Homebrew PCBs

Just tried a Harbor Freight 9" laminator (#92499) costing $28. The box it came in says it reaches 300 degrees. After a 0.032" board was run through a few times,it was very hot to the touch. Shows promise. I've posted a photo of my first try in the Harbor Freight Laminator file. The board outline is 10 mil in width. Looks like it may be a viable, inexpensive laminator. 

Printer used: Samsung ML-2525W

Paper used: Staples Color Laser Paper #633215.

I'm going to try this again when my Pulsar TTP arrives. Pulsar is the paper I usually use.

that Laminator is currently on sale 19.99
http://widgets.harborfreight.com/wswidgets/common/displayCoupon.do?week=4211&campaign=b&page=coupon14.html&single=true&cust=00138550794&keycode=1003

On Thu, Oct 20, 2011 at 6:08 PM, leeleduc <leeleduc@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Just tried a Harbor Freight 9" laminator (#92499) costing $28. The box it
> came in says it reaches 300 degrees. After a 0.032" board was run through a
> few times,it was very hot to the touch. Shows promise. I've posted a photo
> of my first try in the Harbor Freight Laminator file. The board outline is
> 10 mil in width. Looks like it may be a viable, inexpensive laminator.
>
> Printer used: Samsung ML-2525W
>
> Paper used: Staples Color Laser Paper #633215.
>
> I'm going to try this again when my Pulsar TTP arrives. Pulsar is the paper
> I usually use.
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "leeleduc" <leeleduc@...> wrote:
>
> Just tried a Harbor Freight 9" laminator (#92499) costing $28. The box it came in says it reaches 300 degrees. After a 0.032" board was run through a few times,it was very hot to the touch. Shows promise. I've posted a photo of my first try in the Harbor Freight Laminator file. The board outline is 10 mil in width. Looks like it may be a viable, inexpensive laminator. 
> 
> Printer used: Samsung ML-2525W
> 
> Paper used: Staples Color Laser Paper #633215.
> 
> I'm going to try this again when my Pulsar TTP arrives. Pulsar is the paper I usually use.
>
For what it's worth, I just got an HF coupon for this laminator for $19.99.  For that price, I had to try it.  I'll light it off tomorrow for a try.  It's also cheap enough to take it apart and see if it can be worked over to accept thicker boards - I prefer to work with .062 stock.  I can send copies of the coupon, if anyone else is interested.

Norm
W6NIM

This laminator feeds faster than my GBC. It runs at 12 inches per minute. I ran my 2X4 inch board through it 8 to 10 times. I also let it warm up for about 30 minutes before using it.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "nps0" <w6nim@...> wrote:

>
> 
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "leeleduc" <leeleduc@> wrote:
> >
> > Just tried a Harbor Freight 9" laminator (#92499) costing $28. The box it came in says it reaches 300 degrees. After a 0.032" board was run through a few times,it was very hot to the touch. Shows promise. I've posted a photo of my first try in the Harbor Freight Laminator file. The board outline is 10 mil in width. Looks like it may be a viable, inexpensive laminator. 
> > 
> > Printer used: Samsung ML-2525W
> > 
> > Paper used: Staples Color Laser Paper #633215.
> > 
> > I'm going to try this again when my Pulsar TTP arrives. Pulsar is the paper I usually use.
> >
> For what it's worth, I just got an HF coupon for this laminator for $19.99.  For that price, I had to try it.  I'll light it off tomorrow for a try.  It's also cheap enough to take it apart and see if it can be worked over to accept thicker boards - I prefer to work with .062 stock.  I can send copies of the coupon, if anyone else is interested.
> 
> Norm
> W6NIM
>

Is this to be used instead of a toaster ivan to set ink?

Mike KC7NOA 

To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com

From: leeleduc@...
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 14:06:53 +0000
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Harbor Freight Laminator














 



  


    
      
      
      



This laminator feeds faster than my GBC. It runs at 12 inches per minute. I ran my 2X4 inch board through it 8 to 10 times. I also let it warm up for about 30 minutes before using it.



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "nps0" <w6nim@...> wrote:

>

> 

> 

> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "leeleduc" <leeleduc@> wrote:

> >

> > Just tried a Harbor Freight 9" laminator (#92499) costing $28. The box it came in says it reaches 300 degrees. After a 0.032" board was run through a few times,it was very hot to the touch. Shows promise. I've posted a photo of my first try in the Harbor Freight Laminator file. The board outline is 10 mil in width. Looks like it may be a viable, inexpensive laminator. 

> > 

> > Printer used: Samsung ML-2525W

> > 

> > Paper used: Staples Color Laser Paper #633215.

> > 

> > I'm going to try this again when my Pulsar TTP arrives. Pulsar is the paper I usually use.

> >

> For what it's worth, I just got an HF coupon for this laminator for $19.99.  For that price, I had to try it.  I'll light it off tomorrow for a try.  It's also cheap enough to take it apart and see if it can be worked over to accept thicker boards - I prefer to work with .062 stock.  I can send copies of the coupon, if anyone else is interested.

> 

> Norm

> W6NIM

>






    
     

    
    






  






 		 	   		  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Used for toner transfer - laser printer toner printed on magazine or some other special papers can be melted off of the paper and onto circuit board copper laminate.  The plastic toner acts as etch resist.

Look for more posts here about toner transfer.

