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2010-06-25 by Bob
Anyone know the difference between the 1701860 and 1701870 GBC laminators? What might be advantageous attributes? One is described Creative while the 1870 is described photo quality. The 1860 has been mentioned as being usable by others, is this also the case with the 1870? Thanks, Bob R.
2010-06-25 by sailingto
Looking at the specs on both, 3.0 amps, 350 watts, both are single heat level - I don't think there is any difference at all. Just difference in "marketing" writeup. Read the specs on one here: http://tinyurl.com/29anbps compare specs on other here: http://tinyurl.com/2b4nr8y Sure sound the same to me. Ken H> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob" <rrrydman@...> wrote:
> > Anyone know the difference between the 1701860 and 1701870 GBC laminators? What might be advantageous attributes? One is described Creative while the 1870 is described photo quality. The 1860 has been mentioned as being usable by others, is this also the case with the 1870? > > Thanks, > > Bob R. >
2010-06-25 by rrrydman@aol.com
Oh Great both are the same laminators ... look at the description of each ... they are both 1870 .. I asked for ebay clarification. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2010-06-26 by rrrydman@aol.com
Sailing to points up the fact that both laminators are 1870 ... not 1860. Look at the descriptions and inquire like I did. Then, my question still remains "Is there a difference between 1860 and 1870" Sailingto may still be correct but I cannot tell from these two listings ... they are for the same laminator 1870. Bob R. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2010-06-26 by rrrydman@aol.com
Create and preserve important documents and images with this GBC 1701870 9-inch Creative Laminator. Order today! Listed as 1860! From viveatech verified by ebay email Question remains. Bob R. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2010-06-26 by Roger Blair
FYI. The 1701987 is dual heat, which is the one advertized by Pulsar. Roger
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of rrrydman@... Sent: Friday, June 25, 2010 05:05 To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: GBC laminators Sailing to points up the fact that both laminators are 1870 ... not 1860. Look at the descriptions and inquire like I did. Then, my question still remains "Is there a difference between 1860 and 1870" Sailingto may still be correct but I cannot tell from these two listings ... they are for the same laminator 1870. Bob R. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2010-06-26 by sailingto
Yep, the 1701987 is the dual heat - MyBinding (Ebay storefront) says that model in "no longer available" and only offers the single heat. For TT the low heat setting is never used anyway so the single heat should be a mute point. I don't know if both laminators are 1870 or 1860 - I just don't see any difference in them. My understanding is that MyBinding listed on Ebay is the distributor/importer - The are "Made in China". I have the 1701987 model, but a buddy has one of the single heat version and it seems to be close to the same. The circuit inside is different. The two links I posted are for the two different models - OR they are for me. http://tinyurl.com/29anbps is for Item number: 260612493226 (1860) http://tinyurl.com/2b4nr8y is for Item number: 160358035559 (1870) If you read the discriptions you will think they are for the same laminator. Ken H> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Blair" <Roger.Blair@...> wrote:
> > FYI. > > The 1701987 is dual heat, which is the one advertized by Pulsar. > > Roger > > > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of rrrydman@... > Sent: Friday, June 25, 2010 05:05 > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: GBC laminators > > > Sailing to points up the fact that both laminators are 1870 ... not 1860. > > Look at the descriptions and inquire like I did. Then, my question still remains "Is there a difference between 1860 and 1870" > > Sailingto may still be correct but I cannot tell from these two listings ... they are for the same laminator 1870. > > Bob R. >
2010-06-26 by Roger Blair
I also have a couple of "Creative" models (1701871) I got on ebay for $9.95 ea, for spare parts. They are single heat units of the same basic design, and do not get as hot as the "Personal" model (1701987 from Pulsar) set on high heat. I have tested these with some higher temp snap switches, without suitable improvement so far. I don't think the housing can take very much more heat without softening and warping. If I ever find a good configuration (without going to an external controller), I'll post the results. Roger
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of sailingto Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2010 04:48 To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: GBC laminators Yep, the 1701987 is the dual heat - MyBinding (Ebay storefront) says that model in "no longer available" and only offers the single heat. For TT the low heat setting is never used anyway so the single heat should be a mute point. I don't know if both laminators are 1870 or 1860 - I just don't see any difference in them. My understanding is that MyBinding listed on Ebay is the distributor/importer - The are "Made in China". I have the 1701987 model, but a buddy has one of the single heat version and it seems to be close to the same. The circuit inside is different. The two links I posted are for the two different models - OR they are for me. http://tinyurl.com/29anbps is for Item number: 260612493226 (1860) http://tinyurl.com/2b4nr8y is for Item number: 160358035559 (1870) If you read the discriptions you will think they are for the same laminator. Ken H> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> , "Roger Blair" <Roger.Blair@...> wrote: > > FYI. > > The 1701987 is dual heat, which is the one advertized by Pulsar. > > Roger > > > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of rrrydman@... > Sent: Friday, June 25, 2010 05:05 > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: GBC laminators > > > Sailing to points up the fact that both laminators are 1870 ... not 1860. > > Look at the descriptions and inquire like I did. Then, my question still remains "Is there a difference between 1860 and 1870" > > Sailingto may still be correct but I cannot tell from these two listings ... they are for the same laminator 1870. > > Bob R. > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2010-06-26 by sailingto
Interesting comment Roger - I have the two heat model #1701987 from Mybinding (Ebay seller) that "seems" to be the same as the one from Pulsar - can you confirm the Pulsar is the 1701987 model? I also have one of the single heat versions currently sold by Mybinding - I've not even taken it from box. I purchased it as a spare thinking it was the same as the 2 heat model 1987 I had. Ooops - I should have checked closer before purchasing. I do think it will handle 300F heat, and I do use an external controller that I homebrewed using an ATmega168 chip. I do TT around 310ºF and am very pleased with the results. One of these days I do need to drag the new laminator out and test it. Ken H>
> I have tested these with some higher temp snap switches, without suitable improvement so far. I don't think the housing can take > very much more heat without softening and warping. If I ever find a good configuration (without going to an external controller), > I'll post the results. >
2010-06-27 by Andrew
As far as I can see, the difference between 1870 and 1860 is 10. :) Don't you just love helpful comments like these??? --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob" <rrrydman@...> wrote:
> > Anyone know the difference between the 1701860 and 1701870 GBC laminators? What might be advantageous attributes? One is described Creative while the 1870 is described photo quality. The 1860 has been mentioned as being usable by others, is this also the case with the 1870? > > Thanks, > > Bob R. >
2010-06-27 by rrrydman@aol.com
Hi Ken and group,
This is just a clarification of my previous emails concerning the model types 1701860 and 1701870 for GBC laminators..
This ebay listing is in fact for the model 1701870 ....
http://tinyurl.com/29anbps is for Item number: 260612493226 (1860)
Please see the email I received from the seller (below).
Hi,
Sorry its my mistake for the wrong title, you will receive 1701870 model as description.
Thank you
Selena
- vivaetech
The listings then, are for the same model 1701870, the item description for the 1701860 is incorrect .. it shows 1701870 in the written description.
In any case, I have purchased an 1701860 from a different listing. I would be interested in learning more about the tempurature settings modifications, are they available at the HomebrewPCB site?
Thanks,
Bob R.
The two links I posted are for the two different models - OR they are for me.
http://tinyurl.com/29anbps is for Item number: 260612493226 (1860)
http://tinyurl.com/2b4nr8y is for Item number: 160358035559 (1870)
If you read the discriptions you will think they are for the same laminator.
Ken H>
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Blair" <Roger.Blair@...> wrote:
>
> FYI.
>
> The 1701987 is dual heat, which is the one advertized by Pulsar.
>
> Roger
>
>
>
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of rrrydman@...
> Sent: Friday, June 25, 2010 05:05
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: GBC laminators
>
>
> Sailing to points up the fact that both laminators are 1870 ... not 1860.
>
> Look at the descriptions and inquire like I did. Then, my question still remains "Is there a difference between 1860 and 1870"
>
> Sailingto may still be correct but I cannot tell from these two listings ... they are for the same laminator 1870.
>
> Bob R.
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]2010-06-27 by Roger Blair
Yes, I bought my 1701987 from Pulsar some time ago. Im curious about how you measured the ~310°F). Is it coming from your controller display reading, as measured with the controllers sensor, from an external IR sensor, or some other way? BTW, I found that at around 275°F, when tilting the unit back about 45° to enable feeding small coupons in, it allows the heat to escape through the feed slot, causing serious warping of the housing (I just trimmed it back as necessary). I think we are operating at very near the max temp these housings can withstand. Have you experienced any warpage from overheating the housing? Roger
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of sailingto Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2010 04:11 To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: GBC laminators Interesting comment Roger - I have the two heat model #1701987 from Mybinding (Ebay seller) that "seems" to be the same as the one from Pulsar - can you confirm the Pulsar is the 1701987 model? I also have one of the single heat versions currently sold by Mybinding - I've not even taken it from box. I purchased it as a spare thinking it was the same as the 2 heat model 1987 I had. Ooops - I should have checked closer before purchasing. I do think it will handle 300F heat, and I do use an external controller that I homebrewed using an ATmega168 chip. I do TT around 310ºF and am very pleased with the results. One of these days I do need to drag the new laminator out and test it. Ken H> > I have tested these with some higher temp snap switches, without suitable improvement so far. I don't think the housing can take > very much more heat without softening and warping. If I ever find a good configuration (without going to an external controller), > I'll post the results. > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2010-06-27 by sailingto
The way I get the temperature of the laminator is with a sensor clamped to the same spot on the aluminum frame as the original thermal switch - I do NOT think this reflects the "true" temp of rollers, but is a close as I can come. My first attempt as temperature control was using a type "J" thermocouple clamped in place of the thermal switch, and I would watch the temperature as it heated up to around 400F (I had a Brother printer that required high temp), then run my PCB thru a few times to do the TT. One day I forgot, and when I came back the temp was up over 500F - maybe close to 600F? (as measured by thermocouple) - and the plastic frame holding the rollers inside had melted.... THAT is when I decided I had to get a "real" temperature controller rigged up. I have heated to 425F several times in past with no problems. I took the "spare" I had ordered, and wired in a homebrew temperature controller, using a AD22100 150C Sensor clamped to the aluminum frame in place of original thermal switch. I wired a solid state relay where the old thermal switch was and control via a PWM signal so as temp approaches setpoint, the heating is slowly dropped so as not to overshoot so much. With this setup it holds around ±3ºF. The temp will overshoot a 310F setpoint to about 311 or 312F, then start cooling, heat is applied slowly at 310F, temp will fall to maybe 306/307ºF before starting to rise again. I've looked at using a PID algorithm to "tighten" up, but it works good anyway. After melting the first laminator I had, I ordered the 3rd one for a spare, the 3rd is the one that came back as the single heat version. I had hoped it was the same except for being single heat, but looks like it's not? Still having fun:) Ken H>
2010-07-04 by jp.gleyzes
Hi all, This my first message in this forum. I must admit that I have spent hours reading a lot of interesting stuff here before posting AND daring to buy and modify a GBC laminator :-) The results are IMPRESSIVE (at least compared to the traditional "iron" method.. The mods I have done are : - hack the CTN by adding a potentiometer to increase its resistance. With that I can reach 190°C - but the laminator started to melt... - so I have also milled new supports for the moteor and the rollers The result is here : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCMnc30hRe8 Many Many thanks to all of you and your great ideas Cheers JP Oups I have forgatten to introduce myself : I am from France, 49, and I enjoy sharing informations, I love CNC, electronics, computers... and kites and RC planes ... and much more ! --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sailingto" <sailingtoo@...> wrote:
> > The way I get the temperature of the laminator is with a sensor clamped to the same spot on the aluminum frame as the original thermal switch - I do NOT think this reflects the "true" temp of rollers, but is a close as I can come. > > My first attempt as temperature control was using a type "J" thermocouple clamped in place of the thermal switch, and I would watch the temperature as it heated up to around 400F (I had a Brother printer that required high temp), then run my PCB thru a few times to do the TT. One day I forgot, and when I came back the temp was up over 500F - maybe close to 600F? (as measured by thermocouple) - and the plastic frame holding the rollers inside had melted.... THAT is when I decided I had to get a "real" temperature controller rigged up. > > I have heated to 425F several times in past with no problems. > > I took the "spare" I had ordered, and wired in a homebrew temperature controller, using a AD22100 150C Sensor clamped to the aluminum frame in place of original thermal switch. I wired a solid state relay where the old thermal switch was and control via a PWM signal so as temp approaches setpoint, the heating is slowly dropped so as not to overshoot so much. With this setup it holds around ±3ºF. The temp will overshoot a 310F setpoint to about 311 or 312F, then start cooling, heat is applied slowly at 310F, temp will fall to maybe 306/307ºF before starting to rise again. > > I've looked at using a PID algorithm to "tighten" up, but it works good anyway. > > After melting the first laminator I had, I ordered the 3rd one for a spare, the 3rd is the one that came back as the single heat version. I had hoped it was the same except for being single heat, but looks like it's not? > > Still having fun:) > > Ken H> >
2010-07-04 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg
Very Smart, nice video production too. Malcolm I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it! --- On Sun, 7/4/10, jp.gleyzes <freedom2000@...> wrote:
From: jp.gleyzes <freedom2000@...>
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: GBC laminators
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, July 4, 2010, 8:19 PM
Hi all,
This my first message in this forum. I must admit that I have spent hours reading a lot of interesting stuff here before posting AND daring to buy and modify a GBC laminator :-)
The results are IMPRESSIVE (at least compared to the traditional "iron" method..
The mods I have done are :
- hack the CTN by adding a potentiometer to increase its resistance. With that I can reach 190°C
- but the laminator started to melt...
- so I have also milled new supports for the moteor and the rollers
The result is here : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCMnc30hRe8
Many Many thanks to all of you and your great ideas
Cheers
JP
Oups I have forgatten to introduce myself :
I am from France, 49, and I enjoy sharing informations, I love CNC, electronics, computers... and kites and RC planes ... and much more !
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sailingto" <sailingtoo@...> wrote:
>
> The way I get the temperature of the laminator is with a sensor clamped to the same spot on the aluminum frame as the original thermal switch - I do NOT think this reflects the "true" temp of rollers, but is a close as I can come.
>
> My first attempt as temperature control was using a type "J" thermocouple clamped in place of the thermal switch, and I would watch the temperature as it heated up to around 400F (I had a Brother printer that required high temp), then run my PCB thru a few times to do the TT. One day I forgot, and when I came back the temp was up over 500F - maybe close to 600F? (as measured by thermocouple) - and the plastic frame holding the rollers inside had melted.... THAT is when I decided I had to get a "real" temperature controller rigged up.
>
> I have heated to 425F several times in past with no problems.
>
> I took the "spare" I had ordered, and wired in a homebrew temperature controller, using a AD22100 150C Sensor clamped to the aluminum frame in place of original thermal switch. I wired a solid state relay where the old thermal switch was and control via a PWM signal so as temp approaches setpoint, the heating is slowly dropped so as not to overshoot so much. With this setup it holds around ±3ºF. The temp will overshoot a 310F setpoint to about 311 or 312F, then start cooling, heat is applied slowly at 310F, temp will fall to maybe 306/307ºF before starting to rise again.
>
> I've looked at using a PID algorithm to "tighten" up, but it works good anyway.
>
> After melting the first laminator I had, I ordered the 3rd one for a spare, the 3rd is the one that came back as the single heat version. I had hoped it was the same except for being single heat, but looks like it's not?
>
> Still having fun:)
>
> Ken H>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]2010-07-04 by jp.gleyzes
Thanks Malcom; Here is a photo album of the mods that I have done on this GBC laminator : http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/photos/album/2010322437/pic/1318278452/view?picmode=&mode=list&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc I have also the Gcode available to mill the new epoxy walls (to avoid them to melt with high temperatures...) JP --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Malcolm Parker-Lisberg <mparkerlisberg@...> wrote:
> > Very Smart, nice video production too. > > Malcolm > > I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it! > > --- On Sun, 7/4/10, jp.gleyzes <freedom2000@...> wrote: > > From: jp.gleyzes <freedom2000@...> > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: GBC laminators > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > Date: Sunday, July 4, 2010, 8:19 PM > > > > > > > >  > > > > > > > > > > Hi all, > > > > This my first message in this forum. I must admit that I have spent hours reading a lot of interesting stuff here before posting AND daring to buy and modify a GBC laminator :-) > > > > The results are IMPRESSIVE (at least compared to the traditional "iron" method.. > > > > The mods I have done are : > > - hack the CTN by adding a potentiometer to increase its resistance. With that I can reach 190°C > > - but the laminator started to melt... > > - so I have also milled new supports for the moteor and the rollers > > > > The result is here : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCMnc30hRe8 > > > > Many Many thanks to all of you and your great ideas > > > > Cheers > > JP > > > > Oups I have forgatten to introduce myself : > > > > I am from France, 49, and I enjoy sharing informations, I love CNC, electronics, computers... and kites and RC planes ... and much more ! > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sailingto" <sailingtoo@> wrote: > > > > > > The way I get the temperature of the laminator is with a sensor clamped to the same spot on the aluminum frame as the original thermal switch - I do NOT think this reflects the "true" temp of rollers, but is a close as I can come. > > > > > > My first attempt as temperature control was using a type "J" thermocouple clamped in place of the thermal switch, and I would watch the temperature as it heated up to around 400F (I had a Brother printer that required high temp), then run my PCB thru a few times to do the TT. One day I forgot, and when I came back the temp was up over 500F - maybe close to 600F? (as measured by thermocouple) - and the plastic frame holding the rollers inside had melted.... THAT is when I decided I had to get a "real" temperature controller rigged up. > > > > > > I have heated to 425F several times in past with no problems. > > > > > > I took the "spare" I had ordered, and wired in a homebrew temperature controller, using a AD22100 150C Sensor clamped to the aluminum frame in place of original thermal switch. I wired a solid state relay where the old thermal switch was and control via a PWM signal so as temp approaches setpoint, the heating is slowly dropped so as not to overshoot so much. With this setup it holds around ±3ºF. The temp will overshoot a 310F setpoint to about 311 or 312F, then start cooling, heat is applied slowly at 310F, temp will fall to maybe 306/307ºF before starting to rise again. > > > > > > I've looked at using a PID algorithm to "tighten" up, but it works good anyway. > > > > > > After melting the first laminator I had, I ordered the 3rd one for a spare, the 3rd is the one that came back as the single heat version. I had hoped it was the same except for being single heat, but looks like it's not? > > > > > > Still having fun:) > > > > > > Ken H> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >
2010-07-04 by sailingto
> Here is a photo album of the mods that I have done on this GBC laminator : http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/photos/album/2010322437/pic/1318278452/view?picmode=&mode=list&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc > > I have also the Gcode available to mill the new epoxy walls (to avoid them to melt with high temperatures...) > > JP Hello JP, glad to see your post, and a VERY nice job on the toner transfer - clear, clean - should etch very good. I do have a couple of questions and comments: Is that the single heat GBC laminator? If so, do you have a schematic you've drawn up to show where you mounted the resistor to increase the temperature? If this is the dual heat version I think there is a schematic in the files section that is pretty good in PDF format. I have schematic in PDF file if you need it. 190C?? WOW!! That is HOT!! What printer are you using? When using a Brother laser printer I had to get around 210C for good toner transfer. Since changing to a HP P1006 laser printer I only need 140C or so for good TT( Toner Transfer). I also melted the supports on my first GBC laminator - I jumper-ed out the thermal switch and forgot to watch the temperature - when I came back in room the temperature was over 300ºC!!! and the plastic supports where melted allowing the rollers to fall down. How high did the temperature get before the walls melted? Still having fun!!! Ken H>
2010-07-04 by jp.gleyzes
Hi Ken Thanks for your compliments :-) It's eventually the single heat laminator I don't have te schematics... All what I did was to find the CTN (which is hidden under the bottom roller (easy to find --> follow the long yellow wires). Then I simply put a pot in serie with this ctn in order to increase its resistance... And it's enough to cheat the comparator which finds that the temp has not reached the required value... 190°C is the absolute max temp. The green light is on at 170°C, but the temp goes on climbing up to 190° and then decreases slowly. The walls started to melt before 170°... roughly at 150° My laminator had only a 120° temperature. And this wasn't at all enough to melt the toner. I have read on this forum that the ideal temp is 170°C. That's the reason why I went to these temps... and it seems to work fine :-) I don't know the brand of my printer (office one) I will check Bye JP --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sailingto" <sailingtoo@...> wrote:
> > Hello JP, glad to see your post, and a VERY nice job on the toner transfer - clear, clean - should etch very good. > > I do have a couple of questions and comments: > > Is that the single heat GBC laminator? If so, do you have a schematic you've drawn up to show where you mounted the resistor to increase the temperature? If this is the dual heat version I think there is a schematic in the files section that is pretty good in PDF format. I have schematic in PDF file if you need it. > > 190C?? WOW!! That is HOT!! What printer are you using? When using a Brother laser printer I had to get around 210C for good toner transfer. Since changing to a HP P1006 laser printer I only need 140C or so for good TT( Toner Transfer). > > I also melted the supports on my first GBC laminator - I jumper-ed out the thermal switch and forgot to watch the temperature - when I came back in room the temperature was over 300ºC!!! and the plastic supports where melted allowing the rollers to fall down. > > How high did the temperature get before the walls melted? > > Still having fun!!! > > Ken H> >
2010-07-04 by sailingto
Thanks for the response JP, Interesting the sides started to melt at 150ºC - I'm sure the single temperature version is different than the older dual temperature version. I guess I'd better be VERY careful to make sure this one stays good. I remember reading somewhere the circuit on the single temperature version has some type of resistance sensor - the dual heat has a ON/OFF thermal switch. As you said, the temperature switch opened around 120ºC but the temperature would keep coasting upward a few degrees. With the temperature controller I built I have the heat to start tapering off at 10ºC before setpoint, with zero heat at setpoint. Then the temperature will only coast 1 or 2 degrees upward before falling back. As temperature crosses setpoint, the controller starts slowly adding heat to prevent sudden changes. With this setup The temperature usually stays within ±3ºC of setpoint. I'm not sure what the actual copper temperature is, but at the metal where the temperature sensor is mounted, 155ºC gets very good toner transfer.... just where you say the plastic starts to melt on the single heat GBC laminator. Epoxy forms should hold very nicely. Take care and still having fun. Ken H>
2010-07-05 by jp.gleyzes
The fact is tnat this single heat is quite sensitive to over heat !!! But it is so simple to mod ! The CTN is a negative coeff resistor. The more heat the less is the resistor value... BTW, did you publish your temperature control device ? I suppose that it is based on a µcontroller monitoring a CTN resitor value and switching on and off the triac ? With or without a PID ? However, despite the real hysteresis of my laminator it seems to work very well (my pictures were the absolute first try of toner transfert with this laminator)--> exciting process indeed ! The walls in epoxy resist very well, they just become a bit brown close to the heater sides. But you are right, if you don't have a CNC to redesign them, be carefull with the original walls... they overheat quickly. When I saw smoke and stopped it as already too late, even the gears were no longer into contact as the rollers axis were close to an ellipse ! JP --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sailingto" <sailingtoo@...> wrote:
> > Thanks for the response JP, Interesting the sides started to melt at 150ºC - I'm sure the single temperature version is different than the older dual temperature version. I guess I'd better be VERY careful to make sure this one stays good. > > I remember reading somewhere the circuit on the single temperature version has some type of resistance sensor - the dual heat has a ON/OFF thermal switch. As you said, the temperature switch opened around 120ºC but the temperature would keep coasting upward a few degrees. > > With the temperature controller I built I have the heat to start tapering off at 10ºC before setpoint, with zero heat at setpoint. Then the temperature will only coast 1 or 2 degrees upward before falling back. As temperature crosses setpoint, the controller starts slowly adding heat to prevent sudden changes. With this setup The temperature usually stays within ±3ºC of setpoint. > > I'm not sure what the actual copper temperature is, but at the metal where the temperature sensor is mounted, 155ºC gets very good toner transfer.... just where you say the plastic starts to melt on the single heat GBC laminator. Epoxy forms should hold very nicely. > > Take care and still having fun. > > Ken H> >
2010-07-07 by sailingto
Sorry it took so long to respond to your msg JB, but been pretty busy last couple of days. The temperature controller is not published - wasn't sure if anyone had much interest. It's pretty simple and not sophisticated at all. I have looked at using a PID, but am currently at a simpler approach. I have the program set to heat on HIGH until 20ºF before setpoint, then the PWM output starts slowing in a steady 255 steps until at setpoint the output is zero. As the temperature falls 1ºF below setpoint the PWM starts slowly ramping up to keep temp from heating too much. This provides a ±3ºF spread - maybe 4ºF but works pretty good. I like the idea of epoxy for the walls - I have a couple of PCBs that are almost 1/4" that would work a treat for that. I could use the old plastic (before melting:) as a pattern, and a scroll saw to cut the pattern. Good luck and having fun!! Ken H>
2010-07-07 by jp.gleyzes
sounds gret for the temperature regulation ! For the epoxy wall be aware that you need to be very precise to achieve a proper work of alignment of the rollers. A CNC would do a better job ... JP --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sailingto" <sailingtoo@...> wrote:
> > Sorry it took so long to respond to your msg JB, but been pretty busy last couple of days. > > The temperature controller is not published - wasn't sure if anyone had much interest. It's pretty simple and not sophisticated at all. I have looked at using a PID, but am currently at a simpler approach. I have the program set to heat on HIGH until 20ºF before setpoint, then the PWM output starts slowing in a steady 255 steps until at setpoint the output is zero. As the temperature falls 1ºF below setpoint the PWM starts slowly ramping up to keep temp from heating too much. > > This provides a ±3ºF spread - maybe 4ºF but works pretty good. > > I like the idea of epoxy for the walls - I have a couple of PCBs that are almost 1/4" that would work a treat for that. I could use the old plastic (before melting:) as a pattern, and a scroll saw to cut the pattern. > > Good luck and having fun!! > > Ken H> >
2010-07-14 by jp.gleyzes
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "jp.gleyzes" <freedom2000@...> wrote: Hi all, I have uploaded a video of the openened GBC laminator. I don't remember who asked me to do it !!! it's here : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wutE_3Dbqk JP
2010-07-15 by sailingto
Those are your epoxy sides you CNC'd to get the laminator back in business. They look good. you did a VERY good job of the video also. Good Job! Ken H>
2010-07-15 by jp.gleyzes
Thanks Ken :-) Yes these are the epoxy sides. If you want the Gcode to CNC yours, just tell me JP --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sailingto" <sailingtoo@...> wrote:
> > Those are your epoxy sides you CNC'd to get the laminator back in business. They look good. you did a VERY good job of the video also. > > Good Job! > > Ken H> >
2010-07-15 by sailingto
I wish I had the ability to do Gcode - maybe someday? Right now I'd have to use a pattern to do a toner transfer, then cut out with a saw, then hand drill the holes. Do you think that would be accurate enough? Do you have the patterns in Eagle? KiCAD? Ken H> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "jp.gleyzes" <freedom2000@...> wrote:
> > Thanks Ken :-) > > Yes these are the epoxy sides. If you want the Gcode to CNC yours, just tell me > > JP
2010-07-16 by jp.gleyzes
Hi Ken, I have the patterns in CAD formats : - solidworks - step - IGES - ... but neither in eagle nor kikad ! JP --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sailingto" <sailingtoo@...> wrote:
> > I wish I had the ability to do Gcode - maybe someday? Right now I'd have to use a pattern to do a toner transfer, then cut out with a saw, then hand drill the holes. Do you think that would be accurate enough? > > Do you have the patterns in Eagle? KiCAD? > > Ken H> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "jp.gleyzes" <freedom2000@> wrote: > > > > Thanks Ken :-) > > > > Yes these are the epoxy sides. If you want the Gcode to CNC yours, just tell me > > > > JP >
2010-07-16 by Derryck
For those of us without access to CNC, is there any chance of a small production run please? Would be worth some euros. Cheers Derryck --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "jp.gleyzes" <freedom2000@...> wrote:
> > Thanks Ken :-) > > Yes these are the epoxy sides. If you want the Gcode to CNC yours, just tell me > > JP > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sailingto" <sailingtoo@> wrote: > > > > Those are your epoxy sides you CNC'd to get the laminator back in business. They look good. you did a VERY good job of the video also. > > > > Good Job! > > > > Ken H> > > >
2010-07-16 by jp.gleyzes
Yes sure :-) But the problem is not really the price... I wonder rather if all the GBC laminators have the design... I can easyly upload the pattern and you could check if it fits to your laminator. And in case not, just send me a dxf or any other CAD file... The price can be cheap... the price of the stamp + the epoxy sheet ! JP --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Derryck" <derryck@...> wrote:
> > For those of us without access to CNC, is there any chance of a small production run please? Would be worth some euros. > > Cheers > > Derryck > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "jp.gleyzes" <freedom2000@> wrote: > > > > Thanks Ken :-) > > > > Yes these are the epoxy sides. If you want the Gcode to CNC yours, just tell me > > > > JP > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sailingto" <sailingtoo@> wrote: > > > > > > Those are your epoxy sides you CNC'd to get the laminator back in business. They look good. you did a VERY good job of the video also. > > > > > > Good Job! > > > > > > Ken H> > > > > > >
2010-07-16 by Roger Blair
Caution: I have three 9" GBC's, one dual heat, two single heat. The one is identified as "Personal", the others as "Creative". They are all three of the same basic form factor, but quite different shape and color from the black one I've seen modified with new side plates. Hope this helps. Roger
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jp.gleyzes Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 07:56 To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: GBC laminators Yes sure :-) But the problem is not really the price... I wonder rather if all the GBC laminators have the design... I can easyly upload the pattern and you could check if it fits to your laminator. And in case not, just send me a dxf or any other CAD file... The price can be cheap... the price of the stamp + the epoxy sheet ! JP --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> , "Derryck" <derryck@...> wrote: > > For those of us without access to CNC, is there any chance of a small production run please? Would be worth some euros. > > Cheers > > Derryck > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> , "jp.gleyzes" <freedom2000@> wrote: > > > > Thanks Ken :-) > > > > Yes these are the epoxy sides. If you want the Gcode to CNC yours, just tell me > > > > JP > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> , "sailingto" <sailingtoo@> wrote: > > > > > > Those are your epoxy sides you CNC'd to get the laminator back in business. They look good. you did a VERY good job of the video also. > > > > > > Good Job! > > > > > > Ken H> > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2010-07-17 by jp.gleyzes
That's exactly what I meant ! I have uploaded the pattern with cotations in the photo gallery JP --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Blair" <Roger.Blair@...> wrote:
> > Caution: > > I have three 9" GBC's, one dual heat, two single heat. The one is identified as "Personal", the others as "Creative". They are all > three of the same basic form factor, but quite different shape and color from the black one I've seen modified with new side plates. > > Hope this helps. > > Roger > > > > From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jp.gleyzes > Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 07:56 > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: GBC laminators > > > > > > Yes sure :-) > > But the problem is not really the price... > > I wonder rather if all the GBC laminators have the design... > > I can easyly upload the pattern and you could check if it fits to your laminator. > And in case not, just send me a dxf or any other CAD file... > The price can be cheap... the price of the stamp + the epoxy sheet ! > > JP > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> , "Derryck" <derryck@> wrote: > > > > For those of us without access to CNC, is there any chance of a small production run please? Would be worth some euros. > > > > Cheers > > > > Derryck > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> , "jp.gleyzes" <freedom2000@> wrote: > > > > > > Thanks Ken :-) > > > > > > Yes these are the epoxy sides. If you want the Gcode to CNC yours, just tell me > > > > > > JP > > > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> , "sailingto" <sailingtoo@> wrote: > > > > > > > > Those are your epoxy sides you CNC'd to get the laminator back in business. They look good. you did a VERY good job of the > video also. > > > > > > > > Good Job! > > > > > > > > Ken H> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >
2010-07-17 by jp.gleyzes
Hi again Just for (my) pleasure, I have done another pcb. It's working really so well. The result is pretty much perfect. I am really impressed by the huge differece of quality between "iron pcb" and laminated one. See the photos here : http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/photos/album/2010322437/pic/list?mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc JP
2010-07-18 by sailingto
I've been away for a few days - purchased a new house and moving hassles. I do hope this is the last move ever - I've swallowed the anchor! Plenty of space for antennas and a nice air conditioned room w/bathroom for my "toys" away from house. Wife moved a microwave, coffee pot, and sofa to my "shack"...... hmmmm, is she going to let me back in house? Not a problem JP, When I first saw "CAD" I thought "Oh Boy, AutoCAD"... do you have the IGES files posted? I'm pretty sure from your photos I have the same laminator as a spare, but my "using" laminator is the dual heat version. The plastic ends seem to be heavier and stand more heat than the single heat model. 73 de Ken H> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "jp.gleyzes" <freedom2000@...> wrote:
> > Hi Ken, > > I have the patterns in CAD formats : > - solidworks > - step > - IGES > - ... > > but neither in eagle nor kikad ! > > JP
2010-08-18 by Jeff Heiss
The 1701860 and 1701870 have slightly different end plates. I have the cheaper, blue, 1701870 and JP's templates in the file section do not fit it. You can certainly use the 870, you just can't use JP's templates. You have to make your own templates. --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <a_wake@...> wrote:
> > As far as I can see, the difference between 1870 and 1860 is 10. > > :) > > Don't you just love helpful comments like these??? > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob" <rrrydman@> wrote: > > > > Anyone know the difference between the 1701860 and 1701870 GBC laminators? What might be advantageous attributes? One is described Creative while the 1870 is described photo quality. The 1860 has been mentioned as being usable by others, is this also the case with the 1870? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Bob R. > > >