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UV light sources

UV light sources

2012-01-23 by Per Mattsson

Hi guys!

How can one measure the wavelengths, either a graph over the spectrum or certain wavelengths of a UV-source?
What unit would one use -  Watt, Joule?

I have a few colormeters but those are for human visible light intended for graphics industry. We use candela, cd, or lux for intensity there.

I've found this: http://www.oceanoptics.com/products/usb4000uvvis.asp
"Priced from $3,061"  Ouch ....

Next question, what wavelengths are of interest here - different wavelengths for different materials I suppose? 
300nm?

I'm currently curing UV-inked paper with two 160W disco Blacklights but I'm shure I could do it more efficient with other sources. 
The paper let the ink go deep into the material so the UV-lights/leds in the printers does not really let the ink solidify.




/Per



Per Mattsson - per@permattsson.se - +46706524567

Re: UV light sources

2012-01-26 by Rich Osman

Spectrum should be pretty easy with diffraction through a prism.  It
doesn't seem that you need enormous accuracy or precision.

My concern is measuring power with some degree of accuracy to predict
exposure times.

On 1/23/2012 1:41 AM, Per Mattsson wrote:
>  
>
> Hi guys!
>
> How can one measure the wavelengths, either a graph over the spectrum
> or certain wavelengths of a UV-source?
> What unit would one use - Watt, Joule?
>
> I have a few colormeters but those are for human visible light
> intended for graphics industry. We use candela, cd, or lux for
> intensity there.
>
> I've found this: http://www.oceanoptics.com/products/usb4000uvvis.asp
> "Priced from $3,061" Ouch ....
>
> Next question, what wavelengths are of interest here - different
> wavelengths for different materials I suppose?
> 300nm?
>
> I'm currently curing UV-inked paper with two 160W disco Blacklights
> but I'm shure I could do it more efficient with other sources.
> The paper let the ink go deep into the material so the UV-lights/leds
> in the printers does not really let the ink solidify.
>
> /Per
>
> Per Mattsson - per@... <mailto:per%40permattsson.se> -
> +46706524567
>
> 


-- 
mailto:lists@...     http://www.n1oz.net       ARS: N1OZ
Rich Osman;  POB 93167; Southlake, TX 76092 (Near DFW Airport) 






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] UV light sources

2012-01-26 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg

Per

UV intensity is measured in Watts per Steradian, see:

<http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=vu7OU2EWKPoC&pg=PA41&lpg=PA41&dq=steradian+UV&source=bl&ots=pcRnx7NrDI&sig=9v-0af4GfWVN2e-AoUxkJrYQlzQ&hl=en&sa=X&ei=xm4hT9mcNc3Msgb_kMGDCA&sqi=2&ved=0CCEQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=steradian%20UV&f=false>


Malcolm
 
I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!


________________________________
Show quoted textHide quoted text
 From: Per Mattsson <per@permattsson.se>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
Cc: Per Mattsson <per@permattsson.se> 
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 7:41 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] UV light sources
 

  
Hi guys!

How can one measure the wavelengths, either a graph over the spectrum or certain wavelengths of a UV-source?
What unit would one use -  Watt, Joule?

I have a few colormeters but those are for human visible light intended for graphics industry. We use candela, cd, or lux for intensity there.

I've found this: http://www.oceanoptics.com/products/usb4000uvvis.asp
"Priced from $3,061"  Ouch ....

Next question, what wavelengths are of interest here - different wavelengths for different materials I suppose? 
300nm?

I'm currently curing UV-inked paper with two 160W disco Blacklights but I'm shure I could do it more efficient with other sources. 
The paper let the ink go deep into the material so the UV-lights/leds in the printers does not really let the ink solidify.

/Per

Per Mattsson - per@... - +46706524567
 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] UV light sources

2012-01-26 by Rich Osman

This is true for a point source, but most sheet exposures are defined in
watts per square centimeter or something similar. 

I interpreted Per's question to be about spectral measurements - in
terms of power at a particular wavelength. He's concerned about exposing
and curing UV sensitive media and making sure he has adequate exposure.