Donald.
--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
()  no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\  ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org>

----- Original Message -----

> From: "MIKE DURKIN" <Patriot121@...>
> To: "homebrew pcbs" <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2011 10:12:39 AM
> Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Harbor Freight Laminator
> Is this to be used instead of a toaster ivan to set ink?
> 
> Mike KC7NOA
> 
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> From: leeleduc@...
> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 14:06:53 +0000
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Harbor Freight Laminator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This laminator feeds faster than my GBC. It runs at 12 inches per
> minute. I ran my 2X4 inch board through it 8 to 10 times. I also let
> it warm up for about 30 minutes before using it.
> 
> 
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "nps0" <w6nim@...> wrote:
> 
> >
> 
> >
> 
> >
> 
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "leeleduc" <leeleduc@> wrote:
> 
> > >
> 
> > > Just tried a Harbor Freight 9" laminator (#92499) costing $28. The
> > > box it came in says it reaches 300 degrees. After a 0.032" board
> > > was run through a few times,it was very hot to the touch. Shows
> > > promise. I've posted a photo of my first try in the Harbor Freight
> > > Laminator file. The board outline is 10 mil in width. Looks like
> > > it may be a viable, inexpensive laminator.
> 
> > >
> 
> > > Printer used: Samsung ML-2525W
> 
> > >
> 
> > > Paper used: Staples Color Laser Paper #633215.
> 
> > >
> 
> > > I'm going to try this again when my Pulsar TTP arrives. Pulsar is
> > > the paper I usually use.
> 
> > >
> 
> > For what it's worth, I just got an HF coupon for this laminator for
> > $19.99. For that price, I had to try it. I'll light it off tomorrow
> > for a try. It's also cheap enough to take it apart and see if it can
> > be worked over to accept thicker boards - I prefer to work with .062
> > stock. I can send copies of the coupon, if anyone else is
> > interested.
> 
> >
> 
> > Norm
> 
> > W6NIM
> 
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>

Would greatly appreciate a copy of the coupon!  Any idea if the laminator will work with sheet metal?  It's heavier, so just wondering if the laminator's motor will be strong enough to pull the pieces through.  (I don't make PCBs, I'm an artist, but the transfer and etching techniques I use are the same and this group is an amazing resource.)

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "nps0" <w6nim@...> wrote:

>
> 
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "leeleduc" <leeleduc@> wrote:
> >
> > Just tried a Harbor Freight 9" laminator (#92499) costing $28. The box it came in says it reaches 300 degrees. After a 0.032" board was run through a few times,it was very hot to the touch. Shows promise. I've posted a photo of my first try in the Harbor Freight Laminator file. The board outline is 10 mil in width. Looks like it may be a viable, inexpensive laminator. 
> > 
> > Printer used: Samsung ML-2525W
> > 
> > Paper used: Staples Color Laser Paper #633215.
> > 
> > I'm going to try this again when my Pulsar TTP arrives. Pulsar is the paper I usually use.
> >
> For what it's worth, I just got an HF coupon for this laminator for $19.99.  For that price, I had to try it.  I'll light it off tomorrow for a try.  It's also cheap enough to take it apart and see if it can be worked over to accept thicker boards - I prefer to work with .062 stock.  I can send copies of the coupon, if anyone else is interested.
> 
> Norm
> W6NIM
>

Laminator Coupon, expires 10/26.

http://widgets.harborfreight.com/wswidgets/common/displayCoupon.do?hdr=mag&week=4211&campaign=b&page=4211b_retail.html&cust=99999999999&keycode=1002


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bklyngrrl1" <alltrouble@...> wrote:

>
> Would greatly appreciate a copy of the coupon!  Any idea if the laminator will work with sheet metal?  It's heavier, so just wondering if the laminator's motor will be strong enough to pull the pieces through.  (I don't make PCBs, I'm an artist, but the transfer and etching techniques I use are the same and this group is an amazing resource.)
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "nps0" <w6nim@> wrote:
> >
> > 
> > 
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "leeleduc" <leeleduc@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Just tried a Harbor Freight 9" laminator (#92499) costing $28. The box it came in says it reaches 300 degrees. After a 0.032" board was run through a few times,it was very hot to the touch. Shows promise. I've posted a photo of my first try in the Harbor Freight Laminator file. The board outline is 10 mil in width. Looks like it may be a viable, inexpensive laminator. 
> > > 
> > > Printer used: Samsung ML-2525W
> > > 
> > > Paper used: Staples Color Laser Paper #633215.
> > > 
> > > I'm going to try this again when my Pulsar TTP arrives. Pulsar is the paper I usually use.
> > >
> > For what it's worth, I just got an HF coupon for this laminator for $19.99.  For that price, I had to try it.  I'll light it off tomorrow for a try.  It's also cheap enough to take it apart and see if it can be worked over to accept thicker boards - I prefer to work with .062 stock.  I can send copies of the coupon, if anyone else is interested.
> > 
> > Norm
> > W6NIM
> >
>

thanks!

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "leeleduc" <leeleduc@...> wrote:

>
> 
> 
> Laminator Coupon, expires 10/26.
> 
> http://widgets.harborfreight.com/wswidgets/common/displayCoupon.do?hdr=mag&week=4211&campaign=b&page=4211b_retail.html&cust=99999999999&keycode=1002
> 
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "bklyngrrl1" <alltrouble@> wrote:
> >
> > Would greatly appreciate a copy of the coupon!  Any idea if the laminator will work with sheet metal?  It's heavier, so just wondering if the laminator's motor will be strong enough to pull the pieces through.  (I don't make PCBs, I'm an artist, but the transfer and etching techniques I use are the same and this group is an amazing resource.)
> > 
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "nps0" <w6nim@> wrote:
> > >
> > > 
> > > 
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "leeleduc" <leeleduc@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Just tried a Harbor Freight 9" laminator (#92499) costing $28. The box it came in says it reaches 300 degrees. After a 0.032" board was run through a few times,it was very hot to the touch. Shows promise. I've posted a photo of my first try in the Harbor Freight Laminator file. The board outline is 10 mil in width. Looks like it may be a viable, inexpensive laminator. 
> > > > 
> > > > Printer used: Samsung ML-2525W
> > > > 
> > > > Paper used: Staples Color Laser Paper #633215.
> > > > 
> > > > I'm going to try this again when my Pulsar TTP arrives. Pulsar is the paper I usually use.
> > > >
> > > For what it's worth, I just got an HF coupon for this laminator for $19.99.  For that price, I had to try it.  I'll light it off tomorrow for a try.  It's also cheap enough to take it apart and see if it can be worked over to accept thicker boards - I prefer to work with .062 stock.  I can send copies of the coupon, if anyone else is interested.
> > > 
> > > Norm
> > > W6NIM
> > >
> >
>

Laminator should work with sheet metal if it's not too thick.  I don't have experience with this particular laminator, but many printed circuit boards are 1/16 inch (1.6mm) thick.  If your sheet metal is thinner than that, you shouldn't have a problem.  It may take several passes to get it up to temperature, but you have to do that with circuit boards, too.

