Homebrew_PCBs

On Sun, May 15, 2011 at 11:37 PM, Rodney <rodney.jackson@...> wrote:
> G'day all,
> as a newbie I guess this is the first question asked by all other newbies. Could you point me to a F.A.Q. area where I might get some idea of making PCB's. I.E. best methods, how to reuse an old deskjet printer, etc...
>
> Kind regards,
> Rod
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>



--
Erik L. Knise
Seattle, WA

> Thank you Erik for your reply. I have been trawling through the site you
> mentioned, it is indeed full of useful information.
>
> Seems like I will be days in getting through it all. I have made boards in
> years past, these were by using stick on tracks and pads, a most arduous
> task and the results looked very much what
>
> they were, __amateurish.
>
> There is a wealth of information in this world, one only has to FIND it..
>
> Kind regards,
>
> Rod.
>
>
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> Sent: Tuesday, 17 May 2011 12:28 AM
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
>
>
>
>
>
> One of the members here, DJ Delorie, has an awesome website:
> http://www.delorie.com/pcb/
>
> On Sun, May 15, 2011 at 11:37 PM, Rodney <rodney.jackson@...
> <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au> > wrote:
>> G'day all,
>> as a newbie I guess this is the first question asked by all other newbies.
> Could you point me to a F.A.Q. area where I might get some idea of making
> PCB's. I.E. best methods, how to reuse an old deskjet printer, etc...
>>
>> Kind regards,
>> Rod
>>
>>
>
> --
> Erik L. Knise
> Seattle, WA
>

>
>
> Thanks for that Erik, I do not have a CNC mill, unfortunately, I was going
> to try building one as I was able to afford to, but the old body is a
> little
> too shaky these days for such precision work.
>
> I have tried the ferric acid route before, this was in the days of laying
> tracks with the strips and pads transfers. I might have to look for a cheap
> laser printer and have another crack at it that way.
>
>
> Rod
>
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> Sent: Thursday, 19 May 2011 4:12 AM
>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
>
> Rod,
>
> There are 3 different methods people usually use. Positive or
> negative photo resist, toner transfer and milling. It really depends
> on what equipment you have or want to buy. If you have a CNC mill
> then milling the boards may be a better option. If you have a high
> resolution (1200 DPI) laser printer and a laminator, toner transfer
> would be a good option. I've seen great results with the photo resist
> but I've never tried it and not sure what is involved.
>
> As for etching a lot of people use air regenerated Cupric Chloride.
> Ferric chloride is an option but cupric chloride you can pretty much
> use indefinitely by regenerating it with air or hydrogen peroxide.
>
> --
> Erik L. Knise
> Seattle, WA
>
> On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 2:35 AM, Rodney Jackson
> <rodney.jackson@... <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au>
> >
> wrote:
>
> > Thank you Erik for your reply. I have been trawling through the site you
> > mentioned, it is indeed full of useful information.
> >
> > Seems like I will be days in getting through it all. I have made boards
> in
> > years past, these were by using stick on tracks and pads, a most arduous
> > task and the results looked very much what
> >
> > they were, __amateurish.
> >
> > There is a wealth of information in this world, one only has to FIND it..
> >
> > Kind regards,
> >
> > Rod.
> >
> >
> > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
>
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> ]
>
> > On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> > Sent: Tuesday, 17 May 2011 12:28 AM
> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:
> Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
>
>
> > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > One of the members here, DJ Delorie, has an awesome website:
> > http://www.delorie.com/pcb/
> >
> > On Sun, May 15, 2011 at 11:37 PM, Rodney <rodney.jackson@...
> <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au>
> > <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au> > wrote:
> >> G'day all,
> >> as a newbie I guess this is the first question asked by all other
> newbies.
> > Could you point me to a F.A.Q. area where I might get some idea of making
> > PCB's. I.E. best methods, how to reuse an old deskjet printer, etc...
> >>
> >> Kind regards,
> >> Rod
> >>
> >>
> >
> > --
> > Erik L. Knise
> > Seattle, WA
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>

On 19/05/2011, at 2:56 PM, Rodney Jackson wrote:

