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2011-08-29 by thegimp98
First board came out usable, but I have a problem. I'm using 3M Transparency film for Inkjet Printers (CG3480) with a HP D4260 printer to make my masks. I fount microscopic pinholes in the traces which I traced to microscopic balls in the mask. At $50 for 50 sheets I can't recommend it. Is there a better film for inkjet printers? TKS. Steven
2011-08-30 by DJ Delorie
I've been using JetStar films with an Epson R280 and some custom software with good results. Are you *sure* the problem is the film, and not in the inkjet's dithering pattern? The reason I use custom software is to completely control the drop pattern.
2011-08-30 by Andrew Leech
On 29/08/2011 1:56 PM, thegimp98 wrote: > > First board came out usable, but I have a problem. > > I'm using 3M Transparency film for Inkjet Printers (CG3480) with a HP > D4260 printer to make my masks. > > I fount microscopic pinholes in the traces which I traced to > microscopic balls in the mask. > > At $50 for 50 sheets I can't recommend it. > > Is there a better film for inkjet printers? > > TKS. > > Steven > > > Did you try a variety of other printer settings? Different quality settings (photo/best/draft) and paper type settings will result in different ink densities, it'd be worth trying a few of these also. Andrew [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-08-30 by Boman33
Did you write the custom software yourself and or do you know where it is available? Bertho ====================== From: DJ Delorie Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 21:14 I've been using JetStar films with an Epson R280 and some custom software with good results. Are you *sure* the problem is the film, and not in the inkjet's dithering pattern? The reason I use custom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-08-30 by DJ Delorie
"Boman33" <boman33@...> writes: > Did you write the custom software yourself and or do you know where it is > available? Yes, it's for ESC/P2 printers. http://www.delorie.com/pcb/pbm2escp2.zip It's just a printer driver - converts bitmaps (PBM) to epson-specific control sequences. The only real difference is that it doesn't have the same dithering functions as regular drivers - it puts down a 100% solid pattern, which only works with the UV films with fast-drying coatings on them.
2011-08-30 by gulick_steve
Hi What do you suggest for "the UV films with fast-drying coatings on them"? What about choice of ink for the densest printing? Thanks - Steve --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, DJ Delorie <dj@...> wrote:
> > > "Boman33" <boman33@...> writes: > > Did you write the custom software yourself and or do you know where it is > > available? > > Yes, it's for ESC/P2 printers. > > http://www.delorie.com/pcb/pbm2escp2.zip > > It's just a printer driver - converts bitmaps (PBM) to epson-specific > control sequences. The only real difference is that it doesn't have the > same dithering functions as regular drivers - it puts down a 100% solid > pattern, which only works with the UV films with fast-drying coatings on > them. >
2011-08-30 by Leon Heller
On 29/08/2011 04:56, thegimp98 wrote: > First board came out usable, but I have a problem. > > I'm using 3M Transparency film for Inkjet Printers (CG3480) with a HP D4260 printer to make my masks. > > I fount microscopic pinholes in the traces which I traced to microscopic balls in the mask. > > At $50 for 50 sheets I can't recommend it. > > Is there a better film for inkjet printers? I get excellent results with JetStar Premium film from Mega Electronics (UK). Leon -- Leon Heller G1HSM
2011-08-30 by DJ Delorie
"gulick_steve" <sgulick@...> writes: > What do you suggest for "the UV films with fast-drying coatings on > them"? What about choice of ink for the densest printing? If you can affort JetStar Premium, it's the best. With that, I can do 100% coverage with the R280's Claria inks and get a nearly perfect image. With JetStar Standard, I reduce the amount of ink to 50% away from the edges (i.e. full coverage along the edge, with a 50% fill) as it doesn't quite dry as fast. Still get nearly perfect images though, and no pinholes (imagine a 2800 DPI checkerboard pattern for the fill).
