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2011-10-07 by Boman33
How do I force the printing of, for example, pure magenta when the Windows printer driver only has R G B options? Bertho [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-10-07 by lists
In article <043501cc84ee$0bac35e0$2304a1a0$@...>, Boman33 <boman33@...> wrote: > How do I force the printing of, for example, pure magenta when the > Windows printer driver only has R G B options? A question that might be better asked at: comp.periphs.printers Not that there is anything fundamentally wrong in asking here and I'm not suggesting people here lack knowledge but that's were "the experts" hang out. -- Stuart Winsor
2011-10-07 by Boman33
Thanks Stuart, I will check there. My goal is to make high quality artwork for using with photo resist coated PCBs. Bertho ===============================
From: lists Sent: Friday, October 07, 2011 11:38 In article <043501cc84ee$0bac35e0$2304a1a0$@...>, Boman33 <boman33@...> wrote: > How do I force the printing of, for example, pure magenta when the > Windows printer driver only has R G B options? A question that might be better asked at: comp.periphs.printers Not that there is anything fundamentally wrong in asking here and I'm not suggesting people here lack knowledge but that's were "the experts" hang out. Stuart Winsor
2011-10-07 by Andrew Thornber
Hi, Basically you can't really! They are completely different colour spaces. At home we print/scan/view on our montiors using RGB (Red, Green, Blue). In commercial printing they use CMYK (Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black(K)). You might be able to get close to pure Cyan or Magenta with the RBG inks. For a full description try here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CMYK#Comparison_with_RGB_displays Personally if you need to print CMYK then have a look at photo printers as they print in the CMYK space. (It's oldish but to prove a point have a look at the Epson C82) Hope this helps... Kind regards, Andy On 7 October 2011 13:38, Boman33 <boman33@...> wrote: > ** > > > How do I force the printing of, for example, pure magenta when the Windows > printer driver only has R G B options? > > Bertho > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-10-07 by Boman33
Thanks Andy, The printer I have, Canon i9100, uses CMYK cartridges so it can print in pure CMYK colors. I should have included that info from the beginning. The printer drivers in Windows does the magic of going from RGB to the CMYK. I like to be able to force the printer to use a pure CMYK of my choice. Presumably I need to either fool the Windows drivers some way or use some other driver that allows independent control. Bertho
-----Original Message----- From: Andrew Thornber Sent: Friday, October 07, 2011 12:08 Hi, Basically you can't really! They are completely different colour spaces. At home we print/scan/view on our montiors using RGB (Red, Green, Blue). In commercial printing they use CMYK (Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black(K)). You might be able to get close to pure Cyan or Magenta with the RBG inks. For a full description try here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CMYK#Comparison_with_RGB_displays Personally if you need to print CMYK then have a look at photo printers as they print in the CMYK space. (It's oldish but to prove a point have a look at the Epson C82) Hope this helps... Kind regards, Andy
2011-10-07 by lists
In article <CAFgkapC58p0cp9Sik=AXAUPJx8=omhKzvTbz6rzQ1JZZzHmjDA@...>, Andrew Thornber <andrew.thornber@...> wrote: > Personally if you need to print CMYK then have a look at photo printers > as they print in the CMYK space. (It's oldish but to prove a point have > a look at the Epson C82) I think you will find that all printers, including "home" printers use CMYK. Certainly all the ink-jets I have owned did. The difference with the "photo" printers was that they used two further inks, paler versions of cyan and magenta usually, in order to achieve the delicacy of colour. One rather old piece of DTP software I have could produce the required CMYK separations as separate files on a disc for submission to a commercial printer. I guess it would have been possible just to print locally from one of these separations. Although of necessity it uses RGB to display stuff, Photoshop can use a variety of "colour spaces" internally but I'm not enough of an expert to know whether it can print the separate colours to a printer. However, photoshop is just a teeny bit expensive! -- Stuart Winsor
2011-10-07 by Piers Goodhew
See this thread for DJ Delorie's custom print software, which he uses to get more ink: http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/28718 (I'd guess it's linux only) PG
