Homebrew_PCBs

I bought an Epson C84 to convert for direct printing. It was
adverstised as having a clogged print head. I have read several
articles on how to unclog the print head. So far I have been
unsuccessful, but it is still early in my process.

The thought occured to me, however, that maybe the electronics driving
the print head are bad. How can I determine if the print head is in
fact clogged or if it is something else. Are there any voltages going
to the print head that I can check during the print cycle?

How about one of those Ultra Sonic cleaners...... maybe that would loosen it
up ?

Thomas

On Thu, 22 Feb 2007 00:42:21 +0100, Paul Sturpe <sturpe@...>
wrote:

> I bought an Epson C84 to convert for direct printing. It was
> adverstised as having a clogged print head. I have read several
> articles on how to unclog the print head. So far I have been
> unsuccessful, but it is still early in my process.
> The thought occured to me, however, that maybe the electronics driving
> the print head are bad. How can I determine if the print head is in
> fact clogged or if it is something else. Are there any voltages going
> to the print head that I can check during the print cycle?

Have you cleaned the parking pad and vacuum hose. If the hose is blocked,
it looks just like a blocked head. The hose is usually blocked.

ST

> On Thu, 22 Feb 2007 00:42:21 +0100, Paul Sturpe <sturpe@...>
> wrote:
>
> > I bought an Epson C84 to convert for direct printing. It was
> > adverstised as having a clogged print head. I have read several
> > articles on how to unclog the print head. So far I have been
> > unsuccessful, but it is still early in my process.
> > The thought occured to me, however, that maybe the electronics

driving

> > the print head are bad. How can I determine if the print head is

in

> > fact clogged or if it is something else. Are there any voltages

going

> > to the print head that I can check during the print cycle?
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan"

<stefan_trethan@...> wrote:

> Have you cleaned the parking pad and vacuum hose. If the hose is

blocked,

> it looks just like a blocked head. The hose is usually blocked.
>
> ST
>

Stefan,

I finally got started to dis-assemble the C84. This gives me a
better look at the mechanism. I have cleaned the parking pad, but I
don't see the vacuum hose you talk about. Can you give me directions
of where to look for the vacuum hose?

Thanks,
Paul

On Thu, 08 Mar 2007 13:46:52 +0100, Paul Sturpe <sturpe@...>
wrote:

> Stefan,
> I finally got started to dis-assemble the C84. This gives me a
> better look at the mechanism. I have cleaned the parking pad, but I
> don't see the vacuum hose you talk about. Can you give me directions
> of where to look for the vacuum hose?
> Thanks,
> Paul

It sucks through the black pad right under the head, so it is attached at
the underside of that plastic part. I think there is even a way to lift
that part without removing any screws, but i'm not certain. There is a
single screw holding the whole parking station on the inside of the
printer, the outside edge is held with a spring catch.

ST

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan"
<stefan_trethan@...> wrote:

>
> On Thu, 08 Mar 2007 13:46:52 +0100, Paul Sturpe <sturpe@...>
> wrote:
>
> > Stefan,
> > I finally got started to dis-assemble the C84. This gives me a
> > better look at the mechanism. I have cleaned the parking pad,

but I

> > don't see the vacuum hose you talk about. Can you give me

directions

> > of where to look for the vacuum hose?
> > Thanks,
> > Paul
>
>
> It sucks through the black pad right under the head, so it is

attached at

> the underside of that plastic part. I think there is even a way to

lift

> that part without removing any screws, but i'm not certain. There

is a

> single screw holding the whole parking station on the inside of

the

> printer, the outside edge is held with a spring catch.
>
> ST
>

Do you mean under the pad that is beneath the black ink cartridge
when the head is parked?
Pau

Hello, I will attempt apology for my English that you understand
1 checks than the system of cleanliness of the printer this without
obstruction of dry ink, from the pad to the hose of final drainage.
2 if injectors are covered you will have to dismount the truck, getting
the platinum ore on a sponge soaked up in a solution of 10 parts of
distilled water 3 parts of alcohol isopropílico and 1 part of ammonia.
Place a noodles for injector and a hypodermic syringe and he proceeds
to suctioning air toward to the hypodermic syringe, NEVER TOWARD THE
CABEZAL..me he would be desirable that I had gotten along
well ........Ruda

