Homebrew PCBs

Hi
Anyone using this printer for toner transfer ?
what sort of results do\did you get ?

I have been having a play about with it, and i can get it to print 
dark on some paper(has a matt finish), but i think that there is not 
enough toner going onto the paper(it leaves a milky looking film on
the pcb after soaking in warm soapy water).

Is there a printer driver for this printer that can put more toner on
the paper ?

Thanks
Howard

Milky looking film is probably paper residue, which is normal.

To check print density hold against a bright light while on paper. The
only definite test however is etching and checking if the larger areas
are pitted or not.

Old HP printers used to have mechanical knobs inside the printer,
often green, to adjust toner density, rather than a driver setting. I
don't know this model.


ST

On Sat, Nov 28, 2009 at 10:31 AM, Howard <howard_g7lqy@sky.com> wrote:
> Hi
> Anyone using this printer for toner transfer ?
> what sort of results do\did you get ?
>
> I have been having a play about with it, and i can get it to print
> dark on some paper(has a matt finish), but i think that there is not
> enough toner going onto the paper(it leaves a milky looking film on
> the pcb after soaking in warm soapy water).
>
> Is there a printer driver for this printer that can put more toner on
> the paper ?
>
> Thanks
> Howard
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Howard, I am using an HP P2015dn -- almost the same model, but has a network interface. Presumably the engine is the same.

Using the HP toner, I have gotten good results doing TT. I've only done three boards, plus some testing, but all of them have worked pretty well.

I did the first two boards printing onto thin glossy paper from a catalog. This worked very well for transfer, but it was hard to see the pattern -- a problem since I was trying to do a double-sided board. The paper came free pretty easily after soaking in hot water.

I did the third board using HP color laser glossy paper, which had been recommended here. The transfer turned out very well ... but getting the paper free was a bear. I soaked and soaked, and rubbed and rubbed ... I never did get all the paper completely off of the places where the toner was, but it was all off the copper, so I etched, and it turned out very well.

All of the above were done using a household iron, turned up to max, with a sheet of plain paper between the iron and the tt paper/pcb. I have recently acquired a very nice laminator, and have run a sample of PCB through just to see how it worked. The answer is, it worked very well ... with an unexpected result. I was able to peel away the glossy paper immediately after the last pass through the laminator, and all the toner stayed adhered. There is still a thin film of paper (or glossy stuff?) on top of the toner, but it looks similar to what I had after all the effort of soaking and rubbing before. I haven't etched this yet to see how it does -- I was just using part of an old pcb layout. I'm wanting to try again with some test patterns, seeing how well I can do fine lines and spacing, and whether the peel-off-immediately technique will work consistently.

None of the above may be helpful to you if the main problem is how much toner you're getting onto the paper. OTOH, if you're printing to matte paper, I wonder if it is more a problem with getting it transferred to the pcb. OTOH (let's see ... we're up to three hands now!) it sounds like you may be getting the results I've gotten with the glossy paper -- a thin residue of paper left behind, even after soaking and rubbing. If so, try etching -- hopefully your experience will be like mine, and it will work just fine.

As far as printer drivers go ... I am running Linux (ubuntu), and doing layout with Kicad. One quirk of the Kicad program is that it does not print out a usable layout with the "print" command. Instead, I have to "plot" it to a PostScript file, which then I can print. The print driver is just whatever came up natively on ubuntu's postscript/pdf viewer. It has a tab for "image quality"; I have tried changing it from "Use printer setting" to "Highest quality," but I can't tell any difference, so I'm assuming the printer setting IS at the highest quality. The only other option is "Save toner," which I haven't tried.

I hope something in this long and rambling post has been of help!

Andy

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Howard" <howard_g7lqy@...> wrote:

>
> Hi
> Anyone using this printer for toner transfer ?
> what sort of results do\did you get ?
> 
> I have been having a play about with it, and i can get it to print 
> dark on some paper(has a matt finish), but i think that there is not 
> enough toner going onto the paper(it leaves a milky looking film on
> the pcb after soaking in warm soapy water).
> 
> Is there a printer driver for this printer that can put more toner on
> the paper ?
> 
> Thanks
> Howard
>

Hi Andy
I also am using the HP toner and a laminator (Seimssen &Co - ELM013)

i have been trying some glossy paper from a flyer\mag from Rapid
electronics, it works
but i find that it also transferred the print from the page !!, and if you
have some place without
copper tracks it prints the words from the paper and then when etch is done,
you have lines of
text still on the pcb in copper !!, maybe i am passing the board through the
laminator to much
(about 10 to 20 times), then i soak the pcb for about 5 to 10 mins.