On 1/26/2012 9:19 AM, Malcolm Parker-Lisberg wrote:
>  
>
> Per
>
> UV intensity is measured in Watts per Steradian, see:
>
> <http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=vu7OU2EWKPoC&pg=PA41&lpg=PA41&dq=steradian+UV&source=bl&ots=pcRnx7NrDI&sig=9v-0af4GfWVN2e-AoUxkJrYQlzQ&hl=en&sa=X&ei=xm4hT9mcNc3Msgb_kMGDCA&sqi=2&ved=0CCEQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=steradian%20UV&f=false
> <http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=vu7OU2EWKPoC&pg=PA41&lpg=PA41&dq=steradian+UV&source=bl&ots=pcRnx7NrDI&sig=9v-0af4GfWVN2e-AoUxkJrYQlzQ&hl=en&sa=X&ei=xm4hT9mcNc3Msgb_kMGDCA&sqi=2&ved=0CCEQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=steradian%20UV&f=false>>
>
> Malcolm
>  
> I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
>
> ________________________________
> From: Per Mattsson <per@... <mailto:per%40permattsson.se>>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> Cc: Per Mattsson <per@... <mailto:per%40permattsson.se>>
> Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 7:41 AM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] UV light sources
>
>
>  
> Hi guys!
>
> How can one measure the wavelengths, either a graph over the spectrum
> or certain wavelengths of a UV-source?
> What unit would one use - Watt, Joule?
>
> I have a few colormeters but those are for human visible light
> intended for graphics industry. We use candela, cd, or lux for
> intensity there.
>
> I've found this: http://www.oceanoptics.com/products/usb4000uvvis.asp
> "Priced from $3,061" Ouch ....
>
> Next question, what wavelengths are of interest here - different
> wavelengths for different materials I suppose?
> 300nm?
>
> I'm currently curing UV-inked paper with two 160W disco Blacklights
> but I'm shure I could do it more efficient with other sources.
> The paper let the ink go deep into the material so the UV-lights/leds
> in the printers does not really let the ink solidify.
>
> /Per
>
> Per Mattsson - per@... <mailto:per%40permattsson.se> -
> +46706524567
>
-- 
mailto:lists@...     http://www.n1oz.net       ARS: N1OZ
Rich Osman;  POB 93167; Southlake, TX 76092 (Near DFW Airport) 






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] UV light sources

2012-01-26 by Boman33

Per,

OceanOptics is the low-cost supplier.  I can get you other companies if you
want to spend more money..

For spectral output you typically would measure radiation vs. wavelength
band so you end up with microwatt per nanometer type numbers.  Then you need
to define the area of the sensor for the measurement.  You might be able to
find a used spectrometer to get proper readings.

Good luck!

Bertho
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Per Mattsson
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 02:42
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Cc: Per Mattsson
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] UV light sources

 

  

Hi guys!

How can one measure the wavelengths, either a graph over the spectrum or
certain wavelengths of a UV-source?
What unit would one use - Watt, Joule?

I have a few colormeters but those are for human visible light intended for
graphics industry. We use candela, cd, or lux for intensity there.

I've found this: http://www.oceanoptics.com/products/usb4000uvvis.asp
"Priced from $3,061" Ouch ....

Next question, what wavelengths are of interest here - different wavelengths
for different materials I suppose? 
300nm?

I'm currently curing UV-inked paper with two 160W disco Blacklights but I'm
shure I could do it more efficient with other sources. 
The paper let the ink go deep into the material so the UV-lights/leds in the
printers does not really let the ink solidify.

/Per

Per Mattsson - per@... <mailto:per%40permattsson.se>  -
+46706524567





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: UV light sources

2012-01-26 by David

Hello,
UV light wavelength is measured in nanometers, Nm, i.e. one billionth of one meter, the amplitude [intensity] is measured in milliwatts per square centimeter per second, or millijoules  per square centimeter[i.e. energy received per square cm per second]
The UV spectrum is between 100 and 400 Nm it is broken down into 3 sections UV-A UV-B and UV-C, UV-C is what we use to expose photosensetive materials, [the closer to 400 the better] UV-A and UV-B are used in medical and germicidal applications [very dangerous] UV-C is also dangerous especially regarding the eyes, best not to look at the light source for too long!

400 Nm is also getting very close to the visible light spectrum.

hope this helps


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Per Mattsson <per@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> Hi guys!
> 
> How can one measure the wavelengths, either a graph over the spectrum or certain wavelengths of a UV-source?
> What unit would one use -  Watt, Joule?
> 
> I have a few colormeters but those are for human visible light intended for graphics industry. We use candela, cd, or lux for intensity there.
> 
> I've found this: http://www.oceanoptics.com/products/usb4000uvvis.asp
> "Priced from $3,061"  Ouch ....
> 
> Next question, what wavelengths are of interest here - different wavelengths for different materials I suppose? 
> 300nm?
> 
> I'm currently curing UV-inked paper with two 160W disco Blacklights but I'm shure I could do it more efficient with other sources. 
> The paper let the ink go deep into the material so the UV-lights/leds in the printers does not really let the ink solidify.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /Per
> 
> 
> 
> Per Mattsson - per@... - +46706524567
>