On Thu, 08 Mar 2007 18:24:00 +0100, Paul Sturpe <sturpe@...>
wrote:

> Do you mean under the pad that is beneath the black ink cartridge
> when the head is parked?
> Pau

The pad is beneath all the heads. It has a rubber lip around it. The pad
looks spongy (but is hard).
You can not miss the vacuum hose, just take the whole parking station out
and disconnect the hose. Then wash the parking station in the sink, and
flush through the vacuum hose with a syringe (you may have to turn the
transport roller a little because the vacuum pump closes the hose in most
positions).

ST

"DO NOT SUCTION AIR"! This is extremely bad for the print nozzles. This appears to be one of the
problems with the print head after changing the carts. The print head appears clogged but is not.
Do a google search you should find lots of people complaining about this.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan"
<stefan_trethan@...> wrote:

>
> On Thu, 08 Mar 2007 18:24:00 +0100, Paul Sturpe <sturpe@...>
> wrote:
>
> > Do you mean under the pad that is beneath the black ink cartridge
> > when the head is parked?
> > Paul
>
> The pad is beneath all the heads. It has a rubber lip around it.

The pad

> looks spongy (but is hard).
> You can not miss the vacuum hose, just take the whole parking

station out

> and disconnect the hose. Then wash the parking station in the sink,

and

> flush through the vacuum hose with a syringe (you may have to turn

the

> transport roller a little because the vacuum pump closes the hose

in most

> positions).
>
> ST
>

I am making progress with this stubborn printer! I have the vacuum
tube open now and the printer is printing. I still have a clogged
nozzle or two. By the way, the service manual calls the vacuum tube
the "ink tube". The vacuum side of the tube was plugged as well as
the "porous pad" end of the tube.

Can I remove and clean the porous pad or should it be replaced?

Thanks,

Paul

On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 13:41:51 +0100, Paul Sturpe <sturpe@...>
wrote:

>
> Can I remove and clean the porous pad or should it be replaced?
> Thanks,
> Paul

I replaced it with a small container to collect the wasted ink.
You could also cut out the bad areas and replace them with material from
further away, which was clean in my printer. I expect it would be easy to
find suitable replacement material, maybe from disposeable nappies or
something from the women's department...
Heck you could probably just keep the upper layer of the pad and fill the
bottom with cat litter or sawdust, as long as you don't move the printer
much.

ST

I expect it would be easy to
find suitable replacement material, maybe from disposeable nappies or
something from the women's department...

Something from the women's department? What exactly are you thinking about? Hmmmm? are printers
female or male? I always thought of my printers as male but I may be wrong. I do think they would
look very funny if you put a bra or panties on it. Please post the pics if you do this.

On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 17:25:28 +0100, William Nelson
<wnnelson@...> wrote:

>
> I expect it would be easy to
> find suitable replacement material, maybe from disposeable nappies or
> something from the women's department...

> Something from the women's department? What exactly are you thinking
> about? Hmmmm? are printers
> female or male? I always thought of my printers as male but I may be
> wrong. I do think they would
> look very funny if you put a bra or panties on it. Please post the pics
> if you do this.

I'm certain it would look just hilarious.

Obviously i was thinking about products needed every month.

ST

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Sturpe" <sturpe@...> wrote:

>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan"
> <stefan_trethan@> wrote:

...

> > The pad is beneath all the heads. It has a rubber lip around it.
> The pad
> > looks spongy (but is hard).

...

> I am making progress with this stubborn printer! I have the vacuum
> tube open now and the printer is printing. I still have a clogged
> nozzle or two. By the way, the service manual calls the vacuum tube
> the "ink tube". The vacuum side of the tube was plugged as well as
> the "porous pad" end of the tube.
>
> Can I remove and clean the porous pad or should it be replaced?

