:
Check the part@ directly:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMKD?SIITEM001=130-5700&SIQTY001=1&SICOUNT=1
On sale for $89us.
> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=577&PMCTLG=00
> Nice tool. I'll have to see if I can make one.
> Thanks,
> Rick
Duane
--
Home of the $35 Solar Tracker Receiver
http://www.redrok.com/led3xassm.htm [*]
Powered by \ \ \ //|
Thermonuclear Solar Energy from the Sun / |
Energy (the SUN) \ \ \ / / |
Red Rock Energy \ \ / / |
Duane C. Johnson Designer \ \ / \ / |
1825 Florence St Heliostat,Control,& Mounts |
White Bear Lake, Minnesota === \ / \ |
USA 55110-3364 === \ |
(651)426-4766 use Courier New Font \ |
redrok@... (my email: address) \ |
http://www.redrok.com (Web site) ===2012-12-20 by joe M
and, no dust flying around. Watch out with those rotary cutters. FR4 dust does not seem to be good for the lungs. A pulmonologist said that they see a lot of silicosis patients (ex-sandblasting workers, etc). Not sure how that translates to FR4 though. On Thu, Dec 20, 2012 at 11:33 AM, Duane C. Johnson <redrok@...>wrote: > ** > > > Hi Rick; > > Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote: > > > I see it at Enco for $129: > > Check the part@ directly: > http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMKD?SIITEM001=130-5700&SIQTY001=1&SICOUNT=1 > On sale for $89us. > > > > http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=577&PMCTLG=00 > > > Nice tool. I'll have to see if I can make one. > > > Thanks, > > Rick > > Duane > > -- > Home of the $35 Solar Tracker Receiver > http://www.redrok.com/led3xassm.htm [*] > Powered by \ \ \ //| > Thermonuclear Solar Energy from the Sun / | > Energy (the SUN) \ \ \ / / | > Red Rock Energy \ \ / / | > Duane C. Johnson Designer \ \ / \ / | > 1825 Florence St Heliostat,Control,& Mounts | > White Bear Lake, Minnesota === \ / \ | > USA 55110-3364 === \ | > (651)426-4766 use Courier New Font \ | > redrok@... (my email: address) \ | > http://www.redrok.com (Web site) === > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2012-12-21 by Mars Bonfire
I have the equivalent bench shear from Gizzly Tool...but in the 8" size (Grizzly didn't seem to carry the 12" anymore). Looks almost identical to the enco with a somewhat different design for the hold down. If it is the same quality as the Grizzly, it is a great tool. I use it to shear everything from 1/8 plate down through 0.01" brass shim stock. The blades are hard and easily removable for resharpening which should be a snap. It should cut PCB like butter though I hate to dull the blade cutting glass fiber. For cutting PCBs are other plastics I use a Freud Diablo non-ferrous cutting 10" blade on a table saw (carbide, 80 tooth as I recall) it has a very interesting tooth profile and a low, if not negative "hook". Cuts plastic and aluminum plate like butter...virtually no burrs. Steve --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Duane C. Johnson" <redrok@...> wrote:
> > Hi Rick; > > Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote: > > > I see it at Enco for $129: > > Check the part@ directly: > http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMKD?SIITEM001=130-5700&SIQTY001=1&SICOUNT=1 > On sale for $89us. > > > http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=577&PMCTLG=00 > > > Nice tool. I'll have to see if I can make one. > > > Thanks, > > Rick > > Duane > > -- > Home of the $35 Solar Tracker Receiver > http://www.redrok.com/led3xassm.htm [*] > Powered by \ \ \ //| > Thermonuclear Solar Energy from the Sun / | > Energy (the SUN) \ \ \ / / | > Red Rock Energy \ \ / / | > Duane C. Johnson Designer \ \ / \ / | > 1825 Florence St Heliostat,Control,& Mounts | > White Bear Lake, Minnesota === \ / \ | > USA 55110-3364 === \ | > (651)426-4766 use Courier New Font \ | > redrok@... (my email: address) \ | > http://www.redrok.com (Web site) === >
2012-12-21 by nordhs
The best things I have found for PCB cutting involve a shearing cut, rather than stock removal, like a blade. I was using my bandsaw and got great cuts without stressing the board but it dulled the blade very fast. You could try a scroll saw for very small boards since the blades are cheap. The aviation snips can curl the board. PCB cutters are a shearing blade with lots of board support around it. I should try my throatless metal shear... If you set up a vacuum and wear an air filter, abrasives do a great job trimming and rounding corners. Don't breathe the dust though. It is very controlled board removal and 1x42 belts are cheap. Steve
