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Hydrogen peroxide mixing

Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-05 by Randy S.

I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.

I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.

Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
it might not be the case .. though it is the same
chemical in this case. 

Randy - N2CUA

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-05 by Randy S.

Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
I went to the beauty supply place ..
Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and molarity.
ok .. found his email .. JROD  .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)

Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more chemistry .
Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..

Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
and after his laughing .. replies .. lol

Randy - N2CUA


 



________________________________
From: Randy S. <rj3819@...>
To: Homebrew_PCB <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

 
I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.

I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.

Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
it might not be the case .. though it is the same
chemical in this case. 

Randy - N2CUA







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-06 by Harvey White

On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:54:37 -0800 (PST), you wrote:

Stuff they sell in beauty shops is designed to be nice to your scalp,
so has (most likely) extra ingredients, so you now will have long
silky flexible PC boards that shine as if this was your normal PC
board color.

I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....

Harvey


>Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
>I went to the beauty supply place ..
>Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
>AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
>Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
>Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
>I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
>OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and molarity.
>ok .. found his email .. JROD  .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)
>
>Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more chemistry .
>Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..
>
>Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
>and after his laughing .. replies .. lol
>
>Randy - N2CUA
>
>

>
>
>
>________________________________
>From: Randy S. <rj3819@...>
>To: Homebrew_PCB <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>

>I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
>they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.
>
>I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.
>
>Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
>and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
>you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
>it might not be the case .. though it is the same
>chemical in this case. 
>
>Randy - N2CUA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-06 by Roland F. Harriston

For the life of me............I can't figure out why this guy wants to
go "rouge"
on this etch compound!

The "soup" gets edgy and not very safe when you go beyond what is required.
But........to each his own....................wear eye and skin protection.

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.


Jim Tonne wrote:

>
>
> > I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
>
> What is its percentage? 3%?
> He was looking at 10, 20 and 30%.
>
> - JimT
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-06 by Randy S.

The beauty shop was mentioned on a website
but a fellow that uses stronger peroxide then the 3%.
I guess its not just me ..  ..

Funny reply though ..

Randy




________________________________
From: Harvey White <madyn@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 7:40:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

 
On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:54:37 -0800 (PST), you wrote:

Stuff they sell in beauty shops is designed to be nice to your scalp,
so has (most likely) extra ingredients, so you now will have long
silky flexible PC boards that shine as if this was your normal PC
board color.

I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....

Harvey

>Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
>I went to the beauty supply place ..
>Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
>AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
>Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
>Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
>I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
>OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and molarity.
>ok .. found his email .. JROD  .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)
>
>Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more chemistry .
>Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..
>
>Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
>and after his laughing .. replies .. lol
>
>Randy - N2CUA
>
>

>
>
>
>________________________________
>From: Randy S. <rj3819@...>
>To: Homebrew_PCB <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>

>I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
>they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.
>
>I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.
>
>Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
>and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
>you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
>it might not be the case .. though it is the same
>chemical in this case. 
>
>Randy - N2CUA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-06 by Randy S.

Thats ... BY a fellow .....
Getting tired ..




________________________________
From: Randy S. <rj3819@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 10:14:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

 
The beauty shop was mentioned on a website
but a fellow that uses stronger peroxide then the 3%.
I guess its not just me ..  ..

Funny reply though ..

Randy

________________________________
From: Harvey White <madyn@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 7:40:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

 
On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:54:37 -0800 (PST), you wrote:

Stuff they sell in beauty shops is designed to be nice to your scalp,
so has (most likely) extra ingredients, so you now will have long
silky flexible PC boards that shine as if this was your normal PC
board color.

I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....

Harvey

>Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
>I went to the beauty supply place ..
>Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
>AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
>Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
>Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
>I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
>OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and molarity.
>ok .. found his email .. JROD  .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)
>
>Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more chemistry .
>Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..
>
>Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
>and after his laughing .. replies .. lol
>
>Randy - N2CUA
>
>

>
>
>
>________________________________
>From: Randy S. <rj3819@...>
>To: Homebrew_PCB <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>

>I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
>they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.
>
>I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.
>
>Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
>and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
>you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
>it might not be the case .. though it is the same
>chemical in this case. 
>
>Randy - N2CUA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-06 by Harvey White

On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 20:06:08 -0500, you wrote:

>
>
>> I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
>
>What is its percentage? 3%?

3%

Doesn't seem to have additives.

Harvey

>He was looking at 10, 20 and 30%.
>
>- JimT
>
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-06 by Jim

I buy and use 27% hydrogen peroxide sold at the pool supply store ...
It seems some people don't like green hair caused by chlorine that most
people
put in their pools. The people that I have questioned about using 27%
H2O2 in
their pool say it is better than the chlorine.
One gallon of 27% H2O2 costs $19
I save my used etch (it is dark green) and add about 7 milliliters of
27% H2O2
to 300 ml of used etch to etch a board.
Jim KI6MZ


On 3/5/2011 4:40 PM, Harvey White wrote:
> On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:54:37 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>
> Stuff they sell in beauty shops is designed to be nice to your scalp,
> so has (most likely) extra ingredients, so you now will have long
> silky flexible PC boards that shine as if this was your normal PC
> board color.
>
> I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
>
> Harvey
>
>
>> Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
>> I went to the beauty supply place ..
>> Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
>> AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
>> Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
>> Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
>> I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
>> OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and molarity.
>> ok .. found his email .. JROD .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)
>>
>> Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more chemistry .
>> Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..
>>
>> Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
>> and after his laughing .. replies .. lol
>>
>> Randy - N2CUA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Randy S.<rj3819@...>
>> To: Homebrew_PCB<homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
>> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>>
>>
>> I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
>> they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.
>>
>> I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.
>>
>> Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
>> and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
>> you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
>> it might not be the case .. though it is the same
>> chemical in this case.
>>
>> Randy - N2CUA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-06 by Randy S.

Thanks Jim ..
Glad I'm not the only one. Though I havent tried yet.
What ratio of that 27% peroxide to hydrochloric acid?

Randy




________________________________
From: Jim <jhutch17@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, March 6, 2011 1:25:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing


I buy and use 27% hydrogen peroxide sold at the pool supply store ...
It seems some people don't like green hair caused by chlorine that most
people
put in their pools. The people that I have questioned about using 27%
H2O2 in
their pool say it is better than the chlorine.
One gallon of 27% H2O2 costs $19
I save my used etch (it is dark green) and add about 7 milliliters of
27% H2O2
to 300 ml of used etch to etch a board.
Jim KI6MZ

On 3/5/2011 4:40 PM, Harvey White wrote:
> On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:54:37 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>
> Stuff they sell in beauty shops is designed to be nice to your scalp,
> so has (most likely) extra ingredients, so you now will have long
> silky flexible PC boards that shine as if this was your normal PC
> board color.
>
> I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
>
> Harvey
>
>
>> Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
>> I went to the beauty supply place ..
>> Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
>> AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
>> Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
>> Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
>> I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
>> OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and molarity.
>> ok .. found his email .. JROD .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)
>>
>> Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more chemistry .
>> Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..
>>
>> Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
>> and after his laughing .. replies .. lol
>>
>> Randy - N2CUA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Randy S.<rj3819@...>
>> To: Homebrew_PCB<homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
>> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>>
>>
>> I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
>> they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.
>>
>> I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.
>>
>> Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
>> and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
>> you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
>> it might not be the case .. though it is the same
>> chemical in this case.
>>
>> Randy - N2CUA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-06 by Roland F. Harriston

I think you have things a little screwed up.
I think that you (if you actually do) purchase muriatic acid, which is
actually
about 27% (30 Baume) hydrochloric acid from your
pool supply store, or local building supply or super market, and you
most likely purchase hydrogen PEROXIDE
(about 2 or 3 %) from your local drug/variety store.

Wow! this thread gets more silly as it progresses.

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
***********************


Jim wrote:

>
>
> I buy and use 27% hydrogen peroxide sold at the pool supply store ...
> It seems some people don't like green hair caused by chlorine that most
> people
> put in their pools. The people that I have questioned about using 27%
> H2O2 in
> their pool say it is better than the chlorine.
> One gallon of 27% H2O2 costs $19
> I save my used etch (it is dark green) and add about 7 milliliters of
> 27% H2O2
> to 300 ml of used etch to etch a board.
> Jim KI6MZ
>
> On 3/5/2011 4:40 PM, Harvey White wrote:
> > On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:54:37 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
> >
> > Stuff they sell in beauty shops is designed to be nice to your scalp,
> > so has (most likely) extra ingredients, so you now will have long
> > silky flexible PC boards that shine as if this was your normal PC
> > board color.
> >
> > I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
> >
> > Harvey
> >
> >
> >> Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
> >> I went to the beauty supply place ..
> >> Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
> >> AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
> >> Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
> >> Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
> >> I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
> >> OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and molarity.
> >> ok .. found his email .. JROD .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)
> >>
> >> Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more
> chemistry .
> >> Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..
> >>
> >> Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
> >> and after his laughing .. replies .. lol
> >>
> >> Randy - N2CUA
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Randy S.<rj3819@... <mailto:rj3819%40yahoo.com>>
> >> To: Homebrew_PCB<homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:homebrew_pcbs%40yahoogroups.com>>
> >> Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
> >> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
> >>
> >>
> >> I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
> >> they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.
> >>
> >> I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.
> >>
> >> Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
> >> and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
> >> you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
> >> it might not be the case .. though it is the same
> >> chemical in this case.
> >>
> >> Randy - N2CUA
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------------
> >>
> >> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> >> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-06 by Stefan Trethan

No, pool supply stores also sell hydrogen peroxyde and 27% seems to be
what I remember as well.
But it was more expensive thant the 30% stuff from the chemicals shop.

ST

On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 7:52 AM, Roland F. Harriston <rolohar@...> wrote:
> I think you have things a little screwed up.
> I think that you (if you actually do) purchase muriatic acid, which is
> actually
> about 27% (30 Baume) hydrochloric acid  from your
> pool supply store, or local building supply or super market, and you
> most likely purchase hydrogen PEROXIDE
> (about 2 or 3 %) from your local drug/variety store.
>
> Wow!  this thread gets more silly as it progresses.
>
> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
> ***********************
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-06 by Roland F. Harriston

Stefan Trethan:

You are most likely correct in stating that hydrogen peroxide is
available in some pool supply stores,
although shocking the pool with chlorine seems to be the most popular
treatment around here..

I get everything I need from my local Safeway supermarket. The stuff is
cheap there.

The readily available 3% peroxide does such a good job (for me, at
least) that I can't
imagine anyone wanting to put up with the toxic fumes and possible eye
or skin damage
that the stronger compound would present. I sometimes heat the soup up
a bit for a
faster etch, and this increases the caution in using the compound, let
alone the possiblity
of toxic vapor attacking other items in my humble lab.

