Synth-DIY Yahoo! Groups Archives

Thread

FR4 cutting?

2012-03-30 by engmstevens@rocketmail.com

I've been reviewing options for PCB cutting and my options are limited by the fact that I live in an apartment with no garage, so power tools are out of the question.

I've looked into guillotines and brakes, hacksaws (fiberglass dust sucks), score and snap, and any other option i can think of but I can't really decide.  Has anyone had any kind of real success with any of these?

Hacksaw would obviously be the choice of inexpensive and easy but I'll be damned if I can cut a straight line.  I always have to go back over with a file to clean the edges.  Score and snap took forever.  I've seen videos of people using 6 or 8" inch sheet metal brakes but never got any feedback when I sent them PMs regarding blade life.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR4 cutting?

2012-03-30 by Leon Heller

I use CEM-1, which is *much* easier to score and snap than FR4.Leon

Leon
-- 
Leon Heller
G1HSM

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR4 cutting?

2012-03-30 by Boman33

I have a 10" guillotine type that I bought about 30 years ago.  It was not
cheap.

Over the years I have been cutting PCBs and sheet metal and I have never
sharpened the blades yet.  It is quiet and super-fast.

Bertho

Show quoted textHide quoted text

From:  engmstevens@...



I've been reviewing options for PCB cutting and my options are limited by
the fact that I live in an apartment with no garage, so power tools are out
of the question.

I've looked into guillotines and brakes, hacksaws (fiberglass dust sucks),
score and snap, and any other option i can think of but I can't really
decide. Has anyone had any kind of real success with any of these?

Hacksaw would obviously be the choice of inexpensive and easy but I'll be
damned if I can cut a straight line. I always have to go back over with a
file to clean the edges. Score and snap took forever. I've seen videos of
people using 6 or 8" inch sheet metal brakes but never got any feedback when
I sent them PMs regarding blade life. 





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR4 cutting?

2012-03-30 by John Greusel

I clamp it between two small boards and cut with one of those 6" hobby saws. It doesn't take long and makes a nice cut. I do it outdoors- weather permitting.

John
KC9OJV

 



________________________________

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 From: "engmstevens@..." <engmstevens@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2012 10:17 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR4 cutting?

I've been reviewing options for PCB cutting and my options are limited by the fact that I live in an apartment with no garage, so power tools are out of the question.

I've looked into guillotines and brakes, hacksaws (fiberglass dust sucks), score and snap, and any other option i can think of but I can't really decide.  Has anyone had any kind of real success with any of these?

Hacksaw would obviously be the choice of inexpensive and easy but I'll be damned if I can cut a straight line.  I always have to go back over with a file to clean the edges.  Score and snap took forever.  I've seen videos of people using 6 or 8" inch sheet metal brakes but never got any feedback when I sent them PMs regarding blade life. 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: FR4 cutting?

2012-03-30 by leeleduc

I use 0.031" instead of 0.062" FR4 for hobby use. It's much easier to work with. I can cut it cleanly with a paper trimmer or with sheet metal shears. I use the toner transfer method and this thickness works well with my laminator, no mods needed. I also find that my drill bits last longer. At first I was concerned about the board flexing but this was not a problem at all. Give it a try.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "engmstevens@..." <engmstevens@...> wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>
> I've been reviewing options for PCB cutting and my options are limited by the fact that I live in an apartment with no garage, so power tools are out of the question.
> 
> I've looked into guillotines and brakes, hacksaws (fiberglass dust sucks), score and snap, and any other option i can think of but I can't really decide.  Has anyone had any kind of real success with any of these?
> 
> Hacksaw would obviously be the choice of inexpensive and easy but I'll be damned if I can cut a straight line.  I always have to go back over with a file to clean the edges.  Score and snap took forever.  I've seen videos of people using 6 or 8" inch sheet metal brakes but never got any feedback when I sent them PMs regarding blade life.
>

Re: FR4 cutting?

