Hydrogen peroxide mixing
2011-03-05 by Randy S.
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Archive for Homebrew_PCBs.
Index last updated: 2026-03-30 01:05 UTC
Thread
2011-03-05 by Randy S.
2011-03-05 by Randy S.
2011-03-06 by Harvey White
On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:54:37 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
Stuff they sell in beauty shops is designed to be nice to your scalp,
so has (most likely) extra ingredients, so you now will have long
silky flexible PC boards that shine as if this was your normal PC
board color.
I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
Harvey
>Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
>I went to the beauty supply place ..
>Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
>AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
>Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
>Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
>I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
>OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and molarity.
>ok .. found his email .. JROD .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)
>
>Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more chemistry .
>Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..
>
>Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
>and after his laughing .. replies .. lol
>
>Randy - N2CUA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>________________________________
>From: Randy S. <rj3819@...>
>To: Homebrew_PCB <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>
>
>I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
>they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.
>
>I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.
>
>Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
>and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
>you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
>it might not be the case .. though it is the same
>chemical in this case.
>
>Randy - N2CUA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
2011-03-06 by Jim Tonne
> I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....What is its percentage? 3%?
2011-03-06 by Roland F. Harriston
>
>
> > I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
>
> What is its percentage? 3%?
> He was looking at 10, 20 and 30%.
>
> - JimT
>
>
2011-03-06 by Randy S.
On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:54:37 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
Stuff they sell in beauty shops is designed to be nice to your scalp,
so has (most likely) extra ingredients, so you now will have long
silky flexible PC boards that shine as if this was your normal PC
board color.
I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
Harvey
>Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
>I went to the beauty supply place ..
>Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
>AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
>Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
>Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
>I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
>OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and molarity.
>ok .. found his email .. JROD .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)
>
>Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more chemistry .
>Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..
>
>Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
>and after his laughing .. replies .. lol
>
>Randy - N2CUA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>________________________________
>From: Randy S. <rj3819@...>
>To: Homebrew_PCB <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>
>
>I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
>they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.
>
>I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.
>
>Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
>and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
>you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
>it might not be the case .. though it is the same
>chemical in this case.
>
>Randy - N2CUA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-03-06 by Randy S.
On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:54:37 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
Stuff they sell in beauty shops is designed to be nice to your scalp,
so has (most likely) extra ingredients, so you now will have long
silky flexible PC boards that shine as if this was your normal PC
board color.
I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
Harvey
>Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
>I went to the beauty supply place ..
>Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
>AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
>Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
>Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
>I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
>OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and molarity.
>ok .. found his email .. JROD .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)
>
>Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more chemistry .
>Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..
>
>Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
>and after his laughing .. replies .. lol
>
>Randy - N2CUA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>________________________________
>From: Randy S. <rj3819@...>
>To: Homebrew_PCB <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>
>
>I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
>they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.
>
>I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.
>
>Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
>and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
>you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
>it might not be the case .. though it is the same
>chemical in this case.
>
>Randy - N2CUA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-03-06 by DJ Delorie
2011-03-06 by Harvey White
>3%
>
>> I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
>
>What is its percentage? 3%?
>He was looking at 10, 20 and 30%.
>
>- JimT
>
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
2011-03-06 by Jim
On 3/5/2011 4:40 PM, Harvey White wrote:
> On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:54:37 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>
> Stuff they sell in beauty shops is designed to be nice to your scalp,
> so has (most likely) extra ingredients, so you now will have long
> silky flexible PC boards that shine as if this was your normal PC
> board color.
>
> I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
>
> Harvey
>
>
>> Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
>> I went to the beauty supply place ..
>> Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
>> AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
>> Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
>> Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
>> I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
>> OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and molarity.
>> ok .. found his email .. JROD .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)
>>
>> Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more chemistry .
>> Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..
>>
>> Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
>> and after his laughing .. replies .. lol
>>
>> Randy - N2CUA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Randy S.<rj3819@...>
>> To: Homebrew_PCB<homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
>> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>>
>>
>> I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
>> they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.
>>
>> I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.
>>
>> Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
>> and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
>> you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
>> it might not be the case .. though it is the same
>> chemical in this case.
>>
>> Randy - N2CUA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
2011-03-06 by Randy S.
On 3/5/2011 4:40 PM, Harvey White wrote:
> On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:54:37 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>
> Stuff they sell in beauty shops is designed to be nice to your scalp,
> so has (most likely) extra ingredients, so you now will have long
> silky flexible PC boards that shine as if this was your normal PC
> board color.
>
> I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
>
> Harvey
>
>
>> Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
>> I went to the beauty supply place ..
>> Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
>> AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
>> Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
>> Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
>> I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
>> OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and molarity.
>> ok .. found his email .. JROD .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)
>>
>> Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more chemistry .
>> Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..
>>
>> Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
>> and after his laughing .. replies .. lol
>>
>> Randy - N2CUA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Randy S.<rj3819@...>
>> To: Homebrew_PCB<homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
>> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>>
>>
>> I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
>> they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.
>>
>> I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.
>>
>> Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
>> and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
>> you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
>> it might not be the case .. though it is the same
>> chemical in this case.
>>
>> Randy - N2CUA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-03-06 by Roland F. Harriston
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> I buy and use 27% hydrogen peroxide sold at the pool supply store ...
> It seems some people don't like green hair caused by chlorine that most
> people
> put in their pools. The people that I have questioned about using 27%
> H2O2 in
> their pool say it is better than the chlorine.
> One gallon of 27% H2O2 costs $19
> I save my used etch (it is dark green) and add about 7 milliliters of
> 27% H2O2
> to 300 ml of used etch to etch a board.
> Jim KI6MZ
>
> On 3/5/2011 4:40 PM, Harvey White wrote:
> > On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:54:37 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
> >
> > Stuff they sell in beauty shops is designed to be nice to your scalp,
> > so has (most likely) extra ingredients, so you now will have long
> > silky flexible PC boards that shine as if this was your normal PC
> > board color.
> >
> > I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
> >
> > Harvey
> >
> >
> >> Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
> >> I went to the beauty supply place ..
> >> Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
> >> AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
> >> Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
> >> Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
> >> I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
> >> OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and molarity.
> >> ok .. found his email .. JROD .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)
> >>
> >> Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more
> chemistry .
> >> Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..
> >>
> >> Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
> >> and after his laughing .. replies .. lol
> >>
> >> Randy - N2CUA
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Randy S.<rj3819@... <mailto:rj3819%40yahoo.com>>
> >> To: Homebrew_PCB<homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:homebrew_pcbs%40yahoogroups.com>>
> >> Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
> >> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
> >>
> >>
> >> I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
> >> they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.
> >>
> >> I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.
> >>
> >> Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
> >> and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
> >> you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
> >> it might not be the case .. though it is the same
> >> chemical in this case.
> >>
> >> Randy - N2CUA
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------------
> >>
> >> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> >> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
2011-03-06 by Stefan Trethan
On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 7:52 AM, Roland F. Harriston <rolohar@...> wrote:
> I think you have things a little screwed up.
> I think that you (if you actually do) purchase muriatic acid, which is
> actually
> about 27% (30 Baume) hydrochloric acid from your
> pool supply store, or local building supply or super market, and you
> most likely purchase hydrogen PEROXIDE
> (about 2 or 3 %) from your local drug/variety store.
>
> Wow! this thread gets more silly as it progresses.
>
> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
> ***********************
>
>
2011-03-06 by Roland F. Harriston
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> No, pool supply stores also sell hydrogen peroxyde and 27% seems to be
> what I remember as well.
