Homebrew PCBs

My goal is to make accurate artwork for working with photoresist PCBs.
What suggestions do you have to make as high contrast (solid black) art work
as possible?  It could be inkjet (preferably) or Laser Jet.

What software driver to use to get better ink control and resolution than
the standard printer drivers?

I tried a Canon i9100 with both JetStar and Pictorico Premium OHP
transparency film.
The paper selection setting was the recommended Photo Paper Pro, highest
quality printing and max ink density.
The Pictorico worked best but I like to be able to get a more solid black.

Epson vs.  Canon: any significant advantage of either one?
TIA for any suggestions.
Bertho

Making PCB for the FTDI Vinculum 2 Chip    youtu.be/qK6DKbzm024



>________________________________
>From: garydeal <garydeal@...>
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 7:52 PM
>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Solid black artwork
>
>
> 
>   
> 
>
>I've used a cheap Epson printer with the drivers that came with the 
>printer. The black from the inkjet was much denser (opaque) than anything 
>I've been able to get out of several laser printers, including a $12k 
>Sharp.
>
>I used plain cheap copier paper, although the slightly heavier 
>"laser printer" paper worked about as well and could hold finer detail. I 
>used whatever settings were available for maximum black - and black only, 
>no multicolor imitations of black, get the print as dense as possible. 
>The parent image should be black/white only, no color, no grayscale, etc.
>
>The thing that seemed to make a big difference for me was rubbing a 
>little vegetable oil on both sides of the paper, giving it a few minutes 
>to soak in, then blotting it dry-ish. The paper would then transmit more 
>light, while the black areas seemed to transmit less light. I've then 
>used the oiled paper mask as the photo master for the resist (print side 
>to the resist), as well as using it to make a litho film master - it was 
>a handy way to whip up a one-off master before the inkjet died.
>
>Something to try, anyway. Now I have to do a bunch of darkroom work 
>to get a decent master from a laser print.
>
>I'm not sure how much UV various vegetable oils might absorb, but 
>never use gelatin.
>
>Good luck with the project,
>-Gary
>
>
>>My goal is to make accurate artwork for working with photoresist PCBs.
>>What suggestions do you have to make as high contrast (solid black) art work
>>as possible?  It could be inkjet (preferably) or Laser Jet.
>>
>>What software driver to use to get better ink control and resolution than
>>the standard printer drivers?
>>
>>I tried a Canon i9100 with both JetStar and Pictorico Premium OHP
>>transparency film.
>>The paper selection setting was the recommended Photo Paper Pro, highest
>>quality printing and max ink density.
>>The Pictorico worked best but I like to be able to get a more solid black.
>>
>>Epson vs.  Canon: any significant advantage of either one?
>>TIA for any suggestions.
>>Bertho
>   
>      
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I've used a cheap Epson printer with the drivers that came with the 
printer. The black from the inkjet was much denser (opaque) than anything 
I've been able to get out of several laser printers, including a $12k 
Sharp.

     I used plain cheap copier paper, although the slightly heavier 
"laser printer" paper worked about as well and could hold finer detail. I 
used whatever settings were available for maximum black - and black only, 
no multicolor imitations of black, get the print as dense as possible. 
The parent image should be black/white only, no color, no grayscale, etc.

     The thing that seemed to make a big difference for me was rubbing a 
little vegetable oil on both sides of the paper, giving it a few minutes 
to soak in, then blotting it dry-ish. The paper would then transmit more 
light, while the black areas seemed to transmit less light. I've then 
used the oiled paper mask as the photo master for the resist (print side 
to the resist), as well as using it to make a litho film master - it was 
a handy way to whip up a one-off master before the inkjet died.

     Something to try, anyway. Now I have to do a bunch of darkroom work 
to get a decent master from a laser print.

     I'm not sure how much UV various vegetable oils might absorb, but 
never use gelatin.

     Good luck with the project,
     -Gary

>My goal is to make accurate artwork for working with photoresist PCBs.
>What suggestions do you have to make as high contrast (solid black) art work
>as possible?  It could be inkjet (preferably) or Laser Jet.
>
>What software driver to use to get better ink control and resolution than
>the standard printer drivers?
>
>I tried a Canon i9100 with both JetStar and Pictorico Premium OHP
>transparency film.
>The paper selection setting was the recommended Photo Paper Pro, highest
>quality printing and max ink density.
>The Pictorico worked best but I like to be able to get a more solid black.
>
>Epson vs.  Canon: any significant advantage of either one?
>TIA for any suggestions.
>Bertho

FWIW

I use an Epson Acculaser C8600   and the black is very very black

far better than any other printer I have used..

results are perfect for optical or toner transfer..

expensive to buy, even used though...

Chris

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, garydeal <garydeal@...> wrote:

>
> 
>      I've used a cheap Epson printer with the drivers that came with the 
> printer. The black from the inkjet was much denser (opaque) than anything 
> I've been able to get out of several laser printers, including a $12k 
> Sharp.
> 
>      I used plain cheap copier paper, although the slightly heavier 
> "laser printer" paper worked about as well and could hold finer detail. I 
> used whatever settings were available for maximum black - and black only, 
> no multicolor imitations of black, get the print as dense as possible. 
> The parent image should be black/white only, no color, no grayscale, etc.
> 
>      The thing that seemed to make a big difference for me was rubbing a 
> little vegetable oil on both sides of the paper, giving it a few minutes 
> to soak in, then blotting it dry-ish. The paper would then transmit more 
> light, while the black areas seemed to transmit less light. I've then 
> used the oiled paper mask as the photo master for the resist (print side 
> to the resist), as well as using it to make a litho film master - it was 
> a handy way to whip up a one-off master before the inkjet died.
> 
>      Something to try, anyway. Now I have to do a bunch of darkroom work 
> to get a decent master from a laser print.
> 
>      I'm not sure how much UV various vegetable oils might absorb, but 
> never use gelatin.
> 
>      Good luck with the project,
>      -Gary
>      
> 
> 
> 
> 
> >My goal is to make accurate artwork for working with photoresist PCBs.
> >What suggestions do you have to make as high contrast (solid black) art work
> >as possible?  It could be inkjet (preferably) or Laser Jet.
> >
> >What software driver to use to get better ink control and resolution than
> >the standard printer drivers?
> >
> >I tried a Canon i9100 with both JetStar and Pictorico Premium OHP
> >transparency film.
> >The paper selection setting was the recommended Photo Paper Pro, highest
> >quality printing and max ink density.
> >The Pictorico worked best but I like to be able to get a more solid black.
> >
> >Epson vs.  Canon: any significant advantage of either one?
> >TIA for any suggestions.
> >Bertho
>

I use a cheap HP DeskJet 5940 printer (about \ufffd60) with JetStar Premium 
film for photo-etch transparencies, and get excellent results.

Leon
-- 
Leon Heller
G1HSM