2012-03-30 by leeleduc

You can see an example of a 0.031" board I cut with a paper trimmer in the photos section under the "Dissolvo Paper Experiment" folder. It came out very clean and straight.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "leeleduc" <leeleduc@...> wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use 0.031" instead of 0.062" FR4 for hobby use. It's much easier to work with. I can cut it cleanly with a paper trimmer or with sheet metal shears. I use the toner transfer method and this thickness works well with my laminator, no mods needed. I also find that my drill bits last longer. At first I was concerned about the board flexing but this was not a problem at all. Give it a try.
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "engmstevens@" <engmstevens@> wrote:
> >
> > I've been reviewing options for PCB cutting and my options are limited by the fact that I live in an apartment with no garage, so power tools are out of the question.
> > 
> > I've looked into guillotines and brakes, hacksaws (fiberglass dust sucks), score and snap, and any other option i can think of but I can't really decide.  Has anyone had any kind of real success with any of these?
> > 
> > Hacksaw would obviously be the choice of inexpensive and easy but I'll be damned if I can cut a straight line.  I always have to go back over with a file to clean the edges.  Score and snap took forever.  I've seen videos of people using 6 or 8" inch sheet metal brakes but never got any feedback when I sent them PMs regarding blade life.
> >
>

Re: FR4 cutting?

2012-03-30 by Wayne Causey

What type of metal shear do you use?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR4 cutting?

2012-03-30 by Harvey White

On Fri, 30 Mar 2012 03:17:30 -0000, you wrote:

>I've been reviewing options for PCB cutting and my options are limited by the fact that I live in an apartment with no garage, so power tools are out of the question.

At least, hand power tools are ok.  You can get a small tile wet saw,
desktop, from places like Harbor Freight.
>
>I've looked into guillotines and brakes, hacksaws (fiberglass dust sucks), score and snap, and any other option i can think of but I can't really decide.  Has anyone had any kind of real success with any of these?
>
Yes, metal brake.  I have a 30 inch metal brake, the 3 in one setup.
It is quite heavy, I have good success with trimming PC board, some
plastics, sheet metal (as long as not too thick).

However, I don't recommend that particular model to you because of
size and weight.  It took a shop crane to put it on its braced table
(now on wheels).  You can get a smaller metal shear that will handle 8
or 10 inch wide board stock.  Your (perhaps best) bet would be to
pre-cut things to the point where you can use the shear.

Score and snap works for me only when I see (and use, and I mostly
don't) the paper based laminates.  

You may wish to try a tile wet saw, although I haven't used one, it
does show promise.  The advantage of the shear is that I can cut raw
stock, and also trim the final board.  A bit of sanding (minimal!)
with fine sandpaper will smooth the board edges.

Harvey

>Hacksaw would obviously be the choice of inexpensive and easy but I'll be damned if I can cut a straight line.  I always have to go back over with a file to clean the edges.  Score and snap took forever.  I've seen videos of people using 6 or 8" inch sheet metal brakes but never got any feedback when I sent them PMs regarding blade life.

Re: FR4 cutting?

2012-03-30 by leeleduc

There was a thread on this topic. Search the messages for Wiss or aviation shears. 

I've used these on 0.031".

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100062152/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=wiss&storeId=10051

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Wayne Causey" <wayne.causey@...> wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>
> What type of metal shear do you use?
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Re: FR4 cutting?