What sheet metals do you use?  I'm thinking of trying to etch or electro-etch some titanium sheets and would accept any guidance.

HTH,
Donald.
--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
()  no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\  ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org>

----- Original Message -----

> From: "bklyngrrl1" <alltrouble@...>
> To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2011 1:28:43 PM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Harbor Freight Laminator
> Would greatly appreciate a copy of the coupon! Any idea if the
> laminator will work with sheet metal? It's heavier, so just wondering
> if the laminator's motor will be strong enough to pull the pieces
> through. (I don't make PCBs, I'm an artist, but the transfer and
> etching techniques I use are the same and this group is an amazing
> resource.)
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "nps0" <w6nim@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "leeleduc" <leeleduc@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Just tried a Harbor Freight 9" laminator (#92499) costing $28. The
> > > box it came in says it reaches 300 degrees. After a 0.032" board
> > > was run through a few times,it was very hot to the touch. Shows
> > > promise. I've posted a photo of my first try in the Harbor Freight
> > > Laminator file. The board outline is 10 mil in width. Looks like
> > > it may be a viable, inexpensive laminator.
> > >
> > > Printer used: Samsung ML-2525W
> > >
> > > Paper used: Staples Color Laser Paper #633215.
> > >
> > > I'm going to try this again when my Pulsar TTP arrives. Pulsar is
> > > the paper I usually use.
> > >
> > For what it's worth, I just got an HF coupon for this laminator for
> > $19.99. For that price, I had to try it. I'll light it off tomorrow
> > for a try. It's also cheap enough to take it apart and see if it can
> > be worked over to accept thicker boards - I prefer to work with .062
> > stock. I can send copies of the coupon, if anyone else is
> > interested.
> >
> > Norm
> > W6NIM
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>

I use mostly non-ferrous metals - copper, brass, bronze, nickel silver, etc.  Stainless and mild steel are next on my list of metals to try, but that means switching etchant.  (I'm working with muriatic acid etchant, but would have to switch to ferric chloride I think.)  I haven't worked with titanium yet.  Not sure what the etchant is for that - any idea?

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Donald H Locker <dhlocker@...> wrote:

>
> Laminator should work with sheet metal if it's not too thick.  I don't have experience with this particular laminator, but many printed circuit boards are 1/16 inch (1.6mm) thick.  If your sheet metal is thinner than that, you shouldn't have a problem.  It may take several passes to get it up to temperature, but you have to do that with circuit boards, too.
> 
> What sheet metals do you use?  I'm thinking of trying to etch or electro-etch some titanium sheets and would accept any guidance.
> 
> HTH,
> Donald.
> --
> *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
> ()  no proprietary attachments; no html mail
> /\  ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org>
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "bklyngrrl1" <alltrouble@...>
> > To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2011 1:28:43 PM
> > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Harbor Freight Laminator
> > Would greatly appreciate a copy of the coupon! Any idea if the
> > laminator will work with sheet metal? It's heavier, so just wondering
> > if the laminator's motor will be strong enough to pull the pieces
> > through. (I don't make PCBs, I'm an artist, but the transfer and
> > etching techniques I use are the same and this group is an amazing
> > resource.)
> > 
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "nps0" <w6nim@> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "leeleduc" <leeleduc@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Just tried a Harbor Freight 9" laminator (#92499) costing $28. The
> > > > box it came in says it reaches 300 degrees. After a 0.032" board
> > > > was run through a few times,it was very hot to the touch. Shows
> > > > promise. I've posted a photo of my first try in the Harbor Freight
> > > > Laminator file. The board outline is 10 mil in width. Looks like
> > > > it may be a viable, inexpensive laminator.
> > > >
> > > > Printer used: Samsung ML-2525W
> > > >
> > > > Paper used: Staples Color Laser Paper #633215.
> > > >
> > > > I'm going to try this again when my Pulsar TTP arrives. Pulsar is
> > > > the paper I usually use.
> > > >
> > > For what it's worth, I just got an HF coupon for this laminator for
> > > $19.99. For that price, I had to try it. I'll light it off tomorrow
> > > for a try. It's also cheap enough to take it apart and see if it can
> > > be worked over to accept thicker boards - I prefer to work with .062
> > > stock. I can send copies of the coupon, if anyone else is
> > > interested.
> > >
> > > Norm
> > > W6NIM
> > >
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ------------------------------------
> > 
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> > Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> > 
> > 
> >
>

I'll let you know when I figure out a safe one.  I believe HydroFluoric (HF) acid etches it quite well, but is extremely hazardous to handle.  Most of the formulae I've seen use HF and H2O2.  Sorry to all that we've wandered a bit off-topic.

Donald.
--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
()  no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\  ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org>