Besides, peroxide has a very short shelf life. It turns to just plain
water in a relatively
short time. Thus a quart of the stuff at the supermarket for about l
dollar should be
fine for the casual PCB cooker.

But, I'm a rather strange guy. I try to adhere to the adage: KISS.

Again, I ask..........why are we discussing this ancient topic?

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
********************


Stefan Trethan wrote:

>
>
> No, pool supply stores also sell hydrogen peroxyde and 27% seems to be
> what I remember as well.
> But it was more expensive thant the 30% stuff from the chemicals shop.
>
> ST
>
> On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 7:52 AM, Roland F. Harriston
> <rolohar@... <mailto:rolohar%40comcast.net>> wrote:
> > I think you have things a little screwed up.
> > I think that you (if you actually do) purchase muriatic acid, which is
> > actually
> > about 27% (30 Baume) hydrochloric acid from your
> > pool supply store, or local building supply or super market, and you
> > most likely purchase hydrogen PEROXIDE
> > (about 2 or 3 %) from your local drug/variety store.
> >
> > Wow! this thread gets more silly as it progresses.
> >
> > Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
> > ***********************
> >
> >
>
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-06 by Boman33

It is a basic problems with news groups and list: A lot of good info is
provided but over time it gets buried in countless other good and bad
messages. It is very difficult for a new member or anyone to find the good
info.



There ought to be a way to have a Wiki linked to the group so basic
procedures and standard techniques and questions would be easy to find.

Bertho



From: Roland F. Harriston Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2011 17:24
Again, I ask..........why are we discussing this ancient topic?

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
********************





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-06 by Jim

Hi Randy
I used the usual ratio of 3% H2O2 (2 parts) to 31% HCL (1 part) for the
initial etch mix. I saved the used etch solutrion in a glass jar and and
when the jar was full, I would take about 300 ml of used etch and 7 ml
of H2O2 27% ... I used the 27% to reactivate the used etch because using
the 3% stuff would add too much WATER and dilute the etch. ... a 4
square inch PCB etches in 3 minutes with vigorous agitation.
Jim KI6MZ

On 3/5/2011 10:43 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> Thanks Jim ..
> Glad I'm not the only one. Though I havent tried yet.
> What ratio of that 27% peroxide to hydrochloric acid?
>
> Randy
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Jim<jhutch17@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sun, March 6, 2011 1:25:15 AM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>
>
> I buy and use 27% hydrogen peroxide sold at the pool supply store ...
> It seems some people don't like green hair caused by chlorine that most
> people
> put in their pools. The people that I have questioned about using 27%
> H2O2 in
> their pool say it is better than the chlorine.
> One gallon of 27% H2O2 costs $19
> I save my used etch (it is dark green) and add about 7 milliliters of
> 27% H2O2
> to 300 ml of used etch to etch a board.
> Jim KI6MZ
>
> On 3/5/2011 4:40 PM, Harvey White wrote:
>> On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:54:37 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>>
>> Stuff they sell in beauty shops is designed to be nice to your scalp,
>> so has (most likely) extra ingredients, so you now will have long
>> silky flexible PC boards that shine as if this was your normal PC
>> board color.
>>
>> I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
>>
>> Harvey
>>
>>
>>> Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
>>> I went to the beauty supply place ..
>>> Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
>>> AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
>>> Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
>>> Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
>>> I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
>>> OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and molarity.
>>> ok .. found his email .. JROD .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)
>>>
>>> Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more chemistry .
>>> Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..
>>>
>>> Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
>>> and after his laughing .. replies .. lol
>>>
>>> Randy - N2CUA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: Randy S.<rj3819@...>
>>> To: Homebrew_PCB<homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
>>> Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
>>> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>>>
>>>
>>> I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
>>> they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.
>>>
>>> I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.
>>>
>>> Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
>>> and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
>>> you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
>>> it might not be the case .. though it is the same
>>> chemical in this case.
>>>
>>> Randy - N2CUA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------
>>>
>>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-06 by Jim

Roland ... you seem to have difficulty reading an e-mail as written !!!
Jim KI6MZ

On 3/5/2011 10:52 PM, Roland F. Harriston wrote:
> I think you have things a little screwed up.
> I think that you (if you actually do) purchase muriatic acid, which is
> actually
> about 27% (30 Baume) hydrochloric acid from your
> pool supply store, or local building supply or super market, and you
> most likely purchase hydrogen PEROXIDE
> (about 2 or 3 %) from your local drug/variety store.
>
> Wow! this thread gets more silly as it progresses.
>
> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
> ***********************
>
>
> Jim wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> I buy and use 27% hydrogen peroxide sold at the pool supply store ...
>> It seems some people don't like green hair caused by chlorine that most
>> people
>> put in their pools. The people that I have questioned about using 27%
>> H2O2 in
>> their pool say it is better than the chlorine.
>> One gallon of 27% H2O2 costs $19
>> I save my used etch (it is dark green) and add about 7 milliliters of
>> 27% H2O2
>> to 300 ml of used etch to etch a board.
>> Jim KI6MZ
>>
>> On 3/5/2011 4:40 PM, Harvey White wrote:
>>> On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:54:37 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>>>
>>> Stuff they sell in beauty shops is designed to be nice to your scalp,
>>> so has (most likely) extra ingredients, so you now will have long
>>> silky flexible PC boards that shine as if this was your normal PC
>>> board color.
>>>
>>> I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
>>>
>>> Harvey
>>>
>>>
>>>> Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
>>>> I went to the beauty supply place ..
>>>> Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
>>>> AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
>>>> Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
>>>> Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
>>>> I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
>>>> OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and molarity.
>>>> ok .. found his email .. JROD .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)
>>>>
>>>> Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more
>> chemistry .
>>>> Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..
>>>>
>>>> Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
>>>> and after his laughing .. replies .. lol
>>>>
>>>> Randy - N2CUA
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ________________________________
>>>> From: Randy S.<rj3819@...<mailto:rj3819%40yahoo.com>>
>>>> To: Homebrew_PCB<homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com
>> <mailto:homebrew_pcbs%40yahoogroups.com>>
>>>> Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
>>>> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
>>>> they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.
>>>>
>>>> I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.
>>>>
>>>> Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
>>>> and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
>>>> you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
>>>> it might not be the case .. though it is the same
>>>> chemical in this case.
>>>>
>>>> Randy - N2CUA
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
>> Photos:
>>>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------
>>>
>>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
>> Photos:
>>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-06 by Roland F. Harriston

Boman:

If you have very, very basic computer skills, you can do a Google search
and get more information
on this subject than you will ever need. And.....you don't tie up
valuable bandwidth on this forum
with subjects that have gone over ad-infinitum

It seems to me, like some people are sitting, all alone, and thinking of
a way
to strike up a conversation. So they log onto a discussion group and
rehatch a old, jaded, tired subject, just to have something to talk about.

Independent Study anyone???

As I have said many times: there is a whole lot of good information that
gets passed on this forum by some really knowledgeable people.
But there is also a lot of "kaka" that gets shoveled around.

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
********************

Boman33 wrote:

>
>
> It is a basic problems with news groups and list: A lot of good info is
> provided but over time it gets buried in countless other good and bad
> messages. It is very difficult for a new member or anyone to find the good
> info.
>
> There ought to be a way to have a Wiki linked to the group so basic
> procedures and standard techniques and questions would be easy to find.
>
> Bertho
>
> From: Roland F. Harriston Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2011 17:24
> Again, I ask..........why are we discussing this ancient topic?
>
> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
> ********************
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-06 by Roland F. Harriston

Jim:

Your are probably correct.
It's just that when you keep reading the same thing over, and over, and
over, and over again,
you tend to "fog over" and yearn to log onto this forum and get
enlightened on some new
material.

But, I guess I'm just an optimist.

There is a cure for the problem you brought up concerning my posts to
this forum:

Just don't read my posts..........hit the delete key immediately upon
seeing my name.
Perhaps we can do this by mutual agreement??

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
*********************

Jim wrote:

>
>
>
> Roland ... you seem to have difficulty reading an e-mail as written !!!
> Jim KI6MZ
>
> On 3/5/2011 10:52 PM, Roland F. Harriston wrote:
> > I think you have things a little screwed up.
> > I think that you (if you actually do) purchase muriatic acid, which is
> > actually
> > about 27% (30 Baume) hydrochloric acid from your
> > pool supply store, or local building supply or super market, and you
> > most likely purchase hydrogen PEROXIDE
> > (about 2 or 3 %) from your local drug/variety store.
> >
> > Wow! this thread gets more silly as it progresses.
> >
> > Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
> > ***********************
> >
> >
> > Jim wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> I buy and use 27% hydrogen peroxide sold at the pool supply store ...
> >> It seems some people don't like green hair caused by chlorine that most
> >> people
> >> put in their pools. The people that I have questioned about using 27%
> >> H2O2 in
> >> their pool say it is better than the chlorine.
> >> One gallon of 27% H2O2 costs $19
> >> I save my used etch (it is dark green) and add about 7 milliliters of
> >> 27% H2O2
> >> to 300 ml of used etch to etch a board.
> >> Jim KI6MZ
> >>
> >> On 3/5/2011 4:40 PM, Harvey White wrote:
> >>> On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:54:37 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Stuff they sell in beauty shops is designed to be nice to your scalp,
> >>> so has (most likely) extra ingredients, so you now will have long
> >>> silky flexible PC boards that shine as if this was your normal PC
> >>> board color.
> >>>
> >>> I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
> >>>
> >>> Harvey
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
> >>>> I went to the beauty supply place ..
> >>>> Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
> >>>> AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
> >>>> Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
> >>>> Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
> >>>> I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
> >>>> OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and
> molarity.
> >>>> ok .. found his email .. JROD .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)
> >>>>
> >>>> Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more
> >> chemistry .
> >>>> Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..
> >>>>
> >>>> Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
> >>>> and after his laughing .. replies .. lol
> >>>>
> >>>> Randy - N2CUA
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> ________________________________
> >>>> From: Randy S.<rj3819@...
> <mailto:rj3819%40yahoo.com><mailto:rj3819%40yahoo.com>>
> >>>> To: Homebrew_PCB<homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:homebrew_pcbs%40yahoogroups.com>
> >> <mailto:homebrew_pcbs%40yahoogroups.com>>
> >>>> Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
> >>>> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
> >>>> they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.
> >>>>
> >>>> I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.
> >>>>
> >>>> Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
> >>>> and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
> >>>> you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
> >>>> it might not be the case .. though it is the same
> >>>> chemical in this case.
> >>>>
> >>>> Randy - N2CUA
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> ------------------------------------
> >>>>
> >>>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> >> Photos:
> >>>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> ------------------------------------
> >>>
> >>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> >> Photos:
> >>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-07 by Randy S.

ok .. I was wondering about the 27% being used only for reactivate
for that very reason .. so .. hows the reaction when you put the 27% into
the solution to reactivate .. I assume you put it in fairly slowly ??
Thanks for the info .. I have taken a break from the etching process
until I can be outside with the higher percentage peroxide..

