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2012-02-02 by dave_donlan
Hi all I have read conflicting types of paper to use for the laser toner transfer method 1 Photo glossy for laser printer 2 as above but for inkjet 3 matt for inkjet can someone please shed some more light on this for me regards Dave
2012-02-02 by David
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dave_donlan" <dhd01@...> wrote: > > Hi all > I have read conflicting types of paper to use for the laser toner transfer method > 1 Photo glossy for laser printer > 2 as above but for inkjet > 3 matt for inkjet > > can someone please shed some more light on this for me > regards Dave > Dave, I have used glossy magazine pages, the poorer the quality paper the better!! The free catalogue type [thin]that comes in the post gives me the best results, [must be glossy though] quality magazines use a thicker paper and getting the image to transfer from the paper to the PCB tends to be a bit more difficult [for me that is!] and, removing the cheap glossy paper after transfering is also easier, just peels off after a couple of minutes soaking in warm water, any paper that doesn't peel off I just rub off with my finger! the image is pretty well stuck on the PCB so you can be quite rough without affecting the image. I have also used glossy photo paper, and the same principals apply, the thinner cheaper paper seems to work better, [again, for me that is]but with the same results from free magazine paper why buy photo paper? hope this help. David
2012-02-03 by DJ Delorie
IMHO, the qualities that make paper useful for TT are either: 1. They have a water-soluble coating on them, or 2. They are glossy so the toner just doesn't stick well #1 is met by cheap glossy magazines, which use a clay coating to get the glossy look. Pulsar TT paper and press-n-peel also have a coating on them. Thinner paper lets the water get in faster; thicker paper will need more soak time. #2 is how transparencies work. The plastic is so smooth that there's no mechanical bond between the toner and the film, so the bond with the copper is stronger. In either case, results improve when the copper is properly cleaned and scuffed (too smooth and the toner won't stick as well!).
2012-02-03 by bebx2000
For toner transfer, I have had good luck with HP Laser Presentation Paper, Glossy, 34lb, 95 Brightness, Q2546A. Baxter --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dave_donlan" <dhd01@...> wrote:
> > Hi all > I have read conflicting types of paper to use for the laser toner transfer method > 1 Photo glossy for laser printer > 2 as above but for inkjet > 3 matt for inkjet > > can someone please shed some more light on this for me > regards Dave >
2012-02-03 by dave_donlan
Cheers for the replies I do struggle with the concept of magazine paper as it is already printed on and my mind says it will come off onto the board so glossy paper it is Thanks again dave --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dave_donlan" <dhd01@...> wrote:
> > Hi all > I have read conflicting types of paper to use for the laser toner transfer method > 1 Photo glossy for laser printer > 2 as above but for inkjet > 3 matt for inkjet > > can someone please shed some more light on this for me > regards Dave >
2012-02-03 by Leon Heller
On 03/02/2012 06:58, dave_donlan wrote: > > Cheers for the replies > I do struggle with the concept of magazine paper as it is already > printed on and my mind says it will come off onto the board so glossy > paper it is When I tried magazine paper it worked OK. The print didn't make any difference. Leon -- Leon Heller G1HSM
2012-02-03 by Spencer W
Sports illustrated magazine works fantastic. That is what I use. Sent from my iPhone On Feb 3, 2012, at 8:06 AM, Leon Heller <leon355@...> wrote: > On 03/02/2012 06:58, dave_donlan wrote: > > > > Cheers for the replies > > I do struggle with the concept of magazine paper as it is already > > printed on and my mind says it will come off onto the board so glossy > > paper it is > > When I tried magazine paper it worked OK. The print didn't make any > difference. > > Leon > -- > Leon Heller > G1HSM > > > > TODAY(Beta) • Powered by Yahoo! > Deadly cold snap grips Europe > More than 200 deaths are blamed on a week of frigid weather in countries from Ukraine to Italy. > Privacy Policy [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2012-02-03 by David