> G'day John,
> I have thought of using this method, the problem is, I am unable to find an
> old flat iron (as different from steam iron)
> I know not to use water in a steam iron but the things these days have too
> many holes in the soul plate.
> Suppose I could still use one and keep using an ironing motion to cover the
> board completely with even amounts of heat.
> Will look on the past posts and check out your photo's.
>
> Thank you for your reply John
>
> Rod
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of John Clonts
> Sent: Thursday, 19 May 2011 10:42 AM
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
>
> Hi Rod,
>
> I'm brand new at this too. I used the laserjet toner method. I got an HP
> P1102w laser jet on ebay for $60. Printed on a junk mail "slick" page, and
> ironed on the board (I bought a $22 laminator but I don't think it gets hot
> enough so I used the iron). Etched with the FeCl. I was extremely pleased
> with my first result. See my photos I just posted last week under "JCC
> First Board".
>
> Cheers,
> John
>
> On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 11:20 PM, Rodney Jackson <
> rodney.jackson@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Thanks for that Erik, I do not have a CNC mill, unfortunately, I was going
> > to try building one as I was able to afford to, but the old body is a
> > little
> > too shaky these days for such precision work.
> >
> > I have tried the ferric acid route before, this was in the days of laying
> > tracks with the strips and pads transfers. I might have to look for a
> cheap
> > laser printer and have another crack at it that way.
> >
> >
> > Rod
> >
> > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> > Sent: Thursday, 19 May 2011 4:12 AM
> >
> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> >
> > Rod,
> >
> > There are 3 different methods people usually use. Positive or
> > negative photo resist, toner transfer and milling. It really depends
> > on what equipment you have or want to buy. If you have a CNC mill
> > then milling the boards may be a better option. If you have a high
> > resolution (1200 DPI) laser printer and a laminator, toner transfer
> > would be a good option. I've seen great results with the photo resist
> > but I've never tried it and not sure what is involved.
> >
> > As for etching a lot of people use air regenerated Cupric Chloride.
> > Ferric chloride is an option but cupric chloride you can pretty much
> > use indefinitely by regenerating it with air or hydrogen peroxide.
> >
> > --
> > Erik L. Knise
> > Seattle, WA
> >
> > On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 2:35 AM, Rodney Jackson
> > <rodney.jackson@... <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au>
> > >
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Thank you Erik for your reply. I have been trawling through the site you
> > > mentioned, it is indeed full of useful information.
> > >
> > > Seems like I will be days in getting through it all. I have made boards
> > in
> > > years past, these were by using stick on tracks and pads, a most arduous
> > > task and the results looked very much what
> > >
> > > they were, __amateurish.
> > >
> > > There is a wealth of information in this world, one only has to FIND
> it..
> > >
> > > Kind regards,
> > >
> > > Rod.
> > >
> > >
> > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> >
> > [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> ]
> >
> > > On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> > > Sent: Tuesday, 17 May 2011 12:28 AM
> > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:
> > Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> >
> >
> > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > One of the members here, DJ Delorie, has an awesome website:
> > > http://www.delorie.com/pcb/
> > >
> > > On Sun, May 15, 2011 at 11:37 PM, Rodney <rodney.jackson@...
> > <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au>
> > > <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au> > wrote:
> > >> G'day all,
> > >> as a newbie I guess this is the first question asked by all other
> > newbies.
> > > Could you point me to a F.A.Q. area where I might get some idea of
> making
> > > PCB's. I.E. best methods, how to reuse an old deskjet printer, etc...
> > >>
> > >> Kind regards,
> > >> Rod
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > > --
> > > Erik L. Knise
> > > Seattle, WA
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Piers Goodhew <piers@...> wrote:
>
> G'day Rod,
>
> I use the edge of the iron - no holes and more pressure (plus various passes of the flat of it - if you're moving the holes don't have much effect). If you're doing any sort of volume, I think a laminator would make a lot of sense. But I'm not doing volume. The fact that our generic toner cart's getting low is causing a lot more trouble than lack-of-stick-to-the-board.
>
> PG
>
> On 19/05/2011, at 2:56 PM, Rodney Jackson wrote:
>
> > G'day John,
> > I have thought of using this method, the problem is, I am unable to find an
> > old flat iron (as different from steam iron)
> > I know not to use water in a steam iron but the things these days have too
> > many holes in the soul plate.
> > Suppose I could still use one and keep using an ironing motion to cover the
> > board completely with even amounts of heat.
> > Will look on the past posts and check out your photo's.
> >
> > Thank you for your reply John
> >
> > Rod
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of John Clonts
> > Sent: Thursday, 19 May 2011 10:42 AM
> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> >
> > Hi Rod,
> >
> > I'm brand new at this too. I used the laserjet toner method. I got an HP
> > P1102w laser jet on ebay for $60. Printed on a junk mail "slick" page, and
> > ironed on the board (I bought a $22 laminator but I don't think it gets hot
> > enough so I used the iron). Etched with the FeCl. I was extremely pleased
> > with my first result. See my photos I just posted last week under "JCC
> > First Board".
> >
> > Cheers,
> > John
> >
> > On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 11:20 PM, Rodney Jackson <
> > rodney.jackson@...> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks for that Erik, I do not have a CNC mill, unfortunately, I was going
> > > to try building one as I was able to afford to, but the old body is a
> > > little
> > > too shaky these days for such precision work.
> > >
> > > I have tried the ferric acid route before, this was in the days of laying
> > > tracks with the strips and pads transfers. I might have to look for a
> > cheap
> > > laser printer and have another crack at it that way.
> > >
> > >
> > > Rod
> > >
> > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> > > On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> > > Sent: Thursday, 19 May 2011 4:12 AM
> > >
> > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> > >
> > > Rod,
> > >
> > > There are 3 different methods people usually use. Positive or
> > > negative photo resist, toner transfer and milling. It really depends
> > > on what equipment you have or want to buy. If you have a CNC mill
> > > then milling the boards may be a better option. If you have a high
> > > resolution (1200 DPI) laser printer and a laminator, toner transfer
> > > would be a good option. I've seen great results with the photo resist
> > > but I've never tried it and not sure what is involved.
> > >
> > > As for etching a lot of people use air regenerated Cupric Chloride.
> > > Ferric chloride is an option but cupric chloride you can pretty much
> > > use indefinitely by regenerating it with air or hydrogen peroxide.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Erik L. Knise
> > > Seattle, WA
> > >
> > > On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 2:35 AM, Rodney Jackson
> > > <rodney.jackson@... <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au>
> > > >
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Thank you Erik for your reply. I have been trawling through the site you
> > > > mentioned, it is indeed full of useful information.
> > > >
> > > > Seems like I will be days in getting through it all. I have made boards
> > > in
> > > > years past, these were by using stick on tracks and pads, a most arduous
> > > > task and the results looked very much what
> > > >
> > > > they were, __amateurish.
> > > >
> > > > There is a wealth of information in this world, one only has to FIND
> > it..
> > > >
> > > > Kind regards,
> > > >
> > > > Rod.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > >
> > > [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > >
> > > > On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, 17 May 2011 12:28 AM
> > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:
> > > Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > >
> > >
> > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > One of the members here, DJ Delorie, has an awesome website:
> > > > http://www.delorie.com/pcb/
> > > >
> > > > On Sun, May 15, 2011 at 11:37 PM, Rodney <rodney.jackson@...
> > > <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au>
> > > > <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au> > wrote:
> > > >> G'day all,
> > > >> as a newbie I guess this is the first question asked by all other
> > > newbies.
> > > > Could you point me to a F.A.Q. area where I might get some idea of
> > making
> > > > PCB's. I.E. best methods, how to reuse an old deskjet printer, etc...
> > > >>
> > > >> Kind regards,
> > > >> Rod
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Erik L. Knise
> > > > Seattle, WA
> > > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
>