Right now some questions.
1) what prep, if any do you do to the pcb
2) how many times do you pass through the  laminator.
3) how long do you soak the pcb in hot water, i put a bit of washing up
liquid in.
4) i am also running Linux on my main pc, can you give me a link for a
driver\software.

I am off down to pcworld to see if i can get some laser glossy paper to try.

Regards
Howard




2009/11/29 awakephd <a_wake@...>

>
>
> Howard, I am using an HP P2015dn -- almost the same model, but has a
> network interface. Presumably the engine is the same.
>
> Using the HP toner, I have gotten good results doing TT. I've only done
> three boards, plus some testing, but all of them have worked pretty well.
>
> I did the first two boards printing onto thin glossy paper from a catalog.
> This worked very well for transfer, but it was hard to see the pattern -- a
> problem since I was trying to do a double-sided board. The paper came free
> pretty easily after soaking in hot water.
>
> I did the third board using HP color laser glossy paper, which had been
> recommended here. The transfer turned out very well ... but getting the
> paper free was a bear. I soaked and soaked, and rubbed and rubbed ... I
> never did get all the paper completely off of the places where the toner
> was, but it was all off the copper, so I etched, and it turned out very
> well.
>
> All of the above were done using a household iron, turned up to max, with a
> sheet of plain paper between the iron and the tt paper/pcb. I have recently
> acquired a very nice laminator, and have run a sample of PCB through just to
> see how it worked. The answer is, it worked very well ... with an unexpected
> result. I was able to peel away the glossy paper immediately after the last
> pass through the laminator, and all the toner stayed adhered. There is still
> a thin film of paper (or glossy stuff?) on top of the toner, but it looks
> similar to what I had after all the effort of soaking and rubbing before. I
> haven't etched this yet to see how it does -- I was just using part of an
> old pcb layout. I'm wanting to try again with some test patterns, seeing how
> well I can do fine lines and spacing, and whether the peel-off-immediately
> technique will work consistently.
>
> None of the above may be helpful to you if the main problem is how much
> toner you're getting onto the paper. OTOH, if you're printing to matte
> paper, I wonder if it is more a problem with getting it transferred to the
> pcb. OTOH (let's see ... we're up to three hands now!) it sounds like you
> may be getting the results I've gotten with the glossy paper -- a thin
> residue of paper left behind, even after soaking and rubbing. If so, try
> etching -- hopefully your experience will be like mine, and it will work
> just fine.
>
> As far as printer drivers go ... I am running Linux (ubuntu), and doing
> layout with Kicad. One quirk of the Kicad program is that it does not print
> out a usable layout with the "print" command. Instead, I have to "plot" it
> to a PostScript file, which then I can print. The print driver is just
> whatever came up natively on ubuntu's postscript/pdf viewer. It has a tab
> for "image quality"; I have tried changing it from "Use printer setting" to
> "Highest quality," but I can't tell any difference, so I'm assuming the
> printer setting IS at the highest quality. The only other option is "Save
> toner," which I haven't tried.
>
> I hope something in this long and rambling post has been of help!
>
> Andy
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "Howard" <howard_g7lqy@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi
> > Anyone using this printer for toner transfer ?
> > what sort of results do\did you get ?
> >
> > I have been having a play about with it, and i can get it to print
> > dark on some paper(has a matt finish), but i think that there is not
> > enough toner going onto the paper(it leaves a milky looking film on
> > the pcb after soaking in warm soapy water).
> >
> > Is there a printer driver for this printer that can put more toner on
> > the paper ?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Howard
> >
>
>  
>



-- 
73's Howard G7LQY
GQRP: 12549
Loc: IO83UO
LARGE FILES TO: hjpayneg7@...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

It's probably best to try some inkjet paper too. Most people seem to
have best results with inkjet paper.

ST

On Sun, Nov 29, 2009 at 11:54 AM, Howard Payne <howard_g7lqy@...> wrote:

> I am off down to pcworld to see if i can get some laser glossy paper to try.
>
> Regards
> Howard
>

Hi Stefan Trethan 

  You wrote:-

  >It's probably best to try some inkjet paper too. Most people seem to have best results with inkjet paper.

