Yahoo Groups archive

Homebrew PCBs

Index last updated: 2026-04-03 01:13 UTC

Thread

Solder pot tinning and etch resist

Solder pot tinning and etch resist

2008-07-24 by Mike Young

I'm wondering about the practicality of tinning bare copper on PCBs by dipping into a solder pot. If the board is masked with a negative image, the tinning can also form the the resist for etching. My interest is two-fold. Tinning would protect the copper, and the negative image would place toner transfer pinholes and defects into the etch area. My hope is that they can be either undercut and dissolved during etching, or simply left in place or wirebrushed away. I don't have a solder pot to experiment with, and was about to purchase a small one to strip and tin enamel leads. Larger pots, suitable for dipping small PCBs, cost not much more. I was wondering if it would be worth the added expense.

Thanks.
Mike.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist

2008-07-24 by Stefan Trethan

I'm not sure straight dipping will work very well. Typically one would
need to blow off the excess tin with hot air.

Also, obviously you'd need to use some soldermask material for the
mask, not straight toner, since that would simply melt.

ST
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Thu, Jul 24, 2008 at 3:59 PM, Mike Young <mikewhy@...> wrote:
> I'm wondering about the practicality of tinning bare copper on PCBs by dipping into a solder pot. If the board is masked with a negative image, the tinning can also form the the resist for etching. My interest is two-fold. Tinning would protect the copper, and the negative image would place toner transfer pinholes and defects into the etch area. My hope is that they can be either undercut and dissolved during etching, or simply left in place or wirebrushed away. I don't have a solder pot to experiment with, and was about to purchase a small one to strip and tin enamel leads. Larger pots, suitable for dipping small PCBs, cost not much more. I was wondering if it would be worth the added expense.
>
> Thanks.
> Mike.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist

2008-07-24 by Mike Young

I have hot air to spare. If not enough, a small heat gun or embossing tool 
might do it.

I hadn't thought about the toner melting off at solder temperature (250^C?). 
I read from your articles that MISPRO would also cure at that temperature. 
There was no mention of how the cured ink is cleaned after etching. Do you 
leave that in place?

----- Original Message -----
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: "Stefan Trethan" <stefan_trethan@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 9:01 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist


> I'm not sure straight dipping will work very well. Typically one would
> need to blow off the excess tin with hot air.
>
> Also, obviously you'd need to use some soldermask material for the
> mask, not straight toner, since that would simply melt.
>
> ST
>
> On Thu, Jul 24, 2008 at 3:59 PM, Mike Young <mikewhy@...> wrote:
>> I'm wondering about the practicality of tinning bare copper on PCBs by 
>> dipping into a solder pot. If the board is masked with a negative image, 
>> the tinning can also form the the resist for etching.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist

2008-07-24 by Stefan Trethan

It needs to be a powerful hot air blade, as far as i know. I don't
think a hot air gun would be nearly enough.

Of course the toner will melt at soldering temperature, the question
is how fast.

Cured MISPRO ink is tough as nails. No easy way to get that off.

ST
Show quoted textHide quoted text
On Thu, Jul 24, 2008 at 4:15 PM, Mike Young <mikewhy@...> wrote:
> I have hot air to spare. If not enough, a small heat gun or embossing tool
> might do it.
>
> I hadn't thought about the toner melting off at solder temperature (250^C?).
> I read from your articles that MISPRO would also cure at that temperature.
> There was no mention of how the cured ink is cleaned after etching. Do you
> leave that in place?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stefan Trethan" <stefan_trethan@...>
> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 9:01 AM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist
>
>
>> I'm not sure straight dipping will work very well. Typically one would
>> need to blow off the excess tin with hot air.
>>
>> Also, obviously you'd need to use some soldermask material for the
>> mask, not straight toner, since that would simply melt.
>>
>> ST
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 24, 2008 at 3:59 PM, Mike Young <mikewhy@...> wrote:
>>> I'm wondering about the practicality of tinning bare copper on PCBs by
>>> dipping into a solder pot. If the board is masked with a negative image,
>>> the tinning can also form the the resist for etching.
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist

2008-07-24 by KeepIt SimpleStupid

Hey Mike:

Have you tried heating the board in peanut oil.  It's not the best stuff, but it works.  With the old lead tin stuff, I was able to:

1: Heat the board
2. Pull it out and add some solder to the traces
3. Dip back in and use a damp rag to spread

The boards come out oily, but very nice.