On 08/10/2011, at 8:21 AM, lists wrote: > In article > <CAFgkapC58p0cp9Sik=AXAUPJx8=omhKzvTbz6rzQ1JZZzHmjDA@mail.gmail.com>, > Andrew Thornber <andrew.thornber@...> wrote: > > > Personally if you need to print CMYK then have a look at photo printers > > as they print in the CMYK space. (It's oldish but to prove a point have > > a look at the Epson C82) > > I think you will find that all printers, including "home" printers use > CMYK. Certainly all the ink-jets I have owned did. The difference with the > "photo" printers was that they used two further inks, paler versions of > cyan and magenta usually, in order to achieve the delicacy of colour. > > One rather old piece of DTP software I have could produce the required > CMYK separations as separate files on a disc for submission to a > commercial printer. I guess it would have been possible just to print > locally from one of these separations. > > Although of necessity it uses RGB to display stuff, Photoshop can use a > variety of "colour spaces" internally but I'm not enough of an expert to > know whether it can print the separate colours to a printer. > > However, photoshop is just a teeny bit expensive! > > -- > Stuart Winsor > >
2011-10-07 by Donald H Locker
Triggered my memory - The Gimp (an image editing program) and Scribus (a desktop publishing program) both support CMYK colour spaces natively and will print in (or produce colour separations for) true process colour space. Both are free (free of licensing restrictions and free as in no $ need exchange hands) and work very well. Donald. -- *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "lists" <Stuartlists@...> > To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Friday, October 7, 2011 5:21:59 PM > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Forcing printing of Magenta or Cyan from RGB in Windows > In article > <CAFgkapC58p0cp9Sik=AXAUPJx8=omhKzvTbz6rzQ1JZZzHmjDA@...>, > Andrew Thornber <andrew.thornber@...> wrote: > > > Personally if you need to print CMYK then have a look at photo > > printers > > as they print in the CMYK space. (It's oldish but to prove a point > > have > > a look at the Epson C82) > > I think you will find that all printers, including "home" printers use > CMYK. Certainly all the ink-jets I have owned did. The difference with > the > "photo" printers was that they used two further inks, paler versions > of > cyan and magenta usually, in order to achieve the delicacy of colour. > > One rather old piece of DTP software I have could produce the required > CMYK separations as separate files on a disc for submission to a > commercial printer. I guess it would have been possible just to print > locally from one of these separations. > > Although of necessity it uses RGB to display stuff, Photoshop can use > a > variety of "colour spaces" internally but I'm not enough of an expert > to > know whether it can print the separate colours to a printer. > > However, photoshop is just a teeny bit expensive! > > -- > Stuart Winsor > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and > Photos: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > >
2011-10-09 by AlienRelics
Shouldn't we be having this discussion on Inkjet_PCB_Construction? Yes, all printers use CMYK or an expanded version. The most common are a light version of Cyan and Magenta, sometimes a "photo" black that may be a grey. They are usually indicated by lower-case letters such as CcMyYKk. Some expensive printers have additional colors, green and orange as they can be very hard colors to hit correctly. Some printers have additional shades of grey. These are all to avoid the appearance of visible ink dots in light and evenly colored areas, widen the color gamut (range of shades printable), and to avoid color and texture shifts. RGB only works for additive things like monitors. CMYK is subtractive. Add 100% Red, Green, and Blue on a screen and you get white, add the maximum Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Black and you get Black. Try mixing paints in Red, Green, and Blue, and you'll find there are many shades you can never get. Green and Blue only add to yellow if you are mixing light. Mix inks or paints, Green and Blue become a muddy dark green-blue color. The confusion likely stems from the fact that the printer driver for desktop printers only accepts files in RGB color space, then converts them to the printer ink color space. CMYK, CcMmYKk, etc. Separations won't help you - the separation, if printed on your home printer, will still be just an image file that will be printed as if it were an RGB color space file in black, which gets converted by the printer drive to the printer CMYK color space. Using CMYK within Photoshop can help a little, but ultimately all files printed first get converted to RGB before getting sent to the printer driver. What you really need is a RIP, but those tend to be expensive. There is Turboprint Studio, which I've not used since I had it on my Amiga 3000, but there is a version for Linux. The Amiga version of TurboPrint Studio 2 let you control every ink, so you could set it to print only in one particular ink. http://www.turboprint.info/ I see the programmer has a version for Windows and Mac called PrintFab. Appears to still be in beta testing. http://www.printfab.com/en/ You could also find a color in RGB that prints mostly magenta and/or cyan. BTW, the C82 is not a "photo" printer in the meaning of having the lighter color inks such as photo cyan and photo magenta. It is a four color CMYK printer. Still, the printer driver only accepts RGB image files and does the conversion to the printer's CMYK inkset. Steve Greenfield AE7HD --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, lists <Stuartlists@...> wrote:
> > In article > <CAFgkapC58p0cp9Sik=AXAUPJx8=omhKzvTbz6rzQ1JZZzHmjDA@...>, > Andrew Thornber <andrew.thornber@...> wrote: > > > Personally if you need to print CMYK then have a look at photo printers > > as they print in the CMYK space. (It's oldish but to prove a point have > > a look at the Epson C82) > > I think you will find that all printers, including "home" printers use > CMYK. Certainly all the ink-jets I have owned did. The difference with the > "photo" printers was that they used two further inks, paler versions of > cyan and magenta usually, in order to achieve the delicacy of colour. > > One rather old piece of DTP software I have could produce the required > CMYK separations as separate files on a disc for submission to a > commercial printer. I guess it would have been possible just to print > locally from one of these separations. > > Although of necessity it uses RGB to display stuff, Photoshop can use a > variety of "colour spaces" internally but I'm not enough of an expert to > know whether it can print the separate colours to a printer. > > However, photoshop is just a teeny bit expensive! > > -- > Stuart Winsor >
2011-10-09 by Boman33
Thanks Steve for replying. I also did ask the question on the Inkjet_PCB_Construction but there were no replies. Most work there appears to be aimed at direct printing on PCBs vs. creating an artwork and using photo resist. Your Amiga comment brings back memories of the original Amiga that I had. If color management is disabled in Windows and the printer driver, how can I find an RGB value for each of the CMY colors? I have spent the last day and a half measuring resolution and ink densities for different materials, settings on two different printers and some interesting and surprising info has been learned: In some cases, even if "gray scale" is selected the printer regardless uses color. For some paper types the gray scale option is not available. For some combinations the UV density is much worse than the visible spectrum density. Bertho ====================================
From: AlienRelics Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2011 09:33 Shouldn't we be having this discussion on Inkjet_PCB_Construction? Yes, all printers use CMYK or an expanded version. The most common are a light version of Cyan and Magenta, sometimes a "photo" black that may be a grey. They are usually indicated by lower-case letters such as CcMyYKk. Some expensive printers have additional colors, green and orange as they can be very hard colors to hit correctly. Some printers have additional shades of grey. These are all to avoid the appearance of visible ink dots in light and evenly colored areas, widen the color gamut (range of shades printable), and to avoid color and texture shifts. RGB only works for additive things like monitors. CMYK is subtractive. Add 100% Red, Green, and Blue on a screen and you get white, add the maximum Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Black and you get Black. Try mixing paints in Red, Green, and Blue, and you'll find there are many shades you can never get. Green and Blue only add to yellow if you are mixing light. Mix inks or paints, Green and Blue become a muddy dark green-blue color. The confusion likely stems from the fact that the printer driver for desktop printers only accepts files in RGB color space, then converts them to the printer ink color space. CMYK, CcMmYKk, etc. Separations won't help you - the separation, if printed on your home printer, will still be just an image file that will be printed as if it were an RGB color space file in black, which gets converted by the printer drive to the printer CMYK color space. Using CMYK within Photoshop can help a little, but ultimately all files printed first get converted to RGB before getting sent to the printer driver. What you really need is a RIP, but those tend to be expensive. There is Turboprint Studio, which I've not used since I had it on my Amiga 3000, but there is a version for Linux. The Amiga version of TurboPrint Studio 2 let you control every ink, so you could set it to print only in one particular ink. http://www.turboprint.info/ I see the programmer has a version for Windows and Mac called PrintFab. Appears to still be in beta testing. http://www.printfab.com/en/ You could also find a color in RGB that prints mostly magenta and/or cyan. BTW, the C82 is not a "photo" printer in the meaning of having the lighter color inks such as photo cyan and photo magenta. It is a four color CMYK printer. Still, the printer driver only accepts RGB image files and does the conversion to the printer's CMYK inkset. Steve Greenfield AE7HD [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-10-09 by Tony Smith
> If color management is disabled in Windows and the printer driver, how can I > find an RGB value for each of the CMY colors? Here's a calculator: http://www.usq.edu.au/users/grantd/WORK/216color/ConvertRGB-CMYK-Grey.htm There's no guarantee that using solid colours in RGB (eg Cyan is Red=0, Green=255 & Blue=255) will give you pure CMYK colours when printed though. Easy enough to find out I suppose. Tony
