Homebrew PCBs

I've a combination of Samsung ML-2010 laser printer / Xerox 1910 
laimnator and Sears catalog paper that has been working well for 
Toner transfer, that is until I refilled the toner with a generic 
toner. A new cartidge costs about $80, refills $6, a new printer $60 
after rebates.  The results were pretty spotty.

I tried (again) a number of papers, including the Staples basic photo 
mentioned on the list. Unfortunately, the Staples Basic Photo paper 
actually laminated itself to the pcb and was worthless.

As a last resort, I dug out some "laser foil". Laser foil is 
availible at stationery stores. It is similar to the green stuff that 
is used a protective coating in the press and peel sponge process. I 
attached a small piece to a carrier sheet and printed directly onto 
the back side of the foil.

I then ran the foil, toner side down, through the laminator. After 
cooling, the foil peeled off easily and cleanly. I then etched the 
boards in muriatic acid. H2O2. The traces were very good.

I'll definitely continue with this process.

It is another technique to add to the list.

Myc

Do you have apicture (url would do) for this 'laser foil' so I can print a
picture out and try local stationers, although being UK I dont hold out much
hope.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Lez,

Try

http://www.paperdirect.com/Foil/cid=1852/shop.axd/Category

Laser foil had its heyday just after laser printers came out, but 
before inkjets. It was a cheap way to add color highlights or gold 
lettering to documents. It is still used for the gold lettering on 
certificates. Neat stuff.

Yup, I'm that old :)

Myc



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Lez <lez.briddon@...> wrote:
>
> Do you have apicture (url would do) for this 'laser foil' so I can 
print a
> picture out and try local stationers, although being UK I dont hold 
out much

> hope.
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I used a regular household iron with the Staples Basic Photo paper with 
good results. True it does stick to the PCB, but you need to let it 
soak in water and peel the paper off layer by layer sometimes. I just 
made a board yesterday...Brother 2040 laser, Staples paper & an iron. I 
can post a photo...for those of you who MAY want to give it a shot. 
Izzo

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mycroft2152" <mycroft2152y@...> 
wrote:

>
> I've a combination of Samsung ML-2010 laser printer / Xerox 1910 
> laimnator and Sears catalog paper that has been working well for 
> Toner transfer, that is until I refilled the toner with a generic 
> toner. A new cartidge costs about $80, refills $6, a new printer $60 
> after rebates.  The results were pretty spotty.
> 
> I tried (again) a number of papers, including the Staples basic photo 
> mentioned on the list. Unfortunately, the Staples Basic Photo paper 
> actually laminated itself to the pcb and was worthless.
> 
> SNIP <

I've seen the similar problem with other photo papers too. Since i 
used a laminator set at a high heat setting, I think the coating on 
the photo paper fused to the copper. The trick is to get the 
temp/pressure to the point where the toner only will stick.

One thing that is very obvious is that small differences will create 
major problems. What works for one person, may not work for someone 
else. The Staples paper is worth a try.

Myc

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "izzo47" <izzo47@...> wrote:
>
> I used a regular household iron with the Staples Basic Photo paper 
with 
> good results. True it does stick to the PCB, but you need to let it 
> soak in water and peel the paper off layer by layer sometimes. I 
just 
> made a board yesterday...Brother 2040 laser, Staples paper & an 
iron. I 
> can post a photo...for those of you who MAY want to give it a shot. 
> Izzo
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mycroft2152" <mycroft2152y@> 
> wrote:
> >
> > I've a combination of Samsung ML-2010 laser printer / Xerox 1910 
> > laimnator and Sears catalog paper that has been working well for 
> > Toner transfer, that is until I refilled the toner with a generic 
> > toner. A new cartidge costs about $80, refills $6, a new printer 
$60 
> > after rebates.  The results were pretty spotty.
> > 
> > I tried (again) a number of papers, including the Staples basic 
photo 
> > mentioned on the list. Unfortunately, the Staples Basic Photo 
paper 

> > actually laminated itself to the pcb and was worthless.
> > 
> > SNIP <
>

> One thing that is very obvious is that small differences will create
> major problems. What works for one person, may not work for someone
> else. The Staples paper is worth a try.
>

Tried some of theirs a while ago but problem is our staples(uk) is not
selling (IMHO) the same paper as staples(USA)

For now I'm having good success with a uniball pen (px203 white) in my
HP plotter, had better resolution on the calcomp, but it wont lift the
heavy pen.