2012-03-30 by sheldon_mp_cooper

I second that.  That's exactly what I've been using.  For a guide line for cutting with a straight cut aviation tin snip, I show the board outline in the Eagle image export used for etching.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "leeleduc" <leeleduc@...> wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>
> I use 0.031" instead of 0.062" FR4 for hobby use. It's much easier to work with. I can cut it cleanly with a paper trimmer or with sheet metal shears. I use the toner transfer method and this thickness works well with my laminator, no mods needed. I also find that my drill bits last longer. At first I was concerned about the board flexing but this was not a problem at all. Give it a try.
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "engmstevens@" <engmstevens@> wrote:
> >
> > I've been reviewing options for PCB cutting and my options are limited by the fact that I live in an apartment with no garage, so power tools are out of the question.
> > 
> > I've looked into guillotines and brakes, hacksaws (fiberglass dust sucks), score and snap, and any other option i can think of but I can't really decide.  Has anyone had any kind of real success with any of these?
> > 
> > Hacksaw would obviously be the choice of inexpensive and easy but I'll be damned if I can cut a straight line.  I always have to go back over with a file to clean the edges.  Score and snap took forever.  I've seen videos of people using 6 or 8" inch sheet metal brakes but never got any feedback when I sent them PMs regarding blade life.
> >
>

Re: FR4 cutting?

2012-03-30 by alex4459jopiklal44

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "engmstevens@..." <engmstevens@...> wrote:
>
> I've been reviewing options for PCB cutting and my options are limited by the fact that I live in an apartment with no garage, so power tools are out of the question.

here my experience..
I have used a plummer sisor or whatever it is called in english :)
the problem is that it  bend the edge and if it is with photoresist , the resist is unusable 5 mm from the edge. the same had been the result when using a guilotine.. but after, it is very nice.

I have ended with a proxxon table saw ,its very nice and small, and with the vacum cleaner connected to the saw, I can cut in my kitchen too
I cant see any fibres in the air , when I use a spotlight to make it visbile..
the proxxon is rather cheap at Reichelt in germany.. around 100euro ,the hardmetal blade is rather costly affair, but after a year
I'm very satisfied with it..after  ,say ,5 meter cutting.
alex

Re: FR4 cutting?

2012-04-01 by engmstevens@rocketmail.com

Thank you everyone for the recommendations.  I made a few phone calls to some local guys in the maker scene and theyve all pointed me to something like this 

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200309554_200309554

I was originally hesitant but I had a chance to see how the edges come out and I was somewhat content with how they look.  
Honestly, after comparing this tool to a true "PCB shear", I can't really tell the difference.

I think Ill check harbor freight online or some places locally in dallas.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sheldon_mp_cooper" <bigbazinga@...> wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>
> I second that.  That's exactly what I've been using.  For a guide line for cutting with a straight cut aviation tin snip, I show the board outline in the Eagle image export used for etching.
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "leeleduc" <leeleduc@> wrote:
> >
> > I use 0.031" instead of 0.062" FR4 for hobby use. It's much easier to work with. I can cut it cleanly with a paper trimmer or with sheet metal shears. I use the toner transfer method and this thickness works well with my laminator, no mods needed. I also find that my drill bits last longer. At first I was concerned about the board flexing but this was not a problem at all. Give it a try.
> > 
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "engmstevens@" <engmstevens@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I've been reviewing options for PCB cutting and my options are limited by the fact that I live in an apartment with no garage, so power tools are out of the question.
> > > 
> > > I've looked into guillotines and brakes, hacksaws (fiberglass dust sucks), score and snap, and any other option i can think of but I can't really decide.  Has anyone had any kind of real success with any of these?
> > > 
> > > Hacksaw would obviously be the choice of inexpensive and easy but I'll be damned if I can cut a straight line.  I always have to go back over with a file to clean the edges.  Score and snap took forever.  I've seen videos of people using 6 or 8" inch sheet metal brakes but never got any feedback when I sent them PMs regarding blade life.
> > >
> >
>

Re: FR4 cutting?

2012-04-02 by sheldon_mp_cooper

I did a Google search and found this exchange:

Easiest way to cut PCB's? (with no dust issues)

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/62929-easiest-way-cut-pcbs-4.html

----------

Post:

Tile wet saw. You can get small cheap ones where the blade runs through a water bath, no pump, and eliminates dust. A continuous rim tile blade may not be optimum but a segmented blade or turbo style blade should do well. You can get cheap Chinese variants of these blades that would be fine for circuit board. Look for a blade that states it's for concrete or granite. You can get them cheaply in the 3 to 4 inch size that fits one of these cheap $50 saws.