I'm not sure which porous pad you mean. If you mean the small hard
foam pad under the head, in the park station, just clean it. If you
mean the waste ink pad in the bottom of the printer, you can clean it
but it isn't too expensive to replace http://www.compassmicro.com has
them, or wash out. Drying takes a while, do -not- twist it to wring it
out. Press between old towels or lots of paper towels, then in an oven
at low heat (like 150 to 180F).

Or run the waste ink hose out to an external bottle. You still need
the waste ink pad in the printer, as it may also squirt ink into it
from other locations, depending on the printer.

Steve Greenfield

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Sturpe" <sturpe@...>
wrote:

>
> I bought an Epson C84 to convert for direct printing. It was
> adverstised as having a clogged print head. I have read several
> articles on how to unclog the print head. So far I have been
> unsuccessful, but it is still early in my process.
>
> The thought occured to me, however, that maybe the electronics

driving

> the print head are bad. How can I determine if the print head is

in

> fact clogged or if it is something else. Are there any voltages

going

> to the print head that I can check during the print cycle?
>

10 May, 2007,

I had to put this project on the back burner for a while but now I am
back to it.

In stefen's article he refers to the "optical paper sensor" and
states this is "glued to the side of the paper slot...." and shows
this picture.


http://techref.massmind.org/images/pcb/etch/directinkjetresist/c84_pap
er_sensor.JPG

I cannot seem to locate the optical paper sensor. Furthermore, is
the picture above where the sensor is located originally, or do I
need to move it there from some other location?

In any event, I cannot seem to locate the sensor anywhere and it
definitely is not glued in the spot shown in the above jpg file.

Any help would be appreciated.

Paul

> I cannot seem to locate the optical paper sensor. Furthermore, is
> the picture above where the sensor is located originally, or do I
> need to move it there from some other location?

I am preparing to convert a C84 right now, which would be my third
try at this. I have already done a lexmark and an epson 220, which I
believe is simular construction to the c84.

I cant tell you for certain on the C84, but on the 220 the paper
sensor was hidden behind where the print-head camps out normally.
There is some type of lever mechanism that flips over when paper is
fed into the machine. It was hidden on my epson as well and took me
quite some time to find it. Only after I managed to dismantle
practically the entire top-rail, it showed itself. Was tucked in and
cliped on to the grey sheet metal with a small black plastic
housing. By that time the frame was giving me hell sticking itself
together making it really difficult to plan out a lifting strategy.

BTW- There is also another sensor at the end of the paper feeding
roller in the back, which must stay there in order for the machine to
boot up correctly, not to confuse with the paper feed sensor.

Also, at times I got a little lost and thought I was taking off too
much stuff, so I kept plugging it in to make sure it would boot up
ok. If I moved something or took something off I wasnt certain of, I
plug it in to make sure it boots up; then if not - I knew I had to
put that piece back on in order for the machine to work. I had to
abandon the 220 because the project reached a point where the printer
no longer booted up and would not print, just with a blinking red
light.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "docstein99" <docstein99@...> wrote:

>

I read somewhere that using a thin, flexible clad board,
would not require to modify the printer.
wonder if using the Single Sided .014 (.036mm) Thick,
1 oz Copper being sold at www.digikey.com ,
manufactured by Injectorall) ( catalog page 1945 )
as follows :

Dimensions Digi-Key Price Injectorall
Inch (cm) Part No. Each Part No.
3 x 4.5 (7.62 x 11.43) PC94-ND 2.33 PC94
4 x 6 (10.16 x 15.24) PC95-ND 4.35 PC95
6 x 6 (15.24 x 15.24) PC95-S-ND 5.18 PC95-S
6 x 9 (15.24 x 22.86) PC96-ND 7.78 PC96
12 x 18 (30.48 x 45.72) PC97-ND 23.37 PC97

would require the printer mechanical modification.
I understand most printers have a way to print
thick envelopes, which should be ok for the thickness
of the boards above [.014 (.036mm)] I THINK .
juan

