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2007-12-03 by Dave
How are you guys doing the silkscreen layer to the component side of the board? I only have a black laser printer. Don't tell me I need to buy a color one too? :) Is that the usual way and does black work ok when using the TT method for this? Thanks, Dave
2007-12-03 by Leon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <theschemer@...> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, December 03, 2007 4:07 PM Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Silkscreen question > How are you guys doing the silkscreen layer to the component side of the > board? I only have a black laser printer. Don't tell me I need to buy a > color one too? :) Is that the usual way and does black work ok when > using the TT method for this? I don't bother with one. Leon
2007-12-03 by DJ Delorie
I don't bother either, but Pulsar has a white film that irons on over black toner to give you a white silkscreen. I suppose you could use the blue press-n-peel the same way. When I do do a silkscreen, I usually just go with black. http://www.delorie.com/pcb/liquidtin/board-silk.html http://www.delorie.com/pcb/liquidtin/
2007-12-03 by Harvey White
On Mon, 03 Dec 2007 10:07:28 -0600, you wrote: >How are you guys doing the silkscreen layer to the component side of the >board? I only have a black laser printer. Don't tell me I need to buy a >color one too? :) Is that the usual way and does black work ok when >using the TT method for this? Two methods, one TT, on not. TT: create the SS layer, then transfer it to the top of the board. Use white film (from Pulsar) and laminate again. Use tape to remove the excess. Instant silk screen layer. Be careful of SMT devices, though. Not: Take a transparency and reverse print it (reverse the image) so that you have to view through the transparency to see the image. Reverse and glue to top of board (or use carpet tape). Drill board. Color can be used. Note that there is no "white" ink jet ink available, and I have never heard of "white" toner... Harvey >Thanks, >Dave
2007-12-03 by Dave
Harvey White wrote: > Two methods, one TT, on not. > TT: create the SS layer, then transfer it to the top of the board. Use > white film (from Pulsar) and laminate again. Use tape to remove the > excess. Instant silk screen layer. Be careful of SMT devices, > though. > > Not: > Take a transparency and reverse print it (reverse the image) so that > you have to view through the transparency to see the image. > > Reverse and glue to top of board (or use carpet tape). Drill board. > > Color can be used. > > Note that there is no "white" ink jet ink available, and I have never > heard of "white" toner... > > Harvey > > >> Thanks, >> Dave >> Sounds good to me. I am using single sided boards so using the TT method will it transfer to the fiberglass or non-copper layer ok? Or is that what plan B is for. :) Thanks, Dave
2007-12-03 by Dave
DJ Delorie wrote: > I don't bother either, but Pulsar has a white film that irons on over > black toner to give you a white silkscreen. I suppose you could use > the blue press-n-peel the same way. > > When I do do a silkscreen, I usually just go with black. > > http://www.delorie.com/pcb/liquidtin/board-silk.html > http://www.delorie.com/pcb/liquidtin/ > > Thanks for the info and links. I need to check into the Pulsar stuff. I have lots to learn yet. :) Dave
2007-12-03 by Mark Brueggemann
I prefer Press'n'Peel to the Pulsar product but the Pulsar TT paper is good for silkscreens. I don't normally do it but sometimes customers request it. The black toner shows up reasonably well on copper and lighter substrates. I clear coat it with spray clear enamel, otherwise it's somewhat fragile to handle. And, you have to be very careful not to get flux remover on it, or it's gone/blurred in a flash. It can look very professional though, since you can put text and graphics on the board. I try to do as much of that in copper as I can (in copper pour or blank space) so that a silkscreen becomes less necessary for assembly/operation. Mark K5LXP Albuquerque, NM
2007-12-03 by DJ Delorie
Dave <theschemer@...> writes: > Sounds good to me. I am using single sided boards so using the TT method > will it transfer to the fiberglass or non-copper layer ok? Or is that It should. In my photos it didn't, but that wasn't fiberglass - it was an old THICK phonelic board, and the laminator just didn't get hot enough to adhere it properly (it started to adhere in some places). There might not have been enough pressure getting through to those narrow places, as that may have been a 2oz board also.