On Thu, May 19, 2011 at 6:33 PM, freespamfree <freespamfree@...>wrote:

>
>
> Sorry if this has been answered before but so far I have read that people
> use shiny paper. What type of paper seems to work good for the toner
> transfer method? I was thinking something in-expensive like magazine paper.
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Piers Goodhew <piers@...> wrote:
> >
> > G'day Rod,
> >
> > I use the edge of the iron - no holes and more pressure (plus various
> passes of the flat of it - if you're moving the holes don't have much
> effect). If you're doing any sort of volume, I think a laminator would make
> a lot of sense. But I'm not doing volume. The fact that our generic toner
> cart's getting low is causing a lot more trouble than
> lack-of-stick-to-the-board.
> >
> > PG
> >
> > On 19/05/2011, at 2:56 PM, Rodney Jackson wrote:
> >
> > > G'day John,
> > > I have thought of using this method, the problem is, I am unable to
> find an
> > > old flat iron (as different from steam iron)
> > > I know not to use water in a steam iron but the things these days have
> too
> > > many holes in the soul plate.
> > > Suppose I could still use one and keep using an ironing motion to cover
> the
> > > board completely with even amounts of heat.
> > > Will look on the past posts and check out your photo's.
> > >
> > > Thank you for your reply John
> > >
> > > Rod
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
> Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> > > On Behalf Of John Clonts
> > > Sent: Thursday, 19 May 2011 10:42 AM
> > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> > >
> > > Hi Rod,
> > >
> > > I'm brand new at this too. I used the laserjet toner method. I got an
> HP
> > > P1102w laser jet on ebay for $60. Printed on a junk mail "slick" page,
> and
> > > ironed on the board (I bought a $22 laminator but I don't think it gets
> hot
> > > enough so I used the iron). Etched with the FeCl. I was extremely
> pleased
> > > with my first result. See my photos I just posted last week under "JCC
> > > First Board".
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > > John
> > >
> > > On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 11:20 PM, Rodney Jackson <
> > > rodney.jackson@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for that Erik, I do not have a CNC mill, unfortunately, I was
> going
> > > > to try building one as I was able to afford to, but the old body is a
> > > > little
> > > > too shaky these days for such precision work.
> > > >
> > > > I have tried the ferric acid route before, this was in the days of
> laying
> > > > tracks with the strips and pads transfers. I might have to look for a
> > > cheap
> > > > laser printer and have another crack at it that way.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Rod
> > > >
> > > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
> Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> > > > On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> > > > Sent: Thursday, 19 May 2011 4:12 AM
> > > >
> > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> > > >
> > > > Rod,
> > > >
> > > > There are 3 different methods people usually use. Positive or
> > > > negative photo resist, toner transfer and milling. It really depends
> > > > on what equipment you have or want to buy. If you have a CNC mill
> > > > then milling the boards may be a better option. If you have a high
> > > > resolution (1200 DPI) laser printer and a laminator, toner transfer
> > > > would be a good option. I've seen great results with the photo resist
> > > > but I've never tried it and not sure what is involved.
> > > >
> > > > As for etching a lot of people use air regenerated Cupric Chloride.
> > > > Ferric chloride is an option but cupric chloride you can pretty much
> > > > use indefinitely by regenerating it with air or hydrogen peroxide.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Erik L. Knise
> > > > Seattle, WA
> > > >
> > > > On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 2:35 AM, Rodney Jackson
> > > > <rodney.jackson@... <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au>
>
> > > > >
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Thank you Erik for your reply. I have been trawling through the
> site you
> > > > > mentioned, it is indeed full of useful information.
> > > > >
> > > > > Seems like I will be days in getting through it all. I have made
> boards
> > > > in
> > > > > years past, these were by using stick on tracks and pads, a most
> arduous
> > > > > task and the results looked very much what
> > > > >
> > > > > they were, __amateurish.
> > > > >
> > > > > There is a wealth of information in this world, one only has to
> FIND
> > > it..
> > > > >
> > > > > Kind regards,
> > > > >
> > > > > Rod.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > >
> > > > [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > > >
> > > > > On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> > > > > Sent: Tuesday, 17 May 2011 12:28 AM
> > > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:
> > > > Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > One of the members here, DJ Delorie, has an awesome website:
> > > > > http://www.delorie.com/pcb/
> > > > >
> > > > > On Sun, May 15, 2011 at 11:37 PM, Rodney <rodney.jackson@...
>
> > > > <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au>
> > > > > <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au> > wrote:
> > > > >> G'day all,
> > > > >> as a newbie I guess this is the first question asked by all other
> > > > newbies.
> > > > > Could you point me to a F.A.Q. area where I might get some idea of
> > > making
> > > > > PCB's. I.E. best methods, how to reuse an old deskjet printer,
> etc...
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Kind regards,
> > > > >> Rod
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > Erik L. Knise
> > > > > Seattle, WA
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On 20/05/2011, at 3:36 PM, John Clonts wrote:

> freespamfree, I had good first experience using a page from a mail order
> "slick". I have heard also that glossy magazine paper works well too, but
> some have said to try to avoid heavy dark images on the magazine page...
>
> Cheers,
> John
>
> On Thu, May 19, 2011 at 6:33 PM, freespamfree <freespamfree@...>wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Sorry if this has been answered before but so far I have read that people
>> use shiny paper. What type of paper seems to work good for the toner
>> transfer method? I was thinking something in-expensive like magazine paper.
>>
>>
>> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Piers Goodhew <piers@...> wrote:
>>>
>>> G'day Rod,
>>>
>>> I use the edge of the iron - no holes and more pressure (plus various
>> passes of the flat of it - if you're moving the holes don't have much
>> effect). If you're doing any sort of volume, I think a laminator would make
>> a lot of sense. But I'm not doing volume. The fact that our generic toner
>> cart's getting lo