----- Original Message -----

> From: "bklyngrrl1" <alltrouble@...>
> To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2011 3:53:08 PM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Harbor Freight Laminator
> I use mostly non-ferrous metals - copper, brass, bronze, nickel
> silver, etc. Stainless and mild steel are next on my list of metals to
> try, but that means switching etchant. (I'm working with muriatic acid
> etchant, but would have to switch to ferric chloride I think.) I
> haven't worked with titanium yet. Not sure what the etchant is for
> that - any idea?
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Donald H Locker <dhlocker@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Laminator should work with sheet metal if it's not too thick. I
> > don't have experience with this particular laminator, but many
> > printed circuit boards are 1/16 inch (1.6mm) thick. If your sheet
> > metal is thinner than that, you shouldn't have a problem. It may
> > take several passes to get it up to temperature, but you have to do
> > that with circuit boards, too.
> >
> > What sheet metals do you use? I'm thinking of trying to etch or
> > electro-etch some titanium sheets and would accept any guidance.
> >
> > HTH,
> > Donald.
> > --
> > *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
> > () no proprietary attachments; no html mail
> > /\ ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org>
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "bklyngrrl1" <alltrouble@...>
> > > To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2011 1:28:43 PM
> > > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Harbor Freight Laminator
> > > Would greatly appreciate a copy of the coupon! Any idea if the
> > > laminator will work with sheet metal? It's heavier, so just
> > > wondering
> > > if the laminator's motor will be strong enough to pull the pieces
> > > through. (I don't make PCBs, I'm an artist, but the transfer and
> > > etching techniques I use are the same and this group is an amazing
> > > resource.)
> > >
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "nps0" <w6nim@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "leeleduc" <leeleduc@>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Just tried a Harbor Freight 9" laminator (#92499) costing $28.
> > > > > The
> > > > > box it came in says it reaches 300 degrees. After a 0.032"
> > > > > board
> > > > > was run through a few times,it was very hot to the touch.
> > > > > Shows
> > > > > promise. I've posted a photo of my first try in the Harbor
> > > > > Freight
> > > > > Laminator file. The board outline is 10 mil in width. Looks
> > > > > like
> > > > > it may be a viable, inexpensive laminator.
> > > > >
> > > > > Printer used: Samsung ML-2525W
> > > > >
> > > > > Paper used: Staples Color Laser Paper #633215.
> > > > >
> > > > > I'm going to try this again when my Pulsar TTP arrives. Pulsar
> > > > > is
> > > > > the paper I usually use.
> > > > >
> > > > For what it's worth, I just got an HF coupon for this laminator
> > > > for
> > > > $19.99. For that price, I had to try it. I'll light it off
> > > > tomorrow
> > > > for a try. It's also cheap enough to take it apart and see if it
> > > > can
> > > > be worked over to accept thicker boards - I prefer to work with
> > > > .062
> > > > stock. I can send copies of the coupon, if anyone else is
> > > > interested.
> > > >
> > > > Norm
> > > > W6NIM
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files,
> > > and
> > > Photos:
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>

On Wed, 26 Oct 2011, Donald H Locker wrote:

> I'll let you know when I figure out a safe one.  I believe HydroFluoric 
> (HF) acid etches it quite well, but is extremely hazardous to handle. 
> Most of the formulae I've seen use HF and H2O2.  Sorry to all that we've 
> wandered a bit off-topic.

If you're interested in pursuing Ti etching, try a mechanical approach. 
Suppose we put a pattern on a sheet of thin rubber, then dissolve away 
what we don't want.  Use that rubber as a mask for sandblasting.

-- 
David Griffith
dgriffi@...

A: Because it fouls the order in which people normally read text.
Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing?
A: Top-posting.
Q: What is the most annoying thing in e-mail?

Forgot about HF. It can kill you quite easily.

2011/10/26 David Griffith <dgriffi@...>

> **
>
>
> On Wed, 26 Oct 2011, Donald H Locker wrote:
>
> > I'll let you know when I figure out a safe one. I believe HydroFluoric
> > (HF) acid etches it quite well, but is extremely hazardous to handle.
> > Most of the formulae I've seen use HF and H2O2. Sorry to all that we've
> > wandered a bit off-topic.
>
> If you're interested in pursuing Ti etching, try a mechanical approach.
> Suppose we put a pattern on a sheet of thin rubber, then dissolve away
> what we don't want. Use that rubber as a mask for sandblasting.
>
> --
> David Griffith
> dgriffi@...
>
> A: Because it fouls the order in which people normally read text.
> Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing?
> A: Top-posting.
> Q: What is the most annoying thing in e-mail?
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> > I'll let you know when I figure out a safe one.  I believe
> > HydroFluoric
> > (HF) acid etches it quite well, but is extremely hazardous to handle.
> > Most of the formulae I've seen use HF and H2O2.  Sorry to all that
> > we've wandered a bit off-topic.
> 
> If you're interested in pursuing Ti etching, try a mechanical approach.
> Suppose we put a pattern on a sheet of thin rubber, then dissolve away
what we
> don't want.  Use that rubber as a mask for sandblasting.


Laser the pattern instead (vinyl or plastic masking), then sandblast.
Common enough technique.

Tony

For what ever reason this just showed up on November 1st. The coupon expired on October 26th.

Never mind.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, jeremy hodder <hodder.jeremy@...> wrote:

>
> that Laminator is currently on sale 19.99
> http://widgets.harborfreight.com/wswidgets/common/displayCoupon.do?week=4211&campaign=b&page=coupon14.html&single=true&cust=00138550794&keycode=1003
> 
> On Thu, Oct 20, 2011 at 6:08 PM, leeleduc <leeleduc@...> wrote:
> 
> > **
> >
> >
> > Just tried a Harbor Freight 9" laminator (#92499) costing $28. The box it
> > came in says it reaches 300 degrees. After a 0.032" board was run through a
> > few times,it was very hot to the touch. Shows promise. I've posted a photo
> > of my first try in the Harbor Freight Laminator file. The board outline is
> > 10 mil in width. Looks like it may be a viable, inexpensive laminator.
> >
> > Printer used: Samsung ML-2525W
> >
> > Paper used: Staples Color Laser Paper #633215.
> >
> > I'm going to try this again when my Pulsar TTP arrives. Pulsar is the paper
> > I usually use.
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

For the record I have tried .040, .062, and (barely) .080 through it.  .040
and .062 seem to work fine in it as long as you're not trying to run a
board wider than around 6 inches in it.  .080 was a stretch and needed
assistance to make it through successfully.  Mind you these are bare boards
without anything like toner transfer paper or photoresist on them.

Regards,
Larry

On Fri, Oct 21, 2011 at 2:41 AM, jeremy hodder <hodder.jeremy@...>wrote:

> that Laminator is currently on sale 19.99
>
> http://widgets.harborfreight.com/wswidgets/common/displayCoupon.do?week=4211&campaign=b&page=coupon14.html&single=true&cust=00138550794&keycode=1003
>
> On Thu, Oct 20, 2011 at 6:08 PM, leeleduc <leeleduc@...> wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > Just tried a Harbor Freight 9" laminator (#92499) costing $28. The box it
> > came in says it reaches 300 degrees. After a 0.032" board was run
> through a
> > few times,it was very hot to the touch. Shows promise. I've posted a
> photo
> > of my first try in the Harbor Freight Laminator file. The board outline
> is
> > 10 mil in width. Looks like it may be a viable, inexpensive laminator.
> >
> > Printer used: Samsung ML-2525W
> >
> > Paper used: Staples Color Laser Paper #633215.
> >
> > I'm going to try this again when my Pulsar TTP arrives. Pulsar is the
> paper
> > I usually use.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello,

Just finished running a 0.062 double sided pc board with Techniks Press and
Peel toner transfer through the Harbor Freight Laminator, Model 92499.  The
toner was put on the Press and Peel using a copy machine at a big box
store.  After seven runs through the Laminator, the result was mixed at
best.