2012-12-22 by Corey Minion
Why would fiberglass dull blades any faster than yellow or red brass or any other metal for that matter? If you want to cut boards on a tablesaw, I would recommend a plastics and phenolics ready triple chip grind neg rake blade such as this one < http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5968-industrial-quality-plastic-cutting-saw-blades.aspx?variantids=10261,0&
> On 12/21/2012 12:24 PM, Mars Bonfire wrote: > I have the equivalent bench shear from Gizzly Tool...but in the 8" size (Grizzly didn't seem to carry the 12" anymore). Looks almost identical to the enco with a somewhat different design for the hold down. > > If it is the same quality as the Grizzly, it is a great tool. I use it to shear everything from 1/8 plate down through 0.01" brass > shim stock. The blades are hard and easily removable for resharpening which should be a snap. It should cut PCB like butter though I hate to dull the blade cutting glass fiber. For cutting PCBs are other plastics I use a Freud Diablo non-ferrous cutting 10" blade on a table saw (carbide, 80 tooth as I recall) it has a very interesting tooth profile and a low, if not negative "hook". Cuts plastic and aluminum plate like butter...virtually no burrs. > > Steve > >
2012-12-22 by AlienRelics
Ask anyone who has tried to drill out a PCB using standard high speed steel drill bits, or tried to mill a PCB with a high speed steel engraving bit. If cutting on a tablesaw, I'd strongly recommend a carbide tipped blade. For drilling and milling, again carbide. Steve Greenfield AE7HD --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Corey Minion <csminion@...> wrote:
> > Why would fiberglass dull blades any faster than yellow or red brass or > any other metal for that matter? > > If you want to cut boards on a tablesaw, I would recommend a plastics > and phenolics ready triple chip grind neg rake blade such as this one > < > http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5968-industrial-quality-plastic-cutting-saw-blades.aspx?variantids=10261,0& > > > > > On 12/21/2012 12:24 PM, Mars Bonfire wrote: > > I have the equivalent bench shear from Gizzly Tool...but in the 8" size (Grizzly didn't seem to carry the 12" anymore). Looks almost identical to the enco with a somewhat different design for the hold down. > > > > If it is the same quality as the Grizzly, it is a great tool. I use it to shear everything from 1/8 plate down through 0.01" brass > > shim stock. The blades are hard and easily removable for resharpening which should be a snap. It should cut PCB like butter though I hate to dull the blade cutting glass fiber. For cutting PCBs are other plastics I use a Freud Diablo non-ferrous cutting 10" blade on a table saw (carbide, 80 tooth as I recall) it has a very interesting tooth profile and a low, if not negative "hook". Cuts plastic and aluminum plate like butter...virtually no burrs. > > > > Steve > > > > >
2012-12-22 by jeremy youngs
because the glass reinforcement in the board is very hard On Sat, Dec 22, 2012 at 12:22 AM, Corey Minion <csminion@...>wrote: > ** > > > Why would fiberglass dull blades any faster than yellow or red brass or > any other metal for that matter? > > -- jeremy youngs [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2012-12-22 by Corey Minion
Odd, I have drilled out hundreds if not thousands of undersized holes in boards (down to my last 25 boards after 3 years) It was my first pcb design and I screwed that up, never occurred to me that there were different sized leads on that first one. Anyone lubing there bits and tools prior to cutting? Also, are you use some sort of cooling? I use compressed air when working on boards. I have used 2 HSS bits over all that time, never noticed them dull much more than any tool I may work with on polycarb or acrylic. I find it dulls far less than working on ferrous metals, and less than non-ferrous as well. I am a college and real world trained silver(metal)smith since 89. I have always been really conscious of tool sharpness Worst material I have found so far to work with, industrial ceramics. EATS tools. nam nam nam.
