Homebrew_PCBs

http://www.inksupply.com/arcink_mispro.cfm

after a quick read around i realise the ink i have
maybe no good or not good enought

i notice is not cheep this one
also where in the uk ??? im in scotland ...
anyone some hints ??

> after a quick read around i realise the ink i have
> maybe no good or not good enought

Is the problem with your inks the PRICE? Or that they dont work on
copper?

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "docstein99" <docstein99@...>
wrote:

>
> > after a quick read around i realise the ink i have
> > maybe no good or not good enought
>
> Is the problem with your inks the PRICE? Or that they dont work on
> copper?
>

ye man maybe both

i am waiting for it to dry overnight
{second attempt with claria inks{default ones}}

then brown it off
still dont hold out much hope
if it doesnt work ill order some mis-pro for now...
the cost is'nt an issue just finding it in the uk

> ye man maybe both
>
> i am waiting for it to dry overnight
> {second attempt with claria inks{default ones}}

According to what I read - even with the mis-pro inks, you must wrestle
with the pcb being heated entirely to the exact temprature in order to
seal the ink.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "docstein99" <docstein99@...>
wrote:

>
> > ye man maybe both
> >
> > i am waiting for it to dry overnight
> > {second attempt with claria inks{default ones}}
>
> According to what I read - even with the mis-pro inks, you must

wrestle

> with the pcb being heated entirely to the exact temprature in order

to

> seal the ink.
>

i think this is the fusing tempreture???
i would ask the maker of the ink???? dont know who has ???

i agree the hold and hope method is a little flaw i see too

i did plan to use an aneling oven next
once i get the inks i have a small unit for castings
maybe try to reuse
some sort of old thermo controlled sandwitch toaster or something ...

i think this ink works when heated in a similar fashion to toner
i think its a plstic ploimer ink so will do the same thing only in
toner
copiers this gets fused after fixed up
this fusing stage is around 200-300deg or more
my old HP had a label beware 350degrees so ????
all to find out for us inkys

I see what your talking about now. A new R220 or R260 (AS WITH ALL)
epson printers new, come with SAMPLE cartridges that allow only a few
pages to print.

So a new printer with new cartridges comes out to around $200, which is
kinda pricey.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "vsmvdd" <vsmvdd@...> wrote:

> i am waiting for it to dry overnight
> {second attempt with claria inks{default ones}}
>
> then brown it off
> still dont hold out much hope
> if it doesnt work ill order some mis-pro for now...
> the cost is'nt an issue just finding it in the uk

Epson's Claria inks are dye inks, not pigmented inks. That is most
likely the problem.

Steve Greenfield

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "vsmvdd" <vsmvdd@...> wrote:

>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "docstein99" <docstein99@>
> wrote:

> > > i am waiting for it to dry overnight
> > > {second attempt with claria inks{default ones}}
> >
> > According to what I read - even with the mis-pro inks, you must
> wrestle
> > with the pcb being heated entirely to the exact temprature in order
> to
> > seal the ink.
> >
>
> i think this is the fusing tempreture???
> i would ask the maker of the ink???? dont know who has ???

...snip...

> i think this ink works when heated in a similar fashion to toner
> i think its a plstic ploimer ink so will do the same thing only in
> toner
> copiers this gets fused after fixed up
> this fusing stage is around 200-300deg or more
> my old HP had a label beware 350degrees so ????
> all to find out for us inkys

I think you are confusing laser and inkjet. This thread is about
inkjet direct printing. Since it is not meant to be used this way, the
maker of the ink will be no help with heating of the ink.

Steve Greenfield

> > the cost is'nt an issue just finding it in the uk

Thats why I gave up.

Sticking with my trusty plotter, an elastic band and a pen for now.

> Epson's Claria inks are dye inks, not pigmented inks. That is most
> likely the problem.

Epson makes large wide-format printers used for printing signs on
canvas or plastic vynil for trucks, cars and airplanes. There is a
heating element built into the output rail to warm-up the ink printed
on the material, to seal it. I wonder if using that ink would make a
difference?

> Sticking with my trusty plotter, an elastic band and a pen for now.

What pens are you using that makes trusty results?

>
> Epson makes large wide-format printers used for printing signs on
> canvas or plastic vynil for trucks, cars and airplanes. There is a
> heating element built into the output rail to warm-up the ink printed
> on the material, to seal it. I wonder if using that ink would make a
> difference?

I wonder if using that printer is the answer...........

> I wonder if using that printer is the answer...........

Lol, if your pcb's need to be three feet wide and 6 feet long? Maybe.
Otherwise, I feel they probably use the same head technology as they do
in their desktop printers. It would just be a matter of getting sample
ink for testing in a desktop printer - to buy the cartridge for a 1-
time test would be too costly.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "docstein99" <docstein99@...> wrote:

>
> I see what your talking about now. A new R220 or R260 (AS WITH ALL)
> epson printers new, come with SAMPLE cartridges that allow only a few
> pages to print.

It isn't just that, also keep in mind that an initial ink charge must
purge the heads of all air and whatever fluid they put in it when
manufactured. So not only fill the print heads, but pull enough ink
through to hopefully clear all air or storage fluid out.

This related to why, if you are changing one color that is out, you
might as well change any others that are nearly out at the same time.
Because it can't purge one color, it purges them all.

Steve Greenfield

On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 19:33:35 +0100, Steve <alienrelics@...> wrote:

> So not only fill the print heads, but pull enough ink
> through to hopefully clear all air or storage fluid out.

Do You know what the storage fluid is?
When i get back to inkjet i may want to purchase several printers and
store them.

I suspect it would be something like glycerine or glycol?

ST