Dave, The toner used in laser printers is a form of plastic, if you get a paper jam in your printer and have to remove the paper before it has passed through the fuser assembly you will find the image rubs off the paper, the fuser assembly "fuses" i.e. melts, the image on to the paper, for "toner transfer" methods we then re-melt the toner, that is why it gets transferred from the paper to the PCB, i.e. the heat melts the toner and bonds it to the PCB, the melted toner likes the copper clad better than the glossy paper, the ink in magazines is a chemical composition and does not melt and will not transfer. After transferring the image to the PCB its also a good idea to "seal" the image with TRF foil available from PCB "Fab in a box" or a cheaper alternative is toner transfer foil from craft shops, both do the same job, the reason for this is toner is quite porous and etchant will get into the minute spaces and possibly damage the tracks. [I've also read somewhere that putting the PCB under a bowl with a teaspoon of acetone next to it for 30 seconds to 1 minute does a similar job of "closing up" the toner particles, not tried this myself though!] Try a test on some scrap PCB you will see what I mean. David --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dave_donlan" <dhd01@...> wrote:
> > > Cheers for the replies > I do struggle with the concept of magazine paper as it is already printed on and my mind says it will come off onto the board so glossy paper it is > Thanks again dave > > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dave_donlan" <dhd01@> wrote: > > > > Hi all > > I have read conflicting types of paper to use for the laser toner transfer method > > 1 Photo glossy for laser printer > > 2 as above but for inkjet > > 3 matt for inkjet > > > > can someone please shed some more light on this for me > > regards Dave > > >
2012-02-03 by Banibrata Dutta
On Fri, Feb 3, 2012 at 7:36 PM, Leon Heller <leon355@...> wrote: > ** > > > On 03/02/2012 06:58, dave_donlan wrote: > > > > Cheers for the replies > > I do struggle with the concept of magazine paper as it is already > > printed on and my mind says it will come off onto the board so glossy > > paper it is > > When I tried magazine paper it worked OK. The print didn't make any > difference. > > indeed. the reason is magazine, or most form of bulk printing use dyes, which are soaked-up by paper and work by staining the cellulose. laser toner OTOH has tiny particles of plastic, which actually "sticks" to the paper surface, and is neither soaked-up by paper, nor stains it. the transfer of toner (from magazine / glossy paper, to copper surface) happens due to 2 reasons -- 1) gravity - the hot molten plastic falls from paper on copper, and sticks to copper. which is why transfer works best when paper is on top of copper, with heat being applied top-down, and not the other way around. 2) higher adhesion of plastic to copper (or other metal), than paper [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2012-02-03 by Harvey White
On Fri, 03 Feb 2012 06:58:58 -0000, you wrote: > >Cheers for the replies >I do struggle with the concept of magazine paper as it is already printed on and my mind says it will come off onto the board so glossy paper it is The ink soaks into the paper. The toner stays on top and bonds to the paper's surface. You soften the toner with the laminator, it gets sticky and glues the paper to the board. The ink does not soften. Soaking the paper weakens the fiber to fiber bond, so you can remove the paper easily. The toner stays "glued" to the board. Pulsar paper has a release layer that simplifies the process. Add water and it floats right off. Harvey
>Thanks again dave > > > > >--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dave_donlan" <dhd01@...> wrote: >> >> Hi all >> I have read conflicting types of paper to use for the laser toner transfer method >> 1 Photo glossy for laser printer >> 2 as above but for inkjet >> 3 matt for inkjet >> >> can someone please shed some more light on this for me >> regards Dave >> > > > > >------------------------------------ > >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > >
2012-02-03 by bigbazinga
Me, too. I will never use anything else. Fantastic stuff. I used to use glossy magazine covers, but even with the same magazine there was way too much variation over time, even from month to month. I learned that this is because magazine printers buy paper from whoever is cheapest in any given month of publication. --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bebx2000" <bebx2000@...> wrote:
> > For toner transfer, I have had good luck with HP Laser Presentation Paper, Glossy, 34lb, 95 Brightness, Q2546A. > > Baxter
2012-02-03 by Paul Mateer
you are correct...to much heat and pressure and the ink from the paper transfers as well! On Fri, Feb 3, 2012 at 10:07 AM, bigbazinga <bigbazinga@yahoo.com> wrote: > ** > > > Me, too. I will never use anything else. Fantastic stuff. > > I used to use glossy magazine covers, but even with the same magazine > there was way too much variation over time, even from month to month. I > learned that this is because magazine printers buy paper from whoever is > cheapest in any given month of publication. > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bebx2000" <bebx2000@...> wrote: > > > > For toner transfer, I have had good luck with HP Laser Presentation > Paper, Glossy, 34lb, 95 Brightness, Q2546A. > > > > Baxter > > > -- Paul Mateer, AA9GG Elan Engineering Corp. www.elanengr.com NAQCC 3123, SKCC 4628, FPQRP 2003 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2012-02-03 by bigbazinga