2011-10-09 by Boman33
Thanks Tony, that is what I was looking for. Bertho ======================
From: Tony Smith Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2011 16:41 > If color management is disabled in Windows and the printer driver, how can I find an RGB value for each of the CMY colors? Here's a calculator: http://www.usq.edu.au/users/grantd/WORK/216color/ConvertRGB-CMYK-Grey.htm There's no guarantee that using solid colours in RGB (eg Cyan is Red=0, Green=255 & Blue=255) will give you pure CMYK colours when printed though. Easy enough to find out I suppose. Tony [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-10-09 by Bob Headrick
That should be useful, at least as a start. Typically the driver will tweak things a bit to deal with various things like media settings and the specific inks used. Using the calculator as a start and then perhaps iterating by printing the calculated color and adjusting as needed to remove any stray undesired colors should work. - Bob Headrick
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tony Smith Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2011 1:41 PM To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Forcing printing of Magenta or Cyan from RGB in Windows > If color management is disabled in Windows and the printer driver, how can I > find an RGB value for each of the CMY colors? Here's a calculator: http://www.usq.edu.au/users/grantd/WORK/216color/ConvertRGB-CMYK-Grey.htm There's no guarantee that using solid colours in RGB (eg Cyan is Red=0, Green=255 & Blue=255) will give you pure CMYK colours when printed though. Easy enough to find out I suppose. Tony [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-10-09 by Boman33
Thanks again Steve, The PrintFab installed and works just fine on Windows 7. I have been playing with it and it gives me additional ink control which is what I wanted. I need to read more of the manual to be comfortable with all the options. Great find! Bertho ==================================== From AlienRelics Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2011 09:33 ----------< snip What you really need is a RIP, but those tend to be expensive. There is Turboprint Studio, which I've not used since I had it on my Amiga 3000, but there is a version for Linux. The Amiga version of TurboPrint Studio 2 let you control every ink, so you could set it to print only in one particular ink. http://www.turboprint.info/ I see the programmer has a version for Windows and Mac called PrintFab. Appears to still be in beta testing. http://www.printfab.com/en/
2011-10-10 by Michael
I too found that group to be fairly in active. That's why I joined here ... looks like there is life/activity here.... Im still looking for a printer for direct resist printing ... .im going to try a method I read about that after you print you heat the pcb to aprox 200deg for 5a min to set the ink ... I was hopeful to find a comprehensive list .... but im missing it if it exists. Mike KC7NOA --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote:
> > Thanks Steve for replying. > > I also did ask the question on the Inkjet_PCB_Construction but there were no > replies. Most work there appears to be aimed at direct printing on PCBs vs. > creating an artwork and using photo resist. > > > > Your Amiga comment brings back memories of the original Amiga that I had. > > > > If color management is disabled in Windows and the printer driver, how can I > find an RGB value for each of the CMY colors? > > > > I have spent the last day and a half measuring resolution and ink densities > for different materials, settings on two different printers and some > interesting and surprising info has been learned: > > In some cases, even if "gray scale" is selected the printer regardless uses > color. > > For some paper types the gray scale option is not available. > > For some combinations the UV density is much worse than the visible spectrum > density. > > Bertho > > ==================================== > > From: AlienRelics Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2011 09:33 > Shouldn't we be having this discussion on Inkjet_PCB_Construction? > > Yes, all printers use CMYK or an expanded version. The most common are a > light version of Cyan and Magenta, sometimes a "photo" black that may be a > grey. They are usually indicated by lower-case letters such as CcMyYKk. Some > expensive printers have additional colors, green and orange as they can be > very hard colors to hit correctly. Some printers have additional shades of > grey. These are all to avoid the appearance of visible ink dots in light and > evenly colored areas, widen the color gamut (range of shades printable), and > to avoid color and texture shifts. > > RGB only works for additive things like monitors. CMYK is subtractive. Add > 100% Red, Green, and Blue on a screen and you get white, add the maximum > Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Black and you get Black. Try mixing paints in > Red, Green, and