> But it was more expensive thant the 30% stuff from the chemicals shop.
>
> ST
>
> On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 7:52 AM, Roland F. Harriston
> <rolohar@... <mailto:rolohar%40comcast.net>> wrote:
> > I think you have things a little screwed up.
> > I think that you (if you actually do) purchase muriatic acid, which is
> > actually
> > about 27% (30 Baume) hydrochloric acid from your
> > pool supply store, or local building supply or super market, and you
> > most likely purchase hydrogen PEROXIDE
> > (about 2 or 3 %) from your local drug/variety store.
> >
> > Wow! this thread gets more silly as it progresses.
> >
> > Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
> > ***********************
> >
> >
>
>
2011-03-06 by Boman33
2011-03-06 by Jim
On 3/5/2011 10:43 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> Thanks Jim ..
> Glad I'm not the only one. Though I havent tried yet.
> What ratio of that 27% peroxide to hydrochloric acid?
>
> Randy
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Jim<jhutch17@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sun, March 6, 2011 1:25:15 AM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>
>
> I buy and use 27% hydrogen peroxide sold at the pool supply store ...
> It seems some people don't like green hair caused by chlorine that most
> people
> put in their pools. The people that I have questioned about using 27%
> H2O2 in
> their pool say it is better than the chlorine.
> One gallon of 27% H2O2 costs $19
> I save my used etch (it is dark green) and add about 7 milliliters of
> 27% H2O2
> to 300 ml of used etch to etch a board.
> Jim KI6MZ
>
> On 3/5/2011 4:40 PM, Harvey White wrote:
>> On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:54:37 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>>
>> Stuff they sell in beauty shops is designed to be nice to your scalp,
>> so has (most likely) extra ingredients, so you now will have long
>> silky flexible PC boards that shine as if this was your normal PC
>> board color.
>>
>> I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
>>
>> Harvey
>>
>>
>>> Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
>>> I went to the beauty supply place ..
>>> Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
>>> AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
>>> Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
>>> Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
>>> I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
>>> OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and molarity.
>>> ok .. found his email .. JROD .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)
>>>
>>> Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more chemistry .
>>> Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..
>>>
>>> Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
>>> and after his laughing .. replies .. lol
>>>
>>> Randy - N2CUA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: Randy S.<rj3819@...>
>>> To: Homebrew_PCB<homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
>>> Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
>>> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>>>
>>>
>>> I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
>>> they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.
>>>
>>> I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.
>>>
>>> Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
>>> and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
>>> you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
>>> it might not be the case .. though it is the same
>>> chemical in this case.
>>>
>>> Randy - N2CUA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------
>>>
>>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
2011-03-06 by Jim
On 3/5/2011 10:52 PM, Roland F. Harriston wrote:
> I think you have things a little screwed up.
> I think that you (if you actually do) purchase muriatic acid, which is
> actually
> about 27% (30 Baume) hydrochloric acid from your
> pool supply store, or local building supply or super market, and you
> most likely purchase hydrogen PEROXIDE
> (about 2 or 3 %) from your local drug/variety store.
>
> Wow! this thread gets more silly as it progresses.
>
> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
> ***********************
>
>
> Jim wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> I buy and use 27% hydrogen peroxide sold at the pool supply store ...
>> It seems some people don't like green hair caused by chlorine that most
>> people
>> put in their pools. The people that I have questioned about using 27%
>> H2O2 in
>> their pool say it is better than the chlorine.
>> One gallon of 27% H2O2 costs $19
>> I save my used etch (it is dark green) and add about 7 milliliters of
>> 27% H2O2
>> to 300 ml of used etch to etch a board.
>> Jim KI6MZ
>>
>> On 3/5/2011 4:40 PM, Harvey White wrote:
>>> On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:54:37 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>>>
>>> Stuff they sell in beauty shops is designed to be nice to your scalp,
>>> so has (most likely) extra ingredients, so you now will have long
>>> silky flexible PC boards that shine as if this was your normal PC
>>> board color.
>>>
>>> I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
>>>
>>> Harvey
>>>
>>>
>>>> Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
>>>> I went to the beauty supply place ..
>>>> Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
>>>> AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
>>>> Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
>>>> Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
>>>> I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
>>>> OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and molarity.
>>>> ok .. found his email .. JROD .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)
>>>>
>>>> Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more
>> chemistry .
>>>> Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..
>>>>
>>>> Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
>>>> and after his laughing .. replies .. lol
>>>>
>>>> Randy - N2CUA
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ________________________________
>>>> From: Randy S.<rj3819@...<mailto:rj3819%40yahoo.com>>
>>>> To: Homebrew_PCB<homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com
>> <mailto:homebrew_pcbs%40yahoogroups.com>>
>>>> Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
>>>> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
>>>> they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.
>>>>
>>>> I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.
>>>>
>>>> Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
>>>> and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
>>>> you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
>>>> it might not be the case .. though it is the same
>>>> chemical in this case.
>>>>
>>>> Randy - N2CUA
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
>> Photos:
>>>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------
>>>
>>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
>> Photos:
>>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
2011-03-06 by Roland F. Harriston
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> It is a basic problems with news groups and list: A lot of good info is
> provided but over time it gets buried in countless other good and bad
> messages. It is very difficult for a new member or anyone to find the good
> info.
>
> There ought to be a way to have a Wiki linked to the group so basic
> procedures and standard techniques and questions would be easy to find.
>
> Bertho
>
> From: Roland F. Harriston Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2011 17:24
> Again, I ask..........why are we discussing this ancient topic?
>
> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
> ********************
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
2011-03-06 by Roland F. Harriston
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Roland ... you seem to have difficulty reading an e-mail as written !!!
> Jim KI6MZ
>
> On 3/5/2011 10:52 PM, Roland F. Harriston wrote:
> > I think you have things a little screwed up.
> > I think that you (if you actually do) purchase muriatic acid, which is
> > actually
> > about 27% (30 Baume) hydrochloric acid from your
> > pool supply store, or local building supply or super market, and you
> > most likely purchase hydrogen PEROXIDE
> > (about 2 or 3 %) from your local drug/variety store.
> >
> > Wow! this thread gets more silly as it progresses.
> >
> > Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
> > ***********************
> >
> >
> > Jim wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> I buy and use 27% hydrogen peroxide sold at the pool supply store ...
> >> It seems some people don't like green hair caused by chlorine that most
> >> people
> >> put in their pools. The people that I have questioned about using 27%
> >> H2O2 in
> >> their pool say it is better than the chlorine.
> >> One gallon of 27% H2O2 costs $19
> >> I save my used etch (it is dark green) and add about 7 milliliters of
> >> 27% H2O2
> >> to 300 ml of used etch to etch a board.
> >> Jim KI6MZ
> >>
> >> On 3/5/2011 4:40 PM, Harvey White wrote:
> >>> On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:54:37 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Stuff they sell in beauty shops is designed to be nice to your scalp,
> >>> so has (most likely) extra ingredients, so you now will have long
> >>> silky flexible PC boards that shine as if this was your normal PC
> >>> board color.
> >>>
> >>> I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
> >>>
> >>> Harvey
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
> >>>> I went to the beauty supply place ..
> >>>> Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
> >>>> AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
> >>>> Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
> >>>> Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
> >>>> I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
> >>>> OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and
> molarity.
> >>>> ok .. found his email .. JROD .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)
> >>>>
> >>>> Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more
> >> chemistry .
> >>>> Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..
