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Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-13 by w6mikk

I am trying to etch a small pcboard made using toner transfer.
Am applying FeCl with a sponge by hand. Never completes etching, after many hours, result is only partially etched. Also immersed pcb in bowl of FeCl. Results are the same.

My FeCl from RADIOSHACK (GL brand) is very old and has been sitting on shelf unused for years. I have a 3/4 full container I would like to restore. I need to know what are the methods and chemicals needed to restore my old FeCl to etch quickly and completely.

FeCl color is dark brown or black with a green tint.
Container has a mix of dark brown and green liquids.

The restore etchant info in the archives has me confused.

At Photobucket, I have some pictures.
http://s1001.photobucket.com/albums/af140/Dave_ss/PCBoard%20Etching/

Thank you for help.
Dave_S

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-13 by Malcolm Parker-Lisberg

Look up Edinburg etch on google or:
<http://www.polymetaal.nl/beguin/mape/edinburgh_etch.htm>
and
<http://www.lawrence.co.uk/fact_sheets/pdfs/Edinburgh%20Etch.pdf>

Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!

Show quoted textHide quoted text

--- On Thu, 5/13/10, w6mikk <group78@...> wrote:

From: w6mikk <group78@...>
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, May 13, 2010, 7:14 PM

I am trying to etch a small pcboard made using toner transfer.

Am applying FeCl with a sponge by hand. Never completes etching, after many hours, result is only partially etched. Also immersed pcb in bowl of FeCl. Results are the same.

My FeCl from RADIOSHACK (GL brand) is very old and has been sitting on shelf unused for years. I have a 3/4 full container I would like to restore. I need to know what are the methods and chemicals needed to restore my old FeCl to etch quickly and completely.

FeCl color is dark brown or black with a green tint.

Container has a mix of dark brown and green liquids.

The restore etchant info in the archives has me confused.

At Photobucket, I have some pictures.

http://s1001. photobucket. com/albums/ af140/Dave_ ss/PCBoard% 20Etching/

Thank you for help.

Dave_S

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-13 by DJ Delorie

FeCl would normally be a light or dark tan color. Black or green means
it's spent. The cheapest thing to try is to add some hydrogen peroxide
to it, which will convert some or all of the dissolved copper into a
cupric chloride etchant (emerald green). If that doesn't work, you'll
have to add some hydrochloric acid, effectively making an acid/peroxide
etchant that happens to have some spent FeCl in it.

I've used old etchant that wasn't spent and it works just fine; it's not
the age that counts it's how much you've used it.

Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-14 by Dave_s

PC Board group and "DJ Delorie" dj@...
<mailto:dj@...?Subject=%20Re%3A%20Old%20GL%20FeCl%20-very%20slow%20%20etching%20copper>

Thank you for info!!!!!!!!

> FeCl would normally be a light or dark tan color. Black or green means
> it's spent. The cheapest thing to try is to add some hydrogen peroxide
> to it, which will convert some or all of the dissolved copper into a
> cupric chloride etchant (emerald green).

I have several bottles of 3% hydrogen peroxide. Will 3% work or do I
need to buy 10% or stronger?

> If that doesn't work, you'll
> have to add some hydrochloric acid, effectively making an acid/peroxide
> etchant that happens to have some spent FeCl in it.

Ok.

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>
> I've used old etchant that wasn't spent and it works just fine; it's not
> the age that counts it's how much you've used it.

Never used my FeCl very much. Is a mystery why my solution is in
this condition.
Many thanks for suggestions.
Dave_s

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-14 by Hector Garcia

Hi.

You can use those 3% bottles. Left the mix to settle for -at least - 1 day.

Also, don't forget to keep all that dark brown deposits in the liquid.
They're Oxidized Fe, needed for regenerate the FeCL mix again.

When you're etching your board, you can heat (before etching) the mix
a bit, lets say, about 38 C°/100 F°.