On 12/22/2012 11:54 AM, AlienRelics wrote: > Ask anyone who has tried to drill out a PCB using standard high speed steel drill bits, or tried to mill a PCB with a high speed steel engraving bit. > > If cutting on a tablesaw, I'd strongly recommend a carbide tipped blade. For drilling and milling, again carbide. > > Steve Greenfield AE7HD > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Corey Minion <csminion@...> wrote: >> Why would fiberglass dull blades any faster than yellow or red brass or >> any other metal for that matter? >> >> If you want to cut boards on a tablesaw, I would recommend a plastics >> and phenolics ready triple chip grind neg rake blade such as this one >> < >> http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5968-industrial-quality-plastic-cutting-saw-blades.aspx?variantids=10261,0& >> > >> >> >> On 12/21/2012 12:24 PM, Mars Bonfire wrote: >>> I have the equivalent bench shear from Gizzly Tool...but in the 8" size (Grizzly didn't seem to carry the 12" anymore). Looks almost identical to the enco with a somewhat different design for the hold down. >>> >>> If it is the same quality as the Grizzly, it is a great tool. I use it to shear everything from 1/8 plate down through 0.01" brass >>> shim stock. The blades are hard and easily removable for resharpening which should be a snap. It should cut PCB like butter though I hate to dull the blade cutting glass fiber. For cutting PCBs are other plastics I use a Freud Diablo non-ferrous cutting 10" blade on a table saw (carbide, 80 tooth as I recall) it has a very interesting tooth profile and a low, if not negative "hook". Cuts plastic and aluminum plate like butter...virtually no burrs. >>> >>> Steve >>> >>> > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > > >
2012-12-22 by smilingcat90254
Really should not be using HSS blades. Here is a link to information regarding FR4 PCB. http://drum.lib.umd.edu/bitstream/1903/8362/1/umi-umd-5671.pdf chapt 2. has information on the composition of the FR4 core. And it says "The woven glass (generally E-grade) fiber cloth acts as reinforcement for the laminate, primarily providing mechanical strength and electrical properties." E-glass. It is basically the same kind of glass as in your windows, glass bottles... HSS blade will dull very quickly and be ruined. Have you tried to cut glass with HSS blade? I use a diamond scribe to score a glass. We also have a diamond coated abrasives to trim stained glass. We always use water. I have near phobia level fear of glass powder. Silicosis is not good at any age. And those working with fiberglass fabric S-glass, E-glass, kevlar and carbon, they buy scissors by the box load and throw them away as the blade gets dull. Pair of fabric scissors are lot cheaper than a tin snips. And tin snips last just as long as regular fabric scissors and not much more. If you want exercise in frustration, cut a glass fabric at an oblique angle to the direction of the weave. Hint, use adhesive tape near the cut. And yes for this reason, preference is for carbide tipped blades and drill bits. --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, jeremy youngs <jcyoungs76@...> wrote:
> > because the glass reinforcement in the board is very hard > > On Sat, Dec 22, 2012 at 12:22 AM, Corey Minion <csminion@...>wrote: > > > ** > > > > > > Why would fiberglass dull blades any faster than yellow or red brass or > > any other metal for that matter? > > > > > -- > jeremy youngs > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >
2012-12-24 by AlienRelics
Widening a hole is asking a lot less than drilling a hole where none exists. Steve Greenfield AE7HD --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Corey Minion <csminion@...> wrote:
> > Odd, I have drilled out hundreds if not thousands of undersized holes in > boards (down to my last 25 boards after 3 years) > It was my first pcb design and I screwed that up, never occurred to me > that there were different sized leads on that first one. > Anyone lubing there bits and tools prior to cutting? > Also, are you use some sort of cooling? > I use compressed air when working on boards. > > I have used 2 HSS bits over all that time, never noticed them dull much > more than any tool I may work with on polycarb or acrylic. > I find it dulls far less than working on ferrous metals, and less than > non-ferrous as well. > > I am a college and real world trained silver(metal)smith since 89. > I have always been really conscious of tool sharpness > > Worst material I have found so far to work with, industrial ceramics. > EATS tools. nam nam nam. >
2012-12-24 by jeremy youngs
also to note when producing boards one is usually using a high speed spindle and turning 15000 or more rpm On Sun, Dec 23, 2012 at 7:43 PM, AlienRelics <alienrelics@...> wrote: > ** > > > Widening a hole is asking a lot less than drilling a hole where none > exists. > > Steve Greenfield AE7HD > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Corey Minion <csminion@...> wrote: > > > > Odd, I have drilled out hundreds if not thousands of undersized holes in > > boards (down to my last 25 boards after 3 years) > > It was my first pcb design and I screwed that up, never occurred to me > > that there were different sized leads on that first one. > > Anyone lubing there bits and tools prior to cutting? > > Also, are you use some sort of cooling? > > I use compressed air when working on boards. > > > > I have used 2 HSS bits over all that time, never noticed them dull much > > more than any tool I may work with on polycarb or acrylic. > > I find it dulls far less than working on ferrous metals, and less than > > non-ferrous as well. > > > > I am a college and real world trained silver(metal)smith since 89. > > I have always been really conscious of tool sharpness > > > > Worst material I have found so far to work with, industrial ceramics. > > EATS tools. nam nam nam. > > > > > -- jeremy youngs [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2012-12-24 by Corey Minion
Yeah, I thought about that. I can see that having a lot to do with the longevity.
On 12/23/2012 7:43 PM, AlienRelics wrote: > Widening a hole is asking a lot less than drilling a hole where none exists. > > Steve Greenfield AE7HD > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Corey Minion <csminion@...> wrote: >> Odd, I have drilled out hundreds if not thousands of undersized holes in >> boards (down to my last 25 boards after 3 years) >> It was my first pcb design and I screwed that up, never occurred to me >> that there were different sized leads on that first one. >> Anyone lubing there bits and tools prior to cutting? >> Also, are you use some sort of cooling? >> I use compressed air when working on boards. >> >> I have used 2 HSS bits over all that time, never noticed them dull much >> more than any tool I may work with on polycarb or acrylic. >> I find it dulls far less than working on ferrous metals, and less than >> non-ferrous as well. >> >> I am a college and real world trained silver(metal)smith since 89. >> I have always been really conscious of tool sharpness >> >> Worst material I have found so far to work with, industrial ceramics. >> EATS tools. nam nam nam. >> > > > ------------------------------------ > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > > >
2012-12-24 by Corey Minion
Now that makes me wonder, as there are recommend speed rates for cutting materials. I can drill acrylic plastics with a 1/4" drill and at very different rpm than nickel, which is at a very different rpm than brass, again, a different speed than mild steel. Change the bit size more than 10% in either direction and usually the speeds for all will need to change again. It can be rather a PITA when doing a number of different sized holes in one material. What are the correct rpms for through drilling "virgin" boards and different dia holes?
