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2009-11-09 by packrat0_15
I have a real simple but sort of large board to make. It's basically just some straight 3/8" wide lines to conduct from one point to another. If it was more complex I would do it with toner transfer. Has anyone ever used tape (clear Mylar package tape) for resist? If not the tape what would work? thanks for your answers, Cary
2009-11-09 by Roland F. Harriston
For a simple "quick and dirty" one shot PCB fab, use a waterproof Sharpie pen. Roland F. Harriston packrat0_15 wrote:
> > I have a real simple but sort of large board to make. It's basically > just some straight 3/8" wide lines to conduct from one point to another. > > If it was more complex I would do it with toner transfer. Has anyone > ever used tape (clear Mylar package tape) for resist? > > If not the tape what would work? > > thanks for your answers, Cary > >
2009-11-09 by Stefan Trethan
I've used it to mask the back side which I didn't want etched. The problem is that the etchant gets in along the edges of the tape unless you press them down really really well. Best to try a small piece first to see if your tape/etchant will exhibit the problem or not. Also clean the board beforehand. If all else fails mask negative, spray-paint, and peel the tape away before etching. Did you know some types of veroboards/stripboards are very efficiently milled/cut and not etched? That may be an option for you. ST
On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 9:46 PM, packrat0_15 <c.hhestand@...> wrote: > I have a real simple but sort of large board to make. It's basically just some straight 3/8" wide lines to conduct from one point to another. > > If it was more complex I would do it with toner transfer. Has anyone ever used tape (clear Mylar package tape) for resist? > > If not the tape what would work? > > thanks for your answers, Cary > >
2009-11-09 by leon Heller
----- Original Message -----
From: "packrat0_15" <c.hhestand@...> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 8:46 PM Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] tape for resist? >I have a real simple but sort of large board to make. It's basically just >some straight 3/8" wide lines to conduct from one point to another. > > If it was more complex I would do it with toner transfer. Has anyone ever > used tape (clear Mylar package tape) for resist? > > If not the tape what would work? I've used strips of masking tape. It leaks a bit, but it does the job. Leon
2009-11-09 by kabowers@NorthState.net
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 21:16:08 -0000, you wrote: >----- Original Message ----- >From: "packrat0_15" <c.hhestand@...> >To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> >Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 8:46 PM >Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] tape for resist? > > >>I have a real simple but sort of large board to make. It's basically just >>some straight 3/8" wide lines to conduct from one point to another. >> >> If it was more complex I would do it with toner transfer. Has anyone ever >> used tape (clear Mylar package tape) for resist? >> >> If not the tape what would work? > >I've used strips of masking tape. It leaks a bit, but it does the job. > >Leon > > I've used Scotch "Magic" tape to mask the edges of boards with pretty good luck. As others have said, watch the edges. This extremely thin tape seems to have less edge leakage problems than heavier tapes. Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC
2009-11-09 by JanRwl@AOL.COM
In a message dated 11/9/2009 3:07:47 P.M. Central Standard Time, c.hhestand@... writes: If it was more complex I would do it with toner transfer. Has anyone ever used tape (clear Mylar package tape) for resist?<< Yes! That or Scotch "Magic Tape" (green label) work fine! Clean the copper first. No liquids about! Jan Rowland [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2009-11-09 by Harvey White
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 22:06:19 +0100, you wrote: >I've used it to mask the back side which I didn't want etched. > I run the board through a laminator set to cold. I use "Martha Stewart (tm) brand shelf lining. Remarkably inexpensive, needs pressing down and no heat. Used it to preserve the back of a board that did not need etching. Did have a little leakage, but not much. Harvey
>The problem is that the etchant gets in along the edges of the tape >unless you press them down really really well. > >Best to try a small piece first to see if your tape/etchant will >exhibit the problem or not. Also clean the board beforehand. > >If all else fails mask negative, spray-paint, and peel the tape away >before etching. > >Did you know some types of veroboards/stripboards are very efficiently >milled/cut and not etched? That may be an option for you. > >ST > >On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 9:46 PM, packrat0_15 <c.hhestand@...> wrote: >> I have a real simple but sort of large board to make. It's basically just some straight 3/8" wide lines to conduct from one point to another. >> >> If it was more complex I would do it with toner transfer. \ufffdHas anyone ever used tape (clear Mylar package tape) for resist? >> >> If not the tape what would work? >> >> thanks for your answers, Cary >> >> > > >------------------------------------ > >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > >
2009-11-10 by cary heestand
Thank you all for the great replies! Leakage on the edges won't be a problem. I originally was going to use a "ball shaped burr" in a dremel tool and still might go that way. But then thought about using tape and etching. I didn't know you could use a Sharpie on it's own. I thought that was just for repair of toner transfer. Spray paint will work? For what I have to do that might be the way to go. Then I could just remove the paint where the pads are and leave the rest of paint as a solder mask! Again thank you ALL for helping a newbie with my first board. Even if it isn't a complicated one! Cary > >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: >http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/Homebrew_ PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2009-11-10 by leon Heller
----- Original Message -----
From: "cary heestand" <c.hhestand@...> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 3:47 PM Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] tape for resist? Thank you all for the great replies! Leakage on the edges won't be a problem. I originally was going to use a "ball shaped burr" in a dremel tool and still might go that way. But then thought about using tape and etching. I didn't know you could use a Sharpie on it's own. I thought that was just for repair of toner transfer. Spray paint will work? For what I have to do that might be the way to go. Then I could just remove the paint where the pads are and leave the rest of paint as a solder mask! I used to use cellulose paint as etch resist. Leon
2009-11-10 by Mycroft2152
I'm just catching up on my email, been in the hospital for 3 weeks. Another possibility to cover large areas or even use as a resist (cutting out the traces with a knife blade) is "Contac" shelf liner. Myc --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, cary heestand <c.hhestand@...> wrote:
> > Thank you all for the great replies! >  > Leakage on the edges won't be a problem. >  > I originally was going to use a "ball shaped burr" in a dremel tool and still might go that way. But then thought about using tape and etching. >  > I didn't know you could use a Sharpie on it's own. I thought that was just for repair of toner transfer. >  > Spray paint will work? For what I have to do that might be the way to go. Then I could just remove the paint where the pads are and leave the rest of paint as a solder mask! >  > Again thank you ALL for helping a newbie with my first board. Even if it isn't a complicated one! >  > Cary > > > >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: > >http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/Homebrew_ PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >
2009-11-10 by Kerry Wentworth
I like to use blue layout fluid, like machinists use. Makes a very thin coat, removes easily with acetone or methyl alcohol, and stands up to temperature. Kerry leon Heller wrote:
> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "cary heestand" <c.hhestand@...> > To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 3:47 PM > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] tape for resist? > > > Thank you all for the great replies! > > Leakage on the edges won't be a problem. > > I originally was going to use a "ball shaped burr" in a dremel tool and > still might go that way. But then thought about using tape and etching. > > I didn't know you could use a Sharpie on it's own. I thought that was just > for repair of toner transfer. > > Spray paint will work? For what I have to do that might be the way to go. > Then I could just remove the paint where the pads are and leave the rest of > paint as a solder mask! > > I used to use cellulose paint as etch resist. > > Leon > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > > > >
2009-11-10 by awakephd
Hi, Cary, Welcome to Homebrew_PCBs! Are you planning to make a board for an EDM controller? I keep wanting to update my design and put it on a pcb, but just haven't had time yet. Speaking of time -- honestly, I think toner transfer would still be easier and quicker than messing with tape, etc. If you were wanting to block a large area, then the tape/contact paper/etc. would be great. But if you are wanting to make traces -- even straight, fat traces -- I think trying to get the tape cut and laid out would be a pain. Meanwhile, toner transfer is really very easy. The only thing that would be easier than toner transfer would be the Sharpie pen, or similar resist pen -- just draw your traces with a ruler, or freehand if you don't need them to be straight. Whichever way you decide to go, good luck. Ask back as you have questions! Andy --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, cary heestand <c.hhestand@...> wrote:
> > Thank you all for the great replies! >  > Leakage on the edges won't be a problem. >  > I originally was going to use a "ball shaped burr" in a dremel tool and still might go that way. But then thought about using tape and etching. >  > I didn't know you could use a Sharpie on it's own. I thought that was just for repair of toner transfer. >  > Spray paint will work? For what I have to do that might be the way to go. Then I could just remove the paint where the pads are and leave the rest of paint as a solder mask! >  > Again thank you ALL for helping a newbie with my first board. Even if it isn't a complicated one! >  > Cary > > > >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: > >http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/Homebrew_ PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >
2009-11-11 by Bob Butcher
I have used electrical tape, Kapton tape, and packaging tape as an etch resist at various times, with moderate success. Often the etchant leaks under the tape edges, so fine lines disappear in spots, but with wide enough traces it is not bad. Spray paint works well if you have a good way to remove it where you want to etch. I had access to a laser system at work a few years ago, and it was great for removing paint. Paint is not very good solder resist however, it tends to melt when you solder. One technique I have used with paint is to just etch narrow lines between "islands" of copper (all pads on one net are an island). I saved my Protel PCB as a DXF file and imported it into Autocad. Then I draw straight lines between islands on a separate layer for each side of the PCB. I print the line layers only (one side gets mirrored first), and tape to the PCB. I then use an exacto knife or sharp scribe to scratch the paint off along the lines, and drop into etchant. The amount of copper removed is almost zero, so the etchant lasts for many boards. This is a lot of work, and results vary, but for a simple board it is OK. To be honest, if your time is worth anything and you have PCB layout software that creates Gerber files, you are far ahead to send them out to be fabricated. I usually use PCB Express (aka Sunstone Circuits). Top quality work, fast turn, and you get plated thru holes, solder mask, and silk screened legend. I haven't used them for a couple of years, but I used to lay out several different designs on one large panel, and order minimum quantity of panels. I could get a lot of boards for under $100. Bob --- On Tue, 11/10/09, leon Heller <leon355@...> wrote:
From: leon Heller <leon355@...>
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] tape for resist?
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, November 10, 2009, 9:12 AM
----- Original Message -----
From: "cary heestand" <c.hhestand@att. net>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 3:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] tape for resist?
Thank you all for the great replies!
Leakage on the edges won't be a problem.
I originally was going to use a "ball shaped burr" in a dremel tool and
still might go that way. But then thought about using tape and etching.
I didn't know you could use a Sharpie on it's own. I thought that was just
for repair of toner transfer.
Spray paint will work? For what I have to do that might be the way to go.
Then I could just remove the paint where the pads are and leave the rest of
paint as a solder mask!
I used to use cellulose paint as etch resist.
Leon
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]2009-11-11 by cary heestand
Hi Andy, I've been a lurker here a long time! Just now having some questions and getting around to actually doing something with my circuit. Yeah the board I was asking about is for the "switching and Capacitor Bank" for my Pulsed EDM. The control circuits will be on a strip board for now, in case I have to make any changes. (but of course it will be perfect the first time ;-) ) Cary --- On Tue, 11/10/09, awakephd <a_wake@...> wrote:
From: awakephd <a_wake@...> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: tape for resist? To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, November 10, 2009, 5:02 PM Hi, Cary, Welcome to Homebrew_PCBs! Are you planning to make a board for an EDM controller? I keep wanting to update my design and put it on a pcb, but just haven't had time yet. Speaking of time -- honestly, I think toner transfer would still be easier and quicker than messing with tape, etc. If you were wanting to block a large area, then the tape/contact paper/etc. would be great. But if you are wanting to make traces -- even straight, fat traces -- I think trying to get the tape cut and laid out would be a pain. Meanwhile, toner transfer is really very easy. The only thing that would be easier than toner transfer would be the Sharpie pen, or similar resist pen -- just draw your traces with a ruler, or freehand if you don't need them to be straight. Whichever way you decide to go, good luck. Ask back as you have questions! Andy --- In Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com, cary heestand <c.hhestand@ ...> wrote: > > Thank you all for the great replies! >  > Leakage on the edges won't be a problem. >  > I originally was going to use a "ball shaped burr" in a dremel tool and still might go that way. But then thought about using tape and etching. >  > I didn't know you could use a Sharpie on it's own. I thought that was just for repair of toner transfer. >  > Spray paint will work? For what I have to do that might be the way to go. Then I could just remove the paint where the pads are and leave the rest of paint as a solder mask! >  > Again thank you ALL for helping a newbie with my first board. Even if it isn't a complicated one! >  > Cary > > > >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: > >http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/Homebrew_ PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]