Blue, and you'll find there are many shades you can never > get. Green and Blue only add to yellow if you are mixing light. Mix inks or > paints, Green and Blue become a muddy dark green-blue color. > > The confusion likely stems from the fact that the printer driver for desktop > printers only accepts files in RGB color space, then converts them to the > printer ink color space. CMYK, CcMmYKk, etc. > > Separations won't help you - the separation, if printed on your home > printer, will still be just an image file that will be printed as if it were > an RGB color space file in black, which gets converted by the printer drive > to the printer CMYK color space. > > Using CMYK within Photoshop can help a little, but ultimately all files > printed first get converted to RGB before getting sent to the printer > driver. > > What you really need is a RIP, but those tend to be expensive. There is > Turboprint Studio, which I've not used since I had it on my Amiga 3000, but > there is a version for Linux. The Amiga version of TurboPrint Studio 2 let > you control every ink, so you could set it to print only in one particular > ink. > http://www.turboprint.info/ > > I see the programmer has a version for Windows and Mac called PrintFab. > Appears to still be in beta testing. > http://www.printfab.com/en/ > > You could also find a color in RGB that prints mostly magenta and/or cyan. > > BTW, the C82 is not a "photo" printer in the meaning of having the lighter > color inks such as photo cyan and photo magenta. It is a four color CMYK > printer. Still, the printer driver only accepts RGB image files and does the > conversion to the printer's CMYK inkset. > > Steve Greenfield AE7HD > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >
2011-10-12 by James Newton
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Michael" <Patriot121@...> wrote: > > > I too found that group to be fairly in active. That's why I joined here ... looks like there is life/activity here.... > > Im still looking for a printer for direct resist printing ... .im going to try a method I read about that after you print you heat the pcb to aprox 200deg for 5a min to set the ink ... > > I was hopeful to find a comprehensive list .... but im missing it if it exists. > > Mike KC7NOA > A comprehensive list of printers know to be usable for direct inkjet resist printing is right here: http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcb/etch/directinkjetresist.htm under the heading "Printer Modifications". I'll even copy the text in to this post to make Don happy: Barry Cooper^ reports^ that Epson R2400 (replaced by the R2880) can print on flat stock so no modification of the printer is required. It uses ultra chrome k3 ink which resists etchant if fully cured. Barry says: "I am currently using 1/16" [PCB stock]. I made a carrier from a for sale sign and a sheet of the colored plastic card that is kept right next to the for sale signs at home depot. The 2 together add up to 1/16 inch. They are plastic and are therefor durable and can be taped to, and the tape removed without damage. I printed on to paper first, then taped the 2 plastic cards together with the paper print on top. Then I cut out the card to the dimensions of the paper and cut the board hole out. Then I pulled of the paper print and taped all 8 edges together, then a piece of paper to the bottom of the card. I am able to drop the board into the hole and it indexes perfectly every time. I use a small piece of tape to hold the top and bottom edge of the board, The carrier fits through the printer with room to spare. My guess is I could go another 1/32 thicker. Last night I printed in black at only 25% density. Dried the board at 275 degrees for 10 mins then re printed at the same density. Flipped the board and did the same for the other side then oven dried the complete board for 30 mins at 275, It is necessary to let the board cool before re printing as at 275 the ink is like a soft plastic. I then etched with acid and had a fantastic result. Bazza says "Epson R2400 takes a board up to a4 size straight into it. Print in black and white at 50% Then oven dry at 275 for 10 mins. then re print at 50% and re oven dry, perfect results with zero mods required." CD/DVD printing trays. (make small PCB's with NO modification!) Artisan 50, Stylus RX580, RX595, RX680, R260, R280, R285, R290, R380 don't really need to be modified, just cut out the CD/DVD spindel in the tray so the PCB can lie flat. This allows PCB's up to about 3x5". For larger PCB's or other printers, modification allows full sized PCB's to be fed as flat stock: C84 by Stefen Trethan C87 by epineh^ C88 by wnnelson CX4200 by Volkan Sahin. Volkan has also produced a custom flatbed inkjet direct PCB resist printer of his own design, using the heads from an Epson Inkjet. R220 or R2xx series by Bora Dikman Artisan 50 by Richard Liberatoscioli T20 by ScottA
2011-10-12 by MIKE DURKIN
Thank you .. Looks like I'll need to concentrate on the CD/DVD tray type printers simply due to cost, but will keep my eye out for a R2xx series ... To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
From: jamesmichaelnewton@...