> >>>>
> >>>> Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
> >>>> and after his laughing .. replies .. lol
> >>>>
> >>>> Randy - N2CUA
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> ________________________________
> >>>> From: Randy S.<rj3819@...
> <mailto:rj3819%40yahoo.com><mailto:rj3819%40yahoo.com>>
> >>>> To: Homebrew_PCB<homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:homebrew_pcbs%40yahoogroups.com>
> >> <mailto:homebrew_pcbs%40yahoogroups.com>>
> >>>> Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
> >>>> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
> >>>> they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.
> >>>>
> >>>> I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.
> >>>>
> >>>> Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
> >>>> and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
> >>>> you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
> >>>> it might not be the case .. though it is the same
> >>>> chemical in this case.
> >>>>
> >>>> Randy - N2CUA
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> ------------------------------------
> >>>>
> >>>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> >> Photos:
> >>>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> ------------------------------------
> >>>
> >>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> >> Photos:
> >>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
2011-03-07 by Randy S.
On 3/5/2011 10:43 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> Thanks Jim ..
> Glad I'm not the only one. Though I havent tried yet.
> What ratio of that 27% peroxide to hydrochloric acid?
>
> Randy
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Jim<jhutch17@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sun, March 6, 2011 1:25:15 AM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>
>
> I buy and use 27% hydrogen peroxide sold at the pool supply store ...
> It seems some people don't like green hair caused by chlorine that most
> people
> put in their pools. The people that I have questioned about using 27%
> H2O2 in
> their pool say it is better than the chlorine.
> One gallon of 27% H2O2 costs $19
> I save my used etch (it is dark green) and add about 7 milliliters of
> 27% H2O2
> to 300 ml of used etch to etch a board.
> Jim KI6MZ
>
> On 3/5/2011 4:40 PM, Harvey White wrote:
>> On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:54:37 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>>
>> Stuff they sell in beauty shops is designed to be nice to your scalp,
>> so has (most likely) extra ingredients, so you now will have long
>> silky flexible PC boards that shine as if this was your normal PC
>> board color.
>>
>> I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
>>
>> Harvey
>>
>>
>>> Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
>>> I went to the beauty supply place ..
>>> Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
>>> AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
>>> Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
>>> Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
>>> I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
>>> OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and molarity.
>>> ok .. found his email .. JROD .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)
>>>
>>> Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more chemistry .
>>> Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..
>>>
>>> Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
>>> and after his laughing .. replies .. lol
>>>
>>> Randy - N2CUA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: Randy S.<rj3819@...>
>>> To: Homebrew_PCB<homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
>>> Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
>>> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>>>
>>>
>>> I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
>>> they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.
>>>
>>> I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.
>>>
>>> Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
>>> and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
>>> you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
>>> it might not be the case .. though it is the same
>>> chemical in this case.
>>>
>>> Randy - N2CUA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------
>>>
>>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-03-07 by Randy S.
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> It is a basic problems with news groups and list: A lot of good info is
> provided but over time it gets buried in countless other good and bad
> messages. It is very difficult for a new member or anyone to find the good
> info.
>
> There ought to be a way to have a Wiki linked to the group so basic
> procedures and standard techniques and questions would be easy to find.
>
> Bertho
>
> From: Roland F. Harriston Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2011 17:24
> Again, I ask..........why are we discussing this ancient topic?
>
> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
> ********************
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
2011-03-07 by James Newton
>http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcbs.htm
> It is a basic problems with news groups and list: A lot of good info is
> provided but over time it gets buried in countless other good and bad
> messages. It is very difficult for a new member or anyone to find the good
> info.
>
>
>
> There ought to be a way to have a Wiki linked to the group so basic
> procedures and standard techniques and questions would be easy to find.
>
> Bertho
>
2011-03-07 by Roland F. Harriston
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote:
> >
> > It is a basic problems with news groups and list: A lot of good info is
> > provided but over time it gets buried in countless other good and bad
> > messages. It is very difficult for a new member or anyone to find
> the good
> > info.
> >
> >
> >
> > There ought to be a way to have a Wiki linked to the group so basic
> > procedures and standard techniques and questions would be easy to find.
> >
> > Bertho
> >
>
>
> <http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcbs.htm>
>
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>
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2011-03-07 by Boman33
> It is a basic problems with news groups and list: A lot of good info ishttp://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcbs.htm
> provided but over time it gets buried in countless other good and bad
> messages. It is very difficult for a new member or anyone to find the good
> info. There ought to be a way to have a Wiki linked to the group so basic
> procedures and standard techniques and questions would be easy to find.
> Bertho
>
2011-03-07 by Randy S.
> It is a basic problems with news groups and list: A lot of good info ishttp://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcbs.htm
> provided but over time it gets buried in countless other good and bad
> messages. It is very difficult for a new member or anyone to find the good
> info. There ought to be a way to have a Wiki linked to the group so basic
> procedures and standard techniques and questions would be easy to find.
> Bertho
>
2011-03-07 by Wayne Topa
>Anyone joining this group should refer to the group archives where a
>
> Maybe the groups should be renamed
> to Advanced_Homebrew_PCBs
>
2011-03-07 by Roland F. Harriston
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> On 03/07/2011 02:25 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> >
> >
> > Maybe the groups should be renamed
> > to Advanced_Homebrew_PCBs
> >
>
> Anyone joining this group should refer to the group archives where a
> wealth of knowledge already exists. For those of us that have been the
> group for years know, the recent questions have been asked, and answered
> many times before.
>
> If a new member is not willing to do some research on their own, before
> asking the group for help, I myself just blacklist ( ie dump as spam)
> that member.
>
> -- Give a man a fish, feed him for a day
> Teach a man to fish, feed him for life.
>
>
2011-03-09 by AlienRelics
>So... did you mean:
> On 03/07/2011 02:25 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> >
> >
> > Maybe the groups should be renamed
> > to Advanced_Homebrew_PCBs
> >
>
> Anyone joining this group should refer to the group archives where a
> wealth of knowledge already exists. For those of us that have been the
> group for years know, the recent questions have been asked, and answered
> many times before.
>
> If a new member is not willing to do some research on their own, before
> asking the group for help, I myself just blacklist ( ie dump as spam)
> that member.
>
> -- Give a man a fish, feed him for a day
> Teach a man to fish, feed him for life.
2011-03-09 by Jim Tonne
2011-03-09 by Wayne Topa
>Negative. I don't report ANY of this groups mail as SPAM. I Blacklist
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, Wayne Topa <linuxtwo@...> wrote:
> >
> > On 03/07/2011 02:25 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Maybe the groups should be renamed
> > > to Advanced_Homebrew_PCBs
> > >
> >
> > Anyone joining this group should refer to the group archives where a
> > wealth of knowledge already exists. For those of us that have been the
> > group for years know, the recent questions have been asked, and answered
> > many times before.
> >
> > If a new member is not willing to do some research on their own, before
> > asking the group for help, I myself just blacklist ( ie dump as spam)
> > that member.
> >
> > -- Give a man a fish, feed him for a day
> > Teach a man to fish, feed him for life.
>
> So... did you mean:
>
> "Give a man a fish, feed him for a day
> Treat a man with scorn for asking me about lures, then blacklist him."
>
> Are you saying that you are marking list messages as spam when you don't
> like the question? So you are why my Yahoogroups keep ending up in the
> spam folder.
>
> This list is for newbies, too. Often the biggest obstacle to findingThat is what I do now. My use of the term "Spam" was in error.