Looked up the product number on the package and, actually, I use HP CG988A, Presentation Paper, 32lb. Works perfectly every time down to 5 mil. traces. Floats off the board after a short soak in hot tap water and leaves behind almost no clay residue. --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bigbazinga" <bigbazinga@...> wrote:
> > Me, too. I will never use anything else. Fantastic stuff. > > I used to use glossy magazine covers, but even with the same magazine there was way too much variation over time, even from month to month. I learned that this is because magazine printers buy paper from whoever is cheapest in any given month of publication. > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bebx2000" <bebx2000@> wrote: > > > > For toner transfer, I have had good luck with HP Laser Presentation Paper, Glossy, 34lb, 95 Brightness, Q2546A. > > > > Baxter >
2012-02-03 by Donald H Locker
The print on the magazine pages is an oxygen curing ink that doesn't melt when heated. The toner from the laser printer is a pigmented plastic material that does melt with heat. Suggest you try a few magazine papers before going on the quest for the perfect paper. I quit trying to buy the perfect paper after trying magazine. ULine catalog, IIRC. Donald. -- *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dave_donlan" <dhd01@...> > To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Friday, February 3, 2012 1:58:58 AM > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner transfer paper type > Cheers for the replies > I do struggle with the concept of magazine paper as it is already > printed on and my mind says it will come off onto the board so glossy > paper it is > Thanks again dave > > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dave_donlan" <dhd01@...> wrote: > > > > Hi all > > I have read conflicting types of paper to use for the laser toner > > transfer method > > 1 Photo glossy for laser printer > > 2 as above but for inkjet > > 3 matt for inkjet > > > > can someone please shed some more light on this for me > > regards Dave > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and > Photos: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > >
2012-02-03 by freespamfree
I apologize if I am hijacking this post but it is in relation to toner transfer paper. How do you send your paper through the laser printer? I have a Brother that I open up the manual feed trays on the front and the back of the printer so it goes straight through the printer. The only type of paper that doesn't twist up is photo paper. Taping magazine paper to a sheet of regular printer paper ( I tape it on the top that enters the printer first and on the sides) but the printer still just crumples the magazine paper. --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dave_donlan" <dhd01@...> wrote:
> > Hi all > I have read conflicting types of paper to use for the laser toner transfer method > 1 Photo glossy for laser printer > 2 as above but for inkjet > 3 matt for inkjet > > can someone please shed some more light on this for me > regards Dave >
2012-02-04 by rlspell2000
Laser printer shipping label paper, the waxy backing, makes PERFECT TT paper. Same temp and pressure profile. Pull all the paper left on the backing away before printing on it, on the side you pulled the label off of, where you are printing the board, the other half can stay on. use your printer for something else too, as the waxy coating makes the rollers slick after awhile. use a couple drops of silcone to make them less slick when aligning double sided. use tape instead of staples, as they are slick and move at the slightest whim. the waxy coating comes off with the toner, where the toner transferred, so you get two for one. works better than "press-n-peel", better than magazine paper, much better than laser glossy or photo paper, and is essentially a waste product. I use this specific paper, but others should work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Round-Corner-Self-Adhesive-Shipping-Labels-8-5x5-5-/220761615465?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33666aec69 I pre-heat for two minute with iron and hot plate set to 180C, mainly so the sides stick together. I then trim the paper quickly and run it through a laminator twice for good pressure application. works PERFECT. -- Visit my online store for solar electronics: http://www.richardsfoundry.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ "Opportunity is missed by most girls because I come dressed in overalls and look like work." - Me, mis-quoting Thomas Edison --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bigbazinga" <bigbazinga@...> wrote:
> > Looked up the product number on the package and, actually, I use HP CG988A, Presentation Paper, 32lb. Works perfectly every time down to 5 mil. traces. Floats off the board after a short soak in hot tap water and leaves behind almost no clay residue. > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bigbazinga" <bigbazinga@> wrote: > > > > Me, too. I will never use anything else. Fantastic stuff. > > > > I used to use glossy magazine covers, but even with the same magazine there was way too much variation over time, even from month to month. I learned that this is because magazine printers buy paper from whoever is cheapest in any given month of publication. > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bebx2000" <bebx2000@> wrote: > > > > > > For toner transfer, I have had good luck with HP Laser Presentation Paper, Glossy, 34lb, 95 Brightness, Q2546A. > > > > > > Baxter > > >
2012-02-04 by Terry
So, if I understand your instructions, you peel the actual paper label off and use the "waxy" side of the backing for the TT? I don't understand "where you are printing the board, the other side can stay on" and "use a couple drops of silcone to make them less slick when aligning double sided", and I guess you mean that by "two for one" you mean that you get toner + waxy backing on the board after transfer. --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "rlspell2000" <rls@...> wrote:
> > Laser printer shipping label paper, the waxy backing, makes PERFECT TT paper. > > Same temp and pressure profile. > > Pull all the paper left on the backing away before printing on it, on the > side you pulled the label off of, where you are printing the board, the > other half can stay on. > > use your printer for something else too, as the waxy coating makes the > rollers slick after awhile. > > use a couple drops of silcone to make them less slick when aligning double > sided. use tape instead of staples, as they are slick and move at the > slightest whim. > > the waxy coating comes off with the toner, where the toner transferred, so > you get two for one. > > works better than "press-n-peel", better than magazine paper, much better > than laser glossy or photo paper, and is essentially a waste product. > > I use this specific paper, but others should work: > http://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Round-Corner-Self-Adhesive-Shipping-Labels-8-5x5-5-/220761615465?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33666aec69 > > I pre-heat for two minute with iron and hot plate set to 180C, mainly so > the sides stick together. I then trim the paper quickly and run it through > a laminator twice for good pressure application. > > works PERFECT. > -- > Visit my online store for solar electronics: http://www.richardsfoundry.com > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ > "Opportunity is missed by most girls because I come dressed in overalls > and look like work." - Me, mis-quoting Thomas Edison > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bigbazinga" <bigbazinga@> wrote: > > > > Looked up the product number on the package and, actually, I use HP CG988A, Presentation Paper, 32lb. Works perfectly every time down to 5 mil. traces. Floats off the board after a short soak in hot tap water and leaves behind almost no clay residue. > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bigbazinga" <bigbazinga@> wrote: > > > > > > Me, too. I will never use anything else. Fantastic stuff. > > > > > > I used to use glossy magazine covers, but even with the same magazine there was way too much variation over time, even from month to month. I learned that this is because magazine printers buy paper from whoever is cheapest in any given month of publication. > > > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bebx2000" <bebx2000@> wrote: > > > > > > > > For toner transfer, I have had good luck with HP Laser Presentation Paper, Glossy, 34lb, 95 Brightness, Q2546A. > > > > > > > > Baxter > > > > > >
2012-02-04 by bigbazinga
Exactly the opposite experience here. I had generally good experiences with magazine covers, sometimes perfect with the paper just floating off the board, but it was highly inconsistent even using different issues of the same magazine due to the variation in the paper used from month to month. Seeking a consistent solution, I looked in the database here, found the (obsolete HP part number) paper that was raved about there and went on a short quest to find its modern equivalent. The first probable HP equivalent I tried was definitely the right stuff: HP CG988A, Presentation Paper (Laser), 32lb. I've mentioned the likely European equivalent A4 sized part number in an earlier post here. --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Donald H Locker <dhlocker@...> wrote:
> I quit trying to buy the perfect paper after trying magazine. > ULine catalog, IIRC. > > Donald.