Working on modifying my laminator ..
Thats going well .. if I monitor the temp and manually adjust ..
( thermal switch is bypassed ) it is working great with the
press n peel and also the glossy laser jet paper ..

Randy




________________________________
From: Jim <jhutch17@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, March 6, 2011 6:39:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing


Hi Randy
I used the usual ratio of 3% H2O2 (2 parts) to 31% HCL (1 part) for the
initial etch mix. I saved the used etch solutrion in a glass jar and and
when the jar was full, I would take about 300 ml of used etch and 7 ml
of H2O2 27% ... I used the 27% to reactivate the used etch because using
the 3% stuff would add too much WATER and dilute the etch. ... a 4
square inch PCB etches in 3 minutes with vigorous agitation.
Jim KI6MZ

On 3/5/2011 10:43 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> Thanks Jim ..
> Glad I'm not the only one. Though I havent tried yet.
> What ratio of that 27% peroxide to hydrochloric acid?
>
> Randy
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Jim<jhutch17@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sun, March 6, 2011 1:25:15 AM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>
>
> I buy and use 27% hydrogen peroxide sold at the pool supply store ...
> It seems some people don't like green hair caused by chlorine that most
> people
> put in their pools. The people that I have questioned about using 27%
> H2O2 in
> their pool say it is better than the chlorine.
> One gallon of 27% H2O2 costs $19
> I save my used etch (it is dark green) and add about 7 milliliters of
> 27% H2O2
> to 300 ml of used etch to etch a board.
> Jim KI6MZ
>
> On 3/5/2011 4:40 PM, Harvey White wrote:
>> On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 15:54:37 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>>
>> Stuff they sell in beauty shops is designed to be nice to your scalp,
>> so has (most likely) extra ingredients, so you now will have long
>> silky flexible PC boards that shine as if this was your normal PC
>> board color.
>>
>> I just buy the cheap stuff at the drugstore....
>>
>> Harvey
>>
>>
>>> Well heck .. this one is all blow outta the water.
>>> I went to the beauty supply place ..
>>> Theirs is 10, 20 and 30 VOL .. dangit ..
>>> AND .. to top that off it has other ingredients ..
>>> Best I could find was hydrogen peroxide , water , phosphuric acid.
>>> Though thinking back on the older days of REAL Coke Cola ..
>>> I wonder if the phosphuric acid / H2O2 mix by itself would etch ?
>>> OK .. where is that fellow .. that was talking chemistry and molarity.
>>> ok .. found his email .. JROD .. Hope you pipe in here .. :)
>>>
>>> Cant figure it out myself .. I did try .. need to learn more chemistry .
>>> Dont know if phosphuric acid is above copper on a redox table ..
>>>
>>> Oh well .. on to more studying .. and hope that JROD sees this
>>> and after his laughing .. replies .. lol
>>>
>>> Randy - N2CUA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: Randy S.<rj3819@...>
>>> To: Homebrew_PCB<homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
>>> Sent: Sat, March 5, 2011 4:47:21 PM
>>> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>>>
>>>
>>> I checked with the beauty shop in town ..
>>> they have 10 , 20 , 30 % peroxide.
>>>
>>> I can get the 10 .. I have several bottles of 3%.
>>>
>>> Can I mix equal amounts of say, 10% and 3%
>>> and end up with , 6.5% ? after starting those
>>> you tube video lectures on chemistry, I guess
>>> it might not be the case .. though it is the same
>>> chemical in this case.
>>>
>>> Randy - N2CUA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------
>>>
>>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-07 by Randy S.

Did someone fart ?





________________________________
From: Roland F. Harriston <rolohar@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, March 6, 2011 6:51:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Hydrogen peroxide mixing


Boman:

If you have very, very basic computer skills, you can do a Google search
and get more information
on this subject than you will ever need. And.....you don't tie up
valuable bandwidth on this forum
with subjects that have gone over ad-infinitum

It seems to me, like some people are sitting, all alone, and thinking of
a way
to strike up a conversation. So they log onto a discussion group and
rehatch a old, jaded, tired subject, just to have something to talk about.

Independent Study anyone???

As I have said many times: there is a whole lot of good information that
gets passed on this forum by some really knowledgeable people.
But there is also a lot of "kaka" that gets shoveled around.

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
********************

Boman33 wrote:

>
>
> It is a basic problems with news groups and list: A lot of good info is
> provided but over time it gets buried in countless other good and bad
> messages. It is very difficult for a new member or anyone to find the good
> info.
>
> There ought to be a way to have a Wiki linked to the group so basic
> procedures and standard techniques and questions would be easy to find.
>
> Bertho
>
> From: Roland F. Harriston Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2011 17:24
> Again, I ask..........why are we discussing this ancient topic?
>
> Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
> ********************
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-07 by James Newton

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote:
>
> It is a basic problems with news groups and list: A lot of good info is
> provided but over time it gets buried in countless other good and bad
> messages. It is very difficult for a new member or anyone to find the good
> info.
>
>
>
> There ought to be a way to have a Wiki linked to the group so basic
> procedures and standard techniques and questions would be easy to find.
>
> Bertho
>

http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcbs.htm

http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcbetch.htm

And so on...

Use the little form at the bottom to post anything you think is missing from a page.... You can claim the page and edit it if you want to become a page editor, or I will edit it as time allows.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-07 by Roland F. Harriston

James Newton:
Whenever some really good information comes up on this and other forums,
I quickly do a printscreen, and put the page(s) in a three ring binder.
So then, when the garbage responses start to proliferate the thread,
I've already gotten the good stuff out.

Rather academic, I must admit, but I don't have to keep beating a
dead horse by going over the same stuff and boring the hell out of
the rest of the group.

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
*******************
James Newton wrote:

>
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote:
> >
> > It is a basic problems with news groups and list: A lot of good info is
> > provided but over time it gets buried in countless other good and bad
> > messages. It is very difficult for a new member or anyone to find
> the good
> > info.
> >
> >
> >
> > There ought to be a way to have a Wiki linked to the group so basic
> > procedures and standard techniques and questions would be easy to find.
> >
> > Bertho
> >
>
>
> <http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcbs.htm>
>
> Recent Activity:
>
> * New Members
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/members;_ylc=X3oDMTJma2oycjA3BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzQ1MDUzNjEEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDgzMjkxBHNlYwN2dGwEc2xrA3ZtYnJzBHN0aW1lAzEyOTk1MjE3MTI-?o=6>
> 17
> * New Photos
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-07 by Boman33

Thanks James,

Yes, that is something like that I had in mind. If Newbies could be
redirected for the basic information it would help them a lot.

Thanks for all your work.

Bertho



From James Newton Sent: Monday, March 07, 2011 13:15



--- Previously "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote:
> It is a basic problems with news groups and list: A lot of good info is
> provided but over time it gets buried in countless other good and bad
> messages. It is very difficult for a new member or anyone to find the good
> info. There ought to be a way to have a Wiki linked to the group so basic
> procedures and standard techniques and questions would be easy to find.
> Bertho
>

http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcbs.htm

http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcbetch.htm

And so on...

Use the little form at the bottom to post anything you think is missing from
a page.... You can claim the page and edit it if you want to become a page
editor, or I will edit it as time allows.

_



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-07 by Randy S.

Maybe the groups should be renamed
to Advanced_Homebrew_PCBs





________________________________
From: Boman33 <boman33@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, March 7, 2011 1:46:25 PM
Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing


Thanks James,

Yes, that is something like that I had in mind. If Newbies could be
redirected for the basic information it would help them a lot.

Thanks for all your work.

Bertho

From James Newton Sent: Monday, March 07, 2011 13:15

--- Previously "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote:
> It is a basic problems with news groups and list: A lot of good info is
> provided but over time it gets buried in countless other good and bad
> messages. It is very difficult for a new member or anyone to find the good
> info. There ought to be a way to have a Wiki linked to the group so basic
> procedures and standard techniques and questions would be easy to find.
> Bertho
>

http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcbs.htm

http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcbetch.htm

And so on...

Use the little form at the bottom to post anything you think is missing from
a page.... You can claim the page and edit it if you want to become a page
editor, or I will edit it as time allows.

_

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-07 by Wayne Topa

On 03/07/2011 02:25 PM, Randy S. wrote:
>
>
> Maybe the groups should be renamed
> to Advanced_Homebrew_PCBs
>

Anyone joining this group should refer to the group archives where a
wealth of knowledge already exists. For those of us that have been the
group for years know, the recent questions have been asked, and answered
many times before.

If a new member is not willing to do some research on their own, before
asking the group for help, I myself just blacklist ( ie dump as spam)
that member.

-- Give a man a fish, feed him for a day
Teach a man to fish, feed him for life.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-07 by Roland F. Harriston

Wayne:

Amen Brother!

I would hazard a guess that the IQ of the majority of the people on this
forum
is quite above normal. Most of the members have at least some college
exposure, and/ or tech school. Not a requirement to participate, but
displaying one's intellect makes for a higher level of discourse, and
provides all of us with more enjoyment.

So, there is no reason why most members cannot do a little
independent research and go back into the archives and find out
if their inquiry has be dealt with before.

In the case of "PCB Etch Soups".........this is one of the
first areas discussed at length when this forum first
came on line.

I'm not trying to be a prick, but I am trying to
promote prudence.....something that this august
group should vastly manifest.

Roland F. Harriston, P.D.
***********************

Wayne Topa wrote:

>
>
> On 03/07/2011 02:25 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> >
> >
> > Maybe the groups should be renamed
> > to Advanced_Homebrew_PCBs
> >
>
> Anyone joining this group should refer to the group archives where a
> wealth of knowledge already exists. For those of us that have been the
> group for years know, the recent questions have been asked, and answered
> many times before.
>
> If a new member is not willing to do some research on their own, before
> asking the group for help, I myself just blacklist ( ie dump as spam)
> that member.
>
> -- Give a man a fish, feed him for a day
> Teach a man to fish, feed him for life.
>
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-09 by AlienRelics

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Wayne Topa <linuxtwo@...> wrote:
>
> On 03/07/2011 02:25 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> >
> >
> > Maybe the groups should be renamed
> > to Advanced_Homebrew_PCBs
> >
>
> Anyone joining this group should refer to the group archives where a
> wealth of knowledge already exists. For those of us that have been the
> group for years know, the recent questions have been asked, and answered
> many times before.
>
> If a new member is not willing to do some research on their own, before
> asking the group for help, I myself just blacklist ( ie dump as spam)
> that member.
>
> -- Give a man a fish, feed him for a day
> Teach a man to fish, feed him for life.