First, the circuit was not transfered evenly over the length of the board.
Second there was a series of pin holes in the toner transfered to the board
- as if a roller in the Laminator is a diamond pattern (or whatever this is
called).

Haven't opened up the Laminator to see what is inside.  Anyone else getting
any results using the Harbor Freight Laminator?

-- 
   73,
   Mike, K4GMH


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Been lurking for a while and it's been years since I had Ferric Chloride 
stains on my fingers.

Just a thought or 2 on laminators.

Has anyone tried adapting a plain paper copier fuser roller? Widen the 
gap and slow it down, I don't see why it wouldn't work.

When I was repairing them 30 years ago a local Ham bought one of our 
scrap units for the purpose of using toner transfer onto blank boards. 
That was coated paper to transparency then fused to the Copper clad. 
Never laid eyes on it but later I did ask him about it. He changed out 
the adjustment bolts for longer ones to widen the gap between the 
rollers and upped the temp a bit. Silent Key now so exactly how he did 
it may be forever lost.

When I worked for HP in the late 1990s they were using Laserjets for 
direct printing onto prototype boards. They had the R&D department so I 
doubt that's something I could do in my basement with a vice grips and 
duck-tape...

Still, the modern low end dry toner printers use heat and pressure to 
fuse the toner and it seems to me that they could be used. The fuser 
drums (mostly) have an almost mirror polish and operate as high as 450F.

Just a suggestion, I have too many Irons in the fire as it is.

Tim Hills

In both cases the printers were modified
On 11/2/2011 22:09, Mike wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> Just finished running a 0.062 double sided pc board with Techniks 
> Press and
> Peel toner transfer through the Harbor Freight Laminator, Model 92499. The
> toner was put on the Press and Peel using a copy machine at a big box
> store. After seven runs through the Laminator, the result was mixed at
> best.
>
> First, the circuit was not transfered evenly over the length of the board.
> Second there was a series of pin holes in the toner transfered to the 
> board
> - as if a roller in the Laminator is a diamond pattern (or whatever 
> this is
> called).
>
> Haven't opened up the Laminator to see what is inside. Anyone else getting
> any results using the Harbor Freight Laminator?
>
> -- 
> 73,
> Mike, K4GMH
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Wed, 02 Nov 2011 23:33:57 -0500, you wrote:

>Been lurking for a while and it's been years since I had Ferric Chloride 
>stains on my fingers.
>
>Just a thought or 2 on laminators.
>
>Has anyone tried adapting a plain paper copier fuser roller? Widen the 
>gap and slow it down, I don't see why it wouldn't work.

I have one as a potential project, stalled as any number of projects
are due to real life(tm).
>
>When I was repairing them 30 years ago a local Ham bought one of our 
>scrap units for the purpose of using toner transfer onto blank boards. 
>That was coated paper to transparency then fused to the Copper clad. 
>Never laid eyes on it but later I did ask him about it. He changed out 
>the adjustment bolts for longer ones to widen the gap between the 
>rollers and upped the temp a bit. Silent Key now so exactly how he did 
>it may be forever lost.
>

Not that hard.  Slow it down, temperature ought to be pretty good if
the board gets that hot, then make sure that you can adjust the
spacing to fit the board.  

You'll have to experiment with a few things, I think that pressure is
rather important.  Keeps the pattern from spreading when you get it
right.



>When I worked for HP in the late 1990s they were using Laserjets for 
>direct printing onto prototype boards. They had the R&D department so I 
>doubt that's something I could do in my basement with a vice grips and 
>duck-tape...

Laser printer fuser roller, temperature controller, thermocouple, DC
motor with small power supply, Bet you could do it in your basement.

(leave out the tape....)

>
>Still, the modern low end dry toner printers use heat and pressure to 
>fuse the toner and it seems to me that they could be used. The fuser 
>drums (mostly) have an almost mirror polish and operate as high as 450F.

Old laser jets at thrift stores for me.

>
>Just a suggestion, I have too many Irons in the fire as it is.

Know that one,

Harvey

>
>Tim Hills
>
>In both cases the printers were modified
>On 11/2/2011 22:09, Mike wrote:
>>
>> Hello,
>>
>> Just finished running a 0.062 double sided pc board with Techniks 
>> Press and
>> Peel toner transfer through the Harbor Freight Laminator, Model 92499. The
>> toner was put on the Press and Peel using a copy machine at a big box
>> store. After seven runs through the Laminator, the result was mixed at
>> best.
>>
>> First, the circuit was not transfered evenly over the length of the board.
>> Second there was a series of pin holes in the toner transfered to the 
>> board
>> - as if a roller in the Laminator is a diamond pattern (or whatever 
>> this is
>> called).
>>
>> Haven't opened up the Laminator to see what is inside. Anyone else getting
>> any results using the Harbor Freight Laminator?
>>
>> -- 
>> 73,
>> Mike, K4GMH
>>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Opened the Harbor Freight Laminator and found the cause of having to shove
the board to get it to start progressing through.  The upper and lower
aluminum assemblage which houses the heater elements has a couple of lips
through which the board has to pass.  This opening between the upper and
lower aluminum assemblages was just too small to allow the board and the
toner transfer material to freely pass  before being taken up by the rubber
heat transfer rollers.

There is enough play in the plastic end brackets holding the aluminum
assemblages to expand the opening to allow the board and toner transfer
material to pass.  A piece of 0.062 double sided PCB wrapped in aluminum
flashing was wedged between the two aluminum assemblages to maintain the
opening.

A board with a Techniks Press and Peel toner transfer circuit was passed
through the Laminator over eight times, but, unfortunately, the toner was
not evenly transfered.  Suspect the board was not getting hot enough even
with all the passes.