> I read somewhere that using a thin, flexible clad board,
> would not require to modify the printer.
> wonder if using the Single Sided .014 (.036mm) Thick,
> 1 oz Copper being sold at www.digikey.com ,
> manufactured by Injectorall) ( catalog page 1945 )
> as follows :

That does work. I have 1/32" thick copper board and have printed on
it, with the only modification was to carve-out the back so it could
load-flat the entire way.

goldnime-elec.com has "scissor-cut" single sided PCBs, really thin,
probably made for internal parts of multi level boards dor $.99 for
5x12 pieces. They are kind of thin for use by themselves, but epoxy
them to gether and you have multi level with no registration errors.
Richard

At 08:24 07/05/13, Digest Number 2182 wrote:

> Posted by: "rmustakos" rmustakos@... rmustakos
> Date: Sat May 12, 2007 4:48 pm ((PDT))
>
>goldnime-elec.com has "scissor-cut" single sided PCBs [snip]

http://goldnime-elec.com "Could not be found"

Please check links that you post are working: then,
if you can't spell or can't type, just copy & paste.

Rather than a link to a homepage which must be searched,
it also helps if you give a direct link to the product group
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/products.asp?dept=1034
or the specific product
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G15697
SALE! 5.5" x 6" Scissor Cut SS Copper Clad [$0.69]
Regularly $0.99 each
or
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G15698
SALE! 5.5" x 12" Scissor Cut SS Copper Clad [$0.99]
Regularly $1.75 each
unless that contains a session ID which would make it invalid later.


Regards, LenW
--
Content of a follow-up post should exceed quoted content. (rfc1855)

> >goldnime-elec.com has "scissor-cut" single sided PCBs [snip]
>
> http://goldnime-elec.com "Could not be found"
>
> Please check links that you post are working: then,
> if you can't spell or can't type, just copy & paste.
>

Boy must you have got out the wrong side of bed, give the guy a break
at least he's sharing something he found

Should be
http://goldmine-elec.com
Norm

Lez wrote:

>> >goldnime-elec.com has "scissor-cut" single sided PCBs [snip]
>>
>> http://goldnime-elec.com "Could not be found"
>>
>> Please check links that you post are working: then,
>> if you can't spell or can't type, just copy & paste.
>>
>>
>
> Boy must you have got out the wrong side of bed, give the guy a break
> at least he's sharing something he found
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

At 16:02 13.05.2007, you wrote:

> > >goldnime-elec.com has "scissor-cut" single sided PCBs [snip]
> >
> > <http://goldnime-elec.com>http://goldnime-elec.com "Could not be found"
> >

goldMINE not goldnime, please

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

the 2 types of board goldmine is offering can be find on:
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G15698
or
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G15697


question: will this .016" thick board feed normally on an Epson
printer, without mechanical modification.????

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "docstein99" <docstein99@...>
wrote:

>
> > I cannot seem to locate the optical paper sensor. Furthermore,

is

> > the picture above where the sensor is located originally, or do I
> > need to move it there from some other location?
>
> I am preparing to convert a C84 right now, which would be my third
> try at this. I have already done a lexmark and an epson 220, which

I

> believe is simular construction to the c84.
>
> I cant tell you for certain on the C84, but on the 220 the paper
> sensor was hidden behind where the print-head camps out normally.
> There is some type of lever mechanism that flips over when paper is
> fed into the machine. It was hidden on my epson as well and took

me

> quite some time to find it. Only after I managed to dismantle
> practically the entire top-rail, it showed itself. Was tucked in

and

> cliped on to the grey sheet metal with a small black plastic
> housing. By that time the frame was giving me hell sticking itself
> together making it really difficult to plan out a lifting strategy.
>
> BTW- There is also another sensor at the end of the paper feeding
> roller in the back, which must stay there in order for the machine

to

> boot up correctly, not to confuse with the paper feed sensor.
>
> Also, at times I got a little lost and thought I was taking off too
> much stuff, so I kept plugging it in to make sure it would boot up
> ok. If I moved something or took something off I wasnt certain of,

I

> plug it in to make sure it boots up; then if not - I knew I had to
> put that piece back on in order for the machine to work. I had to
> abandon the 220 because the project reached a point where the

printer

> no longer booted up and would not print, just with a blinking red
> light.