I have a 10 years bottle. Still etching in about 15 minutes.

Regards

--
Hector
--
El Pic no pudo Iniciar correctamente.
Inserte el disco de arranque y presione cualquier pin para continuar...

Linux Registered User #467500
http://counter.li.org/

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-14 by DJ Delorie

I've always used 3% but in this case, you only need the H2O2, not the
water it's diluted with. If you have easy access to stronger H2O2, go
ahead and use it.

Another option is to heat up the FeCl to make it work faster. I just
float the bottle in some hot tap water for a while.

Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-15 by James

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, DJ Delorie <dj@...> wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>
> I've always used 3% but in this case, you only need the H2O2, not the
> water it's diluted with. If you have easy access to stronger H2O2, go
> ahead and use it.
>
> Another option is to heat up the FeCl to make it work faster. I just
> float the bottle in some hot tap water for a while.
>

An aquarium heater works well and they're cheap. I accidentally broke the one I I got at a garage sale and a brand new one was only $10 on ebay.

I use cupric chloride now but with either etchant it shouldn't take longer than 3-4 minutes to etch. Too slow and you can get pitting.

Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-16 by Ben L

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, DJ Delorie <dj@...> wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>
> FeCl would normally be a light or dark tan color. Black or green means
> it's spent. The cheapest thing to try is to add some hydrogen peroxide
> to it, which will convert some or all of the dissolved copper into a
> cupric chloride etchant (emerald green). If that doesn't work, you'll
> have to add some hydrochloric acid, effectively making an acid/peroxide
> etchant that happens to have some spent FeCl in it.
>
> I've used old etchant that wasn't spent and it works just fine; it's not
> the age that counts it's how much you've used it.
>

FeCl also works best Heated. I would really recommend the Cupric Cholride, it works great. I use to use FeCl but now that I use Cupric Cholride I'll never use FeCl again. Cupric Cholride also does great just at room temp. so no heating.

Ben

Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-17 by James

>
> FeCl also works best Heated. I would really recommend the Cupric Cholride, it works great. I use to use FeCl but now that I use Cupric Cholride I'll never use FeCl again. Cupric Cholride also does great just at room temp. so no heating.
>
> Ben
>

I found cupric chloride to be very slow at room temp, it benefits from heating even more than FeCl. HCl + peroxide certainly works fine at room temp though, until enough of it converts.

Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-17 by Frank P

Ben,
Being very new to PCB etching, I wouldn't know where to begin to look for cupric chloride. Any hints? Do you handle it the same way as FeCl?

Also, what is the best way to dispose of etchant?

Thanks.

Show quoted textHide quoted text

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Ben L" <bhleavi@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, DJ Delorie <dj@> wrote:
> >
> > FeCl would normally be a light or dark tan color. Black or green means
> > it's spent. The cheapest thing to try is to add some hydrogen peroxide
> > to it, which will convert some or all of the dissolved copper into a
> > cupric chloride etchant (emerald green). If that doesn't work, you'll
> > have to add some hydrochloric acid, effectively making an acid/peroxide
> > etchant that happens to have some spent FeCl in it.
> >
> > I've used old etchant that wasn't spent and it works just fine; it's not
> > the age that counts it's how much you've used it.
> >
>
> FeCl also works best Heated. I would really recommend the Cupric Cholride, it works great. I use to use FeCl but now that I use Cupric Cholride I'll never use FeCl again. Cupric Cholride also does great just at room temp. so no heating.
>
> Ben
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-17 by Chris Maness

Make sure that you are aeriating the solution VERY vigorously. If
there is not enough free oxygen in the solution, an insoluble layer of
Copper (I) Chloride will form and preven further oxidation and removal
of the copper from the board. I don't have areation, so I just throw
a shot of hydrogen peroxide in the solution, and that will remove the
brown layer that stops the etching.

