Homebrew PCBs

I see that most people recommend to heat the etching solution to around 120 F.
And I see that most everybody seems to be using thermostat controlled aquarium heaters. Which appear to cut out at 90 F or so.

So how do people get up to 120F??

Hi,

If you can open it, try to set the thermostat a bit further than the outside
screw end run (it's a guess or trial-and-error adjust...). Or get ride of it
and use one of your own inside the glass tube controlled by external
electronics.

If ferric chloride, 90ºF is good enough. Not as fast as 120ºF, but WAY
FASTER than cold water temperature.
Don't know about CuCl temperature differences.

Nuno T.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Othello
> Sent: domingo, 6 de Fevereiro de 2011 14:10
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] aquarium heater question
> 
> I see that most people recommend to heat the etching solution 
> to around 120 F.
> And I see that most everybody seems to be using thermostat 
> controlled aquarium heaters. Which appear to cut out at 90 F or so.
> 
> So how do people get up to 120F??

On Sun, 06 Feb 2011 14:09:36 -0000, you wrote:

>I see that most people recommend to heat the etching solution to around 120 F.
>And I see that most everybody seems to be using thermostat controlled aquarium heaters. Which appear to cut out at 90 F or so.

There's an aquarium heater that has a dial on top, not a red knob. The
one with the red knob seems to be (very intelligently) limited in
temperature range.

The one with the little bar knob can be turned up to a "fish stew"
temperature by simply continuing to turn the knob.

Not a design I want for my fish tank, but perfect for my PC boards.

BTW: allow the heater to cool before  you rinse it off.

Harvey

>
>So how do people get up to 120F??
>
>
>
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Hi Othello,

Like Nuno said, you need to hack the heater. Here is a useful link how to hack it. The goal is to spread the bi-metal a bit wider. With a screwdriver, thermometer and some experimenting you will do the job fine. I've also hacked my heater which can reach 60 degrees Celsius. The important thing is to be very careful when you're pulling out the rubber sealing/top. The glass can be easily broken. Regards.

http://pcbheaven.com/exppages/Removing_the_built-in_thermostat_of_an_aquarium_heater/

> If you can open it, try to set the thermostat a bit further than the outside
> screw end run (it's a guess or trial-and-error adjust...). Or get ride of it
> and use one of your own inside the glass tube controlled by external
> electronics.
> 
> If ferric chloride, 90ºF is good enough. Not as fast as 120ºF, but WAY
> FASTER than cold water temperature.
> Don't know about CuCl temperature differences.


Yes normally you can set the heaters higher by removing the knob or stop.  

When I used Ferric Chloride found that it worked best heated.  I use CuCl now and do not heat it.

Ben

> BTW: allow the heater to cool before  you rinse it off.
> 

Don't operate the heaters without being submerged, they will over heat fast and break the glass. 


Ben