The Laminator is advertised to get up to 300 F (Techniks Press and Peel
directions says the temp. should be between 275 - 325 F).  However, doubt
if anything near that temp. is getting transfered to the board by the
rubber like rollers.  Next step is to make the Laminator's temp. adjustable
so it can get hotter and/or slow down the motor driving the rollers pulling
the board through the Laminator.

On Wed, Nov 2, 2011 at 11:09 PM, Mike <k4gmh@...> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Just finished running a 0.062 double sided pc board with Techniks Press
> and Peel toner transfer through the Harbor Freight Laminator, Model 92499.
> The toner was put on the Press and Peel using a copy machine at a big box
> store.  After seven runs through the Laminator, the result was mixed at
> best.
>
> First, the circuit was not transfered evenly over the length of the
> board.  Second there was a series of pin holes in the toner transfered to
> the board - as if a roller in the Laminator is a diamond pattern (or
> whatever this is called).
>
> Haven't opened up the Laminator to see what is inside.  Anyone else
> getting any results using the Harbor Freight Laminator?
>
> --
>    73,
>    Mike, K4GMH
>
>
>


-- 
   73,
   Mike, K4GMH


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Some Laser printers have toner that melts at considerably higher Temps. Tech support at Techniks told me this a few years ago. Use the search feature for many discussions on this issue and various paper media. The Brother printers (I had one of the early ones) use high temp toner. The best success I had was printing on catalog paper. 

I used an old-type iron to transfer the brother output to PC boards employing a digital turkey thermometer to set the high temp needed (mine has a long flexible lead to the sensor prong.)

For Press and Peel Blue work, I take the ink jet copy to a library or print shot and have them copy it onto the blue sheet. I use the iron preheated to about 325 degrees for these transfers.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Mike <k4gmh@...> wrote:
>
> Opened the Harbor Freight Laminator and found the cause of having to shove
-------
> A board with a Techniks Press and Peel toner transfer circuit was passed
> through the Laminator over eight times, but, unfortunately, the toner was
> not evenly transfered.  Suspect the board was not getting hot enough even
> with all the passes.
> 
> The Laminator is advertised to get up to 300 F (Techniks Press and Peel
> directions says the temp. should be between 275 - 325 F).  However, doubt
> if anything near that temp. is getting transfered to the board by the
> rubber like rollers.  Next step is to make the Laminator's temp. adjustable
> so it can get hotter and/or slow down the motor driving the rollers pulling
> the board through the Laminator.
-------------

Hello,

Got back to the seeing what are the limitations of the inexpensive Harbor
Freight Laminator for use with toner transfer.

The temp. is not fixed nor can it be adjusted.  The temp. is controlled by
a simple open/close thermostat.  The thermostat is attached to the extruded
aluminum used to hold one of the heating element (bottom one).  The
thermostat allows the aluminum to have a heat variation from 278 F to 230
F, as measured by a thermocouple.  Do not have a temp. measurement of the
rollers that will transfer the heat/pressure to the toner transfer material
and PCB.

Although the thermostat has a 40 degree max. - min. temp. range, Press and
Peel says a temp. between 275 -325 F, 50 degree variation, should be used
for toner transfer.  By the way the Laminator does have a 180 C max. cut
out in line with the heaters and mounted on one of the aluminum heater
holders.

Now  a way to set the temp. within the 275 - 325 F range and is needed
(will have to remove the thermostat).  It should be simple as the Laminator
cost less than $20.  Any ideas would be welcome.
-- 
   73,
   Mike, K4GMH



On Thu, Nov 3, 2011 at 9:19 PM, Mike <k4gmh@...> wrote:

> Opened the Harbor Freight Laminator and found the cause of having to shove
> the board to get it to start progressing through.  The upper and lower
> aluminum assemblage which houses the heater elements has a couple of lips
> through which the board has to pass.  This opening between the upper and
> lower aluminum assemblages was just too small to allow the board and the
> toner transfer material to freely pass  before being taken up by the rubber
> heat transfer rollers.
>
> There is enough play in the plastic end brackets holding the aluminum
> assemblages to expand the opening to allow the board and toner transfer
> material to pass.  A piece of 0.062 double sided PCB wrapped in aluminum
> flashing was wedged between the two aluminum assemblages to maintain the
> opening.
>
> A board with a Techniks Press and Peel toner transfer circuit was passed
> through the Laminator over eight times, but, unfortunately, the toner was
> not evenly transfered.  Suspect the board was not getting hot enough even
> with all the passes.
>
> The Laminator is advertised to get up to 300 F (Techniks Press and Peel
> directions says the temp. should be between 275 - 325 F).  However, doubt
> if anything near that temp. is getting transfered to the board by the
> rubber like rollers.  Next step is to make the Laminator's temp. adjustable
> so it can get hotter and/or slow down the motor driving the rollers pulling
> the board through the Laminator.
>
> On Wed, Nov 2, 2011 at 11:09 PM, Mike <k4gmh@...> wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> Just finished running a 0.062 double sided pc board with Techniks Press
>> and Peel toner transfer through the Harbor Freight Laminator, Model 92499.
>> The toner was put on the Press and Peel using a copy machine at a big box
>> store.  After seven runs through the Laminator, the result was mixed at
>> best.
>>
>> First, the circuit was not transfered evenly over the length of the
>> board.  Second there was a series of pin holes in the toner transfered to
>> the board - as if a roller in the Laminator is a diamond pattern (or
>> whatever this is called).
>>
>> Haven't opened up the Laminator to see what is inside.  Anyone else
>> getting any results using the Harbor Freight Laminator?
>>
>> --
>>    73,
>>    Mike, K4GMH
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>    73,
>    Mike, K4GMH
>
>
>


-- 
   73,
   Mike, K4GMH


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> Although the thermostat has a 40 degree max. - min. temp. range, Press and
> Peel says a temp. between 275 -325 F, 50 degree variation, should be used
for
> toner transfer.  By the way the Laminator does have a 180 C max. cut out
in
> line with the heaters and mounted on one of the aluminum heater holders.
> 
> Now  a way to set the temp. within the 275 - 325 F range and is needed
(will
> have to remove the thermostat).  It should be simple as the Laminator cost
less
> than $20.  Any ideas would be welcome.