> information is not knowing the correct words to search for. If a
> question bugs you, I suggest you just delete it.
>I did not mean for my post to be a Gripe. It was intended to inform a
> I looked into moving this over to a forum on my webserver. It might have
> made it easier to split up subjects and make FAQs, but it was met with
> mighty resistance. Are you willing to write a FAQ, or just gripe about it?
2011-03-09 by RJ
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Tonne" <tonne@...> wrote:
>
>
> Steve:
>
> I am a "lurker" on this list and am following this
> peroxide and HCl with great interest.
>
> I keep looking for a straightforward answer to
> the what to use, in what strengths, and in what
> proportions.
>
> About the time I think I have an answer then
> someone comes along and complains about
> the subject. Fact of the matter is the subject
> seems to have more than one answer, for
> reasons I still have not understood.
>
> Instead of complaining, folks should simply
> tell what they use (this includes percentage
> strength) and why.
>
> That will wrap up the inquiries and the Delete
> button will see less use.
>
> - Jim W4ENE
>
2011-03-10 by Ben L
> > I am a "lurker" on this list and am following thisAs for want to use. Hydrochloric Acid sold as Pool and Concrete Cleaner and Drug Store 3% Hydrogen Peroxide.
> > peroxide and HCl with great interest.
> >
> > I keep looking for a straightforward answer to
> > the what to use, in what strengths, and in what
> > proportions.
> >
> > About the time I think I have an answer then
> > someone comes along and complains about
> > the subject. Fact of the matter is the subject
> > seems to have more than one answer, for
> > reasons I still have not understood.
>
2011-03-10 by Erik Knise
>(I have been writing this all day a little bit at a time while I was at work.)
>> > I am a "lurker" on this list and am following this
>> > peroxide and HCl with great interest.
>> >
>> > I keep looking for a straightforward answer to
>> > the what to use, in what strengths, and in what
>> > proportions.
>> >
>> > About the time I think I have an answer then
>> > someone comes along and complains about
>> > the subject. Fact of the matter is the subject
>> > seems to have more than one answer, for
>> > reasons I still have not understood.
>>
>
> As for want to use. Hydrochloric Acid sold as Pool and Concrete Cleaner and Drug Store 3% Hydrogen Peroxide.
>
> I believe that the Mix is 1 part Hydrochloric Acid to 2 part Hydrogen Peroxide. This should get you started. If you are to regenerate it using Hydrogen Peroxide then you might want to use higher % so you don't water it down too much as the 3% is mostly water. I regenerate with air pumped into the tank, this takes awhile. As the tank level goes down I add some 3% Hydrogen and Hydrochloric Acid.
>
> Look for Adam Seychell paper in the files section on it if you really want to get into the details of this and the real way to maintain it.
> His paper is the real method if you want to maintain it correctly.
>
> The list is for people to learn by asking questions, and the ones on the list that have been around and have the experience should be willing to answer the questions when they feel that they know the answer to it. but if you don't want to answer a question move on to the next message. Pass over ones that the subject is not of interest to you. Deleting a message takes less time than writing a message of complaint.
>
> Sometimes you might find that you learn something by answering someone questions because it makes you think.
>
>
> Ben
>
2011-07-06 by stan_katz
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Erik Knise <elknise@...> wrote:
>
> On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 8:14 PM, Ben L <bhleavi@...> wrote:
> >
> >> > I am a "lurker" on this list and am following this
> >> > peroxide and HCl with great interest.
> >> >
> >> > I keep looking for a straightforward answer to
> >> > the what to use, in what strengths, and in what
> >> > proportions.
> >> >
> >> > About the time I think I have an answer then
> >> > someone comes along and complains about
> >> > the subject. Fact of the matter is the subject
> >> > seems to have more than one answer, for
> >> > reasons I still have not understood.
> >>
> >
> > As for want to use. Hydrochloric Acid sold as Pool and Concrete Cleaner and Drug Store 3% Hydrogen Peroxide.
> >
> > I believe that the Mix is 1 part Hydrochloric Acid to 2 part Hydrogen Peroxide. This should get you started. If you are to regenerate it using Hydrogen Peroxide then you might want to use higher % so you don't water it down too much as the 3% is mostly water. I regenerate with air pumped into the tank, this takes awhile. As the tank level goes down I add some 3% Hydrogen and Hydrochloric Acid.
> >
> > Look for Adam Seychell paper in the files section on it if you really want to get into the details of this and the real way to maintain it.
> > His paper is the real method if you want to maintain it correctly.
> >
> > The list is for people to learn by asking questions, and the ones on the list that have been around and have the experience should be willing to answer the questions when they feel that they know the answer to it. but if you don't want to answer a question move on to the next message. Pass over ones that the subject is not of interest to you. Deleting a message takes less time than writing a message of complaint.
> >
> > Sometimes you might find that you learn something by answering someone questions because it makes you think.
> >
> >
> > Ben
> >
> (I have been writing this all day a little bit at a time while I was at work.)
>
> Okay, first a gripe about this thread. Completely agree with Ben in
> that I think it's great new people are signing up and asking
> questions. I've been subscribed here for a long time also so I have
> seen plenty of redundancy too but we are here to help new people get
> into the hobby of making their own boards not to chastise them.
>
> Doing chemistry by volume is just a bad idea. Weight/mass ratio's are
> much easier to work it.
>
> When etching a board with Cupric Chloride it really doesn't matter
> what strength we use as long as we have the correct proportions of
> H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) and HCL (hydrochloric acid). We only need
> enough volume to cover our board. A stronger solution would be easier
> to store as regnerating with weak H2O2 and HCL would increase the
> volume greatly. Starting off with weak H2O2 and HCL should be
> sufficent for most small runs.
>
> This is how our reaction works:
>
> First we are making Cupric Chloride (CuCl2):
> Cu + H2O2 + 2HCl -> 2H2O + CuCl2
>
> The Copper reacts with the CuCl2 from the previous reaction to form
> Cuprous Chloride (CuCl):
> Cu + CuCl2 -> 2CuCl
>
> The Cuprous Chloride continues to react with the H2O2 and HCL to
> continue the reaction.
> CuCl + H2O2 + 2HCL -> 2H2O + 2CuCl2
>
> It's a chain reaction and these reactions are all happening
> simultaneously but each mole of HCl used dissolves 1 mole of copper.
>
> H2O2 has a molecular mass of 34.0147 grams/mole and HCL is 36.46
> grams/mole. With 100 grams of 3% H2O2 we would have 3 grams or 0.088
> moles of H2O2 (3 grams divided by 34 grams/mole). We would need 0.176
> moles of HCl for the reaction. That would be 0.176 moles x 36.5
> grams/mole = 6.42 grams. With 27% HCl that would be 6.42 devided by
> 27% equals 23.78 grams of 27% HCl Solution. 23.78 grams of HCl per 100
> grams of H2O2 would be a 1:4.2 ratio. This would of course would
> change with different concentrations.
>
> When regenerating our solution by adding more H2O2 and HCl we are
> adding it to a solution of CuCl and water. The reaction above starts
> with 114.374 grams of water and generates another 3.178 grams of water
> so we have roughly 117.5mL of water when the reaction is complete.
> This is why to regenerate the etchant it would be best to use more
> concentrated chemicals so it doesn't get too diluted. If the reaction
> doesn't use up all of the H2O2 and HCL the H2O2 will break down in the
> light to H2O and O2 so regenerating with only H2O2 may work. Add H2O2
> to the CuCL and water solution first. If the reaction starts there was
> HCL left in the solution. When adding H2O2 causes no results it's time
> to add proportionate amounts of both H2O2 and HCl to continue the
> reaction.