Response:
	
Now THAT makes sense.

----------

And since you mentioned Harbor Freight:

4" Tile Saw with Wet Tray

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-tile-saw-with-wet-tray-3733.html

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "engmstevens@..." <engmstevens@...> wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>
> Thank you everyone for the recommendations.  I made a few phone calls to some local guys in the maker scene and theyve all pointed me to something like this 
> 
> http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200309554_200309554
> 
> I was originally hesitant but I had a chance to see how the edges come out and I was somewhat content with how they look.  
> Honestly, after comparing this tool to a true "PCB shear", I can't really tell the difference.
> 
> I think Ill check harbor freight online or some places locally in dallas.
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sheldon_mp_cooper" <bigbazinga@> wrote:
> >
> > I second that.  That's exactly what I've been using.  For a guide line for cutting with a straight cut aviation tin snip, I show the board outline in the Eagle image export used for etching.
> > 
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "leeleduc" <leeleduc@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I use 0.031" instead of 0.062" FR4 for hobby use. It's much easier to work with. I can cut it cleanly with a paper trimmer or with sheet metal shears. I use the toner transfer method and this thickness works well with my laminator, no mods needed. I also find that my drill bits last longer. At first I was concerned about the board flexing but this was not a problem at all. Give it a try.
> > > 
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "engmstevens@" <engmstevens@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I've been reviewing options for PCB cutting and my options are limited by the fact that I live in an apartment with no garage, so power tools are out of the question.
> > > > 
> > > > I've looked into guillotines and brakes, hacksaws (fiberglass dust sucks), score and snap, and any other option i can think of but I can't really decide.  Has anyone had any kind of real success with any of these?
> > > > 
> > > > Hacksaw would obviously be the choice of inexpensive and easy but I'll be damned if I can cut a straight line.  I always have to go back over with a file to clean the edges.  Score and snap took forever.  I've seen videos of people using 6 or 8" inch sheet metal brakes but never got any feedback when I sent them PMs regarding blade life.
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR4 cutting?

2012-04-02 by Simao Cardoso

engmstevens@... wrote:
>   
> I've been reviewing options for PCB cutting and my options are limited
> by the fact that I live in an apartment with no garage, so power tools
> are out of the question.
> 

I personally recommend 3 tools:
a carbide scriber like
http://www.amazon.com/Carbide-Metalsmith-Scribe-Marking-Tools/dp/B000SV7EYQ/ref=sr_1_5?qid=1333403310
a longest blade strong scissor you can find like
http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=HT
+SNIPS&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=14-566
The third is just a hard and thick sandpaper glued on a flat wood piece.

I have the exact tools on shown pictures, payed 20eur for them locally
and they are really great. I had cut large >1m wide panels down to my
needs with them, easy and fast. With the sand paper it's possible to
give a nice finish, the dust don't go up in the air and can be vacuum
cleaned from the sandpaper. 

If you have a bit more money to spend, buy a cheap CNC driller and
router and order your pcb panels cut to the table size.

PS: I have now found a even better scissor
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stanley-Aviation-Snip-Long-Cut-2-14-566-/190505892563
Anyone wants mine? :(

Re: FR4 cutting?

2012-04-08 by D

Hi,

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "engmstevens@..." <engmstevens@...> wrote:
> 
> I think Ill check harbor freight online or some places locally in dallas.

I use an 8" sheet metal sheer from Harbor Freight and I'm happy with the results.  It cost around $125.

BR,
Dennis

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: FR4 cutting?

2012-04-09 by Robert Jones

What is the catalog no or product name of the sheet metal cutter on Harbor Freights website? 