Re: UV light sources

2012-01-26 by David

Sorry, forgot one other measurement [for LEDs]:

Luminous intensity: Brightness of the LED at a given current:
mcd = millicandela 

Visible Blue sits at around 430 Nm



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> Per,
> 
> OceanOptics is the low-cost supplier.  I can get you other companies if you
> want to spend more money..
> 
> For spectral output you typically would measure radiation vs. wavelength
> band so you end up with microwatt per nanometer type numbers.  Then you need
> to define the area of the sensor for the measurement.  You might be able to
> find a used spectrometer to get proper readings.
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> Bertho
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Per Mattsson
> Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 02:42
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Cc: Per Mattsson
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] UV light sources
> 
>  
> 
>   
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> How can one measure the wavelengths, either a graph over the spectrum or
> certain wavelengths of a UV-source?
> What unit would one use - Watt, Joule?
> 
> I have a few colormeters but those are for human visible light intended for
> graphics industry. We use candela, cd, or lux for intensity there.
> 
> I've found this: http://www.oceanoptics.com/products/usb4000uvvis.asp
> "Priced from $3,061" Ouch ....
> 
> Next question, what wavelengths are of interest here - different wavelengths
> for different materials I suppose? 
> 300nm?
> 
> I'm currently curing UV-inked paper with two 160W disco Blacklights but I'm
> shure I could do it more efficient with other sources. 
> The paper let the ink go deep into the material so the UV-lights/leds in the
> printers does not really let the ink solidify.
> 
> /Per
> 
> Per Mattsson - per@... <mailto:per%40permattsson.se>  -
> +46706524567
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: UV light sources

2012-01-26 by Leon Heller

On 26/01/2012 15:01, Rich Osman wrote:
> Spectrum should be pretty easy with diffraction through a prism. It
> doesn't seem that you need enormous accuracy or precision.
>
> My concern is measuring power with some degree of accuracy to predict
> exposure times.


Just use a test strip as used to be done with photographic enlargers.

Leon
-- 
Leon Heller
G1HSM

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] UV light sources

2012-01-26 by DJ Delorie

Per Mattsson <per@...> writes:

> Next question, what wavelengths are of interest here - different
> wavelengths for different materials I suppose?  300nm?

For UV etch resist films, something around 390 nm is normal, but each
film has its own specs.  Think&Tinker film, for example specs "350-420
nm".  I suspect anything in the 380-400 nm range, common for UV LEDs,
would work.

As for exposure, the math only gets you part way - you should calibrate
the film against your actual setup using something like a step
transmission wedge:  http://www.stouffer.net/TransPage.htm

Expose your film through the wedge, and based on which step "holds" you
adjust your exposure time accordingly.

http://www.thinktink.com/stack/volumes/volvi/filmimag.htm#Calibration

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] UV light sources

2012-01-27 by Per Mattsson

Very good- thanks!


26 jan 2012 kl. 23.27 skrev DJ Delorie:

> As for exposure, the math only gets you part way - you should calibrate
> the film against your actual setup using something like a step
> transmission wedge: http://www.stouffer.net/TransPage.htm

Per Mattsson - per@... - 0706524567





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] UV light sources

2012-01-27 by Per Mattsson

Thanks everyone for ideas and replies!


/Per



> 

Per Mattsson - per@... - 0706524567





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: UV light sources

2012-01-27 by bebx2000

What you want is a UV radiometer or UV light meter. The measurement is usually mw/cm*2. The required exposure of the photoresist is usually given in mJoules/cm**2 (1 mJoule = 1 mW for 1 second.). So just take take a measurement at the surface of your PCB divide it into the required mJoules and you have the required exposure time in seconds. Each brand of resist has a different energy requirement. Dig around on the Dupont Riston site for typical values. Dupont generally recommends 365 nm in the spectrum as the sweet spot. 

I have the General Tool UV513AB meter

http://www.amazon.com/General-UV513AB-Digital-Ultraviolet-Measurement/dp/B002JOR0JO/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

It has NIST traceable certified calibration at 365 nm and really great value for the money. It measures UVA and UVB (280 - 400 nm). You could also make your own using a blue or an UV led as a detector. When used as a detector, the response is usually of the order of 25 to 30 nm less than the the emitted wavelength with a bandwith of about 50 nm. Therefore, a 400 nm UV led should detect pretty close to 370 nm.

