Homebrew PCBs

Hey Guys, I just attempted the Toner Transfer method by using my kitchen
oven.  I preheated the oven and PCB to 300 degrees. It didn't work out
very well due to lack of the right amount and an even amount of pressure
across the board.  This method could potentially work very  well if I
had a suitable solid weight to put on top.  

 

Anyone ever try this ?  Or If anyone attempts it, please post the
results. 

 

 

 

Best Regards,

Steve Maroney

 

Business Computer Support, LLC

Mobile Phone:504-914-4704

Office Phone: 504-904-0266

Fax: 866-871-7797

 

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Steve: Look at message 
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/22175
 I used a preheated block of steel and a clamp  ... I have had 
consistent results and rarely a failure ...
the failure is usually poor cleaning or a finger print. The 
thermo-couple used plugs into my DVM
The steel block was a "cut-off" and I used some fine grit sand-paper to 
lap the steel
My method is not the same as yours but it shows you are on the right track
I just bought an Lexmark E260D printer and will try the DLP(Direct Laser 
Printing) method ... as soon as Mark gives out the needed modifications ...
Jim KI6MZ

Steve Maroney wrote:

> Hey Guys, I just attempted the Toner Transfer method by using my kitchen
> oven.  I preheated the oven and PCB to 300 degrees. It didn't work out
> very well due to lack of the right amount and an even amount of pressure
> across the board.  This method could potentially work very  well if I
> had a suitable solid weight to put on top.  
>
>  
>
> Anyone ever try this ?  Or If anyone attempts it, please post the
> results. 
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Steve Maroney
>
>  
>
> Business Computer Support, LLC
>
> Mobile Phone:504-914-4704
>
> Office Phone: 504-904-0266
>
> Fax: 866-871-7797
>
>  
>
>  
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>

I've been wondering about this oven method too. Lapping a slab of steel sounds like a chore though. I've lapped heatsinks before and that wasn't fun.

Yesterday there was a post here:

http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/25632

That describes a cheap silicone baking mat that may be useful between the steel plate and the board. Heat transfer may be improved so no need for lapping(?):

http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/25632

The link to the mat is:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009A9WU/?tag=thecelpho-20

Regards, David WB4ONA

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Jim <jhutch17@...> wrote:

>
> Steve: Look at message 
> http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/22175
>  I used a preheated block of steel and a clamp  ... I have had 
> consistent results and rarely a failure ...
> the failure is usually poor cleaning or a finger print. The 
> thermo-couple used plugs into my DVM
> The steel block was a "cut-off" and I used some fine grit sand-paper to 
> lap the steel
> My method is not the same as yours but it shows you are on the right track
> I just bought an Lexmark E260D printer and will try the DLP(Direct Laser 
> Printing) method ... as soon as Mark gives out the needed modifications ...
> Jim KI6MZ
> 
> Steve Maroney wrote:
> > Hey Guys, I just attempted the Toner Transfer method by using my kitchen
> > oven.  I preheated the oven and PCB to 300 degrees. It didn't work out
> > very well due to lack of the right amount and an even amount of pressure
> > across the board.  This method could potentially work very  well if I
> > had a suitable solid weight to put on top.  
> >
> >  
> >
> > Anyone ever try this ?  Or If anyone attempts it, please post the
> > results. 
> >
> >  
> >
> >  
> >
> >  
> >
> > Best Regards,
> >
> > Steve Maroney
> >
> >  
> >
> > Business Computer Support, LLC
> >
> > Mobile Phone:504-914-4704
> >
> > Office Phone: 504-904-0266
> >
> > Fax: 866-871-7797
> >
> >  
> >
> >  
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

Yep, that is the way I started - worked ok, more work and results were not totally consistent.  I finally spent the $25 for a laminator and problems are over.  Now I have very consistent results with a HP P1006 printer and laminator.  Print on Pulsar paper (less than 20 cents/PCB) (or mag paper), run thru laminator 5 or 6 times.... good results so far.

Ken H>

What laminator are you using?

On Tue, May 4, 2010 at 1:54 PM, sailingto <sailingtoo@...> wrote:

>
>
> Yep, that is the way I started - worked ok, more work and results were not
> totally consistent. I finally spent the $25 for a laminator and problems are
> over. Now I have very consistent results with a HP P1006 printer and
> laminator. Print on Pulsar paper (less than 20 cents/PCB) (or mag paper),
> run thru laminator 5 or 6 times.... good results so far.
>
> Ken H>
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I am using the same laminator sold by Pulsar - a "GBC Personal Laminator" that was sold by "MyBinding" on ebay for $25 shipped.  The one I have is a 2 heat model.  MyBinding has item #270479400127 listed for $25 but I think it's a single heat - which is ok because the only heat level used was high anyway.  

It might be the two heat version as it says "3 and 5 mil" pouches, that was the low and high settings on my laminator.  I added a temperature controller to my laminator so it gets a bit hotter.  Stock as sold by Pulsar works, but you have to run PCB thru more often.  It handles .062" ok, but is better to bevel the edge for .062".  For .050" and less it is just fine as is.

Stock, the high setting temperature tends to shut off around 280F, then cool to 250F before coming back on and that's too much deadband.  It will work, let laminator heat until green LED turns on showing it has stopped heating, then quickly run board thru 6 to 9 times and it's usually pretty good then. 

I heat up to 310 and run my boards thru there.  You want the heat hot enough to melt the toner so it will stick to copper.  Anything over 300F works real good.  Even up to 320F is ok.  I used this laminator to TT using a brother printer and those take 400F to work at all.  I just removed the thermal switch and monitored temperature until it got up over 400F then did the boards.  One day I walked out of room while heating up...... and forgot.  When I got back the laminator was well over 600F and plastic parts melted....  That's when I decided I'd better have a hi-shutoff.

Good luck and have fun,

Ken H>