Chris

Show quoted textHide quoted text

On Mon, May 17, 2010 at 10:28 AM, Frank P <qz9090@...> wrote:
> Ben,
> Being very new to PCB etching, I wouldn't know where to begin to look for cupric chloride. Any hints? Do you handle it the same way as FeCl?
>
> Also, what is the best way to dispose of etchant?
>
> Thanks.
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Ben L" <bhleavi@...> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, DJ Delorie <dj@> wrote:
>> >
>> > FeCl would normally be a light or dark tan color. Black or green means
>> > it's spent. The cheapest thing to try is to add some hydrogen peroxide
>> > to it, which will convert some or all of the dissolved copper into a
>> > cupric chloride etchant (emerald green). If that doesn't work, you'll
>> > have to add some hydrochloric acid, effectively making an acid/peroxide
>> > etchant that happens to have some spent FeCl in it.
>> >
>> > I've used old etchant that wasn't spent and it works just fine; it's not
>> > the age that counts it's how much you've used it.
>> >
>>
>> FeCl also works best Heated. I would really recommend the Cupric Cholride, it works great. I use to use FeCl but now that I use Cupric Cholride I'll never use FeCl again. Cupric Cholride also does great just at room temp. so no heating.
>>
>> Ben
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-17 by Stefan Trethan

Note that the boiling point of HCl is very low, so if you use that to
regenerate your CuCl don't go crazy on the heating or it will really
fume.

ST

Show quoted textHide quoted text

On Mon, May 17, 2010 at 7:17 PM, James <jamesrsweet@...> wrote:

>
> I found cupric chloride to be very slow at room temp, it benefits from heating even more than FeCl. HCl + peroxide certainly works fine at room temp though, until enough of it converts.
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-17 by Harvey & Betty McRae

Start by checking with an electronic supplier....ie. resistors, capacitors, etc.. They sometimes carry the copper clad boards, as well as the etching fluids. Radio Shack, or now the "Source" in Canada also carried it at one time, but I find them a little more expensive..

Harvey L. McRae
838 McKenzie Road,
Kelowna, BC. V1X2B3.

www.harriscreekcentral.webs.com

Show quoted textHide quoted text

----- Original Message -----
From: Frank P
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2010 10:28 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

Ben,
Being very new to PCB etching, I wouldn't know where to begin to look for cupric chloride. Any hints? Do you handle it the same way as FeCl?

Also, what is the best way to dispose of etchant?

Thanks.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Ben L" <bhleavi@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, DJ Delorie <dj@> wrote:
> >
> > FeCl would normally be a light or dark tan color. Black or green means
> > it's spent. The cheapest thing to try is to add some hydrogen peroxide
> > to it, which will convert some or all of the dissolved copper into a
> > cupric chloride etchant (emerald green). If that doesn't work, you'll
> > have to add some hydrochloric acid, effectively making an acid/peroxide
> > etchant that happens to have some spent FeCl in it.
> >
> > I've used old etchant that wasn't spent and it works just fine; it's not
> > the age that counts it's how much you've used it.
> >
>
> FeCl also works best Heated. I would really recommend the Cupric Cholride, it works great. I use to use FeCl but now that I use Cupric Cholride I'll never use FeCl again. Cupric Cholride also does great just at room temp. so no heating.
>
> Ben
>

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-18 by James

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Frank P" <qz9090@...> wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>
> Ben,
> Being very new to PCB etching, I wouldn't know where to begin to look for cupric chloride. Any hints? Do you handle it the same way as FeCl?
>
> Also, what is the best way to dispose of etchant?
>
>

Most (all?) of us make it ourselves. Start out with hydrochloric acid, I picked up a gallon at a masonry supply shop for about 8 bucks, then mix it with an equal part hydrogen peroxide, the 3% supermarket stuff works fine. The mixture will etch copper nicely and in the process convert to cupric chloride.