>
>
> I guess the next query is, what is the best BRAND of laser printer to buy??
>
> I have read some good sites about paper, methods, and other things relating
> to making PCB's. The only thing I have read so far is what NOT to buy.
>
> The Brother brand of laser was a definite no-no due to the type of toner
> used by that brand. I certainly do not want a printer with all bells and
> whistles priced at Mega Dollars, What I do want is guidance of what TO
> purchase. Hope someone out there has the experience needed to suggest a
> particular brand and model..
>
> Thanks in advance.....
>
> Kind regards,
>
> Rod
>
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Piers Goodhew
> Sent: Friday, 20 May 2011 3:46 PM
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] other kinds of "catalog" paper
>
> We have an astounding number of new RS catalogs that have been delivered to
> my workplace. That's a matte but very thin stock - anyone tried? I think
> the
> glossy catalogues have a bit of clay in them which helps them to
> disintegrate, but this matte stuff may have advantages. I certainly have
> access to a lifetime's worth of stock.
>
> PG
>
> On 20/05/2011, at 3:36 PM, John Clonts wrote:
>
> > freespamfree, I had good first experience using a page from a mail order
> > "slick". I have heard also that glossy magazine paper works well too, but
> > some have said to try to avoid heavy dark images on the magazine page...
> >
> > Cheers,
> > John
> >
> > On Thu, May 19, 2011 at 6:33 PM, freespamfree <freespamfree@...
> <mailto:freespamfree%40yahoo.com> >wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> Sorry if this has been answered before but so far I have read that
> people
> >> use shiny paper. What type of paper seems to work good for the toner
> >> transfer method? I was thinking something in-expensive like magazine
> paper.
> >>
> >>
> >> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> , Piers Goodhew <piers@...>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> G'day Rod,
> >>>
> >>> I use the edge of the iron - no holes and more pressure (plus various
> >> passes of the flat of it - if you're moving the holes don't have much
> >> effect). If you're doing any sort of volume, I think a laminator would
> make
> >> a lot of sense. But I'm not doing volume. The fact that our generic
> toner
> >> cart's getting lo
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>