Here ya go:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/digital-temperature-controller-66334.  
Or http://www.dealextreme.com/p/digital-temperature-controller-66125,
48x48mm vs 76x76mm for the first one.

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/omron-e5c2-temperature-controller-ac-220v-81620
if you don't like LEDs & buttons.  Cheaper too (but presumably no autotune).

The relay in these will only handle 3 amps, you might need to add one to
switch the laminator (easy to replace the existing one though).

Plenty of these on eBay as well (DX are pretty slow to ship at times).

Tony

I noticed these are 220 VAC controllers and I am not sure if they would work on 120 VAC. The two links to the digital controller do not work.

Bob


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Looking around on ebay I found this and a mind dazzling array of others
temperature controllers and thermocouples http://bit.ly/skd09n They also had
bi metallic thermostats. 

 

If I'm reading the spec sheet there is an internal relay capable of
switching 220 at  amps. And a digital out for electronic relays. 

 

Contact capacity of output: 250V AC 3A (resistive load)

Voltage pulse output: 0/12V (suitable for solid state relay SSR)

 

I think the bottom line for me is to first determine which laminator to
obtain. If the new GBC laminators can be converted like the older ones that
have been successfully hacked by members of the homebrew_pcb community. 

 

-                      jeffa

  

I noticed these are 220 VAC controllers and I am not sure if they would work
on 120 VAC. The two links to the digital controller do not work.

Bob







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

If you want to try one - - -


product15
barcode
ftr


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On 11/17/2011 11:36 AM, Norm wrote:
>
> If you want to try one - - -
>
> product15
> barcode
>
OOPS!  The coupon didn't come thru.  Anyway, it's available for $19.95 
until the 23rd.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

There's about a billion variations of these.  Re-post of the links:

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/digital-temperature-controller-66334
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/digital-temperature-controller-66125

The first is a REX C700, the second a REX C100, Google those and you'll be
kept out of trouble for hours.  Those two are basically the same, the first
is a bigger physical size and can set to control a freezer rather than just
a heater, not sure about the second one.

Manuals here: http://www.rkcinst.co.jp/english/product/single2-e.htm under
REX Century Series.  The manuals aren't much use unless you know what you're
doing, btw, but they're not hard to figure out.  The code on the side of the
unit tells you what features it has.

These are 220v, but you can get them in 12v, 24v, 48v, 120v and 100-250v.

Relay only (3A) on these, but some will control a solid state relay (SSR).
These can too if you open them up, pull out the relay and run the 12v out.
Or just replace the relay with a 10A version or whatever your laminator
needs.

The alarms are handy too, hook up a big light so you can see when it hits
temperature.

The more expensive ones simply have more options, like accept different
sensors, bigger ranges, dual control (heat & cool so you can maintain a bath
etc), network output, logging and so on.

These are fine for a laminator, and for under $20 cheaper & simpler than
anything you could build yourself.  You can get timers in the same format as
well, they're handy.

Tony



> If I'm reading the spec sheet there is an internal relay capable of
switching 220
> at  amps. And a digital out for electronic relays.
> 
> 
> 
> Contact capacity of output: 250V AC 3A (resistive load)
> 
> Voltage pulse output: 0/12V (suitable for solid state relay SSR)
> 
> 
> 
> I think the bottom line for me is to first determine which laminator to
obtain. If
> the new GBC laminators can be converted like the older ones that have been
> successfully hacked by members of the homebrew_pcb community.
> 
> 
> 
> -                      jeffa
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed these are 220 VAC controllers and I am not sure if they would
work on

> 120 VAC. The two links to the digital controller do not work.
> 
> Bob

On Thu, 17 Nov 2011 07:42:07 -0800 (PST), you wrote:

>I noticed these are 220 VAC controllers and I am not sure if they would work on 120 VAC. The two links to the digital controller do not work.
>
>Bob
>
>
>
Take a look at SKU# 66334 at dealextreme.

Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC

The Harbor Freight Laminator is a good thing because they keep the same items for years and years, so posting our experience with it could help others. It's also as simple as a any device gets (no electronics) and takes apart completely and unusually easy.

Currrently $25, $5 off.

Max thickness:
0.025" in instructions (error on website saying 6 mm instead of 0.6 mm)
A poster here said 0.080" could be pushed through.  Another said a simple modification (which he detailed about spreading a plastic gap wider with a piece of 0.064" and alumunium sheeting to make it a little wider) allowed double-sided 0.064".  

Temperature:
There is a 185 C 1-shot temp FUSE, a 90C 5A rectangular bimetal NC switch on the top heating element that only turns on a green "ready" LED (it shorts the LED below 90C), and a round 125C 10A bimetal NC switch on the bottom heating element that turns off the heating element.  This switch turns back on when it drops to 110C (230F). There are no electronics in it except for 2 LEDs with supporting 100k resistor and rectifier.  The 5 RPM 4W 120AC synchonous motor (TYJ50-8A, many of them on ebay) is simply wired in parallel with the heating element after the main on/off switch.  Synchonous means the speed is set by 60 Hz, so I don't know if 2W of 15k series resistance can slow it down at a given torque without harming it.  Someone mechanically inclined could put in a smaller 1/4" "half-moon" shaft gear (1.5 cm diameter for half speed instead of 3cm), but then a new support for the motor would need to be created. I might do it if I come across that gear, maybe even 1 cm.  There were 26 2mm teeth on the 3 cm.

Both temp switches can be bought on ebay (they are the only bimetal switches for sale on ebay) at 150C (300F), and the round one is also available at 180C (350F).  I'm going to try it with the high temp ink of a brother printer.   They're only a couple dollars, but you have to buy 5 and pay $9, half the price a nice thermal controller on ebay or the previous links people gave.

The specs say it's only a 3A device, so the rectangular temp switch should work and two 300F are on ebay for $3, including shipping.  At least I can replace the 90C switch with one of these so it will tell me when it's really up to temp.  

I'm curious as to what temperature the rubber rollers start to give off a lot of fumes.