Handling is similar, you should wear rubber gloves and safety glasses and take care not to spill it on anything. It will burn skin more readily than FeCl but it is not nearly as prone to stain everything it touches. The best part is you can regenerate it by aeration or by adding about a teaspoon of peroxide prior to etching so it can be reused virtually indefinitely.

Disposal varies by etchant, there's been a fair amount of discussion on that in here, look through the old posts.

Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-18 by Ben L

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Frank P" <qz9090@...> wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>
> Ben,
> Being very new to PCB etching, I wouldn't know where to begin to look for cupric chloride. Any hints? Do you handle it the same way as FeCl?

Cupric Chloride Starts out as Hydrochloric Acid is what forms once enough copper is disolved into it. Can be started with Hydrocholoric Acid and Copper then regenrated with air/oxygen also Hydrogen Peroxide. You can also start with a little copper at a time using Hydrochloric Acid and Hydrogen Peroxide. See Adam Seychell's website should be listed in the Links section. Also Chemcut Corporation has a Technical Paper about it.

Cupric Chloride can be regenrated with oxygen so you don't need to dispose of it.

The FeCl I hear can be regenrated but I never have done it and can also become Cupric Chloride. To dispose of it I have used Baking Soda (it will foam Up) then leave it in open container till dry and then seal up and throw in the trash. Some mix it up in concrete mix to suspend it in the concrete.

Myself I normally do boards 8" x 12" using a plastic storage container, lay the board flat on the surface so it floats on top with air bubbler. I use to use my air compressor to supply the air but I aquired a Air Pump that is made for Septic Systems designed to run 24/7.

Ben

Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-18 by Ben L

> I found cupric chloride to be very slow at room temp, it benefits from heating even more than FeCl. HCl + peroxide certainly works fine at room temp though, until enough of it converts.
>

I have never heated mine before. In fact I have it on the back porch and have etched boards fine in cold weather. I just pump lots of air into it. Sometimes add a little HCl if it seems to be slower than normal. I kept it covered when not in use but can still vent. So times will leave it uncovered to reduce it down some. I normally don't add any peroxide.

Ben

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-18 by mlerman@ix.netcom.com

-----Original Message-----

>From: Ben L <bhleavi@...>
>Sent: May 17, 2010 11:55 PM
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper
>
>
>
>> I found cupric chloride to be very slow at room temp, it benefits from heating even more than FeCl. HCl + peroxide certainly works fine at room temp though, until enough of it converts.
>>
>
>I have never heated mine before. In fact I have it on the back porch and have etched boards fine in cold weather. I just pump lots of air into it. Sometimes add a little HCl if it seems to be slower than normal. I kept it covered when not in use but can still vent. So times will leave it uncovered to reduce it down some. I normally don't add any peroxide.
>
>Ben
>

How long does a board take to etch with this system?

Mark

>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-18 by Frank P

James,
When you mix the HCL with the hydrogen peroxide what kind of container do you use? Also, how do you store the cupric chloride? In a bottle, etc?

Also, when you are etching your PCB, what kind of container do you use?

Thanks.

Show quoted textHide quoted text

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "James" <jamesrsweet@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Frank P" <qz9090@> wrote:
> >
> > Ben,
> > Being very new to PCB etching, I wouldn't know where to begin to look for cupric chloride. Any hints? Do you handle it the same way as FeCl?
> >
> > Also, what is the best way to dispose of etchant?
> >
> >
>
>
> Most (all?) of us make it ourselves. Start out with hydrochloric acid, I picked up a gallon at a masonry supply shop for about 8 bucks, then mix it with an equal part hydrogen peroxide, the 3% supermarket stuff works fine. The mixture will etch copper nicely and in the process convert to cupric chloride.
>
> Handling is similar, you should wear rubber gloves and safety glasses and take care not to spill it on anything. It will burn skin more readily than FeCl but it is not nearly as prone to stain everything it touches. The best part is you can regenerate it by aeration or by adding about a teaspoon of peroxide prior to etching so it can be reused virtually indefinitely.
>
> Disposal varies by etchant, there's been a fair amount of discussion on that in here, look through the old posts.
>

Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-19 by James

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Frank P" <qz9090@...> wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>
> James,
> When you mix the HCL with the hydrogen peroxide what kind of container do you use? Also, how do you store the cupric chloride? In a bottle, etc?
>
> Also, when you are etching your PCB, what kind of container do you use?
>
>

I mixed mine in my etchant tank which I constructed out of 3/16" plexiglass solvent welded together, but I've seen people use the narrow rectangular plastic juice pitchers that have snap on lids. I store the etchant in a plastic bottle which I store in a plastic shopping bag with some baking soda in the bottom in case it somehow leaks.

Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-19 by James

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Ben L" <bhleavi@...> wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>
>
>
> > I found cupric chloride to be very slow at room temp, it benefits from heating even more than FeCl. HCl + peroxide certainly works fine at room temp though, until enough of it converts.
> >
>
> I have never heated mine before. In fact I have it on the back porch and have etched boards fine in cold weather. I just pump lots of air into it. Sometimes add a little HCl if it seems to be slower than normal. I kept it covered when not in use but can still vent. So times will leave it uncovered to reduce it down some. I normally don't add any peroxide.
>
> Ben
>

How long does it usually take? I found that mine took ~15 minutes to etch at room temp, while I'm used to etching in 3-4 minutes. Longer etching times cause more problems with pitting and etching under the resist. I had trouble making reliable 10 mil traces unless I heated it.

Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-19 by Ben L

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, mlerman@... wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: Ben L <bhleavi@...>
> >Sent: May 17, 2010 11:55 PM
> >To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper
> >
> >
> >
> >> I found cupric chloride to be very slow at room temp, it benefits from heating even more than FeCl. HCl + peroxide certainly works fine at room temp though, until enough of it converts.
> >>
> >
> >I have never heated mine before. In fact I have it on the back porch and have etched boards fine in cold weather. I just pump lots of air into it. Sometimes add a little HCl if it seems to be slower than normal. I kept it covered when not in use but can still vent. So times will leave it uncovered to reduce it down some. I normally don't add any peroxide.
> >
> >Ben
> >
>
> How long does a board take to etch with this system?
>
> Mark

I have never really timed it to say for sure. Depends on how regentated it is and if I did a copper pour that reduces the area that needs to etch. I would say 5 to no more than 10 mins.

Seems to be about the same that I got with Heated FeCl then times change with it depending on how much had been etched in it also.

Ben

Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-19 by Frank P

James,
I believe you need to introduce oxygen into the etchant (air bubbles) to increase the effectiveness of the etching process. If you look at some of the "how-to"s in the Links section of the Group, you might get some ideas.

It seems that the following affect the results:
1) air bubbles
2) temperature
3) HCl to hydrogen peroxide mix

I'm just beginning to investigate the use of CuCl, so the information I have provided is based on my research on the Links page and on the Internet.

Show quoted textHide quoted text

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "James" <jamesrsweet@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Ben L" <bhleavi@> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > > I found cupric chloride to be very slow at room temp, it benefits from heating even more than FeCl. HCl + peroxide certainly works fine at room temp though, until enough of it converts.
> > >
> >
> > I have never heated mine before. In fact I have it on the back porch and have etched boards fine in cold weather. I just pump lots of air into it. Sometimes add a little HCl if it seems to be slower than normal. I kept it covered when not in use but can still vent. So times will leave it uncovered to reduce it down some. I normally don't add any peroxide.
> >
> > Ben
> >
>
>
> How long does it usually take? I found that mine took ~15 minutes to etch at room temp, while I'm used to etching in 3-4 minutes. Longer etching times cause more problems with pitting and etching under the resist. I had trouble making reliable 10 mil traces unless I heated it.
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-19 by Stefan Trethan

In case you don't know it already, check out this page by Adam Seychell:

<http://members.optusnet.com.au/~eseychell/PCB/etching_CuCl/index.html>

It does not cover H2O2 regenerated CuCl which can have a faster etch
rate, possibly because some CuCl is immediately regenerated at the
copper surface.