On 12/24/2012 2:43 AM, jeremy youngs wrote: > also to note when producing boards one is usually using a high speed > spindle and turning 15000 or more rpm > > On Sun, Dec 23, 2012 at 7:43 PM, AlienRelics <alienrelics@...> wrote: > >> ** >> >> >> Widening a hole is asking a lot less than drilling a hole where none >> exists. >> >> Steve Greenfield AE7HD >> >> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Corey Minion <csminion@...> wrote: >>> Odd, I have drilled out hundreds if not thousands of undersized holes in >>> boards (down to my last 25 boards after 3 years) >>> It was my first pcb design and I screwed that up, never occurred to me >>> that there were different sized leads on that first one. >>> Anyone lubing there bits and tools prior to cutting? >>> Also, are you use some sort of cooling? >>> I use compressed air when working on boards. >>> >>> I have used 2 HSS bits over all that time, never noticed them dull much >>> more than any tool I may work with on polycarb or acrylic. >>> I find it dulls far less than working on ferrous metals, and less than >>> non-ferrous as well. >>> >>> I am a college and real world trained silver(metal)smith since 89. >>> I have always been really conscious of tool sharpness >>> >>> Worst material I have found so far to work with, industrial ceramics. >>> EATS tools. nam nam nam. >>> >> >> > >
2012-12-25 by Harvey White
On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 12:07:19 -0500, you wrote: >Now that makes me wonder, as there are recommend speed rates for cutting >materials. > >I can drill acrylic plastics with a 1/4" drill and at very different rpm >than nickel, which is at a very different rpm than brass, again, a >different speed than mild steel. >Change the bit size more than 10% in either direction and usually the >speeds for all will need to change again. >It can be rather a PITA when doing a number of different sized holes in >one material. > >What are the correct rpms for through drilling "virgin" boards and >different dia holes? Generally, from about #50 on down, I use at least 20000 RPM, and would use 30 from #60 on down, if I had something that did it. For #50 to about #40 I'd use 10K RPM or so, but that's a feel thing rather than not. The real thing to calculate is chip load (how much is drilled per revolution) and SFM (surface feet/minute) which is computed at the edge of the drill bit and is related directly to drill size (in terms of RPM). No idea of what it's supposed to be for FR4, and also needs to be adjusted for tools used. Harvey
> > > >On 12/24/2012 2:43 AM, jeremy youngs wrote: >> also to note when producing boards one is usually using a high speed >> spindle and turning 15000 or more rpm >> >> On Sun, Dec 23, 2012 at 7:43 PM, AlienRelics <alienrelics@...> wrote: >> >>> ** >>> >>> >>> Widening a hole is asking a lot less than drilling a hole where none >>> exists. >>> >>> Steve Greenfield AE7HD >>> >>> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Corey Minion <csminion@...> wrote: >>>> Odd, I have drilled out hundreds if not thousands of undersized holes in >>>> boards (down to my last 25 boards after 3 years) >>>> It was my first pcb design and I screwed that up, never occurred to me >>>> that there were different sized leads on that first one. >>>> Anyone lubing there bits and tools prior to cutting? >>>> Also, are you use some sort of cooling? >>>> I use compressed air when working on boards. >>>> >>>> I have used 2 HSS bits over all that time, never noticed them dull much >>>> more than any tool I may work with on polycarb or acrylic. >>>> I find it dulls far less than working on ferrous metals, and less than >>>> non-ferrous as well. >>>> >>>> I am a college and real world trained silver(metal)smith since 89. >>>> I have always been really conscious of tool sharpness >>>> >>>> Worst material I have found so far to work with, industrial ceramics. >>>> EATS tools. nam nam nam. >>>> >>> >>> >> >>
2012-12-25 by Mitch Davis
On 12/25/12, Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote: > >>Now that makes me wonder, as there are recommend speed rates for cutting >>materials. >> >>What are the correct rpms for through drilling "virgin" boards and >>different dia holes? > > Generally, from about #50 on down, I use at least 20000 RPM, and would > use 30 from #60 on down, if I had something that did it. Not uncommon for the drilling machines in the fabs to run at 200,000RPM. They are insane to watch. The drill heads pop up and down as fast as the needle on a sewing machine. I took some video at the recent Shenzhen China PCB show, but because Youtube is blocked in China, it's difficult for me to show you. Mitch.