So... did you mean:

"Give a man a fish, feed him for a day
Treat a man with scorn for asking me about lures, then blacklist him."

Are you saying that you are marking list messages as spam when you don't like the question? So you are why my Yahoogroups keep ending up in the spam folder.

This list is for newbies, too. Often the biggest obstacle to finding information is not knowing the correct words to search for. If a question bugs you, I suggest you just delete it.

I looked into moving this over to a forum on my webserver. It might have made it easier to split up subjects and make FAQs, but it was met with mighty resistance. Are you willing to write a FAQ, or just gripe about it?

Steve Greenfield AE7HD
your friendly (sometimes grumpy) neighborhood moderator

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-09 by Jim Tonne

Steve:

I am a "lurker" on this list and am following this
peroxide and HCl with great interest.

I keep looking for a straightforward answer to
the what to use, in what strengths, and in what
proportions.

About the time I think I have an answer then
someone comes along and complains about
the subject. Fact of the matter is the subject
seems to have more than one answer, for
reasons I still have not understood.

Instead of complaining, folks should simply
tell what they use (this includes percentage
strength) and why.

That will wrap up the inquiries and the Delete
button will see less use.

- Jim W4ENE

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-09 by Wayne Topa

On 03/09/2011 12:04 AM, AlienRelics wrote:
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, Wayne Topa <linuxtwo@...> wrote:
> >
> > On 03/07/2011 02:25 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Maybe the groups should be renamed
> > > to Advanced_Homebrew_PCBs
> > >
> >
> > Anyone joining this group should refer to the group archives where a
> > wealth of knowledge already exists. For those of us that have been the
> > group for years know, the recent questions have been asked, and answered
> > many times before.
> >
> > If a new member is not willing to do some research on their own, before
> > asking the group for help, I myself just blacklist ( ie dump as spam)
> > that member.
> >
> > -- Give a man a fish, feed him for a day
> > Teach a man to fish, feed him for life.
>
> So... did you mean:
>
> "Give a man a fish, feed him for a day
> Treat a man with scorn for asking me about lures, then blacklist him."
>
> Are you saying that you are marking list messages as spam when you don't
> like the question? So you are why my Yahoogroups keep ending up in the
> spam folder.
>

Negative. I don't report ANY of this groups mail as SPAM. I Blacklist
Locally not Globally.

I have set up a filter to put unwanted mail, from MANY different
Groups/Lists, into my TRASH folder. That way I don't have to
move/delete them myself.

> This list is for newbies, too. Often the biggest obstacle to finding
> information is not knowing the correct words to search for. If a
> question bugs you, I suggest you just delete it.

That is what I do now. My use of the term "Spam" was in error.

>
> I looked into moving this over to a forum on my webserver. It might have
> made it easier to split up subjects and make FAQs, but it was met with
> mighty resistance. Are you willing to write a FAQ, or just gripe about it?

I did not mean for my post to be a Gripe. It was intended to inform a
newbie that the archives have the answer to many of his questions. If
that was wrong, I apologize.

No I do not have the time to spend on researching the archives to come
up with an FAQ. I spent my first 3 months in this group doing just
that. I did not find that effort to be wasted and I learned enough to
limit my questions to items not found in the archives. I have not found
the need to ask any question, here, in a few years now. I just follow
this Group out of habit because I find it interesting.

Wayne

WA1BBB

Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-09 by RJ

Seem to me that the "conclusion" was more or less that even though its ok to use the higher percentage peroxide, why do that and take the risk if its not needed and 3% works " ok" ..
I personally thing a 10% mix would be fine as well ..
Hence the mixing topic.

However, if you want to keep using your existing solution by reactivating it, Then the higher percentage was better as it didnt "water down" the solution you were using.

Sooo 3% to start, 30% ish to reactivate ..
That was the bottom line I got from it.
Which is NOT in the archives that I could find.

And I also did talk to the moderator and in short even though
he agrees that looking in the archives is preferred and makes sense,
that sometimes "newbies" arent sure what terms to use for the search
as they are not that familiar with the whole process, resulting in not getting all the info they need. He didnt otherwise seem to think it was an issue, except to a select few... and I dont think anyone has an abundance of time to read every thread in there.

Just my H O ..

Randy - N2CUA




--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Tonne" <tonne@...> wrote:
>
>
> Steve:
>
> I am a "lurker" on this list and am following this
> peroxide and HCl with great interest.
>
> I keep looking for a straightforward answer to
> the what to use, in what strengths, and in what
> proportions.
>
> About the time I think I have an answer then
> someone comes along and complains about
> the subject. Fact of the matter is the subject
> seems to have more than one answer, for
> reasons I still have not understood.
>
> Instead of complaining, folks should simply
> tell what they use (this includes percentage
> strength) and why.
>
> That will wrap up the inquiries and the Delete
> button will see less use.
>
> - Jim W4ENE
>

Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-10 by Ben L

> > I am a "lurker" on this list and am following this
> > peroxide and HCl with great interest.
> >
> > I keep looking for a straightforward answer to
> > the what to use, in what strengths, and in what
> > proportions.
> >
> > About the time I think I have an answer then
> > someone comes along and complains about
> > the subject. Fact of the matter is the subject
> > seems to have more than one answer, for
> > reasons I still have not understood.
>

As for want to use. Hydrochloric Acid sold as Pool and Concrete Cleaner and Drug Store 3% Hydrogen Peroxide.

I believe that the Mix is 1 part Hydrochloric Acid to 2 part Hydrogen Peroxide. This should get you started. If you are to regenerate it using Hydrogen Peroxide then you might want to use higher % so you don't water it down too much as the 3% is mostly water. I regenerate with air pumped into the tank, this takes awhile. As the tank level goes down I add some 3% Hydrogen and Hydrochloric Acid.

Look for Adam Seychell paper in the files section on it if you really want to get into the details of this and the real way to maintain it.
His paper is the real method if you want to maintain it correctly.

The list is for people to learn by asking questions, and the ones on the list that have been around and have the experience should be willing to answer the questions when they feel that they know the answer to it. but if you don't want to answer a question move on to the next message. Pass over ones that the subject is not of interest to you. Deleting a message takes less time than writing a message of complaint.

Sometimes you might find that you learn something by answering someone questions because it makes you think.


Ben

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-03-10 by Erik Knise

On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 8:14 PM, Ben L <bhleavi@...> wrote:
>
>> > I am a "lurker" on this list and am following this
>> > peroxide and HCl with great interest.
>> >
>> > I keep looking for a straightforward answer to
>> > the what to use, in what strengths, and in what
>> > proportions.
>> >
>> > About the time I think I have an answer then
>> > someone comes along and complains about
>> > the subject.   Fact of the matter is the subject
>> > seems to have more than one answer, for
>> > reasons I still have not understood.
>>
>
> As for want to use.  Hydrochloric Acid sold as Pool and Concrete Cleaner and Drug Store 3% Hydrogen Peroxide.
>
> I believe that the Mix is 1 part Hydrochloric Acid to 2 part Hydrogen Peroxide.  This should get you started.   If you are to regenerate it using Hydrogen Peroxide then you might want to use higher % so you don't water it down too much as the 3% is mostly water.   I regenerate with air pumped into the tank, this takes awhile.  As the tank level goes down I add some 3% Hydrogen and Hydrochloric Acid.
>
> Look for Adam Seychell paper in the files section on it if you really want to get into the details of this and the real way to maintain it.
> His paper is the real method if you want to maintain it correctly.
>
> The list is for people to learn by asking questions, and the ones on the list that have been around and have the experience should be willing to answer the questions when they feel that they know the answer to it.  but if you don't want to answer a question move on to the next message.  Pass over ones that the subject is not of interest to you.  Deleting a message takes less time than writing a message of complaint.
>
> Sometimes you might find that you learn something by answering someone questions because it makes you think.
>
>
> Ben
>
(I have been writing this all day a little bit at a time while I was at work.)

Okay, first a gripe about this thread. Completely agree with Ben in
that I think it's great new people are signing up and asking
questions. I've been subscribed here for a long time also so I have
seen plenty of redundancy too but we are here to help new people get
into the hobby of making their own boards not to chastise them.

Doing chemistry by volume is just a bad idea. Weight/mass ratio's are
much easier to work it.

When etching a board with Cupric Chloride it really doesn't matter
what strength we use as long as we have the correct proportions of
H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) and HCL (hydrochloric acid). We only need
enough volume to cover our board. A stronger solution would be easier
to store as regnerating with weak H2O2 and HCL would increase the
volume greatly. Starting off with weak H2O2 and HCL should be
sufficent for most small runs.

This is how our reaction works:

First we are making Cupric Chloride (CuCl2):
Cu + H2O2 + 2HCl -> 2H2O + CuCl2

The Copper reacts with the CuCl2 from the previous reaction to form
Cuprous Chloride (CuCl):
Cu + CuCl2 -> 2CuCl

The Cuprous Chloride continues to react with the H2O2 and HCL to
continue the reaction.
CuCl + H2O2 + 2HCL -> 2H2O + 2CuCl2

It's a chain reaction and these reactions are all happening
simultaneously but each mole of HCl used dissolves 1 mole of copper.

H2O2 has a molecular mass of 34.0147 grams/mole and HCL is 36.46
grams/mole. With 100 grams of 3% H2O2 we would have 3 grams or 0.088
moles of H2O2 (3 grams divided by 34 grams/mole). We would need 0.176
moles of HCl for the reaction. That would be 0.176 moles x 36.5
grams/mole = 6.42 grams. With 27% HCl that would be 6.42 devided by
27% equals 23.78 grams of 27% HCl Solution. 23.78 grams of HCl per 100
grams of H2O2 would be a 1:4.2 ratio. This would of course would
change with different concentrations.

When regenerating our solution by adding more H2O2 and HCl we are
adding it to a solution of CuCl and water. The reaction above starts
with 114.374 grams of water and generates another 3.178 grams of water
so we have roughly 117.5mL of water when the reaction is complete.
This is why to regenerate the etchant it would be best to use more
concentrated chemicals so it doesn't get too diluted. If the reaction
doesn't use up all of the H2O2 and HCL the H2O2 will break down in the
light to H2O and O2 so regenerating with only H2O2 may work. Add H2O2
to the CuCL and water solution first. If the reaction starts there was
HCL left in the solution. When adding H2O2 causes no results it's time
to add proportionate amounts of both H2O2 and HCl to continue the
reaction.

***************
I've been wanting to do this for a while so I decided to write a
JavaScript calculator this evening to do the math so you guys can play
around with the concentration numbers. It can be found here along
with the complete write up:
http://www.totse2.com/easy-e/cupricchloride.html


All of that should be correct but please let me know if any of my
chemistry is wrong and I will update my page.
***************
--
Erik L. Knise
Seattle, WA

Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-07-06 by stan_katz

Erik,

I'm leaping into the world of Acid Cupric Etchant, as an outside "sport" during fair, warm weather. My intent is to create the regenerable version of this system, not the one-time use many in this group employ. I took note of your calculator. It is intriguing, but to a non-chemist its use is unclear. As a lay person, I would have thought the calculator would compute the optimum ratio of HCL/H202 upon entering their respective weights. However, from what I see, the user must calculate this ratio using your formulas, given above the calculator. That's ok with me, I just need to be clear that was your intent. So... the user is responsible for filling in 4 fields, one of which the user calculates on his own. The grams of copper computed field, does that represent the "starter copper" mentioned by Seychell, or the maximum copper to be held in solution after etching before rebalancing? Also, does this calculator apply to the case where CuCl(II) crystals are used for starting the solution?

Now to try your patience with a question about process control. In both the seminal paper on Acid Cupric Etchant (http://www.xertech.net/Tech/CuCl_ech.html), and Seychell, density can be measured in solution, real-time, with a hydrometer, but acid content has to be determined off-line, either by titration with ph indicator (bromophenol blue), or the Seychell "turbidity end point titration". My internet search seems to confirm that it is infeasable to use a ph meter in the process solution due to numerous factors. As a non-chemist, may I ask if an ORP (Oxidation Reduction Potential) meter would help here? I realize many in this group are young, with high cognitive ability, and can perform process control by eyeball alone, given enough experience with the broth. As a member of the senior contingent, my safest approach is analytical. However I would like to avoid the titration, if it could be replaced with some real-time process control measurement. If the ORP meter is silly, is there any other way to determine acid content in real-time?

Stan

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Erik Knise <elknise@...> wrote:
>
> On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 8:14 PM, Ben L <bhleavi@...> wrote:
> >
> >> > I am a "lurker" on this list and am following this
> >> > peroxide and HCl with great interest.
> >> >
> >> > I keep looking for a straightforward answer to
> >> > the what to use, in what strengths, and in what
> >> > proportions.
> >> >
> >> > About the time I think I have an answer then
> >> > someone comes along and complains about
> >> > the subject.   Fact of the matter is the subject
> >> > seems to have more than one answer, for
> >> > reasons I still have not understood.
> >>
> >
> > As for want to use.  Hydrochloric Acid sold as Pool and Concrete Cleaner and Drug Store 3% Hydrogen Peroxide.
> >
> > I believe that the Mix is 1 part Hydrochloric Acid to 2 part Hydrogen Peroxide.  This should get you started.   If you are to regenerate it using Hydrogen Peroxide then you might want to use higher % so you don't water it down too much as the 3% is mostly water.   I regenerate with air pumped into the tank, this takes awhile.  As the tank level goes down I add some 3% Hydrogen and Hydrochloric Acid.
> >
> > Look for Adam Seychell paper in the files section on it if you really want to get into the details of this and the real way to maintain it.
> > His paper is the real method if you want to maintain it correctly.
> >
> > The list is for people to learn by asking questions, and the ones on the list that have been around and have the experience should be willing to answer the questions when they feel that they know the answer to it.  but if you don't want to answer a question move on to the next message.  Pass over ones that the subject is not of interest to you.  Deleting a message takes less time than writing a message of complaint.
> >
> > Sometimes you might find that you learn something by answering someone questions because it makes you think.
> >
> >
> > Ben
> >
> (I have been writing this all day a little bit at a time while I was at work.)
>
> Okay, first a gripe about this thread. Completely agree with Ben in
> that I think it's great new people are signing up and asking
> questions. I've been subscribed here for a long time also so I have
> seen plenty of redundancy too but we are here to help new people get
> into the hobby of making their own boards not to chastise them.
>
> Doing chemistry by volume is just a bad idea. Weight/mass ratio's are
> much easier to work it.
>
> When etching a board with Cupric Chloride it really doesn't matter
> what strength we use as long as we have the correct proportions of
> H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) and HCL (hydrochloric acid). We only need
> enough volume to cover our board. A stronger solution would be easier
> to store as regnerating with weak H2O2 and HCL would increase the
> volume greatly. Starting off with weak H2O2 and HCL should be
> sufficent for most small runs.
>
> This is how our reaction works:
>
> First we are making Cupric Chloride (CuCl2):
> Cu + H2O2 + 2HCl -> 2H2O + CuCl2
>
> The Copper reacts with the CuCl2 from the previous reaction to form
> Cuprous Chloride (CuCl):
> Cu + CuCl2 -> 2CuCl
>
> The Cuprous Chloride continues to react with the H2O2 and HCL to
> continue the reaction.
> CuCl + H2O2 + 2HCL -> 2H2O + 2CuCl2
>
> It's a chain reaction and these reactions are all happening
> simultaneously but each mole of HCl used dissolves 1 mole of copper.
>
> H2O2 has a molecular mass of 34.0147 grams/mole and HCL is 36.46
> grams/mole. With 100 grams of 3% H2O2 we would have 3 grams or 0.088
> moles of H2O2 (3 grams divided by 34 grams/mole). We would need 0.176
> moles of HCl for the reaction. That would be 0.176 moles x 36.5
> grams/mole = 6.42 grams. With 27% HCl that would be 6.42 devided by
> 27% equals 23.78 grams of 27% HCl Solution. 23.78 grams of HCl per 100
> grams of H2O2 would be a 1:4.2 ratio. This would of course would
> change with different concentrations.
>
> When regenerating our solution by adding more H2O2 and HCl we are
> adding it to a solution of CuCl and water. The reaction above starts
> with 114.374 grams of water and generates another 3.178 grams of water
> so we have roughly 117.5mL of water when the reaction is complete.
> This is why to regenerate the etchant it would be best to use more
> concentrated chemicals so it doesn't get too diluted. If the reaction
> doesn't use up all of the H2O2 and HCL the H2O2 will break down in the
> light to H2O and O2 so regenerating with only H2O2 may work. Add H2O2
> to the CuCL and water solution first. If the reaction starts there was
> HCL left in the solution. When adding H2O2 causes no results it's time
> to add proportionate amounts of both H2O2 and HCl to continue the
> reaction.
>
> ***************
> I've been wanting to do this for a while so I decided to write a
> JavaScript calculator this evening to do the math so you guys can play
> around with the concentration numbers. It can be found here along
> with the complete write up:
> http://www.totse2.com/easy-e/cupricchloride.html
>
>
> All of that should be correct but please let me know if any of my
> chemistry is wrong and I will update my page.
> ***************
> --
> Erik L. Knise
> Seattle, WA
>

Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-07-06 by psykhon@yahoo.com

Stan:
A very dirty method to adjust acid level: you normally regenerate the solution with peroxide but, when the acid "depletes" and you keep adding peroxide, it will make a soft reaction and start bubling. In this point you should add more acid.
I know how dirt this method is but is effective and seems safe as long as you pour the peroxide softly each time.
I make large pcbs frequently and this works great every time

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "stan_katz" <stan_katz@...> wrote:
>
> Erik,
>
> I'm leaping into the world of Acid Cupric Etchant, as an outside "sport" during fair, warm weather. My intent is to create the regenerable version of this system, not the one-time use many in this group employ. I took note of your calculator. It is intriguing, but to a non-chemist its use is unclear. As a lay person, I would have thought the calculator would compute the optimum ratio of HCL/H202 upon entering their respective weights. However, from what I see, the user must calculate this ratio using your formulas, given above the calculator. That's ok with me, I just need to be clear that was your intent. So... the user is responsible for filling in 4 fields, one of which the user calculates on his own. The grams of copper computed field, does that represent the "starter copper" mentioned by Seychell, or the maximum copper to be held in solution after etching before rebalancing? Also, does this calculator apply to the case where CuCl(II) crystals are used for starting the solution?
>
> Now to try your patience with a question about process control. In both the seminal paper on Acid Cupric Etchant (http://www.xertech.net/Tech/CuCl_ech.html), and Seychell, density can be measured in solution, real-time, with a hydrometer, but acid content has to be determined off-line, either by titration with ph indicator (bromophenol blue), or the Seychell "turbidity end point titration". My internet search seems to confirm that it is infeasable to use a ph meter in the process solution due to numerous factors. As a non-chemist, may I ask if an ORP (Oxidation Reduction Potential) meter would help here? I realize many in this group are young, with high cognitive ability, and can perform process control by eyeball alone, given enough experience with the broth. As a member of the senior contingent, my safest approach is analytical. However I would like to avoid the titration, if it could be replaced with some real-time process control measurement. If the ORP meter is silly, is there any other way to determine acid content in real-time?
>
> Stan
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Erik Knise <elknise@> wrote:
> >
> > On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 8:14 PM, Ben L <bhleavi@> wrote:
> > >
> > >> > I am a "lurker" on this list and am following this
> > >> > peroxide and HCl with great interest.
> > >> >
> > >> > I keep looking for a straightforward answer to
> > >> > the what to use, in what strengths, and in what
> > >> > proportions.
> > >> >
> > >> > About the time I think I have an answer then
> > >> > someone comes along and complains about
> > >> > the subject.   Fact of the matter is the subject
> > >> > seems to have more than one answer, for
> > >> > reasons I still have not understood.
> > >>
> > >
> > > As for want to use.  Hydrochloric Acid sold as Pool and Concrete Cleaner and Drug Store 3% Hydrogen Peroxide.
> > >
> > > I believe that the Mix is 1 part Hydrochloric Acid to 2 part Hydrogen Peroxide.  This should get you started.   If you are to regenerate it using Hydrogen Peroxide then you might want to use higher % so you don't water it down too much as the 3% is mostly water.   I regenerate with air pumped into the tank, this takes awhile.  As the tank level goes down I add some 3% Hydrogen and Hydrochloric Acid.
> > >
> > > Look for Adam Seychell paper in the files section on it if you really want to get into the details of this and the real way to maintain it.
> > > His paper is the real method if you want to maintain it correctly.
> > >
> > > The list is for people to learn by asking questions, and the ones on the list that have been around and have the experience should be willing to answer the questions when they feel that they know the answer to it.  but if you don't want to answer a question move on to the next message.  Pass over ones that the subject is not of interest to you.  Deleting a message takes less time than writing a message of complaint.
> > >
> > > Sometimes you might find that you learn something by answering someone questions because it makes you think.
> > >
> > >
> > > Ben
> > >
> > (I have been writing this all day a little bit at a time while I was at work.)
> >
> > Okay, first a gripe about this thread. Completely agree with Ben in
> > that I think it's great new people are signing up and asking
> > questions. I've been subscribed here for a long time also so I have
> > seen plenty of redundancy too but we are here to help new people get
> > into the hobby of making their own boards not to chastise them.
> >
> > Doing chemistry by volume is just a bad idea. Weight/mass ratio's are
> > much easier to work it.
> >
> > When etching a board with Cupric Chloride it really doesn't matter
> > what strength we use as long as we have the correct proportions of
> > H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) and HCL (hydrochloric acid). We only need
> > enough volume to cover our board. A stronger solution would be easier
> > to store as regnerating with weak H2O2 and HCL would increase the
> > volume greatly. Starting off with weak H2O2 and HCL should be
> > sufficent for most small runs.
> >
> > This is how our reaction works:
> >
> > First we are making Cupric Chloride (CuCl2):
> > Cu + H2O2 + 2HCl -> 2H2O + CuCl2
> >
> > The Copper reacts with the CuCl2 from the previous reaction to form
> > Cuprous Chloride (CuCl):
> > Cu + CuCl2 -> 2CuCl
> >
> > The Cuprous Chloride continues to react with the H2O2 and HCL to
> > continue the reaction.
> > CuCl + H2O2 + 2HCL -> 2H2O + 2CuCl2
> >
> > It's a chain reaction and these reactions are all happening
> > simultaneously but each mole of HCl used dissolves 1 mole of copper.
> >
> > H2O2 has a molecular mass of 34.0147 grams/mole and HCL is 36.46
> > grams/mole. With 100 grams of 3% H2O2 we would have 3 grams or 0.088
> > moles of H2O2 (3 grams divided by 34 grams/mole). We would need 0.176
> > moles of HCl for the reaction. That would be 0.176 moles x 36.5
> > grams/mole = 6.42 grams. With 27% HCl that would be 6.42 devided by
> > 27% equals 23.78 grams of 27% HCl Solution. 23.78 grams of HCl per 100
> > grams of H2O2 would be a 1:4.2 ratio. This would of course would
> > change with different concentrations.
> >
> > When regenerating our solution by adding more H2O2 and HCl we are
> > adding it to a solution of CuCl and water. The reaction above starts
> > with 114.374 grams of water and generates another 3.178 grams of water
> > so we have roughly 117.5mL of water when the reaction is complete.
> > This is why to regenerate the etchant it would be best to use more
> > concentrated chemicals so it doesn't get too diluted. If the reaction
> > doesn't use up all of the H2O2 and HCL the H2O2 will break down in the
> > light to H2O and O2 so regenerating with only H2O2 may work. Add H2O2
> > to the CuCL and water solution first. If the reaction starts there was
> > HCL left in the solution. When adding H2O2 causes no results it's time
> > to add proportionate amounts of both H2O2 and HCl to continue the
> > reaction.
> >
> > ***************
> > I've been wanting to do this for a while so I decided to write a
> > JavaScript calculator this evening to do the math so you guys can play
> > around with the concentration numbers. It can be found here along
> > with the complete write up:
> > http://www.totse2.com/easy-e/cupricchloride.html
> >
> >
> > All of that should be correct but please let me know if any of my
> > chemistry is wrong and I will update my page.
> > ***************
> > --
> > Erik L. Knise
> > Seattle, WA
> >
>

Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-07-06 by stan_katz

Hmm, it seems you've come up with a real-time, online equivalent to the "turbidity end point titration".

I like it.

Thanks!

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, psykhon@... wrote:
>
>
> Stan:
> A very dirty method to adjust acid level: you normally regenerate the solution with peroxide but, when the acid "depletes" and you keep adding peroxide, it will make a soft reaction and start bubling. In this point you should add more acid.
> I know how dirt this method is but is effective and seems safe as long as you pour the peroxide softly each time.
> I make large pcbs frequently and this works great every time
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "stan_katz" <stan_katz@> wrote:
> >
> > Erik,
> >
> > I'm leaping into the world of Acid Cupric Etchant, as an outside "sport" during fair, warm weather. My intent is to create the regenerable version of this system, not the one-time use many in this group employ. I took note of your calculator. It is intriguing, but to a non-chemist its use is unclear. As a lay person, I would have thought the calculator would compute the optimum ratio of HCL/H202 upon entering their respective weights. However, from what I see, the user must calculate this ratio using your formulas, given above the calculator. That's ok with me, I just need to be clear that was your intent. So... the user is responsible for filling in 4 fields, one of which the user calculates on his own. The grams of copper computed field, does that represent the "starter copper" mentioned by Seychell, or the maximum copper to be held in solution after etching before rebalancing? Also, does this calculator apply to the case where CuCl(II) crystals are used for starting the solution?
> >
> > Now to try your patience with a question about process control. In both the seminal paper on Acid Cupric Etchant (http://www.xertech.net/Tech/CuCl_ech.html), and Seychell, density can be measured in solution, real-time, with a hydrometer, but acid content has to be determined off-line, either by titration with ph indicator (bromophenol blue), or the Seychell "turbidity end point titration". My internet search seems to confirm that it is infeasable to use a ph meter in the process solution due to numerous factors. As a non-chemist, may I ask if an ORP (Oxidation Reduction Potential) meter would help here? I realize many in this group are young, with high cognitive ability, and can perform process control by eyeball alone, given enough experience with the broth. As a member of the senior contingent, my safest approach is analytical. However I would like to avoid the titration, if it could be replaced with some real-time process control measurement. If the ORP meter is silly, is there any other way to determine acid content in real-time?
> >
> > Stan
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Erik Knise <elknise@> wrote:
> > >
> > > On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 8:14 PM, Ben L <bhleavi@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >> > I am a "lurker" on this list and am following this
> > > >> > peroxide and HCl with great interest.
> > > >> >
> > > >> > I keep looking for a straightforward answer to
> > > >> > the what to use, in what strengths, and in what
> > > >> > proportions.
> > > >> >
> > > >> > About the time I think I have an answer then
> > > >> > someone comes along and complains about
> > > >> > the subject.   Fact of the matter is the subject
> > > >> > seems to have more than one answer, for
> > > >> > reasons I still have not understood.
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > > As for want to use.  Hydrochloric Acid sold as Pool and Concrete Cleaner and Drug Store 3% Hydrogen Peroxide.
> > > >
> > > > I believe that the Mix is 1 part Hydrochloric Acid to 2 part Hydrogen Peroxide.  This should get you started.   If you are to regenerate it using Hydrogen Peroxide then you might want to use higher % so you don't water it down too much as the 3% is mostly water.   I regenerate with air pumped into the tank, this takes awhile.  As the tank level goes down I add some 3% Hydrogen and Hydrochloric Acid.
> > > >
> > > > Look for Adam Seychell paper in the files section on it if you really want to get into the details of this and the real way to maintain it.
> > > > His paper is the real method if you want to maintain it correctly.
> > > >
> > > > The list is for people to learn by asking questions, and the ones on the list that have been around and have the experience should be willing to answer the questions when they feel that they know the answer to it.  but if you don't want to answer a question move on to the next message.  Pass over ones that the subject is not of interest to you.  Deleting a message takes less time than writing a message of complaint.
> > > >
> > > > Sometimes you might find that you learn something by answering someone questions because it makes you think.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Ben
> > > >
> > > (I have been writing this all day a little bit at a time while I was at work.)
> > >
> > > Okay, first a gripe about this thread. Completely agree with Ben in
> > > that I think it's great new people are signing up and asking
> > > questions. I've been subscribed here for a long time also so I have
> > > seen plenty of redundancy too but we are here to help new people get
> > > into the hobby of making their own boards not to chastise them.
> > >
> > > Doing chemistry by volume is just a bad idea. Weight/mass ratio's are
> > > much easier to work it.
> > >
> > > When etching a board with Cupric Chloride it really doesn't matter
> > > what strength we use as long as we have the correct proportions of
> > > H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) and HCL (hydrochloric acid). We only need
> > > enough volume to cover our board. A stronger solution would be easier
> > > to store as regnerating with weak H2O2 and HCL would increase the
> > > volume greatly. Starting off with weak H2O2 and HCL should be
> > > sufficent for most small runs.
> > >
> > > This is how our reaction works:
> > >
> > > First we are making Cupric Chloride (CuCl2):
> > > Cu + H2O2 + 2HCl -> 2H2O + CuCl2
> > >
> > > The Copper reacts with the CuCl2 from the previous reaction to form
> > > Cuprous Chloride (CuCl):
> > > Cu + CuCl2 -> 2CuCl
> > >
> > > The Cuprous Chloride continues to react with the H2O2 and HCL to
> > > continue the reaction.
> > > CuCl + H2O2 + 2HCL -> 2H2O + 2CuCl2
> > >
> > > It's a chain reaction and these reactions are all happening
> > > simultaneously but each mole of HCl used dissolves 1 mole of copper.
> > >
> > > H2O2 has a molecular mass of 34.0147 grams/mole and HCL is 36.46
> > > grams/mole. With 100 grams of 3% H2O2 we would have 3 grams or 0.088
> > > moles of H2O2 (3 grams divided by 34 grams/mole). We would need 0.176
> > > moles of HCl for the reaction. That would be 0.176 moles x 36.5
> > > grams/mole = 6.42 grams. With 27% HCl that would be 6.42 devided by
> > > 27% equals 23.78 grams of 27% HCl Solution. 23.78 grams of HCl per 100
> > > grams of H2O2 would be a 1:4.2 ratio. This would of course would
> > > change with different concentrations.
> > >
> > > When regenerating our solution by adding more H2O2 and HCl we are
> > > adding it to a solution of CuCl and water. The reaction above starts
> > > with 114.374 grams of water and generates another 3.178 grams of water
> > > so we have roughly 117.5mL of water when the reaction is complete.
> > > This is why to regenerate the etchant it would be best to use more
> > > concentrated chemicals so it doesn't get too diluted. If the reaction
> > > doesn't use up all of the H2O2 and HCL the H2O2 will break down in the
> > > light to H2O and O2 so regenerating with only H2O2 may work. Add H2O2
> > > to the CuCL and water solution first. If the reaction starts there was
> > > HCL left in the solution. When adding H2O2 causes no results it's time
> > > to add proportionate amounts of both H2O2 and HCl to continue the
> > > reaction.
> > >
> > > ***************
> > > I've been wanting to do this for a while so I decided to write a
> > > JavaScript calculator this evening to do the math so you guys can play
> > > around with the concentration numbers. It can be found here along
> > > with the complete write up:
> > > http://www.totse2.com/easy-e/cupricchloride.html
> > >
> > >
> > > All of that should be correct but please let me know if any of my
> > > chemistry is wrong and I will update my page.
> > > ***************
> > > --
> > > Erik L. Knise
> > > Seattle, WA
> > >
> >
>

Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-07-11 by Darren

I just joined this group, and haven't read through the messages, but I thought I would throw my .02 cents in on this one.
As far as regenerating CuCl2 etchant, O3 works about as well as anything I've tried. Small tube style 03 generators aren't hard to make, assuming that one has any technical ability at all. The process goes faster if one uses O2 to feed the generator as opposed to air, but the method still works fine with regular air. A very small amount of HNO3 can be generated if the air used to feed the generator contains moisture, but HNO3 is a great oxidizer, and would only help the process in my opinion.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-07-11 by Kamal Shankar

Hi Darren,

I am finding it difficult to obtain > 3% H202 myself, and since the only purpose of H202 is to generate oxygen, I would very much like to know how to generate ozone instead, as I believe it's a much stronger oxodizing agent?

Also - I meant to ask everyone: is heating HCl + H202 or CuCl2 etchant useful the way it is in case of FeCl3 or is it simply a misconception?



>________________________________
>From: Darren <hillio888@...>
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Monday, July 11, 2011 11:29 AM
>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>
>

>I just joined this group, and haven't read through the messages, but I thought I would throw my .02 cents in on this one.
>As far as regenerating CuCl2 etchant, O3 works about as well as anything I've tried.  Small tube style 03 generators aren't hard to make, assuming that one has any technical ability at all.  The process goes faster if one uses O2 to feed the generator as opposed to air, but the method still works fine with regular air. A very small amount of HNO3 can be generated if the air used to feed the generator contains moisture, but HNO3 is a great oxidizer, and would only help the process in my opinion. 

Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-07-12 by psykhon@yahoo.com

I suspect that a lot of the O3 will go trough the solution and end in the room, how would you control this? as far as I know, o3 in excess can cause cancer. O3 "home" generators have a control and dont allow for 0.1ppm but I suspect this control should be disabled or it wont cause any effect on the cucl2 solution.
Im no chemist, this was just my 2 cents and really would like to find an effective and safe gas regeneretion method

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Darren" <hillio888@...> wrote:
>
> I just joined this group, and haven't read through the messages, but I thought I would throw my .02 cents in on this one.
> As far as regenerating CuCl2 etchant, O3 works about as well as anything I've tried. Small tube style 03 generators aren't hard to make, assuming that one has any technical ability at all. The process goes faster if one uses O2 to feed the generator as opposed to air, but the method still works fine with regular air. A very small amount of HNO3 can be generated if the air used to feed the generator contains moisture, but HNO3 is a great oxidizer, and would only help the process in my opinion.
>

Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-07-18 by Ben L

> I am finding it difficult to obtain > 3% H202 myself, and since the only purpose of H202 is to generate oxygen, I would very much like to know how to generate ozone instead, as I believe it's a much stronger oxodizing agent?
>
> Also - I meant to ask everyone: is heating HCl + H202 or CuCl2 etchant useful the way it is in case of FeCl3 or is it simply a misconception?
>

I normally use a air pump to pump air into the tank.

Try a Beauty Supply for stronger than 3%.


Ben

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-07-18 by Kamal Shankar

Thanks Ben.

I read somewhere that the best mix for H2O2 + HCl is:

"20% H2O2 at 35%
20% HCl at 32%
60% water to etch the copper. This needs to be done outside (vapors), the board is etched in 30s"

Would a beauty shop have 35% H2O2?

I also read that some people use a heater to warm up  HCl + H202 or CuCl2 etchant just like in case of FeCl3!

Does heating help?



>________________________________
>From: Ben L <bhleavi@...>
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 7:04 PM
>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing
>
>

>
>> I am finding it difficult to obtain > 3% H202 myself, and since the only purpose of H202 is to generate oxygen, I would very much like to know how to generate ozone instead, as I believe it's a much stronger oxodizing agent?
>>
>> Also - I meant to ask everyone: is heating HCl + H202 or CuCl2 etchant useful the way it is in case of FeCl3 or is it simply a misconception?
>>
>
>I normally use a air pump to pump air into the tank.
>
>Try a Beauty Supply for stronger than 3%.
>
>Ben_,___
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-07-18 by Norm

Don't know about the ratios, but I think the H2O2 is 35 VOLUME , which
is ~10%. Beauty shop suppliers will have 30 and 40 VOLUME, which
correspond to ~9% and ~12% H2O2. It's relatively inexpensive - a quart
cost me about $5.00 last time I bought some.

Norm
W6NIM

On 7/17/2011 8:07 PM, Kamal Shankar wrote:
>
> Thanks Ben.
>
> I read somewhere that the best mix for H2O2 + HCl is:
>
> "20% H2O2 at 35%
> 20% HCl at 32%
> 60% water to etch the copper. This needs to be done outside (vapors),
> the board is etched in 30s"
>
> Would a beauty shop have 35% H2O2?
>
> I also read that some people use a heater to warm up HCl + H202 or
> CuCl2 etchant just like in case of FeCl3!
>
> Does heating help?
>
> >________________________________
> >From: Ben L <bhleavi@... <mailto:bhleavi%40yahoo.com>>
> >To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> >Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 7:04 PM
> >Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> I am finding it difficult to obtain > 3% H202 myself, and since the
> only purpose of H202 is to generate oxygen, I would very much like to
> know how to generate ozone instead, as I believe it's a much stronger
> oxodizing agent?
> >>
> >> Also - I meant to ask everyone: is heating HCl + H202 or CuCl2
> etchant useful the way it is in case of FeCl3 or is it simply a
> misconception?
> >>
> >
> >I normally use a air pump to pump air into the tank.
> >
> >Try a Beauty Supply for stronger than 3%.
> >
> >Ben_,___
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Looking for feedback on (Proxxon) drill and press stand for DIY PCB

2011-07-18 by Kamal Shankar

How important is the RPM of the drill we use on a PCB?



What would the difference be between a 1750 RPM vs a 10k RPM drill regarding drilling on a PCB? (I always thought higher RPM -> lower torque to drill a hole, but I read higher RPM is better?)

There is a dremel I have been using for sometime using HSS bits that I have used on my FR2 boards.

Now that I am going to migrate to a thinner FR-4 substrate, I am looking forward to buying a good minidrill that also has a stand (since I will be using carbide bits)

Does anyone have feedback on these:

$44 Proxxon 28512 12-Volt Micromot 50 EF Rotary Tool

http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28512-12-Volt-Micromot-Rotary/dp/B000S5KO3K/ref=acc_glance_hi_ai_ps_t_5


$59 Proxxon 28606 MICROMOT Drill Stand MB 140/ S

http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28606-MICROMOT-Drill-Stand/dp/B000209ZAE/ref=pd_cp_hi_4


They don't seem to make these in the US (they supposedly make them under a different name "Micro-Mark", but I am not sure if they are the same quality)

The price looks like $120 incl. shipping which is a good price for a brand new precision "drill press" don't you think?

If you have any better tools to suggest, I would be glad to know about them!

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Looking for feedback on (Proxxon) drill and press stand for DIY PCB

2011-07-18 by Peter Loron

I dont have any specific feedback about those items except that I've heard good things about Proxxon in general.

Also, for carbide you want something with minimal runout and high RPMs. Faster the better.

-Pete

On Jul 18, 2011, at 12:31 AM, Kamal Shankar wrote:

> How important is the RPM of the drill we use on a PCB?
>
>
>
> What would the difference be between a 1750 RPM vs a 10k RPM drill regarding drilling on a PCB? (I always thought higher RPM -> lower torque to drill a hole, but I read higher RPM is better?)
>
> There is a dremel I have been using for sometime using HSS bits that I have used on my FR2 boards.
>
> Now that I am going to migrate to a thinner FR-4 substrate, I am looking forward to buying a good minidrill that also has a stand (since I will be using carbide bits)
>
> Does anyone have feedback on these:
>
> $44 Proxxon 28512 12-Volt Micromot 50 EF Rotary Tool
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28512-12-Volt-Micromot-Rotary/dp/B000S5KO3K/ref=acc_glance_hi_ai_ps_t_5
>
>
> $59 Proxxon 28606 MICROMOT Drill Stand MB 140/ S
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28606-MICROMOT-Drill-Stand/dp/B000209ZAE/ref=pd_cp_hi_4
>
>
> They don't seem to make these in the US (they supposedly make them under a different name "Micro-Mark", but I am not sure if they are the same quality)
>
> The price looks like $120 incl. shipping which is a good price for a brand new precision "drill press" don't you think?
>
> If you have any better tools to suggest, I would be glad to know about them!
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing

2011-07-18 by Mark Lerman

I think you can get 35% peroxide online at ebay and some other sites.
Apparently it is ingested for some health reasons (google food grade
peroxide). See
<http://cgi.ebay.com/35-Food-Grade-HYDROGEN-PEROXIDE-1-GALLON-Free-dropper-/270766223522?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f0aecb0a2>
for an ebay example. I use 40 Volume (12%) peroxide that I get from a
beauty supply place nearby.

Mark

At 01:58 AM 7/18/2011, you wrote:
>Don't know about the ratios, but I think the H2O2 is 35 VOLUME , which
>is ~10%. Beauty shop suppliers will have 30 and 40 VOLUME, which
>correspond to ~9% and ~12% H2O2. It's relatively inexpensive - a quart
>cost me about $5.00 last time I bought some.
>
>Norm
>W6NIM
>
>On 7/17/2011 8:07 PM, Kamal Shankar wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Ben.
> >
> > I read somewhere that the best mix for H2O2 + HCl is:
> >
> > "20% H2O2 at 35%
> > 20% HCl at 32%
> > 60% water to etch the copper. This needs to be done outside (vapors),
> > the board is etched in 30s"
> >
> > Would a beauty shop have 35% H2O2?
> >
> > I also read that some people use a heater to warm up HCl + H202 or
> > CuCl2 etchant just like in case of FeCl3!
> >
> > Does heating help?
> >
> > >________________________________
> > >From: Ben L <bhleavi@... <mailto:bhleavi%40yahoo.com>>
> > >To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > >Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 7:04 PM
> > >Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hydrogen peroxide mixing
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >> I am finding it difficult to obtain > 3% H202 myself, and since the
> > only purpose of H202 is to generate oxygen, I would very much like to
> > know how to generate ozone instead, as I believe it's a much stronger
> > oxodizing agent?
> > >>
> > >> Also - I meant to ask everyone: is heating HCl + H202 or CuCl2
> > etchant useful the way it is in case of FeCl3 or is it simply a
> > misconception?
> > >>
> > >
> > >I normally use a air pump to pump air into the tank.
> > >
> > >Try a Beauty Supply for stronger than 3%.
> > >
> > >Ben_,___
> > >
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Looking for feedback on (Proxxon) drill and press stand for DIY PCB

2011-07-18 by Stefan Trethan

The 12V Proxxon will be fine to drill PCBs, but it will begin to
struggle for holes above 3mm diameter.
If you drill many very large holes the IB/E is a better choice, it is
mains powered, but also more expensive.