Forrest Mims has a design and for the general idea see,

https://www.cs.drexel.edu/~dbrooks/globe/construction/construction_V3.htm

http://laser.physics.sunysb.edu/~tanya/report2/

http://www.patarnott.com/atms360/sunphotometer.htm

The problem with DIY meters is calibration which is why I just bought the cheapest one that I could find.

Baxter

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Per Mattsson <per@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> Hi guys!
> 
> How can one measure the wavelengths, either a graph over the spectrum or certain wavelengths of a UV-source?
> What unit would one use -  Watt, Joule?

Re: UV light sources

2012-01-27 by Tom

Please watch this youtube video if you are interested in UV light sources.

I have a Youtube video on the "Overview of the Kinsten PCB UV Exposure Box" 

http://youtu.be/j_5iuFjYY5g

I have many youtube videos on PCBs and microcontrollers etc. 
Please subscribe to the youtube channel if you like.

Tom

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bebx2000" <bebx2000@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> What you want is a UV radiometer or UV light meter. The measurement is usually mw/cm*2. The required exposure of the photoresist is usually given in mJoules/cm**2 (1 mJoule = 1 mW for 1 second.). So just take take a measurement at the surface of your PCB divide it into the required mJoules and you have the required exposure time in seconds. Each brand of resist has a different energy requirement. Dig around on the Dupont Riston site for typical values. Dupont generally recommends 365 nm in the spectrum as the sweet spot. 
> 
> I have the General Tool UV513AB meter
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/General-UV513AB-Digital-Ultraviolet-Measurement/dp/B002JOR0JO/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
> 
> It has NIST traceable certified calibration at 365 nm and really great value for the money. It measures UVA and UVB (280 - 400 nm). You could also make your own using a blue or an UV led as a detector. When used as a detector, the response is usually of the order of 25 to 30 nm less than the the emitted wavelength with a bandwith of about 50 nm. Therefore, a 400 nm UV led should detect pretty close to 370 nm.
> 
> Forrest Mims has a design and for the general idea see,
> 
> https://www.cs.drexel.edu/~dbrooks/globe/construction/construction_V3.htm
> 
> http://laser.physics.sunysb.edu/~tanya/report2/
> 
> http://www.patarnott.com/atms360/sunphotometer.htm
> 
> The problem with DIY meters is calibration which is why I just bought the cheapest one that I could find.
> 
> Baxter
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Per Mattsson <per@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi guys!
> > 
> > How can one measure the wavelengths, either a graph over the spectrum or certain wavelengths of a UV-source?
> > What unit would one use -  Watt, Joule?
>

Re: UV light sources

2012-01-28 by Ray

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Tom" <judsquare@...> wrote:
>
> Please watch this youtube video if you are interested in UV light sources.
> 
> I have a Youtube video on the "Overview of the Kinsten PCB UV Exposure Box" 
> 

I have used the FL15BL tubes for over 20 years in a homemade wooden box that uses 4 bulbs in a 16 inch wide space. I have a homemade exposure frame (plexiglass and wood) that I use with it. The board and negative sit 5 inches below the bulbs. Exposure time for my dry film coated boards is 4-1/2 minutes with excellent results.

Re: UV light sources

2012-01-28 by Dave Sage

Lots of high tech ideas flying around here but if you really NEED to know
why not just go on the website for the maker of the lamp and look it up OR
ask them for the specs. Regardless, you're going to have to make bracket
exposures anyway to determine the best distance and time, so forget the
theory and opt for the practical and "Get'er done".

 

Sage

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: UV light sources

2012-01-28 by Rich Osman

Rich Osman;  POB 93167; Southlake, TX 76092



On Jan 28, 2012, at 10:54 AM, "Dave Sage" <davesage12@...> wrote:

> Lots of high tech ideas flying around here but if you really NEED to know
> why not just go on the website for the maker of the lamp and look it up OR
> ask them for the specs.
> 
Mostly because I'm using unmarked used stuff AND because I want to get a better idea how uniform illumination I'm getting.
> Regardless, you're going to have to make bracket
> exposures anyway to determine the best distance and time, so forget the
> theory and opt for the practical and "Get'er done".
> 
Yeah, but I'd like to know I'm in the ballpark.
> Sage
> 
> 
> 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: UV light sources

2012-01-29 by Donald H Locker

Many years ago, when I was doing my own photography using wet chemistry, I simply made a test exposure using an opaque card to expose the paper in steps. This is similar to the test wedge with graduated density but much handier and cheaper.

Cover the entire area but a small portion to be exposed with the opaque card. Turn on the light source and then, at intervals, draw the card away so as to expose more of the surface. If you have some idea how much exposure might be required, you can expose the first area for the minimum expected time and space your additional exposure so that the last one is the correct distance "in time" from the first.