2007-12-03 by Harvey White
On Mon, 03 Dec 2007 13:19:41 -0600, you wrote: Works on both copper and fiberglass, so no problem with the TT stuff. The transparency method was used mostly with single sided boards that were photoexposed and etched. Details at www.dragonworks.info If the top links do not work, then please navigate through the menus and that ought to do the trick. The individual index pages are OK. Harvey
> > >Harvey White wrote: >> Two methods, one TT, on not. >> TT: create the SS layer, then transfer it to the top of the board. Use >> white film (from Pulsar) and laminate again. Use tape to remove the >> excess. Instant silk screen layer. Be careful of SMT devices, >> though. >> >> Not: >> Take a transparency and reverse print it (reverse the image) so that >> you have to view through the transparency to see the image. >> >> Reverse and glue to top of board (or use carpet tape). Drill board. >> >> Color can be used. >> >> Note that there is no "white" ink jet ink available, and I have never >> heard of "white" toner... >> >> Harvey >> >> >>> Thanks, >>> Dave >>> >Sounds good to me. I am using single sided boards so using the TT method >will it transfer to the fiberglass or non-copper layer ok? Or is that >what plan B is for. :) >Thanks, >Dave
2007-12-03 by Dave
Harvey White wrote: > On Mon, 03 Dec 2007 13:19:41 -0600, you wrote: > > Works on both copper and fiberglass, so no problem with the TT stuff. > The transparency method was used mostly with single sided boards that > were photoexposed and etched. > > Details at www.dragonworks.info If the top links do not work, then > please navigate through the menus and that ought to do the trick. The > individual index pages are OK. > > Harvey > > I see. So the transparency cut out and taped is just for more protection to the SS. I guess why I am asking is that I never used transparencies before. Once you use them they are toast correct. One use only? So after you iron on a transparency it is not to be cleaned up and reused? Just asking so I know as I just ordered me an HP 1022 LaserJet. Thanks, Dave
2007-12-03 by Harvey White
On Mon, 03 Dec 2007 14:32:12 -0600, you wrote: OK, the transparency is a single use item. You don't iron it on, because that puts a layer of something (goo) on the board. Of course, there's the glue you use to hold it on, but in that case, you have a choice of what to use. You reverse it so that the printing is on the bottom, and won't be easy to wear away. Goes on the top of the board, of course. You laser print on the back of the transparency, that's the SS layer. You could just as easily go color with transparency film and an ink jet. Harvey
>Harvey White wrote: >> On Mon, 03 Dec 2007 13:19:41 -0600, you wrote: >> >> Works on both copper and fiberglass, so no problem with the TT stuff. >> The transparency method was used mostly with single sided boards that >> were photoexposed and etched. >> >> Details at www.dragonworks.info If the top links do not work, then >> please navigate through the menus and that ought to do the trick. The >> individual index pages are OK. >> >> Harvey >> >> >I see. So the transparency cut out and taped is just for more protection >to the SS. I guess why I am asking is that I never used transparencies >before. Once you use them they are toast correct. One use only? So after >you iron on a transparency it is not to be cleaned up and reused? Just >asking so I know as I just ordered me an HP 1022 LaserJet. >Thanks, >Dave
2007-12-03 by warrenbrayshaw
DJ Delorie wrote: > When I do do a silkscreen, I usually just go with black. > > http://www.delorie.com/pcb/liquidtin/board-silk.html > http://www.delorie.com/pcb/liquidtin/ Nice end result. Can you tell me what solder and defluxer you are using that leaves the toner in such good shape. Many Thanks Warren
2007-12-03 by Anthony Clay
--- Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:
> Note that there is no "white" ink jet ink available,
> and I have never
> heard of "white" toner...
>
I'm planning on converting an epson printer into a
dedicated silkscreener. (Basically, it's a
piezoelectric print head, and a heater for the circuit
board to help the ink distribute.)
Instead of using factory ink, try using heat-curing
ink in the print heads - simply replace RGB
w/whatever, and print "red", "blue", "green" to use
whatever is in the slot. Basically, just get the board
warm/hot, print on it, then heat to "cure" the board.
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Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping2007-12-04 by DJ Delorie
"warrenbrayshaw" <warrenbrayshaw@...> writes: > Can you tell me what solder and defluxer you are using that leaves the > toner in such good shape. For that specific board, it was SYNTech solder paste, no-clean.