I'm still looking for the paper sensor. I have the printer stripped
down to its "bare essentials" and I still don't see the paper
sensor. I am assuming the paper sensor is an electrical switch of
some sort and therefore has to have wires coming from it. If this is
correct, I have not removed anything that has wires and I don't see
anything on the remaining structure that has wires that I cannot
account for.

Can the paper sensor be purely mechanical in nature?

If I don't find the sensor, I guess my next step is to hook up the
printer and see if it still works.

Thanks,

Paul

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "juanabba" <jjose@...> wrote:

>
> question: will this .016" thick board feed normally on an Epson
> printer, without mechanical modification.????
>

All,
Sorry about my spelling. I'm glad to see you were on top of things
and figured out what I meant. To those of you who did, I appreciate
that you put the corrected links up.

juanabba
I tried feeding the 12" trough my rx580, as though it were a sheet of
paper. It did not start the feed without pressing. With a little
force, it would start feeding. It would not make it all the way
around the corner from the paper bin, a 60 to 75 degree angle, with
out more force than I was willing to apply. It did no damage.
I cut 3" by X" piece(s) and taped them to the middle of paper, over
where I had printed the board image. They ran through and printed
fine, other than lousy surface prep.
I did this five or six times, and it fed reliably.
I tried 4 boards on the same paper, 1 in each quarter, and it would
not feed reliably. IIRC, it got caught between the 1st and 2nd rows
of pcbs.
I have not figured out the longest length that can go through, but
width doesn't seem to be the problem. I think the trick is that
there has to be enough paper in front of the board for the printer to
get a good hold of before it hits the board.
Richard

This reminds me........ my keyboard has a few keys with worn-off
letters.... sure messes up the spelling now and than.......

Best to ya'
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee Wi, USA

On May 13, 2007, at 11:22 AM, Cristian wrote:

> At 16:02 13.05.2007, you wrote:
>
>>>> goldnime-elec.com has "scissor-cut" single sided PCBs [snip]
>>>
>>> <http://goldnime-elec.com>http://goldnime-elec.com "Could not be
>>> found"
>>>
>
> goldMINE not goldnime, please

On Mon, 14 May 2007 21:06:04 +0200, Mike Bauers <mwbauers55@...>
wrote:

> This reminds me........ my keyboard has a few keys with worn-off
> letters.... sure messes up the spelling now and than.......
> Best to ya'
> Mike Bauers
> Milwaukee Wi, USA

i have finally found a way to fix that semi-permanently.
Write the correct letter on each key with permanent marker pen. This alone
will not last, but here comes the trick:
Cut squares of clear tape a little smaller than the key surface and stick
them over the keys. This seems easier if you remove the keys (better
remember how to put them back ;-) )

I admit it is a bit tedious, so choose a good time to do it. I watched a
documentary about the building of the london sewer system while
re-lettering mine.

May seem silly at first, but it works really well. Only on two or three
keys the edge of the tape is peeling, i coud re-do them but it's still
perfectly good to read. This has held up better than any new keyboard so
far and better than anything else i tried (a coat of clear laquer is
totally useless). It's a bit of work, but sure beats buying a new keyboard
every few months. This particular keyboard is badly abused, often hitting
keys with a fingernail or even a tool, that's why it wears so fast. It's
also laptop size and often used one-handed and for intermittent inputs,
that's why i really need the letters for reference even if i do not need
them for continous typing.

ST

On Mon, 14 May 2007 13:33:04 +0200, Paul Sturpe <sturpe@...>
wrote:

>
> Can the paper sensor be purely mechanical in nature?

It's usually a little mechanical pivoting plastic lever/flag working a
fork type photointerruptor.
I have taken apart some old dot matrix printers which used direct
reflective photo sensors on the paper, but usually it has a mechanical
lever.

ST

A slick solution... Thanks!