>
> ***************
> I've been wanting to do this for a while so I decided to write a
> JavaScript calculator this evening to do the math so you guys can play
> around with the concentration numbers. It can be found here along
> with the complete write up:
> http://www.totse2.com/easy-e/cupricchloride.html
>
>
> All of that should be correct but please let me know if any of my
> chemistry is wrong and I will update my page.
> ***************
> --
> Erik L. Knise
> Seattle, WA
>
2011-07-06 by psykhon@yahoo.com
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "stan_katz" <stan_katz@...> wrote:
>
> Erik,
>
> I'm leaping into the world of Acid Cupric Etchant, as an outside "sport" during fair, warm weather. My intent is to create the regenerable version of this system, not the one-time use many in this group employ. I took note of your calculator. It is intriguing, but to a non-chemist its use is unclear. As a lay person, I would have thought the calculator would compute the optimum ratio of HCL/H202 upon entering their respective weights. However, from what I see, the user must calculate this ratio using your formulas, given above the calculator. That's ok with me, I just need to be clear that was your intent. So... the user is responsible for filling in 4 fields, one of which the user calculates on his own. The grams of copper computed field, does that represent the "starter copper" mentioned by Seychell, or the maximum copper to be held in solution after etching before rebalancing? Also, does this calculator apply to the case where CuCl(II) crystals are used for starting the solution?
>
> Now to try your patience with a question about process control. In both the seminal paper on Acid Cupric Etchant (http://www.xertech.net/Tech/CuCl_ech.html), and Seychell, density can be measured in solution, real-time, with a hydrometer, but acid content has to be determined off-line, either by titration with ph indicator (bromophenol blue), or the Seychell "turbidity end point titration". My internet search seems to confirm that it is infeasable to use a ph meter in the process solution due to numerous factors. As a non-chemist, may I ask if an ORP (Oxidation Reduction Potential) meter would help here? I realize many in this group are young, with high cognitive ability, and can perform process control by eyeball alone, given enough experience with the broth. As a member of the senior contingent, my safest approach is analytical. However I would like to avoid the titration, if it could be replaced with some real-time process control measurement. If the ORP meter is silly, is there any other way to determine acid content in real-time?
>
> Stan
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Erik Knise <elknise@> wrote:
> >
> > On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 8:14 PM, Ben L <bhleavi@> wrote:
> > >
> > >> > I am a "lurker" on this list and am following this
> > >> > peroxide and HCl with great interest.
> > >> >
> > >> > I keep looking for a straightforward answer to
> > >> > the what to use, in what strengths, and in what
> > >> > proportions.
> > >> >
> > >> > About the time I think I have an answer then
> > >> > someone comes along and complains about
> > >> > the subject. Fact of the matter is the subject
> > >> > seems to have more than one answer, for
> > >> > reasons I still have not understood.
> > >>
> > >
> > > As for want to use. Hydrochloric Acid sold as Pool and Concrete Cleaner and Drug Store 3% Hydrogen Peroxide.
> > >
> > > I believe that the Mix is 1 part Hydrochloric Acid to 2 part Hydrogen Peroxide. This should get you started. If you are to regenerate it using Hydrogen Peroxide then you might want to use higher % so you don't water it down too much as the 3% is mostly water. I regenerate with air pumped into the tank, this takes awhile. As the tank level goes down I add some 3% Hydrogen and Hydrochloric Acid.
> > >
> > > Look for Adam Seychell paper in the files section on it if you really want to get into the details of this and the real way to maintain it.
> > > His paper is the real method if you want to maintain it correctly.
> > >
> > > The list is for people to learn by asking questions, and the ones on the list that have been around and have the experience should be willing to answer the questions when they feel that they know the answer to it. but if you don't want to answer a question move on to the next message. Pass over ones that the subject is not of interest to you. Deleting a message takes less time than writing a message of complaint.
> > >
> > > Sometimes you might find that you learn something by answering someone questions because it makes you think.
> > >
> > >
> > > Ben
> > >
> > (I have been writing this all day a little bit at a time while I was at work.)
> >
> > Okay, first a gripe about this thread. Completely agree with Ben in
> > that I think it's great new people are signing up and asking
> > questions. I've been subscribed here for a long time also so I have
> > seen plenty of redundancy too but we are here to help new people get
> > into the hobby of making their own boards not to chastise them.
> >
> > Doing chemistry by volume is just a bad idea. Weight/mass ratio's are
> > much easier to work it.
> >
> > When etching a board with Cupric Chloride it really doesn't matter
> > what strength we use as long as we have the correct proportions of
> > H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) and HCL (hydrochloric acid). We only need
> > enough volume to cover our board. A stronger solution would be easier
> > to store as regnerating with weak H2O2 and HCL would increase the
> > volume greatly. Starting off with weak H2O2 and HCL should be
> > sufficent for most small runs.
> >
> > This is how our reaction works:
> >
> > First we are making Cupric Chloride (CuCl2):
> > Cu + H2O2 + 2HCl -> 2H2O + CuCl2
> >
> > The Copper reacts with the CuCl2 from the previous reaction to form
> > Cuprous Chloride (CuCl):
> > Cu + CuCl2 -> 2CuCl
> >
> > The Cuprous Chloride continues to react with the H2O2 and HCL to
> > continue the reaction.
> > CuCl + H2O2 + 2HCL -> 2H2O + 2CuCl2
> >
> > It's a chain reaction and these reactions are all happening
> > simultaneously but each mole of HCl used dissolves 1 mole of copper.
> >
> > H2O2 has a molecular mass of 34.0147 grams/mole and HCL is 36.46
> > grams/mole. With 100 grams of 3% H2O2 we would have 3 grams or 0.088
> > moles of H2O2 (3 grams divided by 34 grams/mole). We would need 0.176
> > moles of HCl for the reaction. That would be 0.176 moles x 36.5
> > grams/mole = 6.42 grams. With 27% HCl that would be 6.42 devided by
> > 27% equals 23.78 grams of 27% HCl Solution. 23.78 grams of HCl per 100
> > grams of H2O2 would be a 1:4.2 ratio. This would of course would
> > change with different concentrations.
> >
> > When regenerating our solution by adding more H2O2 and HCl we are
> > adding it to a solution of CuCl and water. The reaction above starts
> > with 114.374 grams of water and generates another 3.178 grams of water
> > so we have roughly 117.5mL of water when the reaction is complete.
> > This is why to regenerate the etchant it would be best to use more
> > concentrated chemicals so it doesn't get too diluted. If the reaction
> > doesn't use up all of the H2O2 and HCL the H2O2 will break down in the
> > light to H2O and O2 so regenerating with only H2O2 may work. Add H2O2
> > to the CuCL and water solution first. If the reaction starts there was
> > HCL left in the solution. When adding H2O2 causes no results it's time
> > to add proportionate amounts of both H2O2 and HCl to continue the
> > reaction.
> >
> > ***************
> > I've been wanting to do this for a while so I decided to write a
> > JavaScript calculator this evening to do the math so you guys can play
> > around with the concentration numbers. It can be found here along
> > with the complete write up:
> > http://www.totse2.com/easy-e/cupricchloride.html
> >
> >
> > All of that should be correct but please let me know if any of my
> > chemistry is wrong and I will update my page.
