>
> I use dry film resist all the time too. Over the years I've pretty much
> perfected applying the film onto PCB material for prototyping. I used
> "wet lamination" method where the film is applied with a film of water
> covering copper. I have to make a PCB tomorrow so I'll take some photos
> to illustrate. There's a few tricks to it.
>
> The advantage with "wet lamination" is it virtually eliminates dust
> entrapment, wrinkling, and trapped air bubbles. I gave up on hot roll
> lamination years ago.
>
> The only problem is sourcing small quantities of the film. Standard pack
> size is a box of 2 rolls, each 500' long (152 meters) and a choice of
> 12" or 18" wide. In Australia, price was something like AU$600 for the
> 12" rolls. I got lucky and was given some from a PCB manufacture some
> 5~6 years ago. It still works like new.
>
> Adam
>
> water Markus Zingg wrote:
> > I regularly - or better said - almost exclusively work with dryfilm
> > resist. The problem with Positiv 20 you mention is that you will have
> > problems with applying an even layer of it let alone the problems with
> > dust in the air that will stick to it etc.
> >
> > Dryfilm resist is haveing a lot of advantages not only for doing PCBs.
> > As an example, also make aluminium housings for my projects this way or
> > solder stencils. There are both kind of resists available (positive and
> > negative) even though the negative ones dominate. You find positive
> ones
> > i.e. marketed as solder stop mask laminate.
> >
> > I'm also using a regular laminator. You may have to take off the
> housing
> > or modify it in order to adapt it to the thikness of PCB boards. Some
> > are better suited than others, but with the sheer amount of products
> its
> > close to impossible to suggest a given product cause it's likely not to
> > be available where you live anyways. I simply bought one, tried it out
> > and it worked, but that was four years ago. I thus figure that this
> > given product is no longer available. If it would not have worked, I
> > simply would have put it on ebay and tried another one. The price is no
> > real argument nor are the published capabilites cause you will use the
> > laminator out of its official specs anyways hence the needed
> experimenting.
> >
> > HTH
> >
> > Markus
> >
> > dkosokar schrieb:
> >> I'm looking for a positive acting photoresist I can apply at home.
> >> I've wanted to try Positiv 20 but can't seem to buy it in the USA. Can
> >> it be had anywhere that you folks know of? Is it a decent resist?
> >>
> >> What are you folks using? Yes, I know there are presensitized boards,
> >> but they are very expensive.
> >>
> >> Does anyone use dry film resist? I have a laminator, and wouldn't mind
> >> using it if this type of resist works well. Does a regular laminator
> >> work to apply this resist?
> >>
> >> I've tried Datak negative acting resist, without much luck, and now my
> >> bottle is so old, I don't trust it any more. Anyone use this stuff
> >> successfully? I prefer pos resist because it's easier to print than
> >> negatives.
> >>
> >> How about radical ideas like Diazo compounds used for silk screening?
> >> Would this stuff have fine enough detail and woul it stand up to
> >> ferric chloride?
> >>
> >> Any input would be greatly appreciated!
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>