2012-02-04 by Donald H Locker
Thanks, Big. Perhaps on my next project I'll try the HP paper. Donald. -- *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "bigbazinga" <bigbazinga@...> > To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Saturday, February 4, 2012 12:17:17 PM > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner transfer paper type > Exactly the opposite experience here. I had generally good experiences > with magazine covers, sometimes perfect with the paper just floating > off the board, but it was highly inconsistent even using different > issues of the same magazine due to the variation in the paper used > from month to month. Seeking a consistent solution, I looked in the > database here, found the (obsolete HP part number) paper that was > raved about there and went on a short quest to find its modern > equivalent. The first probable HP equivalent I tried was definitely > the right stuff: HP CG988A, Presentation Paper (Laser), 32lb. I've > mentioned the likely European equivalent A4 sized part number in an > earlier post here. > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Donald H Locker <dhlocker@...> > wrote: > > I quit trying to buy the perfect paper after trying magazine. > > ULine catalog, IIRC. > > > > Donald. > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and > Photos: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > >
2012-02-06 by James Newton
I would be very interested in some further documentation of your technique. A few pictures of the steps would be invaluable. -- James newton at mass mind dot org --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "rlspell2000" <rls@...> wrote:
> > Laser printer shipping label paper, the waxy backing, makes PERFECT TT paper. > > Same temp and pressure profile. > > Pull all the paper left on the backing away before printing on it, on the > side you pulled the label off of, where you are printing the board, the > other half can stay on. > > use your printer for something else too, as the waxy coating makes the > rollers slick after awhile. > > use a couple drops of silcone to make them less slick when aligning double > sided. use tape instead of staples, as they are slick and move at the > slightest whim. > > the waxy coating comes off with the toner, where the toner transferred, so > you get two for one. > > works better than "press-n-peel", better than magazine paper, much better > than laser glossy or photo paper, and is essentially a waste product. > > I use this specific paper, but others should work: > http://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Round-Corner-Self-Adhesive-Shipping-Labels-8-5x5-5-/220761615465?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33666aec69 > > I pre-heat for two minute with iron and hot plate set to 180C, mainly so > the sides stick together. I then trim the paper quickly and run it through > a laminator twice for good pressure application. > > works PERFECT. > -- > Visit my online store for solar electronics: http://www.richardsfoundry.com > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ > "Opportunity is missed by most girls because I come dressed in overalls > and look like work." - Me, mis-quoting Thomas Edison > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bigbazinga" <bigbazinga@> wrote: > > > > Looked up the product number on the package and, actually, I use HP CG988A, Presentation Paper, 32lb. Works perfectly every time down to 5 mil. traces. Floats off the board after a short soak in hot tap water and leaves behind almost no clay residue. > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bigbazinga" <bigbazinga@> wrote: > > > > > > Me, too. I will never use anything else. Fantastic stuff. > > > > > > I used to use glossy magazine covers, but even with the same magazine there was way too much variation over time, even from month to month. I learned that this is because magazine printers buy paper from whoever is cheapest in any given month of publication. > > > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bebx2000" <bebx2000@> wrote: > > > > > > > > For toner transfer, I have had good luck with HP Laser Presentation Paper, Glossy, 34lb, 95 Brightness, Q2546A. > > > > > > > > Baxter > > > > > >
2012-02-07 by sheldon_mp_cooper
I've had plenty of label backings over time, but never tried it with TT because I was afraid of gumming up my printer. As far as label backings being "much better than laser glossy or photo paper," that would definitely describe my experience with those papers before finding HP CG988A. I tried many types of glossy and photo papers over time with poor results before I just settled on glossy magazine covers for a long time. Then I found CG988A. --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "James Newton" <jamesmichaelnewton@...> wrote:
> > I would be very interested in some further documentation of your technique. A few pictures of the steps would be invaluable. > > -- > James newton at mass mind dot org > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "rlspell2000" <rls@> wrote: > > > > Laser printer shipping label paper, the waxy backing, makes PERFECT TT paper. > > > > Same temp and pressure profile. > > > > Pull all the paper left on the backing away before printing on it, on the > > side you pulled the label off of, where you are printing the board, the > > other half can stay on. > > > > use your printer for something else too, as the waxy coating makes the > > rollers slick after awhile. > > > > use a couple drops of silcone to make them less slick when aligning double > > sided. use tape instead of staples, as they are slick and move at the > > slightest whim. > > > > the waxy coating comes off with the toner, where the toner transferred, so > > you get two for one. > > > > works better than "press-n-peel", better than magazine paper, much better > > than laser glossy or photo paper, and is essentially a waste product. > > > > I use this specific paper, but others should work: > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Round-Corner-Self-Adhesive-Shipping-Labels-8-5x5-5-/220761615465?