>
>
> Thanks John, I have sent off a query to HP regarding this printer. The
> current new price is about $179
> We will see what they suggest.
> Kind regards,
> Rod
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of John Clonts
> Sent: Friday, 20 May 2011 7:14 PM
>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] other kinds of "catalogue" paper
>
>
> In the database section of the group is a list, have you looked through
> that?
>
> I have been very pleased with my HP P1102w that I got on ebay for $60.
>
> Cheers,
> John
>
> On Fri, May 20, 2011 at 5:55 AM, Rodney Jackson <
> rodney.jackson@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I guess the next query is, what is the best BRAND of laser printer to
> buy??
> >
> > I have read some good sites about paper, methods, and other things
> relating
> > to making PCB's. The only thing I have read so far is what NOT to buy.
> >
> > The Brother brand of laser was a definite no-no due to the type of toner
> > used by that brand. I certainly do not want a printer with all bells and
> > whistles priced at Mega Dollars, What I do want is guidance of what TO
> > purchase. Hope someone out there has the experience needed to suggest a
> > particular brand and model..
> >
> > Thanks in advance.....
> >
> > Kind regards,
> >
> > Rod
> >
> > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
> Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of Piers Goodhew
> > Sent: Friday, 20 May 2011 3:46 PM
> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] other kinds of "catalog" paper
> >
> > We have an astounding number of new RS catalogs that have been delivered
> to
> > my workplace. That's a matte but very thin stock - anyone tried? I think
> > the
> > glossy catalogues have a bit of clay in them which helps them to
> > disintegrate, but this matte stuff may have advantages. I certainly have
> > access to a lifetime's worth of stock.
> >
> > PG
> >
> > On 20/05/2011, at 3:36 PM, John Clonts wrote:
> >
> > > freespamfree, I had good first experience using a page from a mail
> order
> > > "slick". I have heard also that glossy magazine paper works well too,
> but
> > > some have said to try to avoid heavy dark images on the magazine
> page...
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > > John
> > >
> > > On Thu, May 19, 2011 at 6:33 PM, freespamfree <freespamfree@...
> > <mailto:freespamfree%40yahoo.com> >wrote:
> > >
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Sorry if this has been answered before but so far I have read that
> > people
> > >> use shiny paper. What type of paper seems to work good for the toner
> > >> transfer method? I was thinking something in-expensive like magazine
> > paper.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> , Piers Goodhew <piers@...>
> > wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> G'day Rod,
> > >>>
> > >>> I use the edge of the iron - no holes and more pressure (plus various
> > >> passes of the flat of it - if you're moving the holes don't have much
> > >> effect). If you're doing any sort of volume, I think a laminator would
> > make
> > >> a lot of sense. But I'm not doing volume. The fact that our generic
> > toner
> > >> cart's getting lo
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------------------------------
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "freespamfree" <freespamfree@...> wrote:
>
> Sorry if this has been answered before but so far I have read that people use shiny paper. What type of paper seems to work good for the toner transfer method? I was thinking something in-expensive like magazine paper.
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Piers Goodhew <piers@> wrote:
> >
> > G'day Rod,
> >
> > I use the edge of the iron - no holes and more pressure (plus various passes of the flat of it - if you're moving the holes don't have much effect). If you're doing any sort of volume, I think a laminator would make a lot of sense. But I'm not doing volume. The fact that our generic toner cart's getting low is causing a lot more trouble than lack-of-stick-to-the-board.
> >
> > PG
> >
> > On 19/05/2011, at 2:56 PM, Rodney Jackson wrote:
> >
> > > G'day John,
> > > I have thought of using this method, the problem is, I am unable to find an
> > > old flat iron (as different from steam iron)
> > > I know not to use water in a steam iron but the things these days have too
> > > many holes in the soul plate.
> > > Suppose I could still use one and keep using an ironing motion to cover the
> > > board completely with even amounts of heat.
> > > Will look on the past posts and check out your photo's.
> > >
> > > Thank you for your reply John
> > >
> > > Rod
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> > > On Behalf Of John Clonts
> > > Sent: Thursday, 19 May 2011 10:42 AM
> > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> > >
> > > Hi Rod,
> > >
> > > I'm brand new at this too. I used the laserjet toner method. I got an HP
> > > P1102w laser jet on ebay for $60. Printed on a junk mail "slick" page, and
> > > ironed on the board (I bought a $22 laminator but I don't think it gets hot
> > > enough so I used the iron). Etched with the FeCl. I was extremely pleased
> > > with my first result. See my photos I just posted last week under "JCC
> > > First Board".
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > > John
> > >
> > > On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 11:20 PM, Rodney Jackson <
> > > rodney.jackson@> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for that Erik, I do not have a CNC mill, unfortunately, I was going
> > > > to try building one as I was able to afford to, but the old body is a
> > > > little
> > > > too shaky these days for such precision work.
> > > >
> > > > I have tried the ferric acid route before, this was in the days of laying
> > > > tracks with the strips and pads transfers. I might have to look for a
> > > cheap
> > > > laser printer and have another crack at it that way.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Rod
> > > >
> > > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> > > > On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> > > > Sent: Thursday, 19 May 2011 4:12 AM
> > > >
> > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> > > >
> > > > Rod,
> > > >
> > > > There are 3 different methods people usually use. Positive or
> > > > negative photo resist, toner transfer and milling. It really depends
> > > > on what equipment you have or want to buy. If you have a CNC mill
> > > > then milling the boards may be a better option. If you have a high
> > > > resolution (1200 DPI) laser printer and a laminator, toner transfer
> > > > would be a good option. I've seen great results with the photo resist
> > > > but I've never tried it and not sure what is involved.
> > > >
> > > > As for etching a lot of people use air regenerated Cupric Chloride.
> > > > Ferric chloride is an option but cupric chloride you can pretty much
> > > > use indefinitely by regenerating it with air or hydrogen peroxide.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Erik L. Knise
> > > > Seattle, WA
> > > >
> > > > On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 2:35 AM, Rodney Jackson
> > > > <rodney.jackson@ <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au>
> > > > >
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Thank you Erik for your reply. I have been trawling through the site you
> > > > > mentioned, it is indeed full of useful information.
> > > > >
> > > > > Seems like I will be days in getting through it all. I have made boards
> > > > in
> > > > > years past, these were by using stick on tracks and pads, a most arduous
> > > > > task and the results looked very much what
> > > > >
> > > > > they were, __amateurish.
> > > > >
> > > > > There is a wealth of information in this world, one only has to FIND
> > > it..
> > > > >
> > > > > Kind regards,
> > > > >
> > > > > Rod.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > >
> > > > [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > > >
> > > > > On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> > > > > Sent: Tuesday, 17 May 2011 12:28 AM
> > > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:
> > > > Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > One of the members here, DJ Delorie, has an awesome website:
> > > > > http://www.delorie.com/pcb/
> > > > >
> > > > > On Sun, May 15, 2011 at 11:37 PM, Rodney <rodney.jackson@
> > > > <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au>
> > > > > <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au> > wrote:
> > > > >> G'day all,
> > > > >> as a newbie I guess this is the first question asked by all other
> > > > newbies.
> > > > > Could you point me to a F.A.Q. area where I might get some idea of
> > > making
> > > > > PCB's. I.E. best methods, how to reuse an old deskjet printer, etc...
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Kind regards,
> > > > >> Rod
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > Erik L. Knise
> > > > > Seattle, WA
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> >
>

On Fri, May 20, 2011 at 12:32 PM, mmccoo <mail@...> wrote:

>
>
> Presentation paper is what I use.
>
> I think of it was blank magazine paper. Magazine paper works well for me
> too, but using the blank stuff makes it a bit easier to see what's where.
> Also, with some of my ground planes, you can see the text of the paper on
> the final etched board.
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, John Clonts <john.clonts@...> wrote:
>
> Are you talking about something like this:
> http://www.officemax.com/office-supplies/paper/inkjet-paper/product-ARS21817
>
> On Fri, May 20, 2011 at 12:32 PM, mmccoo <mail@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Presentation paper is what I use.
> >
> > I think of it was blank magazine paper. Magazine paper works well for me
> > too, but using the blank stuff makes it a bit easier to see what's where.
> > Also, with some of my ground planes, you can see the text of the paper on
> > the final etched board.
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

