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2011-12-16 by Ray
I just purchased a Scotch TL901 laminator and was wondering if anyone has any experience using it to transfer images to copper clad. If so, have you used .062 or .032 material? The enclosed documentation says maximum thickness of material that can be used is .010. I plan to open the unit up later today and see what is involved with increasing the spacing between the rollers to allow the pcb material to go through the rollers. Ray
2011-12-16 by Benjamin Blumer
I'm not at home for the next few months, so I can't check my model number. But -- is that the Scotch laminator that Walmart carries? If so, I've used it with .062 with good results. I let it heat up for a good while (half an hour?), kind of pinched the paper to the copper clad and ran it through. After the first run through, the paper was stuck to the copper. I gave it about 10 more passes through the machine, flipping it over after 5 passes. Sent from my iPad On 2011-12-16, at 2:48 PM, Ray <rcbuckiii@...> wrote: I just purchased a Scotch TL901 laminator and was wondering if anyone has any experience using it to transfer images to copper clad. If so, have you used .062 or .032 material? The enclosed documentation says maximum thickness of material that can be used is .010. I plan to open the unit up later today and see what is involved with increasing the spacing between the rollers to allow the pcb material to go through the rollers. Ray [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-12-16 by Ray
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Benjamin Blumer <b3nzilla@...> wrote: > > I'm not at home for the next few months, so I can't check my model number. > But -- is that the Scotch laminator that Walmart carries? If so, I've used > it with .062 with good results. I let it heat up for a good while (half an > hour?), kind of pinched the paper to the copper clad and ran it through. > After the first run through, the paper was stuck to the copper. I gave it > about 10 more passes through the machine, flipping it over after 5 passes. > > Sent from my iPad Benjamin, Yes, that is the one. Sounds like it will work. I'll try running a 6x6 board with paper through and see what the results are. If it groans a lot I will open it up to see what is involved with increasing roller spacing. Thanks for the reply. Ray
2011-12-16 by randy_hunt960
I can run .062 stock through my '901 with no modifications. I haven't tried to see how the temp needs to be set yet though. Randy --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Ray" <rcbuckiii@...> wrote:
> > I just purchased a Scotch TL901 laminator and was wondering if anyone has any experience using it to transfer images to copper clad. If so, have you used .062 or .032 material? The enclosed documentation says maximum thickness of material that can be used is .010. > > I plan to open the unit up later today and see what is involved with increasing the spacing between the rollers to allow the pcb material to go through the rollers. > > Ray >
2011-12-16 by Ray
Thanks for the info Randy. Based on Benjamin's and your comments, I just ran a .062 board with folded over paper through the laminator. It didn't complain at all. That tells me I will be able to laminate the dry film to the board since it is thinner than the paper I was using. The dry film doesn't require much heat to adhere so I'll test to see how many passes are needed. Ray --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "randy_hunt960" <randy_hunt960@...> wrote:
> > I can run .062 stock through my '901 with no modifications. I haven't tried to see how the temp needs to be set yet though. > > Randy
2011-12-16 by randy_hunt960
Could you provide more info on the "Dry Film"? thanks, Randy --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Ray" <rcbuckiii@...> wrote:
> > > > Thanks for the info Randy. Based on Benjamin's and your comments, I just ran a .062 board with folded over paper through the laminator. It didn't complain at all. That tells me I will be able to laminate the dry film to the board since it is thinner than the paper I was using. The dry film doesn't require much heat to adhere so I'll test to see how many passes are needed. > > Ray > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "randy_hunt960" <randy_hunt960@> wrote: > > > > I can run .062 stock through my '901 with no modifications. I haven't tried to see how the temp needs to be set yet though. > > > > Randy >
2011-12-16 by Ray