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33666aec69 > > > > I pre-heat for two minute with iron and hot plate set to 180C, mainly so > > the sides stick together. I then trim the paper quickly and run it through > > a laminator twice for good pressure application. > > > > works PERFECT. > > -- > > Visit my online store for solar electronics: http://www.richardsfoundry.com > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > "Opportunity is missed by most girls because I come dressed in overalls > > and look like work." - Me, mis-quoting Thomas Edison > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bigbazinga" <bigbazinga@> wrote: > > > > > > Looked up the product number on the package and, actually, I use HP CG988A, Presentation Paper, 32lb. Works perfectly every time down to 5 mil. traces. Floats off the board after a short soak in hot tap water and leaves behind almost no clay residue. > > > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bigbazinga" <bigbazinga@> wrote: > > > > > > > > Me, too. I will never use anything else. Fantastic stuff. > > > > > > > > I used to use glossy magazine covers, but even with the same magazine there was way too much variation over time, even from month to month. I learned that this is because magazine printers buy paper from whoever is cheapest in any given month of publication. > > > > > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bebx2000" <bebx2000@> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > For toner transfer, I have had good luck with HP Laser Presentation Paper, Glossy, 34lb, 95 Brightness, Q2546A. > > > > > > > > > > Baxter > > > > > > > > > >
2012-02-08 by Nebojša Zdravković
I was recently blessed with fantastic cheap glossy photo paper, which peels off without soaking into water, leaving the toner and plastification layer on top of it on the PCB. Peeling action is so precise, that it even pulls the drilling holes out in majority of cases. The resistance of the both layers to acid and scratching is absolutely great, but it's still removable quite easily with acetone. Bad news is that it can be found in Europe only, in Metro/Makro shop chains. The brand is ARO: http://www.dooyoo.de/druckerzubehoer/aro-photo-inkjet-paper-glossy/ On Tue, Feb 7, 2012 at 10:15 PM, sheldon_mp_cooper <bigbazinga@...>wrote: > ** > > > I've had plenty of label backings over time, but never tried it with TT > because I was afraid of gumming up my printer. > > As far as label backings being "much better than laser glossy or photo > paper," that would definitely describe my experience with those papers > before finding HP CG988A. I tried many types of glossy and photo papers > over time with poor results before I just settled on glossy magazine covers > for a long time. Then I found CG988A. > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "James Newton" <jamesmichaelnewton@...> > wrote: > > > > I would be very interested in some further documentation of your > technique. A few pictures of the steps would be invaluable. > > > > -- > > James newton at mass mind dot org > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "rlspell2000" <rls@> wrote: > > > > > > Laser printer shipping label paper, the waxy backing, makes PERFECT TT > paper. > > > > > > Same temp and pressure profile. > > > > > > Pull all the paper left on the backing away before printing on it, on > the > > > side you pulled the label off of, where you are printing the board, the > > > other half can stay on. > > > > > > use your printer for something else too, as the waxy coating makes the > > > rollers slick after awhile. > > > > > > use a couple drops of silcone to make them less slick when aligning > double > > > sided. use tape instead of staples, as they are slick and move at the > > > slightest whim. > > > > > > the waxy coating comes off with the toner, where the toner > transferred, so > > > you get two for one. > > > > > > works better than "press-n-peel", better than magazine paper, much > better > > > than laser glossy or photo paper, and is essentially a waste product. > > > > > > I use this specific paper, but others should work: > > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Round-Corner-Self-Adhesive-Shipping-Labels-8-5x5-5-/220761615465?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33666aec69 > > > > > > I pre-heat for two minute with iron and hot plate set to 180C, mainly > so > > > the sides stick together. I then trim the paper quickly and run it > through > > > a laminator twice for good pressure application. > > > > > > works PERFECT. > > > -- > > > Visit my online store for solar electronics: > http://www.richardsfoundry.com > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > "Opportunity is missed by most girls because I come dressed in overalls > > > and look like work." - Me, mis-quoting Thomas Edison > > > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bigbazinga" <bigbazinga@> > wrote: > > > > > > > > Looked up the product number on the package and, actually, I use HP > CG988A, Presentation Paper, 32lb. Works perfectly every time down to 5 mil. > traces. Floats off the board after a short soak in hot tap water and leaves > behind almost no clay residue. > > > > > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bigbazinga" <bigbazinga@> > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Me, too. I will never use anything else. Fantastic stuff. > > > > > > > > > > I used to use glossy magazine covers, but even with the same > magazine there was way too much variation over time, even from month to > month. I learned that this is because magazine printers buy paper from > whoever is cheapest in any given month of publication. > > > > > > > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bebx2000" <bebx2000@> > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > For toner transfer, I have had good luck with HP Laser > Presentation Paper, Glossy, 34lb, 95 Brightness, Q2546A. > > > > > > > > > > > > Baxter > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2012-02-09 by sheldon_mp_cooper