>
>
> Just the usual thing ....like will it do the job on laser paper backed with
> either paper or cardboard to give it some grip. That kind of thing.
> Anyhow, John, I might call it a night. Us oldies need our beauty sleep,
> even
> though it has not worked for me in the past 70 years.
> Possibly catch you tomorrow. Thanks again for your help.
>
> Regards,
> Rod
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of John Clonts
> Sent: Friday, 20 May 2011 9:28 PM
>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] other kinds of "catalogue" paper
>
> Just curious, what sort of question are you putting to HP about it?
>
> Also, I was thinking that the "street price" is around $100.
>
> Cheers,
> John
>
> On Fri, May 20, 2011 at 10:18 AM, Rodney Jackson <
> rodney.jackson@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Thanks John, I have sent off a query to HP regarding this printer. The
> > current new price is about $179
> > We will see what they suggest.
> > Kind regards,
> > Rod
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
> Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of John Clonts
> > Sent: Friday, 20 May 2011 7:14 PM
> >
> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] other kinds of "catalogue" paper
> >
> >
> > In the database section of the group is a list, have you looked through
> > that?
> >
> > I have been very pleased with my HP P1102w that I got on ebay for $60.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > John
> >
> > On Fri, May 20, 2011 at 5:55 AM, Rodney Jackson <
> > rodney.jackson@...> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > I guess the next query is, what is the best BRAND of laser printer to
> > buy??
> > >
> > > I have read some good sites about paper, methods, and other things
> > relating
> > > to making PCB's. The only thing I have read so far is what NOT to buy.
> > >
> > > The Brother brand of laser was a definite no-no due to the type of
> toner
> > > used by that brand. I certainly do not want a printer with all bells
> and
> > > whistles priced at Mega Dollars, What I do want is guidance of what TO
> > > purchase. Hope someone out there has the experience needed to suggest a
> > > particular brand and model..
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance.....
> > >
> > > Kind regards,
> > >
> > > Rod
> > >
> > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
> > Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> > > On Behalf Of Piers Goodhew
> > > Sent: Friday, 20 May 2011 3:46 PM
> > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] other kinds of "catalog" paper
> > >
> > > We have an astounding number of new RS catalogs that have been
> delivered
> > to
> > > my workplace. That's a matte but very thin stock - anyone tried? I
> think
> > > the
> > > glossy catalogues have a bit of clay in them which helps them to
> > > disintegrate, but this matte stuff may have advantages. I certainly
> have
> > > access to a lifetime's worth of stock.
> > >
> > > PG
> > >
> > > On 20/05/2011, at 3:36 PM, John Clonts wrote:
> > >
> > > > freespamfree, I had good first experience using a page from a mail
> > order
> > > > "slick". I have heard also that glossy magazine paper works well too,
> > but
> > > > some have said to try to avoid heavy dark images on the magazine
> > page...
> > > >
> > > > Cheers,
> > > > John
> > > >
> > > > On Thu, May 19, 2011 at 6:33 PM, freespamfree <
> freespamfree@...
> > > <mailto:freespamfree%40yahoo.com> >wrote:
> > > >
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> Sorry if this has been answered before but so far I have read that
> > > people
> > > >> use shiny paper. What type of paper seems to work good for the toner
> > > >> transfer method? I was thinking something in-expensive like magazine
> > > paper.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> , Piers Goodhew <piers@...>
> > > wrote:
> > > >>>
> > > >>> G'day Rod,
> > > >>>
> > > >>> I use the edge of the iron - no holes and more pressure (plus
> various
> > > >> passes of the flat of it - if you're moving the holes don't have
> much
> > > >> effect). If you're doing any sort of volume, I think a laminator
> would
> > > make
> > > >> a lot of sense. But I'm not doing volume. The fact that our generic
> > > toner
> > > >> cart's getting lo
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mmccoo" <mail@...> wrote:
>
> Presentation paper is what I use.
>
> I think of it was blank magazine paper. Magazine paper works well for me too, but using the blank stuff makes it a bit easier to see what's where. Also, with some of my ground planes, you can see the text of the paper on the final etched board.
>
> I imagine it also helps line things up when doing 2 sided, though my experience with that is limited.
>
> I much prefer a laminator over the iron. my results improved a lot when I got one. you should be able to find one new for $25 or $30.
>
> I've also read (and perhaps someone can comment on this) of a trick to further improve things. I haven't tried it yet, but it makes sense.
>
> After you've removed the paper, but before etch, bake it in the oven. I interpret this as allowing the toner to remelt and even out a bit. take advantage of cohesion.
>
>
> Miles
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "freespamfree" <freespamfree@> wrote:
> >
> > Sorry if this has been answered before but so far I have read that people use shiny paper. What type of paper seems to work good for the toner transfer method? I was thinking something in-expensive like magazine paper.
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Piers Goodhew <piers@> wrote:
> > >
> > > G'day Rod,
> > >