2011-09-02 by Ben L
Use Transparencies that list for use with HP printer. I have gotten the best results using HP Transparencies. Also gotten OK results using Office Depot inkjet transparency that does list compatibility with HP inkjet. The HP one have worked best for me. Be sure you select the printers setting for the Transparency, Also if your printer will allow you to set the printer ink to Heavy or any settings that will increase the amount of ink the printer puts down. Also yellow or green has better blocking to UV than Black. Ben --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "thegimp98" <the_gimp98@...> wrote:
> > First board came out usable, but I have a problem. > > I'm using 3M Transparency film for Inkjet Printers (CG3480) with a HP D4260 printer to make my masks. > > I fount microscopic pinholes in the traces which I traced to microscopic balls in the mask. > > At $50 for 50 sheets I can't recommend it. > > Is there a better film for inkjet printers? > > TKS. > > Steven >
2011-09-02 by Vicent Colomar Prats
All I can say, in my experience, is laser printers do a better job than inkjet. They do not need special transparency films and cure (dry) inmediatly. I never used other drivers than stock. A thing I noticed is, altought black inkjet print seems more consistent than laser, results are poore compared both. Thanks for info on green and yellow are better on uv blocking than black, I never tried, maybe give a try next time. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-09-02 by DJ Delorie
Vicent Colomar Prats <vicentecolomar@...> writes: > All I can say, in my experience, is laser printers do a better job than > inkjet. They do not need special transparency films and cure (dry) > inmediatly. I never used other drivers than stock. A thing I noticed is, > altought black inkjet print seems more consistent than laser, results are > poore compared both. I can do 10/10 or 8/8 with toner or 5/5 with inkjet, but inkjet is far more reliable if you use the coated films. > Thanks for info on green and yellow are better on uv blocking than black, I > never tried, maybe give a try next time. Note: test your inks before deciding. For my claria inks, green is useless and yellow doesn't dry fast enough - only black works.
2011-09-02 by Jeff Heiss
DJ, what model laser printer do you use for print to transparences? Jeff
-----Original Message----- From: DJ Delorie <dj@...> Sent: Friday, September 02, 2011 11:04 AM To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: FIrst Board a success Vicent Colomar Prats <vicentecolomar@...> writes: > All I can say, in my experience, is laser printers do a better job than > inkjet. They do not need special transparency films and cure (dry) > inmediatly. I never used other drivers than stock. A thing I noticed is, > altought black inkjet print seems more consistent than laser, results are > poore compared both. I can do 10/10 or 8/8 with toner or 5/5 with inkjet, but inkjet is far more reliable if you use the coated films. > Thanks for info on green and yellow are better on uv blocking than black, I > never tried, maybe give a try next time. Note: test your inks before deciding. For my claria inks, green is useless and yellow doesn't dry fast enough - only black works. [The entire original message is not included] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-09-02 by DJ Delorie
Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...> writes: > DJ, what model laser printer do you use for print to transparences? I don't, I was referring to toner transfer. I've never had any luck with laser UV films; the light goes right through the toner.
2011-09-02 by Leon Heller
On 02/09/2011 18:57, DJ Delorie wrote: > > Jeff Heiss<jeff.heiss@...> writes: >> DJ, what model laser printer do you use for print to transparences? > > I don't, I was referring to toner transfer. I've never had any luck > with laser UV films; the light goes right through the toner. I used to use an HP laser printer with Mega Electronics LaserStar film for transparencies. It worked quite well. Leon -- Leon Heller G1HSM
2011-09-02 by Paul Whatton
Me too. LaserStar produces good results with my Canon laser printer. I also use laser printer overhead projector transparency film which is much cheaper. Free even if you know a friendly school or college who has some they don't use any more. OHP film doesn't stay as flat as Laser Star and isn't so good for fine detail work. I've made some PCBs using both today. OHP film was fine for the capacitor stack for a 2.5kV linear amplifer PSU. Big tracks with very wide spaces! But I used LaserStar for the amplifier logic control board layout. The last of my etchant is exhausted this evening which is really frustrating because I have just one more board to make! Regards Paul G4DCV On 02/09/2011 22:34, Leon Heller wrote: > > On 02/09/2011 18:57, DJ Delorie wrote: > > > > Jeff Heiss<jeff.heiss@... <mailto:jeff.heiss%40comcast.net>> > writes: > >> DJ, what model laser printer do you use for print to transparences? > > > > I don't, I was referring to toner transfer. I've never had any luck > > with laser UV films; the light goes right through the toner. > > I used to use an HP laser printer with Mega Electronics LaserStar film > for transparencies. It worked quite well. > > Leon > -- > Leon Heller > G1HSM > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-09-03 by DJ Delorie
Paul Whatton <paul@...> writes: > Big tracks with very wide spaces! With big traces I think any technique would work. I tend to need smaller ones (0.5mm pitch is standard for my projects). > The last of my etchant is exhausted this evening which is really > frustrating because I have just one more board to make! Do you have access to HCl and H2O2? The first can be found at some hardware stores in the paint dept (it's for cleaning concrete before painting) or at pool supply stores (it decreases pH). The second can be found at any drug store or supermarket. Some etchants can be "boosted" with just H2O2, also.