  Do you think that this maybe due to the fact that the paper is better "sealed" to stop the ink soaking in like a sponge and letting the characters therefore becoming less clear?
  If true, then the better a paper is "sealed" (probably not the best word!), the better the transfer to the PCB I would imagine......

  I wonder if a paper laquer (there are some around in spray cans from stationers to stop prints changing color too quickly or absorbing water) might be tried by someone, to see if that gives an even better effect.....

  Has anyone tried inkjet foils? Or laser foils? They are plastic, theoretically they might "give up" their toner even better........apologies to everyone if this has already been tried out....

  Thats my 2 cents worth....

  Regards

  Andy 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

There seem to be a number of coatings for inkjet paper, one is more or
less simple clay. This is found on matte type paper, and also on
magazine paper (where the gloss seems to come from the ink at times
rather than the paper). Clay paper comes off relatively easily with
water, but leave a white residue. Also the paper, since it is matte,
and because of the nature of the clay, leaves a slightly rough surface
leading to a slightly uneven transfer (in thickness).

The glossy type coating seems to come in at least two varieties, one
very much like plastic that will melt onto the PCB and not come off
the copper. That one is useless. The other type (maybe gelatin, maybe
not) still adheres much better than the clay type but will come off
with enough effort. The advantage of the glossy paper is that the
surface is flat, and makes a very nice transfer.

Obviously paper without any coating produces very poor results,
because the toner soaks in between the fibers and becomes inseparable.

Personally, I use a glossy paper now, after the matte type. I can only
recommend you buy a number of different papers until you find one that
works very well. Ideally you'd have some other application for the
useless ones. Alternatively or additionally you can also check out the
groups database section to see what worked for other people.

Maybe it's just that there are more inkjet photo papers compared to laser?

ST

On Sun, Nov 29, 2009 at 2:04 PM, Andrew Mathison
<andrewdavid.mathison@...> wrote:

>  Hi Stefan Trethan
>
>  You wrote:-
>
>  >It's probably best to try some inkjet paper too. Most people seem to have best results with inkjet paper.
>
>  Do you think that this maybe due to the fact that the paper is better "sealed" to stop the ink soaking in like a sponge and letting the characters therefore becoming less clear?
>  If true, then the better a paper is "sealed" (probably not the best word!), the better the transfer to the PCB I would imagine......
>
>  I wonder if a paper laquer (there are some around in spray cans from stationers to stop prints changing color too quickly or absorbing water) might be tried by someone, to see if that gives an even better effect.....
>
>  Has anyone tried inkjet foils? Or laser foils? They are plastic, theoretically they might "give up" their toner even better........apologies to everyone if this has already been tried out....
>
>  Thats my 2 cents worth....
>
>  Regards
>
>  Andy
>

Howard,

I also got some ink from the catalog paper onto the copper when I used that -- but it didn't seem to interfere with the etching. To answer your questions:

1) I clean the blank pcb with soap, water, and scotchbrite; then clean again with acetone.

2) I am still experimenting with the laminator, so I don't have a recommendation on number of passes. My laminator allows setting the temperature and the speed at which it feeds through, so there are a number of variables to play with!

3) When I used catalog paper, I think I soaked it for 20-30 minutes at the very most. When I used the glossy, I soaked it for 2-3 hours altogether, trying to get it loose!! But as I said before, in the little bit of experimenting I've done with the laminator, I was able to peel the paper off immediately after the final pass through the laminator -- no soaking at all! It remains to be seen whether I can duplicate that result without losing traces ...

4) I did not download a driver for the HP, or at least not manually -- it apparently is included with my distro (currently ubuntu 9.10, but it has been included at least from 8.04, which is what I started with). My distro also automatically recognized my old HP PSC-750 all-in-one inkjet. However, I have had to download a driver for a networked Xerox printer/copier at the office -- as I recall, I just did a google search for ubuntu and the model number and came up with a driver.