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "randy_hunt960" <randy_hunt960@...> wrote: > > Could you provide more info on the "Dry Film"? > > thanks, > Randy Randy, Dry Film is a Negative acting film that is applied to the copper clad. When you print the image on clear film you have to print it in reverse. The areas that are clear is what remains on the board when you develop it. The film is a fairly thick (1-2 mils) plastic like coating so it is much less likely to break down in the etching process. Lines down to 8 mils are a piece of cake. Dry film is what all the professional PCB manufacturers use to make boards. You develop it with Sodium Carbonate. Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda works well. These links will give you an idea of how it works: http://www.trianglecircuits.com/imaging-process.html http://members.optusnet.com.au/eseychell/PCB/photoresist/Wet_Lamination_of_Photoresist_for_Hobbyists.pdf http://www.voodooengineering.com/index.php/pcbprocess/preparation/77-dry-film-lamination The 2nd link shows how to apply it without heat but I've never seen it done that way. I used it for years back in the late 80's early 90's then switched to using presensitized positive boards from Circuit Specialists. Now I'm switching back to the negative process. It requires less of a darkroom environment, the film is more rugged, and the cost is about half of the presensitized positive boards. According to the manufacturer the shelf life is 6 months for the film. But I have used film that is over a year old with no problems. I purchased the dry film from Larry on this forum. See post #28833 for details and contact him if you are interested in trying the process. His price is better than the prices from China on Ebay and he is very helpful. Ray
2011-12-17 by randy_hunt960
Thank you for the info. . . Randy --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Ray" <rcbuckiii@...> wrote:
> > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "randy_hunt960" <randy_hunt960@> wrote: > > > > Could you provide more info on the "Dry Film"? > > > > thanks, > > Randy > > Randy, > > Dry Film is a Negative acting film that is applied to the copper clad. When you print the image on clear film you have to print it in reverse. The areas that are clear is what remains on the board when you develop it. > > The film is a fairly thick (1-2 mils) plastic like coating so it is much less likely to break down in the etching process. Lines down to 8 mils are a piece of cake. Dry film is what all the professional PCB manufacturers use to make boards. You develop it with Sodium Carbonate. Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda works well. > > These links will give you an idea of how it works: > http://www.trianglecircuits.com/imaging-process.html > http://members.optusnet.com.au/eseychell/PCB/photoresist/Wet_Lamination_of_Photoresist_for_Hobbyists.pdf > http://www.voodooengineering.com/index.php/pcbprocess/preparation/77-dry-film-lamination > > The 2nd link shows how to apply it without heat but I've never seen it done that way. > > I used it for years back in the late 80's early 90's then switched to using presensitized positive boards from Circuit Specialists. Now I'm switching back to the negative process. It requires less of a darkroom environment, the film is more rugged, and the cost is about half of the presensitized positive boards. According to the manufacturer the shelf life is 6 months for the film. But I have used film that is over a year old with no problems. > > I purchased the dry film from Larry on this forum. See post #28833 for details and contact him if you are interested in trying the process. His price is better than the prices from China on Ebay and he is very helpful. > > Ray >
2011-12-17 by MIKE DURKIN
Practically makes me abandon my attempt to direct resist .... Mike KC7NOA To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
From: randy_hunt960@...
Date: Sat, 17 Dec 2011 19:28:10 +0000
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Anyone use a Scotch TL901 Laminator?
Thank you for the info. . .
Randy
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Ray" <rcbuckiii@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@...m, "randy_hunt960" <randy_hunt960@> wrote:
> >
> > Could you provide more info on the "Dry Film"?
> >
> > thanks,
> > Randy
>
> Randy,
>
> Dry Film is a Negative acting film that is applied to the copper clad. When you print the image on clear film you have to print it in reverse. The areas that are clear is what remains on the board when you develop it.
>
> The film is a fairly thick (1-2 mils) plastic like coating so it is much less likely to break down in the etching process. Lines down to 8 mils are a piece of cake. Dry film is what all the professional PCB manufacturers use to make boards. You develop it with Sodium Carbonate. Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda works well.
>
> These links will give you an idea of how it works:
> http://www.trianglecircuits.com/imaging-process.html
> http://members.optusnet.com.au/eseychell/PCB/photoresist/Wet_Lamination_of_Photoresist_for_Hobbyists.pdf
> http://www.voodooengineering.com/index.php/pcbprocess/preparation/77-dry-film-lamination
>
> The 2nd link shows how to apply it without heat but I've never seen it done that way.
>
> I used it for years back in the late 80's early 90's then switched to using presensitized positive boards from Circuit Specialists. Now I'm switching back to the negative process. It requires less of a darkroom environment, the film is more rugged, and the cost is about half of the presensitized positive boards. According to the manufacturer the shelf life is 6 months for the film. But I have used film that is over a year old with no problems.
>
> I purchased the dry film from Larry on this forum. See post #28833 for details and contact him if you are interested in trying the process. His price is better than the prices from China on Ebay and he is very helpful.
>
> Ray
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]