2011-09-03 by alex4459jopiklal44
> > Thanks for info on green and yellow are better on uv blocking than black, I > > never tried, maybe give a try next time. > > Note: test your inks before deciding. For my claria inks, green is > useless and yellow doesn't dry fast enough - only black works. > Funny .. I got a Cannon inkjet this year..its the red or magenta that gives the best result .. when printing on transparancy with red in best Quality I have not seen any faults..I made 20 films and had not any problems at all.. alex
2011-09-03 by Ben L
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, DJ Delorie <dj@...> wrote: > Note: test your inks before deciding. For my claria inks, green is > useless and yellow doesn't dry fast enough - only black works. > Inkjets & Inks designed for printing photos seem to work best.
2011-09-03 by Ben L
> Me too. LaserStar produces good results with my Canon laser printer. I > also use laser printer overhead projector transparency film which is > much cheaper. Free even if you know a friendly school or college who has > some they don't use any more. OHP film doesn't stay as flat as Laser > Star and isn't so good for fine detail work. I've made some PCBs using > both today. OHP film was fine for the capacitor stack for a 2.5kV linear > amplifer PSU. Big tracks with very wide spaces! But I used LaserStar for > the amplifier logic control board layout. I don't use Laser but what I have hear is that you can have shrinkage due to the heat of the Laser Printing. Ben
2011-09-04 by Tony Smith
> I don't use Laser but what I have hear is that you can have shrinkage due to > the heat of the Laser Printing. Paper has moisture in it, so it dries out when run through the fuser. The trick is to run it through a couple of times, then print on it. Tony
2011-09-05 by Vicent Colomar Prats
I use laser on transparencies only, never did toner transfer, and when I made inkjet transparencies always used black ink with stock windows drivers. With that setup, using positive boards, I always obtained better results with laser. One advantage with laser is you do not have to worrie about what kind of transparencies to buy, as it works with many, opposed to inkjet they need special ones, and they also need time to cure. As there are virtually tons of diferent models of printers (laser and inkjet) I assume very different results can also be obtained with diferent setups. I always used an HP Laserjet 1010 for laser and some HP and Epson for inkjet. I used APLI transparencies for inkjet (thats what I can get in local stores). After printing with both systems, inkjet looks darker and deeper (looks more consistent) than laser. But when all process is finished you discover laser made a better job blockin UV light. Some of you >> I don't use Laser but what I have hear is that you can have shrinkage due > to >> the heat of the Laser Printing. > > Paper has moisture in it, so it dries out when run through the fuser. The > trick is to run it through a couple of times, then print on it. > > Tony > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-10-09 by AlienRelics
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "alex4459jopiklal44" <christiansen_alex@...> wrote: > > > > > > Thanks for info on green and yellow are better on uv blocking than black, I > > > never tried, maybe give a try next time. > > > > Note: test your inks before deciding. For my claria inks, green is > > useless and yellow doesn't dry fast enough - only black works. > > > > Funny .. > I got a Cannon inkjet this year..its the red or magenta that gives the best result .. when printing on transparancy with red in best Quality > I have not seen any faults..I made 20 films and had not any problems at all.. > alex > Red or magenta? They are not the same things. I presume you mean that you create the image file in Red? Which Canon printer is it? Steve Greenfield AE7HD
2011-10-10 by alex4459jopiklal44
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "AlienRelics" <alienrelics@...> wrote: > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "alex4459jopiklal44" <christiansen_alex@> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Thanks for info on green and yellow are better on uv blocking than black, I > > > > never tried, maybe give a try next time. > > > > > > Note: test your inks before deciding. For my claria inks, green is > > > useless and yellow doesn't dry fast enough - only black works. > > > > > > > Funny .. > > I got a Cannon inkjet this year..its the red or magenta that gives the best result .. when printing on transparancy with red in best Quality > > I have not seen any faults..I made 20 films and had not any problems at all.. > > alex > > > > Red or magenta? They are not the same things. I presume you mean that you create the image file in Red? > > Which Canon printer is it? > > Steve Greenfield AE7HD > hi Steve yes you are right, I used the red in Target 3000 and in Eagle for board and pads and then printed it in the highest quality on transparants (printfit and Dataline is the names of two types I had purchased in supermarkets and used ). the printer is the IP 4850 I tried first with different colors, as black was not ok ,at least for the transparants I used . blue yellow and green gave very good prints but the UV came throug and made a lot og small holes. but red did stop the UV very good. I have made a small pcb test board with 5mil traces ..not any problems..maybe there was also a bit luck with it.. alex