Homebrew PCBs

Went to 3 RS for Ferric chloride all OUT....
Reading old msgs, I finally found that Lowe's had it, a Gal was 7 bucks.
I bought some regular 3% Hydrogen Peroxide. It work well and fast but 
would like any feed-back on the recipe I used.
 1 part (200ml) 31.45% Muriatic Acid, 2 parts (400ml) Peroxide. Color 
was light green, No heat used. Board went in first, pour the 400ml of 
Peroxide on the board and in about 6 minutes it was done (small test 
board) 3x2 inches. I did get a little scared when I measured the 400ml 
of Peroxide in the same plastic cup as there maybe was a drop of the 
Acid still in there and saw smoke/vapors for a second. I noticed that 
during the clean-up with water it turns a nice light blue, natural I 
guess?
Question is the recipe OK? Can it be fine-tuned.
Can it be saved and brought back to life to use again? 

BTW if you can get your hands on the green tape they use at Wal-Mart in 
the Photo Dept to attach leader cards that go through the film 
processor, get some. It will not melt or leave any residue I am sure of 
that as a friend that works there gave me a roll.

izzo47 wrote:
> BTW if you can get your hands on the green tape they use at Wal-Mart in 
> the Photo Dept to attach leader cards that go through the film 
> processor, get some. It will not melt or leave any residue I am sure of 
> that as a friend that works there gave me a roll.

If that's anything like the Fujifilm tape we use on the film processor at 
work, it's a thick-ish blue plastic tape with a silicone-based adhesive on the 
back. Kinda like 3M Kapton tape, but thicker.

-- 
Phil.                         |  (\_/)  This is Bunny. Copy and paste Bunny
ygroups@...         | (='.'=) into your signature to help him gain
http://www.philpem.me.uk/     | (")_(") world domination.

I guess...all I know is if you tape your design to the copper and if 
you use the hot iron method like I do it peels right off. When I 
etched the board, wherever the tape was, was completely gone. I think 
the heat in the film processor is only about 85-90C so I was 
surprised.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Philip Pemberton <ygroups@...> 
wrote:
>
> SNIP < 
> If that's anything like the Fujifilm tape we use on the film 
processor at 
> work, it's a thick-ish blue plastic tape with a silicone-based 
adhesive on the 
> back. Kinda like 3M Kapton tape, but thicker.
> 
> -- 
> Phil.                         |  (\_/)  This is Bunny. Copy and 
paste Bunny

> ygroups@...         | (='.'=) into your signature to help him gain
> http://www.philpem.me.uk/     | (")_(") world domination.
>

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "izzo47" <izzo47@...> wrote:
>
> Went to 3 RS for Ferric chloride all OUT....
> Reading old msgs, I finally found that Lowe's had it, a Gal was 7 
bucks.
> I bought some regular 3% Hydrogen Peroxide. It work well and fast 
but 
> would like any feed-back on the recipe I used.
>  1 part (200ml) 31.45% Muriatic Acid, 2 parts (400ml) Peroxide. 
Color 
> was light green, No heat used. Board went in first, pour the 400ml 
of 
> Peroxide on the board and in about 6 minutes it was done (small 
test 
> board) 3x2 inches. I did get a little scared when I measured the 
400ml 
> of Peroxide in the same plastic cup as there maybe was a drop of 
the 
> Acid still in there and saw smoke/vapors for a second. I noticed 
that 
> during the clean-up with water it turns a nice light blue, natural 
I 
> guess?
> Question is the recipe OK? Can it be fine-tuned.
> Can it be saved and brought back to life to use again? 
> 
> BTW if you can get your hands on the green tape they use at Wal-
Mart in 
> the Photo Dept to attach leader cards that go through the film 
> processor, get some. It will not melt or leave any residue I am 
sure of 
> that as a friend that works there gave me a roll.
>

Blue would seem to indicate the formation of Copper Sulfate crystals.