2012-12-25 by Jeff Heiss
200,000 RPM wow! Are the air turbines like a dentist drill? Jeff _____
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mitch Davis Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2012 12:27 AM To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: PCB cutting On 12/25/12, Harvey White <madyn@... <mailto:madyn%40dragonworks.info> > wrote: > >>Now that makes me wonder, as there are recommend speed rates for cutting >>materials. >> >>What are the correct rpms for through drilling "virgin" boards and >>different dia holes? > > Generally, from about #50 on down, I use at least 20000 RPM, and would > use 30 from #60 on down, if I had something that did it. Not uncommon for the drilling machines in the fabs to run at 200,000RPM. They are insane to watch. The drill heads pop up and down as fast as the needle on a sewing machine. I took some video at the recent Shenzhen China PCB show, but because Youtube is blocked in China, it's difficult for me to show you. Mitch. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2012-12-29 by tda7000
If youtube has issues with it why not just upload the video files to something like rapidshare and we can all download a copy instead? --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Mitch Davis <mjd@...> wrote:
> > On 12/25/12, Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote: > > > >>Now that makes me wonder, as there are recommend speed rates for cutting > >>materials. > >> > >>What are the correct rpms for through drilling "virgin" boards and > >>different dia holes? > > > > Generally, from about #50 on down, I use at least 20000 RPM, and would > > use 30 from #60 on down, if I had something that did it. > > Not uncommon for the drilling machines in the fabs to run at > 200,000RPM. They are insane to watch. The drill heads pop up and > down as fast as the needle on a sewing machine. I took some video at > the recent Shenzhen China PCB show, but because Youtube is blocked in > China, it's difficult for me to show you. > > Mitch. >
2012-12-29 by Mitch Davis
On Sat, Dec 29, 2012 at 12:53 PM, tda7000 <Tda7000@...> wrote: > If youtube has issues with it why not just upload the video files to > something like rapidshare and we can all download a copy instead? Coz that's blocked too.
2012-12-29 by tda7000
I think I misunderstood - I thought Youtube was blocking your video, but if I am correct now you are in China and can't access Youtube? Someone here must know a site that would work... --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Mitch Davis <mjd@...> wrote:
> > On Sat, Dec 29, 2012 at 12:53 PM, tda7000 <Tda7000@...> wrote: > > If youtube has issues with it why not just upload the video files to > > something like rapidshare and we can all download a copy instead? > > Coz that's blocked too. >
2012-12-29 by kabowers@NorthState.net
On Sat, 29 Dec 2012 06:22:43 -0000, you wrote: >I think I misunderstood - I thought Youtube was blocking your video, but if I am correct now you are in China and can't access Youtube? > >Someone here must know a site that would work... > >--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Mitch Davis <mjd@...> wrote: >> >> On Sat, Dec 29, 2012 at 12:53 PM, tda7000 <Tda7000@...> wrote: >> > If youtube has issues with it why not just upload the video files to >> > something like rapidshare and we can all download a copy instead? >> >> Coz that's blocked too. >> > It would be a bit of work, but you could post it on one of the binary newsgroups and someone here could pull it down and post it on youtube etc. Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC
2012-12-29 by Harvey White
On Sat, 29 Dec 2012 06:22:43 -0000, you wrote: >I think I misunderstood - I thought Youtube was blocking your video, but if I am correct now you are in China and can't access Youtube? > >Someone here must know a site that would work... IIRC, the Chinese Government has blocked "subversive" sites such as Youtube.... Harvey
> >--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Mitch Davis <mjd@...> wrote: >> >> On Sat, Dec 29, 2012 at 12:53 PM, tda7000 <Tda7000@...> wrote: >> > If youtube has issues with it why not just upload the video files to >> > something like rapidshare and we can all download a copy instead? >> >> Coz that's blocked too. >> >
2012-12-29 by Mitch Davis
On Sun, Dec 30, 2012 at 12:29 AM, Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote: > On Sat, 29 Dec 2012 06:22:43 -0000, you wrote: > >>I think I misunderstood - I thought Youtube was blocking your video, but if I am correct now you are in China and can't access Youtube? >> >>Someone here must know a site that would work... > > IIRC, the Chinese Government has blocked "subversive" sites such as > Youtube.... Because of course, cute kittens are somehow dangerous. Anyway, after all that I looked at my phone today, and it seems that I unintentionally took a rather unconvincing still picture, rather than video. Sorry guys. Mitch.