I strongly encourage everyone who has found a great TT paper to enter details about it into this forum's database if they haven't already done so in order to make that resource as valuable as it can possibly be, thereby saving future forum members from having to perform keyword message searches and then weed through the results. --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Neboj¹a Zdravkoviæ <zdravke@...> wrote:
> > I was recently blessed with fantastic cheap glossy photo paper, which peels > off without soaking into water, leaving the toner and plastification layer > on top of it on the PCB. Peeling action is so precise, that it even pulls > the drilling holes out in majority of cases. The resistance of the both > layers to acid and scratching is absolutely great, but it's still removable > quite easily with acetone. Bad news is that it can be found in Europe only, > in Metro/Makro shop chains. The brand is ARO: > > http://www.dooyoo.de/druckerzubehoer/aro-photo-inkjet-paper-glossy/ > > On Tue, Feb 7, 2012 at 10:15 PM, sheldon_mp_cooper <bigbazinga@...>wrote: > > > ** > > > > > > I've had plenty of label backings over time, but never tried it with TT > > because I was afraid of gumming up my printer. > > > > As far as label backings being "much better than laser glossy or photo > > paper," that would definitely describe my experience with those papers > > before finding HP CG988A. I tried many types of glossy and photo papers > > over time with poor results before I just settled on glossy magazine covers > > for a long time. Then I found CG988A. > > > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "James Newton" <jamesmichaelnewton@> > > wrote: > > > > > > I would be very interested in some further documentation of your > > technique. A few pictures of the steps would be invaluable. > > > > > > -- > > > James newton at mass mind dot org > > > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "rlspell2000" <rls@> wrote: > > > > > > > > Laser printer shipping label paper, the waxy backing, makes PERFECT TT > > paper. > > > > > > > > Same temp and pressure profile. > > > > > > > > Pull all the paper left on the backing away before printing on it, on > > the > > > > side you pulled the label off of, where you are printing the board, the > > > > other half can stay on. > > > > > > > > use your printer for something else too, as the waxy coating makes the > > > > rollers slick after awhile. > > > > > > > > use a couple drops of silcone to make them less slick when aligning > > double > > > > sided. use tape instead of staples, as they are slick and move at the > > > > slightest whim. > > > > > > > > the waxy coating comes off with the toner, where the toner > > transferred, so > > > > you get two for one. > > > > > > > > works better than "press-n-peel", better than magazine paper, much > > better > > > > than laser glossy or photo paper, and is essentially a waste product. > > > > > > > > I use this specific paper, but others should work: > > > > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Round-Corner-Self-Adhesive-Shipping-Labels-8-5x5-5-/220761615465?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33666aec69 > > > > > > > > I pre-heat for two minute with iron and hot plate set to 180C, mainly > > so > > > > the sides stick together. I then trim the paper quickly and run it > > through > > > > a laminator twice for good pressure application. > > > > > > > > works PERFECT. > > > > -- > > > > Visit my online store for solar electronics: > > http://www.richardsfoundry.com > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > > "Opportunity is missed by most girls because I come dressed in overalls > > > > and look like work." - Me, mis-quoting Thomas Edison > > > > > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bigbazinga" <bigbazinga@> > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Looked up the product number on the package and, actually, I use HP > > CG988A, Presentation Paper, 32lb. Works perfectly every time down to 5 mil. > > traces. Floats off the board after a short soak in hot tap water and leaves > > behind almost no clay residue. > > > > > > > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bigbazinga" <bigbazinga@> > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Me, too. I will never use anything else. Fantastic stuff. > > > > > > > > > > > > I used to use glossy magazine covers, but even with the same > > magazine there was way too much variation over time, even from month to > > month. I learned that this is because magazine printers buy paper from > > whoever is cheapest in any given month of publication. > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bebx2000" <bebx2000@> > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > For toner transfer, I have had good luck with HP Laser > > Presentation Paper, Glossy, 34lb, 95 Brightness, Q2546A. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Baxter > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >