Homebrew PCBs

In my hunt for easier vias, I picked up some 28 gauge brass wire at
the local hardware store.  This wire is 13 mil diameter, just a bit
smaller than my usual 13.5 mil holes.

Turns out it's not *that* hard to get the wire into the hole, but it
does tend to stay put once there.  The brass is easily soldered too.
So, I push the wire through until "just enough" sticks out of the
board, and flux and solder that end.  Flip the board, cut as close to
the PCB as my cutters allow, and flux and solder that side.  Unlike
thinner copper wire, the brass stays put when you solder it.

Brass is harder to bend than copper, but it doesn't need to be bent so
that's not only not a problem, but saves time too :-)

Have you any photo of the finished via with that methode?

2010/6/7 DJ Delorie <dj@...>

>
>
>
> In my hunt for easier vias, I picked up some 28 gauge brass wire at
> the local hardware store. This wire is 13 mil diameter, just a bit
> smaller than my usual 13.5 mil holes.
>
> Turns out it's not *that* hard to get the wire into the hole, but it
> does tend to stay put once there. The brass is easily soldered too.
> So, I push the wire through until "just enough" sticks out of the
> board, and flux and solder that end. Flip the board, cut as close to
> the PCB as my cutters allow, and flux and solder that side. Unlike
> thinner copper wire, the brass stays put when you solder it.
>
> Brass is harder to bend than copper, but it doesn't need to be bent so
> that's not only not a problem, but saves time too :-)
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I do a similar thing, but with 30 gauge wire. To save yourself having to clip on the backside, add a few layers of tape to the corners of the backside of the board to elevate it a little bit. That way the wires poke through just above the height of the board.

Adding the spacer also helps when you have to place a via under an SMD with very little clearance. 

Another variation, when I am reflow soldering, is to solder the via on one side and use solder paste on the other size.


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, DJ Delorie <dj@...> wrote:

>
> 
> In my hunt for easier vias, I picked up some 28 gauge brass wire at
> the local hardware store.  This wire is 13 mil diameter, just a bit
> smaller than my usual 13.5 mil holes.
> 
> Turns out it's not *that* hard to get the wire into the hole, but it
> does tend to stay put once there.  The brass is easily soldered too.
> So, I push the wire through until "just enough" sticks out of the
> board, and flux and solder that end.  Flip the board, cut as close to
> the PCB as my cutters allow, and flux and solder that side.  Unlike
> thinner copper wire, the brass stays put when you solder it.
> 
> Brass is harder to bend than copper, but it doesn't need to be bent so
> that's not only not a problem, but saves time too :-)
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, DJ Delorie <dj@...> wrote:
>
> 
> In my hunt for easier vias, I picked up some 28 gauge brass wire at
> the local hardware store.  This wire is 13 mil diameter, just a bit
> smaller than my usual 13.5 mil holes.
> 
> Turns out it's not *that* hard to get the wire into the hole, but it
> does tend to stay put once there.  The brass is easily soldered too.
> So, I push the wire through until "just enough" sticks out of the
> board, and flux and solder that end.  Flip the board, cut as close to
> the PCB as my cutters allow, and flux and solder that side.  Unlike
> thinner copper wire, the brass stays put when you solder it.
> 
> Brass is harder to bend than copper, but it doesn't need to be bent so
> that's not only not a problem, but saves time too :-)
>

If there aren't too many vias, I find that it works well to 'stitch' the vias with 30 gauge wire (stripped wire-wrap wire) by going back and forth from one side of the board to the other. Once the vias have all been 'stitched', I solder the pads and then use an Xacto knife to clip the wires at the edge of the pads.


Regards, Bob

On 07/06/2010 16:52, Bob_xyz wrote:

> If there aren't too many vias, I find that it works well to 'stitch' the vias with 30 gauge wire (stripped wire-wrap wire) by going back and forth from one side of the board to the other. Once the vias have all been 'stitched', I solder the pads and then use an Xacto knife to clip the wires at the edge of the pads.

I do that sometimes. I have a reel of tinned copper wire of about the 
same thickness.

Leon
-- 
Leon Heller
G1HSM

I have found that a "cheaper" source of bare copper wire is in my hardware store's wire fencing department. The bare wire is made so that when a wire fence is installed, the wire can be used to tie the fence to fence posts.  

The wire comes in various gauges, is bare and is nicely coiled-up for easy use and storage.

I have used this type of wire to create a common ground on perf boards and it works well. Since the wire is bare, it's easy to connect multiple components to it.

I would suspect using this type of wire would be ideal for vias too.

Just my 2 cents worth...  :-)


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob_xyz" <bob_barr@...> wrote:

>
> 
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, DJ Delorie <dj@> wrote:
> >
> > 
> > In my hunt for easier vias, I picked up some 28 gauge brass wire at
> > the local hardware store.  This wire is 13 mil diameter, just a bit
> > smaller than my usual 13.5 mil holes.
> > 
> > Turns out it's not *that* hard to get the wire into the hole, but it
> > does tend to stay put once there.  The brass is easily soldered too.
> > So, I push the wire through until "just enough" sticks out of the
> > board, and flux and solder that end.  Flip the board, cut as close to
> > the PCB as my cutters allow, and flux and solder that side.  Unlike
> > thinner copper wire, the brass stays put when you solder it.
> > 
> > Brass is harder to bend than copper, but it doesn't need to be bent so
> > that's not only not a problem, but saves time too :-)
> >
> 
> If there aren't too many vias, I find that it works well to 'stitch' the vias with 30 gauge wire (stripped wire-wrap wire) by going back and forth from one side of the board to the other. Once the vias have all been 'stitched', I solder the pads and then use an Xacto knife to clip the wires at the edge of the pads.
> 
> 
> Regards, Bob
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Frank P" <qz9090@...> wrote:
>
> I have found that a "cheaper" source of bare copper wire is in my hardware store's wire fencing department. The bare wire is made so that when a wire fence is installed, the wire can be used to tie the fence to fence posts.  
> 
> The wire comes in various gauges, is bare and is nicely coiled-up for easy use and storage.
> 
> I have used this type of wire to create a common ground on perf boards and it works well. Since the wire is bare, it's easy to connect multiple components to it.
> 
> I would suspect using this type of wire would be ideal for vias too.
> 
> Just my 2 cents worth...  :-)
> 

Hey that's a great idea, never even occurred to me to look there. I've been stripping the insulation off scraps of cat5 from work but wire that's already bare would be a lot more convenient.

Just mind that fencing wire might be galvanized steel, not copper.
Also note that the plating, even on copper wire, might not solder
easily on some types of bare wire that are not intended for soldering.

ST

On Mon, Jun 7, 2010 at 7:28 PM, James <jamesrsweet@...> wrote:
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Frank P" <qz9090@...> wrote:
>>
>> I have found that a "cheaper" source of bare copper wire is in my hardware store's wire fencing department. The bare wire is made so that when a wire fence is installed, the wire can be used to tie the fence to fence posts.
>>
>> The wire comes in various gauges, is bare and is nicely coiled-up for easy use and storage.
>>
>> I have used this type of wire to create a common ground on perf boards and it works well. Since the wire is bare, it's easy to connect multiple components to it.
>>
>> I would suspect using this type of wire would be ideal for vias too.
>>
>> Just my 2 cents worth...  :-)
>>
>
> Hey that's a great idea, never even occurred to me to look there. I've been stripping the insulation off scraps of cat5 from work but wire that's already bare would be a lot more convenient.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Google ["bare copper wire"    ]

15 yards 28 gauge delivered to your door for 4.25.

On 06/07/2010 12:38 PM, Stefan Trethan wrote:
> Just mind that fencing wire might be galvanized steel, not copper.
> Also note that the plating, even on copper wire, might not solder
> easily on some types of bare wire that are not intended for soldering.
>
> ST
>
> On Mon, Jun 7, 2010 at 7:28 PM, James<jamesrsweet@...>  wrote:
>    
>>
>> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Frank P"<qz9090@...>  wrote:
>>      
>>> I have found that a "cheaper" source of bare copper wire is in my hardware store's wire fencing department. The bare wire is made so that when a wire fence is installed, the wire can be used to tie the fence to fence posts.
>>>
>>> The wire comes in various gauges, is bare and is nicely coiled-up for easy use and storage.
>>>
>>> I have used this type of wire to create a common ground on perf boards and it works well. Since the wire is bare, it's easy to connect multiple components to it.
>>>
>>> I would suspect using this type of wire would be ideal for vias too.
>>>
>>> Just my 2 cents worth...  :-)
>>>
>>>        
>> Hey that's a great idea, never even occurred to me to look there. I've been stripping the insulation off scraps of cat5 from work but wire that's already bare would be a lot more convenient.
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>      
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>    


-- 
Our peculiar security is in the possession of a written Constitution.
Let us not make it a blank paper by construction."

    --Thomas Jefferson, letter to Wilson Nicholas, 1803

There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
  -- Ed Howdershelt (Author)

I've done the stitching thing before but all those little loops tend to 
get in the way.  I suppose 28 gauge bare copper wire would do too, but I 
worry it would tarnish and become harder to solder.  The 30 gauge moves 
around too much in a 13 mil hole, too.

What would be nice is if I had a cutter that always left a bulge on the 
end of the wire - once you insert it and cut it, it *can't* fall out.

I suppose one could machine a small mandrell and press die, precut a 
bunch of copper wire a bit longer than the thickness of the PCB, and use 
a drill press to press-form them into place like rivets.

Now, if we could pre-cut the wire with a bulge on one end...

In article <4C0D531C.5080000@...>,
   DJ Delorie <dj@...> wrote:
> What would be nice is if I had a cutter that always left a bulge on the 
> end of the wire - once you insert it and cut it, it *can't* fall out.

They used to use those for mounting components on PCBs centuries ago.
Insert component, clip off ends leaving a deformed wire that would retain
the component then, when all were in position, wave solder.

Oh look, you can still get them:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=browseSubRange&Ne=4294953839&N=4294946449&productNum=5402013

-- 
Midlands Midsummer Mug show, for all things RISC OS, July 10th 2010.
Stuart Winsor

A dulled side cutter will do that for you.  Make sure the cutting edges are rounded, and they will deform the wire into a "tee" shaped end that won't fall out.

Donald.


----- "DJ Delorie" <dj@...> wrote:

> I've done the stitching thing before but all those little loops tend
> to 
> get in the way.  I suppose 28 gauge bare copper wire would do too, but
> I 
> worry it would tarnish and become harder to solder.  The 30 gauge
> moves 
> around too much in a 13 mil hole, too.
> 
> What would be nice is if I had a cutter that always left a bulge on
> the 
> end of the wire - once you insert it and cut it, it *can't* fall out.
> 
> I suppose one could machine a small mandrell and press die, precut a 
> bunch of copper wire a bit longer than the thickness of the PCB, and
> use 
> a drill press to press-form them into place like rivets.
> 
> Now, if we could pre-cut the wire with a bulge on one end...
>

Even better (IMO) is strands from stranded wire.  The stuff that is called out as "7x30" (22 AWG) is seven strands of 30AWG.  Already tinned, it can be very easy to work with.  And stripping the insulation from a seven-strand piece of 22AWG is easier (again, IMO) than trying to get the Kynar off of wire-wrap wire.

Donald.

----- "Frank P" <qz9090@...> wrote:

> I have found that a "cheaper" source of bare copper wire is in my
> hardware store's wire fencing department. The bare wire is made so
> that when a wire fence is installed, the wire can be used to tie the
> fence to fence posts.  
> 
> The wire comes in various gauges, is bare and is nicely coiled-up for
> easy use and storage.
> 
> I have used this type of wire to create a common ground on perf boards
> and it works well. Since the wire is bare, it's easy to connect
> multiple components to it.
> 
> I would suspect using this type of wire would be ideal for vias too.
> 
> Just my 2 cents worth...  :-)
> 
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob_xyz" <bob_barr@...> wrote:
> >
> > 
> > 
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, DJ Delorie <dj@> wrote:
> > >
> > > 
> > > In my hunt for easier vias, I picked up some 28 gauge brass wire
> at
> > > the local hardware store.  This wire is 13 mil diameter, just a
> bit
> > > smaller than my usual 13.5 mil holes.
> > > 
> > > Turns out it's not *that* hard to get the wire into the hole, but
> it
> > > does tend to stay put once there.  The brass is easily soldered
> too.
> > > So, I push the wire through until "just enough" sticks out of the
> > > board, and flux and solder that end.  Flip the board, cut as close
> to
> > > the PCB as my cutters allow, and flux and solder that side. 
> Unlike
> > > thinner copper wire, the brass stays put when you solder it.
> > > 
> > > Brass is harder to bend than copper, but it doesn't need to be
> bent so
> > > that's not only not a problem, but saves time too :-)
> > >
> > 
> > If there aren't too many vias, I find that it works well to 'stitch'
> the vias with 30 gauge wire (stripped wire-wrap wire) by going back
> and forth from one side of the board to the other. Once the vias have
> all been 'stitched', I solder the pads and then use an Xacto knife to
> clip the wires at the edge of the pads.
> > 
> > 
> > Regards, Bob
> >

I've used de-stranded speaker wire up until now.  If you can find a 7x28 
wire, that would be great, but 7x30 (or 7x31) is loose in a 13.5 mil 
hole, so it moves around a lot due to surface tension from the solder. 
That's why I was looking for something that would be a tighter fit in a 
13.5 mil hole.

I suppose one could buy a smaller drill to fit the destranded speaker 
wire :-)

On 06/07/2010 09:56 PM, Donald H Locker wrote:
> A dulled side cutter will do that for you.

I have one, but apparently there's a fine line between "sharp" and "too 
dull to actually cut anything" :-P

On Tue, 8 Jun 2010 01:56:26 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:

>A dulled side cutter will do that for you.  Make sure the cutting edges are rounded, and they will deform the wire into a "tee" shaped end that won't fall out.
>
>Donald.
>
>
>
Once upon a time there was a commercial cutting tool that left a flattened
end on the wire. It was used to trim component leads and keep them from lifting
or falling out during wave soldering. It also cut without transmitting a mechanical 
shock up the component lead. I have no idea if such a thing is still available; 
haven't seen one in at least 20 years.

Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC

This is the kind of copper wire I have been using (see link).

http://wedo.hillmangroup.com/viewitems/wire-dispenser-packs/copper-wire?


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "James" <jamesrsweet@...> wrote:

>
> 
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Frank P" <qz9090@> wrote:
> >
> > I have found that a "cheaper" source of bare copper wire is in my hardware store's wire fencing department. The bare wire is made so that when a wire fence is installed, the wire can be used to tie the fence to fence posts.  
> > 
> > The wire comes in various gauges, is bare and is nicely coiled-up for easy use and storage.
> > 
> > I have used this type of wire to create a common ground on perf boards and it works well. Since the wire is bare, it's easy to connect multiple components to it.
> > 
> > I would suspect using this type of wire would be ideal for vias too.
> > 
> > Just my 2 cents worth...  :-)
> > 
> 
> Hey that's a great idea, never even occurred to me to look there. I've been stripping the insulation off scraps of cat5 from work but wire that's already bare would be a lot more convenient.
>