> > ***************
> > --
> > Erik L. Knise
> > Seattle, WA
> >
>
2011-07-06 by stan_katz
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, psykhon@... wrote:
>
>
> Stan:
> A very dirty method to adjust acid level: you normally regenerate the solution with peroxide but, when the acid "depletes" and you keep adding peroxide, it will make a soft reaction and start bubling. In this point you should add more acid.
> I know how dirt this method is but is effective and seems safe as long as you pour the peroxide softly each time.
> I make large pcbs frequently and this works great every time
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "stan_katz" <stan_katz@> wrote:
> >
> > Erik,
> >
> > I'm leaping into the world of Acid Cupric Etchant, as an outside "sport" during fair, warm weather. My intent is to create the regenerable version of this system, not the one-time use many in this group employ. I took note of your calculator. It is intriguing, but to a non-chemist its use is unclear. As a lay person, I would have thought the calculator would compute the optimum ratio of HCL/H202 upon entering their respective weights. However, from what I see, the user must calculate this ratio using your formulas, given above the calculator. That's ok with me, I just need to be clear that was your intent. So... the user is responsible for filling in 4 fields, one of which the user calculates on his own. The grams of copper computed field, does that represent the "starter copper" mentioned by Seychell, or the maximum copper to be held in solution after etching before rebalancing? Also, does this calculator apply to the case where CuCl(II) crystals are used for starting the solution?
> >
> > Now to try your patience with a question about process control. In both the seminal paper on Acid Cupric Etchant (http://www.xertech.net/Tech/CuCl_ech.html), and Seychell, density can be measured in solution, real-time, with a hydrometer, but acid content has to be determined off-line, either by titration with ph indicator (bromophenol blue), or the Seychell "turbidity end point titration". My internet search seems to confirm that it is infeasable to use a ph meter in the process solution due to numerous factors. As a non-chemist, may I ask if an ORP (Oxidation Reduction Potential) meter would help here? I realize many in this group are young, with high cognitive ability, and can perform process control by eyeball alone, given enough experience with the broth. As a member of the senior contingent, my safest approach is analytical. However I would like to avoid the titration, if it could be replaced with some real-time process control measurement. If the ORP meter is silly, is there any other way to determine acid content in real-time?
> >
> > Stan
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Erik Knise <elknise@> wrote:
> > >
> > > On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 8:14 PM, Ben L <bhleavi@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >> > I am a "lurker" on this list and am following this
> > > >> > peroxide and HCl with great interest.
> > > >> >
> > > >> > I keep looking for a straightforward answer to
> > > >> > the what to use, in what strengths, and in what
> > > >> > proportions.
> > > >> >
> > > >> > About the time I think I have an answer then
> > > >> > someone comes along and complains about
> > > >> > the subject. Fact of the matter is the subject
> > > >> > seems to have more than one answer, for
> > > >> > reasons I still have not understood.
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > > As for want to use. Hydrochloric Acid sold as Pool and Concrete Cleaner and Drug Store 3% Hydrogen Peroxide.
> > > >
> > > > I believe that the Mix is 1 part Hydrochloric Acid to 2 part Hydrogen Peroxide. This should get you started. If you are to regenerate it using Hydrogen Peroxide then you might want to use higher % so you don't water it down too much as the 3% is mostly water. I regenerate with air pumped into the tank, this takes awhile. As the tank level goes down I add some 3% Hydrogen and Hydrochloric Acid.
> > > >
> > > > Look for Adam Seychell paper in the files section on it if you really want to get into the details of this and the real way to maintain it.
> > > > His paper is the real method if you want to maintain it correctly.
> > > >
> > > > The list is for people to learn by asking questions, and the ones on the list that have been around and have the experience should be willing to answer the questions when they feel that they know the answer to it. but if you don't want to answer a question move on to the next message. Pass over ones that the subject is not of interest to you. Deleting a message takes less time than writing a message of complaint.
> > > >
> > > > Sometimes you might find that you learn something by answering someone questions because it makes you think.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Ben
> > > >
> > > (I have been writing this all day a little bit at a time while I was at work.)
> > >
> > > Okay, first a gripe about this thread. Completely agree with Ben in
> > > that I think it's great new people are signing up and asking
> > > questions. I've been subscribed here for a long time also so I have
> > > seen plenty of redundancy too but we are here to help new people get
> > > into the hobby of making their own boards not to chastise them.
> > >
> > > Doing chemistry by volume is just a bad idea. Weight/mass ratio's are
> > > much easier to work it.
> > >
> > > When etching a board with Cupric Chloride it really doesn't matter
> > > what strength we use as long as we have the correct proportions of
> > > H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) and HCL (hydrochloric acid). We only need
> > > enough volume to cover our board. A stronger solution would be easier
> > > to store as regnerating with weak H2O2 and HCL would increase the
> > > volume greatly. Starting off with weak H2O2 and HCL should be
> > > sufficent for most small runs.
> > >
> > > This is how our reaction works:
> > >
> > > First we are making Cupric Chloride (CuCl2):
> > > Cu + H2O2 + 2HCl -> 2H2O + CuCl2
> > >
> > > The Copper reacts with the CuCl2 from the previous reaction to form
> > > Cuprous Chloride (CuCl):
> > > Cu + CuCl2 -> 2CuCl
> > >
> > > The Cuprous Chloride continues to react with the H2O2 and HCL to
> > > continue the reaction.
> > > CuCl + H2O2 + 2HCL -> 2H2O + 2CuCl2
> > >
> > > It's a chain reaction and these reactions are all happening
> > > simultaneously but each mole of HCl used dissolves 1 mole of copper.
> > >
> > > H2O2 has a molecular mass of 34.0147 grams/mole and HCL is 36.46
> > > grams/mole. With 100 grams of 3% H2O2 we would have 3 grams or 0.088
> > > moles of H2O2 (3 grams divided by 34 grams/mole). We would need 0.176
> > > moles of HCl for the reaction. That would be 0.176 moles x 36.5
> > > grams/mole = 6.42 grams. With 27% HCl that would be 6.42 devided by
> > > 27% equals 23.78 grams of 27% HCl Solution. 23.78 grams of HCl per 100
> > > grams of H2O2 would be a 1:4.2 ratio. This would of course would
> > > change with different concentrations.
> > >
> > > When regenerating our solution by adding more H2O2 and HCl we are
> > > adding it to a solution of CuCl and water. The reaction above starts
> > > with 114.374 grams of water and generates another 3.178 grams of water
> > > so we have roughly 117.5mL of water when the reaction is complete.
> > > This is why to regenerate the etchant it would be best to use more
> > > concentrated chemicals so it doesn't get too diluted. If the reaction
> > > doesn't use up all of the H2O2 and HCL the H2O2 will break down in the
> > > light to H2O and O2 so regenerating with only H2O2 may work. Add H2O2
> > > to the CuCL and water solution first. If the reaction starts there was
> > > HCL left in the solution. When adding H2O2 causes no results it's time
> > > to add proportionate amounts of both H2O2 and HCl to continue the
> > > reaction.
> > >
> > > ***************
> > > I've been wanting to do this for a while so I decided to write a
> > > JavaScript calculator this evening to do the math so you guys can play
> > > around with the concentration numbers. It can be found here along
> > > with the complete write up:
> > > http://www.totse2.com/easy-e/cupricchloride.html
> > >
> > >
> > > All of that should be correct but please let me know if any of my
> > > chemistry is wrong and I will update my page.