HCl and H2O2 concentration most definitely has an influence, I timed a
very tiny sample at less than 10 seconds to etch a PCB blank. Those
concentrations are not practical for normal use.

I have observed regular etching times from something like 10 minutes
to several hours with my setup. The several hours was when I did not
add any HCl or H2O2 and the etchant wasn't regenerated.

Even with several hours etching time I do not see any bad
under-etching, or pitting. I have mostly double sided stock but prefer
single sided designs, so the back side hogs easily two thirds of the
etching time while the artwork side is already done much sooner. If
I'd see problems with underetching I'd do something about that, but so
far there are none. I use mostly 10mil/0.25mm minimum trace width.

ST

Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-19 by James

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Frank P" <qz9090@...> wrote:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

>
> James,
> I believe you need to introduce oxygen into the etchant (air bubbles) to increase the effectiveness of the etching process. If you look at some of the "how-to"s in the Links section of the Group, you might get some ideas.
>
> It seems that the following affect the results:
> 1) air bubbles
> 2) temperature
> 3) HCl to hydrogen peroxide mix
>
> I'm just beginning to investigate the use of CuCl, so the information I have provided is based on my research on the Links page and on the Internet.
>
>

I could probably benefit from more air and finer bubbles. I do have a bubbler set up in my tank but the bubbles are a bit large and I have trouble getting them distributed evenly. I get good results by heating the solution though so there's no urgent reason to change the process.

Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-19 by James

>
> Even with several hours etching time I do not see any bad
> under-etching, or pitting. I have mostly double sided stock but prefer
> single sided designs, so the back side hogs easily two thirds of the
> etching time while the artwork side is already done much sooner. If
> I'd see problems with underetching I'd do something about that, but so
> far there are none. I use mostly 10mil/0.25mm minimum trace width.
>
>
> ST
>

Heh I have the opposite problem. I have mostly single sided stock but it's more and more often that I'd like to do a double sided board! Vetco has 20"x24" 1/16" single sided board for $12/sheet but I haven't found a good price on big pieces of double sided.

Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-20 by Andrew

James, are you in the US? If so, check out this ebay seller:

http://myworld.ebay.com/amt33461/

No affiliation other than a satisfied customer.

(if the link doesn't work, search for the seller:

Show quoted textHide quoted text

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "James" <jamesrsweet@...> wrote:
>
>
> >
> > Even with several hours etching time I do not see any bad
> > under-etching, or pitting. I have mostly double sided stock but prefer
> > single sided designs, so the back side hogs easily two thirds of the
> > etching time while the artwork side is already done much sooner. If
> > I'd see problems with underetching I'd do something about that, but so
> > far there are none. I use mostly 10mil/0.25mm minimum trace width.
> >
> >
> > ST
> >
>
>
> Heh I have the opposite problem. I have mostly single sided stock but it's more and more often that I'd like to do a double sided board! Vetco has 20"x24" 1/16" single sided board for $12/sheet but I haven't found a good price on big pieces of double sided.
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Re: Old GL FeCl -very slow etching copper

2010-05-20 by sailingto

I have purchased from that seller in the past - decent boards. I found better prices from this guy:

http://stores.ebay.com/PCB-Laminates-Copper-Clad?_rdc=1

Best buy of all was a 30 lb bundle for $30 shipped - somewhere around that price - the smallest piece was 4X6 I think it was? A good assortment of .031" to .062" for most part. I'm set for PCB for a while now.

Check this seller and compare prices.

Ken H>

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> James, are you in the US? If so, check out this ebay seller:
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> http://myworld.ebay.com/amt33461/
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> No affiliation other than a satisfied customer.