Thanks



________________________________

Show quoted textHide quoted text

 From: D <dl5012@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, April 8, 2012 10:22 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: FR4 cutting?

Hi,

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "engmstevens@..." <engmstevens@...> wrote:
> 
> I think Ill check harbor freight online or some places locally in dallas.

I use an 8" sheet metal sheer from Harbor Freight and I'm happy with the results.  It cost around $125.

BR,
Dennis

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: FR4 cutting?

2012-04-10 by Erik Knise

Item # 90757 - http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-bench-top-shear-brake-90757.html

It sure has gone up in price in the last few years...Grizzly's is way
cheaper. http://www.grizzly.com/products/8-Mini-Shear-Brake/T23109

Something like http://www.grizzly.com/products/Plate-Shear-8-/T23100
is about 1/2 the price and should yield similar results.

--
Erik L. Knise
Seattle, WA

Show quoted textHide quoted text

On Mon, Apr 9, 2012 at 9:45 AM, Robert Jones <olmanjones@...> wrote:
> What is the catalog no or product name of the sheet metal cutter on Harbor Freights website?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>  From: D <dl5012@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, April 8, 2012 10:22 AM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: FR4 cutting?
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "engmstevens@..." <engmstevens@...> wrote:
>>
>> I think Ill check harbor freight online or some places locally in dallas.
>
> I use an 8" sheet metal sheer from Harbor Freight and I'm happy with the results.  It cost around $125.
>
> BR,
> Dennis
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: FR4 cutting?

2012-04-10 by Stefan Trethan

I use a lever shear just like this.
For the best edge I have shimmed the blades closer together with paper strips.

Cutting boards longer than the blade requires some force, because the
shear tends to pull to one side and you need to steer against, but it
is quite possible.

I usually clean the edges on some sandpaper to remove any loose fibers.

ST

On Sun, Apr 1, 2012 at 9:29 AM, engmstevens@...
<engmstevens@...> wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

> Thank you everyone for the recommendations.  I made a few phone calls to some local guys in the maker scene and theyve all pointed me to something like this
>
> http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200309554_200309554
>
> I was originally hesitant but I had a chance to see how the edges come out and I was somewhat content with how they look.
> Honestly, after comparing this tool to a true "PCB shear", I can't really tell the difference.
>
> I think Ill check harbor freight online or some places locally in dallas.
>

Re: FR4 cutting?

2012-04-12 by waynehcausey

Which is better for FR4 cutting: Shear or Shear/Brake?

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Erik Knise <elknise@...> wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>
> Item # 90757 - http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-bench-top-shear-brake-90757.html
> 
> It sure has gone up in price in the last few years...Grizzly's is way
> cheaper. http://www.grizzly.com/products/8-Mini-Shear-Brake/T23109
> 
> Something like http://www.grizzly.com/products/Plate-Shear-8-/T23100
> is about 1/2 the price and should yield similar results.
> 
> --
> Erik L. Knise
> Seattle, WA
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Apr 9, 2012 at 9:45 AM, Robert Jones <olmanjones@...> wrote:
> > What is the catalog no or product name of the sheet metal cutter on Harbor Freights website?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> >  From: D <dl5012@...>
> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Sunday, April 8, 2012 10:22 AM
> > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: FR4 cutting?
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "engmstevens@" <engmstevens@> wrote:
> >>
> >> I think Ill check harbor freight online or some places locally in dallas.
> >
> > I use an 8" sheet metal sheer from Harbor Freight and I'm happy with the results.  It cost around $125.
> >
> > BR,
> > Dennis
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: FR4 cutting?

2012-04-12 by Harvey White

On Thu, 12 Apr 2012 15:05:42 -0000, you wrote:

>Which is better for FR4 cutting: Shear or Shear/Brake?