> > > ***************
> > > --
> > > Erik L. Knise
> > > Seattle, WA
> > >
> >
>
2011-07-11 by Darren
2011-07-11 by Kamal Shankar
>________________________________
>From: Darren <hillio888@...>
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Monday, July 11, 2011 11:29 AM
>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>
>
>
>I just joined this group, and haven't read through the messages, but I thought I would throw my .02 cents in on this one.
>As far as regenerating CuCl2 etchant, O3 works about as well as anything I've tried. Small tube style 03 generators aren't hard to make, assuming that one has any technical ability at all. The process goes faster if one uses O2 to feed the generator as opposed to air, but the method still works fine with regular air. A very small amount of HNO3 can be generated if the air used to feed the generator contains moisture, but HNO3 is a great oxidizer, and would only help the process in my opinion.
2011-07-12 by psykhon@yahoo.com
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Darren" <hillio888@...> wrote:
>
> I just joined this group, and haven't read through the messages, but I thought I would throw my .02 cents in on this one.
> As far as regenerating CuCl2 etchant, O3 works about as well as anything I've tried. Small tube style 03 generators aren't hard to make, assuming that one has any technical ability at all. The process goes faster if one uses O2 to feed the generator as opposed to air, but the method still works fine with regular air. A very small amount of HNO3 can be generated if the air used to feed the generator contains moisture, but HNO3 is a great oxidizer, and would only help the process in my opinion.
>
2011-07-18 by Ben L
> I am finding it difficult to obtain > 3% H202 myself, and since the only purpose of H202 is to generate oxygen, I would very much like to know how to generate ozone instead, as I believe it's a much stronger oxodizing agent?I normally use a air pump to pump air into the tank.
>
> Also - I meant to ask everyone: is heating HCl + H202 or CuCl2 etchant useful the way it is in case of FeCl3 or is it simply a misconception?
>
2011-07-18 by Kamal Shankar
>________________________________[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>From: Ben L <bhleavi@...>
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 7:04 PM
>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>
>
>
>
>> I am finding it difficult to obtain > 3% H202 myself, and since the only purpose of H202 is to generate oxygen, I would very much like to know how to generate ozone instead, as I believe it's a much stronger oxodizing agent?
>>
>> Also - I meant to ask everyone: is heating HCl + H202 or CuCl2 etchant useful the way it is in case of FeCl3 or is it simply a misconception?
>>
>
>I normally use a air pump to pump air into the tank.
>
>Try a Beauty Supply for stronger than 3%.
>
>Ben_,___
>
>
2011-07-18 by Norm
On 7/17/2011 8:07 PM, Kamal Shankar wrote:
>
> Thanks Ben.
>
> I read somewhere that the best mix for H2O2 + HCl is:
>
> "20% H2O2 at 35%
> 20% HCl at 32%
> 60% water to etch the copper. This needs to be done outside (vapors),
> the board is etched in 30s"
>
> Would a beauty shop have 35% H2O2?
>
> I also read that some people use a heater to warm up HCl + H202 or
> CuCl2 etchant just like in case of FeCl3!
>
> Does heating help?
>
> >________________________________
> >From: Ben L <bhleavi@... <mailto:bhleavi%40yahoo.com>>
> >To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> >Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 7:04 PM
> >Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> I am finding it difficult to obtain > 3% H202 myself, and since the
> only purpose of H202 is to generate oxygen, I would very much like to
> know how to generate ozone instead, as I believe it's a much stronger
> oxodizing agent?
> >>
> >> Also - I meant to ask everyone: is heating HCl + H202 or CuCl2
> etchant useful the way it is in case of FeCl3 or is it simply a
> misconception?
> >>
> >
> >I normally use a air pump to pump air into the tank.
> >
> >Try a Beauty Supply for stronger than 3%.
> >
> >Ben_,___
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-07-18 by Kamal Shankar
2011-07-18 by Peter Loron
On Jul 18, 2011, at 12:31 AM, Kamal Shankar wrote:
> How important is the RPM of the drill we use on a PCB?
>
>
>
> What would the difference be between a 1750 RPM vs a 10k RPM drill regarding drilling on a PCB? (I always thought higher RPM -> lower torque to drill a hole, but I read higher RPM is better?)
>
> There is a dremel I have been using for sometime using HSS bits that I have used on my FR2 boards.
>
> Now that I am going to migrate to a thinner FR-4 substrate, I am looking forward to buying a good minidrill that also has a stand (since I will be using carbide bits)
>
> Does anyone have feedback on these:
>
> $44 Proxxon 28512 12-Volt Micromot 50 EF Rotary Tool
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28512-12-Volt-Micromot-Rotary/dp/B000S5KO3K/ref=acc_glance_hi_ai_ps_t_5
>
>
> $59 Proxxon 28606 MICROMOT Drill Stand MB 140/ S
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28606-MICROMOT-Drill-Stand/dp/B000209ZAE/ref=pd_cp_hi_4
>
>
> They don't seem to make these in the US (they supposedly make them under a different name "Micro-Mark", but I am not sure if they are the same quality)
>
> The price looks like $120 incl. shipping which is a good price for a brand new precision "drill press" don't you think?
>
> If you have any better tools to suggest, I would be glad to know about them!
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
2011-07-18 by Mark Lerman
>Don't know about the ratios, but I think the H2O2 is 35 VOLUME , which
>is ~10%. Beauty shop suppliers will have 30 and 40 VOLUME, which
>correspond to ~9% and ~12% H2O2. It's relatively inexpensive - a quart
>cost me about $5.00 last time I bought some.
>
>Norm
>W6NIM
>
>On 7/17/2011 8:07 PM, Kamal Shankar wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Ben.
> >
> > I read somewhere that the best mix for H2O2 + HCl is:
> >
> > "20% H2O2 at 35%
> > 20% HCl at 32%
> > 60% water to etch the copper. This needs to be done outside (vapors),
> > the board is etched in 30s"
> >
> > Would a beauty shop have 35% H2O2?
> >
> > I also read that some people use a heater to warm up HCl + H202 or
> > CuCl2 etchant just like in case of FeCl3!
> >
> > Does heating help?
> >
> > >________________________________
> > >From: Ben L <bhleavi@... <mailto:bhleavi%40yahoo.com>>
> > >To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > >Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 7:04 PM
> > >Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >> I am finding it difficult to obtain > 3% H202 myself, and since the
> > only purpose of H202 is to generate oxygen, I would very much like to
> > know how to generate ozone instead, as I believe it's a much stronger
> > oxodizing agent?
> > >>
> > >> Also - I meant to ask everyone: is heating HCl + H202 or CuCl2
> > etchant useful the way it is in case of FeCl3 or is it simply a
> > misconception?
> > >>
> > >
> > >I normally use a air pump to pump air into the tank.
> > >
> > >Try a Beauty Supply for stronger than 3%.
> > >
> > >Ben_,___
> > >
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
2011-07-18 by pawel.labedz
2011-07-18 by Stefan Trethan
On Mon, Jul 18, 2011 at 9:31 AM, Kamal Shankar <kbshankar2000@...> wrote:
> How important is the RPM of the drill we use on a PCB?
>
>
>
> What would the difference be between a 1750 RPM vs a 10k RPM drill regarding drilling on a PCB? (I always thought higher RPM -> lower torque to drill a hole, but I read higher RPM is better?)
>
> There is a dremel I have been using for sometime using HSS bits that I have used on my FR2 boards.