As for pcb software, I am running Kicad. It is available both for Windows and for Linux. Here are a couple of links: http://kicad.sourceforge.net/wiki/index.php/Main_Page or http://www.lis.inpg.fr/realise_au_lis/kicad/

Andy

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Howard Payne <howard_g7lqy@...> wrote:

>
> Hi Andy
> I also am using the HP toner and a laminator (Seimssen &Co - ELM013)
> 
> i have been trying some glossy paper from a flyer\mag from Rapid
> electronics, it works
> but i find that it also transferred the print from the page !!, and if you
> have some place without
> copper tracks it prints the words from the paper and then when etch is done,
> you have lines of
> text still on the pcb in copper !!, maybe i am passing the board through the
> laminator to much
> (about 10 to 20 times), then i soak the pcb for about 5 to 10 mins.
> 
> Right now some questions.
> 1) what prep, if any do you do to the pcb
> 2) how many times do you pass through the  laminator.
> 3) how long do you soak the pcb in hot water, i put a bit of washing up
> liquid in.
> 4) i am also running Linux on my main pc, can you give me a link for a
> driver\software.
> 
> I am off down to pcworld to see if i can get some laser glossy paper to try.
> 
> Regards
> Howard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2009/11/29 awakephd <a_wake@...>
> 
> >
> >
> > Howard, I am using an HP P2015dn -- almost the same model, but has a
> > network interface. Presumably the engine is the same.
> >
> > Using the HP toner, I have gotten good results doing TT. I've only done
> > three boards, plus some testing, but all of them have worked pretty well.
> >
> > I did the first two boards printing onto thin glossy paper from a catalog.
> > This worked very well for transfer, but it was hard to see the pattern -- a
> > problem since I was trying to do a double-sided board. The paper came free
> > pretty easily after soaking in hot water.
> >
> > I did the third board using HP color laser glossy paper, which had been
> > recommended here. The transfer turned out very well ... but getting the
> > paper free was a bear. I soaked and soaked, and rubbed and rubbed ... I
> > never did get all the paper completely off of the places where the toner
> > was, but it was all off the copper, so I etched, and it turned out very
> > well.
> >
> > All of the above were done using a household iron, turned up to max, with a
> > sheet of plain paper between the iron and the tt paper/pcb. I have recently
> > acquired a very nice laminator, and have run a sample of PCB through just to
> > see how it worked. The answer is, it worked very well ... with an unexpected
> > result. I was able to peel away the glossy paper immediately after the last
> > pass through the laminator, and all the toner stayed adhered. There is still
> > a thin film of paper (or glossy stuff?) on top of the toner, but it looks
> > similar to what I had after all the effort of soaking and rubbing before. I
> > haven't etched this yet to see how it does -- I was just using part of an
> > old pcb layout. I'm wanting to try again with some test patterns, seeing how
> > well I can do fine lines and spacing, and whether the peel-off-immediately
> > technique will work consistently.
> >
> > None of the above may be helpful to you if the main problem is how much
> > toner you're getting onto the paper. OTOH, if you're printing to matte
> > paper, I wonder if it is more a problem with getting it transferred to the
> > pcb. OTOH (let's see ... we're up to three hands now!) it sounds like you
> > may be getting the results I've gotten with the glossy paper -- a thin
> > residue of paper left behind, even after soaking and rubbing. If so, try
> > etching -- hopefully your experience will be like mine, and it will work
> > just fine.
> >
> > As far as printer drivers go ... I am running Linux (ubuntu), and doing
> > layout with Kicad. One quirk of the Kicad program is that it does not print
> > out a usable layout with the "print" command. Instead, I have to "plot" it
> > to a PostScript file, which then I can print. The print driver is just
> > whatever came up natively on ubuntu's postscript/pdf viewer. It has a tab
> > for "image quality"; I have tried changing it from "Use printer setting" to
> > "Highest quality," but I can't tell any difference, so I'm assuming the
> > printer setting IS at the highest quality. The only other option is "Save
> > toner," which I haven't tried.
> >
> > I hope something in this long and rambling post has been of help!
> >
> > Andy
> >
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@...m <Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > "Howard" <howard_g7lqy@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi
> > > Anyone using this printer for toner transfer ?
> > > what sort of results do\did you get ?
> > >
> > > I have been having a play about with it, and i can get it to print
> > > dark on some paper(has a matt finish), but i think that there is not
> > > enough toner going onto the paper(it leaves a milky looking film on
> > > the pcb after soaking in warm soapy water).
> > >
> > > Is there a printer driver for this printer that can put more toner on
> > > the paper ?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > Howard
> > >
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> 73's Howard G7LQY
> GQRP: 12549
> Loc: IO83UO
> LARGE FILES TO: hjpayneg7@...
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I've been getting pretty good results lately with the last several 
boards I did (10 mil traces, 10 mil spaces between lines), so I guess 
I'll share my methods in case anyone wants to try them.