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 16:31:11 +0000
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Forcing printing of Magenta or Cyan from RGB in Windows
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Michael" <Patriot121@...> wrote:
>
>
> I too found that group to be fairly in active. That's why I joined here ... looks like there is life/activity here....
>
> Im still looking for a printer for direct resist printing ... .im going to try a method I read about that after you print you heat the pcb to aprox 200deg for 5a min to set the ink ...
>
> I was hopeful to find a comprehensive list .... but im missing it if it exists.
>
> Mike KC7NOA
>
A comprehensive list of printers know to be usable for direct inkjet resist printing is right here:
http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcb/etch/directinkjetresist.htm under the heading "Printer Modifications". I'll even copy the text in to this post to make Don happy:
Barry Cooper^ reports^ that Epson R2400 (replaced by the R2880) can print on flat stock so no modification of the printer is required. It uses ultra chrome k3 ink which resists etchant if fully cured. Barry says:
"I am currently using 1/16" [PCB stock]. I made a carrier from a for sale sign and a sheet of the colored plastic card that is kept right next to the for sale signs at home depot. The 2 together add up to 1/16 inch. They are plastic and are therefor durable and can be taped to, and the tape removed without damage. I printed on to paper first, then taped the 2 plastic cards together with the paper print on top. Then I cut out the card to the dimensions of the paper and cut the board hole out. Then I pulled of the paper print and taped all 8 edges together, then a piece of paper to the bottom of the card. I am able to drop the board into the hole and it indexes perfectly every time. I use a small piece of tape to hold the top and bottom edge of the board, The carrier fits through the printer with room to spare. My guess is I could go another 1/32 thicker.
Last night I printed in black at only 25% density. Dried the board at 275 degrees for 10 mins then re printed at the same density. Flipped the board and did the same for the other side then oven dried the complete board for 30 mins at 275, It is necessary to let the board cool before re printing as at 275 the ink is like a soft plastic. I then etched with acid and had a fantastic result.
Bazza says "Epson R2400 takes a board up to a4 size straight into it. Print in black and white at 50% Then oven dry at 275 for 10 mins. then re print at 50% and re oven dry, perfect results with zero mods required."
CD/DVD printing trays. (make small PCB's with NO modification!) Artisan 50, Stylus RX580, RX595, RX680, R260, R280, R285, R290, R380 don't really need to be modified, just cut out the CD/DVD spindel in the tray so the PCB can lie flat. This allows PCB's up to about 3x5".
For larger PCB's or other printers, modification allows full sized PCB's to be fed as flat stock:
C84 by Stefen Trethan
C87 by epineh^
C88 by wnnelson
CX4200 by Volkan Sahin. Volkan has also produced a custom flatbed inkjet direct PCB resist printer of his own design, using the heads from an Epson Inkjet.