> > > I use the edge of the iron - no holes and more pressure (plus various passes of the flat of it - if you're moving the holes don't have much effect). If you're doing any sort of volume, I think a laminator would make a lot of sense. But I'm not doing volume. The fact that our generic toner cart's getting low is causing a lot more trouble than lack-of-stick-to-the-board.
> > >
> > > PG
> > >
> > > On 19/05/2011, at 2:56 PM, Rodney Jackson wrote:
> > >
> > > > G'day John,
> > > > I have thought of using this method, the problem is, I am unable to find an
> > > > old flat iron (as different from steam iron)
> > > > I know not to use water in a steam iron but the things these days have too
> > > > many holes in the soul plate.
> > > > Suppose I could still use one and keep using an ironing motion to cover the
> > > > board completely with even amounts of heat.
> > > > Will look on the past posts and check out your photo's.
> > > >
> > > > Thank you for your reply John
> > > >
> > > > Rod
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> > > > On Behalf Of John Clonts
> > > > Sent: Thursday, 19 May 2011 10:42 AM
> > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> > > >
> > > > Hi Rod,
> > > >
> > > > I'm brand new at this too. I used the laserjet toner method. I got an HP
> > > > P1102w laser jet on ebay for $60. Printed on a junk mail "slick" page, and
> > > > ironed on the board (I bought a $22 laminator but I don't think it gets hot
> > > > enough so I used the iron). Etched with the FeCl. I was extremely pleased
> > > > with my first result. See my photos I just posted last week under "JCC
> > > > First Board".
> > > >
> > > > Cheers,
> > > > John
> > > >
> > > > On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 11:20 PM, Rodney Jackson <
> > > > rodney.jackson@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks for that Erik, I do not have a CNC mill, unfortunately, I was going
> > > > > to try building one as I was able to afford to, but the old body is a
> > > > > little
> > > > > too shaky these days for such precision work.
> > > > >
> > > > > I have tried the ferric acid route before, this was in the days of laying
> > > > > tracks with the strips and pads transfers. I might have to look for a
> > > > cheap
> > > > > laser printer and have another crack at it that way.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Rod
> > > > >
> > > > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
> > > > > On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> > > > > Sent: Thursday, 19 May 2011 4:12 AM
> > > > >
> > > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> > > > >
> > > > > Rod,
> > > > >
> > > > > There are 3 different methods people usually use. Positive or
> > > > > negative photo resist, toner transfer and milling. It really depends
> > > > > on what equipment you have or want to buy. If you have a CNC mill
> > > > > then milling the boards may be a better option. If you have a high
> > > > > resolution (1200 DPI) laser printer and a laminator, toner transfer
> > > > > would be a good option. I've seen great results with the photo resist
> > > > > but I've never tried it and not sure what is involved.
> > > > >
> > > > > As for etching a lot of people use air regenerated Cupric Chloride.
> > > > > Ferric chloride is an option but cupric chloride you can pretty much
> > > > > use indefinitely by regenerating it with air or hydrogen peroxide.
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > Erik L. Knise
> > > > > Seattle, WA
> > > > >
> > > > > On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 2:35 AM, Rodney Jackson
> > > > > <rodney.jackson@ <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au>
> > > > > >
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Thank you Erik for your reply. I have been trawling through the site you
> > > > > > mentioned, it is indeed full of useful information.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Seems like I will be days in getting through it all. I have made boards
> > > > > in
> > > > > > years past, these were by using stick on tracks and pads, a most arduous
> > > > > > task and the results looked very much what
> > > > > >
> > > > > > they were, __amateurish.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > There is a wealth of information in this world, one only has to FIND
> > > > it..
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Kind regards,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Rod.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > >
> > > > > [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > > > >
> > > > > > On Behalf Of Erik Knise
> > > > > > Sent: Tuesday, 17 May 2011 12:28 AM
> > > > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:
> > > > > Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > One of the members here, DJ Delorie, has an awesome website:
> > > > > > http://www.delorie.com/pcb/
> > > > > >
> > > > > > On Sun, May 15, 2011 at 11:37 PM, Rodney <rodney.jackson@
> > > > > <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au>
> > > > > > <mailto:rodney.jackson%40optusnet.com.au> > wrote:
> > > > > >> G'day all,
> > > > > >> as a newbie I guess this is the first question asked by all other
> > > > > newbies.
> > > > > > Could you point me to a F.A.Q. area where I might get some idea of
> > > > making
> > > > > > PCB's. I.E. best methods, how to reuse an old deskjet printer, etc...
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> Kind regards,
> > > > > >> Rod
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --
> > > > > > Erik L. Knise
> > > > > > Seattle, WA
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > > ------------------------------------
> > > >
> > > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