First, cleaning the board is critical.  It has to be evenly clean and 
there can NOT be any scratches in the surface of the copper.  I'm not 
talking about "tooth" to the copper, but actual scratches that you can 
see with your eye.  These larger scratches will not take any toner, so 
there will be a very fine break in your lines if a scratch crosses a 
line.  My cleaning method gets it perfectly clean and makes any large 
scratch very visible before transfer:

1) I clean the board with hot water, Comet (or Ajax) kitchen cleaning 
powder and a gray 3M scrubbing pad.  Use a VERY generous amount of Comet 
(I shoot for almost a slurry in the pad) on the pad and board and do the 
normal scrub up, down and around in circles.  The Comet and Ajax has a 
very fine abrasive in the powder that really helps to scrub that board.

2) GET THE EDGES.  Any time I had issues before, it was almost always 
near an edge or a corner.  It is harder to get them perfectly clean, so 
spend a bit of extra time on those spots to make sure they are clean.

3) Rinse the board in hot water and check for any large scratches.  At 
this point, it will be covered with tiny scratches caused by the scrub 
pad, but very deep scratches will still stand out.  If you have any, 
scrub some more until they are blended in with the rest of the board 
(aka: you can't see them!)

4) (this is where I differ from anyone else I have read about) Sand the 
board with soap and warm water with 2000 grit 3M automotive sandpaper 
and a small sanding block.  This paper almost polishes the copper and 
gets it very flat.  "Almost" is the key.  The surface looks like a 
copper mirror (you can see the fiberglass weave in it), but there is 
still a very fine "haze" of microfine scratches covering the board.  
Frankly, this is part of the same procedure I used to color sand some 
defects out of my car's paint.  That's also why I had the supplies 
laying around and decided to try it the last time I had a crappy 
transfer because the board still wasn't perfectly clean.

5) Rinse the board in hot water and check for large scratches.  If you 
find any, go back over it with the paper a few more times to polish them 
out.  Don't just ignore them or you will be trying to track down an open 
in some small trace that you just can't see once the board is etched.

6) If you are happy with the board, give it a final wipe down with 
denatured alcohol  right before you do your toner transfer.  Acetone 
works as well, but I find the denatured alcohol to be much easier on my 
hands and nose (yes, I'm usually too lazy to go get my heavy chemical 
gloves when I am "only" using a small amount of acetone...)

When I switched to this method of board prep (prior I was using soap, 
water and scrub pad), the quality of the etched board went WAY up.  I 
believe it is because the board has a smoother, flatter surface for the 
toner to transfer to, so the tone transfers more consistently across the 
board.  The 2000 grit paper still leaves enough tooth for the toner to 
grip well, but it is small enough that it doesn't impact even the 
smallest feature of the circuit pattern.  Also, not that I specified 3M 
automotive paper and not just anything that is available.  The higher 
quality papers have a VERY consistent girt size which leaves a very 
consistent scratch pattern.  Cheaper paper may say 2000 grit, but that 
is only an average.   They will have stuff larger and smaller than that 
and those larger scratches can come back and bite you.

The other change I made that improve my boards (but not as dramatic as 
the cleaning procedure) was to start using a GRC laminator.  Mine was 
modified with the temperature controller, so I can run it much hotter 
than normal.  I could do a pretty good job with an iron, but the 
laminator is more consistent and a lot easier (Feed board.  Rotate.  
Repeat 10 times).

Paper wise, I have tried a few different materials.  My normal go to 
paper is the Staples photo gloss paper.  After trying it, I bought a 100 
sheet pack, so I am good for a while.

I have also tried the ink jet transparency (the coating used to allow 
the ink to stick also allows the toner to cleanly transfer from the 
plastic to the board) with good results.  The transparency works very 
well with double sided boards as it is simple to get both sides very 
accurately registered to each other before inserting the board.

I also tried the Avery name tag labels.  This method is a bit different 
as you peal the label off BEFORE to print it.  This puts the toner on 
the waxy backing paper instead of on the label which helps it release 
onto the board.