I initially bought the IB/E for PCB work, but soon got tired of taking
it out of the stand to use for other tasks and got a cheap 12V
micromot to leave in the stand and drill PCBs with.

Generally Proxxon makes quiet tools with precise ground steel collets,
while dremel makes less precise, louder but more powerful tools.
For PCB drilling Proxxon is the better choice.

I don't have the stand, I made my own.

ST


On Mon, Jul 18, 2011 at 9:31 AM, Kamal Shankar <kbshankar2000@...> wrote:
> How important is the RPM of the drill we use on a PCB?
>
>
>
> What would the difference be between a 1750 RPM vs a 10k RPM drill regarding drilling on a PCB? (I always thought higher RPM -> lower torque to drill a hole, but I read higher RPM is better?)
>
> There is a dremel I have been using for sometime using HSS bits that I have used on my FR2 boards.
>
> Now that I am going to migrate to a thinner FR-4 substrate, I am looking forward to buying a good minidrill that also has a stand (since I will be using carbide bits)
>
> Does anyone have feedback on these:
>
> $44 Proxxon 28512 12-Volt Micromot 50 EF Rotary Tool
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28512-12-Volt-Micromot-Rotary/dp/B000S5KO3K/ref=acc_glance_hi_ai_ps_t_5
>
>
> $59 Proxxon 28606 MICROMOT Drill Stand MB 140/ S
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28606-MICROMOT-Drill-Stand/dp/B000209ZAE/ref=pd_cp_hi_4
>
>
> They don't seem to make these in the US (they supposedly make them under a different name "Micro-Mark", but I am not sure if they are the same quality)
>
> The price looks like $120 incl. shipping which is a good price for a brand new precision "drill press" don't you think?
>
> If you have any better tools to suggest, I would be glad to know about them!
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Looking for feedback on (Proxxon) drill and press stand for DIY PCB

2011-07-18 by Jeff Heiss

Can you provide a picture of your stand?

Jeff

On 7/18/2011 12:13 PM, Stefan Trethan wrote:
>
> The 12V Proxxon will be fine to drill PCBs, but it will begin to
> struggle for holes above 3mm diameter.
> If you drill many very large holes the IB/E is a better choice, it is
> mains powered, but also more expensive.
>
> I initially bought the IB/E for PCB work, but soon got tired of taking
> it out of the stand to use for other tasks and got a cheap 12V
> micromot to leave in the stand and drill PCBs with.
>
> Generally Proxxon makes quiet tools with precise ground steel collets,
> while dremel makes less precise, louder but more powerful tools.
> For PCB drilling Proxxon is the better choice.
>
> I don't have the stand, I made my own.
>
> ST
>
> On Mon, Jul 18, 2011 at 9:31 AM, Kamal Shankar
> <kbshankar2000@... <mailto:kbshankar2000%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
> > How important is the RPM of the drill we use on a PCB?
> >
> >
> >
> > What would the difference be between a 1750 RPM vs a 10k RPM drill
> regarding drilling on a PCB? (I always thought higher RPM -> lower
> torque to drill a hole, but I read higher RPM is better?)
> >
> > There is a dremel I have been using for sometime using HSS bits that
> I have used on my FR2 boards.
> >
> > Now that I am going to migrate to a thinner FR-4 substrate, I am
> looking forward to buying a good minidrill that also has a stand
> (since I will be using carbide bits)
> >
> > Does anyone have feedback on these:
> >
> > $44 Proxxon 28512 12-Volt Micromot 50 EF Rotary Tool
> >
> >
> http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28512-12-Volt-Micromot-Rotary/dp/B000S5KO3K/ref=acc_glance_hi_ai_ps_t_5
> >
> >
> > $59 Proxxon 28606 MICROMOT Drill Stand MB 140/ S
> >
> >
> http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28606-MICROMOT-Drill-Stand/dp/B000209ZAE/ref=pd_cp_hi_4
> >
> >
> > They don't seem to make these in the US (they supposedly make them
> under a different name "Micro-Mark", but I am not sure if they are the
> same quality)
> >
> > The price looks like $120 incl. shipping which is a good price for a
> brand new precision "drill press" don't you think?
> >
> > If you have any better tools to suggest, I would be glad to know
> about them!
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: Looking for feedback on (Proxxon) drill and press stand for DIY PCB

2011-07-18 by bebx2000

I own both and am very satisfied with them. The drill stand has tapped holes to mount the KT70 X-Y table.

Baxter

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...> wrote:
>
> Can you provide a picture of your stand?
>
> Jeff
>
> On 7/18/2011 12:13 PM, Stefan Trethan wrote:
> >
> > The 12V Proxxon will be fine to drill PCBs, but it will begin to
> > struggle for holes above 3mm diameter.
> > If you drill many very large holes the IB/E is a better choice, it is
> > mains powered, but also more expensive.
> >
> > I initially bought the IB/E for PCB work, but soon got tired of taking
> > it out of the stand to use for other tasks and got a cheap 12V
> > micromot to leave in the stand and drill PCBs with.
> >
> > Generally Proxxon makes quiet tools with precise ground steel collets,
> > while dremel makes less precise, louder but more powerful tools.
> > For PCB drilling Proxxon is the better choice.
> >
> > I don't have the stand, I made my own.
> >
> > ST
> >
> > On Mon, Jul 18, 2011 at 9:31 AM, Kamal Shankar
> > <kbshankar2000@... <mailto:kbshankar2000%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
> > > How important is the RPM of the drill we use on a PCB?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > What would the difference be between a 1750 RPM vs a 10k RPM drill
> > regarding drilling on a PCB? (I always thought higher RPM -> lower
> > torque to drill a hole, but I read higher RPM is better?)
> > >
> > > There is a dremel I have been using for sometime using HSS bits that
> > I have used on my FR2 boards.
> > >
> > > Now that I am going to migrate to a thinner FR-4 substrate, I am
> > looking forward to buying a good minidrill that also has a stand
> > (since I will be using carbide bits)
> > >
> > > Does anyone have feedback on these:
> > >
> > > $44 Proxxon 28512 12-Volt Micromot 50 EF Rotary Tool
> > >
> > >
> > http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28512-12-Volt-Micromot-Rotary/dp/B000S5KO3K/ref=acc_glance_hi_ai_ps_t_5
> > >
> > >
> > > $59 Proxxon 28606 MICROMOT Drill Stand MB 140/ S
> > >
> > >
> > http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28606-MICROMOT-Drill-Stand/dp/B000209ZAE/ref=pd_cp_hi_4
> > >
> > >
> > > They don't seem to make these in the US (they supposedly make them
> > under a different name "Micro-Mark", but I am not sure if they are the
> > same quality)
> > >
> > > The price looks like $120 incl. shipping which is a good price for a
> > brand new precision "drill press" don't you think?
> > >
> > > If you have any better tools to suggest, I would be glad to know
> > about them!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> > Photos:
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Looking for feedback on (Proxxon) drill and press stand for DIY PCB

2011-07-18 by Kamal Shankar

Hi Pete,

Why is Faster the better?


I am new to terms like "runout" and can't understand why RPMs are important - is there a good guide that I can read/buy that would explain these things well?



>________________________________
>From: Peter Loron <peterl@...>
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 2:19 AM
>Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Looking for feedback on (Proxxon) drill and press stand for DIY PCB
>
>

>I dont have any specific feedback about those items except that I've heard good things about Proxxon in general.
>
>Also, for carbide you want something with minimal runout and high RPMs. Faster the better.
>
>-Pete

Re: Looking for feedback on (Proxxon) drill and press stand for DIY PCB

2011-07-18 by designer_craig

You want as much RPM as you can get. But I found that if you are hand drilling its also important to find one that will stop quickly as it is much easier to locate the drill in the pad hole when the drill is not turning.

I have a little surplus 24V PM DC motor that is about 1" in dia and 1.5" long with a pin chuch coupled to the shaft. I run it about 40V and don't actually know the RPM. It fits real nice in the palm of my hand. Hooked up a foot switch that shorts the motor windings out when released so the back emf stops the motor in about a second.

Photo:
https://picasaweb.google.com/cschaffter/PCB_Stuff#5433062346975752258

Don't even think about carbide drills with a hand held drill they are just too brittle and will snap just looking at them cross-eyed. Just use HHS bits and keep a small sharpening stone handy.

To use carbide you need a nice stable sensitive drill press with a low runout spindle. Even better, a CNC setup.

Craig




--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Kamal Shankar <kbshankar2000@...> wrote:
>
> How important is the RPM of the drill we use on a PCB?
>
>
>
> What would the difference be between a 1750 RPM vs a 10k RPM drill regarding drilling on a PCB? (I always thought higher RPM -> lower torque to drill a hole, but I read higher RPM is better?)
>
> There is a dremel I have been using for sometime using HSS bits that I have used on my FR2 boards.
>
> Now that I am going to migrate to a thinner FR-4 substrate, I am looking forward to buying a good minidrill that also has a stand (since I will be using carbide bits)
>
> Does anyone have feedback on these:
>
> $44 Proxxon 28512 12-Volt Micromot 50 EF Rotary Tool
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28512-12-Volt-Micromot-Rotary/dp/B000S5KO3K/ref=acc_glance_hi_ai_ps_t_5
>
>
> $59 Proxxon 28606 MICROMOT Drill Stand MB 140/ S
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28606-MICROMOT-Drill-Stand/dp/B000209ZAE/ref=pd_cp_hi_4
>
>
> They don't seem to make these in the US (they supposedly make them under a different name "Micro-Mark", but I am not sure if they are the same quality)
>
> The price looks like $120 incl. shipping which is a good price for a brand new precision "drill press" don't you think?
>
> If you have any better tools to suggest, I would be glad to know about them!
>