\Where to go:

1. Use something other than peanut oil
2. experiment with two baths; flux
3. Prep board (vinegar and salt); add flux; heat board; dip board; wipe board
4. Lead free solder

Better than tin any day.
Show quoted textHide quoted text
----- Original Message ----
From: Mike Young <mikewhy@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 9:59:05 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist


I'm wondering about the practicality of tinning bare copper on PCBs by dipping into a solder pot. If the board is masked with a negative image, the tinning can also form the the resist for etching. My interest is two-fold. Tinning would protect the copper, and the negative image would place toner transfer pinholes and defects into the etch area. My hope is that they can be either undercut and dissolved during etching, or simply left in place or wirebrushed away. I don't have a solder pot to experiment with, and was about to purchase a small one to strip and tin enamel leads. Larger pots, suitable for dipping small PCBs, cost not much more. I was wondering if it would be worth the added expense.

Thanks.
Mike.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 


      

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist

2008-07-24 by KeepIt SimpleStupid

Hey Mike:

Have you tried heating the board in peanut oil.  It's not the best stuff, but it works.  With the old lead tin stuff, I was able to:

1: Heat the board
2. Pull it out and add some solder to the traces
3. Dip back in and use a damp rag to spread

The boards come out oily, but very nice.

\Where to go:

1. Use something other than peanut oil
2. experiment with two baths; flux
3. Prep board (vinegar and salt); add flux; heat board; dip board; wipe board
4. Lead free solder

Better than tin any day.
Show quoted textHide quoted text
----- Original Message ----
From: Mike Young <mikewhy@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 9:59:05 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist


I'm wondering about the practicality of tinning bare copper on PCBs by dipping into a solder pot. If the board is masked with a negative image, the tinning can also form the the resist for etching. My interest is two-fold. Tinning would protect the copper, and the negative image would place toner transfer pinholes and defects into the etch area. My hope is that they can be either undercut and dissolved during etching, or simply left in place or wirebrushed away. I don't have a solder pot to experiment with, and was about to purchase a small one to strip and tin enamel leads. Larger pots, suitable for dipping small PCBs, cost not much more. I was wondering if it would be worth the added expense.

Thanks.
Mike.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 


      

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist

2008-07-24 by Mike Young

Sounds like we can ash can the solder pot, then.

How do you remove the cured ink to solder? I see cleaned, tinned traces in 
the pictures posted in connection with inkjet resist.

----- Original Message -----
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: "Stefan Trethan" <stefan_trethan@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 9:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist


> It needs to be a powerful hot air blade, as far as i know. I don't
> think a hot air gun would be nearly enough.
>
> Of course the toner will melt at soldering temperature, the question
> is how fast.
>
> Cured MISPRO ink is tough as nails. No easy way to get that off.
>
> ST
>
> On Thu, Jul 24, 2008 at 4:15 PM, Mike Young <mikewhy@...> wrote:
>> I have hot air to spare. If not enough, a small heat gun or embossing 
>> tool
>> might do it.
>>
>> I hadn't thought about the toner melting off at solder temperature 
>> (250^C?).
>> I read from your articles that MISPRO would also cure at that 
>> temperature.
>> There was no mention of how the cured ink is cleaned after etching. Do 
>> you
>> leave that in place?
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Stefan Trethan" <stefan_trethan@...>
>> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 9:01 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist
>>
>>
>>> I'm not sure straight dipping will work very well. Typically one would
>>> need to blow off the excess tin with hot air.
>>>
>>> Also, obviously you'd need to use some soldermask material for the
>>> mask, not straight toner, since that would simply melt.
>>>
>>> ST
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jul 24, 2008 at 3:59 PM, Mike Young <mikewhy@...> 
>>> wrote:
>>>> I'm wondering about the practicality of tinning bare copper on PCBs by
>>>> dipping into a solder pot. If the board is masked with a negative 
>>>> image,
>>>> the tinning can also form the the resist for etching.
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and 
>> Photos:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and 
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist

2008-07-24 by Mike Young

I assume you're serious about the foodstuffs. (And why not? I reflow in a 
wok. Oil-free of course.)

So, I could just dip the board in a solder pot, and then wipe it with a damp 
rag (or blow it off with hot air). For that matter, the solder pot can be an 
old pan.

I don't follow you on the second part. Vinegar and salt?