All in all, before I started my current board cleaning method, I felt 
like I was getting better transfers from the transparency and the Avery 
labels, but I also thought I was getting better details from the Staples 
photo paper.  In the end, I generally ended up using the paper and 
occasionally had to re clean the board and redo it when a piece of toner 
didn't transfer correctly (usually around the edges or corners).  Since 
I changed my cleaning method, I have not had one single failure from the 
Staples paper.

The only "down side" to this method is the paper does NOT want to come 
off the board!  It has to be soaked, pealed, soaked some more, scrubbed, 
soaked, scrubbed some more, etc to get all the paper off the copper.  
Which is actually good because that means the toner is REALLY stuck to 
the copper and won't let go.  I've found a standard bathroom hand towel 
works for the scrubbing as it is abrasive enough to work the paper 
residue off without tearing up the toner.  And it REALLY saves my thumb 
a LOT of abuse.  Just keep the corner of the towel you are using wet and 
the board wet and rinse the paper residue out of the towel often.

Oh, and you don't have to get all the paper residue off the toner.  Only 
the bare metal needs to be completely clear.  That paper residue WILL 
come off when you hit it with acetone after the board is etched.  I 
still try to get most of it off anyway, just because...

Good luck.

Clint

On 11/29/2009 7:49 PM, awakephd wrote:
>
> Howard,
>
> I also got some ink from the catalog paper onto the copper when I used 
> that -- but it didn't seem to interfere with the etching. To answer 
> your questions:
>
> 1) I clean the blank pcb with soap, water, and scotchbrite; then clean 
> again with acetone.
>
> 2) I am still experimenting with the laminator, so I don't have a 
> recommendation on number of passes. My laminator allows setting the 
> temperature and the speed at which it feeds through, so there are a 
> number of variables to play with!
>
> 3) When I used catalog paper, I think I soaked it for 20-30 minutes at 
> the very most. When I used the glossy, I soaked it for 2-3 hours 
> altogether, trying to get it loose!! But as I said before, in the 
> little bit of experimenting I've done with the laminator, I was able 
> to peel the paper off immediately after the final pass through the 
> laminator -- no soaking at all! It remains to be seen whether I can 
> duplicate that result without losing traces ...
>
> 4) I did not download a driver for the HP, or at least not manually -- 
> it apparently is included with my distro (currently ubuntu 9.10, but 
> it has been included at least from 8.04, which is what I started 
> with). My distro also automatically recognized my old HP PSC-750 
> all-in-one inkjet. However, I have had to download a driver for a 
> networked Xerox printer/copier at the office -- as I recall, I just 
> did a google search for ubuntu and the model number and came up with a 
> driver.
>
> As for pcb software, I am running Kicad. It is available both for 
> Windows and for Linux. Here are a couple of links: 
> http://kicad.sourceforge.net/wiki/index.php/Main_Page 
> <http://kicad.sourceforge.net/wiki/index.php/Main_Page> or 
> http://www.lis.inpg.fr/realise_au_lis/kicad/ 
> <http://www.lis.inpg.fr/realise_au_lis/kicad/>
>
> Andy
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

What also works very well as an artifical thumb is a piece of foam rubber.

Might cause you a little less trouble later on than rubbing through
the corners of bathroom towels.....

ST

On Mon, Nov 30, 2009 at 5:09 PM, Clint Corbin <clcorbin@...> wrote:
> The only "down side" to this method is the paper does NOT want to come
> off the board!  It has to be soaked, pealed, soaked some more, scrubbed,
> soaked, scrubbed some more, etc to get all the paper off the copper.
> Which is actually good because that means the toner is REALLY stuck to
> the copper and won't let go.  I've found a standard bathroom hand towel
> works for the scrubbing as it is abrasive enough to work the paper
> residue off without tearing up the toner.  And it REALLY saves my thumb
> a LOT of abuse.  Just keep the corner of the towel you are using wet and
> the board wet and rinse the paper residue out of the towel often.

--- On Mon, 11/30/09, Clint Corbin <clcorbin@...> wrote:

From: Clint Corbin <clcorbin@...>
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: HELP: HP 2015D Printer
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, November 30, 2009, 11:09 AM

Try my method of clean copper with a mix of vinegar and salt.


 



  






      

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