>
> The process I am using is a little involved but I'm getting great results. Following someone else's recommendation this list, I use a product called CitraSolv as a primer. CitraSolv is an organic cleaner made from citrus (d-Limonene) that dissolves the toner just like acetone does. I use a piece of 600 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and wet sand a the copper a little bit to brighten up the copper layer and remove any surface imperfections, then dry the board with a microfiber cloth and then smear a thin layer of CitraSolv on it. It will evaporate within a few minutes leaving a dry but very slightly oily surface. I print out the traces on magazine paper (which will tend to transfer the ink from the page) or glossy inkjet photo paper and tape it to the copper clad board with the blue delicate surface painter's tape and run it through a laminator a couple of times to stick it down to the board. I then pop the board directly into a toaster oven *with the paper still on it) at about 375F for 2 or 3 minutes to melt the toner and heat the board all over, then pass it through the laminator a couple more times before it has time to cool. I then put it in a sink of cold water with a little dishwashing detergent to soak the paper off the board. I get great results! The transfer is very nearly 100% from the paper to the board and the toner adheres very, very well...you can't scrape it off with your fingernail.
>

>
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Fast Eddie" <epinnell@...> wrote:
> >
> > The process I am using is a little involved but I'm getting great
> results. Following someone else's recommendation this list, I use a product
> called CitraSolv as a primer. CitraSolv is an organic cleaner made from
> citrus (d-Limonene) that dissolves the toner just like acetone does. I use a
> piece of 600 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and wet sand a the copper a little
> bit to brighten up the copper layer and remove any surface imperfections,
> then dry the board with a microfiber cloth and then smear a thin layer of
> CitraSolv on it. It will evaporate within a few minutes leaving a dry but
> very slightly oily surface. I print out the traces on magazine paper (which
> will tend to transfer the ink from the page) or glossy inkjet photo paper
> and tape it to the copper clad board with the blue delicate surface
> painter's tape and run it through a laminator a couple of times to stick it
> down to the board. I then pop the board directly into a toaster oven *with
> the paper still on it) at about 375F for 2 or 3 minutes to melt the toner
> and heat the board all over, then pass it through the laminator a couple
> more times before it has time to cool. I then put it in a sink of cold water
> with a little dishwashing detergent to soak the paper off the board. I get
> great results! The transfer is very nearly 100% from the paper to the board
> and the toner adheres very, very well...you can't scrape it off with your
> fingernail.
> >
>
> Nice write up! Thanks for sharing that...
>
>
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, David Mitchell <gossiphog@...> wrote:
>
> Interesting! I would have thought the oily residue would interfere with the
> process. I've never had any luck myself using an iron to do the transfer,
> but I picked up a HF laminator recently and been meaning to give it another
> shot.
>
>
>
> On Mon, May 23, 2011 at 1:07 PM, James Newton
> <jamesmichaelnewton@...>wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Fast Eddie" <epinnell@> wrote:
> > >
> > > The process I am using is a little involved but I'm getting great
> > results. Following someone else's recommendation this list, I use a product
> > called CitraSolv as a primer. CitraSolv is an organic cleaner made from
> > citrus (d-Limonene) that dissolves the toner just like acetone does. I use a
> > piece of 600 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and wet sand a the copper a little
> > bit to brighten up the copper layer and remove any surface imperfections,
> > then dry the board with a microfiber cloth and then smear a thin layer of
> > CitraSolv on it. It will evaporate within a few minutes leaving a dry but
> > very slightly oily surface. I print out the traces on magazine paper (which
> > will tend to transfer the ink from the page) or glossy inkjet photo paper
> > and tape it to the copper clad board with the blue delicate surface
> > painter's tape and run it through a laminator a couple of times to stick it
> > down to the board. I then pop the board directly into a toaster oven *with
> > the paper still on it) at about 375F for 2 or 3 minutes to melt the toner
> > and heat the board all over, then pass it through the laminator a couple
> > more times before it has time to cool. I then put it in a sink of cold water
> > with a little dishwashing detergent to soak the paper off the board. I get
> > great results! The transfer is very nearly 100% from the paper to the board
> > and the toner adheres very, very well...you can't scrape it off with your
> > fingernail.
> > >
> >
> > Nice write up! Thanks for sharing that...
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Byrne <kbyrne10@...> wrote:
>
> I also down loaded diptrace and have one question. How can I generate a schematic ulp or research that to upload Eagle files in to it? Do you know? Kevin
>
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "AlienRelics" <alienrelics@...> wrote:
>
> I concur with Howard. I do find Diptrace more intuitive and easier to use.
>
> To load an Eagle file into Diptrace, you must use Eagle... There is a ULP for Eagle that converts an Eagle PCB or schematic file into a Diptrace file.
>
> The ULP is installed with Diptrace, just open the file in Eagle and then:
> http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=88226.0;wap2
>
> Steve Greenfield AE7HD
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Byrne <kbyrne10@> wrote:
> >
> > I also down loaded diptrace and have one question. How can I generate a schematic ulp or research that to upload Eagle files in to it? Do you know? Kevin
> >
> >
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "n1bru" <bkramer@...> wrote:
>
> Hi everyone, I am really new to circuit board construction. I came here in hopes of learning everything there is to making circuit boards.
> 1. what program is the best for free?
> 2. what materials do I need to make circuit boards?
> 3. Where is the best place to purchase the euipment, chemicals boards etc?
> As you can see I need much guidance and information. If this has been brought up before, please point me into the right direction, I want to get going ASAP. I am eager to learn.
> Thank You all in advance for your help and guidance in making circuit boards.
>
> Bruce 73
> N1BRU
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Mitch Davis <mjd@...> wrote:
>
> On Tue, Oct 16, 2012 at 11:27 AM, Mike <mbushroe@...> wrote:
> > I usually use the gEDA gschem for schematic capture and editing, and pcb for board layout. Both are not only free but open source.
>
> Another popular free/open source program is KiCad, which is available
> for Window and Linux. So nice not to have to worry about board and
> size restrictions like with Eagle!
>
> http://www.kicad-pcb.org/
>
> KiCad has a few warts, but I find using it a lot more enjoyable than Eagle.
>
> There's also live help:
>
> http://webchat.freenode.net/?channels=kicad
>
> KiCad is perfectly good enough for home or small business use, and
> I've happily used it for several years.
>
> Mitch.
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Byrne <kbyrne10@...> wrote:
>
> I also down loaded diptrace and have one question. How can I generate a schematic ulp or research that to upload Eagle files in to it? Do you know? Kevin
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Howard Chester <howard.chester@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2012 6:37 AM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
>
>
> Â
>
>
> --- On Sun, 14/10/12, n1bru <bkramer@...> wrote:
>
> From: n1bru <bkramer@...>
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newbie
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sunday, 14 October, 2012, 22:12
>
> Â
>
> >Hi everyone, I am really new to circuit board construction. I came here in >hopes of learning everything there is to making circuit boards.
>
> >1. what program is the best for free?
>
> >2. what materials do I need to make circuit boards?
>
> >3. Where is the best place to purchase the euipment, chemicals boards etc?
>
> >As you can see I need much guidance and information. If this has been >brought up before, please point me into the right direction, I want to get >going ASAP. I am eager to learn.
>
> >Thank You all in advance for your help and guidance in making circuit >boards.
>
> >Bruce 73
>
> ?N1BRU
>
> Hello Bruce,
> As to your question 1) about the best schematic/PCB programmes, both DIPTrace and Eagle provide a free version of their programmes.
> I personally prefer DIPTrace for ease of use(over the years I have compiled large component/PCB footprints for users to incorperate in their designs).
> DIPTrace has a large following with a forum, shared libraries and one-to-one problem solving with the owners and staff.
> An added feature( besides a 2-layer auto-place, auto-route, DFX and Gerber Import/Export, 3D-Viewer and PDF/BMP output formats) is the ability to covert between Eagle and Diptrace and vise-versa.
> As well as these two programmes, a lot of board manafacturers provide "freebies",with the drawback that you cannot print the board yourself.
> I hope this is of some help
>
> Links:-
> http://diptrace.com/
>
> http://www.cadsoft.de/?language=de&lang=en
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "tda7000" <Tda7000@...> wrote:
>
> Add my vote for KiCad.
>
> I agree very much with what Bob said: 'Eagle just has a very weird way to do things'
>
> Plus KiCad is totally free, and no artificial restrictions.
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Mitch Davis <mjd@> wrote:
> >
> > On Tue, Oct 16, 2012 at 11:27 AM, Mike <mbushroe@> wrote:
> > > I usually use the gEDA gschem for schematic capture and editing, and pcb for board layout. Both are not only free but open source.
> >
> > Another popular free/open source program is KiCad, which is available
> > for Window and Linux. So nice not to have to worry about board and
> > size restrictions like with Eagle!
> >
> > http://www.kicad-pcb.org/
> >
> > KiCad has a few warts, but I find using it a lot more enjoyable than Eagle.
> >
> > There's also live help:
> >
> > http://webchat.freenode.net/?channels=kicad
> >
> > KiCad is perfectly good enough for home or small business use, and
> > I've happily used it for several years.
> >
> > Mitch.
> >
>