R220 or R2xx series by Bora Dikman
Artisan 50 by Richard Liberatoscioli
T20 by ScottA
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]2011-10-13 by Donald H Locker
1. My name is Donald. 2. Nothing makes me happier than having information archived in an organised manner. I said earlier that collecting information in one place is a good thing. But I can't find things in massminds, so I don't go there. I don't understand what the organisation is and I find it cluttered. Putting the same information you included in this message into a file would have been helpful, permanent and allowed first time visitors to find it without guessing what keywords to search the lists archives with and dig through thousands of messages. No, I won't put that information into a file - it's from massminds, so it's not mine to reproduce. JMO. (and my last word on the subject.) Donald. -- *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Newton" <jamesmichaelnewton@...> > To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2011 12:31:11 PM > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Forcing printing of Magenta or Cyan from RGB in Windows > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Michael" <Patriot121@...> > wrote: > > > > > > I too found that group to be fairly in active. That's why I joined > > here ... looks like there is life/activity here.... > > > > Im still looking for a printer for direct resist printing ... .im > > going to try a method I read about that after you print you heat the > > pcb to aprox 200deg for 5a min to set the ink ... > > > > I was hopeful to find a comprehensive list .... but im missing it if > > it exists. > > > > Mike KC7NOA > > > > A comprehensive list of printers know to be usable for direct inkjet > resist printing is right here: > http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcb/etch/directinkjetresist.htm > under the heading "Printer Modifications". I'll even copy the text in > to this post to make Don happy: > > Barry Cooper^ reports^ that Epson R2400 (replaced by the R2880) can > print on flat stock so no modification of the printer is required. It > uses ultra chrome k3 ink which resists etchant if fully cured. Barry > says: > > "I am currently using 1/16" [PCB stock]. I made a carrier from a for > sale sign and a sheet of the colored plastic card that is kept right > next to the for sale signs at home depot. The 2 together add up to > 1/16 inch. They are plastic and are therefor durable and can be taped > to, and the tape removed without damage. I printed on to paper first, > then taped the 2 plastic cards together with the paper print on top. > Then I cut out the card to the dimensions of the paper and cut the > board hole out. Then I pulled of the paper print and taped all 8 edges > together, then a piece of paper to the bottom of the card. I am able > to drop the board into the hole and it indexes perfectly every time. I > use a small piece of tape to hold the top and bottom edge of the > board, The carrier fits through the printer with room to spare. My > guess is I could go another 1/32 thicker. > Last night I printed in black at only 25% density. Dried the board at > 275 degrees for 10 mins then re printed at the same density. Flipped > the board and did the same for the other side then oven dried the > complete board for 30 mins at 275, It is necessary to let the board > cool before re printing as at 275 the ink is like a soft plastic. I > then etched with acid and had a fantastic result. > > Bazza says "Epson R2400 takes a board up to a4 size straight into it. > Print in black and white at 50% Then oven dry at 275 for 10 mins. then > re print at 50% and re oven dry, perfect results with zero mods > required." > > CD/DVD printing trays. (make small PCB's with NO modification!) > Artisan 50, Stylus RX580, RX595, RX680, R260, R280, R285, R290, R380 > don't really need to be modified, just cut out the CD/DVD spindel in > the tray so the PCB can lie flat. This allows PCB's up to about 3x5". > > For larger PCB's or other printers, modification allows full sized > PCB's to be fed as flat stock: > > C84 by Stefen Trethan > C87 by epineh^ > C88 by wnnelson > CX4200 by Volkan Sahin. Volkan has also produced a custom flatbed > inkjet direct PCB resist printer of his own design, using the heads > from an Epson Inkjet. > R220 or R2xx series by Bora Dikman > Artisan 50 by Richard Liberatoscioli > T20 by ScottA > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and > Photos: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > >
2011-10-13 by Tim Hills
If you don't like it, you can't have any. Grumpy Old Man. On 10/12/2011 19:18, Donald H Locker wrote: > > 1. My name is Donald. > 2. Nothing makes me happier than having information archived in an > organised manner. > > I said earlier that collecting information in one place is a good > thing. But I can't find things in massminds, so I don't go there. I > don't understand what the organisation is and I find it cluttered. > Putting the same information you included in this message into a file > would have been helpful, permanent and allowed first time visitors to > find it without guessing what keywords to search the lists archives > with and dig through thousands of messages. > > No, I won't put that information into a file - it's from massminds, so > it's not mine to reproduce. > > JMO. (and my last word on the subject.) > Donald. > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]