My initial interest was to use the tinning as an etch resist. Come to think 
of it, electroplating tin could be about the same cost as a suitably sized 
solder pot. Since heat isn't involved, it could work with both inkjet and 
toner. I think I'll have a tink on that for a bit...

----- Original Message -----
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: "KeepIt SimpleStupid" <keepitsimplestupid@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 9:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist


> Hey Mike:
>
> Have you tried heating the board in peanut oil.  It's not the best stuff, 
> but it works.  With the old lead tin stuff, I was able to:
>
> 1: Heat the board
> 2. Pull it out and add some solder to the traces
> 3. Dip back in and use a damp rag to spread
>
> The boards come out oily, but very nice.
>
> \Where to go:
>
> 1. Use something other than peanut oil
> 2. experiment with two baths; flux
> 3. Prep board (vinegar and salt); add flux; heat board; dip board; wipe 
> board
> 4. Lead free solder
>
> Better than tin any day.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Mike Young <mikewhy@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 9:59:05 AM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist
>
>
> I'm wondering about the practicality of tinning bare copper on PCBs by 
> dipping into a solder pot. If the board is masked with a negative image, 
> the tinning can also form the the resist for etching. My interest is 
> two-fold. Tinning would protect the copper, and the negative image would 
> place toner transfer pinholes and defects into the etch area. My hope is 
> that they can be either undercut and dissolved during etching, or simply 
> left in place or wirebrushed away. I don't have a solder pot to experiment 
> with, and was about to purchase a small one to strip and tin enamel leads. 
> Larger pots, suitable for dipping small PCBs, cost not much more. I was 
> wondering if it would be worth the added expense.
>
> Thanks.
> Mike.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and 
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist

2008-07-24 by KeepIt SimpleStupid

I don't follow you on the second part. Vinegar and salt?

Yep, a mix of vinegar and salt will clean the oxide off of a PC board EXTREMELY fast.  The days of hard rubbing are gone.  Try it.


      

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist

2008-07-24 by KeepIt SimpleStupid

So, I could just dip the board in a solder pot, and then wipe it with a damp 
rag (or blow it off with hot air). For that matter, the solder pot can be an 
old pan.

I think so.  The board should be hot first.  It's best that it does not contact the pan, so verticle tanks are best,

You need three things:
1) A clean surface
2) Flux
3) Solder

Preheated flux should work really well + a dip in solder + a wipe + a re-flow


      

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Solder pot tinning and etch resist

2008-07-24 by Stefan Trethan

On 7/24/08, Mike Young <mikewhy@...> wrote:

>  My initial interest was to use the tinning as an etch resist. Come to think
>  of it, electroplating tin could be about the same cost as a suitably sized
>  solder pot. Since heat isn't involved, it could work with both inkjet and
>  toner. I think I'll have a tink on that for a bit...

That's actually done commercially. Sometimes they use gold, tin will
require a compatible etchant that does not etch it away.

It would not have the heat problem either.


ST

Re: Solder pot tinning and etch resist

2008-07-24 by Viper62

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, KeepIt SimpleStupid 
<keepitsimplestupid@...> wrote:
>
> 
> 
> 
> I don't follow you on the second part. Vinegar and salt?
> 
> Yep, a mix of vinegar and salt will clean the oxide off of a PC board 
EXTREMELY fast.  The days of hard rubbing are gone.  Try it.
> 
> 
>       
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Greetings, vinegar and salt you say? how do you mix it?
Do you just dip it and it's deoxed? or do you still need steel wool?

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Solder pot tinning and etch resist

2008-07-24 by KeepIt SimpleStupid

Proportions don't seem to matter much and I don't dip it.  Waste of Vinegar.  I just make up a small amount, say 1/2 to 1 cup. Add some salt (teaspoon maybe) then dip a scotchbrite pad in the mix and use it.  There is very little effort.
Show quoted textHide quoted text
----- Original Message ----
From: Viper62 <viper62pr@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 12:10:59 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Solder pot tinning and etch resist


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@ yahoogroups. com, KeepIt SimpleStupid 
<keepitsimplestupid @...> wrote:
>
> 
> 
> 
> I don't follow you on the second part. Vinegar and salt?
> 
> Yep, a mix of vinegar and salt will clean the oxide off of a PC board 
EXTREMELY fast.  The days of hard rubbing are gone.  Try it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Greetings, vinegar and salt you say? how do you mix it?
Do you just dip it and it's deoxed? or do you still need steel wool?

 


      

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]