The digital temperature controller looks nice and hard to figure out, but I'm going to use my multimeter's thermocouple (the first time I've ever used it) to watch the temp, and use a mechanical switch to bypass the thermal limit, in addition to the 150C new bimetal switch that is in the mail.   I saw an easy to use (hardly adjustable) analog temperature controller on ebay for $15 that accepts an L thermocouple which is outdated but within a couple degrees of type J.

== Motor Speed ==
I used a 555 timer in astable mode with a bypass diode (see wikipedia) to get <50% on time, to control a relay to turn the motor on and off to more slowly feed the PCBs.  After reading a little about synchronous motor speed changing, this seemed by far simplist method.  This model's 12"/min means 5 mm per second, which means the width of a PCB hole is covered in less than 200 ms.  After experimenting, I found the shortest possible on time for this motor and gear assembly without skipping is 150 ms, which is 9 times longer than 1 AC cycle of 17 ms which the motor can't even theoretically get down to.  So, I can make it feed 1 hole width and stop for however long I think the rubber next to the heating elements is not melting.  Others have said 4 or 5 passes is needed, so 4 times off-to-on ratio seems about right.  Maybe less since multiple pass allow cooling.  I'm drilling a hole in the laminator's plastic case to include a potentiometer adjustment to control the 555 circuit to go from the motor being constantly on (POT at zero, the "off" time) to about 4 times longer than the "on" time.  This has worked out a lot better than I expected, but I haven't tried it to see how bad it might create lines from stopping and starting.  It might depend mostly on the transfer method and chosen temperature.

My parts list, which I had on hand:
LMC 555NC to burn out before realizing my 12V adapter puts out 16.3V under low current conditions.

LM555 which can take 18V instead of 15V
12VDC relay capable of driving 6A 120VAC
1 uF for astable
220k for on time (150 ms)
1M pot off time (693 ms)
diode

Laminator ideas (untested :-).

> The digital temperature controller looks nice and hard to figure out

If you are ok with reading a manual you can work out most temperature controllers, it is a single setpoint so not rocket science.

The correct way to slow those tiny motors is to drop the frequency.
You would need to make a low wattage inverter and then use a mains:6V transformer backwards to drive the motor.  They will be happy with a square wave (or a three level sine wave approximation) as long as they do not over heat and this you can control with the voltage.  You should be able to control from 30 to 150% without too much trouble I recon. They are essentially el-cheapo stepper motors with one winding proken and could be replaced with a low voltage flat stepper and suitable drive circuit if you find a reasonable mechanical fit you gould sprice on to the input rotor shaft, a little stepper will not direct drive the rollers reliably.  It would let you run it fast when idle to have evenly distributed temperature and then run slowly at any speed you want to feed a board through.

The AC motors may give slightly erratic results if you use a stop start method to regulate the speed as they are usually single phase motors that start in either direction, there is a tiny little cam inside that causes the motor to hit a stop and bounce into the opposite direction half of the time when it starts, takes less than one turn of the rotor to engage so not likely to be much distance but still a random variable that might be better left out.

> Others have said 4 or 5 passes is needed, so 4 times off-to-on 
> ratio seems about right.  Maybe less since multiple pass allow 
> cooling.  

In one office I visited years ago they had a interesting laminator that had two sets of rollers with radiant heating between them, the rollers would also warm up, so the material was pushed and pulled carefully through.  With these home/office laminators it might make sense to put two of them one behind the other (lot of work), one would do the bulk of the heating of the substrate and the other would then squash the evenly heated stuff together, perhaps more pressure on the second roller.

Kalle
--
Johannesburg, South Africa

I thought a temp controller should be easier to figure out, and I guess once I had it in hand the 4 pages of instructions in the 8 page manual would convert from japanese to english. It might be interesting solve the riddle of what the following terms in the manual mean when programming it:

LBA deadband
autotuning
proportional band/cycle
integral time
derivative time
anti-reset windup
proportional cycle 

For example, I know what an integral is, but I don't understand their bad-English explanation: "eliminates offset occurring control is performed".   

I could not tell from ebay which controller I would be getting: what type of thermocouple it needed, if it included a thermocouple, and if it had a relay or voltage output, as determined by the unseeable extended model number.  I also could not tell from the contradicting manual if the relay was 1A or 3A at 240VAC, the second being enough for the heater, the first requiring my own relay. 

So, I put a switch on it and stuck in my MM thermocouple.

My ugly but simple control of the motor worked good.  No "jerk" lines showed in the final product.  I didn't have the parts on hand to change the frequency.  It seems to work better with 2 passes instead of one, another less perfect alternative to your double laminator.  The second pass could be made higher pressure as you suggest by using an aluminum plate, although this would reduce the heat. 

If I wasn't using a brother printer, the control of both temp and motor speed should allow 1 pass with good results, where I see others in the database using 3 to 12 passes with better printers and more expensive laminators (not including my time for the motor control circuit).  Maybe they are using paper that's less optimal than my press-n-peel.  I'll test the HP photo laser paper soon, and then maybe staples.

> I thought a temp controller should be easier to figure out, and I guess
once I had
> it in hand the 4 pages of instructions in the 8 page manual would convert
from
> japanese to english. It might be interesting solve the riddle of what the
following
> terms in the manual mean when programming it:
> 
> LBA deadband
> autotuning
> proportional band/cycle
> integral time
> derivative time
> anti-reset windup
> proportional cycle


Ignore everything bar autotuning - it sets most of those options for you.

They are pretty simple, but it's one of those things that's simple when you
know how, but in general you set the temperate you want, run autotune and
that's it.  You won't find a 'Dummies' guide, like most industrial stuff
you're supposed to know what you're doing if you buy one.

The manuals are generic and list every possible option, it's unlikely the
controller you buy supports it.  For example one I brought has a C/F degrees
display option, you can change it but it only shows Celcius (fine for me,
YMMV).  The $20 eBay ones are usually REX C100 series clones, Google will
find plenty of info.

For a laminator these are fine, bearing in mind the output is a 3A relay.

'LBA deadband' triggers an alarm if the controller detects the heater isn't
warming up fast enough, so for an oven maybe you left the door open or
something.  Nice but not something you really need.

Tony