Best to ya'
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee Wi, USA

On May 14, 2007, at 3:52 PM, Stefan Trethan wrote:

> On Mon, 14 May 2007 21:06:04 +0200, Mike Bauers <mwbauers55@...>
> wrote:
>
>> This reminds me........ my keyboard has a few keys with worn-off
>> letters.... sure messes up the spelling now and than.......
>> Best to ya'
>> Mike Bauers
>> Milwaukee Wi, USA
>
>
> i have finally found a way to fix that semi-permanently.
> Write the correct letter on each key with permanent marker pen.
> This alone
> will not last, but here comes the trick:
> Cut squares of clear tape a little smaller than the key
> surface ...........

Stefan Trethan wrote:

> On Mon, 14 May 2007 21:06:04 +0200, Mike Bauers <mwbauers55@...>
> wrote:
>
>> This reminds me........ my keyboard has a few keys with worn-off
>> letters.... sure messes up the spelling now and than.......
>> Best to ya'
>> Mike Bauers
>> Milwaukee Wi, USA
>
>
> i have finally found a way to fix that semi-permanently.
> Write the correct letter on each key with permanent marker pen. This alone
> will not last, but here comes the trick:
> Cut squares of clear tape a little smaller than the key surface and stick
> them over the keys. This seems easier if you remove the keys (better
> remember how to put them back ;-) )
>
> I admit it is a bit tedious, so choose a good time to do it. I watched a
> documentary about the building of the london sewer system while
> re-lettering mine.
>
> May seem silly at first, but it works really well. Only on two or three
> keys the edge of the tape is peeling, i coud re-do them but it's still
> perfectly good to read. This has held up better than any new keyboard so
> far and better than anything else i tried (a coat of clear laquer is
> totally useless). It's a bit of work, but sure beats buying a new keyboard
> every few months. This particular keyboard is badly abused, often hitting
> keys with a fingernail or even a tool, that's why it wears so fast. It's
> also laptop size and often used one-handed and for intermittent inputs,
> that's why i really need the letters for reference even if i do not need
> them for continous typing.

If you have a Brother P-Touch labeller, you can use tape that has black
lettering on a clear background. The tape gets laminated with an over-layer
of clear, so the letters won't rub off. My keyboard has lettering made of
molded-in black plastic on white keys, so they'll never wear off anyway.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "docstein99" <docstein99@...>
wrote:

>
> > I cannot seem to locate the optical paper sensor. Furthermore,

is

> > the picture above where the sensor is located originally, or do I
> > need to move it there from some other location?
>
> I am preparing to convert a C84 right now, which would be my third
> try at this. I have already done a lexmark and an epson 220, which

I

> believe is simular construction to the c84.
>
> I cant tell you for certain on the C84, but on the 220 the paper
> sensor was hidden behind where the print-head camps out normally.
> There is some type of lever mechanism that flips over when paper is
> fed into the machine. It was hidden on my epson as well and took

me

> quite some time to find it. Only after I managed to dismantle
> practically the entire top-rail, it showed itself. Was tucked in

and

> cliped on to the grey sheet metal with a small black plastic
> housing. By that time the frame was giving me hell sticking itself
> together making it really difficult to plan out a lifting strategy.
>
> BTW- There is also another sensor at the end of the paper feeding
> roller in the back, which must stay there in order for the machine

to

> boot up correctly, not to confuse with the paper feed sensor.
>
> Also, at times I got a little lost and thought I was taking off too
> much stuff, so I kept plugging it in to make sure it would boot up
> ok. If I moved something or took something off I wasnt certain of,

I

> plug it in to make sure it boots up; then if not - I knew I had to
> put that piece back on in order for the machine to work. I had to
> abandon the 220 because the project reached a point where the

printer

> no longer booted up and would not print, just with a blinking red
> light.

Thanks,

I finally found the sensor, hidden as you suggested. Now I am ready
to start working on the carrier. I went again to the web site,
http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcb/etch/c84-st.htm to try to
understand how the carrier is built.

I could use a little more detail on how the carrier is built. A few
more pictures would be great if anyone has them.

Thanks again,

Paul

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