>
> Now that I am going to migrate to a thinner FR-4 substrate, I am looking forward to buying a good minidrill that also has a stand (since I will be using carbide bits)
>
> Does anyone have feedback on these:
>
> $44 Proxxon 28512 12-Volt Micromot 50 EF Rotary Tool
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28512-12-Volt-Micromot-Rotary/dp/B000S5KO3K/ref=acc_glance_hi_ai_ps_t_5
>
>
> $59 Proxxon 28606 MICROMOT Drill Stand MB 140/ S
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28606-MICROMOT-Drill-Stand/dp/B000209ZAE/ref=pd_cp_hi_4
>
>
> They don't seem to make these in the US (they supposedly make them under a different name "Micro-Mark", but I am not sure if they are the same quality)
>
> The price looks like $120 incl. shipping which is a good price for a brand new precision "drill press" don't you think?
>
> If you have any better tools to suggest, I would be glad to know about them!
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
2011-07-18 by Jeff Heiss
On 7/18/2011 12:13 PM, Stefan Trethan wrote:
>
> The 12V Proxxon will be fine to drill PCBs, but it will begin to
> struggle for holes above 3mm diameter.
> If you drill many very large holes the IB/E is a better choice, it is
> mains powered, but also more expensive.
>
> I initially bought the IB/E for PCB work, but soon got tired of taking
> it out of the stand to use for other tasks and got a cheap 12V
> micromot to leave in the stand and drill PCBs with.
>
> Generally Proxxon makes quiet tools with precise ground steel collets,
> while dremel makes less precise, louder but more powerful tools.
> For PCB drilling Proxxon is the better choice.
>
> I don't have the stand, I made my own.
>
> ST
>
> On Mon, Jul 18, 2011 at 9:31 AM, Kamal Shankar
> <kbshankar2000@... <mailto:kbshankar2000%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
> > How important is the RPM of the drill we use on a PCB?
> >
> >
> >
> > What would the difference be between a 1750 RPM vs a 10k RPM drill
> regarding drilling on a PCB? (I always thought higher RPM -> lower
> torque to drill a hole, but I read higher RPM is better?)
> >
> > There is a dremel I have been using for sometime using HSS bits that
> I have used on my FR2 boards.
> >
> > Now that I am going to migrate to a thinner FR-4 substrate, I am
> looking forward to buying a good minidrill that also has a stand
> (since I will be using carbide bits)
> >
> > Does anyone have feedback on these:
> >
> > $44 Proxxon 28512 12-Volt Micromot 50 EF Rotary Tool
> >
> >
> http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28512-12-Volt-Micromot-Rotary/dp/B000S5KO3K/ref=acc_glance_hi_ai_ps_t_5
> >
> >
> > $59 Proxxon 28606 MICROMOT Drill Stand MB 140/ S
> >
> >
> http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28606-MICROMOT-Drill-Stand/dp/B000209ZAE/ref=pd_cp_hi_4
> >
> >
> > They don't seem to make these in the US (they supposedly make them
> under a different name "Micro-Mark", but I am not sure if they are the
> same quality)
> >
> > The price looks like $120 incl. shipping which is a good price for a
> brand new precision "drill press" don't you think?
> >
> > If you have any better tools to suggest, I would be glad to know
> about them!
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-07-18 by bebx2000
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...> wrote:
>
> Can you provide a picture of your stand?
>
> Jeff
>
> On 7/18/2011 12:13 PM, Stefan Trethan wrote:
> >
> > The 12V Proxxon will be fine to drill PCBs, but it will begin to
> > struggle for holes above 3mm diameter.
> > If you drill many very large holes the IB/E is a better choice, it is
> > mains powered, but also more expensive.
> >
> > I initially bought the IB/E for PCB work, but soon got tired of taking
> > it out of the stand to use for other tasks and got a cheap 12V
> > micromot to leave in the stand and drill PCBs with.
> >
> > Generally Proxxon makes quiet tools with precise ground steel collets,
> > while dremel makes less precise, louder but more powerful tools.
> > For PCB drilling Proxxon is the better choice.
> >
> > I don't have the stand, I made my own.
> >
> > ST
> >
> > On Mon, Jul 18, 2011 at 9:31 AM, Kamal Shankar
> > <kbshankar2000@... <mailto:kbshankar2000%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
> > > How important is the RPM of the drill we use on a PCB?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > What would the difference be between a 1750 RPM vs a 10k RPM drill
> > regarding drilling on a PCB? (I always thought higher RPM -> lower
> > torque to drill a hole, but I read higher RPM is better?)
> > >
> > > There is a dremel I have been using for sometime using HSS bits that
> > I have used on my FR2 boards.
> > >
> > > Now that I am going to migrate to a thinner FR-4 substrate, I am
> > looking forward to buying a good minidrill that also has a stand
> > (since I will be using carbide bits)
> > >
> > > Does anyone have feedback on these:
> > >
> > > $44 Proxxon 28512 12-Volt Micromot 50 EF Rotary Tool
> > >
> > >
> > http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28512-12-Volt-Micromot-Rotary/dp/B000S5KO3K/ref=acc_glance_hi_ai_ps_t_5
> > >
> > >
> > > $59 Proxxon 28606 MICROMOT Drill Stand MB 140/ S
> > >
> > >
> > http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28606-MICROMOT-Drill-Stand/dp/B000209ZAE/ref=pd_cp_hi_4
> > >
> > >
> > > They don't seem to make these in the US (they supposedly make them
> > under a different name "Micro-Mark", but I am not sure if they are the
> > same quality)
> > >
> > > The price looks like $120 incl. shipping which is a good price for a
> > brand new precision "drill press" don't you think?
> > >
> > > If you have any better tools to suggest, I would be glad to know
> > about them!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> > Photos:
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
2011-07-18 by Kamal Shankar
>________________________________
>From: Peter Loron <peterl@...>
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 2:19 AM
>Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Looking for feedback on (Proxxon) drill and press stand for DIY PCB
>
>
>
>I dont have any specific feedback about those items except that I've heard good things about Proxxon in general.
>
>Also, for carbide you want something with minimal runout and high RPMs. Faster the better.
>
>-Pete
2011-07-18 by designer_craig
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Kamal Shankar <kbshankar2000@...> wrote:
>
> How important is the RPM of the drill we use on a PCB?
>
>
>
> What would the difference be between a 1750 RPM vs a 10k RPM drill regarding drilling on a PCB? (I always thought higher RPM -> lower torque to drill a hole, but I read higher RPM is better?)
>
> There is a dremel I have been using for sometime using HSS bits that I have used on my FR2 boards.
>
> Now that I am going to migrate to a thinner FR-4 substrate, I am looking forward to buying a good minidrill that also has a stand (since I will be using carbide bits)
>
> Does anyone have feedback on these:
>
> $44 Proxxon 28512 12-Volt Micromot 50 EF Rotary Tool
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28512-12-Volt-Micromot-Rotary/dp/B000S5KO3K/ref=acc_glance_hi_ai_ps_t_5
>
>
> $59 Proxxon 28606 MICROMOT Drill Stand MB 140/ S
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28606-MICROMOT-Drill-Stand/dp/B000209ZAE/ref=pd_cp_hi_4
>
>
> They don't seem to make these in the US (they supposedly make them under a different name "Micro-Mark", but I am not sure if they are the same quality)
>
> The price looks like $120 incl. shipping which is a good price for a brand new precision "drill press" don't you think?
>
> If you have any better tools to suggest, I would be glad to know about them!
>