Example - I suspect that the correct exposure for my 4x6 circuit board is between two and eight minutes.  (120 to 480 sec).  360 sec difference between min and max, and I think I can accurately pull the card out the long way in 1/2 inch steps (12 total).  Each step will be 30 sec long.  I should be able to see (when development of the resist is complete) which time was best within a 30 second resolution.  So I expose for 30 sec with 1/2" of board exposed, then pull the card back 1/2" every 30 sec thereafter, and turn the exposure lamp off 120 sec after the 11th step.

If you have no idea what exposure is reasonable, go for 30 sec to 12.5 min in 60 sec increments or even 30 sec to 24.5 min in 120 sec increments (remember to set your stop watch to repeat and beep; it's easy to be distracted during longer exposure tests. :)

Strip the resist and narrow the time window if necessary, or use the one that looks best to you.

HTH,
Donald.
--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
()  no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\  ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org>

----- Original Message -----
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> From: "Rich Osman" <lists@...>
> To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2012 4:18:41 PM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: UV light sources
> Rich Osman; POB 93167; Southlake, TX 76092
> 
> 
> 
> On Jan 28, 2012, at 10:54 AM, "Dave Sage" <davesage12@...>
> wrote:
> 
> > Lots of high tech ideas flying around here but if you really NEED to
> > know
> > why not just go on the website for the maker of the lamp and look it
> > up OR
> > ask them for the specs.
> >
> Mostly because I'm using unmarked used stuff AND because I want to get
> a better idea how uniform illumination I'm getting.
> > Regardless, you're going to have to make bracket
> > exposures anyway to determine the best distance and time, so forget
> > the
> > theory and opt for the practical and "Get'er done".
> >
> Yeah, but I'd like to know I'm in the ballpark.
> > Sage
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>

Re: UV light sources

2012-01-29 by psykhon@yahoo.com

This is what i do, you just do it once and as long as nothing change, you hardly need to repeat.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Donald H Locker <dhlocker@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> Many years ago, when I was doing my own photography using wet chemistry, I simply made a test exposure using an opaque card to expose the paper in steps. This is similar to the test wedge with graduated density but much handier and cheaper.
> 
> Cover the entire area but a small portion to be exposed with the opaque card. Turn on the light source and then, at intervals, draw the card away so as to expose more of the surface. If you have some idea how much exposure might be required, you can expose the first area for the minimum expected time and space your additional exposure so that the last one is the correct distance "in time" from the first.
> 
> Example - I suspect that the correct exposure for my 4x6 circuit board is between two and eight minutes.  (120 to 480 sec).  360 sec difference between min and max, and I think I can accurately pull the card out the long way in 1/2 inch steps (12 total).  Each step will be 30 sec long.  I should be able to see (when development of the resist is complete) which time was best within a 30 second resolution.  So I expose for 30 sec with 1/2" of board exposed, then pull the card back 1/2" every 30 sec thereafter, and turn the exposure lamp off 120 sec after the 11th step.
> 
> If you have no idea what exposure is reasonable, go for 30 sec to 12.5 min in 60 sec increments or even 30 sec to 24.5 min in 120 sec increments (remember to set your stop watch to repeat and beep; it's easy to be distracted during longer exposure tests. :)
> 
> Strip the resist and narrow the time window if necessary, or use the one that looks best to you.
> 
> HTH,
> Donald.
> --
> *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
> ()  no proprietary attachments; no html mail
> /\  ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org>
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Rich Osman" <lists@...>
> > To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2012 4:18:41 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: UV light sources
> > Rich Osman; POB 93167; Southlake, TX 76092
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > On Jan 28, 2012, at 10:54 AM, "Dave Sage" <davesage12@...>
> > wrote:
> > 
> > > Lots of high tech ideas flying around here but if you really NEED to
> > > know
> > > why not just go on the website for the maker of the lamp and look it
> > > up OR
> > > ask them for the specs.
> > >
> > Mostly because I'm using unmarked used stuff AND because I want to get
> > a better idea how uniform illumination I'm getting.
> > > Regardless, you're going to have to make bracket
> > > exposures anyway to determine the best distance and time, so forget
> > > the
> > > theory and opt for the practical and "Get'er done".
> > >
> > Yeah, but I'd like to know I'm in the ballpark.
> > > Sage
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ------------------------------------
> > 
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> > Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> > 
> > 
> >
>

Move to quarantaine

This moves the raw source file on disk only. The archive index is not changed automatically, so you still need to run a manual refresh afterward.