No real difference.  I have a shear/brake combination, and the brake
is not used for FR4.  Mostly a matter of cost for you.  Mine is a 30
inch, gotten on sale, and I have used the shear, brake, and roll
features.

Harvey

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>
>--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Erik Knise <elknise@...> wrote:
>>
>> Item # 90757 - http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-bench-top-shear-brake-90757.html
>> 
>> It sure has gone up in price in the last few years...Grizzly's is way
>> cheaper. http://www.grizzly.com/products/8-Mini-Shear-Brake/T23109
>> 
>> Something like http://www.grizzly.com/products/Plate-Shear-8-/T23100
>> is about 1/2 the price and should yield similar results.
>> 
>> --
>> Erik L. Knise
>> Seattle, WA
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Mon, Apr 9, 2012 at 9:45 AM, Robert Jones <olmanjones@...> wrote:
>> > What is the catalog no or product name of the sheet metal cutter on Harbor Freights website?
>> >
>> > Thanks
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ________________________________
>> > \ufffdFrom: D <dl5012@...>
>> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>> > Sent: Sunday, April 8, 2012 10:22 AM
>> > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: FR4 cutting?
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Hi,
>> >
>> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "engmstevens@" <engmstevens@> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I think Ill check harbor freight online or some places locally in dallas.
>> >
>> > I use an 8" sheet metal sheer from Harbor Freight and I'm happy with the results. \ufffdIt cost around $125.
>> >
>> > BR,
>> > Dennis
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ------------------------------------
>> >
>> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>

Re: FR4 cutting?

2012-04-12 by waynehcausey

Harvey, thanks for the info.

I am wandering if the Griggly 8" mini shear/brake would be easier on coated PCB than the shear?

Will the shear/brake make straight cuts better than the the shear?

Does anyone have experience with both?

Wayne

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>
> On Thu, 12 Apr 2012 15:05:42 -0000, you wrote:
> 
> >Which is better for FR4 cutting: Shear or Shear/Brake?
> 
> No real difference.  I have a shear/brake combination, and the brake
> is not used for FR4.  Mostly a matter of cost for you.  Mine is a 30
> inch, gotten on sale, and I have used the shear, brake, and roll
> features.
> 
> Harvey
> 
> >
> >--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Erik Knise <elknise@> wrote:
> >>
> >> Item # 90757 - http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-bench-top-shear-brake-90757.html
> >> 
> >> It sure has gone up in price in the last few years...Grizzly's is way
> >> cheaper. http://www.grizzly.com/products/8-Mini-Shear-Brake/T23109
> >> 
> >> Something like http://www.grizzly.com/products/Plate-Shear-8-/T23100
> >> is about 1/2 the price and should yield similar results.
> >> 
> >> --
> >> Erik L. Knise
> >> Seattle, WA
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> On Mon, Apr 9, 2012 at 9:45 AM, Robert Jones <olmanjones@> wrote:
> >> > What is the catalog no or product name of the sheet metal cutter on Harbor Freights website?
> >> >
> >> > Thanks
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > ________________________________
> >> >  From: D <dl5012@>
> >> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> >> > Sent: Sunday, April 8, 2012 10:22 AM
> >> > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: FR4 cutting?
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Hi,
> >> >
> >> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "engmstevens@" <engmstevens@> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> I think Ill check harbor freight online or some places locally in dallas.
> >> >
> >> > I use an 8" sheet metal sheer from Harbor Freight and I'm happy with the results.  It cost around $125.
> >> >
> >> > BR,
> >> > Dennis
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > ------------------------------------
> >> >
> >> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> >> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: FR4 cutting?

2012-04-12 by Erik Knise

Wayne,

I have used a variety of shears.  The dedicated ones tend to be larger
and have a larger capacity.  The combo machines usually have a smaller
capacity but are still great for light and/or intricate work.  The
little 8 inch guy is rated for 22 gauge steel which is roughly .03"
thick.  It will probably cut thicker steel but the blades won't last
very long.  PCB's in my experience cut pretty easily.  They are
dense/rigid but not hard enough to destroy most blades.  Dull them
yes, but not destroy them like cutting thick metal does.  A plate
sheer is going to give you more capacity if you are using boards up to
.125" thick but normal .060-.015 boards should cut fine with the 8
inch shear or tin snips.  Most of us use ~.030 inch boards anyways.

As for the straightness of the cut they will be equal.  The brake
portion is for bending metal.  That could be handy if you want to try
to make your own heatsinks or cases.  Most guillotine style shears
have an in feed table to support the work which would make it easier
to use than a plate sheer.  A table would be relatively easy to add to
either style.

--
Erik L. Knise
Seattle, WA


On Thu, Apr 12, 2012 at 9:42 AM, waynehcausey
<wayne.causey@...> wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

> Harvey, thanks for the info.
>
> I am wandering if the Griggly 8" mini shear/brake would be easier on coated PCB than the shear?
>
> Will the shear/brake make straight cuts better than the the shear?
>
> Does anyone have experience with both?
>
> Wayne

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: FR4 cutting?

2012-04-12 by Shannon Haworth

I would chime in here and agree that a break is useful if you decide to
bend metal as well as cut PCB boards.  For PCB cutting, it is irrelevant.
 Neither a pro or a con.

On Thu, Apr 12, 2012 at 1:22 PM, Erik Knise <elknise@gmail.com> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Wayne,
>
> I have used a variety of shears. The dedicated ones tend to be larger
> and have a larger capacity. The combo machines usually have a smaller
> capacity but are still great for light and/or intricate work. The
> little 8 inch guy is rated for 22 gauge steel which is roughly .03"
> thick. It will probably cut thicker steel but the blades won't last
> very long. PCB's in my experience cut pretty easily. They are
> dense/rigid but not hard enough to destroy most blades. Dull them
> yes, but not destroy them like cutting thick metal does. A plate
> sheer is going to give you more capacity if you are using boards up to
> .125" thick but normal .060-.015 boards should cut fine with the 8
> inch shear or tin snips. Most of us use ~.030 inch boards anyways.
>
> As for the straightness of the cut they will be equal. The brake
> portion is for bending metal. That could be handy if you want to try
> to make your own heatsinks or cases. Most guillotine style shears
> have an in feed table to support the work which would make it easier
> to use than a plate sheer. A table would be relatively easy to add to
> either style.
>
>
> --
> Erik L. Knise
> Seattle, WA
>
> On Thu, Apr 12, 2012 at 9:42 AM, waynehcausey
> <wayne.causey@2ctechnologies.com> wrote:
> > Harvey, thanks for the info.
> >
> > I am wandering if the Griggly 8" mini shear/brake would be easier on
> coated PCB than the shear?
> >
> > Will the shear/brake make straight cuts better than the the shear?
> >
> > Does anyone have experience with both?
> >
> > Wayne
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: FR4 cutting?

2012-04-12 by waynehcausey

Erik, Shannon;

Thanks for comments. I will opt for the shear/brake from Grizzly.

Wayne

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Haworth <shannon.haworth@...> wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>
> I would chime in here and agree that a break is useful if you decide to
> bend metal as well as cut PCB boards.  For PCB cutting, it is irrelevant.
>  Neither a pro or a con.
> 
> On Thu, Apr 12, 2012 at 1:22 PM, Erik Knise <elknise@...> wrote:
> 
> > **
> >
> >
> > Wayne,
> >
> > I have used a variety of shears. The dedicated ones tend to be larger
> > and have a larger capacity. The combo machines usually have a smaller
> > capacity but are still great for light and/or intricate work. The
> > little 8 inch guy is rated for 22 gauge steel which is roughly .03"
> > thick. It will probably cut thicker steel but the blades won't last
> > very long. PCB's in my experience cut pretty easily. They are
> > dense/rigid but not hard enough to destroy most blades. Dull them
> > yes, but not destroy them like cutting thick metal does. A plate
> > sheer is going to give you more capacity if you are using boards up to
> > .125" thick but normal .060-.015 boards should cut fine with the 8
> > inch shear or tin snips. Most of us use ~.030 inch boards anyways.
> >
> > As for the straightness of the cut they will be equal. The brake
> > portion is for bending metal. That could be handy if you want to try
> > to make your own heatsinks or cases. Most guillotine style shears
> > have an in feed table to support the work which would make it easier
> > to use than a plate sheer. A table would be relatively easy to add to
> > either style.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Erik L. Knise
> > Seattle, WA
> >
> > On Thu, Apr 12, 2012 at 9:42 AM, waynehcausey
> > <wayne.causey@...> wrote:
> > > Harvey, thanks for the info.
> > >
> > > I am wandering if the Griggly 8" mini shear/brake would be easier on
> > coated PCB than the shear?
> > >
> > > Will the shear/brake make straight cuts better than the the shear?
> > >
> > > Does anyone have experience with both?
> > >
> > > Wayne
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: FR4 cutting?

2012-04-12 by Harvey White

On Thu, 12 Apr 2012 16:42:34 -0000, you wrote:

>Harvey, thanks for the info.
>
>I am wandering if the Griggly 8" mini shear/brake would be easier on coated PCB than the shear?

Nope.  It's the flex of the board when sheared.  Less when cut, even
less if diamond cut or milled.

My understanding of a shear vs a shear/brake is that the brake part
allows bending metal, and therefore, is not relevant to the argument.
>
>Will the shear/brake make straight cuts better than the the shear?
>

You need to hold the board against a straight brace and keep it from
wandering when sheared.  Otherwise, a shear does a fine job.  Good
lighting and layout marks on the board will help.

Harvey

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>Does anyone have experience with both?
>
>Wayne
>
>--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:
>>
>> On Thu, 12 Apr 2012 15:05:42 -0000, you wrote:
>> 
>> >Which is better for FR4 cutting: Shear or Shear/Brake?
>> 
>> No real difference.  I have a shear/brake combination, and the brake
>> is not used for FR4.  Mostly a matter of cost for you.  Mine is a 30
>> inch, gotten on sale, and I have used the shear, brake, and roll
>> features.
>> 
>> Harvey
>> 
>> >
>> >--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Erik Knise <elknise@> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Item # 90757 - http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-bench-top-shear-brake-90757.html
>> >> 
>> >> It sure has gone up in price in the last few years...Grizzly's is way
>> >> cheaper. http://www.grizzly.com/products/8-Mini-Shear-Brake/T23109
>> >> 
>> >> Something like http://www.grizzly.com/products/Plate-Shear-8-/T23100
>> >> is about 1/2 the price and should yield similar results.
>> >> 
>> >> --
>> >> Erik L. Knise
>> >> Seattle, WA
>> >> 
>> >> 
>> >> 
>> >> On Mon, Apr 9, 2012 at 9:45 AM, Robert Jones <olmanjones@> wrote:
>> >> > What is the catalog no or product name of the sheet metal cutter on Harbor Freights website?
>> >> >
>> >> > Thanks
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> > ________________________________
>> >> > \ufffdFrom: D <dl5012@>
>> >> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>> >> > Sent: Sunday, April 8, 2012 10:22 AM
>> >> > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: FR4 cutting?
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> > Hi,
>> >> >
>> >> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "engmstevens@" <engmstevens@> wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I think Ill check harbor freight online or some places locally in dallas.
>> >> >
>> >> > I use an 8" sheet metal sheer from Harbor Freight and I'm happy with the results. \ufffdIt cost around $125.
>> >> >
>> >> > BR,
>> >> > Dennis
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> > ------------------------------------
>> >> >
>> >> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>> >> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >
>>
>