2007-12-04 by Myc Holmes
I found the simplest way to create black TT legends is to first give the top side of the pcb a light coating of white Krylon spray paint. Red also looks pretty good. Myc On Dec 3, 2007 6:12 PM, warrenbrayshaw <warrenbrayshaw@...> wrote: > DJ Delorie wrote: > > When I do do a silkscreen, I usually just go with black. > > > > http://www.delorie.com/pcb/liquidtin/board-silk.html > > http://www.delorie.com/pcb/liquidtin/ > > Nice end result. > Can you tell me what solder and defluxer you are using that leaves the > toner in such good shape. > > Many Thanks > Warren > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2007-12-04 by Stefan Trethan
Hi, i use black and it looks great. You need to transfer it without the white paper fuzz or remove that afterward. But then, i'm using PCB stock that is very yellow in color. With the almost transparent FR4 you might have less visibility, but i would expect it to be OK. I found that it does not hold well on the smooth side of single-sided stock. It sticks like crazy to the epoxy where copper was etched away (rough surface). But i have mostly double sided stock anyway. ST
On Dec 3, 2007 5:07 PM, Dave <theschemer@...> wrote: > How are you guys doing the silkscreen layer to the component side of the > board? I only have a black laser printer. Don't tell me I need to buy a > color one too? :) Is that the usual way and does black work ok when > using the TT method for this? > Thanks, > Dave > > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > >
2007-12-04 by Dave
Myc Holmes wrote: > I found the simplest way to create black TT legends is to first give the top > side of the pcb a light coating of white Krylon spray paint. Red also looks > pretty good. > > Myc > > > Good idea. I will try it some time... Thanks, Dave
2007-12-04 by Dave
Harvey White wrote: > On Mon, 03 Dec 2007 14:32:12 -0600, you wrote: > > OK, the transparency is a single use item. You don't iron it on, > because that puts a layer of something (goo) on the board. Of course, > there's the glue you use to hold it on, but in that case, you have a > choice of what to use. You reverse it so that the printing is on the > bottom, and won't be easy to wear away. Goes on the top of the board, > of course. > > You laser print on the back of the transparency, that's the SS layer. > You could just as easily go color with transparency film and an ink > jet. > > > Harvey > > Ok, thanks for clearing that up. I need to buy some transparencies for both ink jet and laser then so I can see which works for me. Dave
2007-12-04 by Dave
Anthony Clay wrote: > --- Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote: > >> Note that there is no "white" ink jet ink available, >> and I have never >> heard of "white" toner... >> >> > > I'm planning on converting an epson printer into a > dedicated silkscreener. (Basically, it's a > piezoelectric print head, and a heater for the circuit > board to help the ink distribute.) > > Instead of using factory ink, try using heat-curing > ink in the print heads - simply replace RGB > w/whatever, and print "red", "blue", "green" to use > whatever is in the slot. Basically, just get the board > warm/hot, print on it, then heat to "cure" the board. > > Let us know how that conversion goes :) Sounds like an interesting project but not one I am ready to tackle right yet. :) Dave
2007-12-04 by Dave
Stefan Trethan wrote: > Hi, > > i use black and it looks great. > You need to transfer it without the white paper fuzz or remove that afterward. > > But then, i'm using PCB stock that is very yellow in color. With the > almost transparent FR4 you might have less visibility, but i would > expect it to be OK. > > I found that it does not hold well on the smooth side of single-sided > stock. It sticks like crazy to the epoxy where copper was etched away > (rough surface). But i have mostly double sided stock anyway. > > ST > I have some old single sided boards I purchased years ago. They have the word "Milacron" on the non-copper side. They are an off-white so black will look good there. I am still getting organized but trying to get off to a good start. Thanks, Dave
2007-12-04 by Harvey White
On Tue, 04 Dec 2007 10:18:01 -0600, you wrote: >Harvey White wrote: >> On Mon, 03 Dec 2007 14:32:12 -0600, you wrote: >> >> OK, the transparency is a single use item. You don't iron it on, >> because that puts a layer of something (goo) on the board. Of course, >> there's the glue you use to hold it on, but in that case, you have a >> choice of what to use. You reverse it so that the printing is on the >> bottom, and won't be easy to wear away. Goes on the top of the board, >> of course. >> >> You laser print on the back of the transparency, that's the SS layer. >> You could just as easily go color with transparency film and an ink >> jet. >> >> >> Harvey >> >> >Ok, thanks for clearing that up. I need to buy some transparencies for >both ink jet and laser then so I can see which works for me. You buy the type of transparency for whatever machine you have, of course. IIRC, if you run an inkjet transparency through a laser printer you face the possibility that the plastic will melt. Harvey >Dave
2007-12-04 by Dave
Harvey White wrote: > You buy the type of transparency for whatever machine you have, of > course. IIRC, if you run an inkjet transparency through a laser > printer you face the possibility that the plastic will melt. > > Harvey > I think they used to warn us of using Ink Jet Glossy Photo paper in a laser printer too as it could ruin it. Has that been proven false or do I need to use